CHAPTER VI

PLEASURE HOUSE.PAGE 22

But this was too much. The officials who attended me there said that such an exception as this in my favor would awaken bitter criticism and jealousy, that one of the highest officials in the land was at that moment waiting at the gate for the shower to pass so that he could attend at an audience, and would be obliged to walk through the rain. They therefore begged that I would wave the fulfilment of the queen’s order and walk to my chair. I saw the reason and the good sense in their protest, and of course at once consented, as much comforted by the queen’s kind intention as if my slippers and silk gown had been well protected. This rule for the exclusion of chair coolies was changed soon after, and my chair was brought close to the royal apartments.

That summer was passed on a high bluff on the banks of the river, in a Korean summer house, which belonged to the king, which their majesties had allowed our mission to use a previous year, and which favor was now extended to us. It was situated on the rocks about fifty feet above the water, and was one of those charming, cool and picturesque summer refuges which Koreans understand building to perfection. Its roof, with artistically upward curving corners, was supported on several stout pillars, but its walls were all windows of light wood, in fancy open-work designs, which were covered with paper on one side, and which, being made to swing out and hook to the roof, formed a very effective awning. Here with a breeze always sweeping through, effectively screened from the sun, with a perfect view of the mountains and the Han River, with its lovely green valley, Mr. Underwood worked nearly all summer on his small dictionary, Mr. Gale or Mr. Hulbert giving him much useful help at times. My husband had been at work on a larger dictionary, which he planned to make a very full and complete one, for nearlythree years, and had already many thousands of definitions of words with synonyms. It was to be both Korean-English and English-Korean, not like the French, merely the Korean into the foreign tongue. It was a darling scheme of his heart, on which he was putting all the time that could be spared from direct mission work; but persuaded by his brethren that something was sorely needed immediately by missionaries now beginning to arrive, he laid hismagnum opusaside for the present, not without regret, but without a backward look, and working without cessation from early dawn into the night hours all that long summer, prepared and finished the small dictionary, for the convenience at the present indigent moment of those who were struggling with the language.

The following fall, the loved secretary, Dr. Mitchell, and Mrs. Mitchell visited our mission and gave us all much advice and help, for which we were most grateful. We were not then quite so well housed as now. Our homes were mud-walled and rather damp, often leaking badly in rainy season and admitting much frosty air through numerous cracks in the winter. Many of our windows were not glazed, but merely covered with paper. During the doctor’s visit there came one night a heavy storm of wind and rain, which beat against the window near our bed, and thoroughly demolished it, the rain pouring in on the floor. The roof leaked over us, but with umbrellas and waterproofs we kept quite dry. In the morning, however, at the sight of the flooded floor and the paper windows hanging in shreds, Dr. Mitchell gave us a severe reprimand for our carelessness, warning us that missionaries are far too expensive commodities to be so ill protected. A lesson it were well for all young missionaries to learn, but which, as a rule, alas! they are too slow to heed.

An Audience at the Palace—Dancing Girls—Entertainment Given after the Audience—Printing the Dictionary and Grammar—A Korean in Japan—Fasting to Feast—Death of Mr. Davies—Dr. Heron’s Sickness—Mrs. Heron’s Midnight Ride—Dr. Heron’s Death—Difficulty in Getting a Cemetery Concession—Forced Return to America—Compensations—Chemulpo in Summer—The “Term Question” in China, Korea and Japan—Difficulties in the Work.

Early in the fall of 1889 I was invited to another audience at the palace, with some of the foreign state officials and their wives. After the audience a dinner was served, and later, a performance by dancing girls was given. And right here I must say, that although on several occasions at the palace I have seen dancing girls in these entertainments, I have never beheld anything at such times in their actions that was improper or even undignified. Their motions are graceful, usually slow, circling around hand in hand or in various combinations of pretty figures. They wear high-necked and long-sleeved jackets or coats, and long skirts, the figure quite concealed by the fashion of the dress. And yet, thus to appear in public, allowing their faces to be seen by strangers, is the gravest breach of propriety in the eyes of all Koreans, and these girls are, alas! as depraved as women can be. Like those of their class in all countries, they are the most pitiable and hopeless of women, but unlike those who have thrown themselves away, they deserve small blame mixed with the compassion one feels for them, for these poor girlshave been sold by their parents into their awful lives, and were given no choice of their destiny. Many a poor little Korean child is sold into slavery for a few bags of rice, to be trained as a dancing girl, used as a common drudge, or married to a man she has never seen, while she is hardly larger than our little ones playing with their dolls in the nursery.

But to return to our palace entertainment, from which I have made a rather long digression. The guests were seated on the veranda, or “maru,” in front of the dining hall, and in the grounds before us appeared a pretty boat with wide spread sails, in which were seated some gaily dressed girls. Others now appeared, dancing to slow native music, a stately figure, almost in minuet fashion, with waving of flowing sleeves and banners. They were evidently the spirits of the wind, and the boat was waiting the favoring breeze. The music grew quicker, while faster and faster stepped the dancers, more and more swiftly fanning the sails with sleeves, skirts and scarfs, till at last the boat slowly moved forward, and with its attendants moved out of sight. When the boat had been thus gracefully fanned away, a couple of mammoth lotus plants were brought out, with great closed blossoms seen among the leaves.

Following them came a pair of gigantic storks, extremely well simulated. The birds came forward slowly, advancing, retreating, sideling, mincing, waiving their heads and long bills about, all in tune to the music, wavering and uncertain, yet evidently with some definite, not to be resisted, purpose in mind. At length, after long hesitation, one of them plucked up courage and gave a vigorous peck at a lotus bud, which forthwith burst open and released a pretty little child, who had been curled up at its heart. The other stork, with similar good fortune, discoveredanother little one. I was much interested to find this stork and baby myth here in Korea, centuries old; but those hoary nations of the East are ever reaching down into the apparently limitless depths of their remote past, and dragging forth some fresh surprise whereby to convince us there is nothing new under the sun.

Late in November of the same year we went to Japan to publish Mr. Underwood’s grammar and dictionary, as there were no means of printing such books in Seoul. In Japan we were forced to wait while type was made, and during this delay Mr. Underwood perfected the grammar, adding what is now the first part. A Korean teacher or scholar accompanied us, but great was his distaste for Japan and all her ways, and herculean our toils and efforts, as each steamer sailed to prevent his returning to Korea.

Rice is the staple article of food in China, Korea and Japan, but it is cooked and eaten differently in all three countries, and no one of either will, except under dire necessity, eat the rice prepared by one of the other nationalities. Our literary assistant was of theYangban, or noble class, he had never soiled his hands in labor, or cooked anything for himself, but after enduring a Japanese hotel with many and doleful complaints for a very short time, he begged us to find him a room and let him keep house for himself. That aYangbanshould make a proposition like this showed to what straits he had been brought, so we at once complied with his request, and from that time on he prepared his rice with his own gentlemanly hands. He was a Chinese scholar of fine attainments, and his learning was much respected in high Japanese circles. He was often invited out, and was distinguished by an invitation to the house of the governor of the city.

Now, when Koreans attend a feast, they expect to finish an incredible amount of food on the spot (nor is it altogether unusual, in addition, to carry away as much in their sleeves and hands as strength will permit). Sometimes they fast for several days previous in order to do full justice to the entertainment, and generally, I believe, quantity is considered of far more import than quality. Not so with the Japanese, among whom our teacher visited. If his word was to be believed, they had developed the æsthetic idea quite to the other extreme, and provided a few tiny cups and dishes of supposedly delicate and rare viands for their guests. So on this occasion to which I refer, it was almost pathetic, the poor Korean fasting to feast, with visions of quarts of rice and vermicelli soup, pounds of hot rice bread, nuts, fruits, fresh, dried and candied; meats with plenty of hot sauce, “kimchi,” or sauerkraut, etc., etc. Alack the day! A few microscopic cups of tea, a few tiny dishes of articles which knew not Korea (among them no doubt raw fish), and for the rest, a feast of reason and flow of soul. Next day, a wiser and a thinner man, he sadly told Mr. Underwood that he now understood why Japanese prospered, while Koreans grew poor. “Koreans,” said he, “earn a hundred cash a day and eat a thousand cash worth, while Japanese, on the contrary, earn a thousand cash a day and eat a hundred cash worth.” Never were truer words spoken, with regard to the Japanese at least. If these people have a virtue, which their worst enemies cannot gainsay, it is their industry and thrift.

Just what is the ordinary number of slight earthquakes in Japan per month or year, I do not know, but during the six months of our stay they averaged one every three days. During one twenty-four hours of our experience there were eleven. They were not, of course, severe, butsufficient to swing doors, set chandeliers clattering and rocking chairs in motion,, and to convince me more than once that the house was on the point of tumbling about our ears.

Just before we returned to Korea we were shocked to hear of the sudden death by smallpox of Rev. Mr. Davies, a brother greatly beloved in the Lord, who had arrived early the previous summer and had made phenomenal progress in the language, whose gifts and learning were unusual, but were all excelled by his spirituality and consecration. His zeal never permitted him to spare himself in the least. He seemed to link himself at once, heart to heart, with Mr. Underwood, and together they planned, studied, worked and prayed for the salvation of the people. It was as if death had entered our own family when news came of his loss, and a black pall seemed to lie across our path. We knew God does all things well, and his ways are not our ways, nor his thoughts ours, and yet in the weakness of the flesh, which cannot see, with all those unsaved millions dying around us, we felt we could not spare Mr. Davies, and to us, to whom he had been confidant, sympathizer, counselor and friend, the personal loss was bitter. But we have learned that often when we think, or come in any way to feel that his cause depends on a man, God removes him, to teach us that his cause depends on no man, that he can bless the efforts of the weakest and poorest and feed five thousand from the basket of a little boy.

On April 26, 1890, the books were finished, and we started at once for Korea, reaching here in May. Soon after our return from Japan we were visited by Dr. and Mrs. Nevius. We all recognized Dr. Nevius as a king among men, with a mind so clear and broad, a spirit so genial, a heart so full of charity and with a record of such long years of faithful labor that we were glad to sit at hisfeet. The sense of ignorance, incompetence, inexperience, combined with a realization of awful responsibility, is almost overwhelming to the young missionary on a new field, and it is only by constantly leaning on the almighty arm that he is kept from despondence and despair. At such times the advice of such an elder brother is invaluable.

The little missions had by this time been reinforced by several arrivals, and the following summer, which was very warm, many of them went to Namhan (Southern fortress) to spend the hot months. Seoul lies in a basin, encircled by mountains, and is extremely unhealthy in summer, its festering pools and ditches overflowing with filth, steaming a very witches brew of evils upon the sickened air, with odors unspeakable and undreamed of in civilized lands. Namhan is about seventeen miles distant from Seoul, on top of a mountain, not quite two thousand feet high. It lies on the further side of the Han River, but is fairly easy of access, reached by a steep road winding up the mountain.

Dr. Heron had taken his family there, and frequently traveled back and forth to his duties in Seoul, which was doubtless too much for his strength in those hot and humid days. He was soon attacked by dysentery, which did not at first seem serious, and was consequently ignored too long. It finally developed into the most malignant form of the disease, which resisted every effort of the physicians, Drs. Scranton and MacGill, who were unremitting in the struggle in which they were steadily worsted. As soon as the symptoms began to look grave Mrs. Heron was sent for. In great distress and alarm, she set off that very evening, in a terrible storm of rain and wind, a very carnival, no torch or lantern could be kept alive, the wind howling around the frail chair as if to tear it from itsbearers’ hands. The roads, steep and difficult in pleasant weather, were really dangerous when slippery with mud and water, in darkness so absolute that not one step in advance could be seen, while in the woods and valleys the coolies were sometimes up to their waists in water. Drenched to the skin, this poor afflicted young wife arrived at her home near morning, after traveling all night in this terrible storm, to find her husband fatally ill. After a little more than three weeks’ sickness and great suffering, Dr. Heron passed away, to the grief and loss of the whole foreign community, as well as that of the Koreans (and they were many) with whom he had come in contact, to all of whom he had endeared himself by untiring kindness.

GATE IN THE WALL OF NAMHAN.PAGE 98

The government had never set aside any land for a foreign cemetery near Seoul, although in accordance with the treaty they should have done so long before. A strong superstition and very rigid law forbid the burial of the dead within the city walls, and hitherto the few Europeans who had died had been buried in the cemetery near Chemulpo. But to carry remains thirty miles in the heat of July, to the port, with no conveyances but chairs, to be forced to bury our dead so far away, was unnecessary, inconvenient and expensive, as well as an additional trial to hearts already sore. As soon, therefore, as Dr. Heron’s death seemed inevitable, a request was made that the government would set apart a place near the city for this purpose. This, with characteristic procrastination, they failed to do.

On the day of Dr. Heron’s death they offered a place which we found altogether impossible, beyond the sand beds across the river, a long distance off, in very low ground. It was then decided that as something immediate must be done, we would make a temporary resting place ona piece of ground belonging to our mission, where there was a small house, occupied just then by Mr. Underwood’s and Dr. Heron’s literary helpers. As soon as they heard of this plan they objected most strongly, saying it was against the law, and as the body must be carried through the streets to reach there, there would probably be a good deal of excitement and trouble.

We then ordered the grave dug on Dr. Heron’s compound, back of his house, sending word to the Foreign Office that as they had provided no other place, we were forced temporarily at least to make this disposal of the remains. The time for the funeral was set for three o’clock, and about a half hour before the literary helpers again came to us in a state of the wildest excitement and terror, tearing their hair, weeping and trembling. They averred that the people in that quarter were planning to mob us all, to burn down their house, beat and kill them, and very likely kill us too, if the body was buried within the walls.

It seemed cruel that no place could be found where we could lay our dead. Our hearts were torn with grief for the poor burdened sister, who ought to have been able to claim a quiet and decent burial for her dear one’s remains, as well as the sympathy of every one, that she must be refused a place for his repose, and assailed by all this wrangling and confusion. We were hotly indignant with the teachers, who we thought ought to have risen above heathen superstition on their own part and kept the secret from the people. It was now uncertain where Dr. Heron’s remains could be laid, and they were therefore embalmed and hermetically sealed. The Foreign Office, however, on hearing that it was our intention to bury on the compound, at once came to terms and gave us a large field on a fine bluff overlooking the river, about five miles from Seoul.This was obtained through the indefatigable efforts of Dr. Allen of the United States legation, who besieged the foreign office and insisted on this concession.

During all these months the work was steadily going forward; more than we had dared to hope were added to the number of believers and inquirers; a Bible translating committee, of which Dr. W. B. Scranton of the M. E. Mission and Mr. Underwood were members, had been appointed; a girls’ school in each of the two missions had been started long before, and both were steadily growing (though the Methodists were far in advance here), the boys’ orphanage had been changed to a boys’ school, and hospital and dispensary work in both missions was flourishing; with an increase of confidence of the people in our friendship and trustworthiness.

In the early fall a new member of the mission appeared in our family, making life richer, in a measure absurdly disproportionate to his dimensions and weight. Some months after this, sickness, growing more and more threatening and intractable, followed, until the doctors’ verdict was that a return to America was the only condition, and (that a doubtful one) on which life could be saved. The kindness and goodness of the whole community shown to me were beyond expression. Here in the East, where the ordinary conveniences of large cities are not to be had for money, where we are very dependent on each other’s kind offices, mutual love and service draw and bind us very closely together.

I was nursed, and friends and neighbors helped my husband pack away our goods, for a year’s absence means that everything must be nailed or locked or sealed up from mildew, moth, rust, rats and robbers. Furniture must be compactly stowed away so that the house may be occupied by other homeless missionaries waiting for an appropriationfor a house. They sewed for baby and me, and spared neither pains nor trouble to help us. Two of the ladies, Mrs. Bunker and Miss Rothweiler, went with us to Chemulpo, a journey which I made, carried by six coolies to ensure steadiness, on a long steamer chair, stopping over night, half way, at a primitive Japanese hotel.

I can never tell with what regret, shame and pain I left Korea. I had looked forward with pleasure to a return after a long period of years, when the work had been well begun and the appointed time had come, when something had been accomplished, but to gonow, afailure, to leave my work scarcely begun, perhaps never to return, was bitter. But more bitter still was the thought that I was dragging my husband, in the freshness of his health and vigor, back from a life of usefulness, where workers were pitiably few and calls for help from all sides were many and loud. Christian tracts and hymn books were needed, the Bible, as yet not translated, the dictionary not half finished, schools to be established, a fast growing band of Christians to be nourished and taught, and when I thought of it all, it looked dark.

But God brought a blessing out of it, as he always does from every seeming misfortune, for through that return to America several missionaries were obtained, a new mission established and greater interest in Korea aroused in the minds of American, Canadian and English Christians.

“Man’s weakness waiting upon God its end can never miss,For man on earth no work can do more angel-like than this.He always wins who sides with God—to him no chance is lost;God’s will is sweetest to him when it triumphs at his cost.Ill that he blesses is our good, and unblest good is ill,And all is right that seems most wrong, if it be His sweet will.”

On our return to Korea most of the summer was spentat Chemulpo, as our baby was very sick. We stopped in a so-called “hotel,” kept by Chinamen. The long hot nights were rendered almost intolerable by the noise and odors of such a place. From early in the evening till past midnight we were tortured by the high falsetto singing of the actors in a Chinese theatre across the street. The sailors returning to the gunboats in the bay kept the dogs in fits of frenzied barking, which would have effectually murdered sleep had it ever ventured near. By the time the dogs had begun to regain their composure, the Japanese venders of vegetables, fish, etc., with a devotion to business which under any circumstances ought to have won high praise, began with loud strident voices to call their wares under my window until it was time to rise and face a new day.

All day I brooded over my starving little son with an aching heart, looking out across the long reaches of dreary mud flats to the sea, watching for the steamer that was bringing the only food that he could digest, and prayed it might not come too late. Day by day the little life trembled in the balance, but at last the ship came in, and never was argosy from the Indies laden with gems and treasures untold half so welcome. Never could ship come to me with half so precious a cargo as that which brought my baby strength and life.

In the meanwhile Mr. Underwood toiled in the city, overseeing the repairs on our house, for we must be builders, contractors, carpenters, gardeners and jack of all trades, and throughout the summer working unremittingly on a hymn book which the little church now greatly needed.

The “term question” is a vexed problem which as yet has failed to find a solution that secures the assent of all missionaries. This question relates to the proper word tobe used for God. China, Japan and Korea alike use the Chinese characters and have words which mean “gods,” or things worshiped, but they do not have either a definite article or capitals, such as those by which in English we can change “gods” into “the God” or “God.” They also havenames(quite a different matter) signifying the chief god of heaven (Sangchai or Hannanim), the god of earth (Tangnim) and others.

Some missionaries hold that by using this name of the chief god of heaven and explaining it by instructing the people in the character and attributes of him whom they ignorantly worship, they will more easily understand and more readily accept our teaching. Many also believe that the name really refers to the great God of heaven, although of course it is impossible to claim that it refers to the one only God, since all the heathen who worship this one also worship countless other smaller deities.

On the other hand are those who conscientiously believe that the personal name of a heathen deity should not in any way be applied to the Eternal Jehovah, that such a course is in direct conflict with God’s own word. Then aside from their convictions on this matter they believe that the use of a heathen cognomen of one of these gods, be he of heaven or earth, applied to the great “I am” may, in addition to being forbidden, lead to dangerous mistakes in the minds of the members of the infant native church. They believe, in short, that a false thing can never be right, and that to address Jehovah by a name not his, but another’s, cannot be right or result well in the end. This view has been adopted by missionaries of all creeds in Japan, a large minority of Protestants, and all Romanists in China, and by all the Episcopalians and Romanists in Korea. They use the name Jehovah for God.

HOUSE USED BY MISSIONARIES ON TOP OF NAMHAN.PAGE 98

Almost the entire body of the Presbyterian and Methodist missionaries in Korea, and a majority of them in China, belong to the other party, although quite essentially different words are used by the Chinese missionaries from those used in Korea. The Chinese use Sangchai; the Koreans, Hannanim.

It is with no controversial intent that this matter is referred to here. It is indeed a vexed question, but one whose satisfactory settlement is to be devoutly hoped for. No little feeling has been awakened, because it is a question which has involved in the minds of many some very deep principles.

The only reason for referring to this matter is that men and women in Christian lands may gain a little glimpse of some of the difficult and perplexing problems which confront the workers in some of the mission fields. These problems vary in different countries, but they all have their difficulties.

Immediately after our return Mr. James Gale’s Grammatical Forms was published, and about a year later his Korean-English dictionary, so that the mission was now supplied with several language helps. Much stress had been laid from the first upon securing a thorough mastery of Korean, and each missionary was required to pass three very rigid annual examinations. A course of study for first, second and third grades was made out for each year, to assist students, and members of the examination committee and others were appointed to oversee and aid the language study of the newcomers.

The Mission in 1893—“The Shelter”—Opening of Japanese War—Seoul Populace Panic Stricken—Dr. and Mrs. Hall in Pyeng Yang—Heroic Conduct of Native Christians—Condition of Pyeng Yang after the War—Dr. Hall’s Death—Preaching the Gospel at the Palace—The Queen Seeks to Strengthen Friendly Relations with Europeans—Her Majesty’s Generosity—A Little Child at the Palace—The Slaves of the Ring—A Christmas Tree at the Palace—The Queen’s Beneficent Plans—The Post Office Emeute of 1884—A Haunted Palace—The Murder of Kim Oh Kiun.

In the fall of 1893 we moved too early into a house recently repaired and not yet completed, with wet mud walls and no windows fitted in some of the rooms. It seemed a necessity, but resulted in continued sickness through the entire winter for the little one and myself, so that I was largely debarred from the good work going on among the Koreans. Many of the middle and lower classes were coming into the church, men’s and women’s meetings were well attended, and even the little boys in the school seemed full of Christlike zeal, and spent some of their holiday and play hours in telling the good tidings and distributing tracts. One of our missionaries, Dr. Moffett, had been appointed to Pyeng Yang, other appointments of Presbyterians to the same place soon following, as well as that of Dr. and Mrs. Hall from the Methodist Mission.

On my own part, a little, very interrupted medical work was done, and women’s meetings were begun and carried on with great difficulty on account of deficient knowledge of the language, but little by little, in trying ever so lamely to use what I had, I rapidly gained more and more, so thatI could soon talk and pray with freedom, if not always with perfect elegance and correctness, and as my chief aim was to be understood by the Koreans, not to display myself as an accomplished linguist, I was satisfied and happy when I had proof of this. Other women by this time were prepared to do this work well, in all three missions; and our poor native sisters were being reached in various quarters. I had been invited to the palace several times, my child was also asked there, and petted and loaded with kindness.

The Bible translating committee had been enlarged and now included Rev. H. G. Appenzeller (M. E.) and Mr. James S. Gale (Presby.), in addition to Dr. Scranton and Mr. Underwood. Lesson leaves were prepared for our Bible classes, and a number of tracts were being translated by various missionaries. Before our return to America in 1891, and for some years after, it was the cruel custom among wealthy natives to put servants, dependents or strangers at once on the street, if afflicted with any infectious disease, and it was the commonest occurrence to find poor people lying by the roadside, either exposed to the bitterest blasts of winter or the blazing heat of midsummer. Sometimes a friend or relative had erected a rude hut of thatch over the sufferer, sometimes a whole family together occupied such a hut, the dead and living lying together. It was our heart’s desire to obtain in some way the means to buy or build a hospital for such cases. While we were in America small sums were put at odd times into our hands “for the work,” and as these sums increased we decided to use the money for this long-cherished purpose.

Soon after our return, we were able, at a very low price, to buy a beautiful piece of ground on a breezy hillside, covered with fine trees and with a good tiled house havingsix or seven rooms. This was large enough for our present purpose, and money in hand was not sufficient to build the sort of hospital of which we dreamed. So we repaired the old building and added a caretaker’s quarters. We made the institution undenominational, arranging that any one might place cases of infectious disease there, which should be attended by any doctor desired. At the same time a little dispensary, given in memory of her only son by Mrs. Hugh O’Neil, of New York, was opened not far from the “Shelter,” as it was called, on the main road to the north. Here, in addition to medical work in a small way, women’s Bible classes were held, men’s and women’s evening prayer meetings, and often Sabbath morning services. July of 1894 saw the beginning of the China-Japan war in Korea, and the capture of Seoul by the Japanese. We were awakened one morning by the sound of firing, and soon learned that the palace was in possession of the Japanese. Excitement rose quite high among both foreigners and natives.

All the legations ordered up troops from the port where our gunboats lay, for our protection, although it is difficult to see how, in a case of serious danger, such small numbers would be of any service. There were fifty Russians, forty Americans, forty English and nine German marines. The natives, high and low, were in a state of panic. The nobility fled from their homes in large numbers and in all sort of disguises, and sought refuge at the foreign legations, or in the country; and to the country the common people starteden masse. Every shop was closed, the city had the look of a plague-infested place. A solemn procession of men, women, chairs, pack-ponies, a continuous throng, in dead silence, with rapid steps, and set, terror-stricken faces, poured through the main thoroughfares and out of the gates. Many pathetic littlegroups were to be seen; little children, whose parents in wild fear had deserted or lost them in the crowd, trotting along with tear-stained faces, alone; women with babies on their backs and babies hanging at their skirts; men carrying all their worldly goods on their shoulders, here and there coolies with the chair of some frightened rich man or fine lady, shoving aside the crowd. High and low, rich and poor, hurrying away from the dreaded Japanese, the ancient enemy of their nation. How it made one realize the great multitude of unsaved peoples, pushing its way along the broad road and through the wide gate that leads to destruction. “And when he beheld the multitudes he had compassion on them as sheep having no shepherd.” The servants in every family gave notice; they dared not stay, they said, since to remain would be to be killed by Chinese or Japanese. We reminded them that we were neither afraid nor making any preparations for flight, and at last only persuaded some of them to remain by promising that we would never go and leave them, which we had fully decided upon on account of the native Christians.

Some very exciting and trying events had in the meanwhile been taking place in Pyeng Yang. In the previous May Dr. William James Hall of the M. E. Mission took his wife and baby to that city to start a station, and to take up a permanent residence. They were almost mobbed by the curious throngs, whom they were unable to control. No police could be obtained from the governor, who in addition, on the second or third day after their arrival, arrested and threw into jail Dr. Hall’s helper and the man from whom he had bought his house. This is the approved method of forcing a man to give up a house or piece of ground to which he holds a good title, but which Korean officials object, for any reason, to his keeping.

Dr. Hall had selected this property because it was in a thickly populated part of the town, where he believed he could do most good, but he had positively refused to pay a tax, which former owners had always paid to a certain devil-worship and sorceress house in the vicinity.

Dr. Moffett’s helper and the former owner of his house were also cast in jail, and his native Christians cruelly beaten, at the time when Dr. Hall’s men were seized. It was evident missionaries were not to be tolerated in Pyeng Yang. One or two other M. E. native Christians were then also arrested and beaten. Dr. Moffett was in the capital, and the Halls were quite alone in this large town, among many enemies, several days’ journey from Seoul and help. The situation was grim. Dr. Hall was obliged to leave his helpless wife and baby alone in the unprotected house while he visited the governor, or the Chinese telegraph office (both long distances away), or in trying to relieve or help the Christians in the jail.

As soon as his first message arrived in Seoul, a general meeting of all the missionaries was called at our house for united prayer for the Halls and our poor tortured native brethren. Dr. Scranton, Dr. Moffett and Mr. Underwood at once hastened to the American and English legations, and obtained through them an order from the Foreign Office to the governor, to release the Christians and pay damages for the injured property. Although this was wired at once to Pyeng Yang, the only apparent result was that the natives were more cruelly beaten and water-carriers forbidden to take water to the Halls, their house stoned and the walls torn down. The natives bore their cruel treatment heroically, and refused to give up their faith; they were then removed to the death cell, and the governor sent them word of his intention to execute them. Two despatches from Seoul had been received by the governor,but still no signs of change. In the meanwhile it was decided that some of the missionaries from Seoul should go to Dr. Hall’s help. Mr. Moffett claimed the right to go, as his native Christians were there in trouble, and Mr. McKenzie, from Canada, was allowed to accompany him, being an unmarried man, although several others stoutly urged the best reasons why they should go, like boys begging for a holiday rather than men going to face a very serious and doubtful situation.

We all feared that Dr. and Mrs. Hall, as well as the Christians’ lives, would be sacrificed to the malice of the mob and the governor before sufficient influence could be brought to bear by our legations through the Foreign Office to save them. By the time the two men from Seoul had arrived there, however, five days later, the Christians had been released, after being again badly beaten and stoned. Dr. and Mrs. Hall for a month following treated patients and preached the Word, but when war seemed imminent they were ordered back to Seoul, where they returned, as well as Mr. McKenzie, Dr. Moffett following somewhat later, having lingered as long as possible to encourage and hearten the Christians. Pyeng Yang was now in the hands of the Chinese, and Seoul in those of the Japanese. The summer was a very hot and unhealthy one, and there was scarce a family among the foreigners where there was not one or more cases of severe and prostrating sickness. Two little ones died, and there were long hours of agonized watching, when dear lives seemed for hours to be slipping over the brink. None of us could leave the city to seek for purer air or water, no pure milk could be had, and one poor young father, whose little child was literally starving for digestible nourishing food, remembering his father’s farm with its good milk cows, remarked pathetically, “In my father’s house thereis food enough and to spare, while I perish with hunger.”

On the first of October, after the defeat of the Chinese, the Presbyterian missionaries and Dr. Hall returned to Pyeng Yang to look after the interests of the stations left so long, in a city which had passed through such a hard experience.

Pyeng Yang was in a fearfully unhealthy condition. One of the missionaries wrote, “The decaying bodies of men, horses and cattle were so numerous, that no matter whatever direction we went we came across them constantly, so that the atmosphere was foul beyond expression.” Another wrote, “In one place I counted over twenty bodies, literally piled one on top of another, lying just as they had been shot down.... In another place, where a body of Manchurian cavalry ran into an ambush of Japanese infantry, the carnage was frightful, several hundred bodies of men and horses lying just as they had fallen madea swath of bodies nearly a quarter of a mile long and several yards wide. It was three weeks after the battle and the bodies were all there unmolested.”

According to a native superstition that the city is a boat, and to dig wells would sink the boat, there were no wells in Pyeng Yang; but a large number of bodies of men and horses were lying in the river, polluting for weeks the only water supply. In this dreadful situation our brave missionaries remained and worked, and on October 17th Dr. Hall wrote the following cheerful words, “We have very interesting services, the hymns of praise that less than a year ago brought cursing and stones are now listened to with delight, and carry with them a feeling of security similar to the sound of a policeman’s whistle in New York. Comparatively few of the Koreans have returnedto their homes, but every day brings fresh additions. Every day numbers of those who have returned and those from the surrounding villages and towns visit us. They buy our books and seem far more interested in the gospel than I have ever seen them before.”

DESERTED ROYAL DINING HALL.PAGE 121

Very soon after writing these words Dr. Hall returned to Seoul; the boat on which he came was full of sick Japanese soldiers. There were cases of typhus fever and army dysentery, the water was doubtless poisoned, and he reached Seoul, after numerous most trying vicissitudes, fatally ill with typhus fever. Quite early, articulation became very difficult, but every halting sentence spoke of perfect peace and joy, and almost his last words were, “I’m sweeping through the gates.” Tears dim my eyes while I write, for we all not only loved, but reverenced Dr. Hall, and we felt that he possessed a larger share of the Master’s spirit than most of us. His very entrance into a room seemed to bring the Lord nearer, and his looks, words and conduct unexceptionally revealed the power and beauty of Christ. No one ever heard Dr. Hall speak a harsh or bitter word, no one ever heard him criticise a brother Christian, no one, to the best of my information, ever knew of him anything that was not noble, true, faithful and Christlike. His face beamed with a celestial light, and without his ever assuming to be in any way better than others, we all felt he was a holy man. Europeans and natives alike testified to the same impressions of him, the same love for him, his sweet spirit drew all hearts to him, so that he was both universally loved and honored.

While we who were in Seoul had all suffered more or less from ill health, everything was quiet and orderly, and the Japanese deserve great credit for the fine discipline of the army, and the good order and comfort of nativesand foreigners in a city entirely at the mercy of the victorious troops of an Eastern nation.

During the fall and winter of ’94 and spring of ’95 the queen sent for me very often, asking many questions about foreign countries and their customs, and chatting most affably. Frequently we dispensed altogether with the formality of an interpreter, and the king and crown prince, who were often present, were quite as frequently elsewhere, so with her majesty so friendly and kind, I at times almost forgot that I was not having atête à têtewith an intimate friend. I of course felt my great responsibility heavily, and was overwhelmed at times with the thought of my duty and inefficiency. At length I asked the prayers of the missionaries that an opportunity to speak to the queen about Christ might be given me, and that I might realize it and make the best use of it. And now my anxiety and trouble of mind passed away and a restful contentedness took its place. I felt sure that I was to be guided and led at the right time.

On the day before Christmas the queen sent for me and asked me to tell her about our great festival, its origin and meaning, and how celebrated. Could any one ask clearer guidance or a better opportunity? It would be impossible not to tell the gospel story under such circumstances, and so I told her of the angels’ song, and the star, and the little babe that was laid in a manger, of the lost world to be redeemed, of the one God who so loved the world, and the Redeemer who came to save his people from their sins.

She listened intently, and with deep interest, turning from time to time and repeating it in a most animated and sympathetic way to the king and prince, who did not understand my accent so well.

A few days later, after asking many questions aboutmy own country, she said rather sadly, “Oh, that Korea were as happy, as free and as powerful as America!” Here was another opportunity which I tried to improve by saying, that America, though rich and powerful, was not the greatest or the best, attempting to picture that better land without sin, pain or tears; a land of endless glory, goodness and joy. “Ah!” exclaimed the queen, with unspeakable pathos, “how good it would be if the king, the prince and myself might all go there!”

Poor queen! her kingdom threatened on all sides, at that time in the hands of an ancient foe, traitors and relentless enemies among her own people and kindred, and some of the men whom she had raised and advanced ready and plotting then to betray her to death. No wonder she sighed for that haven of peace and rest. But I was forced to tell her very sadly, that no sinners might enter there. “No sinners!” Her face fell, the bright look faded, for she knew, accustomed though she was to almost divine honors, that she was a sinner. Then as silence fell in the room, I told her the good tidings, that all who would trust in Jesus were forgiven and purified through him, and so made holy and fit for that country. She listened very thoughtfully, and though no other opportunity came to talk further on this subject, I was unspeakably thankful that I had been permitted on these occasions to point out clearly the way of salvation.

I think that in this time, when her nation’s helplessness and weakness were emphasized, the queen sought to strengthen friendly relations with European and Americans. She gave several formal audiences to European and American ladies, and all who met her felt her powerful magnetic charm and became at once her friends and well-wishers. Twice during that winter the queen bade me ask all my friends to skate on the pond in the palacegardens, graciously asking me to act as hostess in her place and serve tea in the little pavilion near-by.

On Christmas day her majesty sent a beautiful sedan-chair, which had been her own, covered with blue velvet and lined with Chinese brocaded silk, and with it any number of screens, mats, rolls of cloth and interesting and curious articles of Korean manufacture, with great quantities of eggs, pheasants, fish, nuts and dates, and on the Korean New Year’s day five hundred yen, which the queen requested me to use in the purchase of pearls, or something similar, for myself, and a gift as well for my little son.

He was then between four and five years of age, and the palace women were constantly urging me to bring him with me to the palace. This, of course, I would not do without a special request from their majesties, and at length one day the queen asked why I had never brought him, expressed surprise that I considered an invitation necessary, and bade me bring him next day. I therefore took him to the palace, and no sooner had the coolies lowered my chair than the women, who were evidently on the watch for us, clutched him up and bore him away in triumph, I, his mother, knew not whither. Some few minutes elapsed before I was asked to go from the waiting room to the audience, during which I employed my time in lively conjectures as to what was happening to my kidnapped son. When I was called for a little later I found him with the royal party, the center of an admiring circle.

Both the king and queen have always shown a passionate fondness for children. Only a few months ago the king spent nearly four hundred thousand dollars on sorcerers and temples in trying to mollify the smallpox god, which had attacked the youngest son, a boy of about six.So no wonder they were kind to the small American. The queen ordered nuts and candies brought in, and insisted on his eating then and there, although, knowing that it was bad form in the eyes of Koreans as well as of foreigners to eat in the royal presence, and fearing for his health as well (for he had never as yet eaten nuts), I begged her majesty to allow this treat to be postponed. His looks and actions were praised far beyond their deserts, and every expression noted and remarked upon. The queen drew the child to her side in a motherly fashion, placing her hand on his forehead, remarked anxiously that it was too hot.

When we were ready to go, the king, to my amazement, actually knelt down in front of the baby, and with his own “jade” fingers buttoned on the little coat and made a brave attempt to tie the cap strings, one of which, I blush to confess, in the unfamiliar tug was quite torn from its moorings. Of course I was overwhelmed with confusion over the bad conduct of the ribbon on such an occasion, but the king overlooked it, and farewells were said and again the child was spirited swiftly away by the palace women. I found him in the women’s quarters handed round like a curio from one to another, petted, caressed, discussed, half-frightened, but demure.

Poor palace women! with no homes or children, living such an aimless, shut-in life, a child in their midst was a godsend indeed. But all Koreans are extremely fond of children. A child is an open sesame to their hearts and homes at all times. God blesses the missionary babies, and these little preachers open doors that yield to no other touch than their little dimpled fingers. From palace to hovel I never found a woman whose heart would not soften, whose eyes would not brighten, whose interest could not at once be enlisted by the sight of a child.

That evening as we returned home through the narrow and winding streets of Seoul we were quite an imposing procession. A number of palace lantern bearers accompanied us, each carrying the gayly-colored silk official lanterns of their majesties, and preceding us were a train of servants, carrying on their heads great trays of oranges, nuts, dried persimmons and candies. It took little imagination, looking at those men in their Eastern attire, at the lanterns and streets, and even our own chair with its oriental splendor, to transport ourselves into the middle of a chapter of the Arabian nights, with a little Aladdin sitting in my lap and the slaves of the ring attending us home.

Soon after Christmas I dressed a Christmas tree for the royal family, but to my great vexation, the effect was quite spoiled because their majesties were too impatient to wait till dark to view it, and one cannot lock the doors on kings and queens and forbid them to do as they will in their own palaces. There were no heavy hangings or means of darkening the room, and so the poor little candles flickered in a sickly way in the glaring daylight, and I felt that Western customs were lightly esteemed in the critical eyes of the East.

Indeed, in our superb self-satisfaction we often deceive ourselves in fancying that Orientals view with open-mouthed admiration everything European or American. I am reminded of a Korean nobleman, who, on being asked, after his return to Seoul from America, how he liked New York, replied, “Oh, very well,except the dirt and the smells, which were horrible.” Another similar instance was that of one of the Koreans who went with us to Chemulpo and Fusan, who saw the two-story houses, the ships in the harbor and various wonders of civilization, and exclaimed, “Poor Korea, poor Korea;” but whenhe heard a foreign band play at the Japanese consulate, remarked with delight, “At least there is one thing in which Japan cannot rival or compare with us, our music!”

Through the whole winter I was at the palace very often, as were the ladies of the American and Russian legations, and Dr. Avison of our mission, who was physician to the king, was frequently consulted, and the recipient also personally of many royal favors. In the spring the prime minister came, saying the queen had sent him to ask Mr. Underwood to draw up plans and estimate the cost of a school for the sons of the nobility. The site selected was between the east and west palaces. Her majesty proposed to erect dwellings for the teachers, whom my husband was asked to recommend and send for to America. The queen was prepared, the minister said, to give at once thirty thousand dollars for the school, and twenty or thirty thousand dollars a year for the running expenses.

Mr. Underwood drew up the first plans and made estimates, which were sent for her majesty’s criticism and approval. These were again referred to Mr. Underwood, the final plans were being prepared, and only two weeks before they were to be sent for the queen’s approval the great blow fell which put an end to all her beneficent and enlightened schemes for the advancement of her people.

Before proceeding further I must go back a few years and recall one or two events which occurred before my arrival, in 1884, in order that my readers may understand more clearly some of the events which are to be related in the next two or three chapters.

In that year the progressive or reform party in Korean politics was led by a man called Kim Ok Kiun, but they were continually foiled in all their attempts towards advance and reform by the conservatives, and at length receivedreliable information (so they claimed) that a plan had been formed to murder all their prominent leaders at midnight, on December the fourth. On this evening a banquet was to be given in honor of the opening of the Korean post-office, and the progressives resolved to forestall the plans of their opponents, and just before the dinner they cut down Min Yung Ik, the queen’s cousin, and the most influential man in the kingdom. He would have died had it not been for the prompt assistance given by Dr. Allen, then of our mission. The other conservative leaders were then ordered to the palace, as they supposed, by royal command, but were there (five of them) assassinated by the progressive party, who, headed by Kim Ok Kiun, then seized the palace. The post-office was burned on the same night, and with it the new stamps which had been used only once.

The Japanese minister and other foreign officials were now invited to the palace, which invitation was accepted only by the former, who brought one hundred and forty soldiers. Here the Japanese and the progressive party were attacked by three thousand Koreans and between two and three thousand Chinese. As the event grew more than doubtful, the king was allowed to go over to the other party, in the belief that if he was released the fighting would cease. Although this was not the case, the little party of Japanese fired a mine, dispersed a large number of the allies, and then forming a square, with the progressive leaders and the Japanese minister in the center, fought their way through the enemy, and the hostile streets, first to the Japanese legation, and after that to the river, with the loss of only five men. After much difficulty in obtaining boats, they crossed the river, made their way to Chemulpo, and from there escaped safely to Japan.

The picturesque palace, with the remarkably beautifulpark which surrounds it, was not occupied again by the queen. Her majesty averred that it was impossible to sleep there at night for the mournful wailing of the voices of her murdered friends, which she heard continually crying, “Why was I killed, why was I killed?” So now the wind whistles and moans through the deserted rooms, grass and weeds push their way through the crevices of the beautiful marble steps, green mould grows thick on the once lovely lotus pond, and the charming little summer pavilions are falling to ruins, while snakes and lizards slide about the stone seats. The wide reaches of lawn are overgrown with long grass, and tigers and leopards are said to make their lairs in the noble woods and grottoes. The gateways fashioned in various charming designs to form frames as it were for the beautiful vistas beyond, are choked with a wild overgrowth of vines and weeds. Fancy has not to look far, or listen long, to read in all this deserted and neglected beauty the story of that one night of blood and horror, and to hear in every chilled whisper of shuddering foliage the word “haunted.”

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