CHAPTER XIV

Itineration Incidents—Kaiwha—Christian Evidences—Buying Christian Books instead of an Office—Seed Sowing—Moxa’s Boy in the Well—Kugungers Again—Pung Chung—Pyeng Yang—The Needs of the Women.

Another long trip into the interior was taken the following year, some newly arrived missionaries from Canada who wished to study methods and people accompanying us. Just before this Mr. Underwood had revisited the river villages where there were Christians under his oversight, and found as usual a steady growth everywhere, not that there are no drawbacks, none who have backslidden or proved insincere, but that such instances are marvelously rare, and that the encouragements far exceed the discouragements, that the little groups are steadily growing in numbers, in enlightenment and the home life is vastly higher in tone. At Haing Ju a commodious new chapel had been built, a fact which the people had kept as a surprise for the missionary. As usual he found new groups of believers which had sprung into life since his previous visit.

The beginning of one of these at Kimpo, as related by Mr. Shin, was very interesting. Mr. Shin said that one night as he lay asleep he thought he saw the Moxa come up to him, with the long walking-stick in his hand which he uses on his country trips. Prodding the sleeper vigorously with it, he said, “Come, come, why don’t you go to work; get up and go over there (pointing across the riverto Kimpo) and pass on the Word.” Shin woke up, but fell asleep again, and again the Moxa came back and even more urgently bade him get up, and go and carry the gospel to Kimpo. Again he awoke, and the third time fell asleep, and dreamed as before. He knew no one at Kimpo and had no reason to think there was any more hopeful opening there than elsewhere, but the dream impressed him so strongly, that he felt he must go. When he reached there, he found one or two families whose interest had become awakened through some books, and who were longing for some one to come and teach them more. One man, once a burly and notorious prize-fighter, is now the leader among the Christians in that vicinity, and one of the shining lights among the river villages, and this same Kimpo is one of the most promising centers of work.

The training class, the instruction of which was part of Mr. Underwood’s business in the interior that fall, was to be held in Hai Ju. The class was taught five hours each day, and women who would come were met and taught by me in my room. One hour after the men’s class in the afternoon was given to street preaching, our Canadian friends, Dr. Grierson and Mr. McRae, helping immensely with music and singing and in the distribution of tracts. A general meeting for prayer and Bible study was held in the class room every evening.

When the class had adjourned, we proceeded to make the usual circuit of the part of the province under our care. As on the river, so here along the sea and in the mountains, the numbers of new centers of gospel growth were amazing. “It springeth up he knoweth not how.” In one place a couple of old men, travelling along rather weary, sat down by the roadside and as they rested sang a hymn. A farmer whose house was near, overhearing the strange words of the song, came and questioned, and erelong became a believer, with his family. From this household the blessing overflowed for neighbors and friends. In another case a young bride made a strong stand for Christ in the heathen family into which she had married, until she had won over the entire family to the same faith, and they again had brought others. These are only a couple of examples that were paralleled in many communities.

Some of the answers of these poor half-taught people when catechised were given in a previous chapter, another that of an old woman I thought significant and touching. When asked where Jesus was, she said promptly, “He’s right here with me all the time.” “Yes, but where else is he?” Confused and troubled that she could not satisfy the Moxa, she said, “I’m only a poor ignorant old woman, I don’t know where else he is, but Iknowhe is right here in my house all the time.” The devotion of the people to us, because through our hands had come the bread of life, was to me exceedingly affecting, and everywhere the relation existing between the people and their Moxas is a peculiarly close and tender one. When one of the missionaries was sick for some time, the women in the country villages through a large section held united daily prayer for her for several weeks. This without her knowledge, quite spontaneously, and without prearrangement among the different localities.

The following year I was providentially hindered from making the trip to the country with my husband, but in 1900, with Dr. Whiting, Mr. Underwood and our little son, I was again able to go to Whang Hai province. We started in February, and as there was now a little steamer which had begun to ply between Hai Ju and Chemulpo, we decided to profit by it, as this would be both easier and cheaper than the old way.Kaiwha(as they call progress) had “twessoed” (become) considerably since ourlast trip. A railroad had been laid between Seoul and Chemulpo, with trains traveling about fifteen miles an hour. The steamers referred to are a marvel also as specimens of saidkaiwha. About the size of an ordinary despatch boat, or small tug, they are not too commodious.

CANDY BOY

There are two cabins, neither of which is high enough for tall people to stand erect in, one of which, with hardly room for three or four to occupy it with comfort, is packed with the unhappy second-class passengers. The other is somewhat larger, about twelve feet long by six wide. This room contains a table and six chairs, and in it are often stowed from ten to twenty first-class passengers. Here one meets “the world.” Korean officials, Korean, Chinese or Japanese merchants, French Romanist priests, strolling acrobats, singers, dancing girls, and Protestant missionaries. All except the latter smoke until the air will slice nicely, and many of them indulge in native or foreign liquor till their society is almost past endurance.

The boat follows the river northward past the historical island of Kangwha, with its picturesque walls and gates, till it flows into the sea, an arm of which our course crosses at this point to reach the shore on which lies the little village which is the port for the city of Hai Ju. On the day in question, when we profited for the first by all these contrivances ofkaiwha, the ice was still in the river, ours being only the second trip made since it began to break. Nothing could be seen on all sides but great blocks of ice, much larger than our little craft, and all in a conspiracy apparently to prevent our advance, banging and pushing us, now on one side and now on the other. With much panting and puffing, occasionally sustaining a pretty severe shock but quickly gaining advantage lost and shoving aside her clumsy opponents, our boat steadily forced her passage onward and gradually gained the clearwaters of the sea. This trip lasted only sixteen hours, while it would have taken three days overland.

We landed at half past eight on the edge of a long stretch of mud flats, covered with slimy boulders and stones, all of which now lay under a foot of half frozen snow, which hid the rocks and made the going very precarious in the darkness. There was only one warm room to be had and no food, while the “warm room” was only a little less cold than out of doors. Thoroughly chilled, tired and hungry, and somewhat dispirited, as hungry folks are apt to be, we all retired to the floor, to rest finely, and waken in a better mind next morning, none the worse for our seafaring.

At Hai Ju the believers gathered around us with the warmest welcome. They were all mourning the loss of a beloved leader who had died a short time before. We of course held meetings with them during the two days, which were all we could spare at that time, saw and talked with all who would come, trying to strengthen and comfort the believers, and promising if possible to remain longer with them on our return. One poor young wife whose husband had given up Christianity and gone back to the his old life, and whose heathen mother-in-law was persecuting her cruelly, excited our pity. Pale, emaciated and tearful, she came begging our advice and help.

From Hai Ju we proceeded to Chang Yun Eub, where the training class of leaders was to be held this year, and where Dr. Whiting and I had planned to hold a somewhat similar class for women. On the way a stranger, seeing my husband was an American, asked if he knew “a certain ’Un Moxa’ (Preacher Underwood) who sometimes came down that way and taught people to be good and kind to each other,” showing that he had been reading from the book of native Christian practice. All along this road,where only a few years before there was absolute ignorance of the gospel, we found evidences of the dawning light. Here and there in a wayside inn we found a Christian book, or a family half timidly beginning to believe. Everywhere they had heard of “the doctrine,” and heard well of it.

Everywhere there was a pleasant welcome for us and a ready ear for our story. At Chang Yun Eub, quite a number of Christian women had gathered to meet and welcome us. One or two days after reaching there I took a ten-mile ride in a bitter wind to visit a sick woman, which resulted in severe influenza and bronchitis, which, though I managed to fight off for five days, at length confined me to my room and bed for three long weeks. Many of the women had come from five to twenty miles on foot to study with us, so it was bitterly disappointing, but Dr. Whiting did her own part and mine, too, nobly. Nearly all the villages in that district were represented by the local leaders and pastors at Mr. Underwood’s class. They at this time organized a missionary society, which they themselves originated and planned in part, before our arrival. They perfected their scheme with Mr. Underwood’s advice.

Taking a map of the district, they arranged to work in couples, and to each man was assigned four heathen villages, each to be visited once a month, each man pledging himself to do this work every Sunday during the year. Two superintendents were appointed to oversee the general work, advise and help these missionaries, and report to Mr. Underwood. All were to go at their own expense.

By the time the class was over I was able to be carried along the road in my chair, and only one who has been shut in for three weeks, in a tiny room not eight feet high, without a pane of glass in it, quite alone most of the time,can realize how glad I was to be released into the fresh, sweet air and sunshine. Before leaving Chang Yun we bade a long farewell to one of the Christian women, who with a smile and the sweet words, “It’s all grace, it’s all love,” fell gently asleep in Jesus. Dr. Whiting, in accordance with previous plans, did not go with us further, but returned to Seoul. After leaving Chang Yun, our first stop was made at the village of On Chang, where we met quite a little handful of believers. One of these, a woman who was the first convert in that place, had been much troubled and burdened with a sense of guilt. At length she heard that in Chang Yun there were people that could tell her of One who could forgive sins. She went forthwith and learned of Jesus and found peace and pardon, and came back to spread the good tidings and “pass on the word” to her neighbors.

One of these women was a peddler, a class who have to make some sacrifices to keep the Sabbath. Nearly all their business is done at the little fairs or market days, which take place every five days at one or another of the hamlets in a certain circuit. Quite often one of these days falls on a Sunday, and so a whole five days’ profit is lost. But this makes no difference, the day is cheerfully kept; another who kept an inn as cheerfully decided to sell no more liquor, her chief source of profit.

Our next stopping place was at Cho Chun, and as soon as we neared the vicinity, we were met by men, women and children, who had walked out to meet us and conduct us to the home of the leader, in this case the richest and chief man of the whole neighborhood. People professing Christianity gathered here from several small villages, were examined and many baptized. It seemed too hard that we had only so short a time to stay in these places where we were needed so much. Most of the womenactually wept when we were obliged to say farewell, and the men and boys followed us miles, sometimes to the next stage in our journey. They are touchingly grateful for the little we do for them, while we thank God for allowing us to learn from them, their simple childlike faith and entire dependence on him.

Mrs. Ha, the wife of the leader, was the only one in the village who could read, and she taught the other women beautifully. Calm, strong, intelligent, she seemed to me a rare type of a Korean woman, and one who was destined to be very useful if she were only better instructed. She was well acquainted with the Gospels and Acts, the only Scriptures till quite lately in their hands, and with nearly all the hymns. But her opportunities for study and instruction were also very few.

After leaving Cho Chun nearly twelve miles distant was our next destination, a little country town of about two thousand people, which we reached after a few hours’ travel. Here we lodged in a neat and comfortable little building consisting of two rooms, with a lean-to kitchen, which the natives had built for us near to the church, half at their own expense. The steps by which we ascended to our rooms were the family ancestral worship stones, which the Christians had once greatly treasured, but for which they had no further use. The women flocked in to greet me, and next day I had the larger room, sixteen by twenty-four feet, crowded with heathen women who came to see the foreign woman and child, but were willing to hear about Christ. Gifts of candies, fruits and other food poured in as usual.

Many were examined for baptism, and gave most satisfactory evidence of conversion, but among them all one deaf old woman interested me most. She was very deaf and stupid. It seemed almost impossible for even the Koreanleader to make her hear or understand the questions. She was most anxious to be baptized, but how to learn whether she knew enough of the gospel, we were at a loss to discover.

At last a question seemed to reach her, “Where are you going when you die?” Her face brightened and the answer came, “I’m going to Jesus.” Mark, not heaven, but Jesus. This is the keynote that is always struck, Jesus, their stay now, and hope hereafter, their wisdom, righteousness, and sanctification.

The first news of the gospel was brought here to Eul Yul by a man of high family, considerable wealth and official connections, who went to Seoul with the intention of buying an office. He heard about Christ, however, while there, and instead of an office, bought a donkey load of books, which he took back to Eul Yul, and there distributed among his neighbors. About the same time a certain magistrate, just appointed, and going down there to his office, who was a friend of my husband’s, invited him to visit him at Eul Yul when in the country. Mr. Underwood thanked him, but replied, “You know if I go it will be only with the one purpose of preaching.” “Certainly, come and preach,” was the answer.

So Mr. Underwood promised he would do so if his friend, the magistrate, would see that a large and convenient official building was placed at his disposal for services while there. This was willingly promised at once, so the class was appointed to be held there that year, and with the rally of Christian leaders, and the earnest preparatory work of the man who had preferred Christ to an office (of which Mr. U. had not previously been informed), Christianity in Eul Yul began most auspiciously. Up to the present time, however, he who had been so earnest in preaching the gospel, and so generous in supportingit, had never been baptized. The difficulty was that he had two wives, with neither of whom could he bring himself to part. These concubines have a strong hold, and justly so, on the men who had made them part of their family, and on whom they are dependent. All a man’s magnanimity, generosity and tenderness are appealed to on behalf of these women, who, unlike the dancing girls, have in the eyes of the community a certain share of respectability, and are usually not bad or unprincipled, but have been taught to look with toleration and complaisance on such a life, the common custom.

However, now, at last, he decided while we were there to take the step and put away the second wife, providing her with a home and fields enough to give her a good income. So he and his wife and baby, and his grown son with his wife and little one, in company with a number of others, were baptized. The people of Eul Yul had built their own church, as well as one-half of the guest house, for their missionary. When we left, every believer who could walk came to bid us farewell, “Pyeng anikasio” (Go in peace). We had a last prayer and praise service, and parted with mutual good wishes and regrets, a long train of men and boys as usual streaming out along the road, with and behind us.

Our next station was Pak Chun, six miles away (the distances used to be twenty and thirty miles, now six, eight or twelve), but before we reached there we must stop and meet a little band of Christians at a farm where seed had been dropped by passing believers and where a whole family had been converted. Here we met a young bride from another hamlet not far distant, who with her husband had lately become a believer. At Pak Chun we were received with the usual hearty welcome. Here I found Mrs. Kim of Sorai like a ministering angel goingher rounds of self-appointed, unpaid ministration of the Word, teaching the gospel to these poor women, not one of whom could read. A good many from neighboring villages were examined here, and we held a baptismal and communion service just before leaving. The church was as yet unfinished and extremely damp and cold, as well as uncomfortably crowded, so I sent our little son out of doors to play until we should finish. But scarcely had the meeting well begun when word came that “the Moxa’s child had fallen in the well.” Mr. Underwood rushed to the rescue, giving out a long hymn as he started, to keep the crowd occupied. However, by the time we reached the scene he had emerged from his cold bath and been taken to our room.

The ox-cart with all our packs was standing at the door, just about to start for the next place. It was the work of a few moments to pull down the whole load, open our trunks, and get out dry garments, only too thankful that it had not already trundled several miles on. I found a dripping, shivering little animal awaiting me as I rushed into our quarters, but no harm was done, he was soon quite dry and warm, his wet apparel dangling from the ox-cart acting as an excellent road sprinkler. Just before leaving I saw a child quite naked, covered with smallpox pustules in full bloom, standing near our door. I asked one of the natives if there was much of that disease in the village at present. “In every house,” was the concise reply. “Why there is none in the house we are in,” said I, with confidence. “Oh, no, they took the child out the day you came in order to give you the room,” was the reassuring answer. We had eaten and slept in that infected little room, our blankets all spread out there, our trunks opened, everything we had exposed. We had even used their cooking utensils and spoons and bowls before ourown packs had arrived. For ourselves we had been often exposed, and believed ourselves perfectly immune. Mr. Underwood had nursed a case of the most malignant type, and I had been in contact with it among my patients, but our child! So we sent a swift messenger with a despatch to the nearest telegraph station, twenty-four hours away, to Dr. Wells, in Pyeng Yang. He at once put a tube of virus into the hands of a speedy runner, who arrived with it a week later.

We found the country full of smallpox, measles, and whooping cough, and added to our smallpox experience, an exactly similar one with measles. The record of one of these little villages is much like another. At Pung Chun, a place with a magistracy, we found the crowds almost unbearable, especially as the magistrate was away and his substitute unwilling to help us. No foreign woman or child had ever yet been there, and we were fairly besieged by people who after any fashion, lawful or otherwise, were determined to see the curiosities. Too tired that night to do more than hold a brief meeting with the few Christians who lived there, we barred, barricaded and curtained ourselves in. How often under such circumstances I have been able to sympathize as never before with our blessed Lord, who was forced to withdraw to the mountains and desert places for a little rest and quiet from the importunity of the eager selfish crowds, who thronged him and followed him even there in thousands. We read “They had no leisure as much as to eat,” and that he forbade the people he healed to spread the news abroad. Quite uselessly. What weariness, what longing he must at times have felt for a few hours of quiet and peace, only the hunted can realize, yet how patient, gentle and compassionate he was!

The next day I talked to a room packed full of heathen women, those who could not force an entrance crowdingaround the doors and windows, as many as could get a view or hearing. They listened with interest and attention for more than an hour, asking intelligent questions occasionally, and treating me with perfect respect.

In the afternoon I had another and smaller company of those whom Mrs. Kim of Sorai had culled from among those she had been visiting and teaching as the most hopeful cases. With these we talked, sang and prayed, trying as usual to make the most of the few hours we could be with them. A few people were examined and two or three baptized of those who had been believing for some time.

From Pung Chun we passed through a lovely valley and over a beautiful mountain pass to a village nestled right up in the mountains. Here the interest had extended to two villages of hardy mountaineers, all of which had been started by an old woman from Sorai. She cannot read, but she continually preaches Christ to every one whom she meets. Her son is the local leader, and his family are all Christians.

Thus far Mr. Underwood had during our circuit examined one hundred and fifty people and baptized seventy-five. About half of the other seventy-five were received as catechumens. At Pung Chun we were greatly interested to learn that the Koreans have a custom of sprinkling blood on the door posts, and above the door of the home to drive away evil spirits. When I told my class at Chang Yun how the Jews did this before leaving Egypt, and what it meant, they looked at each other and exclaimed with surprise, “Why, that is our custom, too.” But at Pung Chun we found that it had only recently been done at the very inn where we stopped, and were told that it was quite a common custom in that part of the country. The natives also have a cold rice festival, much like the feast of unleavened bread.

The scenery from Chil Pong to Won Tong is very beautiful. The road winds through the mountains, accompanied by a charming little river most of the way. There is a wonderful restfulness in the quiet of these mountains, where no rattle of the world intrudes to break the divine silences, or to interrupt the voices of nature, which only emphasize the peacefulness that envelops one. One feels God near and communion with him easy. The heart lifts itself with no effort in scenes like these.

From Won Tong we passed to Sorai or Song Chun, to which reference has already been often made in these pages. We were lodged in the school room next the church, a sunny, pleasant apartment. This Sorai school was already famed through all the country round, and Christians were sending their boys from other villages to obtain the advantage of Christian teaching. Next morning early a company of little girls and boys were waiting outside my door, dressed in new clean garments of the brightest possible colors (starched, dyed, and pounded to a miraculous crispness, gloss and glory of tint, chiefly scarlet, green and yellow), especially for this occasion. We had a singing class with them every morning after that, and a Bible story was told and explained, too. The women’s class was held immediately after the children’s, but many women came to the children’s class, and most of the children came to that held for the women. In the afternoon the women came again for another Bible lesson, and in the evening men, women and children met for united prayer, praise and Bible study with Mr. Underwood.

I was again taken very sick here at Sorai, but recovered when that result seemed most unlikely, through God’s answer to the prayers of our native Christians, one of whom, Mrs. Kim, spent the whole night in prayer for me.Such love and devotion makes the tie between pastor and people very strong.

As soon as I was able to travel we hurried back to Hai Ju and Seoul, for word had come, bringing the sad news of the death of Mr. Gifford in one of the country villages about sixty miles from Seoul. He had gone alone with a Korean helper, and after a brief illness had passed away suddenly at night, probably scarcely aware that he was seriously ill. He was loved by all the Koreans, who could not fail to recognize his spirituality and consecration. Mrs. Gifford was then in an extremely weak state, having never recovered her strength after a violent attack of Asiatic dysentery the preceding summer. She had just begun to improve a little, and we to hope that at last we might look for her return to perfect health.

A native messenger, all unannounced, rushed into her presence and told her that her husband was dead. She never saw his face again, or had the sad comfort of a message, or one of these little souvenirs which women prize and console their aching hearts withal. She wilted like a lily, rudely snapped from the stem. When the first shock was over and her mind became a little composed, several days later, after friends had left her for a peaceful soothing night’s rest, a Korean servant entered the room and told her that her husband had been neglected and slighted in his last illness, and had died alone quite uncared for. She never rallied from this blow. Sweet, calm, uncomplaining, she grew weaker and weaker, and only one month after her beloved husband passed away her gentle spirit followed. They had been extremely congenial and well suited, and it seemed a gracious providence that they were so soon reunited.

Mrs. Gifford was a woman greatly beloved by every one, and one of the most effective and consecrated womenworkers on the field, with a modest unassuming quiet spirit, but with untiring devotion and self-effacement. She worked here ten years for Christ. The Koreans, whom she had loved so well and served so faithfully, bore her to her grave and laid her beside her husband. We all felt that the loss to the work was beyond expression, and from a human view point irreparable.

In the following fall we visited Pyeng Yang for the first time since our wedding journey in 1889. The annual meeting of all the mission (now grown quite extensive) for the discussion and settlement of plans for work for the coming year was to be held there; so we all risked our lives on a crazy little steamer, which, however, contrary to probabilities, landed us safely not far from our destination.

Great were the changes we beheld. Missionaries in comfortable pleasant homes, a large church (paid for with native money), newly built, able to accommodate nearly two thousand people, and great gatherings of simple earnest farmer folk, which it did one’s soul good to see and hear. To us, who on our last visit looked on that great waste of heathenism, and discussed the advisability, or otherwise, of starting a sub-station there, it was almost overwhelming. To us, one of whom at least had come to the country in the very beginning of the history of our Protestant missions, and to whom in the light of the records of work in other fields the task looked so stupendous, so overwhelming, to find here in the far interior the wonderful evidences of the power and goodness of God filled our hearts with joy and awe. How could we ever shrink or doubt, or fear again, or do aught but ascribe “glory and honor, dominion and power, to him who sits upon the throne and to the lamb for ever.”

I regret that I have not personally seen more of the work of God in northern Whang Hai and in Pyeng Yangprovinces, so that I might give interesting incidents which would put my readers more in touch with the Christians there, but I copy from the reports of Pyeng Yang and Syen Chyun stations for the year 1901 and 1902 the following:

“In the whole territory covered by this station, Pyeng Yang, there are 3,100 baptized adults, 3,737 catechumens enrolled, and over 12,000 who attend more or less regularly and in various ways come in touch with the gospel. The total number baptized this year is 642, and the number of catechumens received 1,363. There are in the Pyeng Yang city church 1,153 members and catechumens, with a congregation of from 1,200 to 1,600 on the Sabbath.

“There are besides this eight country circuits, including Ool Yul circuit, in the Seoul station work, and 184 out-stations, with 5,684 members and catechumens.

“There are 40 primary schools, one academy and 42 teachers—37 men and 5 women—with an attendance of 740 pupils. Thirteen schools were organized this year. All the country schools but one are self-supporting, and that nearly so. There were 9,094 persons in attendance at the hospital, also a medical class consisting of 4 members.

“Apart from those held in Pyeng Yang, 107 special Bible classes were held, bringing about 2,300 under instruction; 20 were taught by the missionaries, 87 by native helpers and leaders. All these classes were carried on at the expense of the Koreans.

“There are now 136 chapels, 21 having been built this year, at a cost of 5,367 nyang contributed by the Christians unaided.

“The total native contributions for all purposes (excluding the hospital) amount to 43,949 nyang, about 5,860 yen (or $2,930 United States gold).

“The working force to look after and carry on this workconsists of 7 ordained missionaries (one on furlough and one newly arrived on the field), one medical missionary, 4 single lady missionaries and 7 wives of missionaries.

“There are also 21 unordained native preachers or helpers, 7 Bible women and 15 colporters and other assistants doing evangelistic work.”

From the general report of the Syen Chyun station for 1901-2 I also quote, “We now have organized groups in 15 of the 21 counties of the province, and believers in at least 4 more of the other 6. The groups that have been organized by a missionary’s visit, and organized with a separate roll and church officers, number 44, but there are at least 8 other places where Christians gather for worship every Sabbath, and where the helpers visit regularly.

“The number of persons baptized during the year, July to July, was 267, which is the largest ingathering we have yet been permitted to see in one year. All of these 267, with the possible exception of 3 or 4 old persons, had been catechumens on probation for at least a year. The harvest would have been much larger had it been possible to visit the western Eui Ju Circuit this spring, where a very large number of candidates are waiting for baptism.

“The number of infants baptized was 15. The number of catechumens received amounted to 696. All of these had been believers at least for two months, and in most cases for a very much longer time, and were received only after a very careful examination, under which, at the very lowest estimate, 150 candidates were deferred. During the same time 5 church members were suspended and 5 excommunicated, and 16 catechumens dropped.

“July first, therefore, there were on the church rolls 677 church members, 25 baptized infants and 1,340 catechumens, or a total of 2,042 enrolled Christians, who with the unenrolled believers make a total of 3,429 adherents in all.But of the above church members, 11 are under suspension, and 8 more, unless they show signs of repentance, will be disciplined when the missionary next visits their groups. These 19 amount to 2.8 per cent of the church membership. Amongst the 1,340 catechumens there are 109, or 8.1 per cent, whose names are retained on the books, although at present they have lost their interest in Christianity. Experience has taught us that it is well to retain such for at least three years, unless they have been guilty of some grave sin whereby the church is brought into disrepute, as many of them coming under some new influences are often won back to a Christian life.”

The above quotations show how the church is growing, and, especially the Pyeng Yang report, how well they are giving both in labor and money for the support of the gospel, and for its advancement among their heathen neighbors. I will also insert a paragraph taken from the above report for the same year, on the subject of self-support.

“Just as soon as the native church produces ordained pastors she must support them. For this the church is being prepared. In this station but one helper is entirely supported with foreign money, and four or five receive a part only; all the rest of our unordained preachers or helpers are entirely supported by the native church. With a single exception, all of the thirty-five country schools are entirely supported by the native groups where such schools are carried on. It has long since been the rule for the native Christians to provide their own house of worship, the only exception being a few cases where a little help seemed wise. Every possible means is being employed to develop the same idea in the academy, thus putting the highest possible value upon education, creating the sentiment that it is an acquirement for which thestudent may well labor or pay. It is being appreciated, too, so far as it has been acquired at a respectable cost. Even the hospital is on a fair way to become self-supporting to the extent of paying for medicines and treatment.

ELDER SAW OF SORAI AND HIS FAMILY.PAGE 230

“In every way the Korean Christians have shown themselves not only able, even during a famine year, but also willing to bear their share along the line of support. They have not only borne the running expenses of the various groups, supported their own country primary schools, contributed to the academy, paid the salaries of the unordained preachers, sent representatives to the training classes at Pyeng Yang, and delegates to the council at Seoul, but have given a considerable amount to help the poor and contributed liberally to the Committee of Missions.”

One more extract from these reports, that of Miss Chase of Syen Chyun, I feel must not be omitted. It ought to touch the heart of every Christian woman who reads it. It is as follows:

“There are 199 baptized and 588 catechumen women, and as a conservative estimate 1,200 Christian women, in north Pyeng An province. I have been able to go to the merest fraction of this number. Those whom I have met are much that we desire to have them be, and much not to be desired, but as I think of them individually and collectively, every other thought is eclipsed by the deep impressions they have made upon me by their yearning to be taught. The need for another for this field speaks for itself. We request the mission to consider the urgent need. In some places there has been manifest murmuring among the people. They say they have waited long for a visit from their pastor, they have waited long to receive the examination for the catechumenate, they have waited long for a woman to teach them. Every time that women comein from distant places they beseech me to promise to visit their groups the next time I leave Syen Chyun.

“Many a woman who has attended my classes has said with tear-stained face, ‘As for believing, I believe. I am clinging to Christ for salvation. I have no desire for any trust but in him, but I am so ignorant. I know so little about my Bible. I know not how to read its thoughts with my dark mind. I know so little about the great Jesus doctrine. How can God be pleased to call me his child, when I know not how to glorify him?’ They say the men stand out far on the other side of the curtain4and teach great and wonderful things which they cannot comprehend, but a woman can sit in their midst and listen to all of their unlearned questions, and they are not ashamed to let a patient woman see how little they know! It is not easy to hear these heart-felt burdens and be helpless to meet their need in any adequate manner.”

4Churches are divided by a curtain down the center, with men on one side and women on the other. The preacher can see both sides.

Another Itineration—Christians in Eul Yul—A Ride in an Ox-Cart—Keeping the Cow in the Kitchen—Ox-Carts and Mountain Roads—The Island of White Wing—A Midnight Meeting—Thanksgiving Day in Sorai—The Circular Orders—New Testament Finished—All in the Day’s Work—The Korean Noble—Meetings of the Nobility.

We left Pyeng Yang about the 26th of September, 1900, by one of the toy Japanese steamers, and reached Chinampo, a half-Japanese, half-Korean port, at night. We were accompanied by three young ladies, one of whom, a new arrival, wished to study methods; one who needed the bracing effect of out-of-door country life in the north for a few weeks; and one who had previously arranged with me to carry on a women’s training class in Eul Yul that fall. We were obliged to spend the night in Chinampo, but arriving late, we did not know where to find an inn, till we met an old friend, Rev. Mr. Smart, of the Church of England mission, who kindly found us a Japanese hotel. Here, after telling them our nationality, our ages, our condition, past lives and future intentions, and having been forced in spite of all protests to remove our shoes, they condescended to receive us as guests, at an outrageous price. We must not use our own camp beds, but the mats which had served no one knew whom before us; nor might we have water in our rooms, but must perform all our ablutions in the public hall on the lower floor.

Next morning we gladly bade our too particular hosts farewell, and crossed the river in a wretched old junk,which looked as if it were on the brink of dissolution. Fortunately, the weather was fine and mild, and the river calm, else I am sure we should all have been dipped, for even I had never yet beheld so dilapidated a craft. We were all day on the river, only able to land after dark, thanks partly to the nature of our vessel and partly to the tides, for which we were forced to wait before landing.

The following night was hot, the inns nothing more or less than ovens, and morning found us all in an unusually wilted condition, and to add to the general misery, the young ladies of our party had made important additions to their luggage, which threw us all four into the utmost consternation. That evening we reached Eul Yul, where both men’s and women’s classes were to be held. As usual the people crowded in to meet us as soon as we arrived. Although harvesting was on and it was one of the busiest times of the year, quite a number of women came to study with us. They were so bright and receptive, it was a pleasure to teach them. I had some very interesting visits with the women in their own homes, and was edified to see the bright and practical way in which the Christian who accompanied us talked with some of the unbelievers. One woman was hesitating, fearing she was too ignorant or too wicked to receive salvation, to which our native friend said, “Why, if you are hungry, and a bowl of rice is set before you, you eat right then, and just so if you want salvation, you have only to take and eat.”

The listener’s eyes filled with tears, it seemed too good. All the time we were talking, another Christian woman sat with bowed head asking God’s blessing on the word. In the examination of applicants for baptism, I was much interested to see how carefully our native leaders questioned them. “You say you sin daily, but ask God to forgive, and so have a happy and calm mind. Is it then no matter thatyou sin?” Again, to a woman who said her past sins were forgiven, and her present sins were confessed every day, he said, “Well, then, what sin have you committed to-day?” She could or would only speak in a general way, and after various questions, mentioned nothing in particular. “But,” said Kim, “is that honoring God, to go and confess you have sinned, and ask him to forgive you know not what?” On Sunday twenty people were baptized. During the communion service all eyes were streaming, and some sobbed like children at the thought of what the Lord had suffered for them.

In the afternoon our native elder, Mr. Saw, gave us a delightful illustrated Bible lesson on the Christian armor, with illustrations drawn and colored by himself, and with most appropriate references. The native Christian was first represented in ordinary dress all unarmed, and in succeeding pictures, one after another of the needed articles, helmet, shield, sandals, breastplate and sword were added. These illustrations were unique to the last degree and extremely well drawn. In the evening an experience meeting was held, when one after another told what the Lord had done for them. Some had been the slaves of drink, and had fallen again and again after repeated attempts to resist, in their own strength, but now for years had been free men in Christ, and were looked upon as miracles of grace by their friends and neighbors.

One man told something of his home life. He had been a dissolute gambling fellow, whose reputation was well known through all the surrounding counties. When he went home at night, after days of absence and dissipation, his angry wife would scold and reproach him, and he in return would beat and maltreat the poor little woman. “It was all misery and discomfort, but now, all peace and love.” A neighbor who came in often remarked on thisexceptionally happy home life, wishing hopelessly for something like it in her lot. She could not believe the happy wife when she told her it had once been so different, and that all this came through Jesus.

Then Mrs. Kim called in her husband and bade him tell if this was true. “Why,” said he, “I’ll do more, I’ll give my bond for it, bring paper and pen and I’ll write a bond to any amount you choose to name, that if Jesus comes into your home there’ll be peace there.” “Why,” said he, “people say if the Lord were only here now to do some of his miracles every one would believe, but I tell you the Lord is doing greater miracles now than he ever did on earth when he takes a vile wretch like me and changes his heart.” One man had been afflicted with an apparently incurable disease for over forty years, and now the Lord had healed him; and one had been such a liar that no one believed his honest statements, and yet now was implicitly trusted by every one.

It was decided before we left Eul Yul that the native Christians of that district should employ two helpers or evangelists to work among the ignorant believers of that vicinity, and that twelve Bible or training classes should be held in the different districts in that province during the year, six to be in charge of Mr. Saw, and six taught by Mr. Kim Yun Oh, our most intelligent leader. From Eul Yul we went to Pung Chun, while Mr. Underwood visited several smaller places more difficult of access. Miss Chase and I divided the meetings, and were most thoughtfully and attentively heard, the little room being packed whenever we announced a service.

Our quarters were not of the best, as the only place assigned us for preparing our food was a little corner of the cow’s stable. We have heard of people who “keep the pig in the kitchen,” but to keep the cow there was certainlya degree worse than our flightiest fancy, and we at length rebelled, with the result that a more sanitary place was found for our culinary performances.

After Mr. Underwood arrived, eleven people were baptized here. The first public service for all was held in a hired room in the largest inn in the place. The chief man, after listening to all that had been said, arose and spoke to the crowd as follows: “We all know that what we have heard is true, there is nothing left for us to say but that from to-day on we will believe.” Some of the men who attended this meeting remained outside the door at first, unwilling to be seen in such company, as they were respectable gentlemen. After listening awhile they condescended to step inside, and before the service was over they had seated themselves in the front row, and admitted it was very good.

Aside from our kitchen arrangements, and a little anxiety lest the cow should conclude to visit us in our bedroom at night, and the persistent cock crowing at my head from two in the morning, we had a lovely time at Pung Chun.

Again at one of the little villages up in the mountains some of our chair coolies deserted us, and there was nothing left for it but for our two young ladies to ride in an ox-cart. They were a little doubtful about this new mode of procedure, but the Koreans assured us it was quite safe, and as our little son had traveled miles that way, we encouraged them to try it, especially as it was a last resort. So with many misgivings they perched themselves on top of the loads, and the ox, a great spirited animal, was brought up. When Miss Chase asked if he was to be trusted, they assured her with the statement that he could fight any ox in the country. It was supposed a good deal of harnessing would follow, but when a noose wasmerely slipped over a hook, and with no warning the steed literally galloped off, we were all somewhat startled, and the young ladies gave themselves up, with such a team running away.

The ox-cart is extremely primitive, its two wheels have only the clumsiest attempt at heavy wooden tires. The soft mud roads are full of deep ruts, so that under the most favorable circumstances the bumping and jolting are unspeakable. When therefore their mettlesome animal was at length of a mind to pause a little in his mad career, they lost no time in the order of their descent from that vehicle, and started off at a brisk pace, evidently decided to walk all the way back to Seoul rather than jeopardize their lives in such a contrivance and behind such a creature again. However, the way was long, and before night they changed their minds and resigned themselves to the ox-cart, when his bovine spirits were a little subdued by his journey, and he was somewhat less light and frisky than in the morning.

We arrived at Chil Pong, one of the villages perched up in the mountains, early in the evening, but not so our loads, which the country people manage in some miraculous way to drag up the steep mountain roads on the ox-carts.

It turned out that the ox-cart in use that day was a very weak one and gave out entirely, breaking down half way up the mountain. Another had to be brought from a distance, and long delays ensued, where the average speed is a snail’s pace, in spite of the experience with the lively animal the day before. Fortunately by this time we had obtained more coolies for the young ladies, so that our party were all together; the little son having become such a walker that he seldom patronized either chair or cart, and often walked twenty miles a day. One of the helpers,Mr. Shin, said, as he came up with the loads, supperless and quite tired out, at twelve o’clock that night, that had it not been that he was determined the pastor’s wife must not go without her bed and pillows, the cart would not have arrived at all. So tenderly do the people care for the needs of their teachers.

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