The SphinxThe Sphinx.Page 377.
The Sphinx.Page 377.
The Sphinx.
Page 377.
The entrance to the pyramid is a little way up in the centre of one side. The steps here are sunk in sideways, so as to form a slanting platform to a small aperture. Over this there are two enormous blocks of marble laid pent-ways, to form an arch in the pyramid, and to support its weight on the roof of the passage. You slip and slide down the steep passage, feeling you are going down into the bowels of the earth, "the entrails of the Great Pyramid," and a last long slide brings you into the chamber. Here you see the material of which the Pyramids are constructed, a rock called nummulite limestone, often containing fossil remains. In one place it is rough and glistening, in another smooth and polished, as if worn away—by what means is not known. In the roof there is a recess, where the sarcophagus is supposed to have stood, but none was found when it was opened for the first time, as was supposed. In reality the tomb had been opened and sacked, probably not such an untold number of years after the death of Cheops.
Then we walked ankle-deep in sand a quarter of a mile away to the south-east of the Great Pyramid, to where the Sphinx stands. Her whereabouts is only decided by a mass of rock that looks at first sight (please excuse the familiar simile) like the Toadstool Rock at Tunbridge Wells, for it is only a mass of rock supported on a column. As we approach, however, and finally stand under the Sphinx, we begin to understand the fascination she exercises.
We see the Egyptian helmet with the long flaps, under which are the protruding ears, so very distinct. Then we notice the eyes, the forehead, the broken, flattened nose, and the thick lips. It is in the lips lies the expression of the Sphinx, the disdainful, haughty look, or anon the smile that parts them. The remainder of the face follows the mood expressed on the lips. But at all times the Sphinx is unsympathetic, cold as the stone she is carved in. With face turned towards the rising waters of the Nile, she changes not with the ruddy glow of sunset, nor the blush of morning, reflected from its waters. She is human, but relentless. The animal body of the Sphinx isagainburied in the sand—for once, a century ago, excavation revealed it. Between the front paws it was then found there was an altar, where sacrifices must have been offered under the very head ofthe Sphinx herself, and a sanctuary with some tablets was discovered under the breast.
Stanley said, "Its situation and significance are worthy of the Sphinx; if it was the giant representative of royalty, then it fitly guards the greatest of royal sepulchres, and with its half-human and half-animal form is the best welcome and the best farewell to the history and religion of Egypt."
Connected as it was supposed to be with her worship, the Temple of the Sphinx is peculiarly appropriate to her in its massidity. The enormous blocks of granite and alabaster, laid lengthways across other blocks, on which we look down, gives to it the appearance of the crypt of a cathedral.
The two remaining pyramids have no special interest, nor yet the two or three others, very small ones by comparison, lying about the greater. The latter are evidences of a very short reign, or perhaps were only intended to serve as a monument of sufficient height, to ensure their never being sunk or overwhelmed with the sand typhoon of the desert.
On Friday afternoon, the Sabbath of the Moslems, we went to see the religious service held by the sect of Howling Dervishes.
Passing through a quiet court where the musicians were taking their places, through an outer room, we came into a whitewashed mosque, whose unornamented dome, as we shall presently see, has a splendid echo. A goat-skin mat is arranged round in a circle, on which the twenty or thirty worshippers enter one by one and kneel. The sheik squats in the kibla or niche, and we sit on chairs ranged round the wall.
The priest or sheik intones some prayers, to which they all respond, the echo lingering and repeating the sonorous tones of the response, till it forms an accompaniment to the following prayer.
Then they begin repeating the same word or phrase, Allah, Allah, Allah, with a gentle inclination of the body. This action gradually increases with the rise of the voices, which, if they unconsciously flag for a minute, are vigorously taken up and maintained again. At a given sign from the sheik they cease. All stand up.
Then the same recommences with increased exercise, and an occasional howl from some more devout worshipper,while soft wild music is heard outside. Gradually you are fascinated by this circle of men, all bowing at the same moment, all intoning on one note; and now it is a groaning noise they make, and it grows and grows, till the raising of the sheik's hands stops it once more.
Then they take off their clothes, their turbans, and undo their long hair, and the real work of worship commences. The sheik touches a man on the shoulder, and singles him out to stand in the centre. The swaying recommences, but with the violence where they left off as the first stage, and the dervish in the centre leads, swaying, bending, all in time. Music strikes up, the tom-tom of large tambourines—a deafening, discordant pandemonium, to which they are moving in time, urged on by the increase and swell of the music faster, ever increasing, louder the music, deafening its sound. A circle of wild magnetic creatures tossing their locks of hair, unconscious, mechanical, holding a mesmerized look on the dervish, who with closed eyes performs with ecstasy the exercise of his salvation. Another steps into the circle, and begins, with arms outstretched, slowly to turn and twirl round and round and round—never moving from the exact spot of ground where he first took his stand—gently at first, increasing slowly, becoming fast, faster—a whirl now. All is utter confusion. Chaos has come. The scene swims before your eyes; the wild fanatical little body of surging, swaying dervishes is becoming indistinct, when a sudden raising of the finger brings it all to a close in an instant; only one last resounding thud of the tom-tom, one prolonged howl lingers on the echo. The spinning dervish sinks exhausted to the ground.
Saturday, March 7th.—Lady Baring took me to the Vicereine's "at home" on Saturday afternoon at the Atchin Palace. We entered by a private way and back staircase, and were shown through a succession of reception-rooms to a small drawing-room or boudoir, where her Highness sat.
She is still young and has pretty features—all say she is most pleasant and good-natured; but she has grown, and is growing, enormously stout. The Vicereine was arrayed in a Parisian toilette of black, and, save for the representative feature of a bunch of red roses and diamond ornaments, looked completely European. The slaves, too, were dressed in English materials of old gold, blue, and pink silks, with giltwaistbands and bunches of roses, and not as one had looked to see them, in some graceful Oriental costume. We all sat round in a circle for the prescribed time, and cigarettes were offered and coffee brought, that nasty, bitter Arabian coffee, in tiny cups with Turkish stands.
The same afternoon we called on M. Camille Barrère at the French Agency, the most beautiful house in Cairo, just purchased by the French Government. There are some very unique ceilings and mosaic dados in it, and a great quantity of the pretty mushrebeeyah.
We dined in the evening with Nubar Pasha, the Prime Minister, and Madame Nubar; and after dinner went to a Turkish piece at the theatre. Quite half the galleries were curtained for the ladies of the harem, behind which, we could see, they were crowded; and when everybody left the house between the acts, it was from thence came the clouds of smoke that filled the theatre. Nubar Pasha is a very charming and courteous man.
Sunday, March 8th.—The Premier very kindly lent us his dahabeeyah to go up the Nile.
One always has a very mistaken idea about the beauty of the Nile. It is an exceedingly ugly river, with shoals and sandbanks lying about in its course. Going up only a little way from Cairo, there is a fine view of the Mokattam Range, the citadel, with the mosque of Mahomet Ali, whose slender minars tower as high again above the hills. Warehouses and manufactories, followed by mud villages, render the banks utterly hideous and uninteresting. The nuggars, with their sharp-angled sails and enormously tall, slanting masts, are alone pretty and picturesque. We returned to Cairo as the sun was setting.
Wednesday, March 11th.—Got up early, packed, drove to the station, took our seats in the train for Suez, to embark on board the P. and O.Tasmaniafor Malta, Gibraltar, and Spain. Three minutes before the train started, bag and baggage we bundled out again. I saw in the paper there were fresh earthquakes in Spain, and particularly at Malaga, where we must have landed from Gibraltar.
We spent the day in Cairo, and left again in the evening by the mail to Alexandria, to goviâBrindisi to Cannes.
We drove through the streets of Alexandria by gaslight, seeing the remains of the bombardment on all sides. Whata national reproach are the ruins and the houses partially riddled with cannon-shot, the neat piles of broken brick and stone by the road. They are only just beginning to rebuild Alexandria after the lapse of two years.
We got on board the P. and O. mail steamerAssamat eleven o'clock, and weighed anchor early next morning.
Thursday.—Sea flat, calm.
Friday.—The shores of Crete and Candia in view, the bold outline of her mountains covered with snow.
Saturday.—Within sight of beautiful Zanté, an island of the Ionian Group.
A very rough night on board, half a gale blowing, and the next morning we are at Brindisi. Dear little Brindisi (though few will agree in this term of endearment), desolate and dreary as she is, greeting us with a snowstorm as she did, looked homelike and sweet to us, if only because she was so near home—a distance of no account after what we have done. The trees about the harbour were budding and breaking into blossom, notwithstanding the grey north-easter blowing.
All day we were travelling along the leg of Italy, by the storm swept ocean breaking in angry breakers along the shores, across the fertile plains of Tuscany—Bologna reached at one in the morning. Left the next day, to arrive at Genoa the same evening. Then a day spent in crawling along the beautiful Riviera, its orange-groves, olive-yards, and flowers smiling us a sunshiny greeting. Cannes reached at length that evening. Hearty welcomes. Home-like feelings. Renewing acquaintance with our little daughter Vera.
A fortnight's pleasant rest after our long journey, a gathering up of the thread of events, domestic and otherwise, since we left England in July last, and London reached on the 1st of April. Home at last.
We had been absent not quite nine months, had travelled rather more than 40,000 miles, visited America and Canada, Australia and New Zealand, Netherlands India, the Malay Peninsula, India, and Egypt, gained useful information without end, and laid up stores of knowledge that will never cease to be precious till our lives' end; had many and many a pleasant recollection left of little adventures, anecdotes, and incidents such as happen in common to all travellers, and made not a few interesting acquaintances.
Let me finally take this opportunity of expressing to all the many kind friends, particularly those in the colonies, our gratitude for the hearty welcome and cheery hospitality extended to us by all.
Should any one wish for nine months, or, better still, a year of perfect enjoyment, of rest and relief from the weary round of duty and so-called pleasure, which is the life and lot of so many of us—I say, Go a tour,notround the world, not mere globe-trotting, but a complete tour of study through the glorious British empire, such as we have tried to do, and failed only in that the Cape was, for circumstances already mentioned, impossible for us.
In Greater Britain, all who are countrymen or women, all coming from the mother country, are sure of the same kindness and warm reception we experienced; all are sure of great enjoyment, all are sure of a wealth of bright, pleasant memories for the future. Such has been our experience. To all I would say, "Go and do thou likewise."
Written under circumstances of some difficulty, chiefly on board ship, in cabins close and dark, tossed and swung about, this journal has been put together. Poor little journal as it is, the first production of an unskilful pen, I am but too fully conscious of its defects.
It is up to date now, the last entry has been made, and, with a sigh, it has been confided to the hands of the printer and publisher. May they and the public be merciful to it!
THE END.
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Claude Lorrain.[9]Correggio, by M. E. Heaton, 2s.6d.Della Robbia and Cellini, 2s.6d.Albrecht Dürer, by R. F. Heath.Figure Painters of Holland.Fra Angelico, Masaccio, and Botticelli.Fra Bartolommeo, Albertinelli, and Andrea del Sarto.Gainsborough and Constable.Ghiberti and Donatello, 2s.6d.Giotto, by Harry Quilter.Hans Holbein, by Joseph Cundall.Hogarth, by Austin Dobson.Landseer, by F. G. Stevens.Lawrence and Romney, by Lord Ronald Gower, 2s.6d.
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British Fisheries Directory, 1883-84.Small 8vo, 2s.6d.
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—— See also "Rose Library."
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Chairman's Handbook(The). ByR. F. D. Palgrave, Clerk of the Table of the House of Commons. 5th Edition, 2s.
ChangedCross (The), and other Religious Poems. 16mo, 2s.6d.
Charities of London.See Low's.
Chattock(R. S.).Practical Notes on Etching.Sec. Ed., 8vo, 7s.6d.
Chess.SeeBird (H. E.).
Children's Praises. Hymns for Sunday-Schools and Services.Compiled byLouisa H. H. Tristram. 4d.
Choice Editions of Choice Books.2s.6d.each. Illustrated byC. W. Cope, R.A.,T. Creswick, R.A.,E. Duncan,Birket Foster,J. C. Horsley, A.R.A.,G. Hicks,R. Redgrave,R.A., C. Stonehouse,F. Tayler,G. Thomas,H. J. Townshend,E. H. Wehnert,Harrison Weir, &c.Bloomfield's Farmer's Boy.Campbell's Pleasures of Hope.Coleridge's Ancient Mariner.Goldsmith's Deserted Village.Goldsmith's Vicar of Wakefield.Gray's Elegy in a Churchyard.Keat's Eve of St. Agnes.Milton's L'Allegro.Poetry of Nature. Harrison Weir.Rogers' (Sam.) Pleasures of Memory.Shakespeare's Songs and Sonnets.Tennyson's May Queen.Elizabethan Poets.Wordsworth's Pastoral Poems.
Choice Editions of Choice Books.2s.6d.each. Illustrated byC. W. Cope, R.A.,T. Creswick, R.A.,E. Duncan,Birket Foster,J. C. Horsley, A.R.A.,G. Hicks,R. Redgrave,R.A., C. Stonehouse,F. Tayler,G. Thomas,H. J. Townshend,E. H. Wehnert,Harrison Weir, &c.
Bloomfield's Farmer's Boy.Campbell's Pleasures of Hope.Coleridge's Ancient Mariner.Goldsmith's Deserted Village.Goldsmith's Vicar of Wakefield.Gray's Elegy in a Churchyard.Keat's Eve of St. Agnes.Milton's L'Allegro.Poetry of Nature. Harrison Weir.Rogers' (Sam.) Pleasures of Memory.Shakespeare's Songs and Sonnets.Tennyson's May Queen.Elizabethan Poets.Wordsworth's Pastoral Poems.
"Such works are a glorious beatification for a poet."—Athenæum.
Christ in Song.ByPhilip Schaff. New Ed., gilt edges, 6s.
Chromo-Lithography.See "Audsley."
Collingwood(Harry).Under the Meteor Flag.The Log of a Midshipman. Illustrated, small post 8vo, gilt, 6s.; plainer, 5s.
——The Voyage of the "Aurora."Illustrated, small post 8vo, gilt, 6s.; plainer, 5s.
Colvile(H. E.).Accursed Land: Water Way of Edom.10s.6d.
Composers.See "Great Musicians."
Confessions of a Frivolous Girl.Cr. 8vo, 6s.Paper boards, 1s.
Cook(Dutton).Book of the Play.New Edition. 1 vol., 3s.6d.
——On the Stage: Studies of Theatrical History and theActor's Art. 2 vols., 8vo, cloth, 24s.
Costume.SeeSmith(J. Moyr).
Cowen(Jos., M.P.).Life and Speeches.ByMajor Jones. 8vo, 14s.
Curtis(C. B.).Velazquez and Murillo.With Etchings, &c. Royal 8vo, 31s.6d.; large paper, 63s.
Custer(E. B.).Boots and Saddles. Life in Dakota with General Custer.Crown 8vo, 8s.6d.
Cut-cliffe(H. C.).Trout Fishing in Rapid Streams.Cr. 8vo, 3s.6d.
D'ANVERS(N.).An Elementary History of Art.Crown 8vo, 10s.6d.
——Elementary History of Music.Crown 8vo, 2s.6d.
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Davis(C. T.).Manufacture of Bricks, Tiles, Terra-Cotta, &c.Illustrated. 8vo, 25s.
——Manufacture of Leather.With many Illustrations. 52s.6d.
Dawidowsky(F.).Glue, Gelatine, Isinglass, Cements, &c.8vo, 12s.6d.
Day of My Life (A); or, Every-Day Experiences at Eton.By anEton Boy. 16mo, cloth extra, 2s.6d.
Day's Collacon: an Encyclopædia of Prose Quotations.Imperial 8vo, cloth, 31s.6d.
Decoration.Vols. II. to IX. New Series, folio, 7s.6d.each.
Dogs in Disease: their Management and Treatment.ByAshmont. Crown 8vo, 7s.6d.
Donnelly(Ignatius).Atlantis; or, the Antediluvian World.7th Edition, crown 8vo, 12s.6d.
——Ragnarok: The Age of Fire and Gravel.Illustrated. Crown 8vo, 12s.6d.
Doré(Gustave)Life and Reminiscences.ByBlanche Roosevelt. With numerous Illustrations from the Artist's previously unpublished Drawings. Medium 8vo, 24s.
Dougall(James Dalziel)Shooting: its Appliances, Practice, and Purpose.New Edition, revised with additions. Crown 8vo, 7s.6d.
"The book is admirable in every way.... We wish it every success."—Globe."A very complete treatise.... Likely to take high rank as an authority on shooting."—Daily News.
"The book is admirable in every way.... We wish it every success."—Globe.
"A very complete treatise.... Likely to take high rank as an authority on shooting."—Daily News.
Drama.SeeCook(Dutton).
Dyeing.SeeBird(F. J.).
EDUCATIONAL Workspublished in Great Britain. A Classified Catalogue. Second Edition, 8vo, cloth extra, 5s.
Egypt.See "De Leon," "Foreign Countries."
Eight Months on the Gran Ciacco of the Argentine Republic.8vo, 12s.6d.
Electricity.SeeGordon.
Elliot(Adm. Sir G.)Future Naval Battles, and how to Fight them.Numerous Illustrations. Royal 8vo, 14s.
Emerson(R. W.)Life.ByG. W. Cooke. Crown 8vo, 8s.6d.
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English Etchings.A Periodical published Monthly.
English Philosophers.Edited byE. B. Ivan Müller, M.A.
A series intended to give a concise view of the works and lives of English thinkers. Crown 8vo volumes of 180 or 200 pp., price 3s. 6d. each.
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Francis Bacon, by Thomas Fowler.Hamilton, by W. H. S. Monck.Hartley and James Mill, by G. S. Bower.[10]John Stuart Mill, by Miss Helen Taylor.Shaftesbury and Hutcheson, by Professor Fowler.Adam Smith, by J. A. Farrer.
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Etchings(Modern)of Celebrated Paintings.4to, 31s.6d.
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Fennell(Greville).Book of the Roach.New Edition, 12mo, 2s.
Ferns.SeeHeath.
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Bound together.Doctor Johns.Dream Life.Out-of-Town Places.Reveries of a Bachelor.Seven Stories, Basement and Attic.Wet Days at Edgewood.
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Work.A Story of Experience. ByL. M. Alcott. 3s.6d.; 2 vols. 1s.each.
Stowe (Mrs. H. B.)The Pearl of Orr's Island.
——The Minister's Wooing.
——We and our Neighbours.2s.; cloth gilt, 6s.
——My Wife and I.2s.; cloth gilt, 6s.
Hans Brinker; or, the Silver Skates.By Mrs.Dodge.
My Study Windows.ByJ. R. Lowell.
The Guardian Angel.ByOliver Wendell Holmes.
My Summer in a Garden.ByC. D. Warner.
Dred.By Mrs.Beecher Stowe. 2s.; cloth gilt, 3s.6d.
Farm Ballads.ByWill Carleton.
Farm Festivals.ByWill Carleton.
Farm Legends.ByWill Carleton.
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The Undiscovered Country.ByW. D. Howells. 3s.6d.and 1s.
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