Diagram of the layout of the pins
The Pinsare spotted as shown in the margin, the centres 12 inches apart, and those of the back row 3 inches from the edge of the pit. The regulation pins are 15 inches high, 2¼ diam. at the base, 15 inches circumference 4½ from the bottom, and 5¼ at the neck.The Ballsmust not exceed 27 inches in circumference in any direction, but smaller balls may be used.
Frames.Each player rolls ten frames or innings, in each of which he is supposed to have three balls, although as a matter of fact he rolls two only. In match games, two alleys are used, and the players roll one inning on each alternately.
A Strikeis made when all ten pins are knocked down with the first ball of the innings, and it is scored on the blackboard with a cross, the number of pins made with the three balls being filled in afterward.A Spareis made when all ten pins are knocked down with the two balls of one inning, and it is marked with a diagonal stroke. If the player fails to get either a strike or a spare, it is aBreak, marked with a horizontal line, under which is written the actual number of pins down. After each ball is rolled any pins that have fallen on the alley are calleddeadwood, and must be removed before the second ball is rolled.
Counting.If a player makes a strike in one inning, all that he makes on the next two balls rolled, whether in one inning or not, counts also on the strike, so as to give him the total score on three balls for the frame. Three successive strikes would give him 30 points on the first frame, with a ball still to roll to complete the second frame, and two balls to roll to complete the third. If he got two strikes in succession, and 5 pins on the first ball of the third frame, 4 on the second ball, the first frame would beworth 25, the second frame 19, and the break on the third frame 9; making his total score 53 for the three frames.
If the player makes a spare in one inning, all the pins knocked down by the first ball of the next inning count also on the spare. Suppose a spare to be followed by a strike, the frame in which the spare was made would be worth 20. If he made 5 pins only, the spare would be worth 15.
Although the player is supposed to have three balls in each inning, and is allowed to count all he makes on three balls if he gets a strike or a spare, he is not allowed to roll three balls on a break. It was formerly the custom to let him roll the third ball on the chance of getting a break of 10. This was afterward changed to giving him 10 pins, without rolling for them, if he got 9 on two balls; but the present rule is to call it a break if he does not get a strike or a spare in two balls, and not to waste time in rolling the third ball.
Scoring.Instead of putting down the amount made in each inning, the total of the frame is added to the total of the previous score, so that the last figure put down shows the total score up to and including that frame. The following illustration shows the total score of a player for ten innings. The top line of figures gives the number of the frame. The second shows the number of pins knocked down by each ball rolled, and the third line shows how the scores would be actually put down on the blackboard, the strike, spare, and break marks being placed above the figures. With the exception of the second line of figures, which is put in for purposes of illustration only, this might be a copy of an actual score.
As the player made a spare on the last frame, he had another ball to roll, on what was practically a new frame, with which he made 9 pins.
Averages.If a team is playing a match, and one of the players is unavoidably absent, it is the custom to give him credit for his average, according to the records of his previous games during the tournament or the season. This is considered better than appointing a substitute to play for him.
There are a great many varieties of Ten Pins, the most interesting of which will be found described in the following Laws of the game, which are reprinted here by the kind permission of the Brunswick-Balke-Collender Co., from their 1908 edition of the “Bowler’s Guide.”
RULES AND REGULATIONS GOVERNING THE GAME OF AMERICAN TEN PINS.
Revised at Louisville, Ky., March 19-21, 1906. In effect Sept. 1, 1906.
The alleys upon which the game shall be played shall not be less than 41 nor more than 42 inches in width. The length from the centre of No. 1 pin spot to the foul line shall be 60 feet. Back of the foul line there shall be a clear run of not less than 15 feet. The pin spots shall be clearly and distinctly described on or imbedded in the alleys and shall be so placed 12 inches apart from centre to centre. They shall be 2¼ inches in diameter. The pin spots numbered 7, 8, 9 and 10 shall be placed 3 inches from the pit edge of the alleys, measuring from the edge to the centre of such pin spots.
The pins shall be spotted on the pin spots placed upon the alleys according to the following diagram, and the pins and spots shall be known by the numbers as follows:
Diagram of the layout of the pins
The pins shall be of the following design and measurements: 15 inches in height, 2¼ inches in diameter at their base, 15 inches in circumference at a point 4½ inches from their base, 11⅝ inches in circumference at a point 7¼ inches from their base, 5¼ inches in circumference at the neck, a point 10 inches from the base; 8 inches in circumference at the head, a point 13½ inches from the base. The taper from point to point shall be gradual, so that all lines shall have a graceful curve.
The balls shall not in any case exceed 27 inches in circumference nor exceed 16 pounds in weight. Any sized ball of less circumference or weight may be used.
Two alleys immediately adjoining each other shall be used in all games. The contesting teams shall successively and in regular order roll one frame on one alley, and for the next frame alternate and use the other alley, so alternating each frame until the game is completed.
In delivering the ball the player must not permit any part of his foot, while any portion thereof is in contact with the alleys, to rest or extend on, over or beyond the foul line, nor shall any part of his person be permitted to come in contact with any part of the alleys beyond the foul line, at any time before the delivered ball shall have reached the pins. A ball delivered contrary to the provisions of this rule shall be a foul ball, and shall be so declared by the umpire immediately such ball so becomes foul.
No count shall be made on a foul ball, and any pins which are knocked down or displaced thereby shall be at once respotted. A foul ball shall count as a ball rolled against the player.
Pins which are knocked down or displaced by a ball which leaves the alley before reaching the pins, or from a ball rebounding from the rear cushions, do not count, and they shall be immediately respotted.
Every ball delivered, unless it be declared a dead ball by the umpire, shall be counted against the player.
Pins which are knocked down by another pin rebounding in the play from the side partition or rear cushion are counted as pins down.
Pins which are knocked down or displaced from any cause except by a fairly delivered ball shall in all cases be respotted.
Should a player by mistake roll on the wrong alley, or out of his turn, or be interfered with in his play by another bowler or spectator, or should any of the pins at which he is playing be displaced or knocked down in any manner before his delivered ball reaches the pins, or should his ball come in contact with any foreign obstacle on the alleys, then the ball so delivered by him shall be immediately declared a dead ball by the umpire, and such ball shall not count, and shall be immediately re-rolled by the player after the cause for declaring such ball dead has been removed.
Pins which are knocked down by a fair ball, and which remain lying on the alley or in the gutters, are termed dead wood, and shall be removed before the next ball is rolled.
Should a standing pin fall by removing dead wood, such pin or pins shall be at once respotted.
Should a pin be broken or otherwise badly damaged during the game, it shall be at once replaced by another as nearly uniform with the set in use as possible. The umpire shall in all such cases be the sole judge in the matter of replacing such pin or pins.
Each player shall roll two balls in each frame except when he shall make a strike, or when a second strike or spare is made inthe tenth frame, when the player shall complete that frame by rolling a third ball. In such cases the frame shall be completed on the alley on which the first strike or spare is made.
A strike is made when the player bowls down the ten pins with his first ball delivered in any frame and is credited and designated in the score by an X in the upper right hand corner of the frame, and the count in such frame is left open until the player shall have rolled his next two balls, when all pins made, counting ten for a strike, shall be credited therein.
A spare is made when the player bowls down all the pins with his second ball in any frame, and is credited and designated with / in the upper right hand corner of the frame in which it is made. The count in such frame is left open until such player shall roll his next ball in the succeeding frame, when the number of pins rolled down thereby shall be added to the ten represented by his spare, and the total shall be credited therein.
A break is made in all cases where the player does not secure either a strike or a spare in a frame, and in such cases only the number of pins knocked down are credited in the frame where the break is made.
If at the end of the tenth frame the team scores shall be a tie, another frame shall be immediately bowled, and play is so continued until at the close of even frames one of the teams shall have a greater number of pins than their opponents, which shall conclude the game.
The game is played with a head pin and the right and left corner pins as shown in the following diagram:
Diagram of the layout of the pins
Balls not exceeding six inches must be bowled, and they must be rolled down the alley (not cast or thrown). The rules of American Ten Pins except in St. Louis, where there is a special association with local rules, generally govern this game also, with the exception of three balls instead of two to the frame, but strikes and spares count three instead of ten, and each pin counts one as in Ten Pins. If the bowler knocks down three pins with the ball which is first bowled, in any frame in the game of Cocked Hat, it isa strike, and counts three, and is marked on the blackboard the same as in Ten Pins. What pins the bowler knocks down in the second frame with his first two balls must be reckoned as in Ten Pins, i.e., one for each pin bowled down, which pin or pins must be added to the strike and placed to the credit of the player in the inning where the strike was scored (the strike being computed as three); such strike must be added to pins knocked down with the two succeeding spare balls; thus, should the bowler score a strike, and should he in the next new frame knock down but one pin with his two spare balls, the strike and pin scored must be computed as 4—the strike counting 3 and the pin 1.
Poodles, or balls rolled down the gutter, are fair balls, and any pin or pins which they may get must be counted and placed to the credit of the bowler; dead wood is removed from the alley, and any pins knocked down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the bowler. The maximum number which can be bowled is 90.
Diagram of the layout of the pins
The pins are spotted as above, the centre pin being the feather.
Ten innings constitute a game, and three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) must be used in each inning.
All the pins except the feather have to be bowled down or the inning goes for naught.
If the feather is left standing alone, the innings count one.
There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the bowler.
The maximum is 10.
THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF TEN PINS.
Four or six innings constitute a battle or game, except in the case of a tie, when another inning is played. In case that inning should result in a tie also, still another inning is played—in fact, until the scores are unequal. In any inning where a tie occurs the score stands over until the next inning, when each point is counted double. If the two innings result in a tie, the score is tripled. Should the total score result in a tie, sufficient innings are played to make the grand score unequal.
The team having the largest score in the previous inning must bowl the first ball, so that the weaker party will have the last ball.
Three balls of regulation size (27 inches in circumference) or under are allotted to each player in each inning.
Each pin bowled down counts 1, including the king pin.
If all the pins except the king pin are bowled down, it counts 12.
The pins are set up as soon as the nine pins are knocked down, or the king pin is the only one left standing.
The alleys are changed alternately.
The dead wood is removed after each ball is rolled.
In case of uneven teams the Dummy or Blind is filled by any substitute the captain may pick out to bowl. He can select any one of his men he chooses, without regard to rotation, or he himself can bowl, but no man can take the place of the blind twice until every member of the team has acted as the substitute.
Poodles count as balls rolled. Any pin or pins knocked down by such balls are set up again in their former positions.
A rebounding ball does not count, and any pin or pins knocked down by it are set up, as in the case of a poodle ball.
When a ball has left the hand and touched the alley, it goes as a rolled ball.
THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF AMERICAN TEN PINS.
Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled in each inning.
The player must knock down a single pin, which counts 1; then with two remaining balls he endeavors to leave one pin standing, which counts 1. Failure to do either, the inning goes for nothing.
No penalties are attached. Dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the player.
Ten innings constitute a game.
The maximum is 20.
Diagram of the layout of the pins
The pins are set up as above.
Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allowed in each inning.
If the four back pins are bowled down and the head pin is left standing, the score is 2. If all the pins are bowled down, the score is 1.
There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through the dead wood remaining on the alleys cannot be placed to the credit of the player.
Ten innings constitute a game.
The maximum is 20.
Diagram of the layout of the pins
The pins are spotted as above.
Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allotted to each inning.
Each pin counts as spotted, and only one pin can be made at a time; if more than one pin is made with one ball, it is termed a break, and the player loses that inning and scores nothing.
There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the players.
ALSO KNOWN AS AMERICAN NINE PINS.
Diagram of the layout of the pins
The pins are set as in the diagram.
Ten innings constitute a game.
Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled.
One pin of the frame must be left standing, or the inning goes for nothing.
There are no penalties. The dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through the dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the player.
The maximum is 10.
Diagram of the layout of the pins
The pins are set as shown in the diagram.
Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are bowled in each inning.
Should a left-handed bowler be bowling, the second quarter pin can be set up on the left quarter spot.
Strikes and spares count five each.
No penalties are attached. Dead wood must be removed. Any pins knocked down through dead wood remaining on the alley cannot be placed to the credit of the player.
Ten innings constitute a game.
The maximum is 150.
THE PINS ARE SET UP THE SAME AS FOR THE GAME OF AMERICAN TEN PINS.
Three balls (not exceeding 6 inches in size) are allowed in each inning.
Ten frames constitute a game. The object of the game is to bowl down an exact number of pins from 1 to 10, but not necessarily in routine order. The player who, in ten innings, scores the least number of winning innings is the loser. For instance: A bowls down 2, 5, 7, 8 and 10; B bowls down 1, 6, 8 and 9. Here B loses, as A has one more inning to his credit than B.
Note.—As the larger number of pins are easy to obtain, the superior skill lies in picking out the small numbers. For this reason the pony ball is used, and the small numbers are the points of attack from the start. When the player has bowled down a certain number of pins corresponding with any score he has made, and his remaining ball or balls will be of no avail, an (X) is placed under that number, indicating that the inning goes for naught, as he has already made that score.
Only one score is allowed to each inning. Players alternate in the use of alleys.
Balls bounding from the cushions go for naught.
THE PINS ARE SPOTTED THE SAME AS THE AMERICAN GAME OF TEN PINS.
A regulation Duck Pin shall be 9 inches high, 1½ inches in diameter at the top, 3½ inches in diameter at the body of the pin, and 1⅜ inches in diameter at the base; shall taper gradually from the bottom to the largest part of the body, and shall be as near uniform in weight as possible.
No ball exceeding 4½ inches in diameter can be used in games.
Each player to roll three balls to each frame, and each player to roll two frames at a time.
A line shall be drawn ten feet beyond the regular foul line, and any ball delivered beyond the first named line shall be declared foul.
All other rules of the American Bowling Congress govern.
The Count—Two balls shall be allowed for frame.
Strikes—A strike is credited when a player bowls over the ten pins with the delivered ball.
Spares—A spare is credited whenever a player clears the alley with the first and second ball.
Breaks—A break is charged to a player at all times when neither a strike nor spare is made.
The Ball—The ball shall not exceed 5½ inches in diameter in any direction, but smaller balls may be used.
Don’t try to learn in a day.
Don’t use too much speed at first.
Don’t grip the ball too tight.
Don’t loft the ball.
Don’t play the side ball until you have mastered the centre delivery.
Don’t swing the ball more than once before delivering it.
Don’t start with a jump; walk one and run two steps.
Don’t deliver the ball with the right foot in front.
Don’t step on or over the foul line.
Don’t think you can change the course of the ball after it has left your hand.
Don’t expect a “strike” every time you hit the head pin.
Don’t blame the pin boys if you get a split. They will spot any pin you call their attention to.
Don’t throw away a “spare” because you think you were entitled to a “strike.”
Don’t use any unnecessary motions.
Don’t exert yourself. Take it easy. A slow accurate ball is better than a swift wild one.
Don’t put your whole thumb in the finger hole. One joint is enough.
Don’t use a large finger hole. Big holes make a ball lop-sided.
Don’t roll a ball down the alley when there is a ball in the pit.
Don’t use a wide grip if you have a small hand, or two narrow for a big hand.
Don’t use chalk on your shoes. It not only cracks the leather, but leaves the runway in bad condition for whoever follows you.
Don’t think your wrist is gone if it hurts after bowling a few games. Change your grip and throw the strain somewhere else.
Don’t bend your back when delivering the ball. With your feet far apart and knees bent you can start the ball with little or no sound.
Don’t be superstitious—13 is a better start than 12.
Don’t think it necessary to be a Sandow. Many lightweights bowl well.
Don’t get discouraged, you can learn. Any able-bodied person, with ordinary nerve and a good eye, can become quite expert with little practice.
Don’t let an alley owner use pins that are worn out.
Don’t think you can sandpaper a ball without injuring it. It takes an expert mechanic to true up a lignum-vitæ ball.
Don’t lay a lignum-vitæ ball away DRY, if you don’t want it to crack.
Very few games have their own code of laws, and only one or two of these have the stamp of any recognised authority. In minor games, questions are continually arising which could be easily settled if the players were familiar with a few general principles which are common to the laws of all games, and which might be considered as the basis of a general code of card laws. The most important of these principles are as follows:—
Players.It is generally taken for granted that those first in the room have the preference, but if more than the necessary number assemble, the selection must be made by cutting. A second cut will then be required to decide the partnerships, if any, and the positions at the table, the latter being important only in games in which the deal, or some given position at the table, is an advantage or the reverse. The usual method of cutting is to spread the cards face downward on the table, each player drawing one. In some games the cards are thrown round by one of the players.
Shuffling, Cutting and Dealing.In all games in which the cards are shuffled at all, each player has the right to shuffle, the dealer last. In English speaking countries the cards are always cut by the player on the dealer’s right, who is called the “pone.” In cutting to the dealer in any game there must be as many cards left in each packet as will form a trick; or, if the game is not one of tricks, as many cards as there will be in any player’s hand; four, for instance, at Whist, and five at Poker. The cards are always distributed to each player in rotation from left to right, and each must receive the same number of cards in the same round. In games in which the cards are dealt by two and threes, for instance, it is illegal to give one player two and another three in the same round.
Misdeals.In all games in which the deal is an advantage, a misdeal loses the deal; but in all games in which the deal is a disadvantage, or some position is more advantageous than that of the dealer, such as the “age” at Poker, a misdeal does not lose the deal. The only exception to this rule is in Bridge, in which there are no misdeals, and Cribbage, which has a fixed penalty.
Bidding.In all games in which there is any bidding for the privilege of playing or of making the trump, or any betting on the value of the hands, the privilege must be extended to each player in turn, beginning on the dealer’s left. Any bid or any bet once made can neither be taken back nor amended. If any bid is made out of turn in any partnership game, it must be assumed that undue information is conveyed, and the player in error, or his partner, must lose his bid. In round games there is no penalty.
Exposed Cards.No player can exact a penalty for his own error, so that if an adversary of the dealer exposes one of his own cards he cannot claim a misdeal, but the dealer’s side may. There should be no penalty for a player’s having exposed a card unless he can derive some benefit from the exposure, such as from his partner’s having seen it. If there is no partner, there should be no penalty, because the player injures himself only. All exposed cards must be left on the table, and may be called upon by the adversaries to be led or played.
The same principles apply toLeading out of Turn. If the player in error has no partner, or his partner is a dummy, and the lead is taken back, no harm is done except to the player himself, and there should be no penalty. If the adversaries fail to observe that the lead was irregular, they are equally at fault with the player, who must be assumed to have erred unintentionally. In games in which a lead out of turn conveys information to a partner, the usual penalty is to call a suit.
If a player is led into error through a previous error on the part of an adversary, he should not suffer any penalty for it, but may take back his card. This is particularly true of following suit to erroneous leads, or playing after a revoke which is afterward amended.
Irregularities in the Hands.In all games in which the player need not follow suit unless he chooses, such as Seven-up, there should be no penalty if the player has not his full complement of cards, because he cannot possibly gain anything by playing with a short hand. But in all such games as Whist, where the absence of a card in plain suits might enable a player to trump, a penalty must be enforced for playing with less than the proper number of cards. In all such games as Poker, it is only to the player’s own disadvantage to play with too few cards, provided he is not allowed to call four cards a flush or a straight, and there should be no objection to his playing with a short hand. Many good players “squeeze” their cards, and if they find a good pair in the first two, they put up the ante without looking further. It is manifestly unfair to bar them out of the pool because the dealer has given them only four cards, which gives them no possible advantage, but rather the reverse. This is in accordance with common sense, and is the law in Cribbage and Piquet.
Discrimination.No person should be allowed any advantage over another which is not compensated for in some way. In Seven-up, for instance, the non-dealer counts game if it is a tie; an advantage which is offset by the dealer’s counting Jack if he turns it. In Auction Pitch the dealer has no such advantage, because no trump is turned, and therefore the non-dealer cannot count ties for game. It is a common error among Cassino players to hold that a player cannot build on his own build, but that his adversary may do so. A player holds two deuces, an Eight and a Ten, and builds a Six to an Eight. It is claimed that an adversary may increase this build to ten, but the original builder may not. This is manifestly unfair, because there is no compensating advantage to the player that is denied the privilege to justify its being allowed to his adversary.
Benefiting by Errors.No player should be allowed to win a game by committing a breach of the laws. If a person revokes, for instance, there is a certain penalty, but in addition to the penalty it is always stipulated that the revoking player cannot win the game that hand.
Double Penalties.No person can be subjected to two penalties for one offence. If a player leads out of turn, and a suit is called, the card played in error cannot be also claimed as exposed and liable to be called. If a player revokes, and his adversary wins ten tricks, the revoke penalty adds three tricks to the ten already won; but these thirteen tricks will not entitle the player to score any points for a slam, because that would be exacting a double penalty; the tricks for the revoke, and the points for the slam.
Intentional Error.In all games it must be assumed that the player’s intentions are honest, and that any errors that arise are committed through inadvertence. Some of our law-makers have attempted so to adjust their codes as to provide against the manœuvres of the blackleg. This is simply impossible. Laws are made for gentlemen, and when it is obvious that a player does not belong to that class the remedy is not to appeal to the laws of the game for protection, but to decline to play with him.
Etiquette.It should be quite unnecessary to legislate against acts which annoy or do injustice to individuals, but there should be some provision in the laws of every game which will secure to each individual equal rights with others in the enjoyment of the game. Some games are especially selfish; Boston, for instance, in which the four players originally forming the table may monopolise the game for the entire evening, without offering newcomers any chance to cut in. All such games should be limited to a certain number of tournées, at the conclusion of which fresh candidates should be allowed to cut into the table.
G. stands for German; F. for French.
There are several methods of playing Drive Whist; the most popular being to fill as many tables as possible with the players that present themselves, regardless of any order further than that partners should sit opposite each other. The players may select their own partners, or they may be determined by lot, according to the decision of the hostess.
Straight whist is played; the cards being shuffled and cut afresh for every hand. Each deal is a game in itself.
Drawing for Partners.If there is an equal number of ladies and gentlemen, and the number is less than fifty-two, a sufficient number of red and black cards should be sorted out, and the ladies asked to draw from the red, the men from the black; those getting the same denominations being partners. For instance: 16 couples present themselves for play. The thirteen Hearts and the A 2 3 of Diamonds should be put into one hat for the ladies; the thirteen Clubs, and A 2 3 of Spades being put into another for the men. Those drawing the same denomination of Hearts and Clubs, or of Spades and Diamonds are partners.
Before play begins, the number of hands which it is proposed to play should be announced, or a time set for adjournment.
Driving.There is no rank attached to the tables, but they should be arranged in such a manner that players may know which table to go to next. The partners seat themselves wherever they please, and at the tap of the bell at the head of the table the deal is cut for, and play begins. The winners of the majority of the thirteen tricks at each table go to the next table. Here they may either continue to play as partners, or may divide, which ever has been the style of play decided upon by the hostess. When the partnerships have been drawn for, it is usual to preserve them for the evening.
The losing gentleman at each table has the deal for the next hand.
Scoring.Every hand must be played out for all it is worth, both winners and losers scoring all the tricks they take. If the same partners play together throughout the evening, one score-card will do for the couple. If they divide, each individual must have his or her own score-card. The winners are those who have taken the greatest number of tricks in the agreed number of hands, or during the time limit. When partners divide as they drive on, there should be two prizes, one for ladies, and one for gentlemen.