CHAPTER IV.
Entrance into South Carolina—Route from Cheraw to Cambden—Monument erected to Baron de Kalb—Road from Cambden to Charleston—Rejoicing in Charleston—Colonel Huger—History, Institutions, and Manners of the South Carolinians.
Twenty-four hours after our departure from Fayetteville, in the midst of a pine forest, we met the deputation of the state of South Carolina to General Lafayette. This meeting took place on the confines of the two states. Our kind and amiable travelling companions from North Carolina delivered us to their neighbours, with the most lively expressions of regret at a separation which cost us as much as them, and we continued our route in new carriages, with a new escort of friends, till we arrived at Cheraw, a pretty little town, which, three years previous, had not more than four houses built, and now contains about fifteen hundred inhabitants. The next day’s journey was long and difficult; sometimes, indeed, the road was almost impassable, being, in some places, entirely cut up by the overflow of rivers, whilst in others we could only cross the marshes by moving gently over a road formed of badly arranged trunks of trees. In fact, we travelled so slowly, that night overtook us on the road, and it soon became so dark that many of the gentlemen of our escort lost the road, and not being able to trace it in the sand, wandered into the forest. The carriagesof the party also began to stray from each other, and towards ten o’clock Mr. George Lafayette and myself discovered that the one we rode in was at a great distance behind the others. A few minutes after we felt a violent shock, and heard a loud crash. Our carriage tongue was broken, and we were left in the midst of the marsh. Our situation was extremely disagreeable, and we should have had some difficulty to escape from it but for the assistance of two dragoons who had never left us, and who obliged us to mount their horses, which, after some minutes, brought us in sight of the fires of the guard surrounding the house that was to serve us for an asylum, where the general had arrived an hour before. In this house, which stood altogether alone in the midst of the woods, we were well accommodated. We had an excellent supper, and good beds, in which we might probably have slept soundly but for the trumpet, which was sounded all night for the purpose of rallying our scattered escort.
On arising, an entirely novel scene was presented to my view. We were in the midst of what is called in Americaa new settlement, that is to say, a clearing or erection of a new habitation in the woods. The house in which we had passed the night was the only dwelling in the place, and it was still unfinished. By its side they had begun to raise the frames of some other buildings, doubtless intended for granaries and stables. Numerous trunks of half hewn trees collected together showed that it was the intention of the owner soon to erect other buildings, and already the forest was prostrated to a considerable extent. But a few vast trees were standing in the clearing, whose branches were not only lopped off, but some of them were deprived of their bark, and blackened for their whole length by the action of the flames which had been employed to burn the brush about them. It is difficult to imagine any thing more desolate than such a scene. “It is, nevertheless, in this way,” said one of our travelling companions, “that all our little towns, which are so attractive and lively, begin. Cheraw, where you slept yesterday, and with which you were so much pleased, but a few years ago resembled this, and, perhaps, should you return in four or five years, you may here find another Cheraw. See,” continued he, taking me to a part of the forest which the axe and the fire hadstill spared, “with what care and skill the founder of this future city has laid the basis of a fortune which he anticipates enjoying in a short time. Look at this lot of several acres, surrounded by a strong fence, in which his cows, horses, and hogs are enclosed. These last named animals, raised thus at large, and in the enjoyment of abundance of food, soon multiply without number, and afford him a certain part of his subsistence. The next year, that portion of his land which comes to be cleared, will probably yield him a rich harvest of corn or rice; but the proprietor, whilst waiting for the growth of his crops, is obliged to obtain his bread by trading, and pays for it in turpentine, collected from the enormous pines which surround him. A small notch cut in the body of the tree, gives issue to a liquid which is received in a trough. Three thousand trees furnish annually seventy-five barrels of turpentine. But it is not only the young and vigorous trees which contribute to his wants; he has recourse also to those time has destroyed. From the dead trees he extracts tar, obtained by burning the wood upon a grate, a kettle being placed beneath to receive the boiling liquid. Sometimes from the plants which he clears away from around his house, he obtains a considerable quantity of potash, which still augments his wealth. Every year sees the cleared land increase around him, and soon othersettlers, encouraged by his success, place themselves about him, and assist in erecting the new village, in which he may be permitted to enjoy the public employments conferred by his fellow citizens as a tribute to his talents and patriotism.”
Whilst we were thus engaged in casting a rapid glance over the resources of our host and his future destinies, General Lafayette concluded the preparations for his departure, and, at a signal given by the trumpets, we resumed our journey, passing through the sands and pines on our way to Cambden, where we were to lodge. The weather had changed during the night, and our march was now favoured by a clear sky. Although it was the month of March, we felt the heat of the sun considerably, and every thing around bore the appearance of advanced spring. On approaching Cambden, where we saw a considerable number of well cultivated gardens, we were a good deal surprised to find the trees in flower, and the balmy airperfumed by the plants, as in France during the month of June.
Cambden is not a large town, containing only about two hundred inhabitants. We nevertheless found there a very numerous population, collected from more than eighty miles around, to receive General Lafayette, and assist in laying the corner stone of a monument which they were about erecting to the memoir of Baron de Kalb. General Lafayette was received a little in advance of the town, near the old quarters of Cornwallis, by all the citizens under arms, and was conducted with great pomp, and in the midst of companies of young ladies, to the dwelling prepared for him, where he was addressed by Colonel Nixons, Jr. with a remarkable warmth of feeling. The attentive crowd applauded the orator with transports, when he told the general that his visit to the United States had added a new page to history, and that the splendour of Greek and Roman triumphs faded before the unanimity and harmony of this popular ovation.
On the morning of the next day, a long procession, formed chiefly of free masons, followed by the civil authorities and deputations from the different associations of South Carolina, came to the general’s lodgings, and conducted him with solemn music towards the spot where De Kalb’s funeral ceremony was to be performed. There the consecration of the monument raised by the generous inhabitants of South Carolina to unfortunate bravery, was performed. An inscription, in a style at once noble and unaffected, reminds the country of the services and glorious end of De Kalb.
It is well known that De Kalb was a German, who, after he had served a long time in France, came to America, like Lafayette and Pulaski, to offer his services in the cause of liberty. He was second in command in General Gates’s army during the unfortunate affair of Cambden, where the Americans were completely defeated. He had performed prodigies of valour at the head of the Delaware and Maryland troops, when, towards the close of the battle, he fell from his eleventh wound, an event which deprived the American cause of one of its most able and devoted defenders.
After his remains, which had been carefully preserved,were deposited in the monument, and had received military honours, the stone which was to cover them was laid by General Lafayette. It contained the following inscription:—This stone was placed over the remains of Baron De Kalb by General Lafayette, 1825.
The hand of the general resting upon the stone, followed it as it slowly and gradually descended, whilst the multitude, in religious silence, contemplated the French veteran, after almost half a century, rendering the last offices to the German soldier, in a land which they both had moistened with their blood, and which their arms had contributed to set free. How many glorious and painful recollections must this scene have awakened in the mind of Lafayette! Alas! during his long triumph, how many tombs was it his lot to visit, from that into which he descended at Mount Vernon, to the one soon to be raised at Bunker’s Hill!
The ceremony concluded by a discourse from the general, in which he paid to his old companion in arms, that tribute of esteem which was due to his civil virtues, his military talents, and undaunted courage, in defending the cause of freedom.
We left Cambden on the 11th, to go to Columbia, the capital of the state of South Carolina. This town is pleasantly situated upon a fertile and healthy plain, on the shore of the river Congaree. We found all the streets, through which the general and his escort were to pass, ornamented with flags and triumphal arches. Upon one of these, three young and beautiful girls supported flags, upon each of which were inscribed, in letters of gold, the names of Lafayette, De Kalb, and Pulaski. Under another, placed near the house we were to occupy, the general was met and addressed by the mayor of the town, a young man of distinguished talents, who, during our stay at Columbia, paid us the most kind and delicate attentions. Governor Manning also addressed the general, in the presence of the people assembled in the legislative hall of South Carolina, and both the evening and morning were devoted to public rejoicings.
The first evening, after having passed through the streets, which were brilliantly illuminated, we paid a visit to the academy, under the superintendence of the celebrated Dr.Cooper. We were agreeably entertained by the professors, who are all of the first merit. Two of them spoke French with great fluency. They informed us, that they had resided a long time in Paris, where they were proud to have acquired that knowledge which they were called upon to impart to their pupils. The next day, several companies of militia, among which a corps formed by the students of the academy, under the name of Lafayette Guards, were distinguished, came to exercise under the general’s windows. We passed the remainder of the day, in the midst of some of Lafayette’s veteran companions in arms, who took a pleasure in recalling to his memory, the times in which they had fought and suffered with him for the independence of their country. In the evening, at a ball, rendered remarkable by the beauty of the ladies gracing it, as well as for the good taste displayed in the arrangements, we made acquaintance with a young lady who inspired us with the most lively interest. She was the wife of one of the professors. Born in Paris, she had only been transplanted into this new soil about three months, in the midst of manners which at first were altogether strange, but with which she now appeared perfectly reconciled. She was introduced to the general, who received her with great kindness. Towards the close of the evening, her French and American feelings, strongly excited by the testimonials of friendship and admiration she saw lavished upon Lafayette, suddenly broke forth in transports which she was unable to suppress. “Heavens!” exclaimed she, “how proud and happy I feel, to-day, in being a native of France, and of the same country with General Lafayette!” Then, after having sprung towards the general and kissed his hands, she returned to me with great animation, and said: “Tell the general’s family, I beseech you, how happy we should be to receive them here as we have received him! And say to them, that for myself, I feel for the children of La Grange the friendship of a countrywoman, and for Lafayette himself the gratitude of an American.” This scene made a lively impression upon all who witnessed it, and the general thanked the young lady with all the ardour of a strongly agitated heart.
On the 14th of March, we set out for Charleston, intendingto lodge some miles from this city, as General Lafayette was not to make his entry until the 15th. An escort of Columbia volunteer cavalry were formed in line before the door, at the moment of our departure, anxious to accompany the general all the way to Charleston; but he thanked them, and insisted that they should not leave the town, as the road he had to travel was both long and difficult, and there was moreover the appearance of a heavy rain. It was, in fact, at a very late hour that we arrived at our destination. The night and the rain caught us in the midst of a thick forest, across which it was difficult to find our narrow and devious way. About nine o’clock in the evening, the carriage I rode in broke down. That of the general, which went before with the governor and some officers of his staff, continued its route without perceiving the accident; but that of Mr. George Lafayette, which at this time happened to be in the rear, found its passage obstructed, and the horses taking fright, plunged amongst the trees, where it stuck fast. Mr. George, and his travelling companions, Colonel Preston and the Mayor of Columbia, immediately alighted, and, by main strength, dragged their carriage before mine. They offered me a seat along with them to continue the journey, directing the servants to mount the horses and go in search of light and assistance to repair the broken vehicle. I accepted their offer, but had scarcely joined them, when Colonel Preston, who had taken the reins, deceived by the darkness, carried us into the thickest of the woods, and in such a situation, that we must have infallibly upset had we proceeded a step further. Nothing was left for us now, but to remain nearly an hour, under a driving rain, for the return of the servants, who brought with them great pine torches. They now assisted us out of our embarrassment, and at eleven o’clock at night, wet and extremely fatigued, we reached the house of Mr. Izard, where we found the general and his companions, who had arrived a long time before. The hospitable table of Mr. Izard, his kind reception and that of his family, soon made us forget our misfortunes, at which we were the first to laugh over the dessert.
That the citizens of Charleston, who had made immense preparation to receive the guest of the nation, might not be kept waiting, we resumed our journey at a very early hour.At the moment when we were preparing to take leave of the family of Mr. Izard, we saw an escort of volunteer cavalry arrive from the city, with which we immediately set out. In proportion as we advanced towards Charleston, the monotony of pine forests disappeared. Our eyes now rested with pleasure upon clusters of verdant and beautifully shaped saplings, among which superb magnolias were majestically elevated. The entrance to the city appeared to us like a delicious garden. The coolness of the night had condensed the perfumes from the orange, peach, and almond trees, covered with flowers, and embalmed the air. We stopped a few minutes to change the carriage and allow the procession time to form, when, on a signal given by a cannon, we commenced our entrance into Charleston.
The inhabitants of Charleston, as residents of the city which had received the young Lafayette on his first arrival on American ground, in 1776, were eager to prove that no where more than among themselves, had a stronger recollection of his devotion to the cause of liberty been preserved. Accordingly, the reception which they gave him may be compared, for the splendour of its decorations and public enthusiasm, to the finest we had seen in the principal cities in the United States. The militia of Charleston were joined by the militia from the most distant parts of the state. Some companies of volunteer cavalry had, we were told, marched fifty miles a day to take the post assigned them by their patriotic gratitude.
Among the various corps which left the city to meet the general, there was one which particularly attracted our attention. Its uniform was precisely similar to that worn by the national guard of Paris at the time of the French revolution. The language in which the men composing this corps sounded forth theirvivat, when the general passed before them, showed us that they were Frenchmen, and we experienced a pleasing emotion on hearing our countrymen unite their voices with those of liberty and gratitude.
The French company joined the procession, and, actuated by a sentiment of extreme delicacy, the Americans ceded to them the place of honour, near the carriage of the general. The procession was soon increased by a great number of parties, composed of the clergy, associationof Cincinnati, veterans of the revolutionary army, students of the different faculties, officers of the United States army and navy, judges of the different courts, children of the public schools, German, French, Jewish, and Hibernian beneficent societies, the association of mechanics, &c. &c. All these detachments were distinguished by the form, colour, and devices of their flags; and the rest of the population following on foot and on horseback, made the air resound with cries ofWelcome, Lafayette, which sounds, for nearly two hours without intermission, were mingled with the thunder of cannon from the shipping in port, and the ringing of all the bells. But amidst all these expressions of public affection, that which penetrated the general’s heart most was the touching and generous plan adopted by the citizens of Charleston to share the honours of his triumph with his brave and excellent friend Colonel Huger.
It is well known that during his imprisonment in the fortress of Olmutz, General Lafayette was upon the point of being liberated by the devotion of two men whom the same generous feelings had associated in this dangerous enterprize. These were Dr. Bollman, a German physician, and young Huger, an American, son of a descendant of a French family proscribed by the revocation of the edict of Nantes, in whose house Lafayette was received on his first landing in Charleston. A series of unfortunate incidents caused the failure of this generous attempt, which nearly cost them their lives, and occasioned Lafayette to be treated, by his keepers, with increased severity. Upon his release from the Austrian dungeons, young Huger returned to his country, where he found, in the esteem of the public, the reward of his noble and perilous enterprize. At present the father of a family, a planter, and colonel of militia, he lives retired and generally beloved, on a fine estate within a few leagues of Charleston. General Lafayette had already enjoyed the pleasure of pressing him to his grateful heart, upon his arrival at New York. When we entered Charleston, his fellow citizens insisted upon his taking a place by the side of the nation’s guest, in his triumphal car, where he shared the public felicitations and plaudits. At the feast, at the theatre, or ball, every where, in fact, the name of Huger was inscribed by the side of that of Lafayette, upon whom the citizens of Charlestoncould confer no greater favour, than by testifying such a high degree of gratitude for one who had formerly exposed himself in attempting to restore him to liberty.
After the procession had passed through all parts of the town, it halted at the court-house, where the mayor, at the head of the municipal authorities, and in the presence of the people, addressed General Lafayette.
The acclamations of the people followed the words of the orator, and the reply of the general, who, with an eloquence rendered more impressive by the grateful feelings of his heart, recalled the ancient obligations which he owed the citizens of Charleston, the noble devotion of the ladies of this patriotic city, and the courage of the Carolinians during the whole course of the revolution.
Colonel Drayton also addressed the general on behalf of the association of Cincinnati, after which we were conducted to the sumptuous lodgings prepared for us, where, during the whole of the next day, the general received the visits of all the corporations of the city. The company of French fusileers we had observed on entering the city, presented themselves first, the martial music at its head, saluting the general with the two patriotic airs ofYankee Doodleand theMarseillois. Mr. Labatut and one of his companions then addressed the object of their homage, after which the company filed off before him, blending with the military honours they paid him, testimonies of the most tender affection. When the general complimented the officers on the fineness of their discipline, and good taste of their uniform, “We could not,” said they, “have chosen one more honourable. Lafayette and our fathers wore it in the glorious days of liberty in our country, and it incessantly reminds us that the first duties of an armed citizen are, the maintenance of public order, and the defence of the rights of man.” We passed among these brave men some delicious moments, consecrated to the recollections of our country. All spoke of it with tenderness and enthusiasm, all expressed ardent wishes for her happiness. Among them were some exiles!
Shortly after the French company had retired, we saw all the members of the clergy arrive, assembled under the direction of the Rev. Dr. Farnham, whom they had chosen for their orator. Among them were seen Episcopalians,Presbyterians, Jews, Roman Catholics, and German and French Protestants. To witness their touching union, and the testimonies of their reciprocal liberality, one might have thought that they all belonged to the same communion. I cannot introduce here the long and eloquent discourse of Dr. Farnham, but I can assert, that, like that pronounced by Bishop White of Philadelphia, it confirmed what I had heard of the liberality of the clergy, which, without the support of a government that seems ignorant of their existence, feels the necessity of conciliating public esteem by the practice of true virtue.
I pass over the account of the balls, displays of artificial fire-works, and entertainments given during our stay in Charleston, since it would be nearly a repetition of what I have already said in relation to so many cities. But, leaving the general surrounded by his old fellow soldiers, at the head of whom he still found the worthy General Pinckney, to be entertained with the glorious recollections of their youthful days, I shall attempt a rapid sketch of the history of South Carolina.
This portion of the North American continent was explored for the first time by Jean Ponce de Leon, the Spanish governor of Porto-Rico. Struck with the beauty of the vegetation, and the smiling aspect of the country, he gave it the beautiful name of Florida. But not finding either gold or silver mines, he gave up the plan of forming a settlement. For a long time this country was coveted by the kings of France, England, and Spain; but it was not till the year 1562 that France decided upon asserting her claims. At the request of Admiral Coligny, who was desirous of finding an asylum for the protestant party, a naval officer named Ribaut, a native of Dieppe, was despatched with two vessels and troops to survey the coast and form a settlement. Jean Ribaut landed at the mouth of a river, under the thirtieth degree of latitude, and established the right of possession by the erection of a stone column, upon which he engraved the arms of France. After remaining some time upon the coast, during which he entered into treaties of peace with the natives of the country, he arrived at the mouth of Albemarle river, where he formed his first settlement, which he called Carolina, in honour of Charles IX. He raised for its protection a small fort, which hegarrisoned with about forty men, and leaving it under the command of one of his officers named Albert, returned to France. This governor being very severe in carrying into effect the discipline he had established, was soon murdered by his soldiers, who, anxious to return to their country, very soon embarked, and sailed for France. But scarcely had they lost sight of the coast when they experienced such a dead calm as kept them so long at sea that their provisions became exhausted; and they had already begun to devour each other, when they were met by an English vessel, which carried them to England, where queen Elizabeth made them relate to her, with their own lips, the account of their horrible adventures.
Two years afterwards, a new expedition sailed under the command of Réné de Landonnière, to establish and protect the colony; but whether owing to misfortune, or want of knowledge in the leader, the expedition was attended with the most melancholy results. The complaints of the colonists against Landonnière reached France, and determined the government to send out Ribaut to take charge of their affairs. This person was surprised at the mouth of May river by a Spanish squadron of six vessels, which attacked him so fiercely that he could only escape by entering the river. Determined to resist the Spaniards with vigour, Ribaut landed his men, carefully entrenched them, and going in search of the best troops of Landonnière, whom he left in Fort Carolina, with all those who were unable to bear arms, embarked again to pursue the enemy. But he was assailed during the night by a violent storm which drove his vessels upon the rocks. It was with the greatest difficulty that he and his companions gained the shore to surrender themselves to the Spaniards, by whom they were basely murdered without mercy. The sick, together with the women and children who remained in the fort, met with the same fate. Landonnière, and a few of his family, were all that escaped, and after a long time, succeeded almost by a miracle in getting back to France, where they carried the news of the melancholy end of their companions. By the court of France the horrible event was treated with indifference, but the public did not conceal its indignation, and many of the most influential men demanded vengeance. One of these, namedDominic de Gourges, a gentleman of Gascony, resolved upon being the avenger of his countrymen. He fitted out three vessels at his own expense, took on board two hundred soldiers and eighty marines, arrived at the mouth of the river May, where he showed himself under the Spanish flag, landed under this disguise without being recognized, marched rapidly upon Fort Carolina, of which, with two others, aided by the natives, he soon obtained possession, conquered the Spanish garrisons, razed the fortifications, and returned in triumph to France laden with booty. This daring enterprise struck terror into the Spaniards, and for ever disgusted them of Carolina, which, until the reign of Charles II. of England, was abandoned to all the nations of Europe.
It was at this time that the English government, who had previously made a settlement at the mouth of May River, under pretext of protecting some families who had escaped the tomahawk of the Indians in Virginia, took possession of all the country, situated between the 31st and 36th degrees of latitude, and granted it to eight gentlemen of the court, the king,as proprietary of the royal castle of Greenwich, reserving to himself supreme authority, together with the fourth part of all the gold and silver which might be found within the bounds of the territory. The celebrated Locke was appointed to prepare a charter for the new colony. By this constitution a species of royalty was transferred to the oldest of the colonists, supported by an aristocracy which exhibited the whimsical assemblage of lords, barons, landgraves and caciques, whose powers and pretensions incessantly coming into collision, were soon subjected to the tyranny of the palatine, for such was the title of the superior officer whose precedence was derived entirely from his age. This constitution, the abortive conception of a great genius, was destroyed in 1720. The population of the colony soon increased rapidly, in consequence of the political and religious persecutions, which at that period desolated Europe. It received, almost at the same time, English royalists, the parliamentists, and the non-conformists. France sent the choicest of her citizens, proscribed by the edict of Nantes. In 1730, the mountains of Scotland saw their vanquished inhabitants going thither in search of an asylum; and in 1745, it was further enriched by the arrival of Swiss and German emigrants. From thistime Carolina began to be sensible of its strength, and to resist the abuse of power manifested by the English government. She refused to pay taxes imposed without her consent, and gave her sanction to the resolutions of the colonial congress, to which she sent deputies in 1765. Nevertheless, when, in 1775, it was resolved to break the chain which united Carolina to the mother country, a division of opinion occurred among the colonists, a considerable number of whom armed in favour of the British government. A civil war was near breaking out, when a very extraordinary occurrence led to the reconciliation of the parties. On the same day that hostilities commenced at Lexington in Massachusetts, despatches from England arrived at Charleston. The revolutionary committee seized the mail containing the letters addressed to the governors of Virginia, the two Carolinas, Georgia and East Florida, by which they were directed to employ the force of arms to reduce the colonies to subjection. About the same time, intelligence was received at Savannah, of an act of parliament, authorising these governors to deprive the colonists of the protection of the law and royal privilege, and confiscate their property.
These various accounts having been published by the committee, inspired all the citizens with the same sentiments of indignation, and the councils being immediately called together, the question was proposed,Shall we die slaves, or live free?The reply could not be doubtful. All swore to take up arms and defend their rights. Some indiscreet tories, who attempted to maintain possession of the country by the assistance of Indians, whom they had taken into pay, were soon annihilated by the patriotic militia, who, after a long and painful struggle against the English troops of Savannah, at length secured the independence of Carolina by the celebrated victory gained at Eutau Spring, in the year 1781.
It was in the midst of the troubles of war, in the year 1778, that Carolina formed her first constitution. This, though very much in conformity with the principles of the revolution, perhaps exhibited some indications of the haste with which it was prepared. It was revised, modified, and adopted in its present form, at Columbia, on the 30th of June, 1790. Such as it now is, it would be considered inEurope highly democratic; but, compared with the constitution of Pennsylvania, for example, and those of some other states in the Union, it appears altogether aristocratic. The conditions imposed upon the candidates for governor, senators, and members of the assembly, restrict the eligible to a very small number. The senators, chosen every four years, to the number of forty-three, must be at least thirty years of age, have resided in the state five years previous to the election, and possess an unincumbered property worth three hundred pounds sterling. Should the candidate not dwell in the district by which he is supported, his property must be worth a thousand pounds sterling.
The representatives, to the number of twenty-four, are elected for two years. They must be free white men, at least twenty-one years of age, and the owners of property worth one hundred and fifty pounds sterling, or instead, a plantation containing five hundred acres, and ten slaves. Should the candidate not reside in the district where he is supported, the value of his property is required to be five hundred pounds. He must be a citizen of the state, in which he shall have lived at least three years previous to the election.
It is obvious that both houses of the legislature are composed of a portion of the richest proprietors only. It is from this legislative power, blemished as it is with aristocracy, that the executive authority springs; for it is by the union of the two houses that the governor, in whom this power resides, is chosen. The conditions of eligibility for governor are very high, and restrict the choice to a very small circle. Every candidate for this office must be thirty years of age, a citizen of the state, in which he must have resided at least ten years previous to the election, and possess a clear estate worth fifteen hundred pounds sterling. The powers of the governor only continue for two years. The worst condition in the constitution is that imposing an obligation on the senators to own slaves. I am well aware that it must necessarily disappear before the abolition of slavery takes place, but does it not appear to be placed there as an obstacle to abolition? And might not the repeal of this article prove a salutary effort in favour of abolition?
As in all the other states of the Union, religious organization is in no way connected with government, which onlyguarantees to the various sects the free exercise of their religious rites, so long as such a privilege is unattended by licentiousness, or is compatible with the peace and security of the state. Ministers of religion are ineligible to the office of governor, lieutenant-governor, and member of assembly, so long as they continue in the exercise of their pastoral functions. The sects are numerous and variable, as one may easily perceive from the composition of the religious body that waited upon General Lafayette. It may, perhaps, have been observed, that it was only whilst speaking of the sects in South Carolina, that I mentioned the Jews. It is, in fact, in this state alone, that they appear sufficiently numerous to attract attention. Their number is computed at about twelve hundred, of whom the city of Charleston contains about five hundred, who, during the late war, distinguished themselves by their courage and patriotism, furnishing a company of sixty volunteers for the defence of the country. The rest of the United States contains little more than five thousand Israelites, the most of whom are of English and German origin. Those of South Carolina are more particularly of French and Portuguese descent. The synagogue in Charleston was built in the year 1794. Previous to this time the Jewish congregation of this city had only a small place for the exercise of their religious rites. According to Dr. Theact’s description of Charleston, the Israelites began to form into a society about the year 1750. As soon as ten of them had united, (for this is the number required by the Hebrew law for the public exercise of their religion,) they procured a place convenient for their purpose. The present edifice is spacious and elegant. The society that built it is calledKalh kadosh beth Eloem, that is to say, the religious society of the house of God.Kalh, orsociety, is the name common to the whole Hebrew congregation. The actual number of subscribing members is about seventy, which gives rather more than three hundred persons having the privilege of the synagogue, as well as the other advantages connected with this privilege. The society of Reformists amount to about fifty members, which, with their families, make above two hundred of this order.
South Carolina is situated between the 32d and 33d degrees of latitude. Its superficies contains about twenty-ninethousand square miles, the soil being very variable. From the coast of the Atlantic to about twenty-four miles within the interior, the country is a vast plain rising imperceptibly about two hundred feet above the level of the sea; its surface is divided into forests of pine, which grow in a sandy soil of little value; extensive morasses, which render the air insalubrious during the autumn; savannas, which produce only grass; and higher lands, which are adapted to the growth of cotton. Rice is cultivated with success near the rivers, whose inundations fertilize their borders. Beyond the plain the country is mountainous, productive, and more healthy than the lower districts, where the humidity of the rivers, and the changeableness of temperature during the whole season, render diseases very common.
This state contains 502,741 inhabitants, who may be divided into three classes; 237,460 free whites, 6,806 free blacks, and 258,465 slaves. It appears, that the number of slaves considerably surpasses that of the free whites, so that this state has begun to feel the inconveniences of slavery to such a degree, that fear has induced them to adopt measures of safety, which infringe both the laws of humanity and the rights of property. By a recent law, every traveller, who enters Carolina with a black servant, finds that he is immediately taken from him, imprisoned, and only returned to him when he is about to leave the state. What is the utility of this measure, is a question I find myself very much embarrassed to answer. It is, say they, to prevent dangerous communications, between the slaves of that state and the free black strangers, who never fail to talk to them of liberty.
This state of things in relation to slavery in South Carolina, is the more distressing from its singular contrast with the character of the inhabitants of that state. The Carolinians are particularly distinguished for the cultivation of their minds, the elegance of their manners, their politeness and hospitality towards strangers. This last virtue is so common in Carolina, that one finds very few taverns out of the large towns. Travellers may boldly present themselves at the houses of the planters which they find on their road, and are sure of being well received. The disposition to assist the indigent is so great at Charleston, thatbesides a great many private associations, they have five public charitable societies, whose revenues, already very considerable, are still daily increased by the liberality of the citizens.
The three days which General Lafayette passed at Charleston were marked by entertainments whose brilliancy and refinement delighted him; but of all the delicate attentions that were paid him, the most touching, perhaps, was the gift, made him by the city, of a beautiful portrait of his friend Colonel Huger. This beautiful miniature, of an appropriate size, unites the merit of perfect likeness with the most admirable execution. It strongly resembles the style of our celebrated Isabey, and would not have been disowned by him. It was executed by Mr. Frazer of Charleston, who already enjoys a great reputation in the United States, but has probably surpassed himself in this work. The frame of solid gold, is more valuable for the elegance and delicacy of the workmanship than the richness of its material. It came from the workshop of two artists of Philadelphia, and would have done honour to our most experienced French jewellers.
The governor presented the general, in the name of the state, with a beautiful map of South Carolina, enclosed in a rich case of silver. Many other persons came also to offer handsome keepsakes, which he gratefully accepted.
On the 17th of March he left Charleston, carrying with him the regrets of his friends, and the blessings of the people.