FOOTNOTES:

No. 1.

The front hair is parted horizontally on each side of the forehead into three distinct divisions, each of which is turned back and forms a roll. Theserouleauxmay be made either of the hair alone or by rolling it on small silk cushions, covered with hair-colored silk. In front, they are divided bybandeauxof Roman pearls.

No. 2.

No. 2 is the same headdress at the back, the hair being entwined with the pearls very low on the neck, and fastened by two pearl-headed pins, of an antique bodkin pattern.

No. 3 is still a different style, more in accordance with the taste of our grandmothers, especially the small flat curls on the temples. A light plume is entwined with the Grecian braid at the back of the head.

No. 3.

We give these, as we have said before, more from their novelty than grace. For ordinary wear, plain bands on each side the temple, drawn out wide where the size and shape of the head admit of it, are principally seen. The back hair is formed into a French twist flat to the head, around which the rest is disposed in a close circle, either twisted, roped, or braided, leaving the smooth twist displayed in the centre. "Roping" the hair is done by dividing it in two equal parts, and twisting one over the other, a kind of round braid, taking its name from the resemblance it bears when smoothly managed to a hempen rope or cable.

Speaking of which reminds us that hair ornaments were never more worn than now. Several very beautiful stands of designs have been on exhibition in the Crystal Palace, some of them quite plain, suitable for mourning, others richly set with gold, enamel, and even precious stones. Among the more costly we have described in our foreign correspondence, is a set recently completed in Paris for a foreign princess. It consists of a necklace, bracelet, and ear-rings. The hair is said to be that of a celebrated Spanish beauty, very dark, and wrought into small globes resembling beads of various size. These globes are transparent, and are wrought in a style of such exquisite delicacy that they seem to be made of the finest lace. They are clustered together like drooping bunches of grapes, and between each bunch there is a small tulip formed of diamonds. The ear-rings consist of pendent drops, formed of hair beads, with tops consisting of diamond tulips. Hair ornaments similar to these are made with pearls, gold, or silver, in place of the diamonds; fortunately for people who like tasteful jewelry, and arenotforeign princesses.

Two bracelets, made for a wealthy English lady, are also described, and, as there is a mania for this description of ornaments, we copy it for those ordering hair-work from a distance, or who are curious in these matters. One, made of very fair, soft, glossy hair, is in the form of a serpent,having the rings on its back, distinctly marked by a peculiar method of plaiting the hair. This serpent is represented as creeping gracefully on a long reed leaf, made of green enamel in natural shades, the head being studded with emeralds. The other bracelet consists of a flat band, formed of plaited hair of various shades, and the shades so disposed as to intersect each other transversely, forming a kind of chequered pattern. Five medallions are affixed to this band, each opening by a spring in the manner of a watch-case, and within are a name and date, or any inscription appropriate to those whose tresses have formed the memento. For plain bracelets, there is the round elastic band, fastened by a broad gold band or link, to which is attached a single medallion, inclosing hair too short to be braided. Two of these bands, twisted or roped together, make a heavier bracelet. There is another, inclosing a steel spring, having the head or tail of a serpent in gold, and thus appearing to coil about the wrist; a common device, but one we do not much fancy. Brooches are made in the form of knots, bows, clasps, etc. Plain flat rings, with a gold band just wide enough for initials, or fastened by a tiny gold knot or buckle, are great favorites, and make a simple, tasteful love-token. Pendents for bracelets or brooches, in every shape, are worn, and tipped with gold, lyres, harps, baskets, acorns, etc. etc., all of fairy-like delicacy and proportions. Ear-rings in globes, as described above, acorns, harps, baskets, etc., are also worn. The Swiss style, once thought so tasteful—flat flowers, feathers, landscapes, and funeral urns, pictured on a white ground, and set as cameos—are almost entirely out of date.

The changes of the present month in outside garments are by no means important. More furs are seen of the usual variety, from ermine and sable down to the equally comfortable Siberian or gray squirrel and fitch. The tippets are giving place almost entirely to the large round capes of twenty years ago; muffs are still small, and cuffs worn as much as ever. Velvet and cloth circular, or Talma cloaks, are again in favor, of several new varieties in trimming. Some of them consist of two and three capes, one above the other, like the horseman's cloak capes, once so fashionable for gentlemen. The favorite trimming which has replaced the narrow velvet ribbons of last year is broad satin galoon of different patterns. Beaver bonnets for children, at Oakford's and Genin's, are trimmed principally with satin bands and plaited satin ribbons, making a glossy contrast. We consider beaver as most suitable for the little people. Satin and velvet are the favorite materials for ladies' hats, and close plumes will be worn as much as ever, feathers being used in inside trimming for the brim, mixed with knots of ribbon.

DESCRIPTION OF CHILDREN'S DRESSES.

(See Cuts in front of Book.)

No. 1.—Boy's skirt and jacket of dark cashmere, the latter open, with a front in imitation of a vest, of pale buff kerseymere. Plain linen collar and undersleeves, with a small ribbon necktie.

No. 2.—Street coat of dark green pelisse cloth, trimmed with velvet to correspond, suitable for a boy from three to six years old.

No. 3.—Little girl's dress, with basque and tunic skirt, trimmed with scalloped frills of the same material. Short pantalettes, with narrow tucks.

No. 4.—Dress and loose sacque jacket, of embroidered fawn-colored cashmere; the sleeves have a deep cuff, and, for cold weather, a plain plaited muslin chemisette may be worn to protect the neck.Fashion.

Milk of Almondsis used to bathe the face, and is made thus: Bruise some sweet almonds in a mortar, and add water by slow degrees, in the proportion of a pint to twenty or thirty almonds; put to this a piece of sugar, to prevent the separation of the oil from the water, rubbing assiduously. Pass the whole through a flannel, and perfume it with orange-flower water.

Tooth Powder.—Mix together equal parts of powdered chalk and charcoal, and add a small quantity of Castile soap. These produce a powder which will keep the teeth beautifully white.

A Cooling Wash for the Hands and Face.—A correspondent writes: "The following has been used in my family some years: An equal quantity of ammonia and soap liniment, one teaspoonful in the water."

Warts.—These are got rid of in various ways. Some tie a thread round their base; but a better plan is to have a piece of thick paper, with a hole cut in it, the size of the wart; this is put over the wart, and then every morning a drop or two of the strongest acetic acid should be dropped through the hole upon the wart. If this do not succeed, dropping oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) in the same way will answer.

How to make Transparent Soap.—Equal parts of tallow soap, made perfectly dry, and spirits of wine, are to be put into a copper still, which is plunged into a water-bath, and furnished with its capital and refrigeratory. The heat applied to effect the solution should be as slight as possible, to avoid evaporating too much of the alcohol. The solution being effected, it must be suffered to settle; and, after a few hours repose, the clear supernatant liquid is drawn off into tin frames of the form desired for the cakes of soap. These bars do not acquire their proper degree of transparency till after a few weeks' exposure to dry air. The soap is colored with strong alcoholic solution of ochre for the rose tint, and turmeric for the deep yellow.

To make Court-plaster.—Stretch tightly some thin black or flesh-colored silk in a wooden frame, securing it with packthread or small tacks. Then go all over it with a soft bristle brush, dipped in dissolved isinglass or strong gum-arabic water. Give it two or three coats, letting it dry between each. Then go several times over it with white of egg.

To clean Foul Sponge.—When very foul, wash them in dilute tartaric acid, rinsing them afterwards in water: it will make them very soft and white. Be careful to dilute the acid well.

To keep Silk.—Silk articles should not be kept folded in white paper, as the chloride of lime used in bleaching the paper will probably impair the color of the silk. Brown or blue paper is better—the yellowish smooth India paper is best of all. Silk intended for a dress should not be kept in the house long before it is made up, as lying in the folds will have a tendency to impair its durability by causing it to cut or split, particularly if the silk has been thickened by gum. We knew an instance of a very elegant and costly thread-lace veil being found on its arrival from France cut into squares (and therefore destroyed) by being folded over a pasteboard card. A white satin dress should be pinned up in blue paper, with coarse brown paper outside, sewed together at the edges.

THE LATEST FASHIONS.

[See larger version]

FOOTNOTES:[1]The "Nation" newspaper, a short time after its establishment, was styled by that first of critics and most literal of translators—John Gibson Lockhart—"a startling phenomenon"![2]Complete sets of the "Nation" sell to this day for no less a sum than $30, or £6 sterling.

[1]The "Nation" newspaper, a short time after its establishment, was styled by that first of critics and most literal of translators—John Gibson Lockhart—"a startling phenomenon"!

[2]Complete sets of the "Nation" sell to this day for no less a sum than $30, or £6 sterling.

Transcriber notes:Music. First line, flat in bass moved to correct position.Line 6, fixed flat position (no changed determined).P.8.'fill' changed to 'will'.P.10.'market' changed to 'marked'.P.28.'May be,' on another copy.P.34.'surburban' changed to 'suburban'.P.39.Bottom of page 39. 'Next draw'.P.40.text is 'ones all round'.P.44.'smtiten' changed to 'smitten'.P.48.'the had' changed to 'she had'.P.48.'determin d' changed to 'determined'.P.53.'Khorsabad' changed to 'Khorsobad'.P.69.Illustration 'Fig.' is Fig. 1.', changed.P.87.'oxgyen' changed to 'oxygen'.Fixed various punctuation.

Transcriber notes:

Music. First line, flat in bass moved to correct position.

Line 6, fixed flat position (no changed determined).

P.8.'fill' changed to 'will'.P.10.'market' changed to 'marked'.P.28.'May be,' on another copy.P.34.'surburban' changed to 'suburban'.P.39.Bottom of page 39. 'Next draw'.P.40.text is 'ones all round'.P.44.'smtiten' changed to 'smitten'.P.48.'the had' changed to 'she had'.P.48.'determin d' changed to 'determined'.P.53.'Khorsabad' changed to 'Khorsobad'.P.69.Illustration 'Fig.' is Fig. 1.', changed.P.87.'oxgyen' changed to 'oxygen'.

Fixed various punctuation.

Back to Index Next