CHAPTER XI.
Voyage from Philadelphia to Baltimore: American aristocracy: Fort M’Henry: Entry of Baltimore: Description of Baltimore: Defence of the city in 1814.
On the 5th of October, received the touching adieus of the inhabitants of Philadelphia, and at 8 o’clock, P. M. we embarked on the Delaware to go down to Chester. We were accompanied by the committee of arrangement, a battalion of volunteers and a great number of staff officers. We arrived at Chester by 11 o’clock at night, and found the town illuminated; the hall in which general Lafayette was received and addressed, reminded him of a very memorable epoch of his life; it was in this very hall that the wound was first dressed, which he received at the battle of Brandywine. Before dismounting he still had the strength and presence of mind to rally a party of troops which were flying in disorder, and placed them at the entrance of the bridge to check the enemy, if he had conceived the thought of following up his first success. These different circumstances were recalled in a very affecting manner, by the orator charged to receive the general in the name of the inhabitants of Chester. After partaking of an excellent supper prepared by the ladies of Chester, we went to pass the rest of the night at the dwelling of colonel Anderson, an ancient companion in arms of general Lafayette.
Next morning we continued our journey, and arrived at an early hour at the borders of the state of Delaware, the point of which we were to cross where it lies between the states of Pennsylvania, Maryland, and New Jersey. There we took leave of our Philadelphia friends, who only left us after consigning us to the care of the Delaware committee, at the head of which general Lafayette recognized with pleasure, captainM’Lane, who commanded with great intrepidity under his orders, a company of partizansduring the campaign of Virginia, and who at this time in spite of his 80 years of age, came to receive him on horseback, wearing the revolutionary hat and feather.
We arrived, to dinner, at Wilmington; this handsome town, regularly built between the Christiana and Brandywine, is the largest in the state of Delaware; although its population does not exceed six thousand souls, it is nevertheless the centre of a considerable commerce, which is facilitated by its means of navigation. The vicinity of Philadelphia and Baltimore imparts a great activity to its manufactures. Notwithstanding the entreaties of the inhabitants, general Lafayette was obliged to continue his route to Frenchtown, in order to arrive the same day, where we were to find a steam-boat to convey us to Baltimore. We delayed for some hours at New Castle, to be present at the nuptials of the son of Mr. Victor Dupont, with Miss Vandyke. The marriage ceremony, which was conducted according to the rites of the reformed church, interested us extremely by its touching simplicity of character. It was performed in a hall in presence of the collected members of both families, and of some invited friends. The minister of the gospel before uniting the young couple, made them a short address, in which he explained clearly and without mysteriousness, the duties which their new situation would impose on them in the social order, and spoke of the virtues which could alone contribute to their happiness, like a husband and parent to whom the practice of these virtues had long been familiar. After having united them he terminated by a touching prayer, in English, in which every one could heartily unite, as it was perfectly intelligible to all. Notwithstanding the absence of robes and decorations, this service appeared to me as worthy and imposing as that of the Roman Catholic church.
The night was far advanced when we arrived at Frenchtown, where the steam-boat United States had waited for us a long time. At a short distance from Frenchtown, general Lafayette was met by a numerous deputation, and the aids of the governor of Maryland, who informed him that they were charged to convey him to Fort M’Henry, where the governor had established his head quarters to receive him. Among this deputation Lafayette recognized with pleasure many of his old friends, especially twoFrenchmen, colonel Bentalou, ancient officer of Pulaski’s legion, and Mr. Dubois Martin, an old man of 83 years, who commanded the vessel in which Lafayette escaped from Bordeaux to come to the United States. At the moment of our embarkation we learned that Mr. John Adams, secretary of state, had arrived at Frenchtown, on his way to Washington, and that he had accepted with pleasure the invitation given him to join the company of general Lafayette, to whom this was an especial satisfaction, as Mr. Adams was also an old and kind acquaintance.
Many travellers who have visited the United States, and who pretend to be well acquainted with the manners of the country, have stated that the Americans, in spite of their republican institutions, are essentially aristocratic in their habits, the following fact, will, I think, victoriously refute the accusation; and this fact is not an insulated one, nor an exception, as I shall have many others to relate.
On board the steam-boat which conveyed us across the Chesapeake, a chamber was prepared for general Lafayette, and as the committee of arrangement had the kindness to think that those who had participated in his fatigues ought to share in his repose, they had caused two other beds to be placed in the same chamber, one for his son, and the other for me. We were ignorant how our numerous travelling companions were arranged to pass the night; when George Lafayette going on deck for the sake of air, observed that the great cabin in which we had supped was converted into a vast dormitory, the floor of which was covered with beds, which the crowd occupied without ceremony. Among those who were preparing to lie down on the humble mattresses, he remarked with astonishment the secretary of state, John Adams. He immediately addressed him, and besought him to change beds with him; which he refused, declaring that he was very well accommodated, and should be grieved to separate him from his father. I arrived at the same moment and joined my intreaties to those of George Lafayette, remarking to Mr. Adams that the same objection would not apply to my proposition, and added I hoped he would not condemn me to lie in a good bed, when a man of his character was stretched upon a hard mattress: he replied very obligingly, but gave a formal refusal. In short, pressed by our unitedrequests, and the name of general Lafayette which we made use of, he stated that if he even felt disposed to accept our offer, he should still be obliged to refuse it, because before every thing else he must respect the dispositions of the committee of arrangement, and the committee had determined that no one should be admitted into general Lafayette’s chamber but his travelling companions. Mr. George Lafayette now sought a member of the committee of arrangement, and requested in the name of his father, that Mr. Adams should be admitted into the chamber instead of one of us. This latter clause was considered inadmissible by the committee, which, after a short deliberation, determined that a fourth bed should be prepared in general Lafayette’s chamber for Mr. Adams, not because he was secretary of state, but because general Lafayette desired to have one of his old friends near him. Mr. Adams did not consent to relinquish his mattress in the common room, until formally invited by the committee.
If there be any aristocracy in American manners, it must at least be confessed, that the great officers of the government partake of no such privileges.
During the night we advanced in exceeding bad weather, but in the morning when we entered the beautiful river Patapsco, on the banks of which the rich city of Baltimore stands, the sun dispersed the clouds, and his first rays gilding the vast horizon unveiled before us, permitted us already to see the spires of the city and the grove of masts of vessels which habitually fill the port, and the bastions of Fort M’Henry, which defends the entrance of the harbour.—At nine o’clock four steam-boats, the Maryland, Virginia, Philadelphia and Eagle, covered with flags and streamers, and crowded with a multitude of citizens, who came to receive their guest by saluting him with a triple welcome, with which their grateful voices made the air ring, came out of port and formed a line behind the United States, which majestically continued her course towards the shore. When we came within a short distance a number of boats came off to land the company. The first which landed conveyed general Lafayette, the secretary of state Mr. Adams, general Smith, Mr. Dubois Martin, and Mr. Morris, president of the committee. Captain Gardener acted as cockswain, and it was rowed by twelveship masters of Baltimore. We went on shore in the other boats, and were landed at the wharf of fort M’Henry. The National flag which had floated over it during the last war was hoisted: its ample field pierced by a bomb-shell, attests the vain efforts of the British engineers. At the gate of the fort general Lafayette was surrounded by a number of persons in citizen’s dress, for the most part mutilated. These were some of the individuals who in the year 1814, proved so energetically to the English, how much superior are men who combat for their liberty, country and families, to vile mercenaries hired by kings to gratify their passions. Fort M’Henry defended by a few citizen soldiers, saw before its feeble walls the pride and rage of an English fleet rendered vain, and the enemy obliged to retire disgracefully after a bombardment of 48 hours.
As general Lafayette entered the fort, the salute of cannon announced it to the citizens of Baltimore, who at this time crowded forth to meet him, and covered the long peninsula which extends from the city down to fort M’Henry, between the two bays formed by the river Patapsco. On the parade of the fort were collected a great number of old revolutionary officers, the magistrates, &c. and a detachment of infantry, which, by opening their ranks, allowed to be seen behind them thetent of Washington. If at this sight general Lafayette was affected by various emotions, his son was not less moved in beholding once more the person who had formed the happy and noble idea of bringing it to aid in the solemnities of the day. Mr. Custis, the author of this delicate attention, is the nephew of general Washington; with him George Lafayette passed two years of his youth under the hospitable roof of Mount Vernon, during the imprisonment of his father in the dungeons of Olmutz. The remembrance of their former fraternity, and of the cruel loss of him who had been their common father, caused them an emotion of mingled pleasure and pain, which could only be expressed by their silent tears and embraces.
General Lafayette having endeavoured to calm his first emotion, advanced towards the tent of Washington, where he was received by governor Stevens with an appropriate address.
After this discourse, to which general Lafayette replied with the sincere expression of a grateful and profoundly touched heart, we went into the tent, under which was old colonel Howard, who signalized his youth by the war of independence, and crowned his old age by the laurels gathered in 1814, in defence of Baltimore, and who filled the interval of these two great epochs of his life by the devotion of all his time to the cause of liberty. This venerable patriot, at the head of the society of Cincinnati, also addressed the general, and expressed the sentiments of all his old companions in arms, who could not longer contain the impulse of their joy, and hastened to throw themselves into the arms of their ancient leader, who, as they presented themselves, recognized nearly every one, and reminded them, with vivacity, of the times and places in which they had shared the same dangers and fatigues.
At length we left fort M’Henry, and the procession was formed to enter Baltimore; general Lafayette led the way in an open carriage, drawn by four horses; the vast extent of ground we had to pass on our left, was ornamented by a line of militia on foot and horseback, which formed in column behind us as we passed. On our right were the people who had flocked to meet us from Baltimore. We arrived at the entry of the town, where we found a triumphal arch, supported upon four beautiful Ionic columns. Under this arch 24 young ladies, robed in white, crowned with myrtle, and bearing lances, upon which were inscribed the names of the states of the union, received the Nation’s Guest, encircled him with garlands, and crowned him with laurels. At the same instant, the roar of cannon, mingled with the acclamations of the multitude. The procession continued its progress, and passing through all the streets, finally stopped in front of the City Hall, in the principal hall of which the general was received and welcomed in a speech by the mayor.
In his reply, general Lafayette proved that he had not forgotten the zeal of the inhabitants of Baltimore in the cause of liberty.
After this answer, and when all the members of the corporation were introduced, we went to the principal street of the city, in the centre of which an alcove, covered and adorned with rich carpets, had been prepared for the receptionof general Lafayette and his companions. Here the militia of Maryland, whose martial air disclosed the warlike character of this fine country, defiled before us to the sound ofLafayette’s march. Among the numerous corps which passed before us, one was pointed out to the general which marched under a ragged standard; this corps was Forsyth’s riflemen, and the flag was that under which Pulaski died at Savannah.
Pulaski,[17]after having long and uselessly fought for the liberty of his country, Poland, only abandoned it when the cause of independence was altogether desperate, and in search of places where he might still shed his blood for the principles he had hitherto defended. Virginia and Maryland were completely devastated by the war in 1778; when he organized a legion at Baltimore, the arts were no longer cultivated, and the entire activity of the citizens was turned towards war: he was then obliged to have recourse to the most simple colours. A piece of crimson silk, obtained with great difficulty, was embroidered in silk by the religious Moravian women of Bethlehem in Pennsylvania. On one side were the letters U. S. (United States) and the words “vis unita fortior,” on the other side was a field emblazoned with 13 stars, with this legend, “non alius reget” Such was the flag of Pulaski, which always conducted to the path of glory, the warriors who rallied under it. In 1778, the lieutenant colonel of this legion fell under the British bayonets at Egg-harbour, in New Jersey; in 1779, the colonel, who had previously commanded a regiment of hussars in the army of Frederick the Great, was sabred before Charlestown; on the 9th of October of the same year, general Pulaski, who had given his name to the legion, was mortally wounded by a shell, in the attack upon Savannah. In 1770, the major was sabred at Mark’s Corner; colonel Bentalou was then the oldest surviving officer; he took command of the legion, and at the end of the war inherited its flag, which he carefully preserved. Since the revolution it had never been displayed, but he thought that the arrival of Lafayette was a sufficiently glorious occasion for bringing it to light. Afterthe ceremony, he presented it to the museum, where it was received by the hands of the ladies of Baltimore.
After the review, we were conducted to our head quarters, which were established in the elegant hotel kept by Mr. John Barney, brother of the intrepid commodoreBarney, who gloriously fell, dreadfully wounded, at the head of his sailors, (at that time acting on shore as soldiers,) in the battle of Bladensburg.
In the evening, the city corporation, the senators and representatives of Maryland, and the governor and his staff dined with the general. After dinner, numerous toasts were drank, which for the most part were expressive of attachment to the person and principles of Lafayette, or sometimes according to the American custom, the opinion of their political party. Mr. Adams, still affected by the touching scenes he witnessed at fort M’Henry in the morning, gave the following, which was received with unanimous applause: “The tears of glory, gratitude, and joy, shed under the tent of Washington.”
Every instant of our stay in Baltimore, was marked by the most brilliant festivals, and the most delicate attentions. It is difficult to give a just idea of the elegance and delicacy of manners of the inhabitants of this city, in which we find the amiable union of American frankness, and French ease. The ball given by the city was every thing that was perfect of the kind; it was prepared in the theatre, and disposed with inimitable taste. All the boxes were occupied by ladies, and the carpet was entirely vacant. We were introduced from the stage, only accompanied by some members of the committee. At the moment the general appeared, he was announced by an invisible music, which played Lafayette’s march, and the gas blazing abundantly from numerous pipes, and throwing floods of dazzling light over the hall, discovered to our delighted eyes the most ravishing picture I ever beheld. The splendour of a parterre covered with the most beautiful flowers, would have looked pale along side of this crowd of beautiful ladies, waving their handkerchiefs, scattering flowers, and expressing, by their sweet tears, the happiness they experienced in beholding the Nation’s Guest. In an instant they abandoned their places, advanced to the middleof the hall, and surrounded the general, who remained for some moments incapable of expressing his gratefulness, so much was he affected. The dancing soon after commenced, and gave us an opportunity of admiring more in detail the graces and beauty of the ladies of Maryland.
We only remained five days at Baltimore, but general Lafayette’s time was so skillfully divided, that he could attend to nearly all the invitations he received. He was present successively at the entertainments of the freemasons, of the Cincinnati society, &c. &c. He daily received numerous deputations from a great number of cities earnestly requesting him to visit them. He visited the various public establishments of Baltimore, and on Sunday attended divine service, celebrated by the archbishop. The mass, in music, was admirably chanted by the ladies of Baltimore, under the direction of Mr. Gilles, an excellent professor, who for some years has diffused in the city a taste for good music, and formed a large number of distinguished pupils. On the same day the corps of militia officers was introduced by general Harper, who, on this occasion, pronounced a discourse, the following passage of which, appeared to me, to be especially remarkable.
“This free homage of our hearts,” said he, “stranger to flattery and ambition, is the more precious to you, as you well know, that it is the testimony of a nation, in favour of those principles of government, for which you have shed your blood in this hemisphere, and suffered so much in the other. This testimony perhaps will not be useless to the sacred cause you have embraced: at a moment when Europe is divided between two parties, one of which is endeavouring to perpetuate absolute power, and the other courageously combats for equality of rights and the establishment of a constitutional government; it will we hope be a great encouragement to the friends of the good cause to know that here we are undivided, and that the American nation is unanimous in its attachment to liberty.”
General Lafayette replied to the orator, assuring him that he participated in his opinions, his wishes, and his hopes.
The testimonials of affection both public and private, which the citizens of Baltimore heaped upon their guest,are too numerous to be all related; however I cannot refrain from stating the following.
The evening before our departure we had passed at the house of general Smith; whence we returned on foot accompanied only by two or three persons. Notwithstanding the lights which illuminated the street, we hoped to be able to pass through the crowd which was considerable, without being known, but the size and gait of general Lafayette betrayed us. He was recognized by some of the passers-by, and his name flying from mouth to mouth, brought the crowd immediately around us. Nevertheless we approached our place of residence, and were already rejoicing that we had not been too long delayed, when George Lafayette feeling himself strongly pulled by his coat, turned round and saw a most beautiful girl, who with her hands joined, and with the most touching voice, exclaimed “I beseech you to enable me but to touch him and you will make me happy.” General Lafayette hearing her, turned towards her and gave her his hand, which she seized and kissed with transport, after which she retreated concealing, her tears and blushes with her handkerchief. Such a circumstance, especially when it is not insulated, says more than the most skilful historian.
We visited in nearly all its details the city of Baltimore, which appeared to me to be one of the most handsome cities in the union. Although its streets are all very broad and regular, still they have not the monotony of those of Philadelphia. The ground upon which Baltimore is built is undulating, which gives to every part a character of variety: from several elevated points of the city, the eye can take in not only the whole of the buildings, but also a part of the port. The sparkling waters of the Patapsco, and the sombre forests which extend in the distance, seem placed there like shadows fit to bring out more strongly the magic picture of a city containing 60,000 souls, which has sprung up in half a century. The inhabitants of Baltimore generally have a decided taste for the fine arts. I have already said that it was to a Frenchman that they were indebted for their marked superiority in music, over almost all the cities in the union. They are also much indebted to a Frenchman for much of their good taste in architecture. Several of their public buildings are built from designsfurnished by Mr. Godefroy, who resided a long time in Baltimore. The Unitarian church is a masterpiece of elegance and simplicity. The battle monument (byCapellano) is of a chaste style and fine execution. The Washington monument (byMills) is considerably similar in its form and elevation to our column in the Place Vendôme, at Paris. It is built of beautiful white marble, and stands on a gentle elevation, whence it may be seen from various parts of the city, and it may be also seen from a great distance upon the water.
The harbour of Baltimore is safe and commodious; it occasionally happens, however, that it is frozen over in rigorous winters. Although two hundred miles from the sea, it is much frequented; the great number of navigable rivers which flow into the Chesapeake, makes Baltimore the centre of a very active internal commerce. Nevertheless, within a few years a very sensible diminution has taken place in the commercial activity of Baltimore, which is attributed to various causes. It is believed that these will be removed, or at least cease to operate prejudicially so soon as the Ohio rail road shall be completed.
Baltimore appears to me to be one of the most agreeable places of residence; its inhabitants although occupied ardently in all sorts of industry, do not neglect those studies which form the taste and enlarge the dominion of intellect. Several scientific societies exist there; one of them, theNewtonian Society of Maryland, formed in 1818, encourages with vigor the study of the natural sciences; the Economic Society, founded in 1819, is intended to forward manufactures and domestic economy. The Agricultural Society is not less remarkable than the others for the services it renders, and by the merit of its members. Before our departure, we were all three distinguished by being elected honorary members of this society. The cabinet of anatomy by Chiappi, (at the hospital,) the museum of natural history, the gallery of paintings by Rembrandt Peale, and the mineralogical collection of Mr. Gilmore, are beautiful and valuable. The city library is composed of about 14,000 volumes, and belongs entirely to the public. What tends to give a great charm to the advantages of the city of Baltimore, is its vicinity to Washington, the seat of the general government, which is about 35 miles distant; which,during the session of congress, offers great attraction to those who wish advantageously to attend to the political debates. However, at Baltimore, as throughout New England, Sunday is rather a dull day; religious observances are austere, though the most perfect liberty of conscience exists. The city contains at least twelve sects; the Catholics are the most numerous, and although thus superior in numerical force, the sect is as mild, as tolerant and as charitable as the others; because it is well known that it would meet with no support from government if it wished to intrigue and domineer as in some parts of Europe.
This city, so beautiful and interesting at present, was forty-five years ago, nothing but a small collection of badly built houses. In 1790, its population amounted suddenly to 13,500 inhabitants: in 1800, by the new census, it was found to contain 26,514: in 1810, 35,583: in 1820, 62,738; and in 1824, it amounted to 65,000, of which at least fifty thousand were whites, and eleven thousand free citizens of colour; the remaining four thousand were slaves. The numbers of the latter are fortunately daily diminishing: the progress of philanthropy, and of interest well understood, although slow, is nevertheless constant, and the friends of humanity have a right to hope that before many years the inhabitants of Baltimore will be disembarrassed from this pest of slavery, which might be called disgraceful if we were not aware how many obstacles have been surmounted to the present time, to abolish this horrible inheritance which England has bequeathed to the United States, as if to punish her for having broken her colonial yoke.
The luxury and the arts introduced into Baltimore, have not brought with them the effeminacy and corruption, which some persons believe to be their inseparable companions. The defence of Baltimore during the late war, sufficiently proves that the inhabitants are still, as in the glorious days of the revolution, passionate lovers of liberty, and courageous defenders of their independence. Their campaign of 1814, did them much honour, and pleads victoriously in favour of the militia system in a defensive war.[18]