PRAY, what is that we enter, but ne'er see?And yet familiarized with it are we;Though ne'er created, yet existing 'tis,And with ourselves concurrent always is.Its property throughout our lives we share,And draw on its resources everywhere.Itself indefinite, yet marks the sumOf our career—past, present, and to come.Its current value, too (to this attend),Must on our working of that sum depend.In fact, its origin, its age, its death,May be explained away in one word's breath;Though of enigmas it must ever beTo human minds the greatest mystery?
PRAY, what is that we enter, but ne'er see?And yet familiarized with it are we;Though ne'er created, yet existing 'tis,And with ourselves concurrent always is.Its property throughout our lives we share,And draw on its resources everywhere.Itself indefinite, yet marks the sumOf our career—past, present, and to come.Its current value, too (to this attend),Must on our working of that sum depend.In fact, its origin, its age, its death,May be explained away in one word's breath;Though of enigmas it must ever beTo human minds the greatest mystery?
PRAY, what is that we enter, but ne'er see?And yet familiarized with it are we;Though ne'er created, yet existing 'tis,And with ourselves concurrent always is.Its property throughout our lives we share,And draw on its resources everywhere.Itself indefinite, yet marks the sumOf our career—past, present, and to come.Its current value, too (to this attend),Must on our working of that sum depend.In fact, its origin, its age, its death,May be explained away in one word's breath;Though of enigmas it must ever beTo human minds the greatest mystery?
PRAY, what is that we enter, but ne'er see?
And yet familiarized with it are we;
Though ne'er created, yet existing 'tis,
And with ourselves concurrent always is.
Its property throughout our lives we share,
And draw on its resources everywhere.
Itself indefinite, yet marks the sum
Of our career—past, present, and to come.
Its current value, too (to this attend),
Must on our working of that sum depend.
In fact, its origin, its age, its death,
May be explained away in one word's breath;
Though of enigmas it must ever be
To human minds the greatest mystery?
17.
MYname's a paradox to you,Expressing what I'd fain not do,For constancy's my aim;I'm really such a loving elf,To you I would attach myselfWith ardor aye the same.
MYname's a paradox to you,Expressing what I'd fain not do,For constancy's my aim;I'm really such a loving elf,To you I would attach myselfWith ardor aye the same.
MYname's a paradox to you,Expressing what I'd fain not do,For constancy's my aim;I'm really such a loving elf,To you I would attach myselfWith ardor aye the same.
MYname's a paradox to you,
Expressing what I'd fain not do,
For constancy's my aim;
I'm really such a loving elf,
To you I would attach myself
With ardor aye the same.
18.
SOMETIMES, a minister of state,Scarlet and gold I wear;Faith o'er the world I circulateIn many a form that's fair.No mediator ever aidsThe mortal in distress,Howe'er the tyrants of the earthHis spirit may oppress,As I successfully can do.Whene'er he's destitute,Then finds he me a comforter,Where worldly friends are mute.For I can raise his mind aboveThe vanities of life;Can banish all its jealousies,Extinguish all its strife;Can mitigate the miseriesAttendant on the poor;And wretches, all disconsolate,With radiant hope allure.
SOMETIMES, a minister of state,Scarlet and gold I wear;Faith o'er the world I circulateIn many a form that's fair.No mediator ever aidsThe mortal in distress,Howe'er the tyrants of the earthHis spirit may oppress,As I successfully can do.Whene'er he's destitute,Then finds he me a comforter,Where worldly friends are mute.For I can raise his mind aboveThe vanities of life;Can banish all its jealousies,Extinguish all its strife;Can mitigate the miseriesAttendant on the poor;And wretches, all disconsolate,With radiant hope allure.
SOMETIMES, a minister of state,Scarlet and gold I wear;Faith o'er the world I circulateIn many a form that's fair.
SOMETIMES, a minister of state,
Scarlet and gold I wear;
Faith o'er the world I circulate
In many a form that's fair.
No mediator ever aidsThe mortal in distress,Howe'er the tyrants of the earthHis spirit may oppress,As I successfully can do.Whene'er he's destitute,Then finds he me a comforter,Where worldly friends are mute.
No mediator ever aids
The mortal in distress,
Howe'er the tyrants of the earth
His spirit may oppress,
As I successfully can do.
Whene'er he's destitute,
Then finds he me a comforter,
Where worldly friends are mute.
For I can raise his mind aboveThe vanities of life;Can banish all its jealousies,Extinguish all its strife;Can mitigate the miseriesAttendant on the poor;And wretches, all disconsolate,With radiant hope allure.
For I can raise his mind above
The vanities of life;
Can banish all its jealousies,
Extinguish all its strife;
Can mitigate the miseries
Attendant on the poor;
And wretches, all disconsolate,
With radiant hope allure.
19.
MYcharacter consider well,The deadliest quarrel I can quell,When folks by me are led;For satisfaction I can giveTo all who'd not dishonored live,And e'en avenge the dead.I'm dull and heavy, yet at needYou may accelerate my speed,Upon a hostile course;Destruction's ever my good aim,Yet I've an honorable fameFor equalizing force.
MYcharacter consider well,The deadliest quarrel I can quell,When folks by me are led;For satisfaction I can giveTo all who'd not dishonored live,And e'en avenge the dead.I'm dull and heavy, yet at needYou may accelerate my speed,Upon a hostile course;Destruction's ever my good aim,Yet I've an honorable fameFor equalizing force.
MYcharacter consider well,The deadliest quarrel I can quell,When folks by me are led;For satisfaction I can giveTo all who'd not dishonored live,And e'en avenge the dead.
MYcharacter consider well,
The deadliest quarrel I can quell,
When folks by me are led;
For satisfaction I can give
To all who'd not dishonored live,
And e'en avenge the dead.
I'm dull and heavy, yet at needYou may accelerate my speed,Upon a hostile course;Destruction's ever my good aim,Yet I've an honorable fameFor equalizing force.
I'm dull and heavy, yet at need
You may accelerate my speed,
Upon a hostile course;
Destruction's ever my good aim,
Yet I've an honorable fame
For equalizing force.
"The wicked borroweth and payeth not again."
"Md., 1854.
"DEARSIR: I present myself before you this morning another evidence of the great inconveniences sometimes attending the borrowing system. My books have suffered in various ways; some have hadrhubarb(!) spilt on them, others ink, besides being otherwise maltreated and maimed. And now I find the May number for 1853 has disappeared, and no trace of it can be discovered. Can't you aid me in this emergency, and oblige me by supplying the missing copy? Inclosed are postage stamps to the amount.
"Respectfully yours,M. A. T."MR. LOUISA. GODEY."
"Respectfully yours,M. A. T.
"MR. LOUISA. GODEY."
FROMthe "Ohio Clinton Republican:"—
"'LADY'SBOOK.'—The February number of 'Godey's Lady's Book' has just been received. We fear there are not enough copies of this excellent and popular periodical taken in this place, else there would not be so many applications to borrow ours by our fair friends."
FROMthe "Schuylkill Banner:" "Although this magazine is entitled 'Lady's Book,' it is a book sought after by not only females, but males of all grades that can read; and we are sorry to say that so many of our readers would rather borrow than subscribe to it."
"N. C., Feb. 22, 1854.
"MR. GODEY: I shall be compelled, inself-defence, to get you a lot of subscribers at this place. The copy you are kind enough to send the 'News' is literally worn out in the service of the ladies, bless them! They will have it, and I cannot refuse to loan. I expect to be able to send you some more shortly.
"Yours truly,T. W. A."
"Mrs. H. L."—Buff-colored note-paper and cards are now fashionable. Can send you both.
"Miss J. E. P."—Black velvet headdress sent on the 12th.
"M. S."—Sent your sewing-machine by Adams's Express on the 13th.
"Miss C. H."—Sent your bonnet by Adams's on the 14th.
"Mrs. O. H. F."—Sent your bonnet by express on 16th.
"Miss E. O. P."—Sent bonnet by the person who brought the order on the 16th.
"J. B. G."—Paper hangings were sentviaCamden and Amboy Railroad on the 11th.
"Emily L. M."—Don't know any more than what the acknowledgment referred to conveys. Shall be happy to hear from you at all times.
"Miss B."—Sent port-monnaie by mail on 15th.
"Anna E. W."—Please see March, April, and this number for full directions for crochet and knitting. Other portions of your letter will be answered. Much obliged to you for your commendations. We will send pamphlets postage free about the sewing-machine to all who may wish them.
"Mrs. A. M. L."—Sent bonnet by Kinsley's Express on the 14th.
"H. E. G."—Sent apron pattern on 22d.
"S. E. W."—Sent apron pattern on 24th.
"Old Subscriber," at Godfrey, Ill.—Cannot publish the patterns, as they are too large; but will furnish them at $1 25, and will get them to match as near as possible. They do not come in sets. Patterns can be stamped on the material, which is much better, as they can be stamped ready for working.
"L. B."—Sent patterns by mail on 28th.
"Mrs. M. A. W."—Sent your order by mail on 4th.
"Miss H. A. J."—Sent duplicate on the 4th.
"Mrs. M. A. W."—Sent garment on the 4th.
"Mrs. A. V. Du B."—Sent patterns on the 9th.
"Mrs. M. A. L."—Sent "colors" by Adams & Co. on 10th.
"Mrs. S. H. D."—Books and patterns sent by mail on the 11th.
"Mrs. D. C. H."—Sent box by Adams's Express on 11th.
"Mrs. M. S. L."—Sent box by mail on the 11th.
"M. C. L."—Sent book by mail on 16th.
"Miss C. V. S."—Sent silk on 17th.
"Miss E. C. H."—Sent pattern on 17th.
In answer to several correspondents, we give the following directions for
STARCHINGLINEN.—To those who desire to impart to shirt bosoms, collars, and other fabrics that fine and beautiful gloss observable on new linens, the following recipe for making gum arabic starch will be most acceptable, and should have a place in the domestic scrap-book of every woman who prides herself upon her capacity as a house-wife and the neatness of her own, her husband's, and family's dress; and, if she does not take pride in these things, her husband is an unfortunate man:—
"Take two ounces of fine white gum arabic powder, put it into a pitcher, and pour on it a pint or more of boiling water, according to the degree of strength you desire, and then, having covered it, let it set all night. In the morning, pour it carefully from the dregs into a clean bottle, cork it, and keep it for use. A tablespoonful of gum-water stirred into a pint of starch that has been made in the usual manner will give the lawns (either white, black, or printed) a look of newness, when nothing else can restore them after washing. It is also good, much diluted, for thin white muslin and bobbinet."—Augusta Chronicle.
No orders attended to unless the cash accompanies them.
All persons requiring answers by mail must send a post-office stamp.
TOREMOVEGREASE FROMPAPER.—Scrape finely some pipe clay or French chalk, and on this lay the sheet or leaf to be cleansed, covering the spot in like manner with clay or chalk. Cover the whole with a sheet of paper, and apply, for a few seconds, a heated iron. On using India rubber to remove the dust, the paper will be found to be free of the grease.
STRAWmay be bleached by putting it in a cask into which a few brimstone matches are placed lighted. The same effect may be produced by dipping the straw into chloride of lime dissolved in water.
VARNISH FORCOLOREDDRAWINGS.—Canada balsam, one ounce; oil of turpentine, two ounces; dissolve. Size the drawings first with a jelly of isinglass, and when dry apply the varnish, which will make them appear like oil paintings.
MOCKCREAM FORCOFFEE.—Mix half a tablespoonful of flour with a pint of new milk; let it simmer for five minutes, then beat up the yolk of an egg, stir it into the milk while boiling, and run it through a lawn sieve.
TO USEJEWELLER'SROUGE INCLEANINGORNAMENTS.—Mix it with a little salad oil, and with a small tooth-brush rub the ornament till perfectly clean; then wash in hot soap and water with a clean brush, and wipe dry with wash-leather.
AVERYpretty and economical finish for sheets, pillow-cases, &c., may be made from the cuttings of bleached muslin: Cut one and a half inch squares, and fold them bias, from corner to corner, then fold again, so as to form a point, seam on to the straight side on raw edge and face on a strip to cover the seam.
TO GIVE A FINECOLOR TOMAHOGANY.—Let the tables be washed perfectly clean with vinegar, having first taken out any ink-stains there may be with spirit of salt, but it must be used with the greatest care, only touching the part affected, and instantly washing it off. Use the following liquid: Into a pint of cold drawn linseed oil, put four pennyworth of alkanet root, and two pennyworth of rose pink in an earthen vessel, let it remain all night, then, stirring well, rub some of it all over the table with a linen rag; when it has lain some time, rub it bright with linen cloths.
FINEBLACKING FORSHOES.—Take four ounces of ivory black, three ounces of the coarsest sugar, a tablespoonful of sweet oil, and a pint of small beer; mix them gradually cold.
TO TAKEINK OUT OFMAHOGANY.—Mix, in a teaspoonful of cold water, a few drops of oil of vitriol; touch the spot with a feather dipped in the liquid.
TOCLEANPICTURES.—Dust them lightly with cotton wool, or with a feather brush.
TOCLEANMIRRORS.—Wipe them lightly with a clean bit of sponge or fine linen that has been wet in spirits of wine, or in soft water; then dust the glass with fine whiting powder; rub this off with a soft cloth, then rub with another clean cloth, and finish it with a silk handkerchief. Dust the frames with cotton wool.
MILDEWSTAINSare very difficult to remove from linen. The most effectual way is to rub soap on the spots, then chalk, and bleach the garment in the hot sun.
INK ANDIRONMOULDmay be taken out by wetting the spots in milk, then covering them with common salt. It should be done before the garments have been washed. Another way to take out ink is to dip it in melted tallow. For fine, delicate articles, this is the best way.
FRUIT ANDWINESTAINS.—Mix two teaspoonfuls of water and one of spirit of salt, and let the stained part lie in this for two minutes; then rinse in cold water. Or wet the stain with hartshorn.
CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC MANGE.
[Fifth article.]
DEVONSHIREJUNKET.—Put warm milk into a bowl; turn it with rennet; then put some scalded cream, sugar, and nutmeg on the top without breaking the curd.
KERRYBUTTERMILK.—Put six quarts of buttermilk into a cheese-cloth, hang it in a cool place, and let the whey drip from it for two or three days; when it is rather thick, put it into a basin, sweeten it with pounded loaf-sugar, and add a glass of brandy, or of sweet wine, and as much raspberry jam, or syrup, as will color and give it an agreeable flavor. Whisk it well together, and serve it in a glass dish.
WHIPSYLLABUB.—Whip cream, as directed above; mix a glass of brandy and half a pint of white wine with a pint of the cream, which sweeten with sifted loaf-sugar, and grate in lemon-peel and nutmeg; serve in glasses, and set some of the whip on each.
SNOWBALLS.—Beat the whites of six eggs to a froth, sweeten them to your taste, and flavor them with rose-water. Drop them into a pot of boiling water, in tablespoonfuls, for a minute or two, to harden them. Make a cream of milk, eggs, and sugar to float them in.
A FLOATINGISLAND.—Take a pint of thick cream, sweeten withfinesugar, grate in the peel of one lemon, and add a gill of sweet white wine; whisk it well till you have raised a good froth; then pour a pint of thick cream into a china dish, take one French roll, slice it thin, and lay it over the cream as lightly as possible; then a layer of clear calves' feet jelly, or currant jelly; then whip up your cream and lay on the froth as high as you can, and what remains pour into the bottom of the dish. Garnish the rim with sweetmeats.
FLOATINGISLAND—another way.—Beat together the whites of three eggs and as many tablespoonfuls of raspberry jam or red currant jelly; when the whole will stand in rocky forms, pile it upon apple jelly, or cream, beaten up with wine, sugar, and a little grated lemon-peel.
TOWHIPCREAM.—Sweeten a bowl of cream with loaf-sugar, and flavor it with orange-flower water, any juicy fruit, or lemon or orange, by rubbing sugar on the peel; set another bowl near the above, with a sieve over it; then whip the cream with a whisk, and, as it rises in a froth, take it off with a skimmer, and put it into the sieve to drain; whip also the cream which drains off, and, when done, ornament with lemon-raspings. This cream may be used before it is set upon custard, trifle, or syllabub.
A TRIFLE.—Whip cream, as directed above, adding a little brandy and sweet wine; then lay in a glass dish sponge cakes, ratafia cakes, and macaroons, and pour upon them as much brandy and sweet wine as they will soak up; next, a rich custard about two inches deep, with a little grated nutmeg and lemon-peel; then a layer of red currant jelly or raspberry jam, and upon the whole a very high whip. A trifle is best made the day before it is wanted.
CAKETRIFLE.—Cut out a rice or diet-bread cake about two inches from the edge; fill it with a rich custard, with a few blanched and split almonds, and pieces of raspberry jam, and put on the whole a high whip.
Gooseberry or Apple Trifle.—Scald a sufficient quantity of fruit, and pulp it through a sieve; add sugar agreeable to your taste, make a thick layer of this at the bottom of your dish; mix a pint of milk, a pint of cream, and the yolks of two eggs, scald it over the fire, observing to stir it; add a small quantity of sugar, and let it get cold. Then lay it over the apples or gooseberries with a spoon, and put on the whole a whip made the day before.
THE SICK ROOM AND NURSERY.
COLD ORINFLAMMATION IN THEEYES.—A correspondent has met with the greatest relief from the following application: Soak in cold spring water, for half an hour, a piece of bread toasted brown, and then place it on soft linen rag, one thickness, next the eye, and apply at bedtime every night, until the inflammation is removed.
FUMIGATINGSICKROOMS.—The chlorine fumigation is generally considered the best for fumigating the apartments of the sick. To prepare it, mix together equal parts of powdered oxide of manganese and common salt; put one ounce of this powder into a basin, and pour on it a large teaspoonful of water; then drop into the vessel about thirty or forty drops of oil of vitriol, which may be repeated at intervals for about three or four times. This will be sufficient for the perfect exhaustion of the powder.
TO MAKEARROW-ROOT.—To a dessert-spoonful of powder, add as much cold water as will make it into a paste, then pour on half a pint of boiling water, stir it briskly and boil a few seconds, when it will become a clear smooth jelly. It may be sweetened with sugar, and flavored with lemon-peel, &c., to the palate, or a little sherry or other white wine may be added; fresh milk, either alone or diluted with water, may be substituted for the water.
ANTIDOTE FORLAUDANUM.—Give immediately twenty grains of white vitriol dissolved in water, and assist vomiting by irritating the fauces with a feather; after the stomach is emptied, give large draughts of vinegar and water, and other vegetable acids, with coffee, brandy, &c., constantly rousing the attention of the sufferer, until the effects of the poison subside. Recourse may be had to this until such time as the attendance of a medical man can be procured.
OPODELDOC.—This lotion being a valuable application for sprains, lumbago, weakness of joints, &c., and it being difficult to procure either pure or freshly made, we give a receipt for its preparation: Dissolve an ounce of camphor in a pint of rectified spirits of wine, then dissolve four ounces of hard white Spanish soap, scraped thin, in four ounces of oil of rosemary, and mix them together.
SUBSTANCES IN THEEYE.—To remove fine particles of gravel, lime, &c., the eye should be syringed with lukewarm water till free from them. Be particular not to worry the eye under the impression that the substance is still there, which the enlargement of some of the minute vessels makes the patient believe is actually the case.
GOWLAND'SLOTION.—Take one and a quarter grains of bichloride of mercury, and one ounce of emulsion of bitter almonds; mix well. Be careful of the bichloride of mercury, because it is a poison. This is one of the best cosmetics we possess for imparting a delicate appearance and softness to the skin, and is a useful lotion in ringworm, hard and dry skin, and sun-blisterings.
TOCLEANKIDGLOVES.—Draw the gloves on the hands, and then freely wash them in turpentine until perfectly clean. Then blow into them and pin them on a line to dry. The air will dissipate any smell the turpentine may leave. Should this, however, not prove to be the case, a drop or two of oil of lemon in a little water, rubbed lightly over the gloves, will effectually destroy it.
TOREMOVEFRECKLES.—Take of Venice soap an ounce, dissolve it in half an ounce of lemon-juice, to which add of oil of bitter almonds and deliquated oil of tartar, each a quarter of an ounce. Let the mixture be placed in the sun till it acquires the consistence of ointment. When in this state, add three drops of the oil of rhodium, and keep it for use. Apply it in the following manner: Wash the face at night with elder-flower water, then anoint it with the above unction. In the morning, cleanse the skin from its oily adhesion by washing it copiously in rose-water.
TO PREVENTHAIR FROM FALLING OUT.—Make a strong decoction of white-oak bark in water, and use it freely. Make but little at a time, and have it fresh at least once a fortnight.
Decorated Line
is signalized, in the annals of New York housekeepers, as a time of change.
Boarders go to housekeeping; old housekeepers, tired of the wear and tear of servants and marketing, give up their comfortable homes for the confinement of a parlor and bed-room in some fashionable hotel or lodging house. Or it may be that only a removal is contemplated, and Mr. Leeds is called in to superintend the sale of furniture that has got behind the times, like the street or square in which it has been used, and carpets much too small for the enlarged views of the wife of the successful merchant. Months before, the young married people have been going from house to house, peering into closets and dumb waiters, measuring floors with an accurate eye, or halls by sober, long-reaching strides, and taking the altitude of windows for shade or curtain. They stop at Berrian's, on their way to business, and pause before Haughwout's huge windows of china and glass. Peterson & Humphrey's carpets are more attractive than the prints at Goupil's or the landscapes at Stevens's. They notice the price of flour in the morning paper, and consult about the wet linen goods "from the Humboldt"—a cargo that would seem as inexhaustible as the furniture of the Mayflower. By and by, the mornings are passed at auctions, and "bargains" begin to crowd their rooms, as heterogeneous in manufacture as in use. All at once, they find their purchase brought to a stand-still by lack of funds, and the house is not half furnished. Ah, they had forgotten to make a calculation beforehand, and purchase actual articles of necessity before matters of luxury!
Now they go on as they should have commenced, cautiously and economically; still, the kitchen and chamber departments show reprovingly for some time to come how they have been robbed for the sake of the parlor curtains and mantle ornaments.
They should have had some good old friend, like ourselves, to say, "Now, my dears, I like your plan of housekeeping; you will find it the most comfortable and economical in the end, if you will only go the right way to work. You have made a fortunate selection in your house. It is neither too large for your means nor your family. How many rooms in it? How have you disposed of them? Now take a spare scrap of paper, and write them down in order.
"Beginwith your kitchen,endwith your parlor. Reverse the usual plan, if your aim is comfort and not show. Only Mrs. M. or N. will notice whether you have shades or curtains. If your family lack comfortable bedding, or your kitchen needful conveniences, you certainly incommode those you care most to please. Take the kitchen, for example. How large is it? Will you have it covered with carpeting or oil-cloth? How many yards, and at what price? Have you a range? If not, count the cost of stove and boilers. How many chairs and tables? At whatprice? The dresser, and delf necessary for cooking and servants' use." Fortunately, the lists of the furnishing warehouses save an endless amount of thought and trouble, especially in the matter of cooking utensils. Those unlearned in such research will find one of them in our answers to correspondents the present number.
As for the kitchen, so for the dining-room, the china-closet, the linen-press, store-room, chambers, and finally the parlor. Make your calculation as accurately as possible, to come within the limit you have set yourself, remembering in all cases to take from articles of mere adornment or show, rather than essential comforts, and that infinite petty mortifications and care can be saved to a house-keeper by making plenty, not superfluity, her rule.
THEREare very few of our readers—we take it for granted—who have not met with the little book, "A Trap to Catch a Sunbeam." A longer story, by the same author, has made its appearance in England, prettily illustrated by Gilbert. The title is "Influence," neither more nor less; and the object in view is to show the weight good or bad influence will have on the character, even from the nursery.
As most appropriate to our "Centre-Table Chat," which unites gayeties and gravities, we give as a sample of the new book. Speaking of the education of Cyril, its hero's sister—
"Yes, Julia was improving in every knowledge but one of the most important, the knowledge which a mother's example could best have taught her, to know and perform her mission here, the proper exercise ofwoman's paramount influence over man."
There would be fewer wretched marriages, fewer dissipated, degraded men, if this lesson were included in a woman's education; if they were taught to feel the angel duty which devolves on them—to keep the wandering steps of those who are tempted so much more than they in the paths of virtue and peace; to make them feel that in the busy world are noise and confusion; that at home there are order and repose; that there "eyes look brighter when they come, that the smile of welcome is ever ready to receive them,the work, the books are ever ready to be laid aside to minister to their pleasure"—they would find amusement then at home, nor strive to seek it elsewhere.
And not alone to the higher classes of society should this be taught. It should be a lesson instilled into the minds of all, high and low, rich and poor. Duty has seldom so strong a hold on men as women; they cannot, they will not, forduty'ssake, remain in a dull, tedious, or ill-managed, querulous home, but leave it to seek elsewhere the comfort and amusement which fail them there; and, when riot and revelry have done their work, the wives and sisters who have done so little to make them otherwise are pitied for their bad husbands and brothers.
THEgreat Koh-i-noor diamond displayed in the English Exhibition, and shown by a model in the New York Crystal Palace, has a rival in one now deposited in the Bank of England by the consignees, Messrs. Dory & Benjamin, of London. It comes from Rio Janeiro, and weighs 254½ carats, of the purest water. When cut and polished, it is expected to surpass the Indian diamond in size and brilliancy. It has been shown to the queen, and is the subject of general remark in the English prints.
Ball & Black, of New York, have still in their window the celebrated necklace of pearls displayed at the Crystal Palace. It consists of a single string of pure pearls, threaded like the gold beads of our grandmothers, and about the same size. The cross attached is of diamonds, in a rich and tasteful setting. The pearls are of such unusual size and purity that at first it seems almost impossible that they can be real.
Necklaces are worn much more than they have been, for full dress especially. The most fashionable and costly style is of diamonds, and quite flat, either set in a pattern or a single row of brilliants. Ladies who cannot afford this costly appendage to their toilets adopt a very fine Venetian gold chain, to which is suspended a medallion of precious stones set with diamonds.
WEdo not often allude to what we have done or intend to do in this department, keeping the even tenor of our way, and letting our chitchat speak for itself. But of late we have noticed that other publications assume to have been the first to give detailed directions, in addition to the meagre description of the fashion plates at first offered to the public. Hailing as we do from the Quaker City, we shall "mildly remonstrate," and only assert thatthis is not the case.
The present fashion editor was the first to originate the monthly letter or record of the fleeting changes of the season, and since that time has been engaged in collecting, with more or less research and difficulty, from foreignjournals des modes, the importer, the mantuamaker, and the milliner, such items as will be of practical or suggestive use, and setting these before our readers in a simple, reliable style, differing from the French raptures of the "Moniteur," or the meagre descriptions of American prints, where the fashions are a last consideration with the publisher—tacked on, because some one else had set the example. To us it seems as consistent with the scientific and professedly critical character they assume, as a lady's French bonnet would appear as the crowning-point of costume on "a potent, grave, and reverend seignior." But we have no quarrel with them for assuming our especial badge as a "Lady's Book," nor are we at all particular in demanding credit of them for our borrowed plumes; we would only suggest that modesty might be a becoming addition to them, and truthfulness an equal grace.
Now, any of our lady readers who have been invited by friends in the country to "let them know what is worn this season," will at once understand the time and trouble it takes to answer such a request satisfactorily. To relieve them from this task is what we have undertaken, at the same time giving variety to our chat by the description of any new manufacture, article of jewelry, fashionable shops, furniture, etc. etc. We did not plan or even dream of exciting emulation or envious remark, nor do we feel the slightest malice or ill-will towards those who thus confess their inferiority. Only, as the school children say, "will they please to let us alone," as we do them.
"A YOUNGAMATEURGARDENER" will find the following effectual in keeping the birds from his freely planted seeds. Mix together one pound of gas tar, quarter of a pound brown spirits of tar, and quarter pound of melted grease. Dip twine in this mixture, and weave it backwards and forwards over the beds, on sticks firmly planted at the side, a few inches high.
GODEY'S MODEL COLORED FASHIONS.
GODEY'S MODEL COLORED FASHIONS.
GODEY'S MODEL COLORED FASHIONS.
Wehaveheard of "cherries without stones." Here is a French horticultural receipt for producing them, which wehave never seen tested, however: "In the spring, before the circulation of the sap, a young seedling cherry-tree is split from the upper extremity down to the fork of its roots; then, by means of a piece of wood in the form of a spatula, the pith is carefully removed from the tree, in such a manner as to avoid any excoriations or other injury; a knife is used only for commencing the split. Afterwards the two sections are brought together, and tied with woollen, care being taken to close hermetically with clay the whole length of the cleft. The sap soon reunites the separated portions of the tree, and, two years afterwards, cherries are produced of the usual appearance, but, instead of stones, there will only be small soft pellicles."
"MRS. LOUISEM. C." will find farina boiled in milk the best food for an infant, next to its natural substance. It is well to change with arrowroot, in case of sickness; but, as constant food, it will fatten, but not strengthen the child.
"MISSJ."—We do not think the acceptance of a bouquet objectionable from any gentleman admitted to the family as a visitor. Flowers, books, and music are the most suitable gifts. Any article of dress or jewelry given or accepted by persons with no other tie than ordinary visiting acquaintance, is not in good taste, to say the least.
"MRS. S. D.," of Mobile.—Dress caps are of the lightest possible description, a mixture of blonde, flowers, and ribbon. Much blonde is used in trimming everything. The gold and silver embroidered ribbon is only suitable for evening, or for dress bonnets.
"MILTON, Pa."—The "Dress Book" has been sent; the directions are all practical.
"A YOUNGWIFE" has our best wishes in her new undertaking. If she is at all systematic, she will not find furnishing so difficult as she anticipates. We subjoin the desired list:—
Kitchen Furnishing List for$30.
Having had frequent applications for the purchase of jewelry, millinery, etc., by ladies living at a distance,the Editress of the Fashion Departmentwill hereafter execute commissions for any who may desire it, with the charge of a small percentage for the time and research required. Bridal wardrobes, spring and autumn bonnets, dresses, jewelry, bridal cards, cake-boxes, envelopes, etc. etc., will be chosen with a view to economy, as well as taste; and boxes or packages forwarded by express to any part of the country. For the last, distinct directions must be given.
Orders, accompanied by checks for the proposed expenditure, to be addressed to the care of L. A. Godey, Esq., who will be responsible for the amount, and the early execution of commissions.
No order will be attended to unless the money is first received.
Instructions to be as minute as is possible, accompanied by a note of the height, complexion, and general style of the person, on whichmuch dependsin choice. Dress goods from Levy's or Stewart's; cloaks, mantillas, or talmas, from Brodie's, 51 Canal Street, New York; bonnets from Miss Wharton's; jewelry from Bailey's or Warden's, Philadelphia, or Tiffany's, New York, if requested.
The unusually beautiful fashion plate of this month gives a very correct idea of prevailing spring styles.
Fig. 1st.—A dress suitable for the morning at a fashionable country house or watering-place, or for dinner. As a home dress, it is very tasteful and simple. The robe may be of pink taffeta, cashmere, or mousseline, open from the throat to the hem of the skirt, though the waist is fitted close to the bust, as in an ordinary tight dress. This opening is finished on each side by a doublerucheof the same material, the edges pinked, and is laced across by narrow taffeta ribbon. Chemisette in plaits, with a lace frill. Plain cambric skirt. Shawl of cambric embroidery; close bonnet of pink taffeta and black lace, with an edge formed of very narrow ribbons interlaced with black, to resemble a plaid.
Fig. 2d.—Walking or dinner-dress of pale green silk, made plain and close; sleeves open and loose. Light mantle of flounces or volants, of white guipure lace, headed by a narrow ribbon of violet color. The bonnet is covered with lace to correspond, and has leaves and ribbons of pale violet crape; tied with broad white taffeta ribbon. Parasol of violet lined with white silk.
It will be noticed that our styles are suited to the May of our Southern readers, and the June wardrobes of our Northern belles, being exceedingly light and simple, as summer dress should always be. Readers round about us are apt to forget that we have to be thoughtful of our far away subscribers as well as themselves.
BRODIE'S MANTILLA EMPORIUM—SHADES OF FASHION, ETC. ETC.
THEpresent promenade of Broadway extends scarcely to the Astor, in a downward direction; the crush of omnibuses, drays, business men forgetful of especial courtesy in their haste, porters, and laborers, conspire to make a chaos of confusion and discomfort below the Park which few ladies care to adventure. The tide of shoppers sets downward from the New York Hotel, and upwards from the Astor orIrving, meeting in a grand confluence at Canal Street, where you may pat the curbstone with your gaiter from three minutes to a quarter of an hour, watching an opportunity to stem the current and cross to the other side in safety.
Standing on this upper corner, you are in full view of the large freestone front of 51 Canal, the mantilla establishment of Brodie, to which we have promised to introduce our readers.
At this present writing, when everybody wants a mantilla, the graceful article of costume being considered as needful as a spring bonnet, the lower front of Brodie's has a most inviting prospect. It is entirely occupied by two enormous windows and a door of plate glass; the windows being, in reality, small Crystal Palaces for the accommodation of two slowly revolving dames in court costume of brocade orsoie d'antique, bearing upon their regal shoulders thechef-d'œuvresof the establishment, whether of velvet, guipure, or taffeta, as the season represented may be. At their feet are thrown, in apparent careless, but really artistic confusion, other designs not less elegant and attractive. These figures are of wax, modelled and colored from life, and, having supported the onerous public duties of the World's Fair, are now in the honorable retirement of comparatively private, though by no means secluded life. The room which you enter from the street is fitted up with superb mirrors, ovals and pier, the central one being of remarkable width as well as length. This is not, however, the principal show-room, though the office and much other business is carried on there in appropriate departments, handsomely fitted up. The stairs, covered with velvet carpeting, as, indeed, the whole establishment, lead you to the second floor, pannelled with plate glass mirrors set between the long windows, and in every place in which they can well be inserted. The walls are covered, as below, with delicate French paper, of white and gold, and, with the rich carpet, a drawing-room rather than a business establishment is suggested. Here there are piles of the most elegant and costly styles of mantillas and scarfs, that have given place to the heavy clothes and velvets of the just departed season; and here is a fluttering of silk dresses, a waving of spring garlands, as the busy crowd of purchasers flutter back and forth, exclaiming, "rapturizing," choosing, and trying on the profusion of styles before them. In the centre, is a light iron railing, still white, in keeping with the style of the rooms, over which you can watch the proceedings of the store below, or, looking upwards to a similar balcony, you see another story, apparently fitted and furnished as the show-room in which you now are.
This is the wholesale department, of course by far the most important of all. Ordinarily, you would have no call to ascend the stairs; but, being this morning a privileged visitor, you find there Mr. Brodie himself, in the midst of his importations, designs, and manufactures, his clerks, his saleswomen, whose patient shoulders and black silk dresses give an additional air to the latest styles, and his wholesale customers, for whom he is daily shipping packages, parcels, and boxes, north, south, east, and west; but especially south and west, where doubtless our own subscribers will be among the purchasers and the wearers.
If your curiosity will carry you up still another flight, Mr. Brodie's politeness will conduct you to a passing glance of the work-room, occupying the floor above. It would not be polite to watch too long the rows upon rows of girls and women busy with the silks, laces, ribbons, and other delicate materials of their craft; but you see that they are all busy and comfortable, with light and good fresh air in abundance. Yet higher! You noticed below how rich and how abundant was the embroidery, with what precision it was executed; here there is a row of frames, where embroidery, the lightest and richest, is executed by those to whom the work is not a pastime, but a regular and profitable occupation. Here is the pure whitepoult de soieof the "Snow-Drop," for instance, cut and ready for making up; the design traced upon it, tacked as smoothly upon the frame as the canvas of a picture, is stretched before the artist. The rapid and regular movement of the needle is covering it with the rich work that the young Southern bride will glory over, when the all-important box—thetrousseau—reaches her from New York. There is, besides these frames, a large embroidery department, situated up town, under Mr. Brodie's constant supervision. But here the new styles are first tried, that he may thus be able to regulate the prices of work, the quantity of material, etc., to be given out. In preparing for the winter season, this whole floor is filled with quilting-frames for the mantle and cloak linings; still another branch of female industry.
Some idea of the great amount of employment an establishment like this gives to the industrious classes of the city, may be formed from this bird's-eye view of the interior of Brodie's. Three hundred workmen are engaged from season to season in preparing the piles of costly draperies we have seen, as the raw material comes in only to be manufactured. Thus, the velvets, cloths, silks, etc., with the lighter fabrics, and trimmings of ribbon, lace, gimp, are imported by Mr. Brodie himself, and his designs are furnished by leading Parisian houses, known in the pages of "La Follet," "La Modiste," "Petit Courrier des Dames," and other journals of fashion.
Last, but not least, this fine building, with its costly decorations, this immense stock of goods, these busy purchasers and workwomen, are the rapid products of a persevering industry and enterprise that, were the story told, could scarcely be believed. The private history of most successful business men is a commentary upon the proverb, "Diligence is the mother of good-luck." Mr. Brodie's is a remarkable illustration. His is the only establishment in the country entirely devoted to the one branch of manufacture; his whole time, thoughts, correspondence, and Parisian visits centering on its improvement and success.
We have given time and space to the principal theme of our "Chat," partly that our readers may see how various are the styles of every article of wearing apparel, and how safely they may trust themselves to a new and graceful form, even though Mrs. Jones and Mrs. Brown do not happen to have brought it from New York or New Orleans. At Brodie's, for instance, each style is made up in every prevailing shade of silk. What folly in Mrs. Jones to say, "Green is the rage!" In a large city, nothing is the rage; if it approaches such a culmination, it is given up in a very few weeks.
As of mantles, so of bonnets. The milliner has herParisiennemodels, and her working materials, and employées. No two bonnets in her show-room must be precisely alike. So of the mantuamaker, who varies her shapes and her trimmings to suit her material, the figure, height, or complexion of her customer. Straw bonnets are perhaps the most uniform of all in shape; but here, again, there is every variety of ribbon and trimming. No two bows are made alike.City people will not submit to uniforms.
There is a generalstylein the fashions of each season, but inflections and shades as various as its grass and leafage. Our next "Chat," as in the April number, will be of these, as June admits of changes that our Northern May denies. July will claim, as usual, its watering-place and travelling fashions, with nursery items, welcome at any season to the busy mother of a household.
FASHION.