LLANIDAN,(Anglesea.)

Caernarvon

Llanedwen

Menai Bridge

Plas Newydd

Llanidan is a little village, near the shores of the Menai, not far from the spot where the Romans landed, headed by Suetonius Paulinus, who murdered the Britons by thousands. It is called, by Rowlands, Maes Mawr Gad (the Great Army’s Field). It lies three hundred yards from the Menai, and consists of about twenty acres. The Romans entered the water about two hundred yards south of Llanfair-is-caer church, where the shore is flat, the water shallow, and only three quarters of a mile wide. At low water, and at neap tide, most of the bed is dry.

After the death of Nero, in the year 67, the natives, after six years of thraldom, threw off the Roman yoke, the Druids returned and assumed their authority and property, which they held till the year 76; when Agricola crossed the Menai, nearly a mile farther north, landed at a field yet called Pont or Pant-yr-Yscraffiau (Bridge of Boats), where the same tragedy was re-acted in this and the two adjoining fields.

The locality abounds with an interesting variety of druidical remains. Lord Boston has a residence and a park here: the house is a clumsy building, but the situation is most pleasant.

Aberystwyth

Devil’s Bridge

London

193

Machynlleth

Newtown

Plinlimmon

Llanidloes (the Church of St. Idloes) is pleasantly situated near the Severn. The population of the whole parish is 4261, including 2562 inhabitants of the town, who are principally employed in spinning and weaving of flannels, the manufacture of which has been established in this town from a very early period, and has continued materially to increase; the softest and most durable texture is made here. The principal inn is the New Inn, an excellent and well conducted establishment, where post-chaises and other vehicles may be had; the Queen’s Head, Red Lion, and the Crown, are also respectable houses, where travellers may be well accommodated. By the late Reform Act, this town was made one of the contributory boroughs of the county.

The church was originally founded towards the close of the fifth or at the beginning of the sixth century. Of the original building the towers only remain. The present structure was built about 200 years ago. In 1816, the chancel and south wall were rebuilt; at the same time the church was renewed; and a set of new bells was hung in the tower in 1824. As is usual in all the Welsh towns, there are places of worship for various dissenting congregations. The market-day is on Saturday.

A few years ago, a handsome stone bridge of three arches was erected over the Severn, at a considerable expense; and a new and excellent line of road was opened from hence to Rhaiadr, which makes a direct and regular communication between North and South Wales. Lord Mostyn is lord of the manor; a court leet is held once a year, at Michaelmas, when officers are appointed, in whom the government of the place is vested. In the vicinity of the town are several handsome residences, the property of opulent individuals.

Within eight miles of Llanidloes, in the parish of Llanbrynmair, are two fine waterfalls, near to each other, of which the principal, called Ffrwd Vawr, is very grand, especially after heavy rains; the water having a perpendicular descent of more than one hundred and thirty feet.

Within the limits of Llanidloes parish is partly included the lofty mountain of Plinlimmon, (or, more properly, Plumlumon, the five-peaked mountain) which is the highest in the several chains, of which it forms the centre: and from this place the ascent to its summit is usually made, being only seven miles distant from the town, whence guides from the principal inns are provided. From the highest point is obtained a fine prospect of vast extent, comprehending on the south, the hills of Cardiganshire and Radnorshire; on the west, Cardigan bay and St. George’s channel; on the north, Cader Idris and part of the Snowdon range of mountains, separating the counties of Caernarvon and Merioneth; on the north-east, the Breiddyn hills, in Montgomeryshire; and on the east, part of the counties of Hereford and Salop. This mountain derives a considerable degree of interest from its giving rise to the rivers Severn, Wye, Rheidiol, and Llyvn-nant; of which the former is secondary only to the Thames in commercial importance; whilst the Wye and the Rheidiol surpass all other rivers in Britain for the picturesque beauty of their scenery.

The Severn, here called by its ancient British name of Havren, rises on the northern side of the mountain, in a stony chalybeate spring, and is speedily joined and increased by other springs rising near to its source, and by several mountain torrents, before it reaches Llanidloes.

The Wye rises from two powerful springs on the south-eastern side of the mountain, and after a long circuitous course, falls into the Severn near Chepstow.

The Rheidiol has its source in a pool called Llyn Llygad Rheidiol, and falls into the sea at Aberystwyth.

The Llyvn-nant issues from a pool called Glâs Llyn.

About twenty years ago, Llyn Llygad was entirely without fish. Two gentlemen, one of whom was the late Captain Jones, R.N., of Machynlleth, were grousing on Plinlimmon, when the conversation turned on the peculiarity of this lake being entirely destitute of the finny tribe, and the possibility of stocking it from a neighbouring rivulet. A staff net was procured, and some dozens of small trout caught in the river Rheidiol were thrown into the lake, which at that time swarmed with millions of horse leeches. Some of the trout, when placed in the pool, lay upon their sides faint and exhausted: and strange as it may appear, the rapacious leechesattached themselves to the sick fish, and actually devoured them. Others of the trout were vigorous; these and their progeny have enforced thelex talioniswith a vengeance; and while the fish abound, not a leech is now to be seen.

At Melin Velindre, on the route to Plinlimmon, is a romantic cataract, and near a sheep farm, called Blaen Havren, the Severn rolls its waters over a lofty ledge of slate rocks, in which gullies have been found of picturesque shapes.

About two miles from the town, on the south-east, is a spacious pool, called Llyn-ebyr, extending over a surface of nearly one hundred acres; it abounds with pike, eels, and perch, and affords excellent fishing; it is frequented by wild fowl; and during the summer season it is the resort of parties of pleasure, for whose accommodation boats belonging to gentlemen in the vicinity are kept on the pool.

Distance from Llanidloes.

Miles.

The Clywedog

Bodaioch, on the Tavannon

Glan Trevnant

Llandinam

6½

Llangurig

Denbigh

Ruthin

Llanrhaiadr (the Village of the Cataract), on the road between Ruthin and Denbigh, is situated on a small eminence in the fertile vale of Clwyd. It derives its name from a spring at a short distance, called Ffynnon Ddyfrog, where once was a bath and chapel, dedicated to St. Ddyfrog.

The church is a very interesting and handsome structure. On the east window is a painting of the genealogy of Christ from Jesse, executed about 1533. In the church-yard is a curious inscription to John ap Robert, whose pedigree is traced up to Cadell, king of Powys.

The scenery, both to Denbigh and Ruthin, is all the way extremely beautiful.

Bala

Llanfyllyn

Llangynog

Oswestry

This is a small village situated at the extremity of the county, in a deep hollow, surrounded by mountains.

Dr. William Morgan, the first translator of the Bible into Welsh, was vicar of this place. He was promoted to the bishopric of Llandaff, and in 1601 to that of St. Asaph, where he died in 1604. This valley is called Mochnant, (the Vale of the Rapid Brook) at the extremity of which, distant from the village about four miles and a half, is

(The Spout of the Cataract) reputed to be the largest waterfall in Wales. The little river Rhaiadr here falls down an almost perpendicular black crag, of 240 feet in height. For about two-thirds of this space, the water slides down the flat face of a naked rock; it rages thence through a natural arch, and, passing between two prominent sides, falls into a basin. It then passes though a well-wooded dell, forming a boundary line which separates the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, and after assisting to form some pretty scenes, falls into the Tanat. Near to the waterfall is a neat inn, built in the Gothic style, by Sir W. W. Wynn, where the stranger may meet with tolerable accommodation.

Abergele

Bettws-y-Coed

Cerniogau

Capel Curig

Conway

Denbigh

Llanrhychwyn

2½

London

218

Maen-Twrog

This town is pleasantly situated on the western bank of the river Conway, which here forms the boundary between the counties of Denbigh and Caernarvon, in the spacious and beautiful vale of Llanrwst, environed by majestic and well-wooded hills, the land at the foot of which is plentifully watered and remarkably fertile. The town consists principally of small houses and shops, with a population of 3905 inhabitants. Ithas a market on Tuesday, and a branch of the North and South Wales bank. The Eagles is the principal inn; but a good house of public entertainment is sadly wanted here.

The bridge over the Conway, leading to Gwydir, is an elegant structure, built about the year 1636, from a plan by the celebrated Inigo Jones, at an expense of £1000, defrayed conjointly by the two counties which it connects. It is an extraordinary fact that a vibration of the bridge may be caused by any person standing above the middle arch and forcing himself rather smartly against the parapet.—Excellent roads have lately been made, communicating with the London, Holyhead, and Chester roads, and also with Denbigh and St. Asaph, the improved state of which has induced a considerable increase of visitors, during the summer months, to view the picturesque and much admired scenery of this neighbourhood.

Llanrwst was formerly noted for making harps; at present the spinning of woollen yarn, and the knitting of stockings, constitute the principal branches of trade. In the market-place stands the town-hall, a substantial structure, rebuilt in 1842.

The original church, dedicated to St. Grwst, was a small edifice, situated close to the margin of the river, and built about the year 1170; and was supposed, from its style of architecture, to have been erected in the fifteenth century: it contained a screen of beautifully carved oak, brought here from the abbey of Maenan, which was used as a gallery for the singers. A new church has, however, been built on its site; and adjoining it, on the other side, is Gwydir chapel, a handsome square castellated edifice, the interior of which is decorated with a profusion of carved work; it was built by Sir Richard Wynne, from a design by Inigo Jones, in 1633, as a burial place for his family, the deceased members of which had previously been interred in the chancel, and contains many elegantly engraved brasses, exhibiting portraits of several of this family. On the eastern wall is a slab of white marble, recording the pedigree of the founder, and tracing his ancestors to Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales. On the southern wall is a mutilated monument to the memory of Sir John Wynne, Bart., a learned antiquary, and an indefatigable gleaner of materials for the illustration of Welsh history. In the centre of the chapel, upon the floor, lies the stone coffin of Llywelyn the Great, who died in 1240, and was interred in theabbey which he had founded at Aberconway, thence removed to Maenan, and from that place, at the dissolution, the coffin was brought to the old parish church of Llanrwst, where it remained obscured by rubbish, until placed in its present more appropriate situation. The same attention has likewise been paid to another piece of antiquity placed near it, a recumbent armed effigy of Howel Coetmor, grandson of Davydd, brother to Llywelyn ap Gruffydd; he was the owner of the Gwydir estate, which was sold by one of his descendants to the family of Wynne. There are in the parish eleven places of worship for dissenters. A new church, called by the inhabitants the English church, has lately been erected about half a mile from Llanrwst. It is a neat and commodious edifice.

This ancient mansion, about half a mile distant from the town, beautifully situated amidst extensive woods of oak, which clothe the rocks projecting between the rivers Conway and Llugwy, near the foot of a lofty precipice called Carreg y Gwalch, or the Rock of the Falcon, was erected by John Wynne ab Meredydd, in 1555, and comprised an extensive, but somewhat irregular pile of buildings, ranged in a quadrangular style, and consisting of an inner and outer court. A great part of this edifice was taken down in 1816, since which time the present structure, though on a much smaller scale, has been built. A small portion of the former mansion still remains, and is fitted up in an antique and elegant style. That part which was built by Meredydd still remains, and contains some magnificent rooms, in which are several articles of furniture made from the druidical oaks of ancient times, and the cradle which nurtured Sir John and Sir Richard Wynne is still to be seen. The pleasure grounds are laid out with great taste, and contain a good collection of plants. Mary Wynne, afterwards Duchess of Ancaster, the last of this great race, conveyed the property to that family, and Lord Willoughby d’Eresby now possesses it in right of his lady.

This delightful vale, which is neither so widely extended as the Vale of Clwyd, nor so contracted as that of Llangollen, is regarded by the admirers of picturesque scenery, as exhibitingthe most varied assemblage of beautiful features which the pencil could delineate. Mr. Burke has pronounced it “the most charming spot in Wales.” The prospect of the dense woods and towering hills which enclose it on each side, is enlivened by the sparkling waters of the sportive Conway, which present an animated scene, either of small vessels arriving at the village of Trefriw, or of the diminutive boats, called coracles, used in fishing for salmon and smelts, considerable quantities of which are caught in their respective seasons. At Mayne, within a mile of Llanrwst, is a spring of high repute, and frequently used with great effect as a cold bath.

In the valley called Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, near Gwydir, is a cataract which falls about 100 feet, called Rhaiadr-y-Parc Mawr. The quantity of water, however, is seldom large enough to produce much effect. About two miles and a half from Llanrwst, on the Conway road, is the small but beautiful village of

situated on an eminence commanding a delightful and extensive view of the Vale of Llanrwst. Near and above this lovely spot is the celebrated lake of Geirionydd, on the banks of which lived the illustrious bard Taliesin, called by his countrymen, by way of distinction, “Taliesin ben Beirdd,” the chief of the bards. About a mile from Llyn Geirionydd is the mountain village of Llanrhychwyn. Lord Willoughby d’Eresby has erected a monument which his lordship intended should identify the spot where the poet resided. Here, in a sort of hollow, formed on the summit of a mound, are still to be seen some remains of an ancient habitation. The river Conway is navigable from its mouth to Trefriw, for vessels of 60 tons burden, which bring coal, lime, timber, and grocery, for the supply of the inhabitants of the town and neighbourhood, and carry back the produce of the slate quarries and mines of the adjoining parishes. Five miles S. E. of Llanrwst, is

a small village, very poor and primitive indeed, once celebrated as the burial place of St. Winefred, but the pilgrimages to it are now few and far between.—Three miles to the north stood the Abbey of Maenan; but a large old house built out of its ruins now occupies its place.

Distance from Llanrwst.

Miles.

Bettws-y-Coed

Trefriw

2½

Dolgarrog

Llanbedr

Dolwyddelan

Various Lakes near Llanrhychwyn and Dôlgarrog,viz.

Llyn Geirionydd

Llyn Bogynmyd

Llyn Cowlyd

Llyn Afangc.

Llyn Tal-y-llyn, and Llyn Crafnant, near Llanrwst.

Aberdovey

Aberystwyth

Chester

Dolgelley

Llanidloes

London

208

Newtown

Towyn

Machynlleth is an ancient well-built town, superior to most in North Wales for cleanliness and respectability, the streets being remarkably spacious and regular in appearance. It is situated on the road leading to Aberystwyth from Shrewsbury and North Wales, about a quarter of a mile from the southern bank of the river Dyfi. The township contains a population of 2482. It is the centre of the woollen manufactory in this part of the country, where also some tanning business is carried on. The Eagles is accounted the principal inn, and the Unicorn Arms, in the middle of the town, has obtained a good repute for excellent accommodation. The name of this town signifies the place of the river Cynllaeth, which was the ancient name of the Dyfi or Dovey, in the valley of which it stands. It is the supposed Maglana of the Romans, where, in the reign of Honorius, a lieutenant was stationed to awe the mountaineers.

Here Owen Glyndwr summoned the nobility and gentry, of Wales in 1402. Amongst the number, Sir David Gam attended with the design of murdering Glyndwr, but the plot was discovered, and Sir David was seized. He would havesuffered instantaneous death, had not some powerful friends interfered, through whose intercession his sentence was mitigated to confinement at Machynlleth, where he continued some time. But Sir David was scarcely set at liberty, ere he began to manifest a turbulent disposition; which so exasperated Glyndwr, that he burnt his house in resentment, uttering to Gam’s servant the following extemporaneous stanza:—

Os gweli di wr coch cam,Yn ’mofyn am Gyrnigwen;Dywed ei bod hi tan y lan,A nod y glo ar ei phen.

David, however, escaped this meditated vengeance by flying into England, where he continued in favour at the court of Henry the Fifth.

In the august assembly called Owen’s parliament, Glyndwr exerted his first acts of royalty, being then acknowledged as the Prince of Wales, and proclaimed and crowned.

Machynlleth has a neat and commodious church, which has recently been rebuilt. The town-hall or market-house was erected in 1783, by Sir W. W. Wynn, grandfather of the present owner of Wynnstay, who is lord of the manor, and holds courts leet twice in the year. The county court is held alternately here and at Montgomery, and the petty sessions for the hundred are held here occasionally. There are places of worship for Independents, Calvinists, and Wesleyan Methodists; and a national school liberally endowed.

The new line of road from Machynlleth to Towyn is exceedingly picturesque and beautiful, particularly that part of it lying between Penal and Aberdovey, which is cut out of the solid rock, and was opened in 1827; it passes along the northern bank of the Dovey, and affords most delightful views of the opposite coast of Cardiganshire, with the sea in the distance.

Bala

Bedd-gelert

Capel Curig

Caernarvon

Dolgelley

Ffestiniog

Harlech

Slate Quarries

Tan-y-Bwlch

0¼

Tremadoc

The Cataracts

This is a small village, situated in the most romantic part of the highly picturesque vale of Ffestiniog, on the southern bank of the river Dwyryd. It derives its name from a large stone, still remaining in the church-yard, called Maen-Twrog, erected to the memory of a British saint, who died about the year 610. The church was rebuilt on the site of the ancient structure in 1814, and is a neat stone edifice with a square embattled tower. The Rev. Edmund Prys, Archdeacon of Merioneth, one of the most eminent poets of his time, was rector of this parish: he translated the metrical psalms used in the Welsh churches, and assisted Bishop Morgan in translating the Bible. He died in the year 1623, and was buried in Maen-Twrog church. Nothing can exceed the beauties of the little vale in which the village is built; the well-wooded hills are moderately high, and scattered with pleasing effect.

There is a comfortable inn here, where neat cars may be had. A Sunday school was lately erected, at the expense of Mrs. Oakley. Within sight of the village, and about a quarter of a mile distant, on the opposite side of the river, is

that is, Below the Pass, which is one of the most beautiful and celebrated places connected with the range of Snowdonian mountains. It takes its name from being situated at the brow of a hill, where it overlooks the vale of Ffestiniog; and from Plâs Tan-y-Bwlch, the residence of the late W. G. Oakley, Esq., which is delightfully and romantically situated. The prospect from the terrace of this mansion is most splendid and interesting, embracing the glorious scenery of the vale of Ffestiniog, the river Dwyryd in all its meandering windings, the range of Merionethshire mountains in the distance, the majestic castle of Harlech, and the lake-like intervening views opening into Cardigan bay.

The Oakley Arms, an elegant hotel, is conveniently situated in the centre of the many attractive objects of this romantic district.

Several Roman antiquities have lately been found near this place, consisting of coins, urns, and inscribed stones, some of which are in the possession of Mrs. Oakley, and of J. Lloyd, Esq. of Pen-y-Glanau, who has also an extensive collection of antiquities, found in different parts of the Principality.

About two miles on the Harlech road, up a woody valley, are two most interesting waterfalls, on the Velin-Rhyd river, one called the Rhaiadr Dû, or the Black Cataract, and the other the Raven Fall. From the former the water rushes down a steep channel for about one hundred yards, and is thence thrown with great force over three rocks, each of which takes a different direction from the others: the depth of the fall is about forty feet. The latter is not more than a quarter of a mile distant, and in equal in beauty and grandeur. It consists of six different falls, each of which, about thirty feet in extent, is beautifully picturesque, and, as seen from the base of the rock over which the river descends, has a sublime and romantic appearance. There are also several other falls of minor interest on the streams that water the vale. At a cottage near the bridge, which the tourist will cross before he leaves the main road from Maen-Twrog, a guide to the falls may be obtained.

After the natural beauties of this lovely district, the object of the greatest attraction is the Ffestiniog railroad, for the conveyance of slates from the Ffestiniog quarries to Port Madoc, which is cut through rocks nearly the whole length of fourteen miles, and forms an inclined plane the whole distance, the fall of which is equal to one in one hundred and twenty, and the descent from its commencement to its termination is a most delightful ride, through an infinite variety of sublime and interesting scenery. For the accommodation of tourists and visitors, a carriage, connected with the Oakley Arms Hotel, has been placed on the line.

The quarries with which the railway is in connexion produce the best and most valuable kind of slate. They belong to Lords Newborough, Palmerston, and Powlett; Mrs. Oakley; S. Holland, J. Greaves, W. Turner, and Thomas Casson, Esquires.

Bala

Can-Office

Dinas Mowddwy

1½

Machynlleth

This is a little village, placed between the salient angles of three abrupt mountains, Arran, Camlan, and Moel Dyfi, in a small valley surrounded by many delightful scenes, through which runs the river Dyfi, or Dovey.

The falls of the Dovey at Pont Fallwyd, about half a mile distant, are particularly romantic and beautiful.

The church is a very humble Gothic structure. The churchyard is remarkable for several large yew trees, one of which measures twenty-two feet in girth, and forty feet in height.—Mallwyd has a good inn, where post chaises may be procured.

Chester

Denbigh

Flint

Hawarden

Holywell

London

200

Northop

Ruthin

Wrexham

The ancient British name of this place, (Yr Wyddgrûg), signifying a Lofty and Conspicuous Hill, and also the Roman name of Mont Altus, of like import, were derived from a high mound on the north-western side of the present town, now called the Bailey Hill, a commanding eminence, partly natural, and partly artificial, upon which a fortification appears to have been erected at a very early period, but whether by the ancient Britons, or by the Romans, is not accurately known. It is seated in a pleasant valley, watered by the river Alyn; consists principally of one long spacious street; and in 1841, with that part of the township immediately adjoining, contained 10,653 inhabitants. By the late Act for amending the representation, Mold has been constituted a borough, contributory with Flint and the other boroughs in the county, in the return of a member to Parliament.

In the environs are numerous handsome seats and elegant mansions. The principal inns are the Black Lion and Leeswood Arms hotels. To the former a spacious assembly room has lately been added, and many agreeable balls are there given. The parish abounds with mineral wealth; the westerndistrict is rich in lead ore, which is generally found imbedded in limestone, or chirtz; but the operations are much impeded by the subterraneous stream of the Alyn, which here flows under ground for the space of upwards of half a mile. Numerous tumuli are found in various parts of the parish. In October 1833, some workmen, digging in a field near the town, discovered a human skeleton, having at its feet an earthern pot, which apparently contained ashes; and on the breast, with other metal, a large plate of gold, much ornamented, valued at the sum of £70: the trustees of the British Museum became the purchasers of these antique relics.

In the neighbourhood are various works for smelting lead, and an extensive cotton mill.

The county assizes are held in Mold. A new county hall has been erected in the old English style of architecture, from a design by Thomas Jones, Esq., architect, of Chester.

The church, dedicated to St. Mary, and said to have been erected in the early part of the sixteenth century, is a spacious and handsome structure, consisting of a nave, north and south aisles, and a chancel, with a lofty square embattled tower, enriched with sculpture and crowned with pinnacles, which though of more recent erection, precisely correspond with the general design. The interior of the church is embellished with architectural details and sculptured monuments. Among numerous monuments worthy of examination, is an elegant one to the memory of Richard Davies, Esq., of Llanerch; and against a pillar of the nave is this singular epitaph, composed by Dr. Wynne for himself, and placed there during his life:—“In conformity to ancient usage, from a proper regard to decency, and a concern for the health of his fellow-creatures, he was moved to give particular directions for being buried in the adjoining churchyard, and not in the church; and as he scorned flattering of others while living, he has taken care to prevent being flattered by others when dead, by causing this small memorial to be set up in his lifetime: God be merciful to me a sinner!” In the burial ground are deposited the remains of Wilson, the celebrated painter, styled “the English Claude.” There are places of worship for various denominations of dissenters. A branch railway from Mold, to form a junction with the Shrewsbury and Holyhead lines, at Saltney, near Chester, will soon be constructed.

Of the ancient castle not a vestige at present can bediscerned, and its very site is completely covered with thriving plantations. The Bailey Hill, on which it stood, though at present difficult of ascent, was rendered still more arduous by the erection of strong ramparts and the formation of a deep moat: from the summit of this hill a fine view of the surrounding country is obtained. About a mile west of Mold is a noted spot of ground, called

Or the Field of Germanus. Soon after the final establishment of Christianity in this part of the Principality, about 448, a severe conflict took place here, between the combined forces of the pagan Saxons and Picts, and the native converts, of whom thousands had been just previously baptized. The latter calmly awaited the approach of the enemy at this place, under the command of Bishops Germanus and Lupus, the former of whom, having given his troops orders to repeat after him the word “alleluiah,” led them on to battle.

This triumphant shout, uttered by the whole army, struck such terror into the hearts of the pagans, that they fled on all sides; numbers perished by the swords of their pursuers; and many, attempting to escape, were drowned in the adjacent river. This celebrated victory, which took place in Easter week, has been distinguished by historians with the appellation of “Victoria Alleluiatica;” and the memorial of it has been perpetuated by the erection of a pillar, in 1730, on the spot where St. Germanus is said to have stood. Modern researches of antiquarians have raised a doubt as to the locality of this remarkable event. One mile and a half on the Chester road runs

The ancient and famous boundary between Wales and England, extending from Basingwerk, in Flintshire, to Monmouth. When the Romans made their inroads into this island, many of the Britons retreated into Wales, at which time the rivers Dee and Severn divided the two countries: all to the east was England, and to the west Wales. This division continued about 600 years, when the ambitious Offa, coveting the fertile lands of his neighbours, raised a quarrel and an army. He drove the conquered westward among the mountains, seized their property, formed this vast dyke, and ordained that neither Englishman nor Welshman should pass the new boundary.

On the right of the road leading towards Caergwrle, and about a mile from Mold, is an old structure, which presents a singular specimen of the style of domestic architecture during the ages of lawless violence in which it was erected: it consists of an ancient square tower of three stories, and appears to have been designed as a place of fortified habitation. During the wars between the houses of York and Lancaster, it was inhabited by Reinallt ab Gruffydd ab Bleddyn, who was constantly engaged in feuds with the citizens of Chester. In 1495, a considerable number of the latter came to Mold fair, and a fray arising between the hostile parties, great slaughter ensued on both sides; but Reinallt, who obtained the victory, took the mayor of Chester prisoner, and conveyed him to his mansion, where he hung him on the staple in his great hall. To avenge this affront, a party of two hundred men was dispatched from Chester to seize Reinallt, who, retiring from his house into the adjoining woods, permitted a few of them to enter the building, when, rushing from his concealment, he blocked up the door, and, setting fire to the house, destroyed them in the flames: he then attacked the remainder, whom he pursued with great slaughter: and such as escaped the sword, were drowned in attempting to regain their homes. The staple on which the mayor was hung still remains fixed on the ceiling of the lower apartment.

On the right of the road to Ruthin, about five miles west of Mold, is this conspicuous eminence, rising 1845 feet above the level of the sea. Upon the summit of this mountain, the gentlemen of the country entered into a subscription, and erected in 1810, a jubilee column, to commemorate the fiftieth year of the reign of George III. The first stone was laid by Lord Kenyon, on the 25th October, in the presence of more than 3000 people. The monument was executed from designs by T. Harrison, Esq., of Chester, and consists of a rough stone building of pyramidal form, about 150 feet in height, and 60 feet diameter at the base. A square block of stone in the centse marks the division of the two counties, Denbighshire and Flintshire, and four parishes. From this elevated spot may be seen parts of Staffordshire and Derbyshire; theWrekin, in Shropshire; Snowdon and Cader Idris, in Wales; and Black Comb, in Cumberland. The view is exceedingly grand and extensive, combining every variety of natural scenery; and as the mountain road has lately been repaired, and a room for visitors with a shed for horses erected on the summit, it forms a convenient and interesting spot from which to contemplate the beauties of Wales. The jubilee column has also been repaired by public subscription, to which Lord Kenyon was a liberal contributor.

This village, which lies about four miles from Mold, on the bridle road to Denbigh, is remarkable for the finely-carved roof of its church, which at the dissolution of monasteries was brought from the abbey of Basingwerk.

Beaumaris

Holyhead

Menai Bridge

Mona Inn, formerly called Caeau Môn, is an excellent hotel, situate midway between Bangor and Holyhead, on the new line of road between those places. Post chaises are kept here. About nine miles beyond the Mona Inn the mail road crosses the Stanley Sands, by means of an embankment 1300 yards in length, and upon an average of 16 feet in height. In the fields of the inn the geologist will find a curious red rock, containing jasper, which will cut glass like a diamond, and which also polishes beautifully.

Bishop’s Castle

London

169

Newtown

Welshpool

This town, the capital of the county, is romantically situated, partly on the summit, and partly on the declivity of a hill, rising from the southern bank of the Severn, and under the shelter of a mountain of a mountain of loftier elevation.—The town-hallstands in the middle of the town, the area underneath being used for the market: the upper part is divided into two handsome rooms, erected at the expense of Lord Clive, the larger of which is used for assemblies; the smaller, for the business of the quarter sessions. On the left of the road leading to Shrewsbury is the new gaol, built by the county at an expense of £10,000. In 1841, the population returns gave to this town 1208 inhabitants. The Dragon has the reputation of being the principal inn.

The town was anciently built and fortified with a castle, by Baldwyn, lieutenant of the Welsh marshes to William the Conqueror, and then called Tre-Faldwyn, i.e. Baldwyn’s Town; but Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Shrewsbury, in 1092, entered Powys-land, and took his place, which he fortified anew, built the castle (according to Doomsday-book), and called it after his own name. The church is a handsome cruciform structure, and contains an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, Esq., father of the celebrated Lord Herbert of Chirbury.

The ruins of the castle crown an eminence to the north of the town, the approach to which is easy; but on the opposite side, the rock upon which it is built rises almost perpendicularly. A seat belonging to the Earl of Powys, called Leymore Lodge, stands about half a mile from the town, on the road to Bishop’s Castle.

Is celebrated for having been the spot where the national independence of the Welsh was finally prostrated. After the death of Llywelyn, the northern Welshmen set up Madoc, his cousin, who assembled a great army, and after several victories at Caernarvon, Denbigh, Knockin, and on the marshes, the hero of the Principality was here overthrown, in 1294, by the collected power of the Lords Marshers, after a fiercely contested battle.

Caernarvon

Cricaeth

London

270

Pwllheli

Nevyn is a small market town, situated on the western coast of the county, with a population of 1726 inhabitants. It isonly remarkable as the place where Edward the First, in 1284, celebrated his conquest of Wales by tournaments and feasts. The coast in the neighbourhood is bold and rocky, and the surrounding scenery altogether of a mountainous character. The church is a neat building, erected in 1824.

On a narrow head-land, jutting into the sea, about a mile from the town, is Porth-yn-Llëyn, supposed, from remains of strong entrenchments, to have been a port frequented by the Romans. It forms a natural bay, in which there is safe anchorage in all winds, for vessels of the largest tonnage.

Aberfraw

Menai Bridge

Newborough is on inconsiderable village, containing 895 inhabitants, deriving its name from having been constituted a free borough by Edward the First. It was originally a place of great importance, being the capital of the island, and was for many years the residence of the princes of North Wales, who had a palace here, where, or at Aberfraw, on the opposite side of the Malldraeth sands, they occasionally fixed their seat of government, as the exigences of that turbulent period might require. At the time of the first conquest of Wales by Edward the First, this place appears to have been the chief town in the island, as well as the seat of justice for the whole comot of Menai. In the reign of Henry the Seventh, upon a representation to that sovereign, the assizes and other county business were removed from Beaumaris to Newborough. Having, however, declined from its former importance, in the third year of Edward the Sixth, the assizes, sessions, and general county business were removed back to Beaumaris, where they have been continued ever since.

Caerwys

Holywell

St. Asaph

Rhuddlan

This village is situated about three miles to the right hand of the great Chester and Holyhead road, and within three miles of the estuary of the Dee.

The church is a small structure of modern date, standing within a spacious cemetery, in which are some fine lofty trees. On the south of the church, and not far distant from the principal entrance, stands a tall and very beautiful stone cross, the upper part finely sculptured in high relief. Here is built one of the charity schools, founded and opened in 1726, by Dr. Daniel Williams, a dissenting minister, with an annual endowment of £8, a charity which he extended to every county in North Wales, distinguishing that of Wrexham, the place of his birth, by an annual salary of £15.

The conjecture of the learned antiquarian, Mr. Pennant, that from the numerous tumuli and other sepulchral memorials visible in the neighbourhood, it was the scene of the slaughter of the Ordovices, by the Romans under Agricola, seems to be well founded.

Near the village is a hill called Cop ’r ’leni, on the summit of which is a most enormous carnedd or tumulus, formed of lime-stones. It covers nearly an acre of ground, and is in height from 20 to 30 yards. The most probable conjecture is, that it was erected over the remains of some distinguished warrior or chieftain, slain in battle, and in later times served as an observatory to discern the approach of an enemy, for which purpose it is well calculated, as it commands an extensive view both of the neighbouring encampments, and the estuaries of the Dee and Mersey.

A short distance from this place, on the brow of another hill, is Bryn-y-Saethau, or the Hill of Arrows, probably from being the station of the archers in the engagement: close to this is Bryn-y-Lladdfa, or the Hill of Slaughter, a name peculiarly appropriate to the site of a battle; a little below again is Pant-y-Gwae, or the Hollow of Woe.

Between Newmarket and Mostyn, about one mile and a half distance from the former place, there is on an elevation a singular monument, denominated Maen Achwynfan, or the Stone of Lamentation and Weeping, on which are cut some very curious figures; the height of the stone is twelve feet, and two feet four inches wide at the base; the form is that of an ancient obelisk.

A short time since one of the tumuli or barrows was opened in the presence of Mr. Morgan, of Golden Grove, and the Rev. Henry Parry, vicar of Llanasa, and was found to contain a quantity of bones and boars’ tusks, the latter in good preservation.An urn, nearly two feet in height, was struck upon, but through the precipitancy of the workmen employed on the occasion, was unfortunately broken to pieces.

Bishop’s Castle

Llanidloes

Llanfyllyn

London

179

Machynlleth

Welshpool

Newtown, or as it is called by the Welsh Tre’-Newydd, is situated on the banks of the river Severn, on the road from Welshpool to Aberystwyth, and contains 3990 inhabitants.—The principal inns are the Boar and the Angel. Very little is known either of the origin or the early history of this place, which within the last fifty years, from the celebrity of its flannel manufacture, has risen into importance. A spacious hall has recently, been erected, from a design by Mr. Penson, in which the market for the staple commodity of the place is held, each alternate Thursday. Many factories have been established, which afford employment to more than two thousand persons.

A substantial bridge of stone over the Severn, called the Long Bridge, was completed in 1827, at a cost exceeding £4000: it consists of three arches of more than sixty feet span; the arches and the parapets being of grey free-stone, and the spears and spandrils of blue stone, found in the neighbourhood. A stone bridge of one arch was built in 1803, over the town brook, on the road to Welshpool, which, by way of distinction, is called the Short Bridge.

The church, dedicated to St. Mary, is an ancient structure. In the interior are some marble monuments, chiefly to the family of Price, of Newtown Hall. The environs abound with pleasing and romantic scenery, and a fine view of the town is obtained from the summits of the hills on the north and south sides. At the distance of about a mile and a half on the road to Built, there is a picturesque and beautiful spot, which is much resorted to by strangers; from the summit of a shelving mass of rock, eighty feet high, a stream of water rushes with impetuosity, forming in its descent a fine cascade, which winds at the base through a richly wooded glen.

Distances from Newtown.

Miles.

Bettws

Llanmerewig

Llanwynog

Chester

11½

Flint

Hawarden

4½

Holywell

London

194

Mold

This is a large and pleasantly situated village, in a fertile part of the country, surrounded by numerous seats and elegant villas. The Welsh name is Llan-Eurgain, from the dedication of its first church to St. Eurgain, daughter of the Prince Maelgwyn Gwynedd, and niece of St. Asaph, the second bishop of the see, which from him derived its name.

The church, which has a noble tower, erected in 1571, stands on a small eminence, and is an irregular building, embattled in the front, and supported by clumsy buttresses. The interior length is 113 feet, and the breadth 38½ feet. There have been three dedications of Northop church; the first to St. Eurgain; the second to St. Mary; and the third to St. Peter. There are several remarkable monuments in this church.

The parish of Northop contains about 6000 acres of land, nearly the whole extent of which is in cultivation. The population of the parish in 1841 was 3566.

Coals are found in the lower parts of the parish, and some of the works have been extensively carried on for many years; large quantities are conveyed by iron rail-roads to Connah’s Quay, and there shipped for Chester, Liverpool, and Dublin. Lead ore is found, though not in great abundance, in the township of Caer Allwch.

Chirk

Ellesmere

Llanfyllyn

Shrewsbury

Welshpool

Wrexham

This town, though not situated in Wales, is so contiguous, that it is frequently visited by travellers, either on commencingor terminating their tour, Oswestry lying on the great line of road from Llangollen to Shrewsbury. The town occupies the declivity of a range of hills, which skirt it on the western side, and command an extensive view over the fertile plains of Salop. The streets are well paved and lighted: the old buildings of timber and brick have been succeeded by respectable modern edifices; and the town, which has long been stretched beyond its ancient boundaries, is still progressively increasing in extent and importance. The population of the parish by the last census was 8843.

Ellesmere

Wrexham

This is a neat little village, delightfully situated on the banks of the Dee, over which river is a handsome stone bridge of two lofty arches, connecting the counties of Denbigh and Flint, on the road from Chester to Shrewsbury. The surrounding scenery is beautifully picturesque. The village, with its venerable church, forms a pleasing and highly interesting feature in a charming landscape. In the churchyard are several fine yew trees. The site of the ancient castle occupies the brow of a lofty promontory overlooking the river Dee; and in the park of Gwernhaeled are the remains of a large circular camp, with an ancient tumulus. In this vicinity is the elegant seat of F. R. Price, Esq. Bryn-y-Pys.

Angling Station.—The Dee up to Llangollen.

Aber

Bangor

Conway

Port Penrhyn

Penmaen Mawr is an immense hill, and so denominated from being the last of the long chain of mountains which cross the country. This gigantic rock, along which the road from Chester to Holyhead passes, exhibits a fine contrast with the adjacent fertility, by its sterile grandeur. This place was once the dread of the neighbourhood, the immense promontory affording only a narrow zig-zag path along the shelf of itsfrowning side for the terrified traveller to pass. Under his feet were loose masses of rugged stones, impeding his progress; beneath, a hundred fathoms down, the roaring ocean foaming against the perpendicular base of the mountain; and over his head, the impending precipice, threatening by its shivering aspect to overwhelm or hurry him headlong down the craggy steep. The danger, from the declivity of the mountain, with the crumbling nature of the strata, increased with his progress, and, in several difficult parts of the road, one false step must have inevitably proved fatal.

From the numerous accidents that occurred, it was long an object of melancholy consideration to the inhabitants in the vicinity: the winter evenings were often spent in relating the alarming tales of the perils and disasters attendant on passing Penmaen Mawr. Modern science, however, has made travelling in this fearful district both safe and attractive. By order of the Parliamentary Commissioners, a new road was opened in 1827, by the celebrated Mr. Telford. And a capacious tunnel has been constructed for the Chester and Holyhead Railway, through the adjoining mountain of Penmaen Bach, which seemed to defy every attempt to pierce its gloomy recesses.

On the summit of a lull called Braich-y-Ddinas, rising out of Penmaen, are the ruins of a castle, the fortifications of which were capable of containing 20,000 men; the remains of walls are still standing, and a well that supplied the garrison is constantly full of water, furnished principally by thecondensedvapour of the mountain. This was considered the strongest post possessed by the Britons in the district of Snowdon. It was deemed impregnable; and here the reduced bands of the brave Welsh army were posted, pending the negociation betwixt Edward I. and Llywelyn.

Beddgelert

Pwllheli

Pont Aberglaslyn

5½

Tremadoc

Penmorfa, or the Head of the Marsh, is a small wood-clad village, romantically situated on the western bank of Traeth Mawr, but is so much out of the way of tourists as to be seldom visited. The church is small, and dedicated to St. Beuno,having within a small monument to the memory of Sir John Owen, a general and supporter of Charles I., who, being taken prisoner at a battle near Bangor, was condemned to die by the Parliament; but through the intercession of Ireton, he was liberated after a few months’ imprisonment.

Beaumaris

Plas Newydd

Penmynydd is situated on the eastern side of Anglesea, near the great post road from Bangor to Holyhead, six miles from the Menai Bridge. It is celebrated as being the native place ofOwen Tudor.

Capel Curig

Corwen

Denbigh

Ffestiniog

14½

Llanrwst

Maen-Twrog

This is a small hamlet on the great London and Holyhead road, with a very comfortable inn. About four miles distant are the Conway waterfalls. A new road has lately been formed hence to Denbigh, and another to Ffestiniog.

Caernarvon

Llanidan

Plas Newydd (the New Mansion), anciently Llwyn Moel (the Grove on the Hill), one of the principal groves in Anglesea, sacred to druidic worship, once the magnificent seat of the Marquis of Anglesea, but now occupied by T. Assheton Smith, Esq. of Vaenol. Caernarvonshire. It is beautifully situated on the curve of the Menai, protected on three sides by venerable oak trees, and about one hundred yards of the strait, with a fine lawn in front, sloping to the edge of the water, and defended from the encroachment of the sea by a strong parapet embattled wall.

Here the noble proprietor had the distinguished honour of entertaining his late Majesty George the Fourth, on his visitto Ireland in 1821; and also, at the invitation of the Noble Marquis, who was then exercising his official duties as Lord Lieutenant of Ireland, her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent and her illustrious daughter, the Princess (now Queen) Victoria, took up their residence for several weeks in the summer of 1822, during the time of holding the Eisteddfod at Beaumaris, where they visited and occasionally resided.

Opposite the stables, behind the house, stands the most complete cromlech in Anglesea, perhaps in Britain; and the domains abound with most interesting vestiges of antiquity.

A short distance from Plas Newydd, is Mr. Saunderson’s beautiful cottage, in the formation and embellishment of which that gentleman has displayed peculiar taste; and about half a mile to the west, within the park, is Plasgwyn, the seat of the lute Rev. Henry Rowlands, and also Llanidan Hall, the seat of Lord Boston.

On Craig-y-Dinas, a rock on the side of the London and Holyhead road, about midway between the Menai bridge and Plas Newydd, stands the Anglesea Column, erected to commemorate the exploits of the noble marquis. The first stone was laid June 18, 1816, being the anniversary of the battle of Waterloo; and the pillar was completed September 8 in the following year. Its height from the base is 100 feet, and the summit of the hill on which it is built rises 260 feet above the level of the sea. It forms an interesting and commanding object in the romantic scenery of the neighbourhood.

Bala

Corwen

Pont-y-Glyn (the Bridge of the Precipices) is situated on the great Holyhead and London road, between Corwen and Cerniogan Mawr. The woody glen, at the head of which stands Pont-y-Glyn, with its prominent rocks, nearly obscured by the surrounding foliage, forms a lovely picture. On a sudden turn of the road, stands the bridge thrown over a chasm. Beneath is the rugged and precipitous bed of the river, where, among immense masses and fragments of rocks, the stream foams with violent impetuosity. The cataract is not lofty, but from its being directly under the bridge, where it is seendashing among the dark opposing rocks, with the addition of the pendant foliage from each side, the scene is finely picturesque and elegant. The bridge rests upon the two nearly perpendicular rocks, and appears to be 50 or 60 feet above the bed of the stream. The view thence down the hollow is truly sublime.

Caernarvon

Chester

Cricaeth

London

250

Nevyn

Pwllheli, or the Salt Water Pit, is a pleasant market-town and sea-port, the population of which is about 1500. The market is held on Wednesday and Saturday. The Crown and Anchor, where post-chaises may be had, is accounted the principal inn; the Ship and Ivy Bush are respectable. The town, which is well built, has become a place of some resort for bathing. The parish church, which is situated about half a mile to the north of the town, is small and dilapidated. A new church, dedicated to St. Peter, was consecrated by the Bishop of Bangor September 16th, 1834. It is a neat and chaste edifice, capable of accommodating a large congregation. Two banks have branches here, the North and South Wales and the National Provincial.

The town-hall, erected in 1818, is a neat substantial edifice, the lower part of which is appropriated on market-days as shambles, and the upper part contains an excellent assembly room, and a room in which the petty sessions are held. The commerce consists entirely in the importation of coal and of shop goods from Liverpool, for the supply of which to the surrounding country Pwllheli forms a great depôt, and is esteemed the cheapest place for living in North Wales. This is one of the contributory boroughs which, with Caernarvon, returns a member to parliament.—The surrounding scenery comprehends many pictures of grandeur and of beauty; and a view from the town, embracing the whole extent of the Snowdon mountains, the Merionethshire hills, and Cardigan bay, is truly magnificent. Several improvements are in progress at Pwllheli.

Abergele

Flint

Holywell

London

220

Rhuddlan contains, with the chapelry of Rhyl, 2415 inhabitants. The town lies in a flat, on the eastern hank of the river Clwyd, about two miles from its influx into the sea. The river is here a little extended in width, so as, at high water, to admit vessels of 50 tons up to the bridge.

Rhuddlan was formerly a place of considerable magnitude, but no traces of its former importance are left, except in the ruins of its ancient castle. Edward the First annexed to it the privileges of a free borough, to facilitate an intercourse between the Welsh and English, for the purpose of allaying the rooted enmity and the unhappy jealousies that had for centuries rent the two countries. In all his proceedings, this monarch exhibited strong features of policy. He had been early taught that when stratagem would supply the place of men and treasure, it was at least wise, if not always just, to adopt it. Hence originated the statute of Rhuddlan, and hence was his infant son proclaimed Prince of Wales. This statute, which was passed in parliament assembled here in the year 1283, contains a set of regulations for the government of Wales; it also recites many curious particulars relative to the Welsh customs previous to Edward’s conquest, against which it was in a great measure directed.

Betwixt the town and the sea is a large marsh called Morva Rhuddlan (the Marsh of Rhuddlan), where, in the year 725, a dreadful battle was fought between the Saxons, under Offa, king of Mercia, and the Welsh, in which the latter, after an obstinate conflict, were defeated with great slaughter, Carodoc, king of North Wales, and many of his principal chieftains, being among the slain. Such of the Welsh as escaped the sword of the enemy, perished in the marsh, from the influx of the tides; and all who were taken prisoners were inhumanly massacred, without regard to age or sex. In commemoration of this disastrous event, was composed the well-known Welsh air of “Morva Rhuddlan,” which is much admired for the plaintive sweetness of its melody.

The bridge at Rhuddlan consists of two arches, built or rebuiltin 1595, with an impression of the arms of Hughes, Bishop of St. Asaph, upon one of the battlements.

At a private house is shewn part of the building where Edward the First held the parliament which passed the statute of Rhuddlan, in 1283; the observation of the tourist will be directed to it by the following inscription on the building:—“This fragment is the remains of the building where King Edward the First held his parliament,A.D.1283, in which was passed the statute of Rhuddlan, securing the Principality its judicial rights and independence.”

is built of red stone, nearly square, and has six towers. The principal entrance appears to have been at the north-west angle, betwixt two round towers; the two opposite to these are much shattered, but the others are in a better state of preservation. There is some difference of opinion as to the period at which this castle was erected. Two celebrated historians, Powel and Camden, attribute it to Llywelyn ap Sitsyllt, who reigned in Wales at the commencement of the eleventh century, and made it the place of his residence. In 1063, three years before William the Conqueror came to the throne, Rhuddlan castle was in the possession of Gruffydd ap Llywelyn, prince of North Wales. It was in that year attacked and burnt by Harold, the son of Godwin, Earl of Kent (afterwards King of England), in retaliation for some depredations committed by the Welsh on the English borders. It was subsequently the scene of many interesting historical events.

In 1399, the castle was seized by the Earl of Northumberland, previous to the deposition of Richard the Second, who dined here, in company with the Earl, in his way to Flint, where he was treacherously delivered into the power of his rival, Bolingbroke.

In the civil wars, Rhuddlan was garrisoned for the King, but was surrendered to General Mytton in July, 1646, and in the December following was ordered by the parliament to be dismantled.—It is at present the property of the Bodryddan family.

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