Chapter 8

First Visit to Scotland.

On Board the Royal George Yacht,

Monday, August 29, 1842.

Atfive o’clock in the morning we leftWindsorfor the railroad, the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Matilda Paget, General Wemyss, Colonel Bouverie, and Mr. Anson following us. Lord Liverpool, Lord Morton, and Sir James Clark, who also accompany us, had already gone on toWoolwich.

We reachedLondonat a quarter to six, got into our carriages, and arrived atWoolwichbefore seven. Albert and I immediately stepped into our barge. There was a large crowd to see us embark. The Duke of Cambridge, Lord Jersey, Lord Haddington, Lord Bloomfield, and Sir George Cockburn were present in full uniform. Sir George handed me into the barge. It was raining very hard when we got on board, and therefore we remained in our sitting-room.

I annex a list of our squadron:—

1. The ship “Pique,” 36 guns.2. The sloop “Daphne,” 18 guns—(both of which join us at theNore).3. The steam-vessel “Salamander” (with the carriages on board).4. The steam-vessel “Rhadamanthus” (Lord Liverpool and Lord Morton on board).5. The steam-vessel “Monkey” Tender, which has towed us till nine o’clock (Mr. Anson and the equerries on board).6. The steam-vessel “Shearwater,” which is now towing us (Sir James Clark on board).7. The steam-vessel “Black Eagle” (which has the ladies on board, and which tows us in front of the “Shearwater”).8. The steam-vessel “Lightning” (with the Jäger Benda, and our two dogs, “Eôs” and “Cairnach,” on board) in front, which has gone to take our barge on board from the “Pique.”9. The steam-vessel “Fearless” (for survey).

1. The ship “Pique,” 36 guns.

2. The sloop “Daphne,” 18 guns—(both of which join us at theNore).

3. The steam-vessel “Salamander” (with the carriages on board).

4. The steam-vessel “Rhadamanthus” (Lord Liverpool and Lord Morton on board).

5. The steam-vessel “Monkey” Tender, which has towed us till nine o’clock (Mr. Anson and the equerries on board).

6. The steam-vessel “Shearwater,” which is now towing us (Sir James Clark on board).

7. The steam-vessel “Black Eagle” (which has the ladies on board, and which tows us in front of the “Shearwater”).

8. The steam-vessel “Lightning” (with the Jäger Benda, and our two dogs, “Eôs” and “Cairnach,” on board) in front, which has gone to take our barge on board from the “Pique.”

9. The steam-vessel “Fearless” (for survey).

This composes our squadron, besides which the Trinity-House steamer goes with us, and, also, a packet. Innumerable little pleasure steamboats have been following us covered with people.

Tuesday, August 30.

We heard, to our great distress, that we had only gone 58 miles since eight o’clock last night. How annoying and provoking this is! We remained on deck all day lying on sofas; the sea was very rough towards evening, and I was very ill. We reachedFlamborough Headon the Yorkshire coast by half-past five.

Wednesday, August 31.

At five o’clock in the morning we heard, to our great vexation, that we had only been going three knots an hour in the night, and were 50 miles fromSt. Abb’s Head.

We passedCoquet IslandandBamborough Castleon the Northumberland coast, which I was unfortunately unable to see; but from my cabin I sawFerne Island,with Grace Darling’s lighthouse on it; alsoRocky IslandsandHoly Island. At half-past five I went on deck, and immediately lay down. We then came in sight of the Scotch coast, which is very beautiful, so dark, rocky, bold, and wild, totally unlike our coast. We passedSt. Abb’s Headat half-past six. Numbers of fishing-boats (in one of which was a piper playing) and steamers full of people came out to meet us, and on board of one large steamer they danced a reel to a band. It was a beautiful evening, calm, with a fine sunset, and the air so pure.

One cannot help noticing how much longer the days are here than they were inEngland. It was not really dark till past eight o’clock, and on Monday and Tuesday evening atWindsorit was nearly dark by half-past seven, quite so before eight. The men begged leave to dance, which they did to the sound of a violin played by a little sailor-boy; they also sang.

We remained on deck till twenty-five minutes to nine, and saw many bonfires on the Scotch coast—atDunbar—Lord Haddington’s place,Tyninghame, and at other points on the coast. We let off four rockets, and burned two blue lights. It is surprising to see the sailors climb on the bowsprit and up to the top of the mast-head—this too at all times of the day and night. The man who carried the lantern to the main-top ran up with it in his mouth to the top. They are so handy and so well conducted.

We felt most thankful and happy that we were near our journey’s end.

Thursday, September 1.

At a quarter to one o’clock, we heard the anchor let down—a welcome sound. At seven we went on deck, where we breakfasted. Close on one side wereLeithand the high hills towering overEdinburgh, which was in fog; and on the other side was to be seen theIsle of May(where it is said Macduff held out against Macbeth), theBass Rockbeing behind us. At ten minutes past eight we arrived atGranton Pier, where we were met by the Duke of Buccleuch, Sir Robert Peel and others. They came on board to see us, and Sir Robert told us that the people were all in the highest good-humour, though naturally a little disappointed at having waited for us yesterday. We then stepped over a gangway on to the pier, the people cheering, and the Duke saying that he begged to be allowed to welcome us. Our ladies and gentlemen had landed before us, safe and well, and we two got into a barouche, the ladies and gentlemen following. The Duke, the equerries, and Mr. Anson rode.

There were, however, not nearly so many people inEdinburgh, though the crowd and crush were such that one was really continually in fear of accidents. More regularity and order would have been preserved had there not been some mistake on the part of the Provost about giving due notice of our approach. The impressionEdinburghhas made upon us is very great; it is quite beautiful, totally unlike anything else I have seen; and what is even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says it is unlike anythingheever saw; it is so regular, everything built of massive stone, there is not a brick to be seen anywhere. TheHigh Street, which is pretty steep, is very fine. Then the Castle, situated on that grand rock in the middle of the town, is most striking. On the other side theCalton Hill, with theNational Monument, a building in the Grecian style;Nelson’s Monument;Burns’ Monument; theGaol; theNational School, &c.; all magnificent buildings, and withArthur’s Seatin thebackground, over-topping the whole, form altogether a splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very great, and the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers Body Guard[2]met us and walked with us the whole way through the town. It is composed entirely of noblemen and gentlemen, and they all walked close by the carriage; but were dreadfully pushed about. Amongst them were the Duke of Roxburgh and Lord Elcho on my side; and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s side. Lord Elcho[3](whom I did not know at the time) pointed out the various monuments and places to me as we came along. When we were out of the town, we went faster. Every cottage is built of stone, and so are all the walls that are used as fences.

[2]The Duke of Buccleuch told me the other day, that the Archers Guard was established by JamesI., and was composed of men who were mounted and armed from head to foot, and who were bound always to be near the Sovereign’s person. At Flodden Field, King JamesIV.’s body, it is said, was found covered and surrounded by the bodies of the Archers Guard.

[3]Now Earl of Wemyss.

The country and people have quite a different character fromEnglandand the English. The old women wear close caps, and all the children and girls are bare-footed. I saw several handsome girls and children with long hair; indeed all the poor girls from sixteen and seventeen down to two or three years old, have loose flowing hair; a great deal of it red.

As we came along we sawCraigmillar Castle, a ruin, where Mary, Queen of Scots, used to live. We reachedDalkeithat eleven; a large house, constructed of reddish stone, the greater part built by the Duchess of Monmouth, and the park is very fine and large. The house has three fronts, with the entrance on the left as you drive up. The

Duchess of Buccleuch arrived directly after us, and we were shown up a very handsome staircase to our rooms, which are very comfortable. We both felt dreadfully tired and giddy.

We drove out together. The park is very extensive, with a beautiful view ofArthur’s Seatand thePentland Hills; and there is a pretty drive overhanging a deep valley. At eight we dined—a large party. Everybody was very kind and civil, and full of inquiries as to our voyage.

Dalkeith House, Friday, September 2.

At breakfast I tasted the oatmeal porridge, which I think very good, and also some of the “Finnan haddies.” We then walked out. The pleasure-grounds seem very extensive and beautiful, wild and hilly. We walked down along the stream (the riverEsk), up a steep bank to a little cottage, and came home by the upper part of the walk. At four o’clock we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch and the Duchess of Norfolk—the Duke and equerries riding—the others in another carriage. We drove throughDalkeith, which was full of people, all running and cheering.

Albert says that many of the people look like Germans. The old women with that kind of cap which they call a “mutch,” and the young girls and children with flowing hair, and many of them pretty, are very picturesque; you hardly see any women with bonnets.

Such a thick “Scotch mist” came on that we were obliged to drive home through the village ofLasswade, and through Lord Melville’s Park, which is very fine.

Saturday, September 3.

At ten o’clock we set off—we two in the barouche—all the others following, forEdinburgh. We drove in underArthur’s Seat, where the crowd began to be very great, and here the Guard of Royal Archers met us; Lord Elcho walking near me, and the Duke of Roxburgh and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s side. We passed byHolyrood Chapel, which is very old and full of interest, andHolyrood Palace, a royal-looking old place. The procession moved through theOld Townup theHigh Street, which is a most extraordinary street from the immense height of the houses, most of them being eleven stories high, and different families living in each story. Every window was crammed full of people. They showed usKnox’s House, a curious old building, as is also theRegent Murray’s House, which is in perfect preservation. In theOld TowntheHigh Church, andSt. Paul’sin theNew Town, are very fine buildings. At the barrier, the Provost presented us with the keys.

The girls of theOrphan Asylum, and the Trades in old costumes, were on a platform. Further on was theNew Church, to which—strange to say, as the church is nearly finished—they were going to lay the foundation stone. We at length reached the Castle, to the top of which we walked.

The view from both batteries is splendid, like a panorama in extent. We saw from themHeriot’s Hospital, a beautiful old building, founded, in the time of James, by a goldsmith and jeweller, whom Sir Walter Scott has made famous in hisFortunes of Nigel. After this, we got again into the carriages and proceeded in the same way as before, the pressure of the crowd being really quite alarming; and both I and Albert were quite terrified for the Archers Guard, who had very hard work ofit; but were of the greatest use. They all carry a bow in one hand, and have their arrows stuck through their belts.

Unfortunately, as soon as we were out ofEdinburgh, it began to rain, and continued raining the whole afternoon without interruption. We reachedDalmeny, Lord Roseberry’s, at two o’clock. The park is beautiful, with the trees growing down to the sea. It commands a very fine view of theForth, theIsle of May, theBass Rock, and ofEdinburgh; but the mist rendered it almost impossible to see anything. The grounds are very extensive, being hill and dale and wood. The house is quite modern: Lord Roseberry built it, and it is very pretty and comfortable. We lunched there. The Roseberrys were all civility and attention. We left them about half-past three, and proceeded home throughLeith.

The view ofEdinburghfrom the road before you enterLeithis quite enchanting; it is, as Albert said, “fairy-like,” and what you would only imagine as a thing to dream of, or to see in a picture. There was that beautiful large town, all of stone (no mingled colours of brick to mar it), with the bold Castle on one side, and theCalton Hillon the other, with those high sharp hills ofArthur’s SeatandSalisbury Cragstowering above all, and making the finest, boldest background imaginable. Albert said he felt sure theAcropoliscould not be finer; and I hear they sometimes callEdinburgh“the modernAthens.” The Archers Guard met us again atLeith, which is not a pretty town.

The people were most enthusiastic, and the crowd very great. The Porters all mounted, with curious Scotch caps, and their horses decorated with flowers, had a very singular effect; but the fishwomen are the most striking-looking people, and are generally young and prettywomen—very clean and very Dutch-looking, with their white caps and bright-coloured petticoats. They never marry out of their class.

At six we returned well tired.

Sunday, September 4.

We walked to see the new garden which is being made, and saw Mackintosh there, who was formerly gardener atClaremont. The view ofDalkeith(the village, or rather town) from thence is extremely picturesque, and Albert says very German-looking. We returned over a rough sort of bridge, made only of planks, which crosses theEsk, and which, with the wooded banks on each side, is excessively pretty. Received from Lady Lyttelton good accounts of our little children. At twelve o’clock there were prayers in the house, read by Mr. Ramsay, who also preached.

At half-past four the Duchess drove me out in her own phaeton, with a very pretty pair of chestnut ponies, Albert riding with the Duke and Colonel Bouverie. We drove through parts of the park, through an old wood, and along the banks of theSouth Eskand theNorth Esk, which meet at a point from which there is such a beautiful view of thePentland Hills. Then we drove, by a private road, toNewbattle, Lord Lothian’s place. The park is very fine, and the house seems large; we got out to look at a most magnificent beech-tree. TheSouth Eskruns close before the house, by a richly wooded bank.

From thence we went toDalhousie, Lord Dalhousie’s. The house is a real old Scotch castle, of reddish stone. We got out for a moment, and the Dalhousies showed us the drawing-room. From the window you see a beautiful wooded valley, and a peep of the distant hills.

Lord Dalhousie said there had been no British sovereign there since HenryIV. We drove home by the same way that we came. The evening was—as the whole day had been—clear, bright, and frosty, and theMoorfoot Hills(another range) looked beautiful as we were returning. It was past seven when we got home.

Monday, September 5.

I held a Drawing-room atDalkeithto-day, in the gallery. The Ministers and Scotch Officers of State were in the room, and the Royal Archers were in attendance in the room and outside of it, like the Gentlemen at Arms inLondon. Before the Drawing-room I received three addresses—from the Lord Provost and Magistrates, from the Scotch Church, and from the Universities ofSt. Andrews,Glasgow, andEdinburgh—to which I read answers. Albert received his just after I did mine, and read his answers beautifully.

Tuesday, September 6.

At nine o’clock we leftDalkeithas we came. It was a bright, clear, cold, frosty morning. As we drove along we saw thePentlands, which looked beautiful, as did alsoArthur’s Seat, which we passed quite close by. TheSalisbury Crags, too, are very high, bold, and sharp. Before this we sawCraigmillar. We passed through a back part of the town (which is most solidly built), close byHeriot’s Hospital, and had a very fine view of the Castle.

I forgot to say that, when we visited the Castle, we saw the Regalia, which are very old and curious (they were lost for one hundred years); also the room in which JamesVI. of Scotland and the First of England was born—such a very, very small room, with an old prayer written on the wall. We had a beautiful view ofEdinburghand theForth. AtCraigleith(only a half-wayhouse, nine miles) we changed horses. The Duke rode with us all the way as Lord-Lieutenant of the county, until we arrived atDalmeny, where Lord Hopetoun met us and rode with us. At eleven we reached theSouth Queensferry, where we got out of our carriage and embarked in a little steamer; the ladies and gentlemen and our carriages going in another. We went a little way up theForth, to seeHopetoun House, Lord Hopetoun’s, which is beautifully situated betweenHopetounandDalmeny. We also sawDundas Castle, belonging to Dundas of Dundas, and further on, beyondHopetoun,Blackness Castle, famous in history. On the opposite side you see a square tower, close to the water, calledRosyth, where Oliver Cromwell’s mother was said to have been born, and in the distanceDunfermline, where Robert Bruce is buried. We passed close by a very pretty island in theForth, with an old castle on it, calledInchgarvie; and we could see the Forth winding beautifully, and had a distant glimpse ofEdinburghand its fine Castle. We landed safely on the other side, atNorth Queensferry, and got into our carriages. Captain Wemyss, elder brother to General Wemyss, rode with us all the way beyondCowdenbeath(eight miles). The first village we passed through on leaving theQueensferry, wasInverkeithing. We passed by Sir P. Durham’s property.

We changed horses atCowdenbeath. At a quarter-past one we enteredKinross-shire. Soon after, the country grew prettier, and the hills appeared again, partly wooded. We passedLoch Leven, and saw the castle on the lake from which poor Queen Mary escaped. There the country is rather flat, and the hills are only on one side. We changed horses next atKinross. Soon after this, the mountains, which are rather barren, began to appear.Then we passed the valley ofGlen Farg; the hills are very high on each side, and completely wooded down to the bottom of the valley, where a small stream runs on one side of the road—it is really lovely.

On leaving this valley you come upon a beautiful view ofStrathearnandMoncrieffe Hill. We were then inPerthshire. We changed horses next at theBridge of Earn(12 miles). At half-past three we reachedDupplin, Lord Kinnoull’s. All the time the views of the hills, and dales, and streams were lovely. The last part of the road very bad travelling, up and down hill.Dupplinis a very fine modern house, with a very pretty view of the hills on one side, and a small waterfall close in front of the house. A battalion of the 42nd Highlanders was drawn up before the house, and the men looked very handsome in their kilts. We each received an address from the nobility and gentry of the county, read by Lord Kinnoull; and from the Provost and Magistrates ofPerth. We then lunched. The Willoughbys, Kinnairds, Ruthvens, and Lord Mansfield, and one of his sisters, with others, were there. After luncheon, we walked a little way in the grounds, and then at five o’clock we set off again. We very soon came uponPerth, the situation of which is quite lovely; it is on theTay, with wooded hills skirting it entirely on one side, and hills are seen again in the distance, the river winding beautifully.

Albert was charmed, and said it put him in mind of the situation ofBasle. The town itself (which is very pretty) was immensely crowded, and the people very enthusiastic; triumphal arches had been erected in various places. The Provost presented me with the keys, and Albert with the freedom of the city. Two miles beyond isScone(Lord Mansfield’s), a fine-looking house of reddish stone.

Lord Mansfield and the Dowager Lady Mansfield received us at the door, and took us to our rooms, which were very nice.

Wednesday, September 7.

We walked out, and saw the mound on which the ancient Scotch kings were always crowned; also the old arch with JamesVI.’s arms, and the old cross, which is very interesting.

Before our windows stands a sycamore-tree planted by JamesVI. A curious old book was brought to us fromPerth, in which the last signatures are those of JamesI. (of England) and of CharlesI., and we were asked to write our names in it, and we did so. Lord Mansfield told me yesterday that there were some people in the town who wore the identical dresses that had been worn in CharlesI.’s time. At eleven o’clock we set off as before. We drove through part ofPerth, and had a very fine view ofScone. A few miles on, we passed the field of battle ofLuncarty, where tradition says the Danes were beaten by Lord Erroll’s ancestor. We also passed Lord Lynedoch’s property. We then changed horses at the “New Inn” atAuchtergaven. TheGrampianscame now distinctly into view; they are indeed a grand range of mountains.

To the left we sawTullybelton, where it is said the Druids used to sacrifice to Bel; there are a few trees on the top of the mountain.

To the left; but more immediately before us, we sawBirnam, where once stoodBirnam Wood, so renowned inMacbeth. We passed a pretty shooting place of Sir W. Stewart’s, calledRohallion, nearly at the foot ofBirnam. To the right we saw theStormontandStrathtay. Albert said, as we came along between the mountains, that to the right, where they were wooded, it was very likeThüringen, and on the left more likeSwitzerland.Murthly, to the right, which belongs to Sir W. Stewart, is in a very fine situation, with theTaywinding under the hill. This lovely scenery continues all along toDunkeld. Lord Mansfield rode with us the whole way.

Just outsideDunkeld, before a triumphal arch, Lord Glenlyon’s Highlanders, with halberds, met us, and formed our guard—a piper playing before us.Dunkeldis beautifully situated in a narrow valley, on the banks of theTay. We drove in to where the Highlanders were all drawn up, in the midst of their encampments, and where a tent was prepared for us to lunch in. Poor Lord Glenlyon[4]received us; but he had suddenly become totally blind, which is dreadful for him. He was led about by his wife; it was very melancholy. His blindness was caused by over-fatigue. The Dowager Lady Glenlyon, the Mansfields, Kinnoulls, Buccleuchs, and many others were there. We walked down the ranks of the Highlanders, and then partook of luncheon, the piper played, and one of the Highlanders[5]danced the “sword dance.” (Two swords crossed are laid upon the ground, and the dancer has to dance across them without touching them.) Some of the others danced a reel.

[4]The late Duke of Athole.

[5]Charles Christie, now steward to the present Dowager Duchess of Athole.

At a quarter to four we leftDunkeldas we came, the Highland Guard marching with us till we reached the outside of the town. The drive was quite beautiful all the way toTaymouth.[6]The two highest hills of therange on each side are (to the right, as you go on after leavingDunkeld)Craig-y-Barnsand (to the left, immediately aboveDunkeld)Craigvinean. TheTaywinds along beautifully, and the hills are richly wooded. We changed horses first atBalanagard(nine miles), to which place Captain Murray, Lord Glenlyon’s brother, rode with us. The hills grew higher and higher, and Albert said it was very Swiss-looking in some parts. High ribbed mountains appeared in the distance, higher than any we have yet seen. This was nearAberfeldy(nine miles), which is charmingly situated and the mountains very lofty. At a quarter to six we reachedTaymouth. At the gate a guard of Highlanders, Lord Breadalbane’s men, met us.Taymouthlies in a valley surrounded by very high, wooded hills; it is most beautiful. The house is a kind of castle, built of granite. Thecoup-d’œilwas indescribable. There were a number of Lord Breadalbane’s Highlanders, all in the Campbell tartan, drawn up in front of the house, with Lord Breadalbane himself in a Highland dress at their head, a few of Sir Neil Menzies’ men (in the Menzies red and white tartan), a number ofpipers playing, and a company of the 92nd Highlanders, also in kilts. The firing of the guns, the cheering of the great crowd, the picturesqueness of the dresses, the beauty of the surrounding country, with its rich background of wooded hills, altogether formed one of the finest scenes imaginable. It seemed as if a great chieftain in olden feudal times was receiving his sovereign. It was princely and romantic. Lord and Lady Breadalbane took us upstairs, the hall and stairs being lined with Highlanders.

[6]I revisited Taymouth last autumn, on the 3rd of October, from Dunkeld (incognita), with Louise, the Dowager Duchess of Athole, and Miss MacGregor. As we could not have driven through the grounds without asking permission, and we did not wish to be known, we decided upon not attempting to do so, and contented ourselves with getting out at a gate close to a small fort, into which we were led by a woman from the gardener’s house, near to which we had stopped, and who had no idea who we were.We got out, and looked from this height down upon the house below, the mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us everything; and then, unknown, quite in private, I gazed—not without deep emotion—on the scene of our reception twenty-four years ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane, in a princely style, not to be equalled in grandeur and poetic effect.Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and happy. How many are gone that were with us then!I was very thankful to have seen it again.It seemed unaltered.—1866.

We got out, and looked from this height down upon the house below, the mist having cleared away sufficiently to show us everything; and then, unknown, quite in private, I gazed—not without deep emotion—on the scene of our reception twenty-four years ago, by dear Lord Breadalbane, in a princely style, not to be equalled in grandeur and poetic effect.

Albert and I were then only twenty-three, young and happy. How many are gone that were with us then!

I was very thankful to have seen it again.

It seemed unaltered.—1866.

The Gothic staircase is of stone and very fine; the whole of the house is newly and exquisitely furnished. The drawing-room, especially, is splendid. Thence you go into a passage and a library, which adjoins our private apartments. They showed us two sets of apartments, and we chose those which are on the right hand of the corridor or ante-room to the library. At eight we dined. Staying in the house, besides ourselves, are the Buccleuchs and the two Ministers, the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower,[7]the Abercorns, Roxburghs, Kinnoulls, Lord Lauderdale, Sir Anthony Maitland, Lord Lorne,[8]the Fox Maules, Belhavens, Mr. and Mrs. William Russell, Sir J. and Lady Elizabeth, and the Misses Pringle, and two Messrs. Baillie, brothers of Lady Breadalbane. The dining-room is a fine room in Gothic style, and has never been dined in till this day. Our apartments also are inhabited for the first time. After dinner the grounds were most splendidly illuminated,—a whole chain of lamps along the railings, and on the ground was written in lamps, “Welcome Victoria—Albert.”

[7]Now Duchess of Argyll.

[8]The present Duke of Argyll.

A small fort, which is up in the woods, was illuminated, and bonfires were burning on the tops of the hills. I never saw anything so fairy-like. There were some pretty fireworks, and the whole ended by the Highlanders dancing reels, which they do to perfection, to the sound of the pipes, by torch-light, in front of the house. It had a wild and very gay effect.

Taymouth, Thursday, September 8.

Albert went off at half-past nine o’clock to shoot with Lord Breadalbane. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk along a path overlooking theTay, which is very clear, and ripples and foams along over the stones, the high mountains forming such a rich background. We got up to the dairy, which is a kind of Swiss cottage, built of quartz, very clean and nice. From the top of it there is a very pretty view ofLoch Tay.

We returned home by the way we came. It rained the whole time, and very hard for a little while. Albert returned at half-past three. He had had excellent sport, and the trophies of it were spread out before the house—nineteen roe-deer, several hares and pheasants, and three brace of grouse; there was also a capercailzie that had been wounded, and which I saw afterwards, a magnificent large bird.

Albert had been nearAberfeldy, and had to shoot and walk the whole way back, Lord Breadalbane himself beating, and 300 Highlanders out. We went out at five, with Lady Breadalbane and the Duchess of Sutherland; we saw part ofLoch Tay, and drove along the banks of theTayunder fine trees, and saw Lord Breadalbane’s American buffaloes.

Friday, September 9.

Albert off again after nine o’clock, to shoot. Soon after he left I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk across the iron bridge, and along a grass walk overhanging theTay.

Two of the Highland Guard (they were stationed at almost every gate in the park) followed us, and it looked like olden times to see them with their swords drawn.

We then walked to a lodge on the same road. A fat, good-humoured little woman, about forty years old, cut some flowers for each of us, and the Duchess gave her some money, saying, “From Her Majesty.” I never saw any one more surprised than she was; she, however, came up to me and said very warmly, that my people were delighted to see me inScotland. It came on to rain very heavily soon afterwards, but we walked on. We saw a woman in the river, with her dress tucked up almost to her knees, washing potatoes.

The rain ceased just as we came home, but it went on pouring frequently. Albert returned at twenty minutes to three, having had very hard work on the moors, wading up to his knees in bogs every now and then, and had killed nine brace of grouse. We lunched; then we went to the drawing-room, and saw from the window the Highlanders dancing reels; but unfortunately it rained the whole time. There were nine pipers at the castle; sometimes one, and sometimes three played. They always played about breakfast-time, again during the morning, at luncheon, and also whenever we went in and out; again before dinner, and during most of dinnertime. We both have become quite fond of the bagpipes.

At a quarter-past five we drove out with the Duchessof Buccleuch and the Duchess of Sutherland (poor Lady Breadalbane not being very well), Lord Breadalbane riding the whole time before us. We took a most beautiful drive, first of all along part of the lake and between the hills—such thorough mountain scenery,—and with little huts, so low, so full of peat smoke, that one could hardly see anything for smoke. We sawBen Lawers, which is said to be 4,000 feet high, very well, and further on, quite in the distance,Ben More—also theGlenlyon, and the riverLyon, and many fine glens. It was quite dark when we came home at half-past seven. At eight we dined; Lord and Lady Ruthven and Lord and Lady Duncan dined here. After dinner came a number of people, about ninety, and there was a ball. It opened with a quadrille, which I danced with Lord Breadalbane, and Albert with the Duchess of Buccleuch. A number of reels were danced, which it was very amusing and pretty to see.

Saturday, September 10.

We walked to the dairy and back—a fine bright morning; the weather the two preceding days had been very unfortunate. I drove a little way with Lady Breadalbane, the others walking, and then got out, and each of us planted two trees, a fir and an oak. We got in again, and drove with the whole party down to the lake, where we embarked. Lady Breadalbane, the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth went by land, but all the others went in boats. With us were Lord Breadalbane and the Duchess of Norfolk and Duchess of Buccleuch; and two pipers sat on the bow and played very often. I have since been reading inThe Lady of the Lake, and this passage reminds me of our voyage:—

“See the proud pipers on the bow,And mark the gaudy streamers flowFrom their loud chanters down, and sweepThe furrow’d bosom of the deep,As, rushing through the lake amain,They plied the ancient Highland strain.”

“See the proud pipers on the bow,

And mark the gaudy streamers flow

From their loud chanters down, and sweep

The furrow’d bosom of the deep,

As, rushing through the lake amain,

They plied the ancient Highland strain.”

Our row of 16 miles upLoch TaytoAuchmore, a cottage of Lord Breadalbane’s, near the end of the lake, was the prettiest thing imaginable. We saw the splendid scenery to such great advantage on both sides:Ben Lawers, with small waterfalls descending its sides, amid other high mountains wooded here and there; withKenmorein the distance; the view, looking back, as the loch winds, was most beautiful. The boatmen sang two Gaelic boat-songs, very wild and singular; the language so guttural and yet so soft. Captain McDougall, who steered, and who is the head of the McDougalls, showed us the real “brooch of Lorn,” which was taken by his ancestor from Robert Bruce in a battle. The situation ofAuchmoreis exquisite; the trees growing so beautifully down from the top of the mountains, quite into the water, and the mountains all round, make it an enchanting spot. We landed and lunched in the cottage, which is a very nice little place. The day was very fine; the Highlanders were there again. We leftAuchmoreat twenty minutes past three, having arrived there at a quarter before three. The kindness and attention to us of Lord and of Lady Breadalbane (who is very delicate) were unbounded. We passedKillin, where there is a mountain stream running over large stones, and forming waterfalls.

The country we came to now was very wild, beginning atGlen Dochart, through which theDochartflows; nothing but moors and very high rocky mountains. Wecame to a small lake called, I think,Laragilly, amidst the wildest and finest scenery we had yet seen.Glen Ogle, which is a sort of long pass, putting one in mind of the prints of theKyber Pass, the road going for some way down hill and up hill, through these very high mountains, and the escort in front looking like mere specks from the great height. We also sawBen Voirlich. AtLoch Earn Headwe changed horses. Lord Breadalbane rode with us the whole way up to this point, and then he put his Factor (in Highland dress) up behind our carriage. It came on to rain, and rained almost the whole of the rest of the time. We passed alongLoch Earn, which is a very beautiful long lake skirted by high mountains; but is not so long or so large asLoch Tay. Just as we turned and went bySt. Fillans, the view of the lake was very fine. There is a large detached rock with rich verdure on it, which is very striking.

We also sawGlenartney, the mountain on which Lord Willoughby has his deer forest. We passed by Sir D. Dundas’s place,Dunira, before we changed horses atComrie, for the last time, and then by Mr. Williamson’s, and byOchtertyre, Sir W. Keith Murray’s.

Triumphal arches were erected in many places. We passed throughCrieff, and a little past seven reachedDrummond Castle, by a very steep ascent. Lord Willoughby received us at the door, and showed us to our rooms, which are small but nice. Besides Lord and Lady Willoughby and the two Misses Willoughby, and our own people, the dinner-party was composed of the Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth L. Gower, Lord and Lady Carington, Mr. and Mrs. Heathcote, the Duke de Richelieu, Lord Ossulston, Mr. Drummond, and the officers of the Guard.

Drummond Castle, Sunday, September 11.

We walked in the garden, which is really very fine, with terraces, like an old French garden. Part of the old castle and the archway remains.

At twelve o’clock we had prayers in the drawing-room, which were read by a young clergyman, who preached a good sermon.

It poured the whole afternoon, and, after writing, I read to Albert the three first cantos ofThe Lay of the Last Minstrel, which delighted us both; and then we looked over some curious, fine old prints by Ridinger. At eight we dined. The Duchess of Sutherland and Lady Elizabeth had gone; but Lord and Lady Abercorn and Lord and Lady Kinnoull and their daughter added to the party.

Monday, September 12.

Albert got up at five o’clock to go out deer-stalking. I walked out with the Duchess of Norfolk.

All the Highlanders (Lord Willoughby’s people, 110 in number), were drawn up in the court, young Mr. Willoughby and Major Drummond being at their head, and I walked round with Lady Willoughby. All the arms they wore belonged to Lord Willoughby; and there was one double-hilted sword, which had been at the battle ofBannockburn. I hear that atDunkeldthere were nearly 900 Highlanders, 500 beingAtholemen; and, altogether, with the various Highlanders who were on guard, there were 1,000 men.

At length—a little before three—to my joy, Albert returned, dreadfully sunburnt, and a good deal tired; he had shot a stag. He said the exertion and difficulty were very great. He had changed his dress at a small farm-house.Glenartneyis ten miles fromDrummondCastle; he drove there. Campbell of Monzie (pronounced “Monie”), a young gentleman who has a place near here, went with him and was, Albert said, extremely active. To give some description of this curious sport, I will copy an extract from a letter Albert has written to Charles,[9]giving a short account of it:—

“Without doubt deer-stalking is one of the most fatiguing, but it is also one of the most interesting of pursuits. There is not a tree, or a bush behind which you can hide yourself.... One has, therefore, to be constantly on the alert in order to circumvent them; and to keep under the hill out of their wind, crawling on hands and knees, and dressed entirely in grey.”

[9]My half-brother, Prince Leiningen, who died in 1856.

At half-past four we drove out with Lady Willoughby and the Duchess of Buccleuch. We drove throughFern Tower(belonging to the widow of the first Sir D. Baird), where we stopped the carriage; then toAbercairny, Major Moray’s. We got out there a moment to look at the very fine house he is building, then drove home byMonzie(Campbell of Monzie’s), and Sir W. Murray’s, and had a very good view of the Highland hills—a very fine day. At eight we dined. The Belhavens, Seftons, Cravens, Campbell of Monzie, and various others composed the party. After dinner more people came—several in kilts; and many reels were danced; Campbell of Monzie is an exceedingly good dancer. We danced one country dance—I with Lord Willoughby—and Albert with Lady Carington.

Tuesday, September 13.

We had to start early, and therefore got up soon after seven o’clock; breakfast before eight. At nine we setoff. The morning was very foggy and hazy. We passed near Lord Strathallan’s place and stopped for a moment where old Lady Strathallan was seated. Lord Willoughby rode with us the whole way till we arrived here. Soon after this we came to a very extraordinary Roman encampment atArdoch, called the “Lindrum.” Albert got out; but I remained in the carriage, and Major Moray showed it to him. They say it is one of the most perfect in existence.

We changed horses atGreenloaning, and passed throughDunblane. At twelve o’clock we reachedStirling, where the crowd was quite fearful, and the streets so narrow, that it was most alarming; and order was not very well kept. Up to the Castle, the road or street is dreadfully steep; we had a foot procession before us the whole way, and the heat was intense. The situation of the Castle is extremely grand; but I prefer that ofEdinburgh Castle. Old Sir Archibald Christie explained everything to us very well. We were shown the room where JamesII. killed Douglas, and the window out of which he was thrown. The ceiling is most curious. A skeleton was found in the garden only twenty-five years ago, and there appears to be little doubt it was Douglas’s. From the terrace the view is very extensive; but it was so thick and hazy, that we could not see the Highland hills well. Sir A. Christie showed us the field of the battle ofBannockburn; and the “Knoll,” close under the walls of the Castle, from which the ladies used to watch the tournaments; all the embankments yet remain. We also saw Knox’s pulpit.

We next passed throughFalkirk, and changed horses atCallander Park, Mr. Forbes’s; both he and Sir Michael Bruce having ridden with us from beyondStirling. We passed Lord Zetland on the road, and shortly beforereachingLinlithgow, where we changed horses, Lord Hopetoun met us. Unfortunately, we did not see the Palace, which, I am told, is well worth seeing. The Duke of Buccleuch met us soon after this, and, accompanied by a large number of his tenants, rode with us on horseback toDalkeith. We changed horses atKirkliston, and lastly at the outskirts ofEdinburgh. There were a good many people assembled atEdinburgh; but we were unable to stop. We reachedDalkeithat half-past five.

The journey was 65 miles, and I was very tired, and felt most happy that we had safely arrived here.

Dalkeith, Wednesday, September 14.

This is our last day inScotland; it is really a delightful country, and I am very sorry to leave it. We walked out and saw the fine greenhouse the Duke has built, all in stone, in the Renaissance style. At half-past three o’clock we went out with the Duchess of Buccleuch, only Colonel Bouverie riding with us. We drove throughMelville Park, and through one of the little collier villages (of which there are a great many aboutDalkeith), calledLoanhead, toRosslyn.

We got out at the chapel, which is in excellent preservation; it was built in the fifteenth century, and the architecture is exceedingly rich. It is the burying place of the family of Lord Rosslyn, who keeps it in repair. Twenty Barons of Rosslyn are buried there in armour. A great crowd had collected about the chapel when we came out of it.

FromRosslynwe then drove toHawthornden, which is also beautifully situated at a great height above the river. To our great surprise we found an immense crowd of people there, who must have run over fromRosslynto meet us.

We got out, and went down into some of the very curious caves in the solid rock, where Sir Alexander Ramsay and his brave followers concealed themselves, and held out for so long a time. The Duchess told us there were many of these caves all along the river toRosslyn.

We came home throughBonnyrigg, another collier village, and throughDalkeith.

Thursday, September 15.

We breakfasted at half-past seven o’clock, and at eight we set off, with the Duchess of Buccleuch, Lord Liverpool, and Lord Hardwicke following. The ladies and equerries had embarked earlier. The day was very bright and fine. The arrangements inEdinburgh, through which we had to pass, were extremely well managed, and excellent order was kept. We got out of the carriage on the pier, and went at once on board the “Trident,” a large steamboat belonging to the General Steam Navigation Company. The Duke and Duchess of Buccleuch, Lady J. Scott, the Emlyns, Lord Cawdor, and Lady M. Campbell, came on board with us, and we then took leave of them. We both thanked the Duke and Duchess for their extreme kindness, attention, and hospitality to us, which really were very great—indeed we had felt ourselves quite at home atDalkeith.

As the fair shores ofScotlandreceded more and more from our view, we felt quite sad that this very pleasant and interesting tour was over; but we shall never forget it.

On board the “Trident” (where the accommodation for us was much larger and better than on board the “Royal George,” and which was beautifully fitted up,) were Admiral Sir E. Brace, a pleasant old man, Commander Bullock, and three other officers. The “Rhadamanthus,” with some servants and carriages, set off last night, as well as the “Shearwater,” with Lord Liverpool and Lord Hardwicke on board.

The “Salamander” (with Mr. and Mrs. Anson on board), the “Fearless,” and the “Royal George” yacht set off at the same time with us, but the wind being against us, we soon lost sight of the yacht, and, not very long after, of all our steamers, except the “Monarch,” which belongs to the General Steam Navigation Company, and had some of our horses on board. It started nearly at the same time, and was the only one which could keep up with us. We passedTantallon Castle, a grand old ruin on the coast, and quite close to theBass Rock, which is very fine, and nearly oppositeTantallon. It was entirely covered with sea-gulls and island geese, which swarm in thousands and thousands, quite whitening its sides, and hovering above and around it.

At two o’clock we passed the famedSt. Abb’s Head, which we had so longed to see on our first voyage toScotland. I read a few stanzas out ofMarmion, giving an account of the voyage of the nuns toHoly Island, and saw the ruins of the convent on it; thenBamborough Castle, and a little further on theFerne Islands. We were very sorry to hear that poor Grace Darling had died the night before we passed the first time.

Friday, September 16.

We heard that we had passedFlamborough Headat half-past five in the morning. The “Black Eagle” we passed at half-past eight last night, and we could only just see her smoke by the time we came on deck. At half-past nine I followed Albert on deck; it was a fine, bright morning. We had some coffee, and walkedabout; we were then quite in the open sea; it was very fine all day. At five we were close to the “Rhadamanthus,” which had been in sight all day. We had a very pleasant little dinner on deck, in a small tent made of flags, at half-past five. We passedYarmouthat about a quarter to six—very flat—and looking, Albert said, like a Flemish town. We walked up and down on deck, admiring the splendid moonlight, which was reflected so beautifully on the sea.

We went below at half-past seven, and I read the fourth and fifth cantos ofThe Lay of the Last Minstrelto Albert, and then we played on the piano.

Saturday, September 17.

At three o’clock in the morning we were awakened by loud guns, which, however, were welcome sounds to us, as we knew that we were at theNore, the entrance of the river. About six we heard the “Rhadamanthus” had just passed us, and they said we were lying offSouthend, in order to let the “Black Eagle” come up. It was a very bright day, though a little hazy.

The shipping in the river looked very pretty as we passed along. At ten minutes past ten we got into the barge and landed. The Duchess of Norfolk and Miss Matilda Paget and the equerries were all there, but the others we knew nothing of. Sir James Clark had been on board the “Trident” with us. We drove off at once to the railway terminus, and reachedWindsor Castleat half-past twelve o’clock.

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