CHAPTER II.THE COURT AND IMPLEMENTS OF THE GAME.Thecourt is 78 ft. long. It is 27 ft. wide for the single game, and 36 ft. for the double game. At most club-grounds a measuring-chain is used to mark out the court, but for a private court a chain is seldom at hand. The easiest way to mark out a court without a chain is to use two long measures. Select the place for the net; then measure 36 ft. across; at each end put in a peg, and over each peg slip the ring of a measure. On one measure take 39 ft., and on the other 53 ft. ¾ in.; pull both taut, and the place where the two ends meet will be one corner of the court. Put in a peg at 21 ft. from the net for the end of the service-line. Next transpose the measures and repeat the same process. This will give the other corner of the court, and at 21 ft. will be the other end of the service-line, and one half of your court is ready. Take exactly the same measures on the other side of the net, and the measurement of your court is complete. The side-lines of the single court are made by marking off 4 ft. 6 in. from each end of the base-lines, and running lines parallel to the side-lines of the double court from one base-line to the other. Everything necessary is thus found except the central-line, which runs from the middle of one service-line to the middle of the other.The posts of the net stand 3 ft. outside of the side-lines. If the court is intended for double play only, the inner side-lines need not be carried farther from the net than the service-lines. If a single court only is to be marked out, the diagonal is about 47 ft. 5 in., instead of 53 ft. ¾ in.Net.—The net should be bound along the top with heavy white cotton or duck, to the depth of two or three inches. Without this binding it is very difficult to see the top of the net in a bad light. The most important points in a net are that the meshes should be too small to allow a ball to pass through them, and that the twine should not be so large as to obstruct the view of the opposite court.Shoes.—There is little to say about shoes, although one’s comfort depends a great deal on them. They should be a little too large, with the toes square or round, but never pointed. Those made of buckskin, with leather straps over the toes, are the most comfortable. For the soles no rubber compares with steel points—i.e., small nails about five-eighths of an inch long, driven into the sole of the shoe, and protruding from it about one-quarter to three-eighths of an inch. Points injure the ground less than rubber, as to a great degree they prevent slipping. For gravel or asphalt the best soles are made of very soft red rubber, which lasts a long time and is very easy to the feet.Balls.—Ayres’s balls are used at every tournament of importance in England, and, while this is the case, it is necessary for tournament players to practise with them, though those of some other manufacturers are quite as good for ordinary play.Rackets.—The choice of a racket is an important matter, and it is also a difficult one. Young players seem to take pleasure in selecting the most extraordinary rackets in a shop. Let me strongly advise them to avoid all unusual handles, heads, or methods of stringing. All these eccentricities are useless at the best. Nothing is so good as the simplest form of racket, possessing an octagonal handle, and strung in the usual way. Such a racket is used by all the better match-players in England. Opinions differ as to what the exact size of the head should be, but it is certain that there is nothing to be gained by having it square or triangular. Again, the edges of the rim should not be bevelled. It only weakens the frame, while it does not increase the size of the playing face of a racket in the smallest degree. A ball must be hit almost exactly in the centre of the racket to make a stroke at all, for, if hit so near the edge that the bevelled rim can affect it, it cannot possibly go any distance.As regards the proper weight of a racket, 14½ oz. is heavy enough for any one. I know of only two of the well-known players who use heavier rackets than this. I should advise any one learning to play to get a racket of 14¼ oz., and he can afterwards get one of 14½ oz. should he feel that his first one is too light. There can be no question that a light racket can be more easily brought round than a heavy one, and is more easily controlled in every way. On the other hand, a racket must have wood enough in the frame to make it perfectly unyielding when striking a ball, and must be heavy enough to give an effective stroke. These conditions are fulfilled in a racket of 14¼ to 14½ oz.; alighter one loses something in power, and a heavier one is unmanageable for most men. One meets from time to time a player with a racket of 15 or 15½ oz., who shows it with pride, and explains that his wrist is so strong that he requires an unusual racket. As a matter of fact, such a player seldom uses his wrist at all, but rather he should be thankful for the advantage that a good wrist gives him, instead of handicapping himself by using an absurdly heavy racket. Almost more important than the weight of the racket is its balance. By balance is meant the way in which a racket hangs in the hand. Many rackets of 14 oz. feel as heavy as others of 14½ oz. There is only one way of judging the balance, and that is by holding the racket by the end of the handle, as if in actual play, and trying how it comes up, and if it feels light or heavy. If it comes up heavily, discard it at once and try another. Should it feel light and easily managed, weigh it yourself, no matter whether the weight is stamped on it or not. It may be that it felt well balanced only because it was too light for use; but should it be found to weigh 14¼—14½ oz., the balance of it must be good. You should look carefully at the workmanship and see that the wood is free from knots and cracks. The grain should run evenly round the whole frame. Look especially at the parts of the hoop, just above the centre-piece, for there it is that a racket usually breaks. See also that the wedge is quite firm. Choose a racket in which the wood is left in the natural state, as varnish, &c., is often used to conceal a flaw.A racket should be very nearly, if not quite, straightFor myself, I prefer one with a very slight bend to one side, but I can give no reason for doing so.No player should have a racket that he cannot hold absolutely stiff from the very end of the handle. It is essential that a racket should be light enough for him to volley with it at the very end of his reach without any yielding in his wrist. If his wrist is not strong enough to stand this strain with a racket of the usual weight, it is better for him to use a lighter one. Though losing something in the severity of his strokes, he will gain enough in sureness to more than make up for it.How to hold the Racket—One finds many different ways of holding the racket among good players, and no exact rule has ever been received as correct. Still, nearly all good players observe certain principles in holding a racket. It is of the first importance that you should be able to play a ball either fore- or back-handed without changing your hold on the racket. If the hold is changed, there is always danger of not getting the racket into the right position quickly enough. Such a change must require a certain amount of time and attention, which cannot well be spared in sharp play. The method that I should recommend is as follows:—Lay the racket on a table with the smooth side up. Open the hand with the thumb nearly at right angles to the fingers, and then clasp the handle in such a way as to make its upper right edge (or what would be its right edge if it were cut square) fit into the hollow of the joint between the thumb and forefinger. In closing the fingers on the handle, do not put them directly round it, but with the first joint of each finger slanting up the handle, which will cause the top joints to slant down theother way. The first two fingers should be a little separated from the other fingers, and from each other. The end of the handle should be well within the hand, with the little finger round the leather rim. The thumb should not go round on to the ends of the fingers, but should slope upwards across the upper side of the handle.
Thecourt is 78 ft. long. It is 27 ft. wide for the single game, and 36 ft. for the double game. At most club-grounds a measuring-chain is used to mark out the court, but for a private court a chain is seldom at hand. The easiest way to mark out a court without a chain is to use two long measures. Select the place for the net; then measure 36 ft. across; at each end put in a peg, and over each peg slip the ring of a measure. On one measure take 39 ft., and on the other 53 ft. ¾ in.; pull both taut, and the place where the two ends meet will be one corner of the court. Put in a peg at 21 ft. from the net for the end of the service-line. Next transpose the measures and repeat the same process. This will give the other corner of the court, and at 21 ft. will be the other end of the service-line, and one half of your court is ready. Take exactly the same measures on the other side of the net, and the measurement of your court is complete. The side-lines of the single court are made by marking off 4 ft. 6 in. from each end of the base-lines, and running lines parallel to the side-lines of the double court from one base-line to the other. Everything necessary is thus found except the central-line, which runs from the middle of one service-line to the middle of the other.The posts of the net stand 3 ft. outside of the side-lines. If the court is intended for double play only, the inner side-lines need not be carried farther from the net than the service-lines. If a single court only is to be marked out, the diagonal is about 47 ft. 5 in., instead of 53 ft. ¾ in.
Net.—The net should be bound along the top with heavy white cotton or duck, to the depth of two or three inches. Without this binding it is very difficult to see the top of the net in a bad light. The most important points in a net are that the meshes should be too small to allow a ball to pass through them, and that the twine should not be so large as to obstruct the view of the opposite court.
Shoes.—There is little to say about shoes, although one’s comfort depends a great deal on them. They should be a little too large, with the toes square or round, but never pointed. Those made of buckskin, with leather straps over the toes, are the most comfortable. For the soles no rubber compares with steel points—i.e., small nails about five-eighths of an inch long, driven into the sole of the shoe, and protruding from it about one-quarter to three-eighths of an inch. Points injure the ground less than rubber, as to a great degree they prevent slipping. For gravel or asphalt the best soles are made of very soft red rubber, which lasts a long time and is very easy to the feet.
Balls.—Ayres’s balls are used at every tournament of importance in England, and, while this is the case, it is necessary for tournament players to practise with them, though those of some other manufacturers are quite as good for ordinary play.
Rackets.—The choice of a racket is an important matter, and it is also a difficult one. Young players seem to take pleasure in selecting the most extraordinary rackets in a shop. Let me strongly advise them to avoid all unusual handles, heads, or methods of stringing. All these eccentricities are useless at the best. Nothing is so good as the simplest form of racket, possessing an octagonal handle, and strung in the usual way. Such a racket is used by all the better match-players in England. Opinions differ as to what the exact size of the head should be, but it is certain that there is nothing to be gained by having it square or triangular. Again, the edges of the rim should not be bevelled. It only weakens the frame, while it does not increase the size of the playing face of a racket in the smallest degree. A ball must be hit almost exactly in the centre of the racket to make a stroke at all, for, if hit so near the edge that the bevelled rim can affect it, it cannot possibly go any distance.
As regards the proper weight of a racket, 14½ oz. is heavy enough for any one. I know of only two of the well-known players who use heavier rackets than this. I should advise any one learning to play to get a racket of 14¼ oz., and he can afterwards get one of 14½ oz. should he feel that his first one is too light. There can be no question that a light racket can be more easily brought round than a heavy one, and is more easily controlled in every way. On the other hand, a racket must have wood enough in the frame to make it perfectly unyielding when striking a ball, and must be heavy enough to give an effective stroke. These conditions are fulfilled in a racket of 14¼ to 14½ oz.; alighter one loses something in power, and a heavier one is unmanageable for most men. One meets from time to time a player with a racket of 15 or 15½ oz., who shows it with pride, and explains that his wrist is so strong that he requires an unusual racket. As a matter of fact, such a player seldom uses his wrist at all, but rather he should be thankful for the advantage that a good wrist gives him, instead of handicapping himself by using an absurdly heavy racket. Almost more important than the weight of the racket is its balance. By balance is meant the way in which a racket hangs in the hand. Many rackets of 14 oz. feel as heavy as others of 14½ oz. There is only one way of judging the balance, and that is by holding the racket by the end of the handle, as if in actual play, and trying how it comes up, and if it feels light or heavy. If it comes up heavily, discard it at once and try another. Should it feel light and easily managed, weigh it yourself, no matter whether the weight is stamped on it or not. It may be that it felt well balanced only because it was too light for use; but should it be found to weigh 14¼—14½ oz., the balance of it must be good. You should look carefully at the workmanship and see that the wood is free from knots and cracks. The grain should run evenly round the whole frame. Look especially at the parts of the hoop, just above the centre-piece, for there it is that a racket usually breaks. See also that the wedge is quite firm. Choose a racket in which the wood is left in the natural state, as varnish, &c., is often used to conceal a flaw.
A racket should be very nearly, if not quite, straightFor myself, I prefer one with a very slight bend to one side, but I can give no reason for doing so.
No player should have a racket that he cannot hold absolutely stiff from the very end of the handle. It is essential that a racket should be light enough for him to volley with it at the very end of his reach without any yielding in his wrist. If his wrist is not strong enough to stand this strain with a racket of the usual weight, it is better for him to use a lighter one. Though losing something in the severity of his strokes, he will gain enough in sureness to more than make up for it.
How to hold the Racket—One finds many different ways of holding the racket among good players, and no exact rule has ever been received as correct. Still, nearly all good players observe certain principles in holding a racket. It is of the first importance that you should be able to play a ball either fore- or back-handed without changing your hold on the racket. If the hold is changed, there is always danger of not getting the racket into the right position quickly enough. Such a change must require a certain amount of time and attention, which cannot well be spared in sharp play. The method that I should recommend is as follows:—Lay the racket on a table with the smooth side up. Open the hand with the thumb nearly at right angles to the fingers, and then clasp the handle in such a way as to make its upper right edge (or what would be its right edge if it were cut square) fit into the hollow of the joint between the thumb and forefinger. In closing the fingers on the handle, do not put them directly round it, but with the first joint of each finger slanting up the handle, which will cause the top joints to slant down theother way. The first two fingers should be a little separated from the other fingers, and from each other. The end of the handle should be well within the hand, with the little finger round the leather rim. The thumb should not go round on to the ends of the fingers, but should slope upwards across the upper side of the handle.