FOOTNOTES

FOOTNOTES[1]Chapter v of volume ii of the original edition.—Ed.[2]For this island, now called Sauvie’s, see our volume xxi, p. 300, notes 85, 86. The root is described in our volume vi, p. 278, note 87.—Ed.[3]The Clackamas River, for which see our volume xxi, p. 320, note 105.—Ed.[4]The land at the Falls of the Willamette was a private possession of Dr. John McLoughlin, who took up the claim in 1829, making some improvements. His rights were first contested by members of the Methodist mission. Later, after he had become a naturalized American citizen, he was deprived thereof by legislative act—an injustice which was corrected in 1862, when the land was restored to the heirs of the estate. The town site at this place was platted as Oregon City (a name still retained), and for some years was the seat of government and metropolis of Oregon.—Ed.[5]Tualatin River, draining the present Washington County, was a fertile valley early settled. About 1852 the river was by private enterprise made navigable for some distance.—Ed.[6]William Johnson, an English sailor who had deserted to the Americans, and served on the “Constitution” in the fight with the “Guerrière.” He afterwards became a trapper in the Hudson’s Bay service, and came to Oregon (1839) to settle with his native wife and family. He served as sheriff in the first provisional government. He appears later to have removed his claim to the lower Willamette, in the neighborhood of South Portland. According to Dr. McLoughlin’s statement, Oregon Historical SocietyQuarterlyi, p. 197, he “left by sea and never returned to Oregon.”—Ed.[7]For Thomas McKay consult our volume xxi, p. 201, note 46. His father is noted in Franchère’sNarrative, our volume vi, p. 186, note 9.—Ed.[8]Townsend was at Fort Vancouver when Bailey was brought in wounded, after his contest with the Rogue River Indians. See hisNarrativein our volume xxi, pp. 328-330.Mrs. Bailey was a Miss Margaret Smith, who came out in 1837 to reinforce the Methodist mission.—Ed.[9]The blacksmith and tinker were apparently Thomas J. Hubbard and Calvin Tibbitts, who came to Oregon with Wyeth. See for the former, W. H. Gray,History of Oregon(Portland, Oregon, 1870), pp. 191, 198; for the latter our volume xxi, p. 73, note 50. Both were instrumental in laying the foundations of the Oregon provisional government.—Ed.[10]This mission was under the care of Father Blanchet, and was founded the year of Farnham’s visit. It was located twelve miles above Champoeg, on the east bank of the river. See De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 320, note 164.—Ed.[11]For the founding and site of this mission see our volume xxi, p. 299, note 84. The school was later (about 1842) removed to Salem, and the headquarters established there.—Ed.[12]Dr. Elijah White, a native of New York state, came out as missionary physician in 1837. After serving about four years at the mission, he had some disagreement with its superintendent, and returned to the states. He then received the appointment at Washington of “sub-Indian agent for Oregon,” an office with indeterminate duties, anomalous in character. Once more in Oregon, Dr. White was zealous in execution of the business of his office as he conceived it, but antagonized many of the settlers thereby and found himself in disfavor; so that upon visiting Washington in 1845 he was not able to secure the renewal of his appointment. He returned to Oregon, however, and in 1861 was employed as special Indian agent. In later life he removed to San Francisco, where he died in March, 1879.—Ed.[13]Rev. David (not Daniel) Leslie came to the Methodist mission with the second reinforcement of 1837. His ability was at once recognized, and during Jason Lee’s absence he acted as superintendent. In 1838 at the request of the American settlers he served them as justice of the peace. The first meeting for a provisional government was held under his presidency (1841). Upon the dissolution of the mission he became a Methodist preacher, making his home in and about Salem, where he was chaplain of the first territorial legislature, and for many years president of the board of trustees of Willamette University. With the exception of a few months in the Sandwich Islands (1842-43), his life was practically spent in Oregon, where he was highly respected for the probity and purity of his character.—Ed.[14]J. L. Whitcomb came out in 1837 as a lay member of the mission. His duties were the superintendence of the farms. In 1842 he married the widow of Cyrus Shepard, and the same year, because of broken health, returned to the United States.Alanson Beers, from Connecticut, also came (1837) as a lay member of the mission, and remained in Oregon until his death in 1853. He was one of the executive committee of three appointed by the provisional government, and treasurer of the board of trustees of Oregon Institute.—Ed.[15]Farnham forwarded the petition to Congress from Honolulu, in January, 1840, accompanied by a letter of his own in which he sharply criticized the conduct of the Hudson’s Bay Company—seeSenate Docs., 27 Cong., 3 sess., 102. The petition or memorial, which is largely the work of Farnham, was presented to the senate June 4, 1840, by Senator Lewis Linn of Missouri. It may be found inSenate Docs., 26 Cong., 1 sess., 514, signed “David Leslie and others;”Cong. Globe, 26 Cong., 1 sess., 440, reports seventy signers. The memorial requests Congress to establish a territorial government, notes that the British are, through the Hudson’s Bay Company, granting lands, surveying harbors, bays, and rivers, cutting and shipping timber, and preparing to hold all the territory north of the Columbia. It describes the country south of that river as “of unequalled beauty and fertility,” “a delightful and healthy climate,” and “one of the most favored portions of the globe;” and concludes by praying for the “civil institutions of the American Republic,” “the high privileges of American citizenship; the peaceful enjoyment of life; the right of acquiring, possessing, and using property; and the unrestrained pursuit of rational happiness.”—Ed.[16]An act of parliament was passed (about 1837) at the instigation of Dr. McLoughlin, extending the jurisdiction and civil laws of Canada over the British subjects of Oregon territory. Under this law James Douglas was commissioned justice of the peace for criminal matters and for civil suits under £200 in value. Imprisonment was possible either in the forts of the Hudson’s Bay Company or the jails of Canada.—Ed.[17]W. H. Wilson had in early life been a cooper on a whaling vessel. Having been converted to Methodism, he came out to Oregon in 1837 as a lay helper, and studied medicine with Dr. Elijah White. In 1840 he married Chloe A. Clark of the mission, who afterwards became first teacher of the Oregon Institute, of which her husband was for some time agent. They made their home in Salem, where he died suddenly of apoplexy. Wilson was the treasurer of the first provisional government of Oregon.—Ed.[18]For Ewing Young see our volume xx, p. 23, note 2.—Ed.[19]The reader will take notice that this is an ex-parte statement.—English Editor.[20]For the origin of this northern boundary, see our volume xxviii, note 1.—Ed.[21]For David Thompson, a former North West explorer, see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, p. 253, note 61. Exclusive of the Alaskan mountains, there have been no peaks measured in the Rocky Mountain system exceeding 14,500 feet in height.—Ed.[22]Mount Brown is in British Columbia, about latitude 52° 28′ north, not far from Athabasca Pass. It was formerly thought to be above 15,000 feet in height, but recent measurements have reduced it to less than 10,000.—Ed.[23]This is Athabasca Pass, first discovered by David Thompson in 1811—see Elliott Coues,Henry-Thompson Journals(New York, 1897), ii, pp. 668, 669. Mount Hooker lay south of the pass, and Mount Brown to the north; the former is about 10,500 feet above sea level (once supposed to be more than 15,000 feet). For a description of the passage of this gap see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, pp. 352-357.—Ed.[24]The first of these passes is now known as Maria’s, and is that taken by the Great Northern Railway in crossing from Missouri waters to those of the Columbia. The second pass is probably intended to designate that taken by Lewis and Clark, who used not one, but several passes through the network of mountains in western Montana and eastern Idaho. The third is the pass from Henry’s Lake to Red Rock, the source of the Jefferson (not of the Big Horn), over which De Smet went with the Indians—see hisLettersin our volume xxvii, pp. 252, 253, notes 128, 130. The last is South Pass, for which see Wyeth’sOregonin our volume xxi, p. 58, note 37.—Ed.[25]These spurs from the mountains are not definable. Farnham simply implies them from the watersheds. Upon many of the older maps the Kooskooskee (modern Clearwater) is also called Salmon—leaving to the modern Salmon River the name of Wapiacakoos (Waptacaca, Waptiacoos).—Ed.[26]Mount St. Elias and Mount Fairweather belong to the Alaskan system, not to that of the Cascade or Presidents’ Range, which properly ends at Puget Sound. Mount St. Elias, the highest mountain save one in North America (18,090 feet) was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. Its ascent was accomplished in the summer of 1897 by the Italian explorer, the Duke of Abruzzi.Mount Fairweather, so named by the whalers, who predicted fair weather when the summit of this peak was free from clouds, has an altitude of 15,050 feet; it is located near Sitka, on the Alaskan coast.—Ed.[27]For Hall J. Kelley see our volume xxi, p. 24, note 6. In his “Memoir” to Congress,House Reports, 25 Cong., 3 sess., 101, he says: “The eastern section of the district referred to is bordered by a mountain range, running nearly parallel to the spine of the Rocky mountains and to the coast, and which, from the number of its elevated peaks, I am inclined to call the Presidents’ range.”—Ed.[28]The reader will remember that our Author is an American.—English Ed.[29]By Mount Tyler Farnham evidently intends Mount Baker, an extinct volcano in Whatcom County, Washington (altitude 10,827 feet), supposed to have shown symptoms of eruption as late as 1875. This peak was named by Vancouver (1792) for one of his officers. J. Q. Thornton,Oregon and California(New York, 1849), i, p. 256, calls this Mount Polk, and assigns the name of Tyler to “an elevation on the peninsula between Hood’s Canal and the ocean.”—Ed.[30]Evidently Mount Rainier, although incorrectly located, its distance and direction being somewhat deceptive. It is southeast (not northeast) of Puget Sound in Pierce County, Washington, the highest of the Cascade Range (14,526 feet). It was first noted by Vancouver in 1792, and named for a rear-admiral in the British navy. Its Indian name was Ta-ko-man, the white peak, hence its alternate name of Mount Tacoma.—Ed.[31]Mount Olympus, in Jefferson County, Washington (latitude 47° 50′ north, altitude 8,150 feet), was discovered originally by Perez (see our volume xxviii, p. 32, note 8), who named it Santa Rosalia. Captain John Meares (1785) bestowed its present appellation (see our volume vii, p. 112, note 17).—Ed.[32]In re-naming the Presidents’ Range there appears to have been considerable confusion in assigning the name of the first executive. Kelley intended the name to be given to Mount St. Helens, which at first Farnham adopted (seeante, our volume xxviii, p. 353, note 221). C. G. Nicolay,Oregon Territory(London, 1846), p. 209, says that St. Helens was called Mount Washington. Nevertheless, Farnham here applies the name of Adams to Mount St. Helens, and that of Washington to Mount Hood, for which latter see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, p. 248, note 54. Franchère applied the title Washington to Mount Jefferson; it has been finally attached to a peak south of Jefferson, in Linn County, Oregon.—Ed.[33]Mount Jefferson, on the eastern borders of Linn County, a height crowned with perpetual snow, was first sighted by Lewis and Clark on March 30, 1806, from the mouth of Willamette River. InOriginal Journals, iv, p. 223, Clark says: “discovered a high mountain, S. E. covered with snow which we call Mt. Jefferson.”—Ed.[34]Mount McLoughlin (Madison) is now called Diamond Peak; it is in the southeastern extremity of Lane County, and has an altitude of 8,807 feet.The mountain named for Monroe cannot now be definitely determined, because of confusion of nomenclature. It would seem from the latitude given by Kelley to have been intended for the present Mount Scott. Mount John Quincy Adams is the present Mount Pitt, which name was first assigned by the English to Mount Shasta; this, according to Thornton (op. cit.in note 29,ante), was also the Mount Monroe of the Americans. The term Mount Pitt is now applied to a volcanic peak (altitude 9,760 feet) on the borders of Jackson County, Oregon, eight miles west of Klamath Lake.—Ed.[35]Mount Shasta, of Siskiyou County, California, in latitude 41° 25′ north. Next to Rainier, Shasta is the highest peak of the Cascades, attaining 14,380 feet in altitude, and being perpetually capped with snow.—Ed.[36]For Cape Disappointment see our volume vi, p. 233, note 36.—Ed.[37]Boat Encampment, a noted place on the route to Canada, is described by Franchère in our volume vi, pp. 351, 352.—Ed.[38]For a brief history of Fort Okanagan see our volume vi, p. 260, note 71. Alexander Ross had charge of this post for several years; see his descriptions in our volume vii, pp. 151-159, 198-207, 272-319. Afterward it became a Hudson’s Bay post (in 1821, not 1819). See De Smet’s visit to this region in our volume xxvii, p. 372, note 193.—Ed.[39]For Spokane River, Lake Cœur d’Alène (Pointed Heart), and Spokane House, see De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 366, note 185. See also Ross’sOregon Settlers, our volume vii, pp. 207-222; also hisFur-Hunters of the Far West, i, pp. 137-139.—Ed.[40]For H. H. Spaulding see our volume xxi, p. 352, note 125. Fort Colville is described in De Smet’sLetters, our volume xxvii, p. 330, note 166.—Ed.[41]For Kettle Falls see our volume vi, p. 346, note 153.—Ed.[42]For Archibald McDonald, see our volume xxi, p. 344, note 119.—Ed.[43]Now known as Lower Arrow Lake, an expansion of the Columbia many miles in length, between 49° and 50° of north latitude.—Ed.[44]For the Flathead River, as here intended (now known as Clark’s Fork of the Columbia), see our volume vi, p. 348, note 155. Its sources are near those of the Missouri, not the Saskatchewan.—Ed.[45]For Lake Pend d’Oreille (Kalispel, Kullerspelm) see De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 339, note 175.Flathead House was built (November, 1809) by David Thompson, of the North West Company, and was maintained throughout the regime of the British fur-trade on the Northwest Coast. In 1824-25 Alexander Ross passed the winter there. It was a small fort tributary to Colville, and in charge usually of a trusted Canadian hunter or trapper. According to the report of 1854 it was situated east of Flathead Lake, on one of its smaller tributaries—Senate Docs., 33 Cong., 2 sess., vii, no. 37.—Ed.[46]This is the stream now known as Kootenai River, for which see our volume vi, p. 348, note 156. For the post of that name see our volume vii, p. 210, note 71. The small post was maintained on Kootenai River for nearly half a century. In 1854 it was reported as an inferior station, in charge of a Canadian as trader and postmaster.—Ed.[47]For the passage of these straits and Upper Arrow Lake, see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, pp. 348, 349.—Ed.[48]The Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the Columbia at Revelstoke just above the Lower Dalles of the river. The Upper or Little Dalles shut in the river for about a mile; these narrows are now navigated by local steamers.—Ed.[49]The “few miles” is about one hundred and fifty, in which the river passes through an almost continuous cañon—navigable by canoes, however, save at Dalles des Morts (Narrows of the Dead), so named for the number of accidents occurring therein. The canoe voyage ended at the upper bend of the Columbia, where Canoe River enters from the north, the Columbia coming from the southeast.—Ed.[50]The trail follows an affluent of the Columbia known as Little Canoe (or Portage) River, leading to Athabasca Pass. See Franchère’s description of the difficulties of the passage in our volume vi, pp. 352-354.—Ed.[51]For these lakes see our volume vi, p. 353, note 163.—Ed.[52]Fraser’s River, the largest stream wholly within the limits of British Columbia, rises near the source of the upper branch (Canoe River) of the Columbia, flows northwest for a hundred and ninety miles, and then turns abruptly south until at about latitude 49° 20′ north it bends west into the Strait of Georgia. Sir Alexander Mackenzie was upon its upper waters in 1793. The whole course of the river was explored by Simon Fraser (1808), who until he reached the river’s mouth supposed that he was upon the Columbia. See his “Journal” in L. R. Masson,Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord Ouest(Quebec, 1889), i, pp. 155-221.—Ed.[53]Probably Joseph McGillivray, for whom see our volume vi, p. 346, note 152. Fort Alexandria, on Fraser River, was built (1821) on the east bank of the stream to serve as a supply post, transmitting goods from the Columbia country. It was placed at the point where Sir Alexander Mackenzie turned back (1793), and was named in his honor. In 1836 the fort was removed to the west bank of the river. With varying fortunes the post has ever since been maintained; in 1863 a wagon road was opened as far as Alexandria to accommodate the inrush of miners.—Ed.[54]For the Similkameen River see our volume vii, p. 206, note 67.—Ed.[55]For the Luhon (Lowhum, now Des Chutes) and John Day rivers see our volume vii, p. 133, notes 32, 33; for the Umatilla and Walla Walla, volume vi, p. 338, notes 141, 142.—Ed.[56]Klamath River rises in southern Oregon, in the county of the same name, flows through Klamath lakes and breaks through the barrier of the Cascades about on the California boundary line. Thence flowing in a somewhat irregular course, it receives tributaries from Shasta and Siskiyou mountains, and enters the ocean in Del Norte County, California. It is about two hundred and seventy-five miles long, and navigable for about forty miles from its mouth. Gold and timber are found on its banks.—Ed.[57]For the Cowlitz River see our volume vi, p. 245, note 49. For Juan de Fuca Strait,ibid., p. 256, note 64.—Ed.[58]The Umpqua is noted in our volume vii, p. 231, note 82.—Ed.[59]This appears extravagant, but the fact cannot be disputed. It may be observed, however, that the wood, from its rapid growth, has but little weight—half that of the common pine or deal.—English Ed.[60]The Coquille River, which rises in several branches among the Coast Mountains and enters the ocean at Coos Bay, in the county of that name. It is navigable for small steamers for over thirty miles from its mouth.—Ed.[61]Coal was first exported from Washington in 1854; no more was mined until 1870, when the Seattle shafts were opened. Washington is known as the “Pennsylvania of the West” for the number and extent of its coal fields.—Ed.[62]On the organization and career of the North West Company see J. Long’sVoyagesin our volume ii, preface, pp. 15, 16. The difficulties with the Hudson’s Bay Company are briefly recounted by Franchère in our volume vi, pp. 379-381, particularly notes 195, 199.—Ed.[63]This lease was the result of a protest from Great Britain to the government of Russia for the attack by the latter upon a British brig entering the Stikeen River to found a fort. The Hudson’s Bay Company waived its claim for damages in virtue of this lease of the mainland of Russian America between Cape Spencer and 54° 40′ north latitude. After being several times renewed, the lease expired in 1868 upon the purchase of Alaska by the United States.—Ed.[64]See our volume vi, p. 377, note 191, for a description of York Factory.—Ed.[65]For further details of the system of the Hudson’s Bay Company see A. G. Morice,History of the Northern Interior of British Columbia, formerly New Caledonia(Toronto, 1904), pp. 99-116; also George Bryce,Remarkable History of Hudson’s Bay Company(Toronto, 1900).—Ed.[66]Henry Bliss,The Colonial System: Statistics of the trade, industry and resources of Canada and other Plantations in British America(London, 1833, not 1831).—Ed.[67]Andrew Henry, one of the partners of the Missouri Fur Company, in the autumn of 1818 built a post on the north fork of Lewis or Snake (Saptin) River. This was maintained only until the following spring, but is renowned for being the first American trading post on Columbian waters. The site was supposedly near Egin, Idaho, and the stream has since been known as Henry’s Fork.—Ed.[68]The North West Company decided (1805) to explore the region west of the Rockies and commissioned Simon Fraser to undertake it. In 1805 he built Fort McLeod, the first post in British Columbia. The next summer saw the establishment of two posts—St. James on Stuart Lake, and Fraser on Lake Fraser. Fort Fraser was begun by John Stuart and has been maintained until the present time.—Ed.[69]For the Astorian enterprise see our volumes v-vii.—Ed.[70]David Thompson, for whose arrival at Astoria see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, pp. 252-255.—Ed.[71]See Ross’sOregon Settlersin our volume vii, pp. 244-249.—Ed.[72]See our volume xxviii, p. 38, note 18.—Ed.[73]The joint occupancy of Oregon was not determined by the provisions of the Treaty of Ghent, but by a separate convention made (1818) at London. The renewal occurred as Farnham states, by the convention of 1827 signed at London by Albert Gallatin on the part of the United States, and Charles Grant and Henry U. Addington for Great Britain; seeTreaties and Conventions between the United States and Other Powers(Washington, 1889), pp. 415-418, 426, 427.—Ed.[74]For Fort Vancouver see our volume xxi, p. 297, note 82; the early history of Fort George is narrated in our volume vi, p. 241, note 42. After the headquarters of the fur company were withdrawn from Fort George, it was maintained chiefly as a post of observation to report incoming vessels; a single clerk lived at this place, raised vegetables and flowers in his garden, and welcomed travellers. The foundations of Fort George were visible at Astoria as late as 1870, but are now entirely built over.—Ed.[75]For Fort Nisqually see De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 386, note 203. Fort Langley was founded in 1827 upon the north bank of the Fraser, not far from the mouth; it was an important dépôt for supplying the interior posts. While James Yale was factor in charge the buildings were totally destroyed by fire (1840), but a new stockade was immediately erected. In 1858 Langley was the prospective capital of the newly-erected province of British Columbia, and a town site was surveyed about the fort; but being considered indefensible from a military point of view, and on the wrong side of the river, New Westminster was chosen instead and Fort Langley was abandoned.Fort McLoughlin was erected upon the seacoast in 1833, and placed in charge of Dr. Tolmie; but the location was insecure because of the hostility of the neighboring Indians, and it was therefore abandoned in 1843, the effects being removed to the newly-established Fort Camosum at Victoria.—Ed.[76]Fort Simpson, named in honor of Sir George, the Hudson’s Bay Company’s governor, was not upon Dundas Island, but on the mainland opposite. Its first site was six miles above the mouth of Nass River (1831). Three years later it was removed to the Chimsyan Peninsula, below Nass River—one of the finest harbors on the coast. It is still maintained as a Hudson’s Bay post, being known as Port Simpson; recent efforts have been made to make this a port of entry for Pacific Ocean traffic.—Ed.[77]For Fort Fraser seeante, p. 56, note 68. Fort St. James, at the outlet of Stuart Lake (latitude 54° 26′ north), was built in 1806 by Simon Fraser amid a large population of Indians, and has been maintained continuously to the present. After the advent of the Hudson’s Bay Company, Fort St. James was made the emporium of New Caledonia, the residence of a chief factor. In 1828 it was visited by Sir George Simpson, who entered in proper state with buglers and bagpipers, the governor and his suite mounted, amid the welcoming discharge of cannon and musketry (A. McDonald,Peace River, pp. 24, 25). For two views of this post see Morice,Northern Interior of British Columbia, pp. 102, 110.Fort McLeod is the oldest permanent post west of the Rocky Mountains. Founded in 1805 by Simon Fraser, it has maintained a continuous existence to the present. It was named for Archibald Norman McLeod, a colleague of its founder in the North West Company. Located on a lake of the same name, near the source of Finlay River, in latitude 55° north, it was chiefly useful as a supply post on the route from Canada via Peace River.Chilcotin was founded (about 1828) on a river of the same name tributary to the upper Fraser, about latitude 52° as an outpost for Fort Alexandria (seeante, p. 44, note 53). Difficult of maintenance because of the troublesome character of the Chilcotin Indians, it was abandoned before 1850.In addition to the posts mentioned, the Hudson’s Bay Company had in Farnham’s time within New Caledonia, Forts Babine, Connolly, and George—the latter on the upper Fraser, the two former on lakes of the same name in the far north.—Ed.[78]All these posts have been before noted: Fort Thompson (Kamloops) in our volume vii, p. 199, note 64; Kootenay and Flathead in notes 45, 46,ante; Fort Hall in our volume xxi, p. 210, note 51; Fort Boise, in our volume xxviii, p. 321, note 199; Fort Colville in De Smet’sLetters, our volume xxvii, p. 330, note 166; Okanagan in our volume vi, p. 260, note 71; Walla Walla in our volume xxi, p. 278, note 73.—Ed.[79]Usually known as Fort Umpqua, this post was founded in 1832 by John McLeod, being situated about forty miles up the Umpqua River, on the south bank, on a small prairie of about two hundred acres. It was usually in charge of a French Canadian clerk, who needed to be vigilant because of the treacherous nature of the savages. The post was attacked in 1840 by ten times the number of defenders, but the assault was repulsed. The stockade having been burned (1851), the Hudson’s Bay Company declined to rebuild, leasing the land to an American settler, W. W. Chapman.—Ed.[80]The idea of a transcontinental railway had not yet dawned. Farnham’s plan shows, however, boldness of conception for these early days of railway building.—Ed.[81]Alexander Simpson, a relation of Sir George, and brother of the Arctic explorer Thomas Simpson, whose early death was a loss to geographical science. Alexander Simpson was on his way to the Sandwich Islands, to investigate the trade conditions therein. See hisLife and Travels of Thomas Simpson(London, 1845), pp. 345, 351.—Ed.[82]For the history of Fort Vancouver see our volume xxi, p. 297, note 82.—Ed.[83]The site of the present St. Helens, a small town, the seat of Columbia County, Oregon.—Ed.[84]This epidemic began in 1829, and wrought great mortality among the natives. By 1832 it was particularly severe around Fort Vancouver. One village visited contained but two infants living—the remainder of the inhabitants having died of the plague. Various causes have been given, some regarding the disease as scarlet fever, others as some form of malaria due to putrid food, others thinking it attributable to immoral habits, etc. By its ravages nearly three-fourths of the native population was swept from the lower Columbia before the advent of American immigrants.—Ed.[85]For Tongue Point see our volume vi, p. 242, note 44.—Ed.[86]For James Birnie, the clerk in charge, see Townsend’sNarrativein our volume xxi, p. 361, note 130.—Ed.[87]For Baker’s Bay see our volume vi, p. 234, note 38.—Ed.[88]Charles Wilkes (1798-1877) entered the navy as a midshipman (1818). He rose to a lieutenancy, and in 1838 was placed in charge of an expedition composed of five vessels dispatched to explore Southern seas. After visiting the Pacific islands, the squadron (1841) explored the Northwest Coast, Wilkes personally visiting the Columbia and Willamette. Appointed to the rank of captain (1835), Wilkes was commander of the vessel that in the War of Secession stopped the steamer “Trent,” and took therefrom the Confederate envoys Mason and Slidell. During the remainder of the war he was in charge of the West India squadron. Retiring in 1864, two years later he attained the rank of rear-admiral. The report of the Wilkes Exploring Expedition was not published until 1845, when five volumes were issued; later, other editions brought the number up to eighteen. In 1842, however, aSynopsis of the Cruise of the United States Exploring Expedition during the years 1838, ’39, ’40, ’41 and ’42was published at Washington. From this version Farnham evidently made his extracts.—Ed.

FOOTNOTES

[1]Chapter v of volume ii of the original edition.—Ed.

[2]For this island, now called Sauvie’s, see our volume xxi, p. 300, notes 85, 86. The root is described in our volume vi, p. 278, note 87.—Ed.

[3]The Clackamas River, for which see our volume xxi, p. 320, note 105.—Ed.

[4]The land at the Falls of the Willamette was a private possession of Dr. John McLoughlin, who took up the claim in 1829, making some improvements. His rights were first contested by members of the Methodist mission. Later, after he had become a naturalized American citizen, he was deprived thereof by legislative act—an injustice which was corrected in 1862, when the land was restored to the heirs of the estate. The town site at this place was platted as Oregon City (a name still retained), and for some years was the seat of government and metropolis of Oregon.—Ed.

[5]Tualatin River, draining the present Washington County, was a fertile valley early settled. About 1852 the river was by private enterprise made navigable for some distance.—Ed.

[6]William Johnson, an English sailor who had deserted to the Americans, and served on the “Constitution” in the fight with the “Guerrière.” He afterwards became a trapper in the Hudson’s Bay service, and came to Oregon (1839) to settle with his native wife and family. He served as sheriff in the first provisional government. He appears later to have removed his claim to the lower Willamette, in the neighborhood of South Portland. According to Dr. McLoughlin’s statement, Oregon Historical SocietyQuarterlyi, p. 197, he “left by sea and never returned to Oregon.”—Ed.

[7]For Thomas McKay consult our volume xxi, p. 201, note 46. His father is noted in Franchère’sNarrative, our volume vi, p. 186, note 9.—Ed.

[8]Townsend was at Fort Vancouver when Bailey was brought in wounded, after his contest with the Rogue River Indians. See hisNarrativein our volume xxi, pp. 328-330.Mrs. Bailey was a Miss Margaret Smith, who came out in 1837 to reinforce the Methodist mission.—Ed.

[8]Townsend was at Fort Vancouver when Bailey was brought in wounded, after his contest with the Rogue River Indians. See hisNarrativein our volume xxi, pp. 328-330.

Mrs. Bailey was a Miss Margaret Smith, who came out in 1837 to reinforce the Methodist mission.—Ed.

[9]The blacksmith and tinker were apparently Thomas J. Hubbard and Calvin Tibbitts, who came to Oregon with Wyeth. See for the former, W. H. Gray,History of Oregon(Portland, Oregon, 1870), pp. 191, 198; for the latter our volume xxi, p. 73, note 50. Both were instrumental in laying the foundations of the Oregon provisional government.—Ed.

[10]This mission was under the care of Father Blanchet, and was founded the year of Farnham’s visit. It was located twelve miles above Champoeg, on the east bank of the river. See De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 320, note 164.—Ed.

[11]For the founding and site of this mission see our volume xxi, p. 299, note 84. The school was later (about 1842) removed to Salem, and the headquarters established there.—Ed.

[12]Dr. Elijah White, a native of New York state, came out as missionary physician in 1837. After serving about four years at the mission, he had some disagreement with its superintendent, and returned to the states. He then received the appointment at Washington of “sub-Indian agent for Oregon,” an office with indeterminate duties, anomalous in character. Once more in Oregon, Dr. White was zealous in execution of the business of his office as he conceived it, but antagonized many of the settlers thereby and found himself in disfavor; so that upon visiting Washington in 1845 he was not able to secure the renewal of his appointment. He returned to Oregon, however, and in 1861 was employed as special Indian agent. In later life he removed to San Francisco, where he died in March, 1879.—Ed.

[13]Rev. David (not Daniel) Leslie came to the Methodist mission with the second reinforcement of 1837. His ability was at once recognized, and during Jason Lee’s absence he acted as superintendent. In 1838 at the request of the American settlers he served them as justice of the peace. The first meeting for a provisional government was held under his presidency (1841). Upon the dissolution of the mission he became a Methodist preacher, making his home in and about Salem, where he was chaplain of the first territorial legislature, and for many years president of the board of trustees of Willamette University. With the exception of a few months in the Sandwich Islands (1842-43), his life was practically spent in Oregon, where he was highly respected for the probity and purity of his character.—Ed.

[14]J. L. Whitcomb came out in 1837 as a lay member of the mission. His duties were the superintendence of the farms. In 1842 he married the widow of Cyrus Shepard, and the same year, because of broken health, returned to the United States.Alanson Beers, from Connecticut, also came (1837) as a lay member of the mission, and remained in Oregon until his death in 1853. He was one of the executive committee of three appointed by the provisional government, and treasurer of the board of trustees of Oregon Institute.—Ed.

Alanson Beers, from Connecticut, also came (1837) as a lay member of the mission, and remained in Oregon until his death in 1853. He was one of the executive committee of three appointed by the provisional government, and treasurer of the board of trustees of Oregon Institute.—Ed.

[15]Farnham forwarded the petition to Congress from Honolulu, in January, 1840, accompanied by a letter of his own in which he sharply criticized the conduct of the Hudson’s Bay Company—seeSenate Docs., 27 Cong., 3 sess., 102. The petition or memorial, which is largely the work of Farnham, was presented to the senate June 4, 1840, by Senator Lewis Linn of Missouri. It may be found inSenate Docs., 26 Cong., 1 sess., 514, signed “David Leslie and others;”Cong. Globe, 26 Cong., 1 sess., 440, reports seventy signers. The memorial requests Congress to establish a territorial government, notes that the British are, through the Hudson’s Bay Company, granting lands, surveying harbors, bays, and rivers, cutting and shipping timber, and preparing to hold all the territory north of the Columbia. It describes the country south of that river as “of unequalled beauty and fertility,” “a delightful and healthy climate,” and “one of the most favored portions of the globe;” and concludes by praying for the “civil institutions of the American Republic,” “the high privileges of American citizenship; the peaceful enjoyment of life; the right of acquiring, possessing, and using property; and the unrestrained pursuit of rational happiness.”—Ed.

[16]An act of parliament was passed (about 1837) at the instigation of Dr. McLoughlin, extending the jurisdiction and civil laws of Canada over the British subjects of Oregon territory. Under this law James Douglas was commissioned justice of the peace for criminal matters and for civil suits under £200 in value. Imprisonment was possible either in the forts of the Hudson’s Bay Company or the jails of Canada.—Ed.

[17]W. H. Wilson had in early life been a cooper on a whaling vessel. Having been converted to Methodism, he came out to Oregon in 1837 as a lay helper, and studied medicine with Dr. Elijah White. In 1840 he married Chloe A. Clark of the mission, who afterwards became first teacher of the Oregon Institute, of which her husband was for some time agent. They made their home in Salem, where he died suddenly of apoplexy. Wilson was the treasurer of the first provisional government of Oregon.—Ed.

[18]For Ewing Young see our volume xx, p. 23, note 2.—Ed.

[19]The reader will take notice that this is an ex-parte statement.—English Editor.

[20]For the origin of this northern boundary, see our volume xxviii, note 1.—Ed.

[21]For David Thompson, a former North West explorer, see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, p. 253, note 61. Exclusive of the Alaskan mountains, there have been no peaks measured in the Rocky Mountain system exceeding 14,500 feet in height.—Ed.

[22]Mount Brown is in British Columbia, about latitude 52° 28′ north, not far from Athabasca Pass. It was formerly thought to be above 15,000 feet in height, but recent measurements have reduced it to less than 10,000.—Ed.

[23]This is Athabasca Pass, first discovered by David Thompson in 1811—see Elliott Coues,Henry-Thompson Journals(New York, 1897), ii, pp. 668, 669. Mount Hooker lay south of the pass, and Mount Brown to the north; the former is about 10,500 feet above sea level (once supposed to be more than 15,000 feet). For a description of the passage of this gap see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, pp. 352-357.—Ed.

[24]The first of these passes is now known as Maria’s, and is that taken by the Great Northern Railway in crossing from Missouri waters to those of the Columbia. The second pass is probably intended to designate that taken by Lewis and Clark, who used not one, but several passes through the network of mountains in western Montana and eastern Idaho. The third is the pass from Henry’s Lake to Red Rock, the source of the Jefferson (not of the Big Horn), over which De Smet went with the Indians—see hisLettersin our volume xxvii, pp. 252, 253, notes 128, 130. The last is South Pass, for which see Wyeth’sOregonin our volume xxi, p. 58, note 37.—Ed.

[25]These spurs from the mountains are not definable. Farnham simply implies them from the watersheds. Upon many of the older maps the Kooskooskee (modern Clearwater) is also called Salmon—leaving to the modern Salmon River the name of Wapiacakoos (Waptacaca, Waptiacoos).—Ed.

[26]Mount St. Elias and Mount Fairweather belong to the Alaskan system, not to that of the Cascade or Presidents’ Range, which properly ends at Puget Sound. Mount St. Elias, the highest mountain save one in North America (18,090 feet) was discovered by Vitus Behring in 1741. Its ascent was accomplished in the summer of 1897 by the Italian explorer, the Duke of Abruzzi.Mount Fairweather, so named by the whalers, who predicted fair weather when the summit of this peak was free from clouds, has an altitude of 15,050 feet; it is located near Sitka, on the Alaskan coast.—Ed.

Mount Fairweather, so named by the whalers, who predicted fair weather when the summit of this peak was free from clouds, has an altitude of 15,050 feet; it is located near Sitka, on the Alaskan coast.—Ed.

[27]For Hall J. Kelley see our volume xxi, p. 24, note 6. In his “Memoir” to Congress,House Reports, 25 Cong., 3 sess., 101, he says: “The eastern section of the district referred to is bordered by a mountain range, running nearly parallel to the spine of the Rocky mountains and to the coast, and which, from the number of its elevated peaks, I am inclined to call the Presidents’ range.”—Ed.

[28]The reader will remember that our Author is an American.—English Ed.

[29]By Mount Tyler Farnham evidently intends Mount Baker, an extinct volcano in Whatcom County, Washington (altitude 10,827 feet), supposed to have shown symptoms of eruption as late as 1875. This peak was named by Vancouver (1792) for one of his officers. J. Q. Thornton,Oregon and California(New York, 1849), i, p. 256, calls this Mount Polk, and assigns the name of Tyler to “an elevation on the peninsula between Hood’s Canal and the ocean.”—Ed.

[30]Evidently Mount Rainier, although incorrectly located, its distance and direction being somewhat deceptive. It is southeast (not northeast) of Puget Sound in Pierce County, Washington, the highest of the Cascade Range (14,526 feet). It was first noted by Vancouver in 1792, and named for a rear-admiral in the British navy. Its Indian name was Ta-ko-man, the white peak, hence its alternate name of Mount Tacoma.—Ed.

[31]Mount Olympus, in Jefferson County, Washington (latitude 47° 50′ north, altitude 8,150 feet), was discovered originally by Perez (see our volume xxviii, p. 32, note 8), who named it Santa Rosalia. Captain John Meares (1785) bestowed its present appellation (see our volume vii, p. 112, note 17).—Ed.

[32]In re-naming the Presidents’ Range there appears to have been considerable confusion in assigning the name of the first executive. Kelley intended the name to be given to Mount St. Helens, which at first Farnham adopted (seeante, our volume xxviii, p. 353, note 221). C. G. Nicolay,Oregon Territory(London, 1846), p. 209, says that St. Helens was called Mount Washington. Nevertheless, Farnham here applies the name of Adams to Mount St. Helens, and that of Washington to Mount Hood, for which latter see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, p. 248, note 54. Franchère applied the title Washington to Mount Jefferson; it has been finally attached to a peak south of Jefferson, in Linn County, Oregon.—Ed.

[33]Mount Jefferson, on the eastern borders of Linn County, a height crowned with perpetual snow, was first sighted by Lewis and Clark on March 30, 1806, from the mouth of Willamette River. InOriginal Journals, iv, p. 223, Clark says: “discovered a high mountain, S. E. covered with snow which we call Mt. Jefferson.”—Ed.

[34]Mount McLoughlin (Madison) is now called Diamond Peak; it is in the southeastern extremity of Lane County, and has an altitude of 8,807 feet.The mountain named for Monroe cannot now be definitely determined, because of confusion of nomenclature. It would seem from the latitude given by Kelley to have been intended for the present Mount Scott. Mount John Quincy Adams is the present Mount Pitt, which name was first assigned by the English to Mount Shasta; this, according to Thornton (op. cit.in note 29,ante), was also the Mount Monroe of the Americans. The term Mount Pitt is now applied to a volcanic peak (altitude 9,760 feet) on the borders of Jackson County, Oregon, eight miles west of Klamath Lake.—Ed.

[34]Mount McLoughlin (Madison) is now called Diamond Peak; it is in the southeastern extremity of Lane County, and has an altitude of 8,807 feet.

The mountain named for Monroe cannot now be definitely determined, because of confusion of nomenclature. It would seem from the latitude given by Kelley to have been intended for the present Mount Scott. Mount John Quincy Adams is the present Mount Pitt, which name was first assigned by the English to Mount Shasta; this, according to Thornton (op. cit.in note 29,ante), was also the Mount Monroe of the Americans. The term Mount Pitt is now applied to a volcanic peak (altitude 9,760 feet) on the borders of Jackson County, Oregon, eight miles west of Klamath Lake.—Ed.

[35]Mount Shasta, of Siskiyou County, California, in latitude 41° 25′ north. Next to Rainier, Shasta is the highest peak of the Cascades, attaining 14,380 feet in altitude, and being perpetually capped with snow.—Ed.

[36]For Cape Disappointment see our volume vi, p. 233, note 36.—Ed.

[37]Boat Encampment, a noted place on the route to Canada, is described by Franchère in our volume vi, pp. 351, 352.—Ed.

[38]For a brief history of Fort Okanagan see our volume vi, p. 260, note 71. Alexander Ross had charge of this post for several years; see his descriptions in our volume vii, pp. 151-159, 198-207, 272-319. Afterward it became a Hudson’s Bay post (in 1821, not 1819). See De Smet’s visit to this region in our volume xxvii, p. 372, note 193.—Ed.

[39]For Spokane River, Lake Cœur d’Alène (Pointed Heart), and Spokane House, see De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 366, note 185. See also Ross’sOregon Settlers, our volume vii, pp. 207-222; also hisFur-Hunters of the Far West, i, pp. 137-139.—Ed.

[40]For H. H. Spaulding see our volume xxi, p. 352, note 125. Fort Colville is described in De Smet’sLetters, our volume xxvii, p. 330, note 166.—Ed.

[41]For Kettle Falls see our volume vi, p. 346, note 153.—Ed.

[42]For Archibald McDonald, see our volume xxi, p. 344, note 119.—Ed.

[43]Now known as Lower Arrow Lake, an expansion of the Columbia many miles in length, between 49° and 50° of north latitude.—Ed.

[44]For the Flathead River, as here intended (now known as Clark’s Fork of the Columbia), see our volume vi, p. 348, note 155. Its sources are near those of the Missouri, not the Saskatchewan.—Ed.

[45]For Lake Pend d’Oreille (Kalispel, Kullerspelm) see De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 339, note 175.Flathead House was built (November, 1809) by David Thompson, of the North West Company, and was maintained throughout the regime of the British fur-trade on the Northwest Coast. In 1824-25 Alexander Ross passed the winter there. It was a small fort tributary to Colville, and in charge usually of a trusted Canadian hunter or trapper. According to the report of 1854 it was situated east of Flathead Lake, on one of its smaller tributaries—Senate Docs., 33 Cong., 2 sess., vii, no. 37.—Ed.

[45]For Lake Pend d’Oreille (Kalispel, Kullerspelm) see De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 339, note 175.

Flathead House was built (November, 1809) by David Thompson, of the North West Company, and was maintained throughout the regime of the British fur-trade on the Northwest Coast. In 1824-25 Alexander Ross passed the winter there. It was a small fort tributary to Colville, and in charge usually of a trusted Canadian hunter or trapper. According to the report of 1854 it was situated east of Flathead Lake, on one of its smaller tributaries—Senate Docs., 33 Cong., 2 sess., vii, no. 37.—Ed.

[46]This is the stream now known as Kootenai River, for which see our volume vi, p. 348, note 156. For the post of that name see our volume vii, p. 210, note 71. The small post was maintained on Kootenai River for nearly half a century. In 1854 it was reported as an inferior station, in charge of a Canadian as trader and postmaster.—Ed.

[47]For the passage of these straits and Upper Arrow Lake, see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, pp. 348, 349.—Ed.

[48]The Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the Columbia at Revelstoke just above the Lower Dalles of the river. The Upper or Little Dalles shut in the river for about a mile; these narrows are now navigated by local steamers.—Ed.

[49]The “few miles” is about one hundred and fifty, in which the river passes through an almost continuous cañon—navigable by canoes, however, save at Dalles des Morts (Narrows of the Dead), so named for the number of accidents occurring therein. The canoe voyage ended at the upper bend of the Columbia, where Canoe River enters from the north, the Columbia coming from the southeast.—Ed.

[50]The trail follows an affluent of the Columbia known as Little Canoe (or Portage) River, leading to Athabasca Pass. See Franchère’s description of the difficulties of the passage in our volume vi, pp. 352-354.—Ed.

[51]For these lakes see our volume vi, p. 353, note 163.—Ed.

[52]Fraser’s River, the largest stream wholly within the limits of British Columbia, rises near the source of the upper branch (Canoe River) of the Columbia, flows northwest for a hundred and ninety miles, and then turns abruptly south until at about latitude 49° 20′ north it bends west into the Strait of Georgia. Sir Alexander Mackenzie was upon its upper waters in 1793. The whole course of the river was explored by Simon Fraser (1808), who until he reached the river’s mouth supposed that he was upon the Columbia. See his “Journal” in L. R. Masson,Bourgeois de la Compagnie du Nord Ouest(Quebec, 1889), i, pp. 155-221.—Ed.

[53]Probably Joseph McGillivray, for whom see our volume vi, p. 346, note 152. Fort Alexandria, on Fraser River, was built (1821) on the east bank of the stream to serve as a supply post, transmitting goods from the Columbia country. It was placed at the point where Sir Alexander Mackenzie turned back (1793), and was named in his honor. In 1836 the fort was removed to the west bank of the river. With varying fortunes the post has ever since been maintained; in 1863 a wagon road was opened as far as Alexandria to accommodate the inrush of miners.—Ed.

[54]For the Similkameen River see our volume vii, p. 206, note 67.—Ed.

[55]For the Luhon (Lowhum, now Des Chutes) and John Day rivers see our volume vii, p. 133, notes 32, 33; for the Umatilla and Walla Walla, volume vi, p. 338, notes 141, 142.—Ed.

[56]Klamath River rises in southern Oregon, in the county of the same name, flows through Klamath lakes and breaks through the barrier of the Cascades about on the California boundary line. Thence flowing in a somewhat irregular course, it receives tributaries from Shasta and Siskiyou mountains, and enters the ocean in Del Norte County, California. It is about two hundred and seventy-five miles long, and navigable for about forty miles from its mouth. Gold and timber are found on its banks.—Ed.

[57]For the Cowlitz River see our volume vi, p. 245, note 49. For Juan de Fuca Strait,ibid., p. 256, note 64.—Ed.

[58]The Umpqua is noted in our volume vii, p. 231, note 82.—Ed.

[59]This appears extravagant, but the fact cannot be disputed. It may be observed, however, that the wood, from its rapid growth, has but little weight—half that of the common pine or deal.—English Ed.

[60]The Coquille River, which rises in several branches among the Coast Mountains and enters the ocean at Coos Bay, in the county of that name. It is navigable for small steamers for over thirty miles from its mouth.—Ed.

[61]Coal was first exported from Washington in 1854; no more was mined until 1870, when the Seattle shafts were opened. Washington is known as the “Pennsylvania of the West” for the number and extent of its coal fields.—Ed.

[62]On the organization and career of the North West Company see J. Long’sVoyagesin our volume ii, preface, pp. 15, 16. The difficulties with the Hudson’s Bay Company are briefly recounted by Franchère in our volume vi, pp. 379-381, particularly notes 195, 199.—Ed.

[63]This lease was the result of a protest from Great Britain to the government of Russia for the attack by the latter upon a British brig entering the Stikeen River to found a fort. The Hudson’s Bay Company waived its claim for damages in virtue of this lease of the mainland of Russian America between Cape Spencer and 54° 40′ north latitude. After being several times renewed, the lease expired in 1868 upon the purchase of Alaska by the United States.—Ed.

[64]See our volume vi, p. 377, note 191, for a description of York Factory.—Ed.

[65]For further details of the system of the Hudson’s Bay Company see A. G. Morice,History of the Northern Interior of British Columbia, formerly New Caledonia(Toronto, 1904), pp. 99-116; also George Bryce,Remarkable History of Hudson’s Bay Company(Toronto, 1900).—Ed.

[66]Henry Bliss,The Colonial System: Statistics of the trade, industry and resources of Canada and other Plantations in British America(London, 1833, not 1831).—Ed.

[67]Andrew Henry, one of the partners of the Missouri Fur Company, in the autumn of 1818 built a post on the north fork of Lewis or Snake (Saptin) River. This was maintained only until the following spring, but is renowned for being the first American trading post on Columbian waters. The site was supposedly near Egin, Idaho, and the stream has since been known as Henry’s Fork.—Ed.

[68]The North West Company decided (1805) to explore the region west of the Rockies and commissioned Simon Fraser to undertake it. In 1805 he built Fort McLeod, the first post in British Columbia. The next summer saw the establishment of two posts—St. James on Stuart Lake, and Fraser on Lake Fraser. Fort Fraser was begun by John Stuart and has been maintained until the present time.—Ed.

[69]For the Astorian enterprise see our volumes v-vii.—Ed.

[70]David Thompson, for whose arrival at Astoria see Franchère’sNarrativein our volume vi, pp. 252-255.—Ed.

[71]See Ross’sOregon Settlersin our volume vii, pp. 244-249.—Ed.

[72]See our volume xxviii, p. 38, note 18.—Ed.

[73]The joint occupancy of Oregon was not determined by the provisions of the Treaty of Ghent, but by a separate convention made (1818) at London. The renewal occurred as Farnham states, by the convention of 1827 signed at London by Albert Gallatin on the part of the United States, and Charles Grant and Henry U. Addington for Great Britain; seeTreaties and Conventions between the United States and Other Powers(Washington, 1889), pp. 415-418, 426, 427.—Ed.

[74]For Fort Vancouver see our volume xxi, p. 297, note 82; the early history of Fort George is narrated in our volume vi, p. 241, note 42. After the headquarters of the fur company were withdrawn from Fort George, it was maintained chiefly as a post of observation to report incoming vessels; a single clerk lived at this place, raised vegetables and flowers in his garden, and welcomed travellers. The foundations of Fort George were visible at Astoria as late as 1870, but are now entirely built over.—Ed.

[75]For Fort Nisqually see De Smet’sLettersin our volume xxvii, p. 386, note 203. Fort Langley was founded in 1827 upon the north bank of the Fraser, not far from the mouth; it was an important dépôt for supplying the interior posts. While James Yale was factor in charge the buildings were totally destroyed by fire (1840), but a new stockade was immediately erected. In 1858 Langley was the prospective capital of the newly-erected province of British Columbia, and a town site was surveyed about the fort; but being considered indefensible from a military point of view, and on the wrong side of the river, New Westminster was chosen instead and Fort Langley was abandoned.Fort McLoughlin was erected upon the seacoast in 1833, and placed in charge of Dr. Tolmie; but the location was insecure because of the hostility of the neighboring Indians, and it was therefore abandoned in 1843, the effects being removed to the newly-established Fort Camosum at Victoria.—Ed.

Fort McLoughlin was erected upon the seacoast in 1833, and placed in charge of Dr. Tolmie; but the location was insecure because of the hostility of the neighboring Indians, and it was therefore abandoned in 1843, the effects being removed to the newly-established Fort Camosum at Victoria.—Ed.

[76]Fort Simpson, named in honor of Sir George, the Hudson’s Bay Company’s governor, was not upon Dundas Island, but on the mainland opposite. Its first site was six miles above the mouth of Nass River (1831). Three years later it was removed to the Chimsyan Peninsula, below Nass River—one of the finest harbors on the coast. It is still maintained as a Hudson’s Bay post, being known as Port Simpson; recent efforts have been made to make this a port of entry for Pacific Ocean traffic.—Ed.

[77]For Fort Fraser seeante, p. 56, note 68. Fort St. James, at the outlet of Stuart Lake (latitude 54° 26′ north), was built in 1806 by Simon Fraser amid a large population of Indians, and has been maintained continuously to the present. After the advent of the Hudson’s Bay Company, Fort St. James was made the emporium of New Caledonia, the residence of a chief factor. In 1828 it was visited by Sir George Simpson, who entered in proper state with buglers and bagpipers, the governor and his suite mounted, amid the welcoming discharge of cannon and musketry (A. McDonald,Peace River, pp. 24, 25). For two views of this post see Morice,Northern Interior of British Columbia, pp. 102, 110.Fort McLeod is the oldest permanent post west of the Rocky Mountains. Founded in 1805 by Simon Fraser, it has maintained a continuous existence to the present. It was named for Archibald Norman McLeod, a colleague of its founder in the North West Company. Located on a lake of the same name, near the source of Finlay River, in latitude 55° north, it was chiefly useful as a supply post on the route from Canada via Peace River.Chilcotin was founded (about 1828) on a river of the same name tributary to the upper Fraser, about latitude 52° as an outpost for Fort Alexandria (seeante, p. 44, note 53). Difficult of maintenance because of the troublesome character of the Chilcotin Indians, it was abandoned before 1850.In addition to the posts mentioned, the Hudson’s Bay Company had in Farnham’s time within New Caledonia, Forts Babine, Connolly, and George—the latter on the upper Fraser, the two former on lakes of the same name in the far north.—Ed.

Fort McLeod is the oldest permanent post west of the Rocky Mountains. Founded in 1805 by Simon Fraser, it has maintained a continuous existence to the present. It was named for Archibald Norman McLeod, a colleague of its founder in the North West Company. Located on a lake of the same name, near the source of Finlay River, in latitude 55° north, it was chiefly useful as a supply post on the route from Canada via Peace River.

Chilcotin was founded (about 1828) on a river of the same name tributary to the upper Fraser, about latitude 52° as an outpost for Fort Alexandria (seeante, p. 44, note 53). Difficult of maintenance because of the troublesome character of the Chilcotin Indians, it was abandoned before 1850.

In addition to the posts mentioned, the Hudson’s Bay Company had in Farnham’s time within New Caledonia, Forts Babine, Connolly, and George—the latter on the upper Fraser, the two former on lakes of the same name in the far north.—Ed.

[78]All these posts have been before noted: Fort Thompson (Kamloops) in our volume vii, p. 199, note 64; Kootenay and Flathead in notes 45, 46,ante; Fort Hall in our volume xxi, p. 210, note 51; Fort Boise, in our volume xxviii, p. 321, note 199; Fort Colville in De Smet’sLetters, our volume xxvii, p. 330, note 166; Okanagan in our volume vi, p. 260, note 71; Walla Walla in our volume xxi, p. 278, note 73.—Ed.

[79]Usually known as Fort Umpqua, this post was founded in 1832 by John McLeod, being situated about forty miles up the Umpqua River, on the south bank, on a small prairie of about two hundred acres. It was usually in charge of a French Canadian clerk, who needed to be vigilant because of the treacherous nature of the savages. The post was attacked in 1840 by ten times the number of defenders, but the assault was repulsed. The stockade having been burned (1851), the Hudson’s Bay Company declined to rebuild, leasing the land to an American settler, W. W. Chapman.—Ed.

[80]The idea of a transcontinental railway had not yet dawned. Farnham’s plan shows, however, boldness of conception for these early days of railway building.—Ed.

[81]Alexander Simpson, a relation of Sir George, and brother of the Arctic explorer Thomas Simpson, whose early death was a loss to geographical science. Alexander Simpson was on his way to the Sandwich Islands, to investigate the trade conditions therein. See hisLife and Travels of Thomas Simpson(London, 1845), pp. 345, 351.—Ed.

[82]For the history of Fort Vancouver see our volume xxi, p. 297, note 82.—Ed.

[83]The site of the present St. Helens, a small town, the seat of Columbia County, Oregon.—Ed.

[84]This epidemic began in 1829, and wrought great mortality among the natives. By 1832 it was particularly severe around Fort Vancouver. One village visited contained but two infants living—the remainder of the inhabitants having died of the plague. Various causes have been given, some regarding the disease as scarlet fever, others as some form of malaria due to putrid food, others thinking it attributable to immoral habits, etc. By its ravages nearly three-fourths of the native population was swept from the lower Columbia before the advent of American immigrants.—Ed.

[85]For Tongue Point see our volume vi, p. 242, note 44.—Ed.

[86]For James Birnie, the clerk in charge, see Townsend’sNarrativein our volume xxi, p. 361, note 130.—Ed.

[87]For Baker’s Bay see our volume vi, p. 234, note 38.—Ed.

[88]Charles Wilkes (1798-1877) entered the navy as a midshipman (1818). He rose to a lieutenancy, and in 1838 was placed in charge of an expedition composed of five vessels dispatched to explore Southern seas. After visiting the Pacific islands, the squadron (1841) explored the Northwest Coast, Wilkes personally visiting the Columbia and Willamette. Appointed to the rank of captain (1835), Wilkes was commander of the vessel that in the War of Secession stopped the steamer “Trent,” and took therefrom the Confederate envoys Mason and Slidell. During the remainder of the war he was in charge of the West India squadron. Retiring in 1864, two years later he attained the rank of rear-admiral. The report of the Wilkes Exploring Expedition was not published until 1845, when five volumes were issued; later, other editions brought the number up to eighteen. In 1842, however, aSynopsis of the Cruise of the United States Exploring Expedition during the years 1838, ’39, ’40, ’41 and ’42was published at Washington. From this version Farnham evidently made his extracts.—Ed.

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