FOOTNOTES:

THEtreasure that I render youSurpasses any mine of gold;'Tis clear my sterling value, too,Is far too precious to be sold.My current stock your wants supplies,Your draughts on me I liquidate,Relieving your necessities,And keeping solvent your estate.In my transactions, though I'm deep,Still truth is e'er ascribed to me;And well continually I keepWith folks who use me prudently.In banks, I never do intendMy "floating capital" to trust;On firmer footing I depend,And what I am would you be—just.

THEtreasure that I render youSurpasses any mine of gold;'Tis clear my sterling value, too,Is far too precious to be sold.My current stock your wants supplies,Your draughts on me I liquidate,Relieving your necessities,And keeping solvent your estate.In my transactions, though I'm deep,Still truth is e'er ascribed to me;And well continually I keepWith folks who use me prudently.In banks, I never do intendMy "floating capital" to trust;On firmer footing I depend,And what I am would you be—just.

THEtreasure that I render youSurpasses any mine of gold;'Tis clear my sterling value, too,Is far too precious to be sold.

THEtreasure that I render you

Surpasses any mine of gold;

'Tis clear my sterling value, too,

Is far too precious to be sold.

My current stock your wants supplies,Your draughts on me I liquidate,Relieving your necessities,And keeping solvent your estate.

My current stock your wants supplies,

Your draughts on me I liquidate,

Relieving your necessities,

And keeping solvent your estate.

In my transactions, though I'm deep,Still truth is e'er ascribed to me;And well continually I keepWith folks who use me prudently.

In my transactions, though I'm deep,

Still truth is e'er ascribed to me;

And well continually I keep

With folks who use me prudently.

In banks, I never do intendMy "floating capital" to trust;On firmer footing I depend,And what I am would you be—just.

In banks, I never do intend

My "floating capital" to trust;

On firmer footing I depend,

And what I am would you be—just.

14.

I'Mable, by the aid of tea,A banquet to support;And when I'm following the sea,Retain my ship in port:But when effaced, then must I beFictitious in report.

I'Mable, by the aid of tea,A banquet to support;And when I'm following the sea,Retain my ship in port:But when effaced, then must I beFictitious in report.

I'Mable, by the aid of tea,A banquet to support;And when I'm following the sea,Retain my ship in port:But when effaced, then must I beFictitious in report.

I'Mable, by the aid of tea,

A banquet to support;

And when I'm following the sea,

Retain my ship in port:

But when effaced, then must I be

Fictitious in report.

15.

I'Mgood for nothing, save when kept,As many a soul can tell;And should exist conceal'd, except'Gainst honor I rebel.The happiness of many a heartWill oft depend on me;Its ease, alas! will oft depart,Whene'er I cease to be.

I'Mgood for nothing, save when kept,As many a soul can tell;And should exist conceal'd, except'Gainst honor I rebel.The happiness of many a heartWill oft depend on me;Its ease, alas! will oft depart,Whene'er I cease to be.

I'Mgood for nothing, save when kept,As many a soul can tell;And should exist conceal'd, except'Gainst honor I rebel.

I'Mgood for nothing, save when kept,

As many a soul can tell;

And should exist conceal'd, except

'Gainst honor I rebel.

The happiness of many a heartWill oft depend on me;Its ease, alas! will oft depart,Whene'er I cease to be.

The happiness of many a heart

Will oft depend on me;

Its ease, alas! will oft depart,

Whene'er I cease to be.

CHEAPCONTRIVANCEFORFILTERING.—A very cheap and good contrivance for filtering is to take a large garden flower-pot, and lay in the bottom a piece of sponge, so as to cover the hole. Upon this put a few smooth, clean pebbles, to keep the sponge in its place, and fill up the pot, to within two or three inches of the brim, with a mixture of one part of powdered charcoal to two parts of fine sharp sand. Then cover the top of the pot with a piece of clean white flannel, tied tightly round the rim with a twine, but so as to sink or sway down in the centre. Set the flower-pot in a pan or tub, and pour the water into the flannel, letting it filter through the charcoal, &c.; and, by the time it has passed through the sponge, and come out at the bottom, it will be clear.

TOCLEANSEATEAKETTLEFROMFUR.—Heat the kettle rapidly over a fire of shavings, having previously made it quite dry. The expansion will separate the fur from the metal, and it may then be easily removed.

TOREMOVESTAINSOFACIDS, &C.—Stains caused by acids may be removed by tying some pearlash up in the stained part; scrape some soap in soft cold water, and boil the linen till the stain is gone. Many stains may be removed by dipping the linen in some sour buttermilk, and drying it in a hot sun, washing it afterwards in cold water. It may be found necessary to repeat this once or twice.

TOTAKEOUTIRONMOULD.—Wet the ironmould with water, and then lay the linen on a hot water-plate and put on the part a little essential salt of lemons. When it becomes dry, wet it again, and renew the process, being particular that the plate is boiling hot. Dip the linen into a good deal of water, and wash it as soon as the stain is removed, to prevent any damage from the acid.

TOPRESERVESTEELPENS.—Metallic pens may be preserved from rusting by throwing into the bottle containing the ink a few nails, or broken pieces of steel pens, if not varnished. The corrosive action of the acid which the ink contains is expended on the iron so introduced, and will not therefore affect the pen.

FRENCHPOLISH.—To one pint of spirits of wine add a quarter of an ounce of gum copal, a quarter of an ounce of gum arabic, and one ounce of shellac. Let your gums be well bruised, and sifted through a piece of muslin. Put the spirits and the gums together in a vessel that can be safely corked; place them near a warm stove, and frequently shake them. In two or three days they will be dissolved; strain it through a piece of muslin, and keep it tightly corked for use.

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC MANGE.

[Fourth article.]

CHARLOTTERUSSE.—Line the bottom of a plain round mould with Savoy biscuits, placing them close together in a star or some device; line thesides, placing the biscuits edgewise, to make them form a compact wall; put the mould upon ice; have ready aCrême au Marasquin, adding a glass of brandy. Fill the mould as it stands on the ice, and leave it till the time of serving, when turn it over upon the dish and take off the mould.

CHARLOTTERUSSE.An easy way.—Mix with the yolks of four eggs a quarter of a pound of sugar pounded fine, and add to this half a pint of new milk. Put it over the fire till it begins to thicken like custard, but do not let it boil; then add half a pint of very stiff calves-foot jelly. Strain it through a napkin; put in a pan placed on ice, a pint of very rich cream, flavored or not, as you like, and whip it until it looks like float; pour the cream into another dish, and put the custard in the pan on the ice; stir it on the ice with a paddle until it becomes thick like jelly; then add the cream very lightly. The mixture should look like light sponge-cake before it is baked. A round tin pan must be prepared with sponge-cake, called ladies' fingers, placed around and at the bottom very evenly and closely; pour the charlotte in it, and place it on the ice till wanted. When wanted, put a round dish or plate on it, and turn it out. The bottom will then be at the top—and no cake at the bottom.

CREAMHASTY.—Take a gallon of milk from the cow, set it on the fire, and when it begins to rise take it off the fire, skim off all the cream and put it on a plate, then set the skillet on the fire again and repeat the skimming till your plate is full of cream; put to it some orange flower and sugar, and serve it.

CREAM"AUNATUREL."—Take some thin cream, mind and let it be fresh, and put it in a bowl on ice to cool; add to it powdered sugar, and serve it.

CREAM,TOKEEP.—Cream already skimmed may be kept twenty-four hours, if scalded without sugar; and, by adding to it as much powdered lump sugar as will make it sweet, it will keep good two days in a cool place.

CURDSANDCREAM.—With about half a tablespoonful of rennet, turn two quarts of milk just from the cow; drain off the whey, and fill a mould with the curd; when it has stood an hour or two, turn it out. Strew colored comfits over it, sweeten some cream, mix grated nutmeg with it, and pour it round the curd.

CURDSANDCREAM,ASINSCOTLAND.—Put two quarts of new milk into the dish in which it is to be served, and turn it with a teaspoonful of rennet; when the curd has come, serve it with the cream in a separate dish.

NAPLESCURD.—Put into a quart of new milk a stick of cinnamon, boil it a few minutes, take out the cinnamon, and stir in eight well-beaten eggs and a tablespoonful of white wine; when it boils again, strain it through a sieve; beat the curd in a basin, together with about half an ounce of butter, two tablespoonfuls of orange-flower water, and pounded sugar sufficient to sweeten it. Put it into a mould for two hours before it is sent to table. White wine, sugar, and cream may be mixed together and poured round the curd, or it may be served in a sauce tureen.

THE SICK ROOM AND NURSERY.

CUREFORSQUINTING.—Squinting frequently arises from the unequal strength of the eyes, the weaker eye being turned away from the object, to avoid the fatigue of exertion. Cases of squinting of long standing have often been cured by covering the stronger eye, and thereby compelling the weaker one to exertion.

SCRATCHES.—Trifling as scratches often seem, they ought never to be neglected, but should be covered and protected, and kept clean and dry until they have completely healed. If there is the least appearance of inflammation, no time should be lost in applying a large bread and water poultice, or hot flannels repeatedly applied, or even leeches in good numbers may be put on at some distance from each other.

THE HOUSEHOLD.

ITis a long time ago since we rejoiced in the possession of a new spelling-book, with a bright blue board cover (so liable to get the corners chipped off), and learned from its fascinating pages that ever-to-be-remembered lesson for the household—

"Whatever brawls disturb the street,There should be peace at home."

"Whatever brawls disturb the street,There should be peace at home."

"Whatever brawls disturb the street,There should be peace at home."

"Whatever brawls disturb the street,

There should be peace at home."

What else of profit we gleaned from its double-columned pages, our readers, or perhaps our printers, are the best judges; but the poetic bit of family government, though faded with years, comes out now and then feebly in remembrance, as sympathetic inks brighten by firelight. It is at present recalled by a subject suggestive for this month's chat, "the duties of an elder daughter at home," or, as we would have it read, of "daughters at home." The mother of a large family has had demands on her time, health, and spirits in their infancy, which they cannot understand until they come to be situated in like manner, but certain it is, and as the daughters grew up around her, she naturally looks to them to aid her in the cares and responsibilities of the home.

Of course, to all well-ordered governments there must be one head, the centre of all action; but inferior officers can ofttimes take the whole burden of petty detail. The silver, the mending, the wash, must be seen to, and here it might be a daughter's pleasant duty to see her mother's instructions faithfully obeyed. How much better this, than adding to the general discomfort and disorderly careless habits, and inconsideration or rudeness to the servants.

Then as regards her brothers—the daughter of the household has much to think of: to be considerate for their comfort, to respect their feelings, to care for their amusement, to enter into their plans and pursuits. How many a brother is driven to seek idle, expensive, and too often vicious company from the lack of such sympathy at home! And yet one so often hears—"brothers are so troublesome"—or, "we can't practice just to play for a brother"—or, "the boys have their company, and I have mine." The taste may not always be congenial, but good feeling and gentle manners will accomplish far more than a sarcastic repulse.

Thus, in course of time, the stepping-stones safely passed, the girl becomes the young wife—housekeeper—mother—fitted for the duties of her station, and therefore contented with it, finding nothing harsh or irksome in domestic routine, and satisfied with the pleasures and enjoyments of home. Far more likely to do so than she who leads a careless, idle life as a girl—to become a fretful, discontented wife, or neglectful mother.

Our Daily Paths! with thorns or flow'rsWe can at will bestrew them;What bliss would gild the passing hours,If we but rightly knew them!The way of life is rough at best,But briers yield the roses,So that which leads to joy and restThe hardest path discloses.The weeds that oft we cast away,Their simple beauty scorning,Would form a wreath of purest rayAnd prove the best adorning.So in our daily paths, 'twere wellTo call each gift a treasure,However slight, where love can dwellWith life-renewing pleasure!

Our Daily Paths! with thorns or flow'rsWe can at will bestrew them;What bliss would gild the passing hours,If we but rightly knew them!The way of life is rough at best,But briers yield the roses,So that which leads to joy and restThe hardest path discloses.The weeds that oft we cast away,Their simple beauty scorning,Would form a wreath of purest rayAnd prove the best adorning.So in our daily paths, 'twere wellTo call each gift a treasure,However slight, where love can dwellWith life-renewing pleasure!

Our Daily Paths! with thorns or flow'rsWe can at will bestrew them;What bliss would gild the passing hours,If we but rightly knew them!The way of life is rough at best,But briers yield the roses,So that which leads to joy and restThe hardest path discloses.

Our Daily Paths! with thorns or flow'rs

We can at will bestrew them;

What bliss would gild the passing hours,

If we but rightly knew them!

The way of life is rough at best,

But briers yield the roses,

So that which leads to joy and rest

The hardest path discloses.

The weeds that oft we cast away,Their simple beauty scorning,Would form a wreath of purest rayAnd prove the best adorning.So in our daily paths, 'twere wellTo call each gift a treasure,However slight, where love can dwellWith life-renewing pleasure!

The weeds that oft we cast away,

Their simple beauty scorning,

Would form a wreath of purest ray

And prove the best adorning.

So in our daily paths, 'twere well

To call each gift a treasure,

However slight, where love can dwell

With life-renewing pleasure!

LACES AND EMBROIDERIES.

WEpromised, in speaking of new caps, a paragraph in our fashion chat on laces; but, as that has its own material, in discussing the merits of shapes and styles, we lay our laces upon the centre-table instead.

We have now in preparation some very new and tasteful designs for chemisettes, to be worn in mourning, every one understanding that embroideries are laid aside with a black dress. For the strictest styles, plain linen, cambric, and Swiss muslin are worn; but when silks or fringed dresses are put on, fluted ruffles, edged with plain narrow lace, on collars and open sleeves, are not out of taste, or edges of needle-work in scallops and points.

Laces, or very thin muslin embroidery, will be worn this summer; cambric, whether plain or embroidered, being seen only in morning-dress. We speak to those who "dress for dinner." There is a new style of lace, the Maltese, which is very heavy and apparently durable, somewhat resembling Honiton, at about half its cost. It is very pretty for caps, as seen in our design for the month. Heavy laces are still in vogue; Valenciennes and the still more delicate and lady-like Mechlin have given place to them. There is an Irish point occasionally to be met with, the most durable of all, being of the purest linen thread. Collars, or chemisettes, and undersleeves are worn to match. Nothing is more untidy—save soiled muslins—than to see cambric sleeves and a rich lace collar, or muslin sleeves and English flouncing for a chemisette. Better to have both of plain cambric or linen.

WASHING MADE EASY.

THEtruthfulness of the "Washing-Day" song, with its disagreeable effects on the spirits and temper, has never been questioned or doubted. For ourselves, our spirits fall with the first rising of steam from the kitchen, and only reach a natural temperature when the clothes are neatly folded in the ironing-basket. If any of our club sympathize with us, they will rejoice that a better day is at hand, and consider the invention described below as full of the deepest interest to our sex as housekeepers. The one thus commented on is in use in the St. Nicholas Hotel, New York:—

"A strong wooden cylinder, four feet diameter, and four and a half feet long, is mounted on a frame, so as to be driven by a band on one end of the shaft. This shaft is hollow, with pipes so connected with it that hot or cold water, or steam, can be introduced at the option of the person in charge. The cylinder being half full of water, a door at one end is opened, and 300 to 500 pieces of clothingare thrown in, with a suitable quantity of soap, and an alkaline fluid which assists in dissolving the dirt and bleaching the fabric, so that clothes, after being washed in this manner, increase in whiteness without having the texture injured.

"When the cylinder is changed, it is put in motion by a small steam-engine, and made to revolve slowly, first one way a few revolutions, and then the other, by which the clothes are thrown from side to side, in and out, and through the water. During this operation the steam is let in through a double-mouthed pipe—somewhat of this shape, X—which has one mouth in and one mouth out of water; the steam entering the water through the immersed end, and escaping through the other, by which means it is made to pass through the clothes, completely cleansing them in fifteen or twenty minutes. The steam is now cut off, and the hot water drawn through the waste pipe, and then cold water introduced, which rinses the articles in a few more turns of the cylinder. They are now suffered to drain until the operator is ready to take them out, when they are put into the drying-machine, which runs like a millstone, and its operation may be understood by supposing that millstone to be a shallow tub, with wire network sides, against which the clothes being placed, it is put in rapid motion; the air, passing in a strong current into the top and bottom of the tub, and out of the sides, carries all the moisture with it into the outside case, from whence it runs away. The length of time requisite to dry the clothes depends upon the rapidity of the revolving tub. If it should run 3,000 revolutions a minute, five to seven minutes would be quite sufficient. When there is not sufficient steam to run the dryer with that speed, it requires double that. In washing and drying, there is nothing to injure the fabric. Ladies' caps and laces are put up in netting bags, and are not rubbed by hand or machine to chafe or tear them in the least, but are cleansed most perfectly.

"It can readily be imagined what a long line of wash-tubs would be required to wash 5,000 pieces a day, and what a big clothes-yard to dry them in; while here the work is done by four persons, who only occupy part of a basement-room, the other part being occupied by the mangle, and ironing and folding-tables. Adjoining are the airing-frames, which are hung with clothes, and then shoved into a room steam-pipe heated, when they are completely dried in a few minutes.

"Small Family Machines.—Almost the first thought, after witnessing the operation of this machine, was, can washing be done upon the same principle in small families? To our inquiries upon this point, we have received the following satisfactory information:—

"For common family use, hand-machines are made to cost from $40 to $50, with which a woman can wash fifty pieces at a time, and complete 500 in a day without laboring severely. For the purpose of washing, without driving the machinery by steam, a very small boiler will be sufficient. It is not necessary to have a head of water, as that can be found in the cylinder, which can be turned by horse or any other convenient power. The plan of cleansing clothes by steam is not a new one; but it is contended by the inventor that his process is an improvement upon all heretofore applied to that purpose."

APPLETONS'.

APPLETONS' is the very conspicuous gilt-lettered name of a large brown-stone building just opened on Broadway, New York, for the business purposes of this well-known firm. It was built originally for a public library, but was bought last spring by the present owners, and the lower story has since been fitted up for them. Henceforth, "Appletons'" will be one of the lions of Broadway.

It may not be a very flattering comparison, but one at least easily understood—what "Stewart's" is to the woman of fashion, or "Taylor's" to thegourmand, "Appletons'" is now to the student or the book fancier. The design and decorations are in perfect keeping with the business, the very windows, deep set as they are, suggesting the alcoves, with which it is lined, as in a public library. The ceiling walls are ornamented in fresco, of quiet, yet cheerful tints; fourteen Corinthian columns are the central support, and these have the effect of Sienna marble. The book-cases and shelving are of plain oak. The proportions and whole interior effect are admirable; and here are to be found everything that isbindableor readable, from superb London editions of the classics to the last new school-book, in its plain cloth cover.

A good hour's lounge would scarcely give a just idea of the united elegance and utility of the new establishment; for the curious visitor should not neglect to glance at the wholesale ware-room, occupying the warm, well-lighted basement, which has its own "exits and entrances," its own salesmen, attendants, and purchasers, and gives perhaps a more just estimate of the immense business of the firm. There is certainly nothing approaching to it in this country or in England.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

WEmust enforce upon our correspondents the necessity of beingexplicitin forwarding their addresses; for we agree with them in thinking it rather awkward for a young lady to be addressed as M. S. Jones,Esq., or a married lady to find herself suddenly divorced, and written to asMiss. But how are we to help it? How is the editor, especially in the haste and confusion of a correspondence the uninitiated cannot imagine or comprehend, to discover from internal evidence whether the said M. S. Jones is a noun masculine or feminine, or, being feminine, to decide upon her state and condition regarding the holy bonds of matrimony? Let the letter read thus, and all doubt and misdirection are at an end:—

"DEARSIR: Inclosed is $10 for the following subscription to the Lady's Book.MISSM. S. JONES,Dalton, Ohio"—

or Mrs., as the prefix may be. That agreeable young lady will not, in this case, have her feelings hurt by being addressed as Esq., and so supposed to belong to the Woman's Right party, at least; nor we be obliged to waste, to us, very valuable time, in reading letters of explanation or writing notes of apology.Not to mentionthe two postage stamps saved—a consideration; since, by Poor Richard's rule of compound interest—

"A penny saved is two pence got."

"MRS. BARNARD."—Let your children wear aprons, by all means. They are not out of fashion; but, on the contrary, new patterns are constantly being designed. See our fashion article for the present month.

"A NEWMAMMA" will find several editions of "Mother Goose" in the market. One is contained in "Harry's Ladder to Learning," published by Evans & Brittan, one of the best juveniles we know, as there are many excellent things inclosed in its covers. It can also be had separate, postage and all, for less than a quarter of a dollar. A more elaborate edition, as full of clever designs as the Christmas-pie of little Jack Horner was supposed to be of plums, is published by John Rund Smith, London, under the title of the"Nursery Rhymes of England." Also imported by Evans & Brittan.

"MISSA. B. L." can safely have her white and muslin dresses for the ensuing season made with infants' waists. If her figure is small and light, they cannot fail to be becoming; and, for quite young ladies, the style never is out of date.

"MRS. P. L.," of Darien, Geo., can have her books by package or mail. We add to our list for reading aloud, "An Attic Philosopher in Paris: being the Journal of a Happy Man," published by the Appletons. Its tone is most genial and pure, entirely free from the French sentimentality that borders on frivolity, and, at the same time, full of pathetic truths. For the children, we would particularly commend "Our Little Comfort" and "Love's Lessons," both of which are admirable.

"MRS. H."—An infant's skirt should not be over a yard in length. Of course, the petticoats should be a hem shorter, the flannel shortest of all.

"MISSLIZZIEN."—See fashion article.

"ELLEN" had better send an order for patterns, now that they are so cheap—much cheaper thanwords.

Of the work that "MRS. R." has asked our opinion as a book for the family, we must be allowed to say that we do not consider its morality to be pure, nor the sympathies it arouses womanly. Dwelling on such scenes cannot do the general good that some critics seem to expect from it. We agree with them that "ignorance is not virtue;" at the same time, there is much to be dreaded infamiliarizingthe innocent mind with the details of sin and wickedness. "To the pure, all things are pure," again urges the specious moralist; but, alas for our nature that it should be so! the seeds of impurity are to be found in every earth-born mind, only too ready to be developed. Poison the mind, the imagination, and you open the flood-gates of innumerable temptations. Only too true is the lesson of a sterner moralist—

"Vice is a monster of such frightful mien,As, to be hated, needs but to be seen;But seen too oft, familiar with its face,We first endure,then pity—then embrace."

"Vice is a monster of such frightful mien,As, to be hated, needs but to be seen;But seen too oft, familiar with its face,We first endure,then pity—then embrace."

"Vice is a monster of such frightful mien,As, to be hated, needs but to be seen;But seen too oft, familiar with its face,We first endure,then pity—then embrace."

"Vice is a monster of such frightful mien,

As, to be hated, needs but to be seen;

But seen too oft, familiar with its face,

We first endure,then pity—then embrace."

We may seem to speak warmly on the subject, and thus overstep our limits; but books that wrong, under a pretence of virtue, are worst of all to be dreaded. Our sex are more exposed to their influence than to any open temptation. Books are to us companions. They lie under our pillows, and on the empty seat beside us; they hide in our work-baskets, or under the sofa cushion, to come forth at a moment's notice; while, with men, they have but the passing notice of an idle hour.

NOTICE TO LADY SUBSCRIBERS.

Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance,the Editress of the Fashion Departmentwill hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets, dresses, jewelry, bridal cards, cake-boxes, envelopes, etc. etc., will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.

Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for the amount, and the early execution of commissions.

No order will be attended to unless the money is first received.

Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on whichmuch dependsin choice. Dress goods from Levy's or Stewart's; cloaks, mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York; bonnets from Miss Wharton's; jewelry from Bailey's or Warden's, Philadelphia, or Tiffany's, New York, if requested.

DESCRIPTION OF STEEL FASHION PLATE FOR APRIL.

Fig. 1st.—Dinner-dress of rose-colored cashmere, the flounces trimmed with velvet points of a rich dark brown; the opening in the front of the basque is made by laying the corsage back from the shoulder to the line of the waist, sloping the width gradually. Short wide sleeves trimmed to correspond. Bonnet of rose-colored taffeta ribbon, with a border and bands of pale green, tied with strings of the same. The inside has a very fullrucheof blonde, with a single damask rose placed high up on the right side.

Fig. 2d.—Plain walking-dress of mode-colored silk, the skirt entirely plain. The corsage is close and high, with a short basque, trimming of black guipure lace and velvet ribbon; the sleeves are opened on the back and forearm, trimmed to correspond. Knots of velvet ribbon close the corsage. White drawn bonnet, the brim very shallow, full trimmed, the lace having blue crape convolvulus bells, intermixed at irregular distances.

Child's dressof plain white cashmere, flounced; blue cloak of full Talma pattern. White drawn bonnet, with double wreath of daisies inside the brim.

CHITCHAT UPON NEW YORK AND PHILADELPHIA FASHIONS FOR APRIL.

The month of April with us is principally devoted to shopping; the changes of dress do not begin to be general before May, although the preparations are, of course, made at this time. The principal consideration of the month would seem to be mantillas, scarfs, etc., bonnets, and the making up of dresses.

For a large variety of styles, in the mantilla department, we are indebted to Brodie, of New York, who ranks at the head of this manufacture. In our next number, we shall give a more detailed account of his large establishment, entirely devoted to cloaks, mantillas, and scarfs. And here we are bewildered with the variety, in attempting to select for our readers.

Although velvet is not in season, strictly speaking, we must notice a scarf mantilla of royal purple, the rich and costly fabric being decorated by embroidery, the design a heavy wreath of grape leaves, purple clusters, and twining tendrils. They are shaded with exquisite art, the leaves and tendrils in different stitches, the clusters in rich raised work, the effect of which it is impossible to describe.

A bridal scarf of rich embroidery on a white ground, as pure as the bridal dress itself, is one of the next most costly importations. No other house uses so much embroidery as Brodie, and we are assured by him that the French needle-work, exquisite as it is, can be excelled in this country. His establishment alone affords employment to hundreds in this branch of female industry, through the busy seasons of the year.

The woven embroidery now so much the style, where bouquets, wreaths, etc., are brocaded on a plain ground, isbrought into service the present season. The Oriental scarf we notice, as combining richness of material and effect, with plainness of form and decoration. It has a deep border of palm leaves in bright shades, gold predominating, on a plain ground of royal purple; the heavy fringe is of the same hue. The form is the simple close-fitting mantilla scarf.

Another style, destined to become a favorite from its richness of effect, is composed of several flounces of black guipure lace on a plain silk, deep blue, green, violet, brown, etc. The lower one, much deeper than those on the body of the mantle, falls over the dress, and that next to the row which forms the upper finish follows the curve of the shoulder. There is a space between each the width of the lace, and the several rows are headed by a box-plaitedrucheof narrow black satin ribbon. Another style has bands of velvet ribbon an inch and a half in width, placed lengthwise on the scarf, the ends falling over the flounce of lace below. They are at a little distance apart, and each is encircled or edged by a narrow row of lace placed on flat, giving an effect at once elegant and novel, which it would be impossible to describe by words. These are a few of the leading spring styles; and others less costly, and in lighter fabrics, will be described in our extended notice of Mr. Brodie's establishment.

For those who do not order their mantillas and scarfs from the city direct, or who depend upon home manufacture, we would advise them to send to Demorest, 67 Canal Street, a few doors from Brodie's, for a set of patterns, and make them up according to the very accurate idea given by his styles. Here, again, we have several new varieties, the establishment also importing direct from Paris. One of very graceful shape has plaits at the back, as in the cloaks of the past season, with a tablier, or scarf front passing around and forming a deep collar on the shoulder. All the mantillas of the season, be it remarked, are very low and open, to display the collar, chemisette, etc. Another, of plainer scarf form, has a collar pointed in front, and a shoulder-piece coming below it has the effect of a double collar, ending in a bow of ribbon upon the shoulder. Still another, especially suited for a matron, has a slight fulness in the back, which is cut in the same piece as the front, coming into a very low pointed yoke on the shoulder; the collar corresponds in form and style. All Madame Demorest's patterns are made in tissue paper, fitting to the figure with the same grace as the real garment, and the trimmings are imitated with wonderful exactness.

For several new sleeves, we are also indebted to the same establishment, although the season is too early to admit of a judgment as to what will be the prevailing styles.

The bonnets are all very small, with open shallow brims and long low crowns. The stiff round crown has entirely gone out, and the ingenuity of the milliner is almost exhausted in draping this very necessary part of the bonnet in the most graceful way. Dress, or drawn bonnets are made of silk and crape, with a profusion of ribbon and lace; the bonnet itself seems of little consequence, so that the crown has a good shape, and the inside of the brim is gracefully decorated. Our fashionable ladies have a remarkable air ofone-sidednessin this respect. For instance, a large bow of pink ribbon, set high up on the right, and a drooping spray of flowers on the left, connected by blonde or narrow laces of any kind. In wreaths running around the face, one side is made heavier than the other, and continued so to the forehead, or crosses it perhaps, instead of the old-fashioned well-balanced bouquets on each side, connected by narrow wreaths at the top. White is the prevailing color so far, with crape flowers in purple, with bright green leaves, as lilacs, heartsease, convolvulus, clusters of glycena, etc. etc. Delicate shades of pink, green, violet, and blue are also seen; lace, either blonde or less costly styles, is used in all.

Of ribbons for straw bonnets we have endless varieties of colors and patterns, brocaded, plaided, and plain. For ourselves, we are no fanciers of a ribbon that at a little distance looks like a strip of gay-colored chintz; a rich, thick satin, or Mantua, of one shade, is always more lady-like, and sufficient variety can be found in the different stripes, pearlings, etc. Gold brocaded ribbons—by brocaded, we mean a raised figure upon a plain ground—are more suitable for headdresses, or evening-dress, than the street. They will beentirely outof place on a straw bonnet; as much so as a rich gimp or velvet trimming on a chintz dress.

Silks, mousselines, and light spring cashmeres, indeed, any fabric of like thickness, will be made, as in the past winter, with basques, closed all around, over the hips, and without the rolling-collar at the bust, which was so long the style. The sleeves will be worn decidedly larger at the top, even when they are not intended for puffs or plaits. These open on the inside of the arm, and require to have the seam set very far forward, so as to have the opening fall away from the wrist. It is now the style to face a silk sleeve far up with white Florence, and box-plait a white satin ribbon about an inch in width around the inside edge, no matter as to what the dress itself is trimmed with: it gives a very stylish finish. Ribbons, galloons, and frills of the same are the favorite trimmings, which, in all cases save black, should match the shade of the dress exactly. Black silks are much worn this spring, with ribbon trimmings of deep purple, blue, green, and even crimson; the flounces are bound in this style, and the barque and sleeve trimmings correspond. Bows of ribbon, medium width, either flat or with flowing ends, close the basque and sleeve openings on most of the new silks, etc. Guipure lace is the richest and most costly of all, and comes of every shade and width, ranging from 75 cents to $5 per yard. The galloons are rich, light, and fanciful; satin and velvet, watered, pearled, etc.

Our May number, besides a more elaborate notice of Mr. Brodie's establishment, will contain many items of great interest in this department, as the openings are announced for an early day.FASHION.

TOEXTRACTESSENCESFROMFLOWERS.—Procure a quantity of the petals of any flowers which have an agreeable fragrance, card thin layers of cotton, which dip into the finest Florence or Lucca oil, sprinkle a small quantity of fine salt on the flowers, and lay a layer of cotton and one of flowers alternately, until an earthen vessel or wide-mouthed glass bottle is full. Tie the top close with a bladder, then lay the vessel in a south aspect to the heat of the sun, and in fifteen days, when uncovered, a fragrant oil may be squeezed away from the whole mass, quite equal to the highly-valued otto of roses.

TOIMPROVETHEVOICE.—Beeswax, two drachms; copaiba balsam, three drachms; powder of liquorice-root, four drachms. Melt the copaiba balsam with the wax in a new earthen pipkin; when melted, remove them from the fire, and while in a melted state mix in the powder. Make pills of three grains each. Two of these pills to be taken occasionally.

FOOTNOTES:[1]I have liberally availed myself, in the above theory, of the hints of my talented friend, J. J. Woodward, contained in an epistolatory criticism on Bulwer's Zanoni, written to a mutual friend.[2]Entered according to Act of Congress, by T. B. PETERSON, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

[1]I have liberally availed myself, in the above theory, of the hints of my talented friend, J. J. Woodward, contained in an epistolatory criticism on Bulwer's Zanoni, written to a mutual friend.

[1]I have liberally availed myself, in the above theory, of the hints of my talented friend, J. J. Woodward, contained in an epistolatory criticism on Bulwer's Zanoni, written to a mutual friend.

[2]Entered according to Act of Congress, by T. B. PETERSON, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

[2]Entered according to Act of Congress, by T. B. PETERSON, in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the Eastern District of Pennsylvania.

Transcriber notes:P.298. 'or crum of bread', changed 'crum' to 'crumb'.P.302. 'ever appoach', changed 'appoach' to 'approach'.P.368. ... the subject commonplace.) Closed brackets.P.374. 'a silkly gloss.' Changed 'silkly' to 'silky'.P.378'line the slides', changed 'slides' to 'sides'.Fixed various punctuation.

P.298. 'or crum of bread', changed 'crum' to 'crumb'.

P.302. 'ever appoach', changed 'appoach' to 'approach'.

P.368. ... the subject commonplace.) Closed brackets.

P.374. 'a silkly gloss.' Changed 'silkly' to 'silky'.

P.378'line the slides', changed 'slides' to 'sides'.

Fixed various punctuation.


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