DUNAN ON LOCH TOURNAIG.
About half a mile beyond the head of Loch nan Dailthean, and a mile south from Tournaig, is the pretty natural wood called Coille Aigeascaig, whose charms are celebrated in Alexander Cameron's song, given inPart II., chap. xxiii.
There is a small cave among the hills two miles due east from Tournaig. It is calledUamh Mhic 'ille Rhiabhaich, or "the cave ofMac Gille Riabhaich." The cave is close to a loch bearing the same name, on which are two small islands, one of which seems to have been a stronghold. An account ofMac Gille Riabhaich, who lived in this cave, is given inPart I., chap. viii.
In one of the fields at Tournaig is a place where the natives in the old days used to bleed living cattle landed here from the Hebrides (Part II., chap. viii.).
At Tournaig the road bends to the left, and passes the Tournaig farm buildings, where lives Alexander Cameron, the farm manager, who is a Gaelic poet (Part II., chap. xxiii.). The branch of Loch Ewe which approaches Tournaig is called Loch Tournaig.
In Loch Tournaig is a small peninsular headland, on the north side of the Inverewe Point called the Dunan (seeillustration). This headland is insulated at high spring-tides. On it a dun, or fort, is said to have formerly stood, but tradition does not say who held it. There are many loose stones on the top, though no traces of walls or foundations can be found. The strongest evidence that this was the site of a fort or other similar place, is found in the large and regularly placed stepping-stones which connect it with the mainland. The now superfluous height of these stones seems to point to their having been placed there when the sea was at a higher level.
From Loch Tournaig the road ascends, and has a devious and rather tedious course, until Drumchork is reached. At one point on the way is a peep of the well-known form of the Storr rock in Skye; and further on a burn is crossed, which is the march in this direction between the estates of Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie and Mrs Liot Bankes. The western shore of Loch Ewe is well seen, with its townships of crofts. Loch Ewe is a fine expanse of water, opening due north to the Atlantic. Isle Ewe soon comes fully in view, with its little settlement towards the nearer end; whilst in the far distance may be seen, beyond the north-eastern extremity of the North Point and above the mouth of Loch Ewe, the northern parts of the Long Island, or at least of that part which is in the county of Ross, and is called "the Lews." Sometimes the three summits behind Stornoway may be distinctly discerned.
Drumchork, which is nearly seven miles from Poolewe, comprises a commodious shooting-lodge some way up the hillside (now leased by Mr C. E. Johnston), and nearer the road, on the right-hand side, a square of farm buildings, erected about 1880 on the site of the old house of Drumchork. This place, as well as the village of Aultbea, and the territory on both sides of the following road, including the whole of the Green Stone Point (except Mellon Charles, which is Sir Kenneth's), is the property of Mrs Liot Bankes. Her estate extends westward from here to a burn onSlioch, where it marches with Sir Kenneth's estate. Towards the north her property is bounded by the sea, and then by the Meikle Gruinard river; thus it extends beyond the parish of Gairloch; it may be said to include all the parts of the parish up toSliochlying to the north-east of LochMaree, the River Ewe, and Loch Ewe, except Mellon Charles and the Inveran beat belonging to Sir Kenneth, and except the estate of Mr Osgood H. Mackenzie. The latter extends northwards and eastwards toFionn Lochand the summit of BeinnAridh Charr. The road turns off, to the left, just below Drumchork, to the village of
Aultbea.
This village comprises an inn and post-office, and at some distance a large Free church and manse, with a stable where horses that have brought people from a distance to attend church can be put up. It may be said to comprise the hamlets or townships of Aultbea, Badfearn,Tighnafaoilinn, andCuilchonich, which cover about a square mile.
The name Aultbea signifies "the birch burn," but there are not many birches there now. The burn runs into the sea close behind the inn. The county road at present terminates here. The bay is formed by the Point of Aird, the channel between which and Isle Ewe is barely half a mile across, and affords safe anchorage. Here stands Aird House, occupied by Mr Muir. It was erected by the Mackenzies of Gruinard, and was the residence of that family for some time.
The inn is old-fashioned, but sufficient for bachelors who do not object to roughing it a little. The landlord, Mr Forbes, is most civil and obliging; and excellent angling, both in Loch Ewe and on some good fresh-water lochs, can be had by those staying at the inn. Mr Forbes can also provide a good horse and trap, and can arrange for the voyage from Laide to Ullapool suggested inPart IV., chap, ii., as a mode of exit from Gairloch. The hand-line fishing accessible from Aultbea, and the lythe trolling round the north end of Isle Ewe, are probably the best in Gairloch waters.
One of the two Gairloch policemen is stationed at Aultbea.
The road beyond Aultbea to Laide, and thence forward to Gruinard, has been put in excellent order by Mrs Liot Bankes, through whose property it passes. This and the branch roads are described inPart IV., chap. xii.
Thedrives from the Kenlochewe Hotel include those to various points of interest on the county road in both directions,—i.e.towards Achnasheen on the one hand (Part IV., chap, iii.), and towards Talladale on the other (Part IV., chap. iv.). Both sections will bear repeated examination, especially the part from Kenlochewe to Grudidh bridge in the direction of Talladale.
NEAR GRUDIE
The excursion to Loch Torridon is perhaps the most interesting expedition from Kenlochewe. The distance from the hotel to the head of Loch Torridon is eleven miles; the excursion, including a rest at Torridon village, will occupy five hours. For a shorter drive or walk the bridge on theAllt a Choire Dhuibh Mhoir, or "burn of the great black corrie," may be made the limit. As it is only a good six miles from Kenlochewe the horses will not require a rest. The road is not at present complete beyond Torridon, and the visitor who proceeds there from Kenlochewe must return by the same road, unless he has a yacht awaiting him at Torridon, or takes the routeviâShieldaig of Applecross recommended inPart IV., chap. ii. The road to Torridon leaves the Gairloch road at the north end of the village of Kenlochewe. It keeps the Garbh river to the left for some miles. About half a mile from Kenlochewe, in a picturesque bend of the river, is the hamlet of Cromasaig, where lived the old bard mentioned onpages 51and175. There are patches of natural birch wood and some rocky salmon pools on the river. To the right the magnificent mountain Beinn Eighe, with its quartzite peaks, rises very grandly; and in front are fine views of the Coulin hills. Fe (orFeith) Leoidis on the hill to the left; its name records the slaughter ofLeod Mac Gilleandreisby Black Murdo of the Cave (Part I., chap. iii.). Four miles from Kenlochewe, Loch Clair is reached. It is a beautiful sheet of water, about three quarters of a mile long, with fine old fir trees on its shores. The new private road to Achnashellach, ten miles from Kenlochewe, diverges at this point, and is seen skirting the eastern shore of Loch Clair. There is a rock near Loch Clair called Maelrubha's Seat, where it is said the saint of Isle Maree rested when travelling between the monastery of Applecross and his cell on Isle Maree. Half a mile beyond Loch Clair is a smaller loch on the left, calledLoch Bharanaichd. Two miles beyond LochClair the march or boundary between Gairloch and Applecross parishes is reached. To the right of the road, on the Gairloch side, is a pile of very large stones—evidently artificial—heaped up on a flat space. It is called Carn Anthony, or "Anthony's cairn," and is said to have been erected long ago in memory of a son, named Anthony, of one of the Mackenzie proprietors of Torridon. There are some remains of smaller heaps of stone by the side of the Torridon road formed by funeral processions at places where they halted to rest (Part II., chap. iii.). Half a mile beyond the march the road passes over the burn of the great black corrie. To the left, below Loch Bharanaichd, is a large hollow filled with a vast number of circular knolls or hillocks. This hollow is calledCoire Cheud Cnoc, or "the corrie of a hundred hillocks." These singular mounds appear to a casual observer to resemble the artificial sepulchral tumuli found in other parts of the kingdom, but in reality, as geologists tell us, they are due to the natural action of ice or water in ages long since past. Some guide-books erroneously call the placeCoire Cheud Creagh, or "the corrie of a hundred spoils;" the spoils were cattle lifted—i.e.stolen—in Gairloch; they were often driven this way, so that the name though fictitious has some justification. It was at shieling bothies near this place that Alastair Ross called for the Lochaber cattle-lifters, as related inPart I., chap. xiii. Another traditional incident assigned to this locality is that illustrating the Rev. Mr Sage's muscular Christianity, narrated inPart I., chap. xvi. The remainder of the road to Torridon is overshadowed by the mighty precipices ofLiathgach, the highest top of which is 3456 feet above the sea level. The prefixBeinnoften put before the name of this mountain is superfluous and out of place. Her Majesty Queen Victoria drove to Torridon on 15th September 1877, and in her diary refers to "the dark mural precipices of that most extraordinary mountain." Her Majesty writes:—"We were quite amazed as we drove below it.Beinn Liathgachis most peculiar from its being so dark, and the rocks like terraces one above the other, or like fortifications and pillars—most curious; the glen itself is very flat, and the mountains rise very abruptly on either side. There were two cottages (in one of which lived a keeper), a few cattle, and a great many cut peats."
The dark hill to the left isSgurr Dubh(2566 feet), a gloomy mass of steep rocks. On its west side, in an elevated hollow invisible from the road, is the little loch or tarn calledLochan an Fheidh, where the battle between the Mackenzies underAlastair Breacand the Macleods underIain MacAllan Mhic Ruaridhtook place in 1610. The Macleods were completely routed, and nettles still grow over the spot where their bodies have long since returned to dust. Further on, to the left, isBeinn na h' Eaglais(2410 feet), or "church hill," a name evidencing the widespread labours of the followers of St Columba, who brought Christianity to these parts. The descent down the narrow glen towards Loch Torridon becomes steeper as we proceed, and in due time the little village of Torridon, at the head of the loch, is reached. Since the boundary of the parish of Gairloch waspassed the road has been entirely on the estate of Mr Duncan Darroch, proprietor of Torridon, descended fromMacGille Riabhaich(seepage 28); he is an enthusiastic Highlander, and since he acquired this property in 1872 has done much to improve not only the estate but the condition of the people. He has erected a noble mansion on the shore of the loch about two miles beyond the village. He has recently sold theBeinn Damhestate, on the south side of the river and loch of Torridon, to the Earl of Lovelace.
A pleasant hour may be spent while the horses are being rested at Torridon. The low promontory jutting into the loch near the village is the Ploc of Torridon, mentioned in the story of the visit of John Roy Mackenzie to Lord Mackenzie of Kintail (Part I., chap xi.). From some points of viewBeinn AlliginandBeinn Damhare conspicuous in the landscape.Beinn Alligin(3232 feet) is to the north of Loch Torridon, and is the mountain seen so well from Gairloch;Beinn Damh(2956 feet) has not such a noble contour. The traveller will probably return by the road just traversed. In some respects the views seem finer on the return journey.
Another pleasant little expedition from Kenlochewe is to the Heights of Kenlochewe, distant about three miles; the road is traversable so far by wheeled vehicles. Cross the bridge over the Bruachaig river just above the Kenlochewe lodge, and follow the road which soon bends to the right. There are good views from different points, especially ofBeinn Eighe. The "Heights of Kenlochewe" is the name of the sheep farm, but the road does not attain to a level of more than three hundred feet above the sea. The glen has been erroneously called Glen Logan. The local name is GlenCruaidh Choillie. The south-east side of it is calledLeacaidh, or "the place of flags." Can "Logan" have been invented by some one who mispronouncedLeacaidh? The great glen north of the head of this glen is calledGlen na Muic, or the "glen of the pig;" they say wild boar were formerly hunted here; it must have been long ago. Some old people of the district locate the Fingalian legend of the "Boar of Diarmid" inGlen na Muicbut that well known and almost universal story is connected with many other places in the Highlands.
The path on the east side of Loch Maree forms an interesting expedition, or series of expeditions, for the pedestrian. Cross the bridge over the Bruachaig river, as if going to the Heights; turn to the left, and take the path past the head-keeper's house and the kennels. At a house to the right Duncan Mackenzie, the Kenlochewe bard, lives (Part II., chap, xxiii.). A little further are the farm and burial-ground of Culinellan; some remains of a house outside the burial-ground are called "the chapel;" it may have occupied the site of an ancient church, but this is mere conjecture. It is however certain that there was a church in this neighbourhood in the seventeenth century, and probably much earlier (seepage 99). The river was formerly on this side of the burial-ground; a great flood altered the course of the stream, and they say washed away some bodies. Further on, immediately to the left of the path, is a small well, calledTobar Mhoire,i.e.the well of the Virgin Mary, orperhaps of the god Mourie (seePart II., chap. xi.). There is no better water in the country than this bubbling well supplies. Some of the old inhabitants believe that the ancient church called "Heglis Loch Ew" stood near the well. From a point half a mile beyond Culinellan the path lies along the bank of the Kenlochewe river. It is about two miles from Kenlochewe to the south-east corner of Loch Maree. Half a mile before this is reached is the small pond or swamp calledLochan Cul na Cathrach, into which the Fasagh ironworkers are said to have thrown their tools when the furnaces there were abandoned (Part I., chap. xx.). The name means "the lakelet or tarn at the back of the fairy seat;" a large mound or hillock at this place is calledCathir Mhor, or "the big seat of the fairies;" evidently the "good folk" frequented this place. Some other mounds here are calledTorran nan Eun, or "the mounds of the birds;" the locality was formerly wooded. A large pool on the river is called Poll a Chuillin, or "the pool of the hollies," but there are no hollies there now. Another half mile brings us to the remains of the Fasagh ironworks, on the east side of theFasaghburn, which comes from Loch Fada. These ironworks are described inPart I., chap. xx. The dark crag above is calledBonaid Donn, or "the brown bonnet." There is a wooden bridge over the burn, a little above the ironworks, and again above this bridge a narrow gorge; through which the burn has worn a deep course; it is a very picturesque spot. A quarter of a mile further the Cladh nan Sasunnach, or "English burial-ground," lies on a low flat bank close to the loch (Part I., chap. xviii.). Two hundred yards to the east of this burial-ground the path bends due north; it leads to Letterewe, and is well worth following as far as Regoilachy. The hamlet ofSmiorsairis about four miles from Kenlochewe. It is situate in a hollow or dell, between the mightySlioch(on the north) and a ridge of no great height stretching between the secluded plateau whereSmiorsairnestles and Loch Maree. It is a romantic place with its waterfall, and a quiet burn meandering through the flat ground. The path next passes through a narrow gully calledClais na Leac, where they say ironstone used to be quarried. A mile beyondSmiorsairis the place called Regoilachy, near the shore of Loch Maree; there are remains of houses, but no one lives there now. The other hamlets between this and Letterewe are each about a mile apart; they are Coppachy,Innis Ghlas, andFuirneis. Letterewe House is again a mile beyondFuirneis; it is a walk of nine miles from Kenlochewe to Letterewe. The expedition may be continued beyond Letterewe to Ardlair, four miles, and thence on by Inveran to Poolewe, another four miles; but some portions of the path can scarcely be distinguished by strangers, and the part along the Bull-rock is, to say the least, difficult, and I do not recommend it. TheFasaghburn andSmiorsairmay with advantage be made the objects of separate excursions, especially by those who sketch.
Perhaps the most generally enjoyable excursions from Kenlochewe are expeditions on Loch Maree itself. Boats can be hired in connection with the Kenlochewe Hotel, and many sailing or rowingtrips undertaken in them along either shore of the loch. Not only the angler, but the searcher after health, the archaeologist, and the artist or amateur sketcher, will find much to interest and delight. TheFasaghburn and its ironworks, theCladh nan Sasunnach, the curiousGrudidhisland, and the beauties of the lower part of theGrudidhriver, may be visited by boat.
Theexcursions from the Loch Maree Hotel at Talladale, so far asterra firmais concerned, are principally to points along either section of the county road in the directions of Kenlochewe or Gairloch. These sections are described inPart IV., chaps. iv.andv. I recommendGrudidhbridge on the former, and the Kerry Falls on the latter, as being pleasant limits for drives or walks. The excursion to Torridon may, in imitation of Her Majesty, be made from the Talladale Hotel; and places near Gairloch (seenext chapter) may also be visited from this hotel by those who prefer it to the larger and busier hotel at Gairloch.
SLIOCH FROM RUDHA AIRD AN ANAIL.
For other walks from Talladale, a climb to the top of the lower hill immediately behind the hotel, a ramble about the hamlet of Talladale, and a stroll to the Victoria Falls, are recommended. Please spare the oak fern in the woods near Talladale.
A longer walk is to take the county road going west so far as the turn down to Slatadale farm. Take this turn, and when the shore of Loch Maree is reached, close to the farmhouse, walk a mile, or two miles if you like, in a north-westerly direction, along the old road which passes behind Craig Tollie, in the direction of Poolewe. This ramble has several fine points of view, and though after leaving Slatadale the road or track is rather rough, the walk will not be too much for any one in ordinary condition. This is a delightful excursion, and ought by all means to be tried. It may be prolonged to Poolewe (seemap).
But as at Kenlochewe, so at Talladale, Loch Maree itself supplies the most charming expeditions. These may be taken either by the steamer or by hired boats.
The steamer is timed so as to give those staying at the Loch Maree Hotel, Talladale, the opportunity of visiting Tollie bay soon after breakfast. A short stay is permitted in the lovely nook where Tollie pier has been erected; and the return voyage to Talladale is accomplished by noon. The visitor on returning from Tollie may, instead of landing at Talladale, proceed at once to Ru Nohar, at the head of Loch Maree, and after spending an hour there may return by the steamer and be again landed at Talladale about or before threep.m.; or this excursion may be made apart from and on a different day to the voyage to Tollie and back. Either way luncheon should be taken toRu Nohar, as there is scarcely time to visit the Kenlochewe Hotel for that purpose. This expedition is described inPart IV., chap. xiii.
The boating excursions from the Loch Maree Hotel, Talladale, are almost endless. The shores of Loch Maree, within a distance of four or five miles from the hotel, may be best surveyed and examined from a boat. It is usually the angler who adopts this means of locomotion, but those who are sketching or seeking for fresh points of view will find a boat equally suitable.
Thefollowing drives may be taken from the Gairloch Hotel.
1. To any of the places on the road on the south side of the Gairloch (see "Tables of distances"). Leaving the county road at the Kerry bridge, an estate road strikes off to the right, and passes picturesque natural birch woods, with a fine view ofBathaisor BusBheinnover the moorland to the left. In the narrow ravine as we approach Shieldaig is an interesting "junction" of the Archæan gneiss and the Cambrian conglomerate. It is described inPart III., chap. ix. At Shieldaig is the pretty lodge leased by Mr J. Bateson, the Marquis of Bristol, and Mr A. Hamond. The garden is brilliant with choice flowers, even as seen from the road. Shieldaig isplaced in a secluded little bay called Loch Shieldaig, in which are two islands. The road ascends, and a mile further the hamlet ofLeac nan Saigheadlies to the right. Close to the shore atLeac nan Saigheadmay still be seen the spot where DonaldOdharand his brotherIain Odharconcealed themselves and nearly four hundred yards away isFraoch Eilean, or "the heather island," where so many of the M'Leods were slain by the arrows of those Macrae heroes (Part I., chap. xii.). Kenneth Fraser, who has probably as large a store of the old traditions and legends of Gairloch as any other inhabitant, lives atLeac nan Saighead. The road now strikes inland, and skirts Loch Badachro, at the north-western corner of which the rocky Badachro river leaves the loch for its short course to the sea. It is a remarkably picturesque little river, with its rocky bed and banks, and its overhanging trees. The fishing of the loch and river are let with Shieldaig. Passing the farmhouse of Badachro we soon come in sight of the village of Badachro, at the head of an almost landlocked bay shut in by islands, one of them the considerable Eilean Horisdale or Thorisdale, so called after the Norse god Thor. The Dry Island is joined to the mainland at low tide. Here are two fish-curing stations, Badachro being the centre of the important cod-fishery of Gairloch (Part II., chap. ix.). After leaving Badachro the road again strikes inland, and passes a loch, fully half a mile in length, calledLoch Bad na h' Achlais. Another mile brings us to the straggling village of Port-Henderson; and again another mile over a rugged and boulder-bestrewed moor and we are on the sandy hill overlooking the pretty bay of Opinan, where there is a fine sandy beach. On the headland between Port-Henderson and Opinan is the Uamh nam Freiceadain (mentioned inPart I., chaps. xii.andxxi.). A short distance to the north of this place there is on the seashore a large cave, which is worth a visit; it is calledUamh an Oir. It has a fine entrance; it branches off right and left; the branch to the left can be followed for about forty yards, that to the right is not so deep. In the village of Opinan are the board school and volunteer armoury, the latter an iron house. A little beyond the village, to the south, is the new Free church, which is a mission church or chapel-of-ease in connection with the parent Free church of Gairloch. It is a plain and substantial building of recent erection. You cannot drive further than South Erradale, but the road beyond is well worth exploration on foot. Some of the inhabitants can point out the green spot in a hollow where the two Macleod fratricides were slain and buried (page 26). The village of South Erradale, with its stream called the Red River, is about a mile beyond Opinan. Two of the dwelling-houses are built of turf. At the upper end of the crofts are theGarradh Iaruinn, or "iron dyke," and other evidences of bog iron (seepage 87). About three miles further we come to the farm of Point, or Red Point, where is also much bog iron. Along all this route are magnificent views of the Torridon mountains, of the island of Rona, and of the shores and mountains of Skye, which last are much nearer and more plainly seen than from the Gairloch Hotel. The rocky coast, with the primitive houses ofthe people, the rough moorland, and the background of rugged mountains, give to this expedition the charm of great wildness. Your charioteer can rest his horses at Opinan or South Erradale whilst you walk further on.
2. To any of the places on the road running along the north side of the Gairloch (see "Tables of distances"). This expedition may be done by carriage as far as Melvaig. Leaving the Gairloch Hotel by the county road going in the direction of Poolewe we turn off to the left at Achtercairn. Passing the police-station and the board school on the right, we are quickly on the sea-shore. Turn to the right, and cross the curious narrow wooden bridge over the Achtercairn river or burn. To the right, a little way from the road, is the manse of Gairloch (Part I., chap. xvi.), and then the fishing village of Strath or Smithstown is entered, at the back of which there was formerly much bog iron. There are two good merchants' shops, a boat-building yard, several shoemakers' shops, and a meal-mill. The straggling village of Lonmor lies to the right of and above the road after we pass Strath. Here plenty of bog iron is still to be met with (Part I. chap. xx.). Except for the views of the Gairloch, with Skye in the distance, the road is now uninteresting for a mile or two. It bends to the north atCarn DeargHouse (Mr Corson), which is a peculiar building, close to the road, with an enormous red-tiled roof. Below the house is a low rocky cliff, of a reddish colour. About a mile inland are theSitheanan Dubha, or "fairies' hills."
A little beyondCarn Deargis a fine sandy bay, and half a mile from the shore is the island of Longa. It is more than a mile in length; in ancient times it was a retreat of the Norse vikings (Part I., chap. i.). FromCarn Deargthe road strikes inland due north, passing the farm of Little Sand on the left, and beyond that again around a large sandy bay the village called Big Sand. Among the first sandhills you come to on the farm of Little Sand may be seen some thin pans of bog iron (Part I., chap. xx.). More than a mile further on, close to the new board school, the road bends again towards the west. The hill to the right isMeall na Glaice Daraich(522 feet), and then further on, to the left between the road and the sea, lies the township of North Erradale. The building near the road, with its clump of trees, was formerly the schoolhouse; it is now used as a place of worship. Among the crofts of North Erradale some remains of bog iron pans are met with (Part I., chap. xx.). At the shore, below the village, is a rocky cove enclosing a shingly beach, where the people keep their boats.
A little to the north of this is a wonderful cave, known as Uamh an Oir. It is said that ages ago twelve men, headed by a piper, marched into the cave, the piper playing a lively strain; they were to search for the precious metal; the party are believed to have wandered for miles among the windings of the cavern; the music of the bagpipes was heard underground as far away as the village of Strath, Gairloch, but neither the piper nor any of the men ever came back; it is supposed "they forgot to turn." Further details of this story are given by some, who connect it with an old song well-knownin the Argyleshire and other Highlands. I have explored the cave, candle in hand, as far as to where the passage narrows. Before the narrow part is reached there is a large chamber, in which are traces of fires said to have been used for the illicit distillation of whisky. The cavern appeared to expand again beyond the narrow place. They say the cave may be explored a long way further, but Mr Corson tells me he cannot discover any passage. The cave is well worth a visit. Lights must be provided, and care be taken that return to the outer world is not delayed by the tide, which for two hours before and after high water prevents access to or from the cave unless a boat be at hand.
From North Erradale a long stretch of road conducts the traveller towards the north. The hamlets of Peterburn and Altgreshan are passed, and at last the village of Melvaig is reached. It has a good school, and is placed on the top of a rocky cliff, of no great height but so steep that the shore below can only be safely reached by those who are acquainted with the place and have a ladder. There is a cave on the shore, which has been used for illicit distillation. There are magnificent views of the Minch and its islands from Melvaig and near it. It is well worth walking three miles north of Melvaig along the cliffs toRudha Reidh, or theSeann Rudhaas it is often called by the natives. About a mile from Melvaig any inhabitant will point out the "leac," or large flat stone, from the shelter of whichFionnla Dubh nan Saigheadand his friend Chisholm let fly their arrows at the crew of Macleod's birlinn (Part I., chap. xii.). Two or three picturesque burns are passed, and the cliffs gradually rise to a height of 300 feet.Rudha Reidhitself is a fine headland of reddish rocks, with a very picturesque bay to the right, exhibiting on a sunny day remarkable contrasts of colour, the sands being white, the rocks and cliffs black and red, and the sea intense emerald green streaked with purple. Looking over the cliffs some detached masses of rock are seen standing in the sea. One square rock is called Stac Buidhe, or "the yellow stack," from the brilliant orange-coloured lichens growing upon it. It is the breeding-place of a few gulls and other sea birds. Twenty miles away due west the Shiant Isles are visible. Return by the same route. Your horses will require a rest at Melvaig.
These are the principal drives from the Gairloch Hotel, but several shorter drives may be made with great advantage on the county road in the direction of the pass leading to Slatadale on Loch Maree. I can recommend the drives to Kerrysdale or to the Kerry Falls, or still further to Loch Bad na Sgalaig and Feur Loch, or to the head of the pass, whence a magnificent view of Loch Maree and its islands is obtained.
It is a good drive also to Poolewe (Part IV., chap. vi.), and the drives recommended in the next chapter to be made from Poolewe may be conveniently taken from the Gairloch Hotel (Part IV., chap. xi.).
Undoubtedly the chief excursion to be made from the Gairloch Hotel is that on Loch Maree. Carriages leave the Gairloch Hotel about ten a.m., and convey passengers to Tollie pier. The road toTollie is described inPart IV., chap. vi. Hence the voyage of theMabelis made (Part IV., chap. xiii.), and the party can return to the Gairloch Hotel by fivep.m.the same day.
There are very pleasant expeditions to be made by boat on the Gairloch, not only by anglers but by those who wish to explore this fine bay and its interesting shores and islands. You may land on the island calledFraoch Eileanand see the graves of the Macleods, nearly three centuries old (Part I., chap. xii.); or you may go into Loch Badachro and learn all about its cod fishery; or you may venture as far as the rocky shores of the wild island of Longa. The angler will get good sport in the Gairloch, either trolling or with hand lines (Part IV., chap. xvi.).
Of walks there are many about Gairloch. A short but steep stroll, affording splendid views, is that up the hill behind the hotel, called the Kirk hill. Another short walk is to explore the villages of Achtercairn and Strath. If the salmon fishing be going on, a visit to the salmon station at Achtercairn may lead to the acquisition of interesting information on the subject; or the sergeant-instructor of the Gairloch volunteers will obligingly show the armoury he has charge of. Other strolls are to Strath and Lonmor, or to the large sandy beach below the Gairloch Established church. This latter may include the old Gairloch churchyard, where so many of the Gairloch family of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries are buried, as well as many of the bards and pipers, and where is also the tombstone of John Hay, discussed inPart I., chap. xviii.; this walk may also include an examination of theCnoc a Croiche(Part II., chap. iv.), and of the Dun, and remains of the vitrified fort (Part I., chaps. vi.,vii.,xi., andxxi.) at the further end of the large sandy beach. Below the rocks, and on the face of them, at the extreme east end of the sandy beach, is a remarkable junction, where the Archæan gneiss and the Cambrian conglomerate or breccia actually touch each other. This stroll may be prolonged toPort na Heile, where the Gairloch pier is situated. Another and a longer walk is to take the old road, to the left, at the south end of the bridge at Ceann an t' sail, where the post-office is, and then follow this old road until it joins the county road a little belowLoch Bad na Sgalaig. The return walk fromLoch Bad na Sgalaigmay be varied by taking the present county road back to the Gairloch Hotelviâthe Kerry Falls, Kerrysdale and Charlestown. The old road is rough, and most visitors will find it best to walk both to and from the Kerry Falls by the county road, and I certainly advise this as preferable in every way. Other rambles in the neighbourhood of the Gairloch Hotel may be made along the sea-shore, in both directions, and on the nearer parts of the roads already described. Anglers will enjoy the fishing on Loch Tollie.
Students of geology will find many places about Gairloch that are well worth examination (seePart III., chap. ix.). Dr Geikie, in his "Geological Sketches," writes as follows of the interesting geological facts of the neighbourhood of the Gairloch Hotel. He says:—"Behind the new hotel at Gairloch the ground rises steeply into arocky bank of the old gneiss. Along the base of these slopes the gneiss (which is here a greenish schist) is wrapped round with a breccia of remarkable coarseness and toughness. We noticed some blocks in it fully five feet long. It is entirely made up of angular fragments of the schist underneath, to which it adheres with great tenacity. Here again rounded and smoothed domes of the older rock can be traced passing under the breccia. On the coast, immediately to the south of the new Free church, a series of instructive sections lays bare the worn undulating platform of gneiss, with its overlying cover of coarse angular breccia."
More distant excursions to places described in connection with Talladale, Kenlochewe, Poolewe, and Aultbea—either drives, walks, or boating expeditions—may be taken from Gairloch, by utilising the Loch Maree steamer, or the public mail-car, or by hiring; in fact all the expeditions recommended to be made from any of those places may be worked from the Gairloch Hotel.
FromPoolewe there are several interesting drives to be taken.
1.To Places on the West Side of Loch Ewe.—From Poolewe Inn strike off to the left along the sea-shore. The first house beyond the inn is called Cliff House (Mr J. Mackenzie). Here was formerly the Gairloch manse. A little further, to the left of the road, are the two large holes, full of water (Part I., chap. xx.), which were borings made long ago by Sir George Hay or some of the ironworkers, who projected a canal to connect Loch Maree with the head of Loch Ewe. About half a mile from Poolewe the road forms a sharp angle to the right. This place is calledCuil an Scardain, a very descriptive name, for it means "the corner of the screes." There were formerly houses here. Many spots have Gaelic names indicating either that they were formerly inhabited, or that some particular incidents celebrated by the "seannachaidh" occurred at the places. The little water-mill of Boor for grinding meal is soon reached. It is on the right of the road at the foot of a rocky burn, whose steep descent to the left makes quite a picture as you look up it from the road. The farm of Boor is now passed. The farmhouse (Mr John Mackenzie) is on the hill side to the left. A little hazel scrub, containing a few choice wildflowers, is on the same side of the road. It was in this direction that the last of the chiefs of the Macbeaths fled from the two Kintail men (Part I., chap. vi.). The name "Boor" is supposed by some to have originated in this incident; others say the name means the "roaring" of a stag. For some distance beyond there is nothing requiring notice except Sgeir Bhoora (the rock of Boor), a small island in Loch Ewe. The small headland jutting into Loch Ewe at the north end of Boor farm iscalled on the Dutch map of 1662 Ruymakilvandrich,i.e.Rudha Mac Ghille Aindreas, or "the point of the son of St Andrew's servant or disciple;" the story of this place is now lost. The road skirts Loch Ewe, which widens somewhat abruptly beyond the opposite point calledFiaclachan, on the Inverewe side of the loch. The Isle of Ewe (with its satellitesSgeir an FharaigandSgeir a Bhuic) comes into sight, and far away to the north are gradually expanding views of range beyond range of the mountains of Sutherland. Naast is the first village we pass. Its Norse name is said to mean a castle or fort; a stronghold anciently stood on the rocky headland forming the tiny bay below the township, where a picturesque group of fishing boats is generally to be seen lying on the beach. The headland is called Dun Naast (seepages 61and98). Another mile brings us to the commencement of Inverasdale, a straggling collection of hamlets spread over a tract a mile and a half in length and half a mile or more in width. Inverasdale is entered by a narrow bridge over the burn called the Great Burn (though it is but small), which joins the salt water at a picturesque little creek often occupied by herring boats out of work. On the other side of the creek is a tall house, formerly the school. The large room in the building is now used as a place of worship by the members of the Free Church. The section of Inverasdale on the hillside to the left is called Brae; the portion through which the road first passes is called Midtown, or Middletown, or Ballymeon. Further on, the allotments, or rather crofts, cover a wide space between the road and Loch Ewe, with thoroughly Highland dwellings dotted here and there. This section is called Coast. The substantial board school, with the teacher's house adjoining, is to the left of the road nearly at the hill top. Near the school some pans of bog iron may be noticed. Descending the hill the hamlet ofFaidhir Mor, or Firemore, which is the furthest north portion of Inverasdale, lies to the right. On a promontory here are the signals indicating where the telegraph cable begins its submarine course to Stornoway, the capital of the Lews. The range of hills which having commenced with Craig Tollie on Loch Maree was continued behind Poolewe by Cliff Hill, and has been prolonged by a series of rocky eminences, varying from three to six hundred feet in height, along the side of the road as far as Inverasdale, has now receded some distance away to the left, or rather the road has deviated considerably to the right. That range of hills runs forward in an almost straight line until it reaches the Minch, where it is broken off and forms the rocky headland calledRudha Reidh, orSeann Rudha, mentioned in the last chapter. On the east side of the highest top of this range is the place calledBac an Leth-choin, and a moorland ridge between the road and the range of hills is the Druim cam Neill; both are mentioned in the story of the death of Neil Macleod told inPart I., chap. xii. Crossing the burn beyond Firemore the road skirts a beautiful sandy bay, and shortly arrives atMeallan na Ghamhna, or Stirkhill. There are some caves frequented by rock pigeon, on the sea margin of the hill. It was here that a cave full of weapons,which (both cave and weapons) had been concealed long ago by means of the "sian," were seen by some women gathering lichens not many years since (Part II., chap. xiv.). Two miles away, to the left, the woods of Loch a Druing may be noticed clothing a hollow on the side of the range of hills beyond theBac an Leth-choin. It was in these woods that the fairy called theGille Dubhlived (Part II., chap. xiii.); and behind the top of the ridge is the Fedan Mor, where Duncan MacRae hid the keg of gold (Part II., chap. xiv.). The road is not passable for carriages beyond Stirkhill, but a walk forward to Cove is strongly recommended. The primitive out-of-the-world character of the place and its inhabitants, the fine cave, the natural arch (seeillustration), and the views from and general features of the coast, will well repay the pedestrian who spends an hour in the following stroll. The village of Cove begins very soon after you leave your carriage. The road is a cart road, until, on the left, a house is reached with a wing (formerly used as a school) at right angles to its main portion. Open the door of this wing and you see a curious room, which is a place of worship with its little pulpit, and is also a store-house of all manner of fishing implements and dresses. The house is the home of the catechist attached to the Aultbea and Poolewe Free churches. The picturesque cove or harbour is to the right of the path, and when the many coloured boats are laid up on its shore it forms a charming picture. Go forward by the narrowing path, and ask some of the civil inhabitants to show you the cave where they worship. It is a romantic place with its old desk, and stones and pieces of wood arranged for seats, the nest of a mavis or thrush on a ledge of rock, and the narrow entrance veiled by a tangle of woodbine and eglantine. The sea can almost wash into this cave. A few yards from it is a hole which opens intoanother and smaller cave; there is a larger cave in the rocky headland nearer the harbour. A brief further stroll on the top of the low cliff reveals the curious detached rock standing out from the shore with its natural arch (seeillustration), resembling similar arches at Torquay, Freshwater (Isle of Wight), and other places. The return from Cove is by the same route, or a boat may be hired to Poolewe.