Thursday, 11th September, The Upper Burke. Started at 6.40; crossed the Tomkinson and small grassy plains; ascended the north spur of the Whittington range. After sundown, it becoming quite dark to me, so that I could not see the horse's head before me, I was compelled to halt on the top of the range, four miles from my former camp on the Morphett. Day excessively hot; myself and horses have felt it very much. Wind variable, from the north and north-east.
Friday, 12th September, Top of Whittington Range. At break of day started over the range to my former camp, but found all the water gone. Proceeded down the Morphett, and at four miles found a little in the sandy bottom of what had once been a large hole. There is as much as will do for me until to-morrow by digging. All the clouds gone; not the slightest appearance of rain. The country on fire all round us. Wind, north-west and variable. Day exceedingly hot.
Saturday, 13th September, The Morphett. Started at 7.20, crossed the other spur of Whittington range, and at 11.20 arrived at Attack Creek. There is still an abundant supply of water, although much reduced—much lower than I have ever seen it. In about an hour and a half after camping, some native women came to the lower end of the hole where Billiatt was getting some water. The moment they saw him they went off at full speed. In a short time afterwards one man made his appearance and came marching up towards us. Sent Mr. Kekwick to meet him. As he approached him the black became stationary, and moving back a little, beckoned to some others to come up. Mr. Kekwick observed five or six others down at the lower end of the water hole, one of whom came up. I then sent Frew to Mr. Kekwick. They approached very cautiously, but as soon as they caught sight of Mr. Kekwick's gun, he could not get near them. On laying it down he got a little nearer; they shrank back when he attempted to touch them. Taking out a small strip of white calico which he had in his pocket, he tore it into two and held it out to them. They wished to possess it, but did not fancy coming too close to him for it. He made a sign that he wished to tie it round their wrists; they gradually approached nearer, holding out their arms at full length, and so frightened were they to come close, that he had to reach out his full length to tie them on; after which they gained a little more confidence, pointed towards the gun, imitated the report with their mouth, and held up three fingers, signifying that they recollected my first visit and number, which they do not seem to have forgotten, and seem to dread the appearance of a gun. The first one that came up had a very long spear, with a flat, sharp, and barbed point. They were two elderly stout men, one very much diseased and lame. They remained a long time looking at us. None of the others came up. In a little more than three hours they went off and we saw no more of them during the evening. Wind, south-west, with heavy clouds from the same direction and from the south.
Sunday, 14th September, Attack Creek. During the night the sky frequently became overcast with heavy clouds, which seemed to indicate rain, but none fell. About eight o'clock the wind changed to north-east, bringing up very heavy clouds, which led me to expect rain, but I was much disappointed, for at half-past twelve they all broke up and went off. This morning, at sunrise, I despatched Thring and Nash to see if there is water in Hayward, Phillip, Bishop, Tennant, or Goodiar Creeks. If there is none I shall require to rest the horses for three days, and then push on for the Bonney. It is a very long distance, and only the very best of them will be able to do it. I feel a little better this morning, but still very weak. The pains are increasing in my limbs, and my mouth is so bad I can eat nothing but a little boiled flour. How I am to get over such long pushes I do not know. I must trust entirely to Divine Providence. The natives have not visited us this morning. A little before four o'clock p.m. Nash returned. Thring had sent him back to report that there was water, by digging in the sand, at Hayward Creek, while he goes on to see if there is any other creek. Wind variable, with heavy clouds at sundown.
Monday, 15th September, Attack Creek. Started at 8.40. On crossing the creek, one of the weak horses, which had eaten some poison about the Roper, and which has been getting weaker every day, in attempting to get up the bank, which was not steep, fell and rolled back into the creek. There he had to be some time before he was able to get up. I saw that it was useless taking him any further, therefore left him where he will get plenty of feed and water. Proceeded to the Hayward, where I met Thring. There is some soft mud in Phillip Creek, but none in Bishop Creek. Camped, and cleared out a place for the horses to drink at. A number of natives have been camped on the opposite side of the creek, where they have left their spears, dishes, etc. Thring had arrived here some time before. About twenty of them coming closer to him than was safe, he mounted his horse and chased them to the hills, where they are now seated watching us. Some of them are approaching nearer. Mr. Kekwick could not get them to come near him until one of the old men who visited us at Attack Creek arrived and came up to him, which gave the others confidence. A number of them then came forward—tall, stout, well-made fellows, armed with long heavy spears, having bamboo at one end. One of them had also part of a large sea-shell, but it is so broken and ground down for a scoop that I cannot say of what description it is. The bamboo and the sea-shell show that this tribe has communicated with the sea-coast. They remained until sundown, and then did not seem inclined to go away, but prepared sleeping-places for the night—a proof that this is the only water near. There are upwards of thirty men, besides women and children. Wind, south-east. Clouds all gone.
Tuesday, 16th September, Hayward Creek. The natives showed themselves again at daybreak, but kept on the opposite bank of the creek, having a long look at us, and calling out something at the top of their voices which we could not understand. Watered our horses, saddled, and moved on amidst a succession of yells and screeches from old and young. Proceeded across Short ranges, and Phillip, and Bishop Creeks. Looked into every place I could think of, but could not find a drop. Moved on to Tennant Creek. Found that dry. Tried digging in the sand, without effect. Pushed on to the large rocky water hole in Goodiar Creek, where I made almost sure that I should find some. On arriving, was sadly disappointed to find that dry also. Proceeded across the McDouall range, and camped on a grassy plain between it and Mount Samuel. The natives followed us nearly to Tennant Creek, raising a line of smoke all the way. They kept about a mile to the east of us, on some rising ground that runs nearly parallel with my tracks. We have had to lighten a heavy cart-horse named Charley. When any hardship is to be undergone, he is always the first to show symptoms of giving in. He had only thirty pounds to carry to-day, and he looks ten times worse than those that are carrying one hundred and twenty. I shall require to let him go without anything to-morrow. We shall have to watch the horses during the night to prevent them from straying in search of water. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 17th September, McDouall Range. Started at daybreak for the Murchison range. About eleven o'clock the cart-horse gave in, and would not move a step further. I am obliged to leave him; he has been carrying nothing all the morning. Two others that have been very weak from eating some poisonous plant will, I fear, give in before the end of the day. A little after four o'clock I found I must leave them. At dark arrived at the Baker, which I found dry. Camped. This is another night the horses will be without water, and will require to be watched. A quantity of native smoke about. There must be permanent water about this range somewhere, but I have no time to look for it now. Tomorrow I must push on for the Bonney. If that fails me I shall be in a sad predicament, but I trust that the Almighty will still continue to show me the same great kindness that he has done throughout my different journeys. There is very little improvement in my health. I feel very much being in the saddle so long. Twelve hours is almost too much for my weak state, but I must endure it. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 18th September, Murchison Range. Proceeded at daydawn to the Gilbert. Found it dry. Went on towards the Bonney; crossed the McLaren—no water. At two o'clock arrived at the Bonney, and am most thankful to Divine Providence that there is still a good supply of water that will last some time longer. My horses look very bad indeed. I expected to have lost more of them. They have got over this first difficulty very well. Towards the end of the journey my old horse took the lead. Day hot. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 19th September, The Bonney. From this camp Mount Fisher bears 119 degrees 30 minutes. I must remain here some time to get my horses round again. A large number of them are looking very ill this morning. Being so long without water and the dry state in which the grass is, has reduced them more than three months' hard work would have done. If the grass had any nourishment in it, two or three days would have done for them. Not a drop of rain seems to have fallen here for the last twelve months; everything is dry and parched up. This appears to be the driest part of the year. I am very doubtful of the water in the Stirling, the next place that I was depending upon. From the very reduced state in which this is, I have very little hope of there being any there. The day has been again oppressively hot. I trust we shall soon have rain. Wind variable. Native smoke about.
Saturday, 20th September, The Bonney. Resting horses. I feel very ill again; being so long in the saddle is very severe upon me. Day again very hot. Wind from the west, with a few clouds, which I trust will bring up rain.
Sunday, 21st September, The Bonney. Resting horses. Day very hot. Wind, west; clouds broken up.
Monday, 22nd September, The Bonney. This morning sent Thring up the creek to see if there is any larger water than this that can be depended on for some time to come. Very hot. Clouds all gone. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 23rd September, The Bonney. Recruiting horses, etc. About eleven o'clock Thring returned. He has been about twenty miles up the creek to where it became much narrower and was joined by a number of small ones coming from very rough and stony hills. Its general course is about east-south-east. At four miles from this he found a pool of water four feet deep, two hundred yards long, and thirty feet broad. There is a considerable quantity of water all the way up, but shallow, and none of the extent of the former one found. Should I be forced to retreat, that will be a safe place to fall back on until rain falls. Day again oppressively hot. Wind, east.
Wednesday, 24th September, The Bonney. Shortly after sunrise despatched Thring to see if there is any water in Thring Ponds, or any between them and this. I would have gone myself, but was quite unable to do so, being very little better. One of my good horses has met with an accident in feeding along the bank of the creek in places where it is very precipitous. A portion must have given way and thrown him into the creek, injuring him very much in the chest and other parts of the body. I am afraid he will not be able to travel with me, which will be a great loss, having so many weak ones already. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds.
Thursday, 25th September, The Bonney. Clouds all gone, no rain. Resting horses, etc. Day hot, morning and evening cool, with strong wind from east and south-east. I have been obliged to reduce the rations to five pounds of flour and one pound of dried meat per week for each man, which will leave me provisions at that rate until the end of January, in case I should be locked in with the dry state of the season. The flies at this place are a perfect torment. A little after three o'clock p.m. Thring returned. There was no water in the Barker, none in the Sutherland, and when he got to the ponds, found them quite dry also; he then returned two miles to where there was some good feed for the horse, and camped for the night without water, intending to return to this in the morning. In saddling he observed some crested pigeons fly past him to the south of east; he thought it would be as well to follow them some distance in that direction, as they might be going to water, as about that time in the morning is generally the time they fly towards it. After going a few miles he surprised fourteen natives at breakfast. As soon as they saw him they ran off at full speed. Observing some small wooden troughs with water in them, he collected it together and gave it to his horse. Examined the small creek for more, but could find none, and knowing the natives would not carry it very far, and that there must be some no great way off, went on a little further and found a fine pool of water with ducks on it, but shallow. He then returned. This will bring the Stirling within visiting distance. I shall remove the party down to the pool to-morrow. Strong wind, still from the south-east.
Friday, 26th September, The Bonney. In consequence of the horses separating during the night, I did not get a start before nine o'clock; followed my former tracks across Younghusband's range; thence on a bearing 25 degrees east of south; arrived at the pool of water at 5.15 p.m. Before reaching the water we crossed four red sand hills, with spinifex, running north-east and south-west, having broad valleys between, in which are growing melaleucas, gum-trees, and grass. After rain they retain water, but now are quite dry. This one that we are now camped at is much larger, having the same description of timber, with polyganum growing round about it; the water is shallow, and will not last long. There are a number of ducks, geese, and other water-fowl on it, but too shy to be approached. A quantity of native smoke about. I am very ill to-day; I am scarcely able to endure the motion of the horse thus far. The horse that injured himself so much knocked up about two miles from this water, but we were able to get him to it before sundown. I shall have to kill him and eat what is good of him; it is useless to attempt taking him on a long journey without water—he would never be able to do it; and, as we are now upon half rations of meat, I shall kill and eat him, so that he will not be lost altogether. Wind variable. Day exceedingly hot.
Saturday, 27th September, Pool of Water. Before attempting to see if there is water in the Stirling, I have sent Thring on course 20 degrees west of south, to see if there is any creek or water between two stony ranges of hills that lie east of Mount Morphett. At sundown he has not returned. Wind, west. Day very hot. After sundown we shot the black horse that was not able to travel; shall cut him up and dry him to-morrow; there are some parts very much injured by bruises he got in his tumble. He also showed evidence of having drunk too much water at the Bonney. Being so exhausted and knocked up on my arrival there, I was unable to go and see they did not drink too much, and had to leave it to others. In all my journeys (and my horses have been much longer time without water than this), this is the first horse that has injured himself in that way.
Sunday, 28th September, Pool of Water. About eight o'clock, Thring returned, being out all night without food or blankets; he had found a large gum creek in the place I had sent him to, with water in it, by sinking in its sandy bed. I shall move the party to it to-morrow morning. Wind variable, mostly from the north and north-east. Day very hot. Latitude, 20 degrees 47 minutes 59 seconds.
Monday, 29th September, Pool of Water. Started at seven o'clock, course 20 degrees west of south. For the first five miles we passed over a fine country, soil red, and in places a little sandy, with gums, grass, a little scrub, and in places a little spinifex. After this it became covered with spinifex until within five miles of the creek, where the mulga commenced, with plenty of grass, which continued to its banks, where we arrived after twenty-six miles, and had to dig six feet in the sand before we could get sufficient water for the horses; by ten o'clock p.m. however we got them all watered. I am inclined to believe this is a continuation of the Taylor and other creeks coming from Forster range more to the eastward. After my arrival here, I sent Thring up the creek to see if he could find any surface water. After dark he returned and informed me that he had followed it into the Crawford range, and that it came through the range; if such is the case, there is no doubt of it being the Taylor with the creeks from Forster range. There is no surface water, but apparently plenty by digging in the bed of the creek, judging from the number of native wells that he saw with water in them. At one of the wells he saw several natives, who ran off on his approach. Latitude, 21 degrees 9 minutes 30 seconds. Wind variable. Day oppressively hot.
Tuesday, 30th September, The Taylor. As soon as I could get the horses, I despatched Thring to the Stirling to see if there is water. I have sent King on with him, with a pack-horse carrying two bags of water for the horse that carries him to the Stirling. They are to follow this creek up, and, if it is the Taylor, they are to stop to-night at our last camp on it. Next morning King is to return to me, whilst Thring goes on to examine the Stirling. Still all hands engaged in sinking for water for the horses. Wind from the south-east, with heavy clouds from the north-west and south-west, showing every indication of rain, which I sincerely hope will fall before morning.
Wednesday, 1st October, The Taylor. About nine o'clock last night there were a few drops of rain, and almost immediately afterwards the clouds broke up and went off to the south-east, to our very great disappointment. This morning there are still a few light ones about, but very high, and no more appearance of rain. Wind still strong and blowing from the same quarter. We have now got enough water for the horses, and can water them all in about two hours. No natives have shown themselves since we have been here, although their smoke was quite close to us yesterday. In the afternoon Thring and King returned, having found a fine pool of water about fifteen miles up the creek, four feet deep, which will serve us for a short time. Sundown: still blowing strong from the south-east; clouds all gone.
Thursday, 2nd October, The Taylor. Started at five minutes to eight, course 3 degrees west of south; at five miles got through the gap in the range, then changed to 20 degrees west of south, and after ten miles on that course reached the water hole. The journey to-day has been over first-rate travelling-ground, avoiding crossing the range at Mount Morphett. The country in many places along the creek has large grassy plains with mulga, gum-trees, and scrub, not too thick to get easily through. Native smoke under the hills to the east. Strong cool wind blowing all day from the south-east. A little before sundown three natives came within three hundred yards of the camp, setting fire to the grass as they came along. We could not get them to come any nearer. Latitude 21 degrees 22 minutes 12 seconds.
Friday, 3rd October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Shortly after sunrise despatched Thring and King in search of water higher up the creek. I feel so weak and ill that I am now scarcely able to move about the camp. This morning Frew, in searching for some of the horses, came upon the three natives we saw last night; the moment they saw him off they went at full speed, and he saw no more of them. They must have been sneaking about and watching our camp during the night. Wind still blowing strong south-east.
Saturday, 4th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. It still continues to blow very strong from the same quarter. A little before two p.m. King returned. They had followed up this creek for a considerable distance beyond where the Taylor joined it, and as it came more from the south-east than I had expected, and approached near to Forster range, Thring changed his course to the Stirling, according to my instructions. A little before sundown they arrived at my former camp on the Stirling; found the water hole quite dry; dug down, but could find no moisture. They had not seen a drop of water during the whole day. In the morning King returned to me, giving Thring's horse the water that he had carried with him to enable him to search the Stirling down and round about the adjoining country. Still blowing strong from the same direction. No clouds visible.
Sunday, 5th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Still blowing strong and cool from the same quarter. About half-past one o'clock Thring returned; he could find no surface water, neither any to be had by digging. He then crossed over to the foot of the Hanson, where he saw some native smoke; on his arriving at it he surprised a native busily engaged in sinking for water, about six feet deep, in the bed of the creek, who, as soon as he saw him, jumped out of the well and ran off as fast as he could. He then tried to see what quantity of water was in the bottom of the well, but having nothing but a quart pot to clear it out with, he was unable to form a correct opinion, but from all appearances he thinks there will be sufficient for our use for some time, only it will require an immense deal of labour and time to remove the great body of sand to enable the horses to get down to it. To-morrow I shall send Thring with McGorrerey and Nash, with four horses and sufficient provisions for a fortnight. On their arrival at the native well on the Hanson they will be able easily to get water enough for their four horses that night. McGorrerey and Nash will then clear out the well and see what quantity there is in it, while Thring will proceed up the Hanson to see if there is water in the springs that I discovered on my first journey through the centre. If they are dry he will proceed with the examination of the Hanson to above where we crossed it; he will then return to the diggers; by that time they will be able to judge if there is sufficient water for the whole party. If there is sufficient he will leave them to dig, and come on to me; if not, and there is no more water higher up, he will bring them on with him, and I shall require to try a course more to the south-east. In the afternoon the three natives again made their appearance, bawling out as they came near, but retreated as Mr. Kekwick went towards them to see what they wanted. Wind still south-east.
Monday, 6th October, Surface Water, The Taylor. Shortly after sunrise despatched Thring with McGorrerey and Nash to the Hanson. Day very hot. I am still very ill—no improvement whatever. Wind strong from the south-east.
Tuesday, 7th October, The Taylor. What a miserable life mine is now! I get no rest night nor day from this terrible gnawing pain; the nights are too long, and the days are too long, and I am so weak that I am hardly able to move about the camp. I am truly wretched. When will this cease? Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 8th October, The Taylor. Wind still blowing from the south-east; no appearance of rain.
Thursday, 9th October, The Taylor. Last night, about sundown, a native woman and youngster came to the waterhole, rushed down, had a drink, and were running off again, when I cooed and made signs of friendship; in a few seconds the woman gained confidence, and, not seeing any of us approach, went down to the hole again, and fetched up a large troughful of water. Mr. Kekwick tried to induce her to stop, in order to gain some information from her, but it was of no use; the faster he walked the faster she did the same, chatting all the time, pointing to the south; so he left her to walk at her leisure. They do not seem to be at all frightened of us; but we cannot get any of them to come near, although we have tried every time they have come. The day again oppressively hot. I still feel very ill. Wind from south-east. Nothing particular has occurred during the day. This is dreadful work to be detained here so long. I am afraid soon I shall not be able to sit in the saddle, and then what must I do? I feel myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I hope the Almighty will have compassion on me, and soon send me some relief. He is the only one that can do it—my only friend.
Friday, 10th October, The Taylor. Last night, a little before sundown, until after dark, we were amused by a farce enacted by the natives, apparently to keep us quiet and render us powerless, while they approached the water hole and got what water they required. They commenced at some distance off, raising a heavy black smoke, (by setting fire to the spinifex), and calling out most lustily at the top of their voices. As the sun got lower I had the party prepared for an attack; on they came, the fire rolling before them. We could now occasionally see them; one was an old man with a very powerful voice, who seemed to be speaking some incantations, with the most dreadful howl I ever heard in my life, resembling a man suffering the extremes of torture; he was assisted in his horrid yell by some women. As the evening got darker and they were within one hundred and fifty yards of us, and nearly opposite our camp, the scene was very pretty—in fact grand. In the foreground was our camp equipment with the party armed, ready to repel an attack. On the opposite side of the creek was a long line of flames, some mounting high in the air, others kept at a low flickering light. In the midst of the flames the natives appeared to be moving about, performing all sorts of antics; behind them came the old man with his women. At every high flame he seemed to be performing some mysterious spell, still yelling in the former horrid tone, turning and twisting his body and legs and arms into all sorts of shapes. They appeared like so many demons, dancing, sporting, and enjoying themselves in the midst of flames. At last they and their fire reached the water hole after continuing this horrid noise for nearly two hours without intermission; as soon as they came in sight of the water, those in front rushed down into it, satisfied themselves, filled their troughs and bags, except the old man, who kept up his howl until he was stopped by a drink of water. This seemed to satisfy them, for they went off from us about three quarters of a mile and camped, I suppose thinking they had done great things in keeping us so quiet. Shortly after this something started the horses which made them all rush together. I kept the party under arms till nine o'clock p.m. and then, everything appearing to be quiet, I sent them all to bed except the one on guard. The natives were quiet during the night. This morning the blacks watched us collecting the horses and watering them; they then very quietly slipped down to the water, filled their troughs, etc., and in about half an hour went off and left us in possession of the water. They must certainly think we are very much to be frightened by fire and a great noise, or they would never have come in the way they did last night; they would have been rather surprised had they attacked us, to find that we could both speak and injure by fire. I am better pleased that they went away quietly; it is far from my wish to injure one of them if they will let me pass peaceably through. About two o'clock p.m. Thring returned; he had examined up the Hanson, but could not find a drop of water, either on the surface or by digging. On his return to where he had left the two men to dig, he found there would not be enough water for the whole party, as it came in so slowly; it is on the top of hard burnt sandstone; he therefore came on to inform me of the result, leaving the two men still there. They had been visited by the natives, who appeared to be inclined to be rather unfriendly at first, but on showing them they were welcome to use the water as well as the party, they became friendly, and came over night and morning to fill their troughs and bags. They pointed to the south-south-east, and made signs, by digging with a scoop, that there was water in that direction, but how far he could not make out. This is a sad disappointment to me. I dare not move the party on to where they are digging, there is too little water. To-morrow morning I must send Thring and King on to Anna Reservoir to see if there is any there; if that is dry I shall be locked in until rain falls, and that may not be before the equinox, in March, a very dismal prospect to look forward to. I shall start Thring and King to-morrow morning; they will reach where the diggers are to-morrow night, and will rest their horses there on Sunday. On Monday morning start for Anna Reservoir—King, with a pack-horse carrying water, will go on one day with Thring. The water to be given to Thring's horse night and morning. Thring will proceed to the Reservoir. King will return to the diggers with the empty bags, have them filled, and next morning start with fresh horses and the water to meet Thring on his return in case the Reservoir is dry; this is the only way that I see it can be done. I now begin to feel the want of my health dreadfully. Although Thring is a good bushman and does his best, poor fellow, yet he wants experience and maturer judgment; he has had hard work of it lately, but he is always ready to start again at any moment that I wish. Wind, south-east. A few light clouds about.
Saturday, 11th October, The Taylor. The natives camped last night at their former place; they seem to have given up all their buffoonery. I suppose they see it has no effect upon us. Shortly after sunrise despatched Thring and King. The day again oppressively hot, with a few light clouds from the south. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 12th October, The Taylor. The natives again encamped in their former place last night. They came in late and started early this morning. They always seem to go off to the westward. Day again oppressively hot. Wind, south-east.
Monday, 13th October, The Taylor. Can see nothing of the natives this morning; they must have gone off during the early part of last night. We tried to get near to them yesterday afternoon by making friendly signs, etc., but the moment we approached them they ran off, and everything we can think of will not induce them to come near us or allow us to get near them; they are the most timid race I have ever met with, which I think is a very bad feature—such are often very treacherous. I should have a much higher opinion of them if they would come boldly forward and see if we were friends or foes. Wind from the north; heavy clouds from south and south-west.
Tuesday, 14th October, The Taylor. During the night there was a deal of lightning in the south and south-west; clouds about, but high and much broken. About two o'clock p.m. they collected together and gave a very promising appearance of a heavy fall of rain; they seemed to be coming up all round, but the heaviest from the south and south-west. At four o'clock p.m. it began to lighten and thunder, accompanied by a shower which did not last above a few minutes. Sundown: still the same promising dark, heavy, gloomy appearance. Wind, south-east.
Wednesday, 15th October, The Taylor. During the night we had a terrific storm of lightning and thunder, which continued throughout the night and morning at intervals, but little rain has fallen, it has merely damped the surface of the ground. At twelve o'clock to-day it has nearly cleared all away, leaving only a few light clouds, which is another very great disappointment. At sundown it again became overcast. Wind variable.
Thursday, 16th October, The Taylor. Still cloudy during the night and morning, but no rain has fallen; the heavy clouds pass south of us to the eastward. I am now nearly helpless; my legs are unable to support the weight of my body, and, when I do walk a little way, I am obliged to have the assistance of one of the party, and the pains caused by walking are most excruciating. I get little sleep night or day. I must endure my sufferings with patience, and submit to the will of the Almighty, who, I trust, will soon send me some relief. Wind variable.
Friday, 17th October, The Taylor. Still heavy clouds during the night and day, but no rain will fall. Still very ill. About three o'clock p.m. Thring returned; he has been to Anna Reservoir and found plenty of water, and a number of natives camped at it, who ran off the moment they saw him; he watered his horse and recrossed the range, not thinking it prudent to camp where there were so many of them. He has met with the same description of weather that we have had up here, thunder and lightning with a heavy, cloudy sky, but nothing but a light shower or two of rain. I shall move the party on to the Hanson to-morrow, and, if I am able to ride, shall push on to-morrow. Wind variable; sky still overcast.
Saturday, 18th October, The Taylor. Started at twenty minutes to eight for the Hanson; sky still overcast with heavy clouds. We had two light showers during the journey. I am now so helpless that I have to be lifted into the saddle. I endured the pain of riding for the first seventeen miles far better than I expected; after that it became almost unbearable, and camped at twenty-four miles, having found as much water in the rocks of the Stirling as will do for the horses to-night and to-morrow morning, left from a shower of rain, for which I am very thankful. I could not have gone on more than three miles. I was then enduring the greatest pain and agony that it is possible for a man to suffer. On being lifted from the horse, all power was gone out of my legs, and when I attempted to put the weight of my body on them the pain was most excruciating. Still heavy clouds about, indicating rain. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 19th October, The Stirling. I had a few hours' sound sleep last night, which I find has done me a deal of good. During the early part of the night two heavy showers of rain fell, and left plenty of water for the horses; got them up, and saddled and proceeded to the Hanson. At eight miles arrived there, finding the party all well; they had not been troubled with the natives except by their coming down to the water during the night time, and bringing into the hole a quantity of sand with them. I had to be taken from horseback nearly in the same state as yesterday. Wind, south-east.
Monday, 20th October, The Hanson. Started early; passed the Centre; crossed the upper part of the Hanson, and at five miles beyond it camped. Distance, thirty-five miles. Not a drop of rain seems to have fallen for a long time. During the whole day's journey this has been a terrible day of agony for me; nine hours and a half in the saddle. I had to be taken from my horse in the same helpless state as before. My feet and legs are now very much swollen; round the ankles they are quite black, and the pain is dreadful. I still continue to take the bicarb of potash, but it has little or no effect. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 21st October, South of the Centre. About sunrise started for Anna Reservoir, and at 5.30 p.m. arrived there, completely exhausted. Wind, variable. Heavy clouds from the south-east.
Wednesday, 22nd October, Anna Reservoir. Last night I was so completely overcome by fatigue and exhaustion that I had no sleep during the whole of the night, which makes me feel very ill indeed this morning. I shall be obliged to remain here to-day and to-morrow, to see if that will recruit my strength and enable me to perform the long journeys to the McDonnell range. About twelve o'clock heavy thundery weather to the west and south.
Saturday, 23rd October, Anna Reservoir. I shall rest to-day and have what shoes there are left put on the horses. I, with William Auld, will proceed to-morrow about ten miles in advance, to divide the long journey into two, for I have not strength to do it in one day. Wind variable.
Friday, 24th October, Anna Reservoir. Started early, taking with me Thring, King, and Auld, with one pack-horse to carry my tent, water, etc. Proceeded through the thick mulga scrub, and at ten miles camped, which I find is quite as much as I am able to do. Had my tent put up, and myself carried into it. Sent Thring and King back with the horses to the Reservoir, keeping Auld with me. The party will start from the Reservoir early to-morrow morning, pick me up, and proceed to Mount Harris. Wind, east.
Saturday, 25th October, Mulga Scrub South of Anna Reservoir. A few minutes before ten o'clock a.m. the party arrived all right. I was soon ready and lifted up into the saddle, and started at 10.10. During the day it has been excessively hot. At 5.45 p.m. arrived at Mount Harris, being nearly eight hours in the saddle, which is far more than I am able to endure in my terribly weak state. It is between my shoulder-blades and the small of my back that I am so much affected while riding. When the pain from them becomes unbearable I endeavour to get on as far as I can by supporting my weight upon my arms until they give way. I arrived here in a state of utmost exhaustion; so much so that I was quite unable to eat a single mouthful of anything. After we had the horses unpacked, a few natives made their appearance on the side of the mount, calling out something and pointing to the north-east. Sent Thring and King to see if they could make anything of them, but they soon ran down the other side of the mount, and, when seen again, were marching off in the direction they had pointed out. They had taken good care before leaving to use nearly all the water in the crevices of the granite rocks; they left about a quart. Finding it quite impossible to remain so long in the saddle as I have done to-day, I got Mr. Kekwick and some of the others to construct a stretcher during the night, which I hope will enable me to do a long journey to-morrow. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 26th October, Mount Harris. Had the stretcher placed between two horses. Had great difficulty before we could get two that would allow it to be passed between them. At last succeeded in getting two that we thought would do very well, as they seemed to go very quietly with it. I shall continue on horseback until I find that I have got enough of it. Started a little after sunrise. I found I could continue two hours and a half in the saddle without fatiguing myself too much. Having done this, I sent to the rear of the party for the stretcher, when, to my great disappointment and vexation, I found that a short time before something had annoyed one of the horses, which set to and kicked it all to pieces, which is a great misfortune. I continued in the saddle, and proceeded until I was exhausted, which happened at the end of fifteen miles, when I was compelled to stop. Keeping Auld with me, and some water, I sent on the party and all the horses to Mount Hay. If they find water they are to camp and return for me to-morrow; if not, they are to push on to the Hamilton Spring; if that is gone, they will have to cross the range to Brinkley Bluff. I find myself getting weaker and weaker every day. I am very ill indeed. Wind, south-east.
Monday, 27th October, Hills North of Mount Hay. About 11.30 a.m. King and Nash returned for me. Thring had found water in one of the gullies, but the approach to it was very rough and stony indeed. Thring had gone to see if there was any water in the clay-pans that I had camped at on my journey up, and if there is, will take the party over there, and will send one of the men to meet me and inform me of it. The distance from here to the water is ten miles. Had the horses saddled; mounted, and proceeded towards it. At the end of two hours the motion of the horse became so dreadful to me, and the pain I was suffering from was such as no language can describe; but I still continued in the saddle, and, within a mile and a half of the water, met Frew, whom Thring had sent to say that he had found plenty of water in the clay-pans, with green grass, and that the party had moved on to it. Distance from where we were then to the clay-pans, six miles further. I could no more sit in the saddle that distance than I could fly; I am now already completely exhausted, and have still a mile and a half to ride before I can reach the other water. To that I must go, and see what a night's rest will do in the morning. While taking a drink of water, I was seized with a violent fit of vomiting blood and mucus, which lasted about five minutes, and nearly killed me. Sent Frew on to the party. Went on the best way I could with the other three to the water. Arrived there feeling worse than I have ever done before. I have told King and Nash to remain with me in case of my dying during the night, as it would be lonely for one young man to be here by himself. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 28th October, Mount Hay. Started in the cool of the morning, and in two hours reached where the party were camped, so much exhausted and so completely done up that I could not speak a word—the power of speech has completely left me. I was lifted from the saddle and placed under the shade of a mulga bush. In about ten minutes I recovered my speech. I find that I can no longer sit on horseback; gave orders for some of the party to make a sort of reclining seat, to be carried between two horses, one before the other; also gave orders that a horse was to be shot at sundown, as we are getting rather short of meat, and I hope the change of beef tea made from fresh meat will give me some increase of strength, for I am now reduced to a perfect skeleton, a mere shadow. At sundown had the horse shot; fresh meat to the party is now a great treat. I am denied participating in that pleasure, from the dreadful state in which my mouth still is. I can chew nothing, and all that I have been living on is a little beef tea, and a little boiled flour, which I am obliged to swallow. To-night I feel very ill, and very, very low indeed. Wind, south-east, with a few clouds.
Wednesday, 29th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. This morning I feel a little relieved in comparison with my exhausted state of yesterday. I had a very troubled night's rest. All hands cutting up the horse, and hanging up the meat to dry. Thring and Nash out for two long poles to fix the chair in, which they succeeded in finding. At twelve o'clock had all the meat of the horse cut up and hung up to dry. Day oppressively hot. Wind, south-east. Clouds.
Thursday, 30th October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I think I am a little better this morning, but still very weak and helpless. Find that the chair will not answer the purpose, and must have a stretcher instead. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 31st October, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. I felt a little improvement this morning, which I hope will continue; and I think I have reached the turn of this terrible disease. On Tuesday night I certainly was in the grasp of death; a cold clammy perspiration, with a tremulous motion, kept creeping slowly over my body during the night, and everything near me had the smell of decaying mortality in the last stage of decomposition and of the grave. I sincerely thank the Almighty Giver of all Good, that He, in His infinite goodness and mercy, gave me strength and courage to overcome the grim and hoary-headed king of terrors, and has kindly permitted me yet to live a little longer in this world. Auld, who was in attendance upon me on that night, informed me that my breath smelt the same as the atmosphere of a room in which a dead body had been kept for some days. What a sad difference there is from what I am now and what I was when the party left North Adelaide! My right hand nearly useless to me by the accident from the horse; total blindness after sunset—although the moon shines bright to others, to me it is total darkness—and nearly blind during the day; my limbs so weak and painful that I am obliged to be carried about; my body reduced to that of a living skeleton, and my strength that of infantine weakness—a sad, sad wreck of former days. Wind variable.
Saturday, 1st November, Clay-pans East of Mount Hay. Although in such a weak state, I shall try if I can ride in the stretcher as far as Hamilton Springs. Started early; found the stretcher to answer very well. On arriving at the springs, saw that there was not sufficient water for the horses, and, as I had stood this part of the journey so well, made up my mind to cross the range to Brinkley Bluff. Proceeded, and arrived there about five o'clock p.m. I have stood the long journey far better than I expected, but feel very tired and worn out. Wind variable. Cloudy.
Sunday, 2nd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Got a few hours' good sleep during the night, and feel a good deal better this morning. Day still cloudy. Wind variable.
Monday, 3rd November, Brinkley Bluff, The Hugh. Started at 7.30 a.m. for Owen Springs. Saw where one of the horses died that I was compelled to leave behind on coming up. As there is only the hair of his mane and tail to be seen, and not a single bone, I am inclined to think that he has been killed, carried off, and eaten by the natives. I expect the other one has shared the same fate. At 2.20 p.m. arrived at the springs. Plenty of water. I have stood the journey very well, but am very tired. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 4th November, Owen Springs, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 a.m., passing through the gorge of the Waterhouse range. At 1.20 arrived at the springs under the conglomerate rock, a mile and a half north-east of the gorge in James range. I feel the shaking of the stretcher very much, and am again very tired, but am glad to find that I am getting a little stronger. Wind, south-east. The clouds are all gone.
Wednesday, 5th November, Spring, Conglomerate Rock, The Hugh. Started at 7.25 a.m. Passed through the gorge of James range and proceeded to the side creek in which water was obtained on coming up. Found some still there. Camped. Sent four of the party to clear out the hole; in the meantime sent Thring up the side creek to see if there is any surface water left from the showers of rain that have fallen here some short time ago. Since leaving the McDonnell range we have had plenty of green grass, showing that rain has fallen some time back; it has made no impression upon the large creek, which is quite dry. In a short time Thring returned; he has seen as much as will do for forty horses to-night, which is a good thing. Sent him up with them, and watered the remainder at this hole, into which the water comes very slowly, in consequence of the main creek having none in its bed below the sand. I again feel tired from the shaking of the horses and the stretcher. The swelling of my gums and the black blisters, which have been so very painful for such a long time back, are slowly giving way before some vegetable food which I have been able to get since coming into the green, grassy country; I hope it will soon cure me. My teeth are still loose, but it is a great thing to get a little relief from a great mouthful of swollen, blistered, and most painful gums. When my mouth was closed I had scarcely room for my tongue; the blisters are now much reduced. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 6th November, The Hugh. Started at 7.20 towards the Finke; at five p.m. met with some water in a clay-pan, and camped. I am a little stronger to-day, and feel that I am gradually improving. Wind, south-east. Night and morning cool.
Friday, 7th November, North of the Finke. Proceeded to Pascoe Springs in the Finke; found plenty of water and camped. Day oppressively hot. Wind, south-east.
Saturday, 8th November, Pascoe Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Sullivan Creek and found sufficient water to do for us until Monday morning, and this being a place for feed for the horses, I shall remain here until that time. I feel very tired and sore after this rough week's work, and am glad of a day's rest. I feel a gradual improvement in my health and strength, which I hope will continue to increase. Wind variable, mostly from south-east.
Sunday, 9th November, Sullivan Creek. During the night had a few drops of rain; heavy clouds to the west, north-west, north, north-east, and east. Wind blowing strong and variable. Sundown: the sky overcast with heavy clouds.
Monday, 10th November, Sullivan Creek. Some of the horses missing this morning. Did not get a start till nine o'clock a.m. Day oppressively hot. Crossed the Finke three times, and arrived at Polly Springs, where there is plenty of water. Camped. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 11th November, Polly Springs, The Finke. Proceeded to Marchant Springs. Camped. The water is low and rather boggy. Dug a place about eighteen inches deep in the firm ground, and the water came boiling up. I am happy to find that I am gaining a little strength again. I was able to walk two or three steps by leaning upon two of the party, but the pain was very severe. Wind, south-east; a few clouds about.
Wednesday, 12th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. As I am not certain of water at the next two camps, I will rest the horses as well as myself here to-day, for we both require it very much; it will enable them to stand a long push if required. A number of showers of rain seem to have fallen here this month. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 13th November, Marchant Springs, The Finke. Started at 7.40. Proceeded towards the Goyder, and at nine miles found myself in as dry a country as ever; not a drop of rain seems to have fallen here for upwards of twelve months. On arriving at the Goyder found a little moisture at the bottom of the sand in the rocks—not enough for the horses. Pushed on towards the Coglin, and at dark camped in the mulga scrub without water. Day most oppressively hot. Light wind from south-east.
Friday, 14th November, Mulga Scrub. Started at six o'clock a.m. Examined the different creeks in which I found water on my journey to the north but there was not a drop. At twelve miles reached the Coglin—none there. Country all in the same dry state. Proceeded on to the Lindsay, where I am sure of water. At four o'clock arrived there and found plenty. Camped. Thanks be to God, I am once more within the boundary of South Australia! I little expected it about a fortnight ago. If the summer rain has fallen to the south of this, there will be little difficulty in my getting down. I am again suffering very much from exhaustion, caused by a severe attack of dysentery, which has thrown me back a good deal in the strength I was collecting so quickly, but I hope it will not continue long. Wind, south-east.
Saturday, 15th November, The Lindsay. At day-break I have sent Thring to the Stevenson to see if there is water there, either on the surface or by digging in the sand; if there is I shall move the party over there to-day, and on Monday morning start for the Hamilton (I expect no water between); and if not, I shall remain here till that time and push for the Hamilton. About ten o'clock a.m. he returned and reported no water, only a little moisture on the top of the clay beneath the sand. Day very hot. I still continue to be very unwell. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 16th November, The Lindsay. Day oppressively hot. Light winds, south-east.
Monday, 17th November, The Lindsay. Started soon after sunrise, crossed the Stevenson and the Ross; both quite dry. Proceeded across Bagot range to the gum water-hole; that is also dry. Found a little rain water in one of the small creeks, but not enough for all the horses. The day being excessively hot, the journey very rough and stony, and many of them lame from want of shoes, also it being near sundown, and there being a little green grass about, I have camped. Wind variable.
Tuesday, 18th November, The Gums, Bagot Range. Started at 5.40 a.m. to the large waterhole in the Hamilton; in about a mile found some rain water, which I allowed the horses to drink. At 10 a.m. arrived at the large water-hole, and found it very low indeed; a great number of dead fish all round it. This must certainly be a very unprecedentedly dry season indeed; this water-hole does not seem to have received any water for the last two years. The water being old and stagnant, I am afraid will make us ill; we have all already been suffering much from stagnant waters we have been compelled to use. I, however, must give the horses a day's rest to enable them to make the next and last push, nearly a hundred miles, to the first springs. From the dryness of the season, I scarcely expect to find water before I reach them, which will be a severe trial for the horses, the weather being so extremely hot. I am still suffering very much from the effect of the stagnant waters; they have sent me back again nearly to my former state of weakness, and have assisted in checking my recovery from the scurvy, which is now again gaining ground upon me since I lost the vegetable food. The country being now so dry, there having been no late rain, there is not a blade of grass to be seen. Hot wind from the north. This is the first and only hot wind I have felt during the whole journey from Mount Margaret to the sea-coast, and back to this place. In the afternoon the sky became overcast with heavy clouds. At sundown the wind changed to west, and blew very strong till eleven o'clock p.m.; we then had a few drops of rain, but not enough to moisten the surface of the ground; after this it became calm, the clouds broken, and there was no more of it.
Wednesday, 19th November, The Hamilton. This morning still cloudy, but excessively close and hot. I am glad that I resolved to remain here to-day, for the poor horses would have felt it very much travelling over the high and heavy sand hills that we have to go over in the first day's journey. In the afternoon the sky again became overcast with heavy clouds, and there was a great deal of thunder and lightning to the west and north, and again, at the same time as last night, we were favoured with a few drops of rain; the result the same as it was then. Wind variable and squally.
Thursday, 20th November, The Hamilton. This morning the clouds have cleared away, but there is a nice cool strong breeze from the south-east and east—a fine thing for the horses crossing the heavy sand hills. Started at six o'clock a.m. Got over them very well, and reached the mulga plain. About twelve the wind ceased, and it became very hot. In the afternoon one of the horses (Trussell) began to show symptoms of being very ill. One of the party was riding him at the time. I had him changed immediately and allowed him to run loose, but he seemed to have lost all spirit and soon dropped behind. I then had him led and driven for upwards of two miles until I reached the Frew or Upper Neale. The dreadfully dry state of the country since leaving the sand hills—it being completely parched up—leaving me no hope of getting water until I reached the gap in Hanson range or the Freeling Springs, and it being quite impossible for us to drag him on there, I was compelled to abandon him, as it would only knock up the other horses to drive him on. Proceeded through a still parched-up country to the large dry lagoon, and at dark camped without water. Wind, south-east.
Friday, 21st November, Large Dry Lagoon. Started at break of day through some low sand hills, with valleys and clay-pans, all dry. At a little more than six miles after starting, I was rather surprised to find recent tracks of horses that had been feeding on and about our tracks. Thinking it might be a party out looking for us, as I have now been some time longer than I anticipated at starting, I sent Thring to examine and see how many horses there were. In about half an hour he returned, and said that he could only make out two, and those I immediately concluded were two of the horses that had given in near this place on my journey to the north. Proceeded on to the camp where I had buried the two hundred pounds of sugar, frequently meeting their tracks, apparently in search of water. Arrived at the camp, but there is not a drop there, and no appearance of the two horses, but only their tracks in the bed of the creek, following it down to the eastward, where there must be permanent water that has supplied them during the past year. A thunder-shower must have brought them out to visit the spot where they were first left. I should have liked very much to have regained them, but the dry state of the country and the want of water will not allow me to look for them. Found that the things buried had been disturbed, and most of them carried away by the natives—the others all destroyed—the sugar all gone, except about five pounds, which was left in the hole and covered up. Proceeded, crossing side branches of the Neale, but not a drop of water in any of them—everything dried up. Went on towards the gap in Hanson range. At about eight miles before reaching it, Frew's horse (Holland) knocked up with him; he could not get him on a step further, and had to leave him. On reaching the Lindsay, this horse had been allowed by Frew to drink too much water, and had not recovered from the effects of it. At dark arrived at the gap, and found plenty of water, for which I am very thankful, for there are many of the horses that would not have stood another day's journey without it. Day exceedingly hot. Wind, south-east.
Saturday, 22nd November, Gap in Hanson Range. Resting horses, etc. Sent Frew in search of his horse shortly after sunrise. About half-past two he returned, and reports that he cannot be found; that he had searched round about the creeks and gullies where he had been left, but could find nothing of him, and the country was too stony to track him. Day again very hot.
Sunday, 23rd November, Gap in Hanson Range. Started at six o'clock a.m., intending to get to Freeling Springs, but one of the horses that had eaten poison about the Roper country, and has never recovered from it, but was always very poor, and of no use whatever, knocked up, and would not move a step further; being only six miles from where we started, we left him and proceeded on our journey. About this time the wind changed to the north, and it came on to blow a fierce hot wind, and by the middle of the day it was almost unbearable. Two more of the horses knocked up, and being nearly opposite the McEllister Springs, I turned to them and camped. These springs required to be dug out before we could get water enough for all the horses. After opening two of them, we found them to yield a sufficient supply. Still continuing to blow a terrific hot wind from the north. A little before sundown it changed, and came on to blow from the south, and blew the hot wind back again. For three hours it was as hot as when coming from the north.
Monday, 24th November McEllister Springs. Proceeded to the Freeling Springs and camped. This journey was as much as the horses are now able to do. The stagnant and spring waters have weakened them so much that I shall be compelled to rest them some time at Mr. Jarvis's, Levi's station, before they will be able to perform the remainder of the journey to Adelaide, that is, if I can get them that length.
Tuesday, 25th November, Freeling Springs. Found one of the chestnut horses that was left here. The other one seems to have been taken on to Mr. Jarvis's. Started shortly after sunrise. Proceeded to the Milne Springs and camped. The day again extremely hot. Wind still from the south-east. Twenty miles a day is now as much as my horses can accomplish.
Wednesday, 26th November, Milne Springs. Proceeded to Mr. Jarvis's station, Mount Margaret, which I expected to reach without losing any more horses, but I am disappointed, for I had to leave four behind knocked up, which I shall be able to recover to-morrow or the next day. Mr. Jarvis being from home, we were received by his men with a hearty welcome, and were shown every kindness and attention that was in their power. Day again very hot. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 27th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses. Sent out and had the one that knocked up about two miles from here brought in. I am still very ill, but am able to walk a few yards without assistance. I hope a few days will benefit me much. Day very hot. Wind, south-east. Clouds.
Friday, 28th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses. Still cloudy. Promising rain. Sent out and had the other three knocked-up horses brought in all right. Yesterday got in the other chestnut horse left at the Freeling Springs, and brought down here by Woodforde. Clouds breaking up. No rain. Wind, south-east.
Saturday, 29th November, Mount Margaret Station. Resting horses, etc. I find the scurvy is fast gaining upon me, although I have had fresh meat for the last few days. I must therefore push on as fast as possible down the country, in order to get some vegetables. I shall start to-morrow evening, and travel during the night to the William Spring to avoid the great heat of the day, taking with me the stretcher (for I am not yet able to ride), three men, and the strongest horses, leaving the rest here for another week to recover with remainder of the party in command of Mr. Kekwick, who, as soon as the horses are sufficiently strong, will conduct the party to Adelaide. Clouds all gone. Wind, south-east.
Sunday, 30th November, Near Mount Margaret Station. Started at five p.m. for the William Spring with fourteen horses, leaving the weak and done-up ones at Mount Margaret for another week to recover. I have also brought on with me Auld, King, and Billiatt. The others I have left with Mr. Kekwick, to whom I have given command of the party, and who will conduct them to Adelaide by easy stages, as soon as the horses are able to travel. I travelled during the night, and arrived at the spring a little before six a.m. Camped, unsaddled the horses, and turned them in amongst the young reeds to feed, which they seemed very eager for.
Monday, 1st December, William Spring. During the day the horse that I was compelled to leave here on my northward journey came towards the others, but appeared very shy. I left him alone till nearly sundown, when I sent King to see if he had joined them, and to see if the others were all right. At dark he returned, and reported them to be all right, and that the other had joined them. He tried to catch him, but that he would not allow, so he left him with the others during the night. The day has been very close and oppressive, with heavy clouds and distant thunder. I am glad I performed this long journey during the night. Wind, south-east. Clouds all gone.
Tuesday, 2nd December, William Spring. Got all the horses into camp, and attempted to catch the stranger, but could not without roping him; I therefore drove him along with the others to the Beresford Springs, and then he allowed himself to be caught and hobbled. The journey has quieted him. It is the longest journey he has had for nearly twelve months. I arrived about four o'clock p.m., and there being plenty of young reeds, camped. The day has been again very hot, but occasionally strong breezes from the south-east and east.
Wednesday, 3rd December, Beresford Springs. Proceeded to Mount Hamilton Station, where I received a very kind reception from Mr. Brown, and was treated with the greatest possible kindness. Toward evening I again felt very ill. Day very hot. Wind, south-east.
Thursday, 4th December, Mount Hamilton Station. I have been very ill during the night, but started for Chambers Creek. Arrived there about mid-day, where I again experienced a like hospitable reception and great kindness from Mr. Lee. Wind variable. Day extremely hot.
Friday, 5th December, Chambers Creek. I shall require to rest my horses here to-day. I was in great hopes that when I reached this place I should have been again able to have ridden on horseback, but the waters of the spring country through which I have just passed have reduced me nearly to my former state of weakness, and I shall still be compelled to continue in the ambulance a little longer. I feel a little better this morning—I suppose in consequence of drinking fresh water. Hot wind from the north. Towards evening a heavy thunderstorm coming from the westward.
Saturday, 6th December, Chambers Creek. Started at eight o'clock with the ambulance towards Termination Hill. After crossing numerous sand hills, we frequently found rain water. Towards sundown arrived at the south side of Porter Hill. Found rain water, and camped, one of the horses being nearly knocked up. I shall be compelled to take to the saddle to-morrow, for the ambulance horses will not be able to carry me further. I must send them back to the creek, there to rest till the others come down. Cloudy. Wind variable.
Sunday, 7th December, Porter Hill. Mounted and started at six a.m. I find that I can endure the motion of the horse better than I expected; but about mid-day began to feel it very much. Towards four o'clock found some rain water about ten miles from Termination Hill, for which I am very thankful, for I could not have continued the journey any further. Camped. Wind variable.
Monday, 8th December, Termination Hill. During the night had a heavy thunderstorm and shower from the south-east. Started at six a.m. and arrived at Mr. Glen's Station at sundown, quite done up; received a hearty welcome. Encountered a heavy storm of thunder and lightning a few miles from the station. Wind, south-east.
Tuesday, 9th December, Mr. Glen's Station. Proceeded to Mount Stuart Station, where I had the pleasure of meeting Mr. John Chambers, who received me with great kindness. There has been some heavy rain here lately. Wind, south-east. Day hot.
Wednesday, 10th December, Mount Stuart Station. Accompanied by Mr. Chambers, proceeded to Moolooloo, and arrived there in the afternoon completely tired and exhausted from riding in the saddle. Day hot. Wind, east.
In conclusion, I beg to say, that I believe this country (i.e., from the Roper to the Adelaide and thence to the shores of the Gulf), to be well adapted for the settlement of an European population, the climate being in every respect suitable, and the surrounding country of excellent quality and of great extent. Timber, stringy-bark, iron-bark, gum, etc., with bamboo fifty to sixty feet high on the banks of the river, is abundant, and at convenient distances. The country is intersected by numerous springs and watercourses in every direction. In my journey across I was not fortunate in meeting with thunder showers or heavy rains; but, with the exception of two nights, I was never without a sufficient supply of water. This will show the permanency of the different waters, and I see no difficulty in taking over a herd of horses at any time; and I may say that one of our party, Mr. Thring, is prepared to do so. My party have conducted themselves throughout this long and trying journey to my entire satisfaction; and I may particularly mention Messrs. Kekwick and Thring, who had been with me on my former expedition. During my severe illness every attention and sympathy were shown to me by every one in the party, and I herewith beg to record to them my sincere thanks.
I may here mention that the accident which occurred to me at the starting of the Expedition from Adelaide has rendered my right hand almost useless for life.
The Journal concludes with the following letter:
To the Honourable H.B.T. Strangways, Commissioner of Crown Lands and Immigration.
Adelaide, December 18, 1862.
Sir,
For the information of His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief, I have the honour to report to you my return to Adelaide, after an absence of twelve months and thirteen days; and I herewith beg to hand you my chart and journals of the Expedition from which I have just returned.
To you, Sir, and the Government, my especial thanks are due for the liberal manner in which the supplies were voted, and for the kind and ready assistance I at all times experienced. Also to George Hamilton, Esquire, Chief Inspector of Police, for the efficient manner in which my party was fitted out. The original promoters of my various expeditions, Messrs. James Chambers and William Finke, have always shown the most lively interest in my success, to which they cheerfully contributed. How much I regret the unexpected decease of the first-named gentleman I need here hardly state, for he was indeed heart and soul in the result, and no one would have felt so proud of my success as my much-lamented and best friend James Chambers. To Mr. John Chambers I am also under many obligations for assistance in many instances, and I hereby tender him my best thanks.
I have the honour, etc.,
J.M. STUART.