Centre-Table Gossip.

9.THOUGHformed of what by all is prized,I'm universally despised:Though light[6]myself, I darken you;And though I'm missed, I balk your view.In cities is my favorite haunt,Although afloat I also flaunt:Land travellers e'er rail at me,While sailors wish me in the sea.Yet, spite of all their dire abuse,The wise will deem I serve some use.10.OFgoodness the beginningAm I, you may depend,Although also of sinningUndoubtedly the end.In grief hard-used I must confess,As well as gravity;But softened e'er by gentlenessAnd generosity.Grandees to me give precedence(So prominent in grace):For gold I claim a preference,And guilt also embrace.But greater far than all of theseIn glory I transcend,And lead the Highest of DegreesThe mind can comprehend.11.THOUGHvariable as the wind am I,A steady servant ne'ertheless I prove;By active drudgery your wants supply,And moving frequently, yet ne'er remove.Hard-hearted are my motives; yet you'll ownNo fairer workman than myself could live;Then I'm a sailor, though a landsman known,And, fairly dealt with, fairest measures give.12."Tria juncta in uno."LIKEthe leaf of the shamrock, an union of three,On the stalk of humanity flourish should we—Three blossoms of heavenly beauty and grace,Which you may in the following similes trace.While one with the sun may in fervor compare,The fixed centre whose glorious ardor we share;The second resembles sweet Phœbe, whose light,The reflex of the first, must illume the mind's night.Then our third our own beautiful planet portrays,Whose beautiful harmonies gladden our days.The one ever ardent, inspiring, we find,The other two sanctified spirits enshrinedIn their mystical palace: one cheering our heart;While the other's sweet ministry 'tis to impartWhat may happiness ever to others extend,And of mundane felicity prove a real friend.Now the poetized graces extinguished must be,By comparison e'er with our paragon Three!Therefore, we presume, with a little address,The names of our glorious triad you'll guess.

9.THOUGHformed of what by all is prized,I'm universally despised:Though light[6]myself, I darken you;And though I'm missed, I balk your view.In cities is my favorite haunt,Although afloat I also flaunt:Land travellers e'er rail at me,While sailors wish me in the sea.Yet, spite of all their dire abuse,The wise will deem I serve some use.10.OFgoodness the beginningAm I, you may depend,Although also of sinningUndoubtedly the end.In grief hard-used I must confess,As well as gravity;But softened e'er by gentlenessAnd generosity.Grandees to me give precedence(So prominent in grace):For gold I claim a preference,And guilt also embrace.But greater far than all of theseIn glory I transcend,And lead the Highest of DegreesThe mind can comprehend.11.THOUGHvariable as the wind am I,A steady servant ne'ertheless I prove;By active drudgery your wants supply,And moving frequently, yet ne'er remove.Hard-hearted are my motives; yet you'll ownNo fairer workman than myself could live;Then I'm a sailor, though a landsman known,And, fairly dealt with, fairest measures give.12."Tria juncta in uno."LIKEthe leaf of the shamrock, an union of three,On the stalk of humanity flourish should we—Three blossoms of heavenly beauty and grace,Which you may in the following similes trace.While one with the sun may in fervor compare,The fixed centre whose glorious ardor we share;The second resembles sweet Phœbe, whose light,The reflex of the first, must illume the mind's night.Then our third our own beautiful planet portrays,Whose beautiful harmonies gladden our days.The one ever ardent, inspiring, we find,The other two sanctified spirits enshrinedIn their mystical palace: one cheering our heart;While the other's sweet ministry 'tis to impartWhat may happiness ever to others extend,And of mundane felicity prove a real friend.Now the poetized graces extinguished must be,By comparison e'er with our paragon Three!Therefore, we presume, with a little address,The names of our glorious triad you'll guess.

9.

9.

THOUGHformed of what by all is prized,I'm universally despised:Though light[6]myself, I darken you;And though I'm missed, I balk your view.In cities is my favorite haunt,Although afloat I also flaunt:Land travellers e'er rail at me,While sailors wish me in the sea.Yet, spite of all their dire abuse,The wise will deem I serve some use.

THOUGHformed of what by all is prized,

I'm universally despised:

Though light[6]myself, I darken you;

And though I'm missed, I balk your view.

In cities is my favorite haunt,

Although afloat I also flaunt:

Land travellers e'er rail at me,

While sailors wish me in the sea.

Yet, spite of all their dire abuse,

The wise will deem I serve some use.

10.

10.

OFgoodness the beginningAm I, you may depend,Although also of sinningUndoubtedly the end.

OFgoodness the beginning

Am I, you may depend,

Although also of sinning

Undoubtedly the end.

In grief hard-used I must confess,As well as gravity;But softened e'er by gentlenessAnd generosity.

In grief hard-used I must confess,

As well as gravity;

But softened e'er by gentleness

And generosity.

Grandees to me give precedence(So prominent in grace):For gold I claim a preference,And guilt also embrace.

Grandees to me give precedence

(So prominent in grace):

For gold I claim a preference,

And guilt also embrace.

But greater far than all of theseIn glory I transcend,And lead the Highest of DegreesThe mind can comprehend.

But greater far than all of these

In glory I transcend,

And lead the Highest of Degrees

The mind can comprehend.

11.

11.

THOUGHvariable as the wind am I,A steady servant ne'ertheless I prove;By active drudgery your wants supply,And moving frequently, yet ne'er remove.

THOUGHvariable as the wind am I,

A steady servant ne'ertheless I prove;

By active drudgery your wants supply,

And moving frequently, yet ne'er remove.

Hard-hearted are my motives; yet you'll ownNo fairer workman than myself could live;Then I'm a sailor, though a landsman known,And, fairly dealt with, fairest measures give.

Hard-hearted are my motives; yet you'll own

No fairer workman than myself could live;

Then I'm a sailor, though a landsman known,

And, fairly dealt with, fairest measures give.

12.

12.

"Tria juncta in uno."

"Tria juncta in uno."

LIKEthe leaf of the shamrock, an union of three,On the stalk of humanity flourish should we—Three blossoms of heavenly beauty and grace,Which you may in the following similes trace.

LIKEthe leaf of the shamrock, an union of three,

On the stalk of humanity flourish should we—

Three blossoms of heavenly beauty and grace,

Which you may in the following similes trace.

While one with the sun may in fervor compare,The fixed centre whose glorious ardor we share;The second resembles sweet Phœbe, whose light,The reflex of the first, must illume the mind's night.Then our third our own beautiful planet portrays,Whose beautiful harmonies gladden our days.The one ever ardent, inspiring, we find,The other two sanctified spirits enshrinedIn their mystical palace: one cheering our heart;While the other's sweet ministry 'tis to impartWhat may happiness ever to others extend,And of mundane felicity prove a real friend.Now the poetized graces extinguished must be,By comparison e'er with our paragon Three!Therefore, we presume, with a little address,The names of our glorious triad you'll guess.

While one with the sun may in fervor compare,

The fixed centre whose glorious ardor we share;

The second resembles sweet Phœbe, whose light,

The reflex of the first, must illume the mind's night.

Then our third our own beautiful planet portrays,

Whose beautiful harmonies gladden our days.

The one ever ardent, inspiring, we find,

The other two sanctified spirits enshrined

In their mystical palace: one cheering our heart;

While the other's sweet ministry 'tis to impart

What may happiness ever to others extend,

And of mundane felicity prove a real friend.

Now the poetized graces extinguished must be,

By comparison e'er with our paragon Three!

Therefore, we presume, with a little address,

The names of our glorious triad you'll guess.

[6]Lucus a non lucendo.

[6]Lucus a non lucendo.

TOREMOVESTAINS OFWINE ORFRUIT FROMTABLELINEN.—A wine stain may sometimes be removed by rubbing it, while wet, with common salt. It is said, also, that sherry wine poured immediately on a place where port wine has been spilled, will prevent its leaving a stain. Acertainway of extracting fruit or wine stains from table linen is to tie up some cream of tartar in the stained part (so as to form a sort of bag), and then to put the linen into a lather of soap and cold water, and boil it awhile. Then transfer it wet to lukewarm suds, wash and rinse it well, and dry and iron it. The stains will disappear during the process. Another way is to mix, in equal quantities, soft soap, slacked lime, and pearlash. Rub the stain with this preparation, and expose the linen to the sun with the mixture plastered on it. If necessary, repeat the application. As soon as the stain has disappeared, wash out the linen immediately, as it will be injured if the mixture is left in it.

TO MAKE GOODINK.—Take one pound logwood, one gallon soft water, boil it one hour, add twenty-five grains bichromate of potash, twelve grains of prussiate of potash; stir a few minutes while over the fire, take it off, and when settled, strain it. This ink is bright jet black at first, flows beautifully from the pen, and is so indelible that even oxalic acid wilt not remove it from paper. No other ink will stand the test of oxalic acid. It is equally indelible on cloth.

TODYERED.—You can dye red with either cochineal, madder, Brazil wood, or archil; the latter is generally preferred for common dyes. Alum is all that is required tofixa color.

TOPRESERVEWOODWORK.—Boiled oil and finely-powdered charcoal, mix to the consistence of a paint, and give the wood two or three coats with this composition. Well adapted for water-spouts, casks, &c.

TOREMOVEIRONSPOTS ONMARBLE.—Mix equal quantities of spirit of vitriol and lemon-juice, shake it well; wet the spots with the mixture, and in a few minutes rub with a soft linen until they are completely effaced.

DOMESTIC RECEIPTS.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC MANGE.

[Third article.]

PINE-APPLECREAM.—Have some pine-apple prepared in syrup, and cut into small dice, putting it in your cream with a little of the syrup, the other process as before.

RASPBERRY ANDCURRANTCREAM.—Use a pottle of raspberries, and the juice of a handful of currants, passed through the sieve with the raspberries, then proceed as before, precisely.

CREMEMERINGUEE.—Infuse in a pint of new milk the very thin rind of a lemon, with four or five bitter almonds bruised. As the quantity should not be reduced, it should be kept by the side of the fire until strongly flavored, andnot be allowed to boil for more than two or three minutes. Sweeten it with three ounces of fine sugar in lumps, and when this is dissolved, strain, and mix the milk with half a pint of cream; then stir the whole gradually to the well-beaten yolks of six fresh eggs, and thicken it like boiled custard. Put it, when cold, into a deep dish; beat to a solid froth the whites of six eggs, mix them with five table-spoonfuls of pounded and sifted sugar, and spread them evenly over the custard, which should be set immediately into a moderate oven, baked half an hour, and served directly it is taken out. New milk, one pint; rind of one lemon; bitter almonds, five; sugar, three ounces; cream, half pint; yolks of eggs, six; frothed whites of eggs, six; sifted sugar, five table-spoonfuls; baked, half an hour.

ITALIANCREAM.—Mix one pint of rich cream with half pint of milk; sweeten it to your taste; add two gills of Madeira wine; one gill of rose-water; beat these ingredients thoroughly; dissolve in boiling water one and a half ounce of isinglass; strain it through a napkin or sieve, and stir it into the cream; fill the moulds, and when firm, turn out.

ALMONDCREAM.—Boil one quart of cream with a grated nutmeg, a blade or two of mace, a bit of lemon-peel, and sugar to your taste; then blanch one-quarter of a pound of almonds, and beat them very fine with a table-spoonful of rose-water or orange-flower water; beat well the whites of nine eggs and strain them to the almonds; beat them together and rub them well through a coarse hair-sieve; mix it with the cream; set it on the fire, and stir it all one way until it almost boils; pour it into a bowl and stir it till cold. Put it into cups or glasses and send it to table.

CREME A LAVANILLE.—Boil one ounce of isinglass in a pint of milk for ten minutes, taking care it does not stick to the bottom of the stewpan. Put into it half a stick of vanilla; cover it down, and let it stand till nearly cold. Beat up the yolks of five eggs, mix into them six ounces of pounded sugar, put these into a stewpan; take the vanilla out of the milk, which add to the eggs, mix them well, and stir the custard over the fire till it thickens, but do not let it boil. Strain it into a bowl; when nearly cold, add a glass of noyeau or maraschino; keep stirring it, and when on the point of setting add three-quarters of a pint of cream well whipped; mix it well, and pour it into a mould; set it upon ice till wanted, when dip it for a moment into warm water, wipe it dry, and turn over upon a dish.Or: Boil half a stick of vanilla in a quarter of a pint of new milk until it has a very high flavor; have ready a jelly of one ounce of isinglass to a quarter of a pint of water, which mix with the milk, and one and a quarter pint of fine cream; sweeten with fine sugar, and whip until quite thick; then pour into the mould and set it in a cool place.Or: Pound thoroughly with loaf-sugar a quarter of a stick of vanilla, sift it, taking care that the vanilla is passed through the sieve; whip a pint of cream; add the vanilla, sugar, and half an ounce of dissolved isinglass; pour into a mould.

CREME AUMARASQUIN.—Prepare a cream as theCrême à la Vanille, adding a quarter ounce more isinglass, and substituting maraschino for vanilla.

THE SICK ROOM AND NURSERY.

DECOCTION OFSARSAPARILLA.—Take four ounces of the root, slice it down, put the slices into four pints of water, and simmer for four hours. Take out the sarsaparilla and beat it into a mash; put it into the liquor again, and boil down to two pints; then strain and cool the liquor. Dose—a wineglassful three times a day. Use—to purify the blood after a course of mercury; or, indeed, whenever any taint is given to the constitution, vitiating the blood, and producing eruptive affections.

TOCUREBOILS.—The leaven of gingerbread placed on the boil, and left there until it bursts, has been found to be a good remedy. When the matter is removed, place some more leaven on the part. Another, and perhaps easier mode, is the application of the rough side of the nettle-geranium leaf todrawthe boil, and the smooth side to be applied tohealit.

CURE FOR ADRYCOUGH.—Take of powdered gum-arabic, half an ounce; liquorice-juice, half an ounce. Dissolve the gum first in warm water, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, then add of paregoric two drachms; syrup of squills, one drachm. Cork all in a bottle, and shake well. Take one teaspoonful when the cough is troublesome.

MEDICALEFFECTS OFHOTWATER.—In bruises, hot water is most efficacious, both by means of insertion and fomentation in removing pain, and totally preventing discoloration and stiffness. It has the same effect after a blow. It should be applied as quickly as possible, and as hot as it can be borne. Insertion in hot water will cure that troublesome and very painful thing called a whitlow. The efficacy of hot water in preventing the ill effects of fatigue is too well known to require notice.

CURE FORTOOTHACHE.—Dr. Blake recommends two drachms of alum, to be dissolved in seven drachms of sweet spirits of nitre; a piece of lint, or a small piece of sponge, to be dipped in the solution and applied to the tooth.

STING OF ABEE.—Apply sal eratus wet. It is said to be an excellent cure.

EARACHEmay be relieved by dropping a little sweet oil and laudanum, warm, into the ear, and applying hot salt in flannel bags, so as to keep the part constantly warm. For sore throat, a gargle of alum and water will frequently prove of relief at the early stage of the disease.

MACASSAROIL.—Common oil, three quarts; spirit of wine, half a pint; cinnamon-powder, three ounces; bergamot, two ounces. Heat them together in a large pipkin; then remove it from the fire and add four small pieces of alkanet-root, keeping it closely covered for several hours. Let it then be filtered through a funnel lined with filtering-paper.

WASH FORSUNBURN.—Take two drachms of borax, one drachm of Roman alum, one drachm of camphor, half an ounce of sugar-candy, and a pound of ox-gall. Mix, and stir well for ten minutes or so, and repeat this stirring three or four times a day for a fortnight, till it appears clear and transparent. Strain through blotting-paper, and bottle up for use.

TOREMOVESUPERFLUOUSHAIR.—Lime, two ounces; carbonate of potash, four ounces; charcoal-powder, two drachms. Make up into a paste with warm water, and apply to the part, which must be previously shaved close. When completely dry, wash it off with warm water.

WASH FOR THEHAIR.—Olive oil, half an ounce; oil of rosemary, one drachm; strong hartshorn, two drachms; rose-water, half a pint. Add the rose-water by degrees, otherwise it will not amalgamate.

TODYE THESKINOLIVE.—Use walnut-juice mixed with a small quantity of Spanish anotta. The tint required may be ascertained by dipping the finger into it.

DRESS OF AMERICAN WOMEN.

Apropos of Godey's Dress-Making publications, we find the following remarks in a notice of the visitors of the Crystal Palace, at the time it was most thronged by the crowd of summer and autumn travellers. The compliment to the ladies of our own city is more noticeable, as coming from a New York writer:—

"We may here properly observe that American women would be a great deal better dressed if they would more carefully consult simplicity and sobriety in the colors and arrangement of their costumes, especially such as are worn in public places. For a ball or evening party, it is allowable to be elaborately dressed, gay and brilliant; but the spectacles of dress we have seen during our visits to the exhibition have often been the reverse of grateful to the eye. Ladies we have seen who, no doubt, fancied themselves very splendid, poor things, because they were arrayed in the hues of the rainbow—a bonnet of pink perhaps, a dress of bright blue, or of some gay changeable silk, or mantilla of yellow, and a parasol of white. We have often longed to advise such unlucky persons to go to their hotel, and put on the neat and appropriate travelling-dress they had discarded for this horrible finery. Let our fair readers then be aware that the well-dressed lady is the one who appears in the street, or in public places, in the fewest, simplest, and least conspicuous colors, choosing, of course, such of the neutral hues as are most suited to her complexion, and having every part of her attire of the most scrupulous fit, neatness, and propriety.

"Forperfect taste, the Parisian is unrivalled, and you will often see her dressed in a single neutral color—bonnet, dress, cloak, and gloves nearly the same shade. Next to her in the art of dress is the Philadelphia Quakeress, who has discarded the awkward and angular forms of costume prescribed by her sect, but adheres to its simple and sober colors. No class of American women are so well dressed in the street, and, indeed, no other class of women in the world are dressed better, save only the ladies of Paris, who matchless in taste, and perfect in the most refined science of costume."

A BIT OF SHOPPING GOSSIP.

"On dress, of course," perhaps you say—a safer subject for gossip than the reputation of one's neighbors; but everybody knows shopping is considered a legitimate amusement, from the good substantial purchases of the farmer's wife, who exchanges butter and cheese for her teas and cottons, to the wife of the Fifth Avenue millionaire, whose bill at Stewart's for a single year would purchase the homestead for which the farmer pays by the sweat of brow. Let us see how they manage this feminine accomplishment on the other side of the water.

"When you go to buy gloves in Paris, a young lady not only knows what size you wear by intuition, but actually tries on a pair, putting them on you with her pliant fingers, and, if the glove does not fit, takes it off and throws it by! And you are told what colors to wear in the street—what in the evening; and white kids are never worn here, except to balls. Gloves for evening are made with two and three buttons at the wrist, and never have any kind of lace or trimmings at the top.

"Now, as to prices, I find everything a little dearer here than in New York; a bonnet, for instance, without feathers or flowers, costs from 90 to 100f.; a velvet cloak 350, 400, or 500f.; a simple headdress 50f. I suppose there are common stores, where articles are cheap; but who wants to come to Paris and buy such things as one sees in Canal Street or the Bowery, at home?

"The embroideries are so exquisite! One never sees real Parisian needle-work for sale in America; for there are certain stores which only work from orders, and not to sell to merchants, and it is in these little shops one must go to learn what French embroidery is. For pocket-handkerchiefs, there is a store in theRue de la Paix, No. 11, where nothing is sold but 'French cambric handkerchiefs, from one franc to 1,500 each,' and where they embroider your name, or 'coronet or crest,' when you have purchased of them. I findmouchoirs, embroidered in colors (blue, red, and violet), are very much used.

"You may tell the ladies at home that curls are entirely the fashion here now, and as long as the hair will admit, even to the waist (in front). There are no great puffs at the temple, such as are worn in New York. The narrow fronts to the bonnets forbid those now. Curls are termedà l'Anglais, and ladies of a certain age wear their gray curls as gracefully as young ones do their ringlets of auburn and black."

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

"MISSN. R."—Ermine and its imitations can be cleaned to look almost as well as new in New York. Any order of the kind will be attended to by the editress of the fashion department. A good imitation is well worth the trouble and expense.

"MRS.S."—For reading aloud, we would recommend "The Artist Wife," Mary Howitt; "A Year of Wedlock," Emilie Carlin; "Knicknacks;" Weld's "Life of Franklin;" anything by the "Author of the'Maiden Aunt,'" orMrs. Margaret Maitland. Two of the books she mentions are by no means suited to the family circle, one being too heavy in topic and treatment for the interest of younger members, the other a work entirely unfit for a lady's centre-table, certainly for her private reading, although she has "cut the advertisement from a popular family paper." A mother cannot be too cautious in selecting mental food for her children. We will furnish either of the above by mail.

"MISSM.," of Ohio, will find a chitchat article on the topic named in her very clever letter. We are sure she is a dutiful, affectionate daughter, and will make a good wife.

"NANNIE" can have stamped bands sent to her by mail, and will find cambric embroidery a very pleasant parlor work. By this means she will get a set, sleeves and chemisette, at one-third of the importer's price. There are but two stitches generally used for them, button-hole and the plain eyelet, or over and over stitch; the variety is produced by the different styles of arranging the eyelets.

"L. M. J." should remember Mrs. Hentz's story of the "Mob Cap." It is not well to trust the purchase of jewelry to an inexperienced person, particularly in the matter ofstones, unless they are directed to a well-known, responsible manufacturer. We recollect to have seen a set of cornelians surrounded by pearls, which proved to be glass colored by sealing-wax on the under side, a perfect imitation, but worthless in themselves. We would refer her to Bailey or Warden, in Philadelphia, Ball & Black, Tiffany, or Rait, in New York.

"MUSIDORA" has chosen rather a fanciful name for her correspondence, but we do not seek to penetrate her secret. The best remedy for the strain that she complains of is to quit reading in bed, the worst possible practice for eyes and head. If mischief is already done, we would recommend bathing them in fresh rose-water, plain cold water, or a simple mixture of camphor eight ounces, distilled water sixteen ounces. Worsted-work in the evening should also be avoided, especially any difficult pattern that requires much counting.

"ANAMATEURGARDENER" will find Saxton, Fulton Street, New York, to have the best works on the subject. With regard to the economy of a kitchen garden, it is a matter of doubt still to our own minds. At any rate, there is a great pleasure in having fresh vegetables, sweet peas, and corn, and unwilted cucumbers, that have not lost their flavor by lying half of a week in market.

"M. S."—The "Musical Gift" contains all of Jullien's music, simply arranged. Price one dollar, and the postage is but a trifle, as the binding is very simple. As she wishes it for a person not very far advanced, we think this would be better than buying difficult arrangements, separately, at fifty cents a piece.

FASHIONABLE BONNETS,

FROM THE CELEBRATED ESTABLISHMENT OF THOMAS WHITE AND CO., NO. 41 SOUTH SECOND STREET, PHILA.

(See Cuts in front of Book.)

No.1.—Opera Bonnet.—Material, white tulle; face, pointed satin wire, wreath of pink satin pipings around the front; rows of pink pipings, edged with white blonde lace. Trimming of green crape leaves; face trimming composed of bouquet of rosebuds and mazarine blue flowers; strings on the left side, with bouquet loops.

No.2.—Spring Fancy Bonnet.—Material, lilacglacésilk; pointed edge, with blonde lace fall. Trimming, tulleruches, intermingled with violets. Face trimming, lilac and white flowers.

No.3.—English Straw Bonnet.—Trimming, white flowers, mixed with a bouquet of rosebuds and green plaid ribbon. Face trimming, wreath of the same. Strings same as in No. 1.

No.4.—Miss's Flat.—Material, whiteglacésilk; front edge, blocks of wire covered with tulle. Trimming, half wreath of white flowers; ribbon carried across the crown, finished with bows at each side.

CHITCHAT UPON PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS for THE JUVENILES.

Taking always as our motto that comfort and simplicity are the first principles of dress for children, we have, like a careful mother, to consider the spring outfit of the little ones, a task which many mothers dread, because they have not the tact to manage it rightly. In the first place, comfort cannot be insured without cleanliness, another of our previous axioms, and here, as in an infant's wardrobe, it is best to choose plenty, rather than fineness or elaboration, if both are not to be had, particularly in the matter of underclothing, which would form a separate chapter by itself.

For a little girl just emerging from babyhood, the change is almost insensible; but very few mothers know what to do with a boy under similar circumstances. The present styles are more available than the little close cloth suit of jacket and trousers, so long in fashion, transforming the little urchin into the semblance of a monkey in his hand-organ costume. All mothers have reason to bless the invention, or rather the revival of sacques—for the prettiest, and at the same time most comfortable and convenient summer dress we can recommend for boys from two years old to five, is a loose sacque, girt, by a belt, over white linen jean drawers or "pataloons," as the young gentlemen will be apt to call them.

We prefer the sack buttoning on the shoulder, with short sleeves, and rather full in the skirt, reaching a little above the knee. It may be made of any material—for spring, cashmere or mousseline de laine, plain colors or small plaids—brown Holland, with an edging of linen bobbin sewed on flat in two or three rows, as the weather grows milder, and finally, for summer heats, cambric in solid colors, as blue, buff, pink, or green, also very prettily finished by rows of bobbin or coronation braid. Needlework scalloping is also a suitable finish. Nothing could be more simple or inexpensive. Plaid ginghams might also be made up to look well, with pearl, linen, or porcelain buttons on the shoulders. There are porcelain buttons, as most of our readers know, with edges of different shades, pink, purple, etc., that will match nicely. The thin sacques might be low in the neck, with short sleeves; for a thicker material, as cashmere de bege, or mousseline, they should be high in the throat, with a narrow cambric ruffle or edge basted in the neck.

The drawers are short, coming a little below the knee, and not very wide. For ourselves, we prefer them finished with a plain hem, about an inch in width, but it is much the fashion to have a ruffle of twice that depth, of embroidered cambric flouncing, double the trouble to make and keep in order, of course. They are slightly full on the hip, opening on each side, trousers fashion, and gathered into a waistband, in turn buttoned on a plain low-necked waist, like the lining of a frock body. Of course, if circumstances will not admit of the care and washing necessary for white clothes, the judgment of the economical mother can substitute any suitable material for the white linen. Belts are worn of morocco, or broad silk, and linen belting—a kind of galloon—with brass buckles of different styles. They should be loose and low on the hip, to give the figure grace and freedom of movement. This dress has, at least, the merit of convenience and simplicity. Pinafores are, of course, indispensable, whether of bird's eye, or brown linen. They are made very much in sacque fashion at present, the sleeves being long or short, as the health of the child or the season demands. Many belt the pinafores over the drawers and waist we have described, without anything else beneath, in warm weather.

Straw hats are, of course, the most suitable covering for the head, and there are an infinite variety to be found at Genin's and Oakford's the present spring, from the costly Leghorn, with its snowy plumes, to the simple braids of China pearl, or even coarser varieties, the brims varying in width. The bands are of Mantua ribbon, white or green straw and galloons. Straw caps are still worn, but are not so comfortable, as they afford very little shade to the eyes or neck. They are more intended for boys from five to ten.

Fig. 1.

Fig. 1.

Fig. 1.

Fig. 1 is a sacque of a more ornamental character than that we have described, and is intended for a little girl's out of door dress. It is of white cambric, trimmed with embroidered flouncing, and may be worn with or without a sacque. Of course, it is calculated for weather several degrees warmer than March; but a spring wardrobe includes summer garments as well. Little coats may be made of nankeen, dimity, or cambric, with a rather full body and round cape coming to the waist, and are very much in favor the coming season. If of nankeen, the trimming is a hem headed with rows of bobbin, plain linen, or coronation braid; if dimity or cambric, the flouncing as given in the cut is much used, or wide cambric edging.

Fig. 2.

Fig. 2.

Fig. 2.

Fig. 2 is a walking-dress for a little girl of three or four years, and is considered very simple and childlike. It is of a light plain cashmere, any shade that will suit the complexion of the young wearer. The skirt has two broad folds, or they may be imitated by two rows of trimming, a simple braid, galloon, or gimp. The waist is plain, with a basque opening on the hips; a cross piece is made to imitate a tiny pelerine, when worn on the street. The usual objection to a fashionable costume—overloading of ornament—cannot be urged against this extremely neat dress.

Fig. 3 is still another style for a child of the same age; it is the simple infant's waist, with a basque and sleeves of cambric embroidery. The waist has alternate rows of plain plaits and a narrow puffing; it may have the same effect if plaits and three narrow tucks alternate, and can be more easily done up. The skirt is of plain cambric, with a deep hem. The dress without the basque, and with an elongated skirt, is very suitable for an infant's wardrobe. A belt of insertion takes the place of the trimming on the hip.

Fig. 3.

Fig. 3.

Fig. 3.

For the street, children of this age wear drawn bonnets of white or blue silk, of a very simple style, or a delicate straw braid, with arucheof silk lace or blonde encircling the face. Flats of straw and Leghorn will be worn, as the past season, with bows and flowing ends of white ribbon, or the addition of a white plume, in some cases. Satin ribbon is much used. Sacques, coats, and sylphides of dotted, cross-barred, and plain Swiss muslin, cambric, or summer silks, are used for surcoats. Fine printed lawns, French chintzes, brilliantes, cambrics, etc., are the favorite dress materials. Checks of cashmere, mousseline, silk, and French gingham are very pretty for spring wear. Gaiters, or morocco slippers, with a strap around the ankle, and white stockings; pantalettes are still worn rather high.

FASHION.

Transcriber notes:P.195. Music treble bar 5, note should be (g d)8 count, not 4.P.195. First 'Pop', bass, '(c e a)4\fermata' should be '(c e a)8\fermata', changed.P.202. '...alities of rags', changed to 'qualities of rags'.P.204. 'tranferred' changed to 'transferred'.P.278. 'and efficent' changed 'efficent' to 'efficient'.Fixed various punctuation.

Transcriber notes:

P.195. Music treble bar 5, note should be (g d)8 count, not 4.

P.195. First 'Pop', bass, '(c e a)4\fermata' should be '(c e a)8\fermata', changed.

P.202. '...alities of rags', changed to 'qualities of rags'.

P.204. 'tranferred' changed to 'transferred'.

P.278. 'and efficent' changed 'efficent' to 'efficient'.

Fixed various punctuation.


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