View on Scrub RidgeView on Scrub Ridge
5th. At Bloody Run, called so from a battle fought with the natives;15here stands a little town pleasantlysituate on the Juniatta river, and containing several useful trades, such as blacksmith, wheelwright, harness-maker, tailor, and draper, &c. We approached it for the last nine miles by a new and excellent road just finishing, which is laid a considerable way along the Juniatta, the banks of which are beautifully edged with woodland. Some alterations and repairs done to the dearborn and the waggon here were charged at the following rate:—
Cents.[45] Wheelwright, for two new poles, one great swing tree, and two single ditto$4 : 50Blacksmith, for ironing the above (except one of the poles.)6 : 50Price of a horse-shoe and putting on0 : 31½Ditto, a remove0 : 12½
We here enjoyed ourselves under the comforts of a good inn and attentive landlady.
10th. At Johnson's tavern, foot of Chestnut Ridge. We have now passed the Allegany mountains, and can affirm that at this time of the year there is little except the stony road very formidable to encounter: the line of it is laid with judgment, and with steady horses and a stout carriage may well be passed over by those who fear not a shaking; that, indeed, they may rely upon. The settlers on the eastern side of the mountains take great pains to deter the traveller from attempting the pass, and even after having surmounted the Cove mountain, Scrubridge, &c., I was told of the great difficulties of Laurel Hill; the fact is, it proved the easiest of the whole; nothing annoyed us but the sun, it being about mid-day when we began the ascent.
Much has been said of the expense of travelling in this country, I give therefore a night's bill at one of the better houses, viz.
Cents.[46] 5 Suppers$1 : 87½Lodging0 : 37½Hay for 4 horses1 : 08 Gallons (1 Bushel) of Oats1 : 0£.s.d.———4 : 250 : 19 : 1½
A night's bill at a good English inn for the same would be double the amount.
A tavern-keeper brought in some wine glasses stinking of whiskey, to which a cloth seemed never to have been applied; out of a pitcher of water he poured some into a glass, just shook it, and then throwing the water into the waiter upon which the wine stood, walked away satisfied with this proof of his cleanliness: and a female the other evening, in order to brush away the flies while we were at supper, flourished over our heads her dirty pocket handkerchief, in the absence of the brush of feathers fixed upon a long stick, which is generally waved over the dishes during the repast. The practice of going barefoot is here very general among working people, particularly the females; it is by no means an uncommon sight [47] in New York and Philadelphia, during the summer season, even in good houses; a custom this, probably, at least as cleanly as that of wearing close shoes and stockings.
12th. At Greensburgh, thirty miles east from Pittsburgh. The country we have lately passed is beautifully undulated, land of good quality interspersed with woodland, worth near from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre; water plentiful and good.
Our landlord has just returned from a journey to thewestern country as far as St. Louis, on the borders of the Missourie territory; his report of the country is not favourable: he says it is very unhealthy, which he ascribes to the woodland, contrary to the general situation of such land, being lower than the open prairie; consequently retaining much stagnant water, the fruitful cause of diseases.
18th. At Hayes' tavern, three miles west of Pittsburgh, in which "Birmingham of America" I had intended to make some stay; but the heat, dirt, filth, and charges made me hasten out of it in search of rest and fresh air to this place.
The town of Pittsburgh16stands beautifully, at the junction of the two rivers, and the land around it is of good quality; but its trade is upon the wane, not alone owing I apprehend to the times, [48] but to the town of Wheeling's being better situated for ready communication with the western country, and consequently thriving upon its decay. Pittsburgh has, too, suffered greatly from the extensive failures of the country banks. I met everywhere grave, eager, hungry looking faces; and could perceive, as well as hear complaints of, a general want of employment.
It being near the hour of dinner when we arrived, we joined the company at table, consisting chiefly of constant boarders, who, after a quick and silent repast, vanished; leaving at table two pleasant and travelled men, one a man of law from Boston, (Massachusetts,) the other a gentleman resident in Virginia. We talked of slavery, which the latter defended ingeniously, though not convincingly, by quotations from the sacred writings, St. Paul, &c.;—he owned a numerous establishment ofslaves, and such was his reliance upon their attachment and content, that he had not the slightest apprehension of danger to his family during his absence: he had come to Pittsburgh to attend a trial, and entertained us with an account of the conduct in court of his Counsel, who, he gave us to understand, was a man high in the profession; neither Counsel nor Judge as is well known, put on here any gown but the heat of the day had induced this gentleman's [49] Counsel first to put off his coat, and not finding himself yet cool enough he got rid of waistcoat also; and then, further to cool his constitution and assist thought, he put a cigar into his mouth, and in this trim paraded up and down the court. The old gentleman, who had been in most parts of Europe, then asked what could strangers, just coming from England, think of such conduct in a court of trial? The glass circulated and in such conversation the time passed agreeably, until, at some general observation I made, the Bostonian fired up and we were as near a quarrel as any prudent people need to be; when the Virginian interposed and succeeded in making peace: however, harmony had been broken and we soon after separated. In the evening, expecting a pleasant drive of three miles, we left Pittsburgh; and, crossing the river by a respectable new-covered-bridge, for which I paid a toll of one dollar each carriage, took a wrong turn on the other side; and after encountering most dreadful roads, and making a tour of above six or eight miles instead of three, arrived by moonlight at the long-looked-for tavern.
At this obscure inn exists yet hearty at the age of eighty-eight years, one of fortune's fools, Captain Fowler, an Englishman late of the 38th regiment of foot; a man who in early life was [50] advanced, solely by merit and strict attention to the duties of a soldier, through every gradation,until he not only bore a captain's commission, but at the same time received the pay of adjutant and paymaster to three regiments.—Having attained to this rank, the favourite of Lord Percy, General Crosby and other officers of his day, and being in the high road to further honour and promotion, he was induced on the insidious misrepresentations of a sordid brother, to quit all these favours of fortune and come to America: here, at the instance of this relative embarking in one plausible speculation or another, he wasted his fortune; and now wears out the remainder of his days unknown at this tavern, kept by a good-hearted rough Irishman who has become his son-in-law. It is pleasing to see the attention that he receives from the family, which uniting with age and religion seem effectually to reconcile the old man to his fate.
At this small house are maintained four female and two male servants, yet the house is not half cleaned, and the garden is little else but weeds; litter and dirt pervade the premises, while these Independents will play for hours at ball, or loll [51] over a rail to rest themselves. Behold a true picture-general! Howpleasingto the lover of freedom to contemplate its blessed effects! Leisure, instead of inducing habits of mental improvement, and cleanliness, leaves them, in utter negligence of both, only to pass half their time in mere idleness and dirt: but why do I speak of the lower order while those, who should set these a better example, pass their days at taverns and other boarding-houses in idle games of shuffleboard and ninepins; or, seated for hours motionless under the shed which is universally attached to the houses, seem to existsolely to inhale the fumes of tobacco. Truly these people understand not liberty,—civilly, it is idleness and licentiousness; religiously, a leaving them to their wildest fancies.
A black girl with youthful spirits was playing with a lad in the town street, when the wheelwright, with whom I was talking while he mended the carriage, said, "if it were not for fear of the [52] law one would be inclined to put an end to that black——; they ought to be taught the difference between a black and a white, and to pay more respect than to think of associating with them!"—The man spoke really in earnest, and would have thought little of putting the girl to death.
Immediately afterwards I met a white little boy who followed a tall mulatto woman, and with all his little strength was beating her with a stick; at length the woman could bear it no longer, and told him, if she should bewhippedthe next moment for it, she would pull his ears if he continued to do so. The same day, in my hearing a mulatto woman was threatened by her master with the application of the "cowhide" for not bringing the Independent his umbrella quick enough!
From the slight chirping of a few grasshoppers or crickets in England, no one can have a conception of the noise of a summer night here; all the insect tribe seem to open at once and to join in one perpetual chorus, very unpleasant to ears unaccustomed to it.
The Pensilvanians resemble in many points the Scots: they go barefoot, they have both some dirty habits, neither have yet very generally erected temples to Cloacina beyond the immediate neighbourhood of great towns. A medical man lately told me that the itch, a disorder which proves uncleanliness where it prevails, was as rife as in Scotland; of drams of whisky and bitters they are equally fond. In cookery the comparison turns in favour of our northern neighbours, who understand it far better than they do here, where it is the most abominable messing and spoiling of provision imaginable: nothing but frying in butter till the stomach turns even at the smell; of vegetables they have but small variety, and of these the sickly tasting beet is a favourite, which they dress in the same disgusting way as the flesh-meat, neither good for palate or stomach.
22d. At Washington, Pensilvania, eight miles west of Canonsburgh: this latter little town stands in a healthy beautiful situation. It has a college in an unfinished state; there are three professorships, viz. Mathematics and Natural Philosophy, Languages, and Humanity Class, the whole supported [54] by voluntary contributions to which the government have made a handsome addition: at this time there are ninety students.17The land about Canonsburgh to this place, is generally of very good quality, and just now may be bought at a reasonable rate; its nominal value, I was informed by one of the students, is from under twenty, to the best about thirty dollars peracre; it abounds in coal, lime, and iron; the first only two cents per bushel at the pit, and laid down at the door for two more. There are many English settlers hereabout, and the shew of improved management was very perceptible. There are some objections however to this part of the country, which perhaps the improvement of roads and canals will in time obviate; it is a distant point from both the great markets for commodities, the Eastern and Western; consequently what they sell is low, and that which they buy is very high.
Washington (Pensilvania,) is a very pleasant, fast-increasing, and of course thriving town, through which the great national western road and six others are laid. The College here too is in an unfinished state; it has now only [55] forty-five students, owing to the dismissal of a favourite president, and the appointment of one not liked.18
On leaving Washington a few miles, the traveller enters the state of Virginia, which he crosses to Wheeling, a town on the eastern bank of the Ohio. The whole way is in general a fine drive, and in two or three years will be better from the improved roads forming every where as we pass with great judgment and spirit. The National road is a work truly worthy of a great nation, both in its idea and construction; upon it, the traveller will be enabled to passwith comfort, from the eastern coast, westward the whole way to New Orleans; and perhaps by another branch to St. Louis, without being stopt to pay a single toll.19This is as it should be; for roads are one of those important works which are scarcely ever executed well by individuals, and which therefore should be done by their representatives, and paid for by the treasury; one is not then stopt every five or ten miles to pay a toll frequently exorbitant; nor would the public be speculated upon [56] by individual proprietors20or small companies, who seldom execute these works upon a scale sufficiently liberal.
Almost all the labourers employed here upon the roads are either Irish or English, and it is not certain that these republicans have not a secret pride in beholding the natives of the old world toiling for their benefit; however, the earnings of the men are I believe sufficient to render them in time independent, and I must say they look in general well fed, well clothed and comfortable. We passed one party employed in ploughing down part of the uneven road with a strong machine drawn by eight oxen, while two others drew a large wooden scoop to shovel up and lead away the ploughed up soil: it appeared to save much labour. The Irish here have not lost in our esteem; two or three times we have been beholden to individuals of that nation for good-natured little services: one of them lately aided me successfully to get along part of the new road where we had met with some opposition; another actually accompanied us about nine miles on a like occasion, not with a view to remuneration, for I could not persuade him to [57] take any thing for his services but some refreshment at the tavern. I heartily return them the good wishes they so frequently expressed as we passed them. One of the above men had acquired some property; he told me that seven years ago he bought land at six dollars per acre, and that he had just sold a part of it at fifty, and some even so high as seventy dollars per acre. The proximity of the new road had increased thus the value of his land.
The beautiful Sassafras shrub is now plentiful, also several others which I in vain endeavoured to obtain the name of; for the people seem almost totally ignorant of the trees and shrubs in their woods.
Is very pleasantly situated on the Ohio, and, standing upon high ground, appears to be healthy; it is also a very thriving town, as a number of excellent buildings and others rapidly carrying up sufficiently testify; among these is a public seminary endowed by a professional man in the law, who, dying without heirs, left amply sufficient to endow it:21near to this stands a neat chapel erected by methodists. Two good vineyards [58] are planted here, which looked thriving and, we were told, produce excellent wine.
Without meaning to speak in favour of slavery, I willyet state the fact that, during the drive across this small arm of the slave state of Virginia, the white people seemed far more respectable and civilized than in the free state we had just left; almost all we met accosted us pleasantly, as if to welcome a stranger without that rude stare to which we had become accustomed; the blacks, too, appeared to be well clothed, civilized, and comfortable; very superior to the free black population elsewhere seen. We had scarcely crossed the Ohio into the free state of that name, when we found a rogue and rudeness; freedom must at least take honesty for her companion or she is not worth a rush.
On entering the state of Ohio by this route we find little to interest; a wild uncleared hilly country,22which with little alteration continues [59] till you approach St. Clairsville: the soil then is clay; the town well placed and its buildings good and neat; land hereabouts, a good grazing soil, is worth about twenty dollars per acre. We bought here, out of a waggon load, half a peck of peaches for six cents, (3d.) the peach and apple orchards are literally breaking down with fruit; every morning we stop at the first orchard to take in as many apples as we want for the day.
My man experienced an accident, in coming down oneof these steep hills, which might have proved worse in its consequence than it did; not seeing him behind as usual I waited sometime for his coming up, and began to feel uneasy about him, when we heard his waggon wheels approaching: one of the horses had broke the hame-strap, which, throwing the pole on one side, had precipitated the waggon and driver into some brush-wood on the road side;—while in this situation, unable to extricate himself, a country waggon luckily came past, and he applied to the fellows with it for aid, which the human brutes refused withoutfirstbeing paid for their trouble.—From such contemplations let us turn for relief to the variety of foliage so highly pleasing in this part of the wilderness; we now see the Tulip tree for the first time; the Sassafras grows thickly, and a great variety of other plants and shrubs of which, [60] for want of botanical knowledge, I know not the names.
Several people clothed something like Jews with long beards have passed us at different times on horseback; these, I was told, are a Christian sect of charitable pilgrims styling themselves Dunkards.23
30th. The weather has been for some days past cooler owing to the falling of some rain, but is again becoming warm. The sudden and violent changes of temperature are at least as frequent on this side of the mountains as on the eastern shores, whatever may have been asserted to the contrary, and rain is almost always succeeded bycold. On the 24th of August in the early morning the thermometer of Fahrenheit was at 46°, it has since been above 80º, but again this morning has sunk to 56°.
31st. The road is covered with dust arising from the great number of horses, waggons, &c. conveying people from a methodist camp-meeting just held in the neighbourhood, at which it was calculated that nearly four thousand attended; the convocation had continued for several days, during which these people had slept upon the ground in the intervals between praying and preaching.
September2d. At Chillicothe,24Ohio. Watson's [61] hotel; the wit's mode of spelling it (Hothell) is more significant, for the beds swarm with bugs, and the thermometer is at 86° in the shade. I called at the land office and was shewn the map of the district; most of the sections, except those south-east of the town, (a poor mountainous tract,) are entered, and to my surprize, in general paid for; so this considerable part of the state is in the hands of land speculators, under whose baneful influence a chief part of the country remains a wilderness, which otherwise would have been under cultivation, if open to real settlers at the government price per acre. The British government have in Canada acted more wisely, in offering the lands only to those who will build, clear, and settle upon them.
5th. At Col. Woods' Log tavern, nine miles east of the town of West Union, Ohio. The road has lately led us through a fine fertile tract of vale, beautifully skirted by the high rocky woodland, from whence is quarried a goodhard granite for building and other purposes. The town in this tract called Bainbridge is a new settlement,25but already possesses some neat and good houses; the value of land of the district may be estimated by the price of town lots, containing sufficient space for a house and garden, which are as high in best situations as two hundred dollars (forty-five [62] pounds;)—the out-field lots are from twenty to twenty-five dollars per acre. This tract throughout appears well watered; the only objection I heard of to it, and that perhaps no small one to a settler, is, there being many disputed titles.
Among the growth in the wood we have lately noticed thePapaw, a bushy elegant shrub with large leaves; its fruit not yet ripe. The Tulip tree becomes more common, also more Elm and Beech, Sycamore and Buttonwood; all these are found here of immense size, towering high in air with stems perfectly straight. Near to Chillicothe, which is in north latitude about 39° 15´, we saw the first tobacco cultivation; it looked well notwithstanding the drought which now begins to be felt every where.
Upon admiring a large strong dog the other day, his owner told me he was very necessary on account of the wolves which are yet numerous: the dogs here are as mixed a breed as the people, and a thorough-bred is not to be seen. Deer are plentiful, also rackoons and squirrels; the wild Turkey we saw yesterday, which seemed to resemble exactly our dark tame breed.
Ferry at Maysville, on the OhioFerry at Maysville, on the Ohio
5th. Several parties on horseback have passed us on the road, making inquiries of the way to a methodistpreachment, and to judge from the [63] immense numbersthat collect on these occasions fanaticism seems to have taken deep root here.
6th. Started with my host on an expedition through the woods to visit a farm belonging to him. We took our guns uselessly for we saw no game of any kind, but, on arriving at the farm, got some good peaches and drank the pure water of a fine spring; being warm, he directed me to let the water run upon my wrists for some time before drinking, to prevent the effects of suddenly taking cold water while heated; these sort of cautions have probably been handed down from the native hunters. We passed a kind of vine which has a poisonous quality,26the leaves being rubbed on the skin will raise irritating blisters. The Poplar tree, my host observed, made better shingles for covering roofs, if painted, than the Cedar, which is commonly used unpainted; perhaps any of the poplar tribe may do, and where a light covering is required might be advantageously employed in England.
A large party of settlers from the state of Illinois came by, they are returning to that of New York, to the same spot they quitted a year and a half ago. The account they give is that a fine fertile tract of land about forty miles from the river Illinois, and not far from its confluence with the Mississipi, was purchased by them, and they [64] settled upon it last summer; since which period they had lost eight of their party by dysentery, fever and ague, and that the remainder had determined to quit the purchase, and return with the loss of all their time and nearly all their money. These are facts much lessening our sanguine expectations as to the western paradise; however, I am resolved to proceed and endeavour to ascertain the truth on all the points for which I undertookthe journey. One of the above party told me, that when ill he had paid a fee of twenty-five dollars for one visit of a Physician, the distance being about twenty miles; if this be true the medical science at least must meet with sufficient encouragement.27
The state of Ohio took a rough leave of us down a rocky precipitous hill, at the foot of which we found ourselves safe on the bank of the river; and driving down to the water's edge into ateam-boatlately established, were, about dark landed on the other side, and comfortably received at a good family inn at Maysville kept by Mr. Chambers, a sensible clever man, who came to it from Jersey State about seventeen years ago, and [65] who has, by judgment in the purchase of land &c., made a good fortune for himself and family: some lots about the town, which he bought for four hundred dollars six years since, are now worth some thousands; such is the rapid increase in the value of property in this country when a man makes agood hit.
On quitting this State, through which we have travelled from Wheeling in a south-west direction to Maysville or Limestone, (Kentucky,) the impression it has made is not so favourable as I had been led to expect; though our course comprehended but a small part of it, yet we passed through the most populous districts, if we except that around Cincinnati. Instead of a garden, I found a wilderness; land speculators have got a considerable part in their baleful clutches to make their market on the wants of the poor settler; but I am apt to think have been themselves outwitted, owing to the superior attraction of the moredistant western country: yet is Ohio a desirable one, as it contains within itself most articles of the first necessity and perhaps more; coals in abundance, lime, stone for building, iron and other metals, with fine rivers for transporting commodities of all kinds. The face of [66] that part which I saw, is exceedingly hilly, in some places approaching to mountains; but the soil in general well adapted to grazing, and the whole strongly resembling our county of Derby upon a gigantic scale. The northwest part of the State, an immense tract of country, has been lately ceded by the natives to the United States,28and I believe has been surveyed, allotted, and is now offering to the public at one and a quarter dollar per acre ready money: of its fertility much is reported, and its communication with Lake Erie, and by it with the other lakes and the eastern markets, will render it perhaps more desirable than the part we have travelled over.
The roads at present are altogether in a state of nature, the trees only just chopped off about a foot from the ground, and rocks, and stones, and gullies left to be got over as we can; no wonder then, that you see a blacksmith's shop every two or three miles, and tavern by the side of it to put up and spend your money while the repairs are doing; for which, however trifling, Vulcan cannot form his mouth to any word less than a dollar, and his friend the tavern-keeper charges an "elevenpenny bit" if you have but two centsworthof whisky.
As to the general want of cleanliness in the [67] taverns, of which so much has been saidand so justly, though thekeepers of them have no doubt a large share of the blame, yet much may be said in their defence; the fact is, their customers are of so filthy habits that to have a house clean is almost impossible; and though bugs swarm it is true in the bed-rooms, beyond an English imagination, it is extremely difficult in this warm climate to keep free from them, particularly at inns, as they are constantly carried in the cloaths, luggage, &c., from one house to another until many a bug, it may happen, has been as great a traveller as Mr. Birkbeck himself. Yet do the people deserve reprehension, for while "such things are," and sundry other unseemly appearances are constantly, in their bed-rooms and other parts, existing in full force; while their gardens (ill deserving the name) are over-run with weeds, and cropped in the most slovenly manner; while a thousand disagreeables are around them, these—what shall I call them?—slaves to sloth, and worshippers of an idle deity of independence, will sit lounging against the wall with arms across smoking cigars; or you shall see the female part, lolling out of their windows gazing at nothingness.
Maysville, on the Ohio, KentuckyMaysville, on the Ohio, Kentucky
Here at Mr. Chamber's, we staid two days, received more like guests than as travellers at an inn; his conversation was amusing and his anecdotes conveying much information: in his garden which is spacious and well-managed, we ate the first ripe grapes we had met with. The town, which seems to be fast increasing in size and importance, stands high from the level of the river, and is screened by towering hills, affording in the immediateneighbourhood and also up the river situations for building that few places can surpass: the view from above the town looking down the river is beautiful and extensive; a considerable part of the buildings are of brick; glass works are established, and other manufactories requiring machinery. All these advantages however will hardly compensate with most people for its being within the territories of a slave state. Of the determined obstinacy and turpitude of a black boy we were here witnesses; a silver fruit-knife had been left upon the table, and he had secreted it, the knife was soon missed, and search made for it in vain; at length, suspicion falling upon him, he was sent for and [69] questioned, but denied all knowledge of the knife with an air of the greatest innocency; he was offered half a dollar and to be screened from punishment if he would give it up, but continued to deny that he had taken it, wishing, "his flesh might rot if he had"—his pockets were at length examined; and the knife and an apple dropt together from one of them, upon which the young rogue declared that the person who searched him had put it there, and a terrible beating which I fear he got, did not in the least make him prevaricate.
We took leave of our host and hostess not without some regret, and, as we slowly paced up the long hill which rises immediately from the town, looked back frequently to view the beautiful river scenery from the different points it offered: a turn at the top suddenly presented on all sides a cleared, well cultivated, and inclosed country; the road was good, the day beautiful, and we bowled along through plentiful crops of Indian corn, rejoicing that we had escaped the wilderness, and thinking we had really entered upon the garden of the United States. After a few miles of good road however these pleasantideas were shaken out by an absolute rock, upon which with but little intermission we rattled for near twenty miles, passing through a place called Blue Licks.29At its salt springs [70] the deer and buffaloe used formerly to be found in immense herds; it is now a watering place, the resort of invalids: yet let not the English reader here picture to himself either Bath, Cheltenham, or Tunbridge Wells, but a few dispersed log huts and two taverns of the same description. Many of the men here wear, instead of a coat, a short cloak, a little resembling that part of the old English dress, which if they knew how to carry with any grace would look well.
The drought is now exceedingly great, and we have reports of much stock dying to the south of this state for want of water; we therefore see the country at as unfavourable a time as possible; yet, under these disadvantages, the grass is really green, a circumstance which proves the strong natural fertility of the soil, also shewn by the spontaneous growth of the white clover among the trees of the uncleared forest land where it has been grazed. Of this grazed forest the farmers assert that it will not, when cleared, broke up and sown, produce so much corn by one third per acre as that which has not been grazed, and many of them consequently shut up their forest land from all cattle and even from pigs.
A little black boy was playing upon the ground, at the tavern-door with a dog; I pointed to them and said to the landlord, (a very civilized man,) "Do you make christiansof these?" "Oh no."—"You name them without the clergyman?" "Oh yes; we sometimes give them one name and then alter it for another:"—"And does not your church find fault with you sometimes for such neglect?"
"No, they never think of such things."
"And when they die you throw them into the ground without further ceremony?"
Answer,—Always let them lie just where it happens—I suppose, you do not do so in your country; do you?
Self,—Certainly not; we think very differently upon the subject; that child would there be free, the moment it set foot upon our shores.
Landlord,—"Oh, you mean thenegre; I thought you were speaking of the dog all the time. Yes; we christenthem; but we do not let them eat with us, only the Quakers let them eat with them!"
This man's kitchen presented a picture which is general with some exceptions throughout the [72] slave country, a description of it will therefore serve for all the rest. Behold, a dark log building with a floor of mud, upon which a number of little black children are at all times to be seen crawling, while others are perhaps lying without the door sunning themselves; all mostly without any covering whatever: these are the progeny of the cook and other slaves, and are destined for sale or to supply the places of others. A quick lively little black girl, of about nine years of age, waited here with such spirit and so cleverly upon the guests that she attracted our notice; and upon praising her dexterity to her master he told us, that he had more than once refused three hundred dollars which had been offered for her.—The kitchen, besides being made the daily black-nursery, is also their general dormitory: at night, they creep round the warm embers and huddledtogether sleep in the contaminated atmosphere of this Augean stable, in the midst of the dirt and abominations of which the traveller's meat is prepared, and served more decently than might be expected; after escaping (perhaps) the fingers of the poor little creatures, who, watching their opportunity, rise from under the dressers, pilfer the meat and dip their fingers in gravies.
The ovens are, very conveniently for this warm [73] climate, built apart from the house in the open air. Mine host, notwithstanding the above mistake, was a man of very respectable manners, and his wife, a lady-like woman, presided at the supper which was even elegantly set out to a company most heterogeneous. Opposite to me, a young fellow seated himself, without his coat and in his dirty shirt sleeves of at least seven days' wear, and, not shewing the least of that shyness which such a man would experience in England, played away with his knife and fork perfectly at his ease: indeed, the clumsy gait and bent body of our peasant is hardly ever seen here, every one walks erect and easy; a plainness of dress and coarseness of the texture amounting to vulgarity, blunt discourse, in short, the manners of the herd, areaffectedby the few, and all mix without any seeming distinction. To have objected to the company of the dirty fellow just mentioned would have probably ended in a "rough and tumble," and the loss of an eye, as it is not an uncommon accomplishment to be a good hand at "gouging." This brings to mind a story of a fellow who had been so terribly mauled at a "rough and tumble" that a man, compassionating his condition, said, "you have come off badly this time I doubt?" "Have I," says he; triumphantly shewing from his pocket [74] at the same time an eye, which he had extracted during the combat, and preserved for a trophy.
The approach to this town is for several miles along good road, and through a country much improving in natural advantages and cultivation. Lexington has been often enough described; thirty-five years ago, it is said to have contained but one hundred houses; it has now several thousands, and many of them very handsome; more to say, it has some good and wide streets, with well-paved broad foot-ways of brick, and a market street, only in part finished, upon the model of that at Philadelphia: its Court-house, a miserable brick building, stands well and airy in a large square which may some time or other be neat: in and near the town is a manufactory or two. The College or public seminary31is well situated at the eastern entrance of the town; it is a handsome building but within in a bad state; at present there are about one hundred pupils. The inn, or tavern to which I was recommended, and where I met with much civility and attention; had any thing rather than cleanliness or comfort, [75] but the charges as high as if both had been to the utmost wish;32myriads of bugs as usual; we literally found rest in getting up, and much mental relief in quitting the town, though strongly persuaded to stay that we might behold the horsemanship of a Mr. West and his troop from England!
One circumstance however should make me remember Lexington with some satisfaction; with the improvidencevery common to travellers my resources had not been calculated properly, and I began to find that the purse would be emptied before we should gain the place of the next expected remittance. In this dilemma I sought the residence of the Cashier of the United States branch Bank, and stated the case to him; upon which he in the most gentlemanly manner cashed my draft: to the same gentleman on my return I was again beholden for assistance in managing an exchange of notes, and he may rest assured I shall not soon forget his urbanity.
Frankfort, KentuckyFrankfort, Kentucky
The approach, as well as the country immediately [76] around this capital of Kentucky, is beautiful; the size of the town may be considered about that of one of our better market towns: some of the private houses very well built of brick (the general material here) and very handsomely fitted up within. The building in which the senate of thirty-one Members, and the body of Representatives of about ninety, meet, is a fine object on entering the town from the western bridge; the Court-house is a very neat building and the whole effect renders it a far preferable residence to Lexington, except perhaps with a view to trade; and of that there seems very little. We found here an excellent tavern and hotel for families lately established by Colonel Taylor,33one of the old revolutionaryofficers: the building and interior would not disgrace our own capital, and our meals were served with every comfort and polite attention from his lady.
Upon inquiry both at Lexington and Frankfort I find that the price of land is about one-sixth of what it was three years ago; good land which then sold round Lexington for two hundred dollars per acre, may be bought now even for twenty-five,—and considerable tracts lying between the above towns for five and six dollars per acre.
[77] On leaving Frankfort about a mile, the western road leads winding up a considerable hill, from whence we were gratified with a fine view of the town and the surrounding woodland scenery: the day being beautiful, and time allowing, I determined to put up at the first house where we could find shelter for the horses, and return to sketch it: accordingly, we made up to a very respectable looking farm-house and asking permission to put the horses into a stable, it was granted; while this was doing I was in courtesy thanking the owner and expressing hopes that we should not put him to any inconvenience, when the inhospitable brute suddenly stopped me with "you need not be so full of your thanks for I mean to charge you for it!"—To be sure I lost no more time in compliments but, returning to the view, finished the sketch, and after a pleasant walk renewed my journey paying for shelter only above half a dollar; however I first lectured them until they were perhaps a little ashamed, but they took the money and we drove on, descanting upon the virtue of hospitality, to
A handsome town, of which the chief part is in one street. Here are two good hotels at one [78] of which (Allen's, a good family house,) we met with every attention on our return; but now, a cleaner looking house farther on inviting us, and being repelled by a crowd of travellers of all descriptions and variety of dress, smoking and lounging at the doors of the other two, we drove past; forgetting "farther on you may fare worse," which we certainly did.35
On settling an innkeeper's account I said that if we might judge by the charges, a man must soon become rich in his business; which he acknowledged would be the case were it not for bad notes and bilking customers, anecdotes of whom he told several: one young man after running a bill of three hundred dollars rode out one morning, as accustomed, to take the air andforgot to return; others have watched the departure of the steam vessels and set off to New Orleans, havingreckoned without their host, so that the losses are immense. These hints and others, I did not unfortunately hear until on my return, or I should not probably have been induced to trust to American honour in way of business so much as I did to my cost.
At all these houses a regular clerk and bar-keeper [79] is maintained with whom the travellergoesto settle, for a bill is never brought as in England; no ringing of the bell here and, when the waiter comes bowing in, "Desiremy bill immediately"—no; that would not suit with independence.
The bed of the river is here of vast breadth, and during the spring must afford a grand view when the waters are struggling with and rushing over the extensive rocky falls; at present a very small channel is sufficient for its reduced stream; people are employed on the dry bed in deepening the intended course for the boats, arks, &c. when the waters shall next rise to afford them a passage. Travellers of curiosity can now traverse on wheels, with a guide, the greatest part of the rocks over which in a few months a mighty body of waters will roll with tremendous force.
Three miles beyond Louisville the western road again brings you to the Ohio; and by a very ill conducted and apparently rather dangerous ferry we were wafted over, (after waiting for our turn with many waggons, &c. above three [80] hours,) and entered the State of Indiana at the town of New Albany;36where we found a very comfortable reception at the excellent family tavern kept by Dr. Hales, a physician. We had hitherto been frequently received by Representatives, Colonels, Majors, 'Squires, and Captains; these now sometimes give place to the medical profession. An American may be proud of his liberty, but the pride of a gentleman never stands in the way of a profitable speculation; idleness only is here a disgrace, and if a man of liberal education finds that his profession will not sufficiently remunerate him it is thought right that he should seek profit in trade.
I had quitted the State of Kentucky with impressions in its favour far stronger than that of Ohio had produced;—the climate is fine, the land fertile and well cleared, and inclosed; the houses well built, and the landscape as we passed frequently beautiful. But this is a slave State; and as this degraded situation of a part of our species has excited the horror of philanthropists on our side the globe, I will stop to say a few words on the subject; my observations being understood to be confined solely to the few slave States I have seen, and disclaiming, at the same time, all theoretic approbation of the institution. I have read, as others, with feelings of disgust [81] and injured pride of humanity, of estates to be sold with so many slaves upon them; and of the floggings unmerciful which authors have related; and, drawing conclusions from such statements, I expected to see the slave, in misery and wretchedness, bent down with labour and hard-living, but was very agreeably surprised to find the reverse. Slavery is not here what itmay bein our Colonies and perhaps, as I believe it is still worse, in the old quarters of the globe. By the spirit of the laws the black is hereindirectlybenefitted: though a slave, he is suffered to associate with his fellows, and one day in the seven (Sunday) is set apart for society with each other; and though there may be instances of cruel punishment, yet so numerous are the blacks becoming that it will soon be dangerous, if the time is not already arrived, for such instances to be repeated. And here lies the real objection to these slave States; the slaves begin to know their own strength, and probably would not long bear oppression. To see their well-proportioned figures easy and unconstrained, and lively countenances, a stranger might be led to think thattheywere in fact the masters of the ill-formed,emaciated, care-worn whites, were it not for the fine clothing of the latter: in short they are well clothed, fed, and taken care of, and [82] so numerous that I believe they are felt already in many places rather a burthen on the community than an advantage. As to the work they do, as far as I have had an opportunity to see, I should say it is so little, that an English labourer would with ease accomplish more in a day than two of them; and excepting a few of theold school, it is the general sentiment of the best informed Americans that they should be better off without slaves. But the sins of the fathers have fallen upon their sons, and, as far as human foresight may look into futurity, they never can get rid of the effects; they must always have an immense black population to support, unless indeed the period shall ever arrive when the latter shall change stations andsupport them.
We now meet at least as many parties going eastward as on the western route, which might be rather discouraging to those not accustomed to American restless search after gain; in this, all considerations of comfort, or attachment to home are lost. He makes a pig-inclosure of logs, a stable of the same, open to all the winds and to the poultry, and if his log house will keep out the worst of the weather it is sufficient: and thus, with such buildings, with just as much corn and fother as will keep him, his family, and his stock, the [83] settler passes his indolent days; smoking under the shed of his habitation, and waiting for some good offer for what he terms his improvement; when he immediately loads his waggon with his furniture and family, and without the shadow of regret leaves his abode to seek some other equally uncomfortable.
This State in respect to cultivation bears not at present any comparison with its neighbour, but in natural beautiesfar exceeds it. The variety of trees, shrubs, and flowers is great; the colours of the latter gratifying the eye in all the gay luxuriance of nature;—the timber trees grow to an enormous size; I measured an Oak which at four feet from the ground was twenty-four feet in circumferance, but there are larger trees here. We passed (chemin faisant) through several new settlements called by the people Towns, and which indeed may soon deserve the name; roads, bridges, mills for sawing, and other buildings—every thing in short, goes on with that spirit of enterprise which, in spite of poverty, is shewn by the people of America.
Paoli stands very pleasantly: Hindostan, on a branch of the White river communicating with the Ohio by the Wabash, also isto bea town of great trade: Washington is perhaps the worst situated for trade37but the land around it is [84] very fertile. There are also many other intended to-be towns, but at present containing about half a dozen log huts, such as Greensville, Brownsville, Fredericksberg, &c. &c. called thus after the first proprietor of the land, who, if he is so fortunate as to make choice of a favourable situation, rapidly makes his fortune by the quick influx of settlers; but this is not always the case and there are many "Villes" and "Bergs" which will probably long remain as we found them.
At Hindostan I met with an adventure which, considering how little respect is paid to any law, I might perhaps as well have avoided. At a miserable log tavern there, kept open (and to all the winds) by a Colonel, the entertainment both for man and horse was the worst we had lately met with—the hay it was pretended was too far off to fetch; and a few heads of Indian corn was all we could procure for the horses. For ourselves, after a miserable meal, we found a bed laid in an out-house, which also served for lumber-room and larder. All this travellers must learn chearfully to bear, but another evil, which too frequently follows, the high charges, it is not so easy to pay with good humour: in this case I ventured, as I had hitherto done with good effect, to reason against one or two of the items in a quiet delicate way fit for the ears [85] of an independent; but here it did not succeed, for my Colonel turned upon his heel saying, if I objected to his charges he would take nothing at all, and away he went. I had a great mind to take him at his word on account of his treatment; but after waiting for his return some time, with my horses at the door, I at length left with the Colonel's lady more than sufficient to defray the proper legal charge according to the rate made out by their magistrates, to which however few of them pay much attention: well, we then drove on, but had not got to the river side before a lad was sent after me with the money, for the Colonel had in fact been hiding to see what I would do, and coming out from his hole to hear what had been left for him, preferred venting his spite even before his money. I now determined to see how this would end, and therefore put the money into my pocket, drove down to the river side, and leaving my name and address at a store there for him, crossed the ford and proceeded. An hour or two after, my gentleman passed me on horseback, pale, "spiteful and wrathful," and we kept a good look out, a little apprehensive of beingrifled atfrom behind the trees; so we got the arms outready; and drove on with circumspection to the town of Washington about eighteen miles from [86] Hindostan. Here he had collected more people than I should have supposed possible in the short time, and had prepared his dramatis personæ, one of whom came immediately to arrest me; with this fellow I went to attend another whom they called a 'Squire, a whisky seller. At this respectable tribunal of the wilderness I stated my case with some difficulty from the noise and opposition, and expecting as much justice as I found, the 'Squire said the bill must be paid without referring to the rates; and as curiosity not resistance was my object, I at length paid it with about a quarter dollar, no great fee for his worship. Upon this, the Colonel was so elated with his victory that to shew his generosity, he said, he would treat his friends with half a dozen of wine and give the amount of his bill away; being satisfied with "shewingthe Englishmanthat he was not to be imposed upon;" and it was in fact this rancor against an Englishman, (not the first time I heard, it had been shewn by him in the present way;) and which indeed is very general, that had actuated him from our arrival at his log palace.
From the effects of wine added to the elation of spirits from victory, I fully expected the affair would not end yet, and, determined not to avoid any thing they might intend, I paced [87] before the tavern and mixed with the people in the general room; but whether the wine was put off for a glass round of the 'Squire's whiskey, or that it was swallowed quickly I know not, in a very short time they all quietly departed, and not a word or look could be construed insulting. This we must own would not have been the case while such feelings were afloat in some other countries, and was either very much to their credit or occasioned by a party against their proceedings, several of whom told me they had acted wrong and illegally.
While the towns are rapidly rising into being and improvement, the inhabitant of the wood, vegetating in his log cabin, seems to remain without increase of comforts, as he is without emulation to spur him on to obtain them. Being now beyond the boundaries of any regular tavern, necessity threw us upon seeking shelter for the night, in several of such habitations, open to every breath of the winds without, and swarming within with fleas, bugs, and other vermin: these are called "houses of entertainment;" they are known to those who cross this at present wilderness under such appellatives as "Preacher Biram's," "Preacher Blair's," "Widow More's," &c. At one of these, where, except a wretched shed behind for a kitchen, [88] there was only one room for all the purposes of life, we had put up for the night, and after such a supper as the house afforded, had lain down to endeavour to rest; not sleep, for that, not to mention the company above alluded to, would have been sufficiently prevented by the knives and forks of my host and his family at supper in the adjoining shed. After having watched for the end of this, with some hope that we might get sleep, and hearing at length the welcome sounds of putting away, I had just addressed myself to Morpheus, when a general chorus in all keys suddenly burst upon my ears—they had commenced at eleven o'clock at night their evening's devotion, put off perhaps by our arrival: when the psalm was ended, which was sunga pleine gorge, the preacher read a long homily, which took up near an hour more, and which finished the business, and quiet seemed likely to reign, when just as I had composed myself suddenly some one jogged my shoulders;it was my hostess come to tell me that two gentlemen, one a Dr. *****, and both particular friends of theirs had arrived, and wished to have supper in the room, however that it need not at all disturb us, as they were very nice gentlemen. However I strongly objected to this proposal; and after some demur [89] the gentlemen condescended to take their supper in the place which had just served for the domestic chapel and kitchen, and which I believe afterwards was the general dormitory of the party; after keeping it up very jovially until one or two o'clock of the morning, by which time the bugs, assisted by the light troops, had stormed and taken all my defences, and for the rest of the time effectually "murdered sleep."
The reader will not here mistake so far as to suppose I mean to treat lightly domestic worship, an observance for which we should all be better, and for which I could not but respect my host, hoping he was sincere in it; nor should the traveller be soured by the charges after suchentertainment, as he is too apt to be; but he should consider that he had met with the best reception in the power of the people to give: their only beds are given up for his convenience, while they probably sleep on a bench or on the ground, and if money is the view chiefly in all this, let money be freely given to discharge the obligation. I was angered with much more reason at my host's attempt to inveigle my man-servant from me with offers of twenty dollars per month, his board, &c.: these religious people are but too apt to disregard moral conduct as a thing altogether of [90] this world: many similar offers had I believe been made to him, which sufficiently proves the scarcity of active hands, and that such need not fear to want situations.
Long before we approach the neighbourhood of Vincennes the woodland opens here and there into what are termedbarrens; these are not generally flat but undulated, and covered with stunted oak, low beautifull shrubs, &c.; belted in with trees so fancifully disposed that one is apt to imagine the hand of art to have been employed: the land is not considered in general as of even second-rate quality, but it is dry and healthy, and, when cultivated, brings good corn if the summer is at all favourable; indeed, under the present drought I saw some fair crops at the few spots wheresquattershad fixed themselves. These barrens increase in size and number as we proceed westward, until they end in the so much talked ofprairieor wild meadows; in the midst of one of which, and upon the Great Wabash river stands the pleasant town of Vincennes, upon a sandy gravel sub-soil with excellent springs of water. Before we arrived at Vincennes, however, an adventure awaited us. We had baited at a house which we were told was but six miles from the town, and forgetting there is in these latitudes no twilight, had [91] staid too long, and in consequence found ourselves in complete darkness just on entering upon a large prairie; the road, which was nothing more than wheel-tracks could no longer be discerned, and I was obliged to direct two of our party to precede the carriage and find the way by feeling, not by seeing the track. In this manner we had not gone far when the guides stopped, declaring they heard the growl of some wild beast before them,—bears, wolves, and panthers, all of which I had just heard of, immediately came to mind, and I pulled up the horses to listen; when a tremendous roar was heard directly, succeeded by another which brought our guides, who were females, back upon the waggons, declaring that the animal approached. Very unwilling for the engagement, I then cocked my pistols,and calling to the man to do the same awaited for some time the attack; but finding the enemy did not come forward, I ventured to drive on, and soon discovered the object of our alarm to be a bull, which had probably been as much discomfited at our approach as we at his roars. We now resumed our stations, and though rain added to the dreariness of our situation, I had the satisfaction to find that all acted with spirit. After a doubtful march, which seemed of much longer duration than it really [92] was, we at length discovered some lights at a distance, and shortly after a horseman passed who gave us the welcome assurance that we were in a right direction; so completely dark was it however that even when we approached the town we could not find any track by which to enter it. In this dilemma, amidst a pouring rain, we were again aided by a good-natured Irishman, whose house we by chance came up against; for he mounted along side of my driver and piloted us to a tavern, glad enough to be relieved from cold, wet, dirt, and darkness, a good preparation for the enjoyment of a comfortable supper and bed, free from unpleasant bed-fellows.
This settlement, founded by some French families from Canada, though one year older than Philadelphia cannot like it boast of great extent and opulence;38it has not yet by any means lost its cabin appearance, though the beneficial effects of the New Orleans market are beginning to be very apparent; and good brick dwellings are fast erecting in the best situations, behind which its log huts arehiding their diminished [93] heads. A very good building of brick intended for a public school, has been erected by the aid of ample funds left by an individual for the purpose; yet, owing to strange neglect, the institution is suffered to go to decay and no master has been provided. A handsome house belonging to a General Harrison, the chief proprietor here, is also in a dilapidated state, the General having left it to reside elsewhere.39Further on, by the water-side, we visited a steam mill upon an extensive scale; which grinds corn, saws timber into boards, and cards wool and cotton; a most beneficial establishment for the surrounding country, though I was told, not just now a good concern to the proprietors. These, with two middling taverns, and a few substantial houses lately erected constitute the chief buildings; the rest are a heap of wooden huts occupied by traders in skins, and various other things with the natives. The Wabash, a fine river, floats the produce of this commerce and of the land, down to the Ohio, from whence it is conveyed to New Orleans chiefly in steam boats which return laden with goods for their market at an enormous profit. To elucidate a little the nature of this trade I enter a few memoranda.
Indian corn or maize is bought here of the farmer at about a quarter dollar the bushel, soon [94] after harvest; in spring it is sent down the river to New Orleans under a freight of another quarter dollar per bushel; and is sold there from seventy-five cents (three shillings and sixpence) to a dollar. Wheat is bought at a price about sixpence or sevenpence the bushel dearer than maize, and sells proportionally higher.
For a return lading, Salt is bought at half a dollar perbushel, and sells at Vincennes from two $ to two and a quarter $ ditto.