The Horses Bogged at Lake Barlee.
The Horses Bogged at Lake Barlee.
The Horses Bogged at Lake Barlee.
22nd.Went over to the lake with all the horses, and brought the loads to the camp. Started Tommy and Jemmy in search of the natives. After returning to camp, overhauled all the pack bags, and dried and re-packed them, ready for a fresh start on Monday morning. Also washed the mud off the horses, who appear to be doing well, and fast recovering from the effects of the bogging. Tommy and Jemmy returned this evening, having seen some natives after dark, but were unable to get near them.
23rd (Sunday).Went with Tommy Windich and Jemmy on foot to follow the tracks of the natives seen yesterday. Seeing no chance of overtaking them, as they appeared to be making off at a great rate, and were twelve hours in advance of us, we returned, after following the tracks for five miles across the lake. The camp was reached at 2 p.m., after we had walked about fifteen miles. This spot, which I named Retreat Rock, I found to be in south latitude 29 degrees 3 minutes 51 seconds by meridian altitudes of Regulus and Mars, and in about longitude 119 degrees 16 minutes east.
24th.Some of the horses having strayed, we were not able to start till 10.40 a.m., when we steered in about East-North-East direction for sixteen miles, and camped on a piece of rising ground, with very little water. From this bivouac, a very remarkable peaked hill, called Woolling, which I named Mount Elain, bore North 162 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, distant about twenty miles; and two conspicuous hills, close together, called Yeadie and Bulgar, bore North 105 degrees East magnetic. Dense thickets, acacia, cypress, etc., sandy soil with spinifex, most of the way.
25th.Steering for Yeadie and Bulgar for five miles, and came to some granite rocks with water, where we gave drink to our thirsty horses. Leaving the party to follow, I went with Jemmy in advance to look for water, which we found in a rough stream-bed, and brought the party to it. This afternoon went with Jemmy to the summit of Yeadie, and took a round of angles. The local attraction was so great on this hill that the prismatic compass was useless; luckily I had my pocket sextant with me, by which I obtained the included angles. From the summit of Yeadie the view was very extensive. The great lake that we had already followed for forty miles ran as far as the eye could reach to the east and south, studded with numerous islands; low ranges of hills in every direction. This immense lake I named Lake Barlee, after the Colonial Secretary of Western Australia. By meridian altitudes of Mars and Regulus, camp was in south latitude, 28 degrees 58 minutes 50 seconds, and in longitude about 119 degrees 39 minutes East, Yeadie bearing North 172 degrees East magnetic, distant about two miles.
26th.Moving in about a northerly direction for nine miles, we turned to the eastward, rounded a branch of Lake Barlee, towards some loose granite rocks, where we encamped, but could not find water. Sent Jemmy over to another rock one mile southward, where he found a fine permanent water-hole, to which we took the horses after dark. Distance travelled to-day about eighteen miles. Tommy shot a fine emu, which was a great treat to us all.
27th.Shifted the party over to the water found last night, one mile distant, and camped. Found camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes, and in longitude about 119 degrees 50 minutes east. Marked a small tree with the letter F. close to the waterhole.
28th.Some of the horses having strayed, we did not start till 9.30 a.m., when I went in advance of the party, in company with Jemmy, to look for water. After following Lake Barlee for nine miles, it turned to the southward. Then scouring the country in every direction for water without success, we reached the tracks of the party (who had passed on), and, following them over plains of spinifex and stunted gums, found them encamped with plenty of water, which they had luckily discovered at sundown. Distance travelled eighteen miles about true east. By meridian altitude of Bootes (Arcturus), this bivouac is in south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes 34 seconds, and longitude about 120 degrees 9 minutes east.
29th.Started in company with Tommy and Jemmy to explore the country eastward, leaving the party to take off the horses' shoes for their relief. Travelling in an easterly direction for eight miles over sandy soil and spinifex, we reached the summit of a high hill, supposed by Jemmy to be Noondie, which I named Mount Alexander, from which we saw another range about eleven miles distant, bearing North 82 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, to which we proceeded, and found water in some granite rocks. None of these hills, however, agreed with the description given by Jemmy; and the expectations were at an end that he would succeed in showing us the spot where the remains of white men were. Returning to camp, seven miles, bivouacked on a grassy flat, without water or food.
30th. (Sunday).Started at dawn, with the saddles and rugs on our backs, in search of the horses, and, after travelling a mile and a half on their tracks, found them at a small water-hole passed by us yesterday. Saddled up and reached camp at eleven o'clock, and found all well. Yesterday morning the dogs caught an emu, off which we made a first-rate breakfast, not having had anything to eat since the previous morning. Barometer 28.44.
31st.Started this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy in search of natives, leaving Mr. Hamersley in charge, with instructions to proceed eastward about twenty-two miles, to where I found water on the 29th. After starting the party we steered in a South-South-East direction towards a high range of hills, which I named Mount Bivou, about twelve miles distant. To the westward of the range we found a fine water-hole in some granite rocks, where we rested an hour to allow the horses to feed. Continuing in about the same direction for five miles, we ascended a rough range to have a view of the country. We descried a large fire to the westward seven miles, towards which we proceeded, in the hope of finding natives. When we were within half a mile we could hear hallooing and shouting; and it was very evident there was a great muster (certainly not less than 100) of natives, corrobberying, making a dreadful noise, the dogs joining in chorus. Having stripped Jemmy, I told him to go and speak to them, which he started to do in very good spirits. He soon beckoned us to follow, and asked us to keep close behind him, as the natives were what he called like "sheep flock." He appeared very nervous, trembling from head to foot. After reassuring him, we tied up our horses, and advanced through the thicket towards them. When getting in sight of them, Jemmy commenced cooeying, and was answered by the natives; after which he advanced and showed himself. As soon as they saw him, the bloodthirsty villains rushed at him, and threw three dowaks, which he luckily dodged; when fortunately one of the natives recognized him (having seen Jemmy at Mount Elain when a little boy), and called to the others not to harm him. Seeing Jemmy running towards the horses, Mr. Monger and I thought it was time to retire, as we saw the mistake we had made in leaving the horses. The thickets being dense, we had difficulty in finding the horses quickly. On reaching them Mr. Monger found he had dropped his revolver. Had not Jemmy been recognized, I feel sure we should have had bloodshed, and might probably have lost our lives. Mounting the horses, we advanced towards the natives, and had a short talk with one of them who came to speak to Jemmy. There was a guard of eight natives, with spears stripped, and dowaks in readiness, should we prove hostile. Although I assured them we were friends, and asked them to put down their spears, they took no notice of what was said. One native told us not to sleep here, but to go away and not return, or the natives would kill and eat us, after which he turned away as if he did not wish to have any more words with us. It being now dark, we took his advice, and retreated towards where we had dinner, five miles off. Camped in a thicket without water, and tied up our horses, keeping watch all night.
June 1st.At daybreak saddled up our tired and hungry horses, and proceeded to where we had dinner yesterday. After giving our horses two hours' grazing and having had breakfast, started back towards the natives' camp, as I wished to question them respecting the reported death of white men in this neighbourhood. When we approached the natives' bivouac, we saw where they had been following up our tracks in every direction, and Jemmy found the place where they had picked up Mr. Monger's revolver. While Jemmy was away looking for the revolver, Mr. Monger saw two natives following up our trail, and within fifty yards of us. We both wheeled round and had our guns in readiness, but soon perceived they were the same as were friendly last night, and I called Jemmy to speak to them. At my request they went and brought us Mr. Monger's revolver, which they stated they had been warming near the fire! Fortunately for them, it did not go off. On being questioned by Jemmy, they stated that the place Noondie (where Jemmy stated he heard the remains of the white men were) was two days' journey North-West from this spot; that there were the remains of horses, but not of men, and they volunteered to show us the spot. Being now 1 p.m., and having to meet the party to-night at a place about twenty-three miles distant, we started at once, leaving the natives, who did not wish to move to-day, but who apparently sincerely promised to come to our camp to-morrow. Reached camp at the spot arranged an hour after dark, and found all well.
2nd.Rested our horses at the place, which I called the Two-spring Bivouac, there being two small springs here. Re-stuffed with grass all the pack-saddles, as some of the horses were getting sore backs. By meridian altitude of sun found the camp to be in south latitude 28 degrees 51 minutes 45 seconds, and in longitude about 120 degrees 30 minutes east. I was very much annoyed at the natives not putting in appearance as promised.
3rd.No sign of the natives this morning. I decided to steer in the direction pointed out by them, and travelling about North 306 degrees East magnetic for fifteen miles, we found water in some granite rocks, with very good feed around, cypress and acacia thickets, light red loamy soil, destitute of grass.
4th.Steering in about West-North-West direction for sixteen miles, the first six of which were studded with granite rocks, good feed around them, after which through poor sandy country, covered with spinifex. We bivouacked in a thicket without water or feed, and tied up our horses. Saw a natives' fire, but was unable to get near it. Barometer 28.52; fine.
5th.After travelling in a northerly direction for seven miles without finding water, and without seeing any hill answering the description given by Jemmy, I struck about east for sixteen miles, and camped at a fine spring near some granite rocks, with splendid feed around them. This is the first good spring since leaving the settled districts. At 8 p.m., barometer 28.44; thermometer 72 degrees.
6th (Sunday).Rested at camp, which I called Depot Spring, and found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 36 minutes 34 seconds by meridian altitude of sun. Barometer at 8 a.m. 28.38; thermometer 57 degrees; at 5 p.m., barometer 28.30; thermometer 77 degrees.
7th.Started this morning, in company with Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy, to explore the country to the northward, where we had seen a peaked hill. Went in that direction about thirty miles, the first twenty of which were studded with granite rocks, with fine feed around them. At twenty-seven miles crossed a salt marsh, about one mile wide, and, continuing three miles farther, reached the peaked hill, which was composed of granite, capped with immense blocks, giving it a very remarkable appearance. Bivouacked on North-West side of hill, at a small water-hole.
8th.This morning, after saddling up, we ascended the conical hill (which I named Mount Holmes) and took a round of angles from it, after which we struck North 81 degrees East magnetic to a granite range about eight miles distant, where we found two fine water-holes, and rested an hour. Thence in about a South-South-East direction for twelve miles, we bivouacked without water on a small patch of feed. The day was very fine, and the rainy appearance cleared off, much to our grief.
9th.At daybreak, no sound of horses' bells, and anticipating they had made off in search of water, we put our saddles, guns, and rugs on our backs, and started on their tracks. After following the tracks for nine miles we came to a water-hole and had breakfast; afterwards we succeeded in overtaking the horses in a grassy flat, about thirteen miles South-South-East from our last night's bivouac. The last few miles our troublesome load became very awkward and heavy. One of the horses had broken his hobbles. Continuing in about the same course for six miles, we struck about West-South-West for ten miles, and reached camp, where we found all well, at 6 p.m. Barometer 28.64; cloudy.
10th.Started again this morning in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to explore the country to the eastward, leaving Mr. Hamersley to shift the party to our bivouac of the 2nd instant, about twenty-four miles South-East from here. After travelling East-North-East for six miles, we came upon a very old native at a fire in the thicket. Jemmy could not understand what he said, but he thought that he meant that there were a number of armed natives about. He was very frightened, howled the whole time we stayed, and was apparently in his dotage, hardly able to walk. Continuing our journey, we camped at a small water-hole in some granite rocks, with good feed around them, about sixteen miles East-North-East from Depot Spring.
11th.Started at sunrise, and steered about East-North-East over lightly-grassed country; and on our way came upon a middle-aged native with two small children. We were within twenty yards of him before he saw us. He appeared very frightened, and trembled from head to foot. Jemmy could understand this native a little, and ascertained from him that he had never seen or heard anything about white men or horses being killed or having died in this vicinity. Did not know any place named Noondie; but pointed to water a little way eastward. Jemmy then asked him all manner of questions, but to no purpose, as he stated he knew nothing about the business. Jemmy asked him if he had ever heard of any horses being eaten; he answered No, but that the natives had just eaten his brother! I have no doubt parents have great difficulty in saving their children from these inhuman wretches. Then the old man tried to cry, and ended by saying he had two women at his hut, a little westward. After travelling ten miles from our last night's bivouac, and not finding water, we struck North 204 degrees East magnetic for about twenty miles, through scrubby thickets, without feed, and arrived at the bivouac of the 2nd, where the party will meet us to-morrow. Reached the water at the Two Springs half an hour after dark.
12th.Explored the country around camp in search of a better place for feed, but could not find water. Mr. Hamersley and party joined us at 4 p.m., all well. Tommy shot a red kangaroo, which was a great treat, after living so long on salt pork. Barometer 28.60; fine; cold wind from the east all day.
13th (Sunday).Rested at camp. Intend taking a trip to the southward to-morrow. Barometer 28.76.
14th.Started this morning, in company with Morgan and Jemmy, to examine the country to the southward. Travelled in a south-westerly direction for twenty-five miles, and camped at the spot where we had the encounter with the natives on May 31. We found they had left, and there was no water on the rocks. Luckily our horses had water six miles back.
15th.Saddled up at daybreak, and steered about South-East towards a high range of hills about ten miles distant. I named it Mount Ida, and from the summit I took a round of angles with my pocket sextant. On all the hills in this neighbourhood the local attraction is so great that the prismatic compass is useless. Found a fine spring of water on south side of Mount Ida, in an almost inaccessible spot. After giving the horses two hours' rest we continued our journey North 154 degrees East magnetic for eight miles to a granite range, where, after a diligent search, I found two water-holes, and bivouacked, with good feed around the rocks.
16th.Saddled up at sunrise, and steered to some trap ranges, North 124 degrees East, about seven miles distant, from which I could see an immense lake running as far as the eye could reach to the eastward, and westerly and northerly, most probably joining Lake Barlee. Not being able to proceed farther southward, on account of the lake, I steered in a northerly direction for twenty miles, but, discovering neither feed nor water, bivouacked in a thicket, and tied up our horses.
17th.At dawn, found that my horse Sugar, after breaking his bridle, had made off towards our bivouac of the 15th. Placing my saddle on Jemmy's horse, we followed on the track for six miles, when we came to a few granite rocks, with a little water on them, from rain that had fallen during the night. At this place Morgan was left with the horses and our guns, while Jemmy and I followed on Sugar's tracks, taking only a revolver with us. After travelling on the tracks for two miles we overtook him, and with a little trouble managed to catch him. On reaching the spot where we had left Morgan, we found him with the three double-barrelled guns on full cock, together with his revolver, in readiness. On being asked what was the matter, he stated "Nothing," but he was ready to give the natives what he called "a warm attachment." After having breakfast we steered North-North-West for about twenty miles, and reached camp at 5 p.m., and found all well. Rained a little during the day.
18th.Having thus made an exhaustive search in the neighbourhood where Jemmy expected to find the remains of the white men, by travelling over nearly the whole of the country between latitude 28 degrees and 29 degrees 30 minutes south, and longitude 120 and 121 degrees east, I determined to make the most of the little time at my disposal, and carry out the instruction that I was to attempt to proceed as far eastward as possible. Accordingly, after collecting the horses, steered about East-North-East for nine miles, to a low quartz range, over tolerably grassy country, not very dense. From this range I saw some bare granite rocks bearing about North 120 degrees East magnetic. For these we steered, and luckily, after travelling six miles over a plain, which in severe winters must be nearly all under water, found a fine pool in a clay-pan, and bivouacked. There was a little rain during the night.
19th.The horses having strayed back on our tracks, we did not start till 12 o'clock, when the journey was continued towards the granite range seen yesterday, about ten miles distant. We camped on west side of North, with plenty of water from the recent rain on the granite rocks, but with very little feed. At five miles crossed a dry stream-bed, eighteen yards wide, sandy bottom; thickets most of the way, but not very dense.
20th (Sunday).Rested at camp. Jemmy shot four rock kangaroos to-day. Took a round of angles from a bare granite hill, North 50 degrees East magnetic, about one mile from camp, which I found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and a Pegasi (Markab); and in longitude about 120 degrees 55 minutes East. Saw a high hill bearing North 81 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, about twenty-five miles distant, which I named Mount Lenora; and another bearing North 67 degrees East magnetic, about twenty-five miles distant, which I named Mount George. Intend proceeding to Mount Lenora to-morrow. Marked a small tree (ordnance-tree of Mr. Austin) with the letter F at our bivouac.
21st.Steering towards Mount Lenora over some tolerably grassy country, we reached it at sundown, and, not finding any water, camped without it, with very good feed. In south latitude 28 degrees 53 minutes by meridian altitudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about 121 degrees 20 minutes East.
22nd.After making every search in the vicinity of the bivouac for water, and the country ahead appearing very unpromising, I decided to return ten miles on our tracks, where we found a fine pool of water in a brook, and camped. Tomorrow I intend taking a flying trip in search of water.
23rd.Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, to explore the country to the eastward for water, etc. After travelling three miles towards Mount Lenora, saw a natives' fire bearing North-East about three miles, to which we proceeded, and surprised a middle-aged native. Upon seeing us he ran off shouting, and decamped with a number of his companions, who were at a little distance. The horse I was riding--Turpin, an old police-horse from Northam--evidently well understood running down a native, and between us we soon overtook our black friend and brought him to bay. We could not make him understand anything we said; but, after looking at us a moment, and seeing no chance of escape, he dropped his two dowaks and wooden dish, and climbed up a small tree about twelve feet high. After securing the dowaks, I tried every means to tempt him to come down; fired my revolver twice, and showed him the effect it had on the tree. The report had the effect also of frightening all the natives that were about, who no doubt made off at a great rate. I began to climb up after him, but he pelted me with sticks, and was more like a wild beast than a man. After discovering we did not like to be hit, he became bolder and threw more sticks at us, and one hitting Tommy, he was nearly shooting him, when I called on him to desist. I then offered him a piece of damper, showing him it was good by eating some myself and giving some to Tommy. He would not look at it, and when I threw it close to him he dashed it away as if it was poison. The only way of getting him down from the tree was force, and, after considering a moment, I decided to leave him where he was. We accordingly laid down his dowaks and dish, and bade him farewell in as kindly a manner as possible. Continuing our course, passing Mount Lenora, we steered North 81 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic to a table hill, which I ascended and took a round of angles. This hill I named Mount Malcolm, after my friend and companion, Mr. M. Hamersley. Saw a remarkable peak bearing North 65 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty miles, towards which we proceeded, and at six miles came upon a small gully, in which we found a little water, and bivouacked.
24th.Started early this morning, and steered East-North-East for six miles to some low stony ranges, lightly grassed; thence North 61 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic to the remarkable peak, which I named Mount Flora, distant about nine miles from the stony ranges, ascending which, I obtained a round of bearings and angles. Saw a high range bearing about North 106 degrees 15 minutes East magnetic, apparently about sixteen miles distant, towards which we travelled till after dark, searching for feed and water on our way without success, and there bivouacked and tied up our horses.
25th.Saddled at dawn, and proceeded to the range, which bore North 93 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic, about five miles distant, on reaching which I ascended the highest peak, and named it Mount Margaret. Took a round of angles and bearings. From the summit of Mount Margaret the view was very extensive. There was a large dry salt lake to the southward, as far as the eye could reach, while to the east and north-east there were low trap ranges, lightly grassed. A high table hill bore North 73 degrees East magnetic.
Being now about sixty miles from camp, and not having had any water since yesterday morning, I decided to return. Steering about west for eight miles, we struck a brook trending south-east, in which we found a small quantity of water in a clay-pan. After resting an hour, in order to make a damper and give the horses a little of the feed, which only grew sparingly on the banks of the brook, we continued our journey towards camp. Passing Mount Flora, we camped about eight miles farther onwards, near a small patch of feed, without water, about a mile north of our outward track.
26th.Started at dawn, and reached our bivouac of the 23rd. There obtained just sufficient water for ourselves and the horses. Continuing, we found a fine pool of rain-water in a brook a mile and a half west of Mount Malcolm, and, reaching camp an hour after dark, found all well. On our way Tommy Windich shot a red kangaroo, which we carried to camp.
27th (Sunday).Rested at camp. Found it to be in south latitude 28 degrees 55 minutes by meridian altitudes of sun, Aquilae (Altair), and Lyra, and in longitude about 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Although we had great difficulty in procuring water in our last trip, I was reluctant to return without making another effort, especially as, from the appearance of the country east of the farthest point, I had hope of a change, and therefore concluded to shift the party to the water found yesterday near Mount Malcolm, and make another attempt to proceed farther east.
28th.Steering about North 81 degrees East magnetic, over lightly-grassed country, thinly wooded for sixteen miles, we camped a mile and a half west of Mount Malcolm, in south latitude 28 degrees 51 minutes 19 seconds by meridian altitude of Aquilae (Altair), and in longitude about 121 degrees 27 minutes East.
29th.Started this morning, in company with Tommy Windich, with seven days' provisions, leaving instructions for Mr. Monger to shift the party back to our last camp, where the feed was much better, in latitude 28 degrees 55 minutes South, and longitude 121 degrees 10 minutes East. Travelled about east for thirty miles towards Mount Margaret, our farthest point last trip. We camped in a thicket, without water, on a small patch of feed.
30th.Saddled up at dawn, and proceeded towards Mount Margaret, obtaining a little water at the spot where we found water on our former trip. Continuing, we came to a fine pool of water in a brook, and rested an hour, Mount Margaret being north-east about two miles and a half. Hardly any feed near the water. Resuming, we passed Mount Margaret and started towards the table hill seen previously, bearing North 73 degrees East magnetic, apparently about eighteen miles distant, over a series of dry salt marshes, with sandy country and spinifex intervening. After travelling eight miles, we bivouacked without water on a small patch of feed. With the pocket sextant I found this spot to be in south latitude about 28 degrees 50 minutes, and longitude about 122 degrees 11 minutes East.
July 1st.After journeying towards the table hill seen yesterday for six miles, crossed a large brook heading south-west, in which we found a small pool of rain-water, and rested an hour to breakfast. Resuming for about six miles, reached the table hill, which I ascended and took a round of angles. I have since named this hill Mount Weld, being the farthest hill seen eastward by us. Continuing about North 77 degrees East magnetic for fifteen miles, through dense thickets--no grass except spinifex--we bivouacked, without water or feed, and then tied up our horses. I found this spot to be in south latitude 28 degrees 41 minutes by meridian altitude of Bootes (Arcturus), and in longitude about 122 degrees 37 minutes East.
2nd.Started at dawn, and steered about east, searching on our way for water, which our horses and ourselves were beginning to want much. At six miles we found a small hole in some rocks, apparently empty, but on sounding with a stick I found it to contain a little water. The mouth of the hole being too small to admit a pannican, and having used my hat with very little success, I at last thought of my gum-bucket, with which we procured about two quarts of something between mud and water, which, after straining through my pocket-handkerchief, we pronounced first-rate. Continuing for six miles over clear, open sand-plains, with spinifex and large white gums--the only large trees and clear country seen since leaving the settled districts--we climbed up a white gum to have a view of the country eastward. Some rough sandstone cliffs bore North 127 degrees East magnetic, about six miles distant. The country eastward was almost level, with sandstone cliffs here and there, apparently thickly wooded with white gums, and other trees; spinifex everywhere, but no prospects of water. More to the north, a narrow line of samphire flats appeared, with cypress and stunted gums on its edges--all barren and desolate--so much so, indeed, that for the last twenty-five miles there has been no grass seen at all save spinifex. After taking a few bearings from the top of the tree (which I marked with the letter F on the south side), which is in south latitude about 28 degrees 41 minutes, and longitude about 122 degrees 50 East, I decided to return to our last watering place, nearly thirty-one miles distant, as we were now over 100 miles from camp, and the horses had been without water or feed since yesterday morning. Therefore, keeping a little to the north of the outward track, we travelled nearly two hours after dark, and camped without water or feed, and tied up the horses.
3rd.Saddled up early, and steered westerly towards our last watering-place, about fourteen miles distant; but, after travelling nearly seven miles, came to a small pool of water (at the head of the brook where we found water on the 1st), and rested two hours to allow our horses to feed, as they had neither eaten nor drunk for the last forty-eight hours. Resuming our journey along the brook (which I named Windich Brook, after my companion, Tommy Windich) for ten miles, in which we found several pools of water, but destitute of feed, camped without water about two miles east of our bivouac of the 30th June.
4th.Travelling about West-South-West for twelve miles, we reached the pool of water found on our outward track on the 30th June, two miles and a half South-West from Mount Margaret. There we rested an hour. Resuming, we travelled nearly along our outward track for eighteen miles, and camped without water on a small patch of feed. Tommy shot two wurrongs to-day.
5th.Started at daybreak, and, continuing nearly along our outward track for twenty-five miles, we reached the water close to Mount Malcolm, where we left the party, they having shifted, as instructed, seventeen miles farther back. There we rested an hour; but, having finished our provisions, we roasted two wurrongs and made a first-rate dinner. Tommy also shot an emu that came to water, and which we carried to camp. Reached there at 6 p.m. and found all well, having been absent seven days, every night being without water, during which time we travelled over 200 miles.
6th.Weighed all the rations, and found we had 283 pounds flour, 31 pounds bacon, 28 pounds sugar, and 4 pounds tea--equal to thirty-two days' allowance of flour, ten days' bacon, nineteen days' sugar, and twenty-one days' tea on a full ration. Thereupon concluded to return to Perth as quickly as possible, and reduce the allowance of tea and sugar to last thirty days--bacon to be done without. By that time I hope to reach Clarke's homestead, Victoria Plains, and intend to return by Mount Kenneth, Nanjajetty, Ningham, or Mount Singleton, and thence to Damparwar and Clarke's homestead, thus fixing a few points that will be useful to the Survey Office.
7th.At 6.30 a.m., barometer 28 86, thermometer 34 degrees. Started on the return, and followed along our outward tracks for sixteen miles. Camped on east side of granite range, in south latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes, and east longitude 120 degrees 55 minutes.
8th.Travelling nearly along our eastward track, and passing our bivouac of the 19th June, we reached the Two Springs bivouac.
9th.Travelled twenty-two miles, and reached our bivouac of 30th May--129 degrees 9 minutes East.
10th.Reached the bivouac of May 27th. On our way I ascended a very high range, which I named Mount Alfred, and took a fine round of angles--Mount Alexander, Mount Bivou, Mount Ida, Mount Elvire, and Yeadie and Bulgar being visible.
11th (Sunday).Plotted up our track.
12th.Travelled for twenty-five miles and camped on a splendid patch of feed, with a little water on some granite rocks about two miles west of our bivouac of the 24th. This I found to be in south latitude 28 degrees 57 minutes 48 seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and Pegasi (Markab), and in longitude about 119 degrees 28 minutes east; Mount Elvire bearing North 154 degrees East magnetic, distant about twenty-one miles.
13th.Leaving the party in charge of Mr. Monger, with instructions to proceed to Retreat Rock--our bivouac of May 23rd--I started with Mr. Hamersley and Jemmy to attempt to cross Lake Barlee, in order to explore the country on its south side, near Mount Elvire, as well as to try and find natives, Jemmy being acquainted with these tribes. Steering North 154 degrees East magnetic for seven miles, we came to the lake, and, entering it, succeeded in reaching the southern shore after twelve miles of heavy walking, sinking over our boots every step--the horses having great difficulty in getting through. When we reached the southern shore, it was nearly sundown. Determined to push on, and reached the range, where we bivouacked on a patch of feed and a little water; Mount Elvire bearing North 87 degrees East magnetic, about one mile distant; and Yeadie and Bulgar North 8 degrees East magnetic. Rained lightly during the day. Being wet through from the splashings of the horses while crossing the lake, and from it raining throughout the night, and not having any covering, our situation was not the most pleasant. Jemmy informed me there was a fine permanent spring close to Mount Elvire; but we did not go to see it.
14th.This morning, after ascending a range to have a view of the country, steered North 288 degrees East magnetic, and then, travelling six miles, came to a branch of Lake Barlee running far to the southward, which we attempted to cross; but after travelling a mile and a half, the horses went down to their girths in the bog, and we had great difficulty in getting them to return, which, however, we ultimately succeeded in doing, and made another attempt, at a place where a series of islands appeared, to cross it, and, passing over without much difficulty, reached the opposite shore at sundown, where we bivouacked on a splendid grassy ride, with abundance of water in granite rocks, Mount Elvire bearing North 108 degrees East magnetic, and Yeadie and Bulgar North 45 degrees East magnetic.
15th.Having finished our rations last night, we started at dawn, and steered towards Retreat Rock. where we were to meet the party. After travelling five miles, we came to that part of Lake Barlee which we attempted to cross, without success, on May 19th (on our outward track); but, leading our horses, we at last succeeded in crossing, and reached camp, all very tired, at twelve o'clock, finding all well. The party were encamped one mile north of our former bivouac, at some granite rocks with two fine water-holes.
16th.Considerable delay having occurred in collecting the horses, we did not start till ten o'clock, when we travelled nearly along our outward track--passing Yeeramudder Hill, from the summit of which Mount Elvire bore North 111 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic about thirty-five miles distant--for about twenty-one miles, and bivouacked at some granite rocks with a little feed around them, which I found to be in south latitude 29 degrees 8 minutes 47 seconds by meridian altitudes of Bootes (Arcturus) and Pegasi (Markab), and in longitude about 118 degrees 59 minutes East.
17th.Started at 8.45 a.m., and, steering about west for twenty-five miles through dense thickets without feed, we camped without water on a small miserable patch, in south latitude 29 degrees 7 minutes 13 seconds by meridian altitude of Bootes (Arcturus). Marked a small tree with F. 1869. Being now in friendly country, I decided to give up keeping watch, which had been done regularly for the last two months.
18th (Sunday).After starting the party, went, in company with Tommy Windich, to take bearings from a low hill, bearing North 289 degrees, distant about eight miles, after which we struck in the direction in which we expected to find the party; but as, for some reason or other, they had not passed by, I anticipated they must have met with good feed and water, and camped, it being Sunday. However this may be, we kept bearing more and more to the southward, in hope of crossing the track, till after dark, when we reached the Warne Flats, and bivouacked. Not expecting to be absent more than a few days, we had neither rations nor rugs. Luckily, Tommy shot a turkey, which we roasted in the ashes, and made a very good meal. The night was bitterly cold, and, not having any rug, I slept with a fire on each side of me, and, considering the circumstances, slept fairly.
19th.Made a first-rate breakfast off the remainder of the turkey, and then started in search of the party, making back towards where we had left them, keeping well to the southward. After spending nearly the whole of the day, and knocking up the horses, we found the tracks of the party nearly where we had left them yesterday morning, and, following along them for nine miles, found where they had bivouacked last night; and, it being now two hours after dark, we camped also, having between us for supper an opossum, which Tommy had luckily caught during the day. The night was again very cold, and we had hardly anything to eat, which made matters still worse.
20th.Starting on the tracks at daybreak, followed them for about thirteen miles, and then we found the party encamped on the east side of a large bare granite rock called Meroin, Mount Kenneth bearing North 24 degrees East magnetic, about fifteen miles distant. From a cliff, about one mile west of the camp, took a splendid round of angles, Mount Kenneth, Mount Singleton, and several other known points being visible. By meridian altitudes of sun, a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and a Coronae Borealis, camp was in south latitude 29 degrees 10 minutes 49 seconds, and longitude about 118 degrees 14 minutes east.
21st.At seven a.m., barometer 29.10; thermometer 35 degrees. Started at 8.15 a.m. Steered about west for fifteen miles, over country studded here and there with granite rocks, with good feed around them--in some places rock poison--and then camped at a spring called Pullagooroo, bearing North 189 degrees from a bare granite hill, three quarters of a mile distant, from which hill Mount Singleton bore North 237 degrees East magnetic, by meridian altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus) and E Bootes. Pullagooroo is in south latitude 29 degrees 7 minutes 46 seconds. Finished our bacon this morning, and for the future will only have damper and tea.
22nd.Steering a little to the north of west, through dense thickets without grass, we bivouacked at a very grassy spot called Bunnaroo, from which Mount Singleton bore North 205 degrees East magnetic. By meridian altitudes of a Bootes (Arcturus), E Bootes, and Coronae Borealis, camp is in south latitude 28 degrees 58 minutes, and in longitude about 117 degrees 35 minutes east.
23rd.After starting the party with instructions to proceed straight to Mount Singleton, distant about thirty-two miles, I went, in company with Jemmy, to the summit of a high trap range in order to take a round of angles, and fix Nanjajetty, which was visible. While on our way to join the party, saw the tracks of two men and two horses, with two natives walking, and soon after found where they had bivouacked a few days before. Was much surprised at this discovery: suppose it to be squatters looking for country. Continuing, we found the tracks of our party, and overtook them, and encamped at a fine permanent spring--Mount Singleton bearing North 146 degrees East magnetic about three miles and a half distant. Reached the party at seven o'clock. There was a partial eclipse of the moon this evening.
24th.There being splendid green feed around Mount Singleton, and as the horses were tired, I concluded to give them a day's rest. Went, in company with Mr. Monger and Jemmy, to the summit of Mount Singleton, which took us an hour to ascend; but, on reaching it, we were well repaid for the trouble by the very extensive view and the many points to which I could take bearings. Far as the eye could reach to the East and South-East were visible Lake Moore, Mount Churchman; to the north, conspicuous high trap ranges appeared; while to the west, within a radius of six miles, hills covered with flowers gave the country a pretty appearance. Further to the west a dry salt lake and a few trap hills appeared. Reached the camp at 2 p.m. On our way shot three rock kangaroos.
25th (Sunday).Rested at camp near Mount Singleton, which I found to be in south latitude 29 degrees 24 minutes 33 seconds by meridian altitude of sun, and longitude about 117 degrees 20 minutes east.
26th.Some delay having occurred in collecting the horses, did not start till 9 a.m., when we steered a little to the north of west towards Damparwar. For the first seven miles over rough trap hills lightly grassed, when we entered samphire and saltbush flats for four miles. Crossing a large marsh at a point where it was only 100 yards wide, and continuing through thickets, we camped at a spot with very little feed and no water, in south latitude 29 degrees 21 minutes 48 seconds. From this spot Mount Singleton bore North 113 degrees 20 minutes East magnetic, distant about twenty miles. Here we met two natives, whom we had seen on our outward track at the Warne Corroboree. They were of course friendly, and slept at our camp; they had a great many dulgates and opossums, which they carried in a net bag, made out of the inner bark of the ordnance-tree, which makes a splendid strong cord. They informed us that a native had come from the eastward with intelligence relating to the encounter we had with the large tribe on May 31, adding that we had all been killed, and that all the natives in this vicinity had cried very much on hearing the news. This is another specimen of the narrations of natives, with whom a tale never loses anything by being carried.
27th.Steering a little to the north of west for eighteen miles, we reached Damparwar Springs, a clear grassy spot of about 300 acres, on west side of a low granite hill. The spring was dry, but by digging a few feet obtained abundant supply. From the appearance of the country there has hardly been any rain in this neighbourhood for many months. Took a round of angles from a trap hill about two miles distant, Mount Singleton and many other points being visible. Met a party of friendly natives here. By meridian altitudes of a Bootes, a Coronae Borealis and a Lyrae (Vega), Damparwar Spring is in south latitude 29 degrees 16 minutes 32 seconds, and longitude about 116 degrees 47 minutes East.
28th.Steering in a southerly direction, and following along the western margin of a salt lake--most of the way over samphire flats, with thickets intervening, denser than usual--we encamped on a small grassy spot, with plenty of water in granite rocks, called Murrunggnulgo, situated close to the west side of the lake, which I named Lake Monger. The native Jemmy, in company with some of his friends, stayed behind to-day in order to catch opossums, and did not join us this evening. By meridian altitudes of E Bootes, a Coronae Borealis, a Lyrae (Vega), and Aquilae (Altair), Murrunggnulgo is in south latitude 29 degrees 37 minutes 20 seconds. Damparwar bearing about north magnetic.
29th.Moving a little to the west of south for twenty miles, through dense thickets, by far the worst we have ever encountered, and destitute of feed, we reached Bera Bera, a grassy spot with a dry well, where water might be procured. Continuing North 238 degrees East for about five miles, we reached and camped at some granite rocks, with a fine well of water called Wandanno, which I found to be in south latitude 29 degrees 57 minutes 14 seconds by meridian altitudes of Lyrae (Vega) and Aquilae (Altair). From Bera Bera, Mount Singleton bore North 50 degrees 30 minutes East magnetic about fifty miles distant. Jemmy did not put in an appearance to-day, but sent on a native to say he would join us in a day or two.
30th.Travelling about North 212 degrees East magnetic for fourteen miles, over samphire flats, with thickets intervening, we reached a fine grassy spot, with water in granite rocks, called Gnookadunging. Continuing about south for two and a half miles, passed another small grassy spot called Ginbinning; thence in about the general direction of North 210 degrees East magnetic. For about eleven and a half miles, over an immense sand-plain, running as far as the eye could reach to the North-West and South-East, we camped in the centre of it at a spring called Manginie, a sheep station belonging to Mr. James Church. Towards the end of the day Bailey's horse Tommy fairly gave in, and we had great difficulty in getting him to camp, which Mr. Hamersley and I did not reach until an hour after dark. The night was cloudy, and I was unable to get any observations, but luckily at daybreak obtained meridian altitudes of Jupiter, which placed Manginie Spring in South latitude 30 degrees 21 minutes.
31st.Steering about South-South-West for thirteen miles, we reached Cooroo Springs--a fine grassy spot in winter--where we camped, the horses being very tired. For the first seven miles over scrubby sand-plains; thence to Cooroo, over grassy country, with spearwood thickets intervening. Tommy shot a kangaroo this afternoon, which was very acceptable, having had only damper and tea for several days past.
August 1st (Sunday).Rested at Cooroo Springs. All very busy putting our ragged clothes in as good repair as possible. By meridian altitudes of sun, Lyrae (Vega), 32 degrees 15 minutes. Read Divine Service. Jemmy has not yet overtaken us, so I conclude he has changed his mind, and does not intend following us. We are now about nine miles from Clarke's homestead, which bears about South-South-East.
2nd.Travelling about South-South-East for nine miles over grassy country, with York gums, etc., we reached the hospitable residence of Mr. Clarke, where we were very kindly received, and stayed a short time to hear the news. Resuming for eighteen miles along the road to Newcastle, we passed Mr. Donald Macpherson's, where I obtained some rations, and pushed on six miles farther, and bivouacked one mile south of Badgy-Badgy, with very short feed for our horses.
3rd.Travelling along the road towards Newcastle for twenty-six miles, we camped one mile past Byen, and about sixteen miles from Newcastle.
4th.Reached Newcastle at eleven o'clock, and had just time to report the safe return of the expedition before the mail left.
5th.After handing over all the horses provided by the different settlers to their respective owners, and bidding farewell to Mr. George Monger (who intends proceeding to York), I left Newcastle in company with Mr. M. Hamersley and Tommy Windich, leaving Morgan and remainder of equipment to follow with the cart which had been brought to Newcastle by Ward and C. Adams. Reached Baylup at 4 p.m.
6th.Made an early start; reached Guildford at twelve o'clock, where we rested an hour. Then resuming, reached Perth at 4 p.m., and reported personally the results of the expedition, having been absent 113 days, in which time I travelled by computation over 2000 miles.
I now beg to make a few remarks with reference to the main object of the expedition, which was the discovery of the remains of the late Dr. Leichardt and party.
In the first place, Mr. Frederick Roe was informed by the native Weilbarrin, that two white men and their native companions had been killed by the aborigines, thirteen days' journey to the northward, when he was at a spot called Koolanobbing, which is in south latitude about 30 degrees 53 minutes, and longitude about 119 degrees 14 minutes east. Mr. Austin lost eleven horses at Poison Rock (nine died, and two were left nearly dead), which is in latitude 28 degrees 43 minutes 23 seconds south, and longitude about 118 degrees 38 minutes east, or about 130 miles from Koolanobbing, and in the direction pointed to by the natives. I therefore imagine it to be very probable that the whole story originated from the horses lost by Mr. Austin at Poison Rock, as I am convinced the natives will say anything they imagine will please. Again, the account given us at Mount Churchman, on May 5th, appeared very straightforward and truthful. It was very similar to that related to Mr. Roe; but, on questioning the natives, they at last stated there were neither men nor guns left, only horses' remains, and pointed towards Poison Rock. Further, the native who gave all the information to Mr. Monger was one of our party. His tale, as related by Mr. Monger, also appeared very straightforward and truthful, that white men had been killed by the natives twenty years ago; that he had seen the spot, which was at a spring near a large lake, so large that it looked like the sea as seen from Rottnest, eleven days' journey from Ningham or Mount Singleton, in a fine country. The white men were rushed upon while making a damper, and clubbed and speared. He had often seen an axe which formed part of the plunder. All this appears feasible and truthful enough in print; but the question is, Of what value did I find it? Upon telling Jemmy what Mr. Monger stated he told him, he said he never told him that he had seen things himself, but that he had heard it from a native who had seen them, thus contradicting the whole he had formerly stated to Mr. Monger. Moreover, the fine country he described we never saw, what a native calls good country being where he can get a drink of water and a wurrong; and if there is an acre of grassy land they describe it as a very extensive grassy country! This I have generally found the case. As a specimen of the untruthfulness of these natives, I may quote that my native Jemmy, who was a first-rate fellow in every other respect, stated to Mr. Monger and myself at York, that there was a large river like that called the Avon at York, to the eastward, knowing at the time he would be found out to be telling a falsehood. He even told Mr. George Monger, before leaving Newcastle, to buy hooks, in order to catch the fish that were in the river, and concluded by stating that we would have great difficulty in crossing it, as it ran a great distance north and south. Almost every evening I questioned and cross-questioned him respecting this river; still he adhered to what he first stated! It may well be imagined how disappointed we were on reaching the spot to find only a small brook running into a salt marsh, with water in winter, but dry in summer.
With reference to the country travelled over, I am of opinion that it is worthless as a pastoral or agricultural district; and as to minerals I am not sufficiently conversant with the science to offer an opinion, except that I should think it was worth while sending geologists to examine it thoroughly.
It now becomes my most pleasing duty to record my entire satisfaction with the manner in which all the members of the expedition exerted themselves in the performance of their respective duties. To Mr. George Monger and Mr. Malcolm Hamersley I am indebted for their co-operation and advice on all occasions. I am also deeply indebted to Mr. Hamersley for collecting and preserving all the botanical specimens that came within his reach, as well as the great trouble and care taken with the store department, placed under his immediate charge. To probation prisoner David Morgan my best thanks are due as the shoeing smith, as well as acting cook for the party the whole time. Of Tommy Windich (native) I cannot speak too highly, being very useful in collecting the horses, as well as a first-class huntsman, and really invaluable as a water finder. Accompanying me on many trying occasions, suffering often from want of water, he showed energy and determination deserving of the highest praise. Jemmy Mungaro was also a first-class bushman, and invaluable as a water finder. He was in many ways useful, and very obedient. His great failing was that he exaggerated--no tale ever losing anything in his charge. Nevertheless, I have many things to thank him for, and therefore he deserves praise.
In conclusion, sir, allow me to thank you for your kindness and advice, which has greatly supported me in this arduous undertaking. I much regret that an expedition which was so efficiently equipped, and on which I was left so free to act, has not resulted in more direct benefit to the colony, to satisfy many who are not capable of appreciating the importance of such explorations.
I have, Sir, etc.,JOHN FORREST,
Leader of Expedition.
The Honourable Captain Roe, R.N., Surveyor-General.
So far as the mystery on which the fate of Leichardt is involved was concerned, my expedition was barren of results; but the additional knowledge gained of the character of the country between the settled districts of Western Australia and the 123rd meridian of east longitude, well repaid me, and those of the party, for the exertions we had undergone.
Shortly after my return I received an official communication from Mr. Barlee, the Colonial Secretary at Perth, announcing that his Excellency the Governor, with a view to mark his sense of the value of my services as leader of the expedition, had sanctioned the payment to me of a gratuity of 50 pounds. Mr. Monger and Mr. Hamersley each received 25 pounds; Morgan, the probation prisoner, who had done good service in the expedition, especially in looking after the horses, was promised a remission of a portion of his sentence. Tommy Windich and Jemmy Mungaro, the natives, had each a single-barrel gun, with his name inscribed--presents which they highly valued.
So ended the first of my expeditions; and a very short time elapsed before I was called upon to undertake a longer, more hazardous, and more important journey.
A new Exploration suggested.Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the South Coast.The experience derived from Eyre's Expedition.Survey of Port Eucla.Official Instructions.The Start.Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.The Schooner at Port Eucla.Journal of the Expedition.
A new Exploration suggested.Proposal to reach Adelaide by way of the South Coast.The experience derived from Eyre's Expedition.Survey of Port Eucla.Official Instructions.The Start.Dempster's Station near Esperance Bay.The Schooner at Port Eucla.Journal of the Expedition.
Immediately on my return to Perth a new expedition was suggested by Dr. Von Mueller, whose anxiety for the discovery of Leichardt was rather increased than abated by the disappointment experienced. He proposed that I should start from the upper waters of the Murchison River with a light party and provisions for six months, and endeavour to reach Carpentaria. He thought, not only would such an expedition almost certainly find some traces of the lost explorer, but probably would make geographical discoveries of the highest interest and importance. In a paper in the Colonial Monthly he argued that:
"While those who searched after traces of the lost party did not solve the primary objects of their mission, their labours have not been without importance to geographical science. The course of one traveller connected the southern interior of Queensland in a direct route with the vast pastoral depressions about Lake Torrens; the researches of another explorer, bent on ascertaining Leichardt's fate, unfolded to us a tract of table country, now already occupied by herds and flocks, not less in length than that of Sweden and Italy...We should bear fully in mind how a line in Leichardt's intended direction would at once enable the squatters of North-East Australia to drive their surplus of flocks and herds easily across to the well-watered, hilly and grassy country within close proximity to the harbour of the north-west coast."
I should have been well satisfied to undertake an expedition in the proposed direction, starting from the head of the Murchison, and trying to connect my route with that of Mr. A. Gregory's down Sturt Creek; but the difficulty of obtaining funds and lack of support caused the project to be set aside or at least delayed. Mr. Weld, then Governor of Western Australia, who always heartily supported explorations, was in favour of an attempt to reach Adelaide by way of the south coast, and offered me the command of an expedition in that direction.
I readily accepted the offer, and at once busied myself with the necessary preparations, but was far from being insensible to the difficulties of the undertaking. Of the route nothing was known except the disastrous experience of Mr. Eyre in 1840 and 1841. His remarkable narrative--interesting to all concerned in the history of explorations or in the records of energy, courage, and perseverance under the most discouraging circumstances--might have acted as a warning to future explorers against endeavouring to follow in his track. The fearful privations he endured, his narrow escape from the most terrible of all forms of death, were certainly not encouraging; but his experience might often be of service to others, pointing out dangers to be avoided, and suggesting methods of overcoming difficulties. At any rate, I was not deterred from the attempt to trace once more the coast of the Great Bight, and to reach the sister colony by that route. Eyre had not discovered any rivers, although it was possible that he might have crossed the sand-bars of rivers in the night. The difficulties he laboured under in his almost solitary journey, and the sufferings he endured, might have rendered him unable to make observations and discoveries more practicable to a better equipped and stronger party, while the deficiency of water on the route appeared to offer the greatest impediment. We were not, however, deterred from the attempt, and on the 30th of March, 1870, we started from Perth on a journey which all knew to be dangerous, but which we were sanguine enough to believe might produce considerable results.