We are here among the Elliàbs, who are constantly at war with the Bòhrs dwelling opposite. Twenty-four Bòhrs had come across to us to-day and brought us cows. The Elliàbs wanted to fall at once on these men, and to massacre them. We made earnest remonstrance to them to prevent such a scene, but they continued angry at the Bòhrs coming into their territory, and thought that they could provide us as well with cattle. The Bòhrs seem to be wealthy, and are better armed than the Elliàbs. Theyhuntelephants, but also catch them in pits as elsewhere. The Elliàbs have their foreheads adorned, like the Keks, with artificial wrinkles. They want also the four lower incisors, as is generally the case on the White Stream. The people are not muscularly limbed, but tolerably tall. They wear a feather on the head, or a coiffure like a flat basket, which may serve them as such, for it is only very loosely put on.
The war-dance which they performed in honour of us was of the same character as those we had hitherto seen, but it was executed here even in detail. They approach us marching in a column, with a leader at their head. The commander tunes the battle-song, and the chorus answer him. They run forward, and the column breaks, because in their wars they meet breast to breast; they parry with their hands the feigned hostile darts, and avoid them, bending and writhing their body, and kneeling down. Theyretreat, and the leader encourages them by a warsong, and even a woman steps out from their little company and sings to them to inspire them with courage, in quite a different melody, and with half-threatening, half-imploring gestures. The column has again closed, deploys a second time, and sings its answer in vehement and broken notes. We need not understand the language in such a warlike play, which reminds us irresistibly of the ancient Germans. They generally performed this dumb show with a pliability and truth of expression, such as no Europeanartistecould imitate, unless he had learned their manner of carrying on war from his infancy. Moreover it does not seem that they carry shields, because otherwise they would have made the parry with their hand differently. When I think how skilfully the dexterous horsemen of the Shaigiës performed the well-known girid, or Dshirid game, threw the obtuse spears, parried them with the hand or the girid, which answers to the Germangerte(switch), or avoided them, now I believe that the men of Bari mostly make use in their wars of the little hand-shields. The Elliàbs have brought cattle; but repeatedly declare that it is the same to them whether Selim Capitan gives them beads or not. Such proud disinterestedness has not hitherto come before our notice.
5th February.—The thermometer shewed, before sunrise, 15°; yesterday morning, however, 20°, but at noon it was not higher than 27°, and at three o’clock 28°, and fell after sunset to 26°. The hygrometer has been so disordered by Arnaud’s masterhand, that he cannot even make use of it himself.This morning was misty, damp, and cold. The corn was brought ashore from the vessels, and it was discovered that a great part of it was mouldy. The bad condition of the vessels is alone the cause of this, and Selim Capitan bears the blame, because he had not taken care to have them properly caulked before setting out. The people of this place have no ornaments on themselves, and not even elephants’ teeth to dispose of. I could only therefore procure a broad iron bracelet, and looked with a kind of envy, when Selim Capitan despatched the sandal to the Bòhrs, on the right shore, and fetched off a number of beautiful elephants’ teeth. Cultivation is not to be seen on and near our anchorage.
Selim Capitan asserts, that the questionable river is a gohr, which he saw in the country of the Liènns, flowing away from the main stream. I cannot persuade myself that I could have overlooked this, with all my earnest attention. We shall navigate it therefore this afternoon, in order to divest ourselves of uncertainty.
EXAMINATION OF AN ARM OF THE NILE. — FORESTS ON THE BANKS. — PRICE OFFERED IN ENGLAND FOR A LIVE HIPPOPOTAMUS. — THESE ANIMALS RARELY MET WITH IN EGYPT. — THE LIÈNNS. — ROPES MADE FROM THE LEAVES OF THE DOUM-PALM. — UÈKA. — CHARACTER AND DESCRIPTION OF THE LIÈNNS. — THE EMEDDI-TREE. — DÖBKER-TREE. — COTTON-TREES. — THE TSHIÈRRS. — TRIBES OF THE BODSCHOS AND KARBORAHS. — LABYRINTHS OF THE WHITE STREAM. — BARTER WITH THE KARBORÀHS. — THEIR DRESS, ARMS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. — MOUNT NERKANJIN. — ISLAND OF TUI. — THE KOKIS. — CONTEST WITH HIPPOPOTAMI. — CROCODILES’ EGGS. — HOSTILITY OF THE TSHIÈRRS TO THE ELLIABS. — EBONY CLUBS. — THE BÒHRS: THEIR SONGS, ORNAMENTS, ETC. — ANT-HILLS. — “IRG-EL-MOJE” OR WATER-ROOT, A SPECIES OF VEGETABLE. — VETCHES. — THE ANDURÀB OR ENDERÀB-TREE. — THE DAKUIN-TREE. — A SOLDIER STABBED BY A NATIVE. — ANTIQUITY OF DUNG-FIRES.
6th February.—Yesterday the doubtful river was indeed investigated, but only for a very short distance, for the wind was contrary, and the sailors and soldiers murmured loudly, because they knew that this intermediate voyage, which threatened to delay their arrival in Khartùm, arose from the Franks. Under such circumstances, even the expressions of the natives of the country cannot be depended upon, for our black soldiers can translate just what pleases them. At first the river was said to come from the mountains above, and now they make it take its origin as a gohr near the Liènns. We had an interpreter with us, who is familiar with its shores, andwho returned to us at this opportunity. When he also confirmed the new assertion, the further examination was provisionally given up after a course of about an hour long. Where it flows down N.W. by N., we turned round and navigated W. by N. out of it back to our encampment. The projecting shore had deceived me, therefore, when previously passing by, with respect to the direction of this arm of the Nile. It is called Kiehr, which is the often-heard kir (water), thence Kirboli, Kirti, Kiti. There is therefore no doubt that the name of the White Stream, the main arm of which is called also here Kir-Te, is originally Te, from Barì to Khartùm, for it is even called Te Uri by the Nubas, the former word not being used for drinkable water. The country of these four arms of the Nile is called Kofon, corresponding to the Arabic mogren (conflux).
I repaired this morning on board Selim Capitan’s vessel, and shall remain with him to-day, on account of his interpreter. It was not till this morning that it was at last determined to follow further the questionable arm of the Nile, which we navigated for a short tract the day before yesterday. Seven o’clock. We leave our landing-place, and proceed up the Kièhr in a westerly direction. After a quarter of an hour the latter serves as a gohr to N., appearing soon to disembogue itself into the stream, which we navigated previously.
We go some paces here S.W., where quite a little island, with high reeds, rises in the middle of the river. From W. to S.W., from W. to N.W. The Kièhr seems to be rapid at its tide, and to exercise great force: we see it by the torn and indentedshores, and especially by the devastations on a little gohr, now dry. Half-past seven o’clock. A broad gohr flows away to N., and winds immediately N.W. Our river, which increases considerably in breadth above this Nile arm, winds W.S.W., and S.W. Before us a large forest; near it we halt immediately afterwards.
At eight o’clock, a north-wind gets up, and we sail S.S.W., and S. by E.; after a quarter of an hour, S.W., and W., and with a short bend, immediately to S. Right and left pastoral villages, with lowing herds and natives on the ant-hills. The huts have the form of a bee-hive, are five to six feet high, and plastered with Nile slime. The ash-grey people dance and jump, and want to keep us by force. The women run and sing by us, their hands thrown over their heads in real despair because we will not stop. Half-past eight o’clock. S. by E. The depth of the water not more than a fathom. On the left a long summer village and a harim of several tokuls close to it. We halt a moment at the right shore, take the wood which the negroes had already brought for us to the shore, give them some sug-sug, and proceed. The women, with large leathern aprons, who have gone away empty-handed, jump and make gestures as if they were mad.
A quarter before nine o’clock, S. Clouds threatening rain. At the right the forest close at hand. E.S. On the right a large pastoral village, with plastered beehives, looking like the bakers’ ovens in the land of Sudàn. The cattle stand with their beautifully-twisted horns, close pressed together, and low at us, probably because they recognise us as deadly enemies,and would rather be in the meadow than waiting here for us. We do not halt for the sake of the oxen, but on account of the vessels stopping behind, although we ought to take advantage of the favourable wind, as the water is falling more and more. Elliàbs are there, who are unarmed, but yet immediately begin their war-dance. The vessels have, fortunately, not been stranded, and we sail on at nine o’clock. The village is called Kiùi or Quùi, and is the boundary of the Elliàbs on the right side of the river. After a quarter of an hour, E.S.E. Half-past nine o’clock, S.E. by S., and in a bend to S. A quarter before ten o’clock, S.S.E., and S.E., where, at the corner, the crocodiles make a great rustling in the shallow water, and seem to be engaged in violent combat. At ten o’clock, S.S.E.
I am again very weak to-day, and cannot yet recover myself, for I want a glass of good wine; every moment I sink back upon the cushion, and can scarcely hold a pen. The Haba accompanies us continuously at a slight distance from the right shore. A quarter after ten o’clock. From S.E. to S.W., and again to S.E. We see many crocodiles wallowing about in the water, who do not look at us in a very friendly manner. Half-past ten o’clock. From S.E. by S. to S.W. The hippopotami, thirteen in number, are crowded like smooth rocks in the water before us. They spout up the water from anger at still larger swimming animals approaching, as they may conceive our vessels to be, for it does not seem that they are in conflict amongst themselves, or that they want to take the field against the crocodiles, who are keeping behind us.
A little before eleven o’clock some armed ash-grey men shew themselves, without any ornaments, on the right shore. From S.W. by W. to S. by W. We halt at the right shore to receive some elephants’ teeth, but they are too old, and we bear off immediately again to S.E. In the forest at the right hand we perceive a number of birds and a considerable herd of gazelles, who stand in an attitude of curiosity like goats. Up to here the Elliàbs ran after us from the village of Kiùi. Half-past eleven o’clock. From S.E. by E. to S., yet not for long, but to the left S.E. At half-past twelve o’clock. We halt a second time at the right shore, owing to want of wood. I saw here a large oval shield of neat’s hide, held simply by a stick. It belonged to an Elliàb; these shields are said to be used more in contests with animals than in war. This is perhaps likewise the case with the few larger shields in the country of Bari.
At half-past one o’clock we navigate again to S.E., and a quarter before two to S. by E. We see that the forest lies lower than the shores, and that the water enters it. This local quality of ground is the case generally, perhaps, in the forests. Either they lie behind the dam of the old shore, which prevents the mass of waters of the periodical rains from flowing into the river, or the Nile enters through the chasms of the shores, if they do not lie in recesses or old river-beds, where the rain water collects and remains on the clayey substratum, which is the very same even as far as the mountains of Bari. How could it be possible else that these vigorous trees (the Tihl or elephant-tree is particularly seen here), shouldretain their magnificent verdure abstractedly from the atmospheric moisture.
Two o’clock. The thermometer this morning 18°, noon 26°, and now 27° Reaumur. From S. to S.S.E. and soon again to S. The north wind has slackened since noon; we navigate slowly, and must even content ourselves with libàhn, for no one has yet thought of taming river buffaloes to tow us in the water itself. Laughable as this may appear at the moment, yet I do not consider it impossible, for according to the crew, a young hippopotamus is as tame as a calf. The apothecary Laskaris possessed shortly before my arrival in Khartùm such a Nile calf. He wanted to make a vast sum of money by it, for they had offered in England a reward of some thousand pounds sterling to any one who would bring a live hippopotamus to London. It is well known that a living species has never yet been seen in Europe. His avarice did not allow him, however, to place the beast in some garden close to the Nile; nor did he provide a cow and fresh milk. He was even foolish enough to lower it into the cold cistern, where it died in a few days. Although this primitive animal was formerly indigenous in Egypt, yet now it very rarely descends over the cataracts to that country. Mohammed Ali had received such a beast as a present from Upper Nubia, which was kept for some years as a curiosity in a reservoir in the Nile at Bulak, the lower port of Kàhira.
Half-past three o’clock.—From S. to S.E. by S. On the right, in the badly planted Haba, the first doum-palms again, standing at the corner, which we pass by at a quarter before three, for a very shorttract to S.S.W., and equally rapidly S.S.E., to go at three o’clock again S.S.W., and immediately to S. A half-finished tokul-village rises very humbly between some old low huts. There were here benches in the form of couches, which I had not yet seen on the White Stream, although I had not exactly regretted their absence. They consist of cudgels, and every single tokul has its seat of repose. Half-past three o’clock. From S.W. to S. by E. Near the doum-palms, we see also solitary and unusually high poison-trees in the forest, at the right hand. The country appears very little populated; perhaps a sign that we are really in a tributary arm or gohr. This was also the case even where the Kièhr disembogues near the Elliàbs. The scantier population may arise, in part, from the more recent lines of the shore being less constant. The solitary tokuls belong to fishermen, if we may judge from the sürtuks and fish-baskets set up. Four o’clock. From S. in a bend to S.E. On the left a long and miserable village stretches along the shore, with nine carcases of tokuls, and small tobacco-plantations. This appears also to be a village of fish-eaters.
Half-past four o’clock. Still the solitary tokuls, with fishing implements and sürtuks. From S.E. by S., a short tract to S. The natives are of a friendly disposition, and laughed immoderately, when the sailors, among whom our Abu Hashis play the principal part, imitated the cry and laughter of the women. By the short stakes, which are already sufficiently known to us, we perceive that their icthyophagism has a flesh-side. They also use the word matta (lord and king) when they address us. It may,therefore be a borrowed word among them; it is said also to be used in Habesh. A quarter before five o’clock, from S.S.W. to S. by E. A miserable village, with tobacco-plantations, on the left shore, but the divine smoke rising close by, asserts the old attractive power of meat. We stop for a moment, at five o’clock, at the right shore, as if we were about to land, but the drum is beat, and the tired crew must again to the rope. S.E. by S. The village at the right shore, before which a little sycamore hangs over the river, is better built, and its several magazines testify that the people apply themselves to agriculture. Half-past five o’clock. At the upper end of the village the river winds in an arch S.E. by E. We see continually doum-palms in the forest of the left shore, whereon a village rises.
At last we are again close to the main stream, and near the Island of Buko. At sunset we halt at the right shore S.S.E. We see from hence the trees near which, a few days ago, we lay at anchor by the village of Buko, and also the village itself, but separated from it by land, and our gohr,—the presumed river, winds to the right.
The Liènns dwell here; and the interpreter already dismissed, Gùmberi, who had left us in Berize, the capital of the Bambers, came to us again. Clothing appears here to be the privilege only of the chiefs, for Gùmberi was obliged to take off his red shirt, it being against the Ethiopian regulations about dress, and he was asked whether he was a sheikh. (I use here, as throughout my book, the word sheikh of the Arabic language, as the most significant in analogous circumstances.) There are many doum-palmshere, especially young copse, upon which the sailors pounce, and take the leaves to make cords of them. I see, to my sorrow, that they do not even spare the narrow convoluted hearts, which are four to five feet long. The leaves are plucked, laid in bundles upon a stone, and worked with a stick, till they are split into fibres; then they are again twisted together, sorted anew, and laid, like coarse hemp, in the sun to dry. The very same process takes place with the inside bark of various trees. I got, subsequently, in the country of the Shilluks, a small handful of flax, which, according to my Tshauss Marian, was prepared from the bark of the Baobàb: this tree is called in the Nuban language, Omràh; its fruit, however, Tabeldi. It is whiter than flax, shining like raw silk, and feels exactly like the latter.
7th February.—The beating of the doum-leaves goes on again at daybreak, as if the crew wanted to acquire enormous treasures by them in Khartùm. It appears as if we shall remain here to-day, on account of the doum-palms and hunting. Our encampment is an old bean-field, from which my servants brought me, in a very short time, a number of beans, quite young, to eat as a salad. Unfortunately I must begin to be sparing of my vinegar, for it is truly welcome to me in these regions, as the most refreshing restorative, although it causes thirst afterwards. I have almost entirely renounced meat, and live principally on coffee, biscuit and uèka. The people cannot subsist without this dried bamie, and therefore my men have laid in a plentiful stock. Rubbed to a meal on the murhaka, I have it boiled to athick pap, with onions and the pepper of the country, (fillfill bèlladi), and I afterwards pour vinegar over it. I remarked this morning that Arnaud noted 82° atmospheric moisture, although the hygrometer has entirely left off working. I made him comprehend that this was somewhat too much here; he took the thing, however, as a bagatelle, and said that it would rectify itself afterwards!
The race of the Liènns, who dwell here, is called Kikin, and the Tshièrrs live opposite. The Liènns are friendly, and even sociable: they allow themselves to be joked with, and take the blows with reeds, which the sailors deal them, as play; but do not venture to return them. Though these people are inclined generally to jesting, and merry scenes often take place with our wags, during which the former are a pattern of good humour, yet they still remain extremely mistrustful in barter. It is not till they have grasped the beads firmly in their hands, that they let the goods go which are to be given for them. I remark that the number of the stippled lines on their forehead is usually from three to five; we see many also with quite a smooth forehead. Their weapons are better than those of the Elliàbs, and they exhibit, on the whole, more wealth, not only by their ornaments, which, indeed,per se, are insignificant, but, in particular, by a certain plumpness of body, denoting better nourishment.
They bring us baskets, very neatly plaited, of split bamboo reeds, square at the top, and protruding spherically at the bottom. I get some bows and arrows, perfectly similar to those of Bari. The arrows, with wooden or bone points, are principally only destinedfor the chase, as also the spears, with barbs. Iron is dear here, and they did not like, therefore, to sell their javelins, some specimens of which I had acquired previously. They tell us that there are several lions in the neighbouring Haba, and want to prevent us from hunting on that account. We remained on land to-night, with just confidence in the good disposition of the people, as we had done previously among the Elliàbs, and set sentinels on the shore.
8th February.—I repaired early this morning to the forest, and returned in two hours, just as Arnaud was setting out, in company with Suliman Kashef and his men. Suliman altered his mind suddenly, alleging, as a pretext, the heat; and Arnaud also, who, before sunrise, was going to slaughter lions and tigers, composed himself very submissively to return. The doum-palms, if they do not form a single species, have a meagre appearance, and but little height; the doum-copse, on the contrary, stands very luxuriantly, and measures sixty fingers’ breadth in a fan. The negroes have really no dome-fruit left, and the elephants may have had the beginning of it, and the gleanings. The poison-trees are unusually large here.
A tree attracted my attention, by its size and light-coloured branches, similar to those of the sycamore. Unfortunately it had lost, like the baobàb, its leaves, except a few. The ends of its boughs, from which the leaves develope themselves, have buds similar to those of the chesnut-trees. Mariàn says that this tree is called Emeddi, and is present on all the mountains of Nuba. According to him it has small flowers, and little fruits of a reddish colour.These are as large as clusters of grapes, and hang together in the same manner, only somewhat looser, are very sweet and eaten. The elephant-tree (in the language of the Nubas Tihl, or also Or Omul—Or, tree, omul, elephant) stood in abundant verdure, with long young fruits. As I now hear, its fruit is eaten by the Nubas only in case of necessity. If we consider this tree, with its shady roof of leaves and its magnificent long clusters of flowers and fruits, we feel inclined to look uponitas the Persea, or arbor cœlestis of the hieroglyphics, and not the leafless baobàb, which is mostly a ruin without shade. In Kordofàn, the Or Omul or Tihl sheds, moreover, its leaves, as the beautifully foliated Emeddi does here.
Another tree pleased me, which was covered with white flowers, as if with snow. The small, pointed, and succulent leaves are something like those of the pear-tree, as well as the tree itself. Four white leaves are arranged around eighteen long blue stamina. The fruit is said to be as large as an egg, and is eaten. The tree is called döbker, and is also indigenous in Nuba. Among the mimosas we remarked only talle; sunt seems not to present itself at all in these upper regions. Nearly all the wood of these trees is soft, and was felled to be worked into pulleys and other things for the vessels. As the bark of the muddus-tree is better than all the others for ropes, and does not appear on the great Nile, it was eagerly sought for. I found also some cotton-trees with small leaves, in the Haba, which lies tolerably high, and presents an extensive view. Honey is found here in the ground, and on the trees, but the little cakes contain only a small quantity.A large durra-field in the Haba lies, on the whole, high, and falls away to E. and S.; the soil is strongly mixed with sand. It must rain here, therefore, for a long time, and continuously, as the powerful growth of the trees bespeaks, because otherwise durra, even were it ever so rapid in coming to maturity, could not thrive without artificial irrigation.
The Tshièrrs live in friendship with the Liènns, whose language they use, and have the very sameinsigniaof race on their foreheads. Wherever there are boundaries, such as the river here, then there appears jealousy and discord. A little slave of Selim Capitan’s begged to be allowed to throw into the water the other boy, who was not, like himself, a Tshièrr, but a Liènn, because he dwelt on the other side of the river. In other respects both these tribes live in peace; and yesterday a Tshièrr brought us a young slave-girl purchased from the Liènns, and she was bought in exchange by Suliman Kashef. We have already become too intimate with the natives by our two days’ abode for the Turks not to commence civilising them after their manner. At the head stands Selim Capitan, who is really earnest about the matter; at his side, Suliman Kashef, who is not behind the worthy son of Crete in cultivation, and likes laughing and amusement. The thermometer had this morning 20°, noon until three o’clock, 27° to 29°, and after sunset 27° Reaumur.
9th February.—At half-past seven o’clock this morning we leave our encampment, and go by the rope E.S.E., and soon S.E. A summer village lies at the right shore, and an island in the water, which is low and covered with green vegetables. Twotokuls are upon it, surrounded with high fish-baskets and hedges of cut simsim, which appears to be dried in this way. I remark on the island as well as on the steep disrupt shores, that the lower thick layer of earth consists of black mould, whilst the middle stratum is red with iron particles, and the upper one strongly impregnated with sand. The arable land here appears not to arise from a general deposition, but has its commencement from the slime of a lake, and the remains of a subjacent vegetation for its formation. The north wind has set in, and we navigate round the island in S.W., S.E., and S., and sail at eight o’clock S. by E. Immediately afterwards S.S.W., a small island before the forest on the left shore. Eight o’clock, S.E. Here the island will soon end. Then to S.; solitary farm-yards on the right and left on the low shores; cultivation before the rising Haba. A quarter before nine o’clock, S.S.W. The left shore is covered with young dome-palms, and a large widely scattered village ascends gradually with the shore to the height of the Haba, in which we remark a number of large dome-palms. The margin of the shore stretches flat along the river, and before it lies a completely shallow island, or peninsula, whereon a quantity of fishing implements are lying about. Nine o’clock S., then S.S.E., and S.E. Right and left, the level land is well cultivated with durra, simsim, and especially lubiën.
The wind changes after nine o’clock to E. We furl the sails, and halt at half-past nine o’clock, at the left shore, after we had first gone a short tract to E. by the rope. There is a very little isle in the river, and near the trees on the left shore a hamlet,under which the edge of the shore is also cultivated. From deck we perceive five other villages, of which one is large, at a slight distance from the water. The Haba retreats for an hour. At the right shore are two villages, and the Haba is still further distant.
The people of the Lienns are, on the whole, poor in ornaments and weapons, although individuals carry two or three spears, and a bow with arrows, without quivers, in the left hand. They have the heads of the spears generally turned towards the ground, which was not the case further up. This is perhaps rather a sign of friendly sentiments than their usual custom. They fear, as I saw yesterday and the day before, even the smacking of the great, long whips, that the sailors have made from bark for their amusement. They like to look at the beating of the palm-leaves, and then the sailors cannot forbear dealing cracking blows right and left, with the dome-leaves, and running after them. The Liènns understand a joke, and laugh, run away, and return immediately again to let themselves be cudgelled anew. They are great children, who are happy at seeing us and our doings, and playing with the soldiers, although the jests of the latter are often rude, and at times even end with plunder.
Ten o’clock.—We proceed with the libàhn E. by S. Half-past ten o’clock. From S.E. to S.W. At the left lie four villages, tolerably close together, and on the right rises, at a quarter of an hour distant, a considerable village between trees, on the gentle height of the Haba; before it a large level field descends to the edge of the river. Soon again to the left round to S. by E. A crowd of natives, amongst whom arealso some coloured red, welcome us from all sides. Our gohr is not above fifty paces broad, but has a strong fall. Nothing is yet to be discovered of the main stream, and we begin now to doubt in our very tedious voyage, whether we did see on the 6th instant our old anchorage at the island of Buko. A quarter before eleven o’clock, S.E. by S. Not far from the right shore, a large village, near which we hear the lowing of herds. The shore is cultivated, and we see there some magazine tokuls, and whilst we are going S. by E., we perceive from the deck another large city in the Haba. Opposite, on the left shore, some tokuls, and a numerous herd of cows.
Eleven o’clock. From S.S.W. to S.E. and E.S.E. Half-past eleven. From E.N.E. to S.E. At twelve o’clock we stop near some tokuls on the right shore, to allow the crew to eat. The upper boundary of the Bodshos, who follow the before-mentioned Kikins, is in the neighbourhood, and the Karboràhs begin here, who also belong, with the first named tribe, to the nation of the Liènns. They dwell on both sides of the river, and live at war with each other. In a quarter of an hour we move on again, and go in short bends S. by E., E.S.E., S.E., and S.S.W. From the deck—four villages on the right, and three on the left. Half-past twelve o’clock. For a finger’s length to S.E., and then S and S.W.; a quarter before one to S. One o’clock, S.S.E. On the left two villages seen from the deck; on the right an island, covered with high grass. We must think no more of an island of Buko, for this gohr is said by the negroes to lead up to the mountains; and I had therefore heard quite correctly, at the very beginning, near the Kofon ofthe Elliàbs and Bohrs, where this very same thing was said plainly enough.
If we suppose that we shall again be connected with other arms of the Nile, for we were near such a one on the 6th inst., which I still hold to be that of the island of Buko, our return voyage, with the present waste of time, might become more difficult than is expected. We should be obliged to wait for the commencement of the hariff (rainy season), or to seek to regain King Làkono’s sympathy, which we have forfeited. The want of good bread-corn, already beginning to be felt, is the only thing that makes me fear the crew would not then be induced to follow further the White Stream beyond Bari.
The Abu Hashiff of Suliman Kashef proclaimed this morning a punishment of five hundred blows of the cudgel to any soldier or sailor who should be found to have delayed slaughtering his goats or sheep till to-morrow. They had collected together at different times, by purchase, theft, and robbery, several beasts, whom they were fattening with durra, to sell them in Khartùm.
Sand-banks also appear with the increase in width of the gohr, and render the navigation difficult. A quarter before two o’clock, a short tract, S.S.W. and W.S.W. Two o’clock, W. by S. A broad gohr flows here from our arm to S.E., and makes the land at our left a large island. We go, however, up the stream, and wind W.S.W., where we halt at the right shore. It is asserted very positively that we have navigated up and down that broad gohr flowing from here, and that therefore the continued ascending in the gohr, in which we are at this moment, and whichalso is becoming broader, has no object. It matters not, however, whether we are blind and do not see, or whether we see as we wish, so that we only go again downwards. Our river arm has suddenly here again a width of three hundred paces. This, as well as the depth of the water, speaks, certainly, in favour of the sailors’ opinion, that we are again on the main stream. The supreme council would fain, of course, assent to this opinion, but, to my great astonishment, I hear it is very much feared that we shall lose our way in another stream territory, and not come out at all by Khartùm. In order to prevent our returning by the very same road in our gohr, I propose to navigate up even as far as the mountains, to set ourselves right, or at least to find some memorials, such as a village or natives that we had seen previously. Our men, however, put no more confidence in what the latter say, and the crocodiles and hippopotami give us no intelligence. The blue-green broken corals which we had found already in the kingdom of Bari, are still the same here, and are preferred by far to those of a white colour.
At half-past two o’clock a north-east wind set in, which blew thewise councilasunder. A short tract to E.S.E. by the rope, and we sail then S.W. by S. in a flat arch to S.W. with two miles’ course. The shores are low and only three to four feet high. The green forest developes itself behind the slender, half-dried reeds. A quarter after three o’clock. From S.W. with a short bend to E.S.E.; at half-past three o’clock E. by N., and at four o’clock S.W. by W. The shores have been for a long time without cultivation, and only here and there we see some negroes,but yet there are two large villages, a quarter of an hour distant from the left shore.
It is scarcely four o’clock when Fadl tells me from the mast that he sees a high mountain W.S.W. I remark its peak also immediately from the deck. To judge by the outline of it, it appears to be the Nerkanjin, but I do not wish it, as I would rather see another beautiful mountain country. Whilst we are sailing S.S.W. a gohr issues on the right from our mysterious river to W.N.W., and makes, therefore, the land at our right, a large island. What a happy combination of natural canals, and what nations may be still drinking of this water! A quarter after four o’clock, S.E. by S. Right and left a village on the shores. There are low tokuls with clay walls and square doors: the roof consists of leaves of the dome palm. Their large baskets are also composed of the hearts of these trees. The village of the right shore has many open tokuls or cattle-stalls, and enters tolerably far into the land, where we observe several herds. Half-past four o’clock. From S.E., with the broad beautiful bend of the river to S. by E. At five o’clock we stop opposite a large village on the right shore, where many natives are collected. The thermometer, 20°, 28°, 30°, and 27° Reaumur.
10th February.—At the first sight of the morning dawn we heard the great wooden kettle-drum (nogàra) sounding opposite in the large village of Karborah, which instrument is beaten for amusement, as well as for driving out the cattle. The watch-houses of the cow-herdsmen stand in the centre of the enormous herd; the employment of these men may be taken in turns like that of the night-watch. The tribeof the Karboràhs, who, as I have said before, are a branch of the Liènns, and independent, is here likewise not entirely stippled on the forehead. Yesterday evening we traded with them, and I received many a pretty thing, principally of iron; for they dwell nearer the mountains, the source of iron wealth. Thus, I purchased ivory bracelets, with black streaks; bows of bamboo, with iron ends, and narrow bands of iron; ropes of bark, which, according to Mariàn, are from the muddus-tree, and the strongest; some hair-lines, said to be made from giraffes; thin iron chains, which they sling round their ribs; but I could neither see a kettle-drum nor an antelope-horn for blowing. It was with much trouble that I got a surprisingly beautiful little he-goat, with a head like a gazelle, although the other little goats have compressed noses. Selim Capitan was looked upon here also as our matta; and they wanted to take by force a large elephant’s tooth, which I had already bought, to present to him, not returning, however, my thick glass beads. Several Nile buffaloes are found in the river—a sign in the present season of the year, that agriculture is diligently attended to in the vicinity.
At eight o’clock, we set off from S. to S.W.; a quarter before nine o’clock, from S.E. by S. to S.S.E.; on the left a hamlet. A quarter after nine o’clock, S.E.; and we sail with the good east wind immediately again S. and S.S.W., and make three miles. Half-past nine o’clock, S.E. Cultivation at the right side, and a watch-house in the tobacco plantations. It seems as if tobacco were considered, in the opinion of our people, an article of luxury which may be taken wheneverthey like, without injustice. The tobacco plantations are sheltered here also with reed-mats erected on sticks three feet high, as a protection against the scorching solar rays. Immediately again S. Dancing, clapping, huzzaing, and young girls and women singing on the right shore.
A quarter before ten o’clock. From S.S.W. to S.E. The wind is very contrary, and drives us together to the right shore, where we make use of the rope for a short time. The merry girls and women are adorned with rings and necklaces; only the head is shaved, as in the other places, and they wear no rings in their ears. They have the sitting-skin already mentioned behind, and the narrow rahàt before. Moreover, most of them are armed with bows and arrows, probably for self-defence in the absence of the men. A quarter after ten o’clock. We sail again to S. We remark no villages, and yet there are several people on the right shore; the habitations seem, therefore, to be up the country in the Haba. It was not till after a quarter of an hour that a large village appeared: soon afterwards a second, the inhabitants of which have collected on the right shore. About eleven o’clock we double a little island on the right, and at the left a broad gohr, with a strong fall, flows in from S.E.; near it lies a still smaller island, like a grass-shield, bulging out in the middle, which we also leave on the left. Half-past eleven o’clock. From S. Libàhn, E.S.E. Herds right and left; shady roofs on four stakes. My men have bought a large wooden drum for me, and throw it down the shore; but several natives, who are against the sale, jump after it, and take it back by force; it seems to be the property ofthe community. Twelve o’clock. From E.S.E to S.S.W. In the background an island ascends.
The negroes wear frequently small animals’ skins on their heads, which hang down over the nape of their necks. The sun has as injurious an effect here on the former as on the vertebral columns of the latter. A quarter of an hour later to S., and our corpulent friend, Mount Nerkanjin, steps forward from S.W., blue and boldly, from the background over the above-named island, near which a gohr flows from W.S.W. At half-past twelve o’clock we lie to at the right shore, near the same, to let the men rest and eat. I could not tell what made me so hot, but the thermometer shews just 33°, although this morning it was only 20°, as usual. We only stop twenty minutes, and the poor crew must again to the rope, S.S.E. After one o’clock, we halt a second time near a little island, the narrowest arm of which we soon follow, on account of the greater depth. The current in this canal, which has fifty to sixty paces, is uncommonly strong. Two o’clock.—From S.S.E. to S.W. by S., and immediately to the left S. by E., and right S.S.W. A quarter after two o’clock.—A magnificent east wind: we shall make four miles to S. by W. and S.S.W.; but it slackens immediately after casting out the log, and only refreshing breezes breathe through the windows. In order to get from this place, we assist the hoisted sails by libàhn. A small island before us closes the narrow reach of our course, which our ship, until half-past two, nearly fills up. Three o’clock, S.E. by S, and on the right round a corner S.S.W., a few paces, then immediately left to S., where we stop a moment. “ElBah’r kebir!” our people are shouting on all sides; for they take the broad stream, wherein we are now sailing, for the White Nile itself. An arm separates from it to N.N.W.; the last land on the right is therefore also an island. We go by the left shore of the main stream, where it winds from S.S.W. to E.N.E. It is called here, as up the river, Kirboli, and both sides of it are inhabited by the Elliàbs; therefore there is no doubt that it is the main stream. The great island just mentioned is called Tui. We proceed at four o’clock to S.S.W., and Mount Nerkanjin remains in a south-westerly direction as previously. Half an hour later, we go from S.S.W. to S.; still no village, nor familiar tree appears; even the sailors begin again to doubt—for aught I care,—only forward; so that at last it must be resolved to wait for the rainy season. At half-past four o’clock S.S.E.; we halt on the sand, and no one appears to be sure of his point, least of all Arnaud, who cannot comprehend his own journal.
Every doubt is removed, after considerable questioning of the natives; we return a quarter before five o’clock from this ascent, and stop above the Kièhr, which we had come up from the White Nile, in order to examine it, even to its issue, and had taken hitherto for an independent mountain stream. At six o’clock we go to the neighbouring island, between the Nile and the gohr Kièhr. At sunset 29°; this will be a hot night.
11th February.—We remain near the large island of Tui, make a section of the Nile, and find the main stream below the bay, where it divides into three arms, a hundred and twenty-eight mètres broad. Itis called here Landofò; the Kokis inhabit its left shore. The Liénns possess the right, together with our island, and the shores of the gohrs, between which is the island of Tobo. Only a few of the latter tattoo the forehead; some, the shoulders, as far as the upper part of the arm; and others, the upper part of the back: some have also coloured themselves with ochre.
12th February—Observations are to be made also to-day, in order to start in the afternoon. I purchase for a few large glass beads, the firstfineelephant’s tooth, and I design it, being the largest of all, as a cabinet specimen for my country. Now, at last, it is evident to every one, that we are navigating back our old road. It is fortunate for me that I am able to set up continuously and write my journal, affected as I am with fever all the day after the hot nights. At half-past two o’clock we bear off, and reach at half-past four the end of the island of Tobo, near which we land at sunset by the left shore, having made four miles and a half with a strong current, and the stroke of the oar. Thermometer, in the morning, 20°; noon, 32°; evening, 30°.
13th February.—We are to set out half an hour after sunrise; in the meantime the men are slaughtering in haste some cows, which natives of uncommon size have brought us. We do not proceed, therefore, till seven o’clock, in a north-westerly direction. The river makes such short bends that we bound every moment against the shore, notwithstanding the very strong fall, and we tear off also a corner of the loose earth. This, as well as the carelessness in steering, causes the vessel to draw water continually. Nineo’clock. We stop at the left shore, near some dome-palms; the water is a little deeper here, as if a broad arm of the Nile, from E.S.E., joins with our narrow one, or we with it. Here also they bring us cotton for sale. Eleven o’clock. We go on with a favourable east wind. The tokuls for dwellings are the peristyles already described. At noon we see several hippopotami, some of them real monsters; these may remain here pretty constantly, being perhaps their hunting district, because the river is, on the whole, of great depth in this place.
We get on a sand-bank, close to which several crocodiles are encamped. The first of these beasts (in truth a fearful leader) attacks the men who are pushing the vessel off the sand-bank; then a soldier jumps overboard, armed only with a hatchet (Chadàn), boldly meets it, and really drives it back into the water. At this moment shots were fired by the soldiers on board the vessels at the whole congregation, but so badly aimed that not one remained dead on the spot; they all made a slow retreat into the water, and we found afterwards, in the moist sand on the shore, fifty-three of their eggs lying together all of a layer. The shells were a little broken, as if cracked, which may be caused by the sun and the humid sand. At first I thought, indeed, that these eggs might be near hatching; but I was persuaded of their freshness, when the crew eat them, roasted in ashes, with much goût. I tried also a little one, and found the usual taste of eggs, only it seemed to me particularly dry, and the white was more spongy and not compact. My servants had preserved eight of the eggs, which I put among thosefound in the neighbourhood of the crocodile shot by Suliman Kashef. I see that the latter are smaller, but thicker and rounder than the first-named. In general they do not exceed the size of a goose’s egg, and differ from birds’ eggs, especially by both ends being uniformly arched. When I compared these eggs subsequently, in Khartùm, with another one, found by me lying openly in the sand of the shore of the united stream, on our journey to Sennaar, I found the latter to be considerably larger than those of the White Stream. Without wishing to decide by this on the different species of crocodiles, I remark that the people here well know that there are such distinctions. At one o’clock, we halt at the right shore, near a pastoral village, but do not find the expected oxen. About five o’clock we push off again, and a Nile arm divides to N.E.; then comes another from S.E., and winds E.S.E. This is the arm, according to the general assertion, which we previously ascended.
14th February.—We at eight o’clock, navigate, the gohr, which is new to us, and goes from N. to N.W. Right and left dwell the Elliàbs; also on both shores of the gohr from whence we came. The Tshiérrs follow the Elliàbs; their boundary is determined by some dome-palms. The former made, yesterday, a marauding and murderous attack on the island-land enclosed by the gohr, and killed several men; they were, however, put to flight by the Elliàbs, who hastily collected, and were driven over the water, by which they left three dead. The Elliàbs mean now to make a great war against them, and would not, on that account, sell us any of the few spears which thesepoor pastoral people possess. The Kièhrs dwell, according to the inquiries made by Selim Capitan over the island, on the right shore of the Nile arm, which we ascend, the river being also called there Kièhr, as we have already mentioned. This circumstance may have led Selim wrong, for the Bohrs dwell there, as I ascertained with the assistance of my Jengàh. After a quarter of an hour, we again stop close to the left shore, where our river-arm, called here the Kir, flows to N.W. Hardly any people come to us, and the few we see are dirty, covered with ashes, and without ornaments. Their spears, small in number, are however kept polished, as the negroes generally clean carefully every thing pertaining to weapons, and iron decorations, except when they have coloured red with ochre their entire bodies, and then every thing they carry on them and with them is dyed with the same colour. We see clouds, foreboders of rain, almost uninterruptedly in the sky. Thermometer, at sunrise, 21°; from twelve to three o’clock not more than 30°, at sunset 29°. The Frenchmen add still more degrees, and see also more, in order to frighten their readers at such a country.
We go, after a short halt, to the right shore, where there is a large cattle village, with many sleeping-places and plastered bee-hives, or tokuls, their tops being lightly covered with straw or reeds: large herds there. We navigate, with the stern of the vessel foremost, although the captain is on deck, towards N.N.W., and shall halt immediately at the left shore near a little pastoral village. The red colour of the large heaps of ashes arises only from the burnt cows’ dung. 3 o’clock. Selim Capitan has just returnedafter a long voyage downwards. No water; therefore libàhn again, back into the gohr traversed previously. I procured to-day, from the herdsmen, four heavy breakers of beads or hassaeis of ebony, without ornament; and I see also here old woollen morions, of which I possess already one specimen. The Frenchmen still keep their windows hung with curtains or closed, so as not to be disturbed by the exterior world. At half-past four o’clock we are so fortunate as to enter our old gohr E.S.E., and come soon to the old encampment (I am again ill, as I was then,) turn the bow foremost, go N.W., and stop at sunset to N. at the left shore. I purchase a miserable little stool, which is rare here, from the Elliàbs.
15th February.—I have received, from Selim Capitan, a Bohr, as drogman, but he will do nothing at first, for he is too hungry. The river flows at half-past six, and up to seven o’clock, continually to N., with declinations to N.W., where a small island appears on the right. Again N.; on the left a large pastoral village of the name of Uadir, belonging to the Elliàbs, or as our Bohrs call them, Alliababe. The Bohrs possess the right shore, between whom and the Elliàbs eternal war prevails. N.N.W.: on the left a little island. Half-past seven o’clock. Over the dry straw of the shore on the left green copse is sprouting, the tree-tops of the neighbouring forest. Some drops of rain fell to-night on Feïzulla Capitan’s fiery brandy-nose, as if on a hot stone, while he was sleeping on deck; now, also, I feel some drops on my cool, pale nose. A fine prospect! for neither are our corn magazines well covered, nor our cabins air-tight above, thanks to Selim Capitan’s negligence. From N.N.E. immediatelyagain N.N.W. Eight o’clock. Right and left a forest, preceded by a narrow border of the shore. A little island on the right displays its green margin of reeds and creepers, as we see in all of them. We halt at the sandy right shore: the left is fertile soil, which is also the case on the right, though only for a short tract. Suliman Kashef’s mallem was buried here the preceding year, and Suliman visited now his grave under the trees. Opposite to us lies the tolerably large pastoral village of Kelagò, a portion of which only I draw, because it is like all the others. Thibaut also has applied himself to the ivory trade; he has just acquired three elephants’ teeth. Half-past nine o’clock. Away to N. and N.W.; at ten o’clock, a small pastoral village on the left, with ash-grey people. The forest extends at one side, and was refreshing to us, with its various tints of green. Here and there the sun breaks through the clouds, and casts picturesque gleams of light around; I can even enjoy it, for I feel myself again better after the very strong perspiration I had in the night.
The Bohrs have lines on their foreheads like the Elliàbs, not waved, however, like the latter, but straight, and also broader. The drogman has five, which appear to consist of double lines. A quarter after ten o’clock, N.N.W.; to the left an islet, with flowering creepers and reeds. We are welcomed with a song, for this is the usual custom with the tribes below Bari. One leads the choir, and the chorus joins continually with “jok, jok, are o jok;” but they have several refrains, among which their “abande jok” should not be forgotten. At eleven o’clock N., uninterruptedly, like our direction, with the former deviations to W.and E., the eternal enumeration of which would only be tiresome. I know enough of the previous ascent to be able to control my French companions. We stop at half-past twelve o’clock at the right shore by the Haba, and push off at half-past one again to N.N.W. The nation of the Bors, or Bohrs, is likewise poor, and nothing was to be purchased from them but some teeth, which Matta Selim Capitan appropriated to himself. The tribes hitherto seen have, on the whole, the same sort of weapons, although some arms are only similar; everywhere we see solitary spears, similar to those of Bari. It seems generally that all iron work is manufactured in that country, according to the taste of the different tribes, which is frequently indeed very bad, and sent away from thence; many, however, may have been introduced by intercourse with nations dwelling at their side. It is a cool north-west wind.
Thermometer, Sunrise 23° to 24°. Noon 27°. A quarter of an hour later an island five minutes long shews itself to the left in the middle of the river. We go N.N.W. At the foot of this island, another one, small and low, and, as it appeared to me at first, cultivated; but this, however, was not subsequently confirmed. Our course passes between yellow and light-green copse and other trees. Only here and there, there is still a dome-palm, quite small or young; yet they probably serve for the canoes here, for I observed several of these boats on the shore. Two o’clock. N.W. An island in the centre of the river which we leave at our right; then N.N.W. I have convinced myself, bynewant-hills, that these insects, which are somewhat larger here than the common ant, raise the earth from a depth where it is entirelywet, black, and without admixture of sand (such as on the level of the Nile, and in its neighbourhood), to make their buildings durable. On the other hand, I remember the fallen-down craters of the ant-hills among the Dinkas. It is now evident to me that they openly seek a protection against the weather by getting under the trees when there are any in their neighbourhood. The shores shew here already a little oxyde earth. Half past two o’clock. From N.N.E. to N., whereupon we halt at the right shore; for the Frenchmen want to go hunting.
16th February.—Thermometer yesterday evening, 24°; this morning, 19°. I made an excursion into the interesting forest: it lies upon slightly-elevated sandy bottom, on which the dome-palms do not grow so luxuriantly as in the country of the Tshièrrs, where I counted sixty lances on one leaf, whilst here there are only from forty-two to forty-six. I had preserved previously a vegetable, though not knowing the nature of its root: here the sailors grubbed up some of the same sort, and I saw tubers on them three feet and a quarter thick, running towards the upper part to a round form, but appearing to branch out below like enormous roots. Slender roots shoot from these main tubers, and on them rises an insignificant-looking vegetable, a foot high, covered at the top with small oval pale-green leaves, like those of the box-tree: the clusters of gossamer-flowers are of a yellowish colour. It is called “Irg-el-moje” (water-root)—in Nuban, “Otto;” is very full of juice, but of a nauseous, sweet taste, and is sold in Kahira. The suckers, properly speaking, must by virtue of the soil here, go to a great depth. Our liquorice tastes perhapsbetter, owing to its dryness. The large specimens were cut to pieces and torn, by reason of their softness, and in consequence of the greediness of our crew, who are like children, and yet laugh at the blacks. I took a specimen for myself. The beautiful red peas or vetches were also found. This vegetable was gathered; but no one at first knew the foliage, until I discovered at last a few slender tendrils of vetches, which were still green, and hung together with the dry peas in the pods, which were burst open. The blacks and men of Belled Sudàn make use of them as an ornament. They are small, hard, and rough, like beads, have a black eye, with a white and scarcely visible line, and are called hap-el-arùss (bride-grain). I have in my possession several of them. The anduràb or enderàb, a large tree with willow-like laciniated bark, is very common here: it has little green clusters of flowers on its lower branches, hanging in wild disorder; small round fruit, at present green, and willow-like, yet truncated leaves. Besides many other trees, such as talles, geïlids, and others, there is also a very large tree, now thoroughly leafless, deserving notice, from its short prickles, and little apples. Mariàn tells me that it has small round leaves, which make their appearance in the hariff, together with a white flower, and that it is called, in the Nuban language, dakuin. The fruit is not eaten, but gathered green, and strung round the necks of children, as a preventive against fever and other diseases.
We do not perceive grass anywhere, and therefore there are not any cattle or human beings; but there may be, perhaps, many wild beasts. Wildbuffaloes, as I had been assured previously in the upper Haba, and several of which animals Suliman Kashef and Capitan Mohammed Agà, the Arnaut, with the halberdiers of the former, pretend to have seen, are said to be frequently found here, and larger than those of Egypt. We are more inclined to believe this assertion, because it is well known to all our blacks that such beasts often appear among the Shilluks, Hassanïes, and elsewhere. This animal is called “Gamùs el galla.”
This morning, unfortunately, a soldier was stabbed by a Bohr with a spear, because, as I suspect, he was about to take it away from the latter according to the favourite Belesh manner, that is, without paying for it. We were magnanimous, and did not take any revenge on another Bohr, who was dragged to us instead of the proper criminal. So likewise I see thevoluntaryslaves of Selim Capitan chained together on the shore. At one o’clock we leave our beautiful landing-place. On the left a little village appears, then also a Haba; but it is too scantily furnished with trees, and soon retreats ashamed before the magnificent forest opposite. After some minutes a reed island divides the river. Then we proceed with W.N.W., our sails swollen by the east wind, and leave it to the right whilst we go more westerly, but soon again N. The burning of the reeds has an unpleasing effect to the eye, but the country rises new-born like a phœnix from the ashes. The island is fifteen minutes long. Half-past one o’clock. From N.E. by E. to W. by S. A hamlet in the Haba to the right of the shore, which is here high and precipitously disrupt, owing to the narrow pass,lies picturesquely. A quarter before two o’clock, N.W., on the right a little island. At two o’clock from N.E. to N.W. in the bend, but the Haba has disappeared. A quarter after two o’clock N.N.E.; on the right an island ten minutes long. At the end of it N.E.; on the left an old village containing tokuls with six to seven indentations on the roofs. The Haba, with several dhellèbs, has approached us on the avulsed high shore; it shews the genuine marks of the ancient or high shores. Half-past two o’clock, near the bend to N.W.; on the right many dhellèbs, which are not, however, of remarkable appearance, especially as the lower dry branches are upon them. A quarter before three o’clock. From the short E.N.E. tract to N.N.W. The forest on the right rises upon sandy deposits of downs, somewhat in the form of a hill. The sand was once deposited, perhaps, by an unusual inundation, on the underwood, and has remained there since that time. The shores are still intermixed with ochre here and there. A glistening long course before us towards N.N.W., such as we had not had for a long time, with the exception of the small inlets right and left; also a little island there. Thermometer 19° and 29° to 30°. Three o’clock. The Haba has retreated, yet N.N.W. On the left a small tokul village as before; immediately under it to the right E.N.E. and W.N.W., again a forest, the only break of the monotonous shores, islands, and villages. A quarter after three o’clock. From a short westerly direction to N.N.W. We halt at the right shore; perhaps Selim Capitan’s vessel draws water—yet, no; the French gentlemen had not come up.
A quarter after four o’clock: off again, and we go N.E. On the right side Bohrs, and on the left Elliàbs. Half-past four o’clock, N.W. The Haba on the right rises on downs; we see dome-palms also on it, but upon firm, dark earth, whilst the sand lies only on the surface. Moreover, these dome-palms are considerably higher than the dhellèbs. Violent storms cannot take place in these regions; I have never seen a single tree torn up by the wind. A quarter before five o’clock, from N.E. to N.N.W. The Haba remains and consoles us more than sufficiently for the arid shore, although green reeds and weeds struggle up here and there, and strike the roots deep into the vivifying water.
To N.N.W., a long row of tokuls appears in parade before us, without any other background than the horizon. On the right a narrow arm goes to E., and places the barren tokul-city on an island. In the bend from N.W. to W. The tokuls have, in part, the screen mentioned before, as the entrance; the sleeping-places in the neighbourhood are built of new reeds, and sixty tokuls without sleeping-places, and huts join them. This place, inhabited by Bohrs, is called Jemàhl. Immediately to the left also, by N.W, a tokul-village opposite; the lower walls, being proportionably high, are partly plastered with Nile slime. The knowledge of my drogman Joi is already at an end: he does not know the name of this long village, lying on the margin of the river like a crescent. Five o’clock from S.W. to N.E. by N. I remark the circumference of a red cone of ashes in the centre part of the broken shore: thereeds brush the vessel, and some of them fall on the plank before my window.
That custom of dung-fires for the encampment of the herds already mentioned, appears very ancient; for the earth deposited by the river lies from three to four feet high near them. About sunset we stop, on account of good neighbourhood, near a pastoral village on the right shore, where the river winds to N. The goats and sheep jump from the vessels with delight to the green grass on the shore. We hoped to get some oxen here, but not any were brought us.
THE BOHR “JOI.” — HIS TREATMENT ON BOARD THE VESSEL. — HIS ESCAPE. — WOMEN’S VILLAGE. — FELT CAPS. — SONGS OF THE BOHRS. — TUBERS SIMILAR TO POTATOES. — THE BUNDURIÀLS. — THE TUTUIS AND KÈKS. — AN ELEPHANT ATTACKED AND KILLED. — TASTE OF THE FLESH OF THIS ANIMAL. — CHEATING OF THE NATIVES IN BARTER. — WINTER TOKULS OR WOMENS’ HUTS. — MANNER OF MAKING A BURMA OR COOKING-VESSEL. — “BAUDA” AGAIN. — FEÏZULLA-CAPITAN’S INDUSTRY IN SEWING. — THE KÈKS LIVE BY FISHING. — DESCRIPTION OF THE WOMEN. — SERIOUS ACCIDENT TO THE VESSEL. — OSTRICHES AND APES. — FOGS ON THE WHITE STREAM. — WATCH-TOWERS. — SALE SHOOTS A GIGANTIC CRANE. — IS PUNISHED. — THE NUÈHRS.
17th February.—The thermometer, hanging in the window, which is always open, had, at about half-past eight o’clock yesterday evening, 25½°, and this morning before sunrise 23°. The sky is cloudy, and it seems as if it would rain; the east wind abates the sultriness a little. At seven o’clock, from N.E. to E. by S., and immediately northerly. A quarter after seven o’clock, W.N.W., N.E., and then in a bend to N.N.W. The Bohr Joi was extremely happy yesterday evening; he had eaten so much that he could not move: I had repaired the broken bowl of his pipe, and he smoked my tobacco and said, “affat” (good). Feïzulla Capitan has given him the usual slave name of “Bachit,” by which he is called and teazed on all sides. The Dinkaui Bachit, a young soldier, who might speak to him, will havenothing to do with him; therefore the fellow finds himself deserted, and cannot answer by words the crew, who are always laughing at him. Even yesterday he hung down his head the whole day, and looked on the ground, and I could not help feeling pity for the otherwise free negro, separated as he was from his friends. He had a handsome head, something of a Roman nose, large eyes, a mouth only protruding a little, and all his teeth, except the four lower ones; in other respects he was thin, seemed in grief, and almost starved to death. This might have induced him perhaps to come on board Selim Capitan’s vessel, who bound a piece of linen as an ornament round his neck, but retained him as a slave. Awakened from my sleep, I heard him speaking and singing, looking with passionate affection towards both shores. I think the poor creature is taking leave of his country, or he is home-sick, and owing to that cannot sleep. At midnight he woke me a second time, and screamed Bohr, Bohr, Bohr! and then, Elliàb, Elliàb, Elliàb! adding clearly thereto individual names, whilst he turned himself to those regions. He sang loud, melancholy songs, and what appeared from the melody to be the camel-song of the Bisharis, and then shouted wildly and loudly. They tried to hold him fast, but he was as strong as a lion. Subsequently he complained of pains in the body, which perhaps arose from his dreadful gluttony, and he gazed continually at the shores as if assistance would come to him from thence. I suppose that he wants to escape, and therefore I made him take off the linen decoration, as it might be an obstacle to him in so doing; but I got him first to rub his stomach with it,during which operation he roared and groaned like a wild beast, and stretched himself with both hands on the lowered mast. Scarcely, however, was he relieved from the attack of colic than he made a tremendous spring over the heads of the crew right away into the water. It was with difficulty that I prevented them from firing at him. Feïzulla Capitan did not say a word, but put on a melancholy face, because he feared possibly Selim Capitan’s reproaches.
Eight o’clock, N.N.W., and after fifteen minutes with a short course to S.S.E. and again N.W. and N.N.W. On the right, a village, with numerous light-coloured cows and open sleeping-places; between them, little huts for women and children, formed like a basket, plastered with slime, and covered at the top with entangled couch-grass, which may serve as a covering against the weather, or as a chimney. The north wind, which has set in, is contrary to us, and we are, at a quarter before nine o’clock, when we are going to the north, scarcely five minutes from the last villages. We continually run aground, and spin like a top from one shore to the other, on account of the north wind, which is blowing stronger and stronger: the ashes of the burnt grass are carried up by the wind, and the air all around is obscured by them. The river winds from N. towards N.E., and at the corner on the right is a large pastoral village, with several lowing herds; on the left, a tokul village, in which, on account of the north and east wind, we do not see any of the oval doors turned towards the Nile. A number of ugly and dirty women with leather aprons, also boys, but no girls, stand collected there. Above this women’s village a gohrdisembogues from S.W. by S., and this is the same arm of the Nile that Selim Capitan navigated for three hours, above, near the Elliàbs, and found unfit for our voyage. We stop at half-past nine o’clock at the lower end of the long pastoral village extending along the shore. An old man seizes the rope by which we have lately been pulled, and makes us understand that he is going to kill some cows for us. We move on, however, for they did not come before eleven o’clock, to N.W.
The village is called Dirèk, also Aderèk. Three natives were on board our vessel: their felt morions were covered over and over with sea-shells (Cypræa moneta), and the inside so entwined with their hair, that they could not take them off without cutting off the hair itself; therefore we could not persuade any of them to sell us their caps. At last one man asked a large shellful of glass beads for it. Another fellow was brought to Selim Capitan, but he would not resign his morion for any price, and said that he purchased it for eight cows, and that it came from the very distant country of Kekèss. Hence it follows that there is a connection here with the sea. Eleven o’clock; a little to N.E. by N. A quarter after eleven o’clock, with a short bend to N.W. by W., and N. by E. In the angle of this second sharp bend, on the left a small pastoral village; then N.E. The reddish-colour of the ashes seems to arise from the natural admixture of the clayey soil, as I convinced myself to-day, when the men were piling together the dung of the herds. Half-past eleven o’clock. From N.E. to N.W.: then a Nile arm shews itself in the bend to E., and flows southerly.The smell of fire from the black and scorched shores is very unpleasant, on which, however, there are still green spots and tracts. The disrupt and higher old shore stretches to the right, in a straight line to N.N.E., whilst the present shore goes westerly. A quarter before twelve. In the bend from W.N.W. to N.E. by N.: on the left shore a pastoral village, with sleeping-places, or inclined reed-walls, turned towards W., and open at the top; small basket-huts and regular tokuls join, having roofs indented, or rather in the form of steps.
I cannot yet get the negro Joï out of my mind, with his melancholy melodies and Swiss home-sickness, which lasted for hours. The sudden, wild outbreak of the passionate feelings of man in a state of nature—the shouting of names, and the continual repetition of them dying away with the voice—never, never have I heard a more affectingdecrescendo! Then again his rude speech and cries; and then the songs, which I took for pastoral songs, and which in part have thevery same melody, with their softly humming and tremulous key-note as the camel-songs of the Bisharis, heard throughout the night in the desert, only that the former expressed the higher notes more passionately, where his voice often broke, but always returned again to the key-note. The calling individual names, by which his heart turned even to his enemies the Elliàbs, bringing to mind his misfortune in the dark cloudy night—every thing is still present before me. I offered him glass beads; staccato and hoarse notes alone were his answer. The Swiss style of singing is known in the interior of Africa, as I previously ascertained from hearing the young soldiers.
Twelve o’clock. From N.N.W. and N.W. by W. to N.W. The shores are no longer mixed with sand, although there are lower imbenchings and aggregations: on the left, a pastoral village, where we see, as usual, a crowd of negroes. At half-past twelve o’clock, N.N.W.: we halt at the right shore. They bring me small tubers, similar to potatoes, and eaten like them; opposite to us a pastoral village. We bear off again at a quarter before one o’clock. At one, from N. to N.W.: on the left, a village with old tokuls. A very long watercourse lies before us, and at the end of it, at two o’clock, a pastoral village, in the form of an arch, and extending to some distance. We double a short corner on the right, N.E. by N., near which we are regularly fixed, owing to the strong north wind, which blows the spray like drizzling rain. Thermometer, before sunrise 23°; noon 28°; now, at two o’clock, 25°. At four o’clock we leave this promontory, the wind having died away, and go N.N.E. and N. At a quarter before five the wind gets up afresh; we go N.W. to the right shore, where we shall remain perhaps the night. Thermometer, at four o’clock 25°, sunset 24°, at eight o’clock 22°.
18th February.Yesterday evening lightning, which seemed to proceed from distant regions. We might perhaps have heard the thunder, had not the everlasting noise, which, day and night, stuns us in the vessels, prevented us. The sky is quite clouded over, yet the sun penetrates through. I had scarcely stood ten minutes at the door of our cabin, before my clothes were quite damp, although no mist had visibly fallen. We find here many of the before-mentioned potato-like tubers, the foliage and tendrils being like those ofstrawberries, but the leaf is not so rough. The tubers, which are yet small, are level with the ground, like those I had seen before, and I planted some specimens in sand. A quarter after six o’clock we bore off to N.E. to the great vexation of the crew, who were obliged to leave unslaughtered on the shore three beautiful oxen; then with a short bend to S.E. by W. and immediately W.N.W. On the left a pastoral village with lowing cattle, and before us a forest, veiled by a blue vapour, moves from the right side into the monotonous landscape. In the bend again to N.E. and N.N.E., where on the left is a pastoral village, but without herds.
I cannot imagine when the natives drive their cattle in and out; for I have at all times of the day seen the beasts tied up in the open air, near the villages, and I have never noticed any fodder. Our presence and their curiosity makes them, perhaps, careless in attending to them.
Half-past seven o’clock. N.N.W., and with a short course to E.N.E, where, on the left, a pastoral village lies behind the shore; then we turn sharply to N.W., where, on the left, another pastoral village appears; at this we wind to N.N.W. We have a gentle south-east wind, and are afraid of rain.
Eight o’clock. From N.N.W. to N.W., by N. Some tokuls, with more elevated tops, shew themselves on the right side, where the river immediately goes to the right; and at the same moment a row of tokuls of similar construction is discovered on the left, stretching in a falcated form along the shore. The old tokuls have grooved roofs, reed-walls from which the clay has fallen, oval doors, and some of themwith miserable reed-porches, and no sleeping-places. A pastoral village follows, belonging, perhaps, to this winter or women’s village. The Elliàbs inhabit both these villages; but few of them shew themselves, and are calledWièn.
Half-past eight o’clock. From N.N.W. to N.N.E., and N. by W. Below, a large village opens before us, which the vessels a-head leave to the left. The island, which is merely young grass, floating on the river, only rises gently above the stream. A quarter before nine o’clock. At some distance from the right shore we see from the deck a large pastoral village. Nine o’clock. W.N.W. The forest previously remarked has not approached nearer to us. A quarter after nine, from S.S.W. to S.E., where the wind, for a short space, is contrary to us; then, on the right, to S.S.W.; but first we see two villages lying somewhat up the country on the right side. We go E.N.E.