Having decided that the volume must be bound and having arranged it in its proper order, the next step is to indicate to the binder how it is to be bound and lettered. Various methods have been used to indicate style and lettering. Some libraries have an elaborate binding slip, giving on one side the different materials, colors, etc., and having the other divided into panels for lettering. A slip is made for each book and the binder follows it carefully. Some libraries arrange an arbitrary system with the binder making one letter or figure indicate much that otherwise would have to be written in full. For example, "C" under such an arrangement might mean "Bind in one-half red cowhide with green cloth sides." Some librarians give a general blanket order to bind all fiction in one way and all juvenile books in another.
For most books in English, except periodicals, lettering need not be indicated on a binding slip. All that is necessary is to underscore lightly on the title page the first letter of words which must be used. The call number may be put on a binding slip enclosed in the book, or in the case of fiction and juvenile books, it may be penciled lightly on the title page, thus doing away altogether with the binding slip. If there is a chance for misunderstanding on the part of the finisher, or if an author's real name must be usedinstead of a pseudonym which appears on the title page, a binding slip must be filled out giving exact lettering.
While exact lettering on a binding slip is not essential for ordinary books, it is necessary for periodicals, each set of which should be bound and lettered uniformly. This may be assured by making out a binding slip giving in full the title, dates covered, volume number and call number, if one is used. The slip goes to the bindery with the book, and when the volume is returned is filed so that when the next volume is to be bound the slip can be consulted and a new one written with the necessary changes in volume number and dates. The chief value of the slip is to show exactly how the previous volume has been bound, so that the following volumes can be made uniform if possible.
A carbon copy of binding slips for periodicals should be made, to be kept at the library for charging purposes.
When binding volumes which are a part of a set, other than a periodical, a slip must be made to be kept on file so that when another volume of the set comes to hand it will not be necessary to visit the shelves to see whether other volumes have been bound and how they have been bound.
In finishing periodicals the position of lettering and the size of type used may be kept uniform if the binder takes what is called a "rub" or "rub-off" of the book after it is lettered and keeps it on file at the bindery. This can easily be made by laying asheet of thin, but tough, paper over the back and rubbing it with shoemaker's heel-ball which will show white lettering on a black background. When the next volume comes to the bindery the "rub-off" shows exact height of boards, exact position of lettering and size of type.
A few libraries have had a dummy back made for each periodical showing color and kind of material in addition to other details. But the cost of a dummy is not slight and a new one must be made whenever any change in title or size occurs. Large college or reference libraries may need dummy backs for their numerous sets of foreign periodicals having various marks, such as umlauts, etc., over or under letters. When a library operates its own bindery it is possible to send the last bound volume as a sample. While this adds much to the routine, its main advantage is that it eliminates the possibility of mistakes due to defective dummy or indistinct "rub-off."
It is necessary that binders understand exactly how books are to be lettered, what kind of type to use and the position on the back of the book which each item of information must have. There are differences of opinion as to the best ways of lettering, but it is essential that every librarian have uniformity in his own library, even if he disagrees with his fellow workers. In all lettering a bold, clear type should be used, and all figures should be in Arabic, since it isplainer than Roman.
In most leather bindings the back is divided into five or six panels, making it possible to obtain uniformity by setting aside each panel for a definite purpose. If desired, another narrow panel may be made in which to stamp a mark of ownership. Paneling is a useful device in the case of books which are eight inches or more in height, but in the case of juvenile books and fiction it may be omitted entirely. As most of these books require simply author, title and call number, if one be used, the device of paneling adds to the labor in binding and serves no useful purpose in the library. It should be used on most other books bound in leather and on all periodicals bound in cloth or duck.
Which shall go at the top of the book, author or title? In favor of the title it can be claimed that all publishers letter the title first with the author second; and since in non-fiction the books in publishers' covers on the shelves will outnumber the rebound books, it is advisable to put the title first in order to have uniformity. On the other hand, it can be claimed that the arrangement under the class is by author, that most library assistants look for the author rather than the title, and that it is therefore advisable to put the most important item of information at the top in the position of greatest prominence. In the opinion of the writer this advantage outweighs any other.
It may be assumed, therefore, that the best arrangement is author, title, volume number if necessary, and call number. In the case of fiction, juvenilebooks and all other books from which it seems desirable to omit panels, these items will be put on with sufficient space between to make them independent of each other. The bottom of the call number should be 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inches from the tail of the book on all books in the library, except oversized books, which should have the call number at the top (Fig. 16). If panels are used, the author's name should be near the bottom of the first panel, the title in the second, volume number in the fourth and call number in the fifth (Fig. 15).
If two books are bound together, letter, author and title of the second book in the third panel (Fig. 17).
When a work is in more than one volume with separate titles for each volume, place the author's name in the first panel, general title in the second, volume in the third and the title of the particular volume in the fourth (Fig. 18).
If six panels are used, each item is dropped one panel.
In most cases the author's last name is sufficient, but occasionally it may be necessary to use initials to distinguish between authors having the same name. Use both surnames of joint authors (Fig. 19). For pseudonyms use the form adopted by the cataloging department. For example, if the catalog entry is under Clemens instead of Twain, letter Clemens on the book. Both real name and pseudonym may be put on the back, but it does not seem necessary. In the case of the classics add the name of translator or editor in the panel under the title (Fig. 20).
Figures 15 to 22 book spine layouts
Figures 23 to 30 book spine layouts
When the names of foreign cities or countries mustbe placed in the author panel, use the English form. Names of government departments, bureaus, etc., should be inverted if necessary to bring the distinctive word first. For example, use Health bureau, not Bureau of health.
In lettering titles it is seldom desirable to omit the first part of the title in order to use words which are more distinctive, in other words, to use a binder's title. If it is necessary it should be done with care and discrimination. Ordinarily, give first words, omitting articles. Very long titles must be condensed, sometimes at the expense of clearness.
Proceedings of organizations which meet in different cities should have the name of the place of the meeting lettered in the third panel (Fig. 21).
On periodicals, the author panel is left vacant and the title of the periodical given in full in the second panel. Here it is never permissible to omit first words, except articles. Letter "American review of reviews," not "Review of reviews." In case of foreign periodicals it may be necessary to place a sub-title in the third panel when a periodical is issued in two or more parts and each part bound separately with a distinct title page. With this exception, leave the third panel vacant and letter date and volume number in the fourth panel. Place first the months covered by the volume, followed by the year (Figs. 22 and 23.) Use the first three letters of each month, except Juneand July, which should be given in full. On foreign periodicals use the English abbreviations for months. If the volume covers the calendar year the months may be omitted (Fig. 24). In the same panel place the volume number beneath the year.
If the periodical has more than one series give dates and total volume number, placing underneath the series number and volume of series (Fig 25).
If the unbound volume of a periodical is too large to be bound in one book, bind it in two volumes and letter the exact months in each part, placing "Part 1" and "Part 2" underneath the volume number (Fig. 26).
If two volumes are bound in one give the inclusive volume numbers (Fig. 27).
In the case of periodicals having more than one series and which are indexed in Poole's index or the Readers' guide, the volume number given first should correspond with the one given in the indexes.
Thin volumes must be lettered lengthwise in the same order as outlined above. Always letter from head to tail. This facilitates reading on the shelves, since shelves are naturally read from left to right. In lettering lengthwise place the book number below the class number, if there is room, if not, after the class number with a hyphen between (Fig. 28).
Oversized books which must be shelved on their sides should also be lettered from head to tail.
If the book is an index complete in itself letter the word "Index" in the fourth panel, followed bythe inclusive volume numbers covered by the index (Fig. 29).
If a periodical index covering several volumes is included at the end of one of the volumes, place the word Index and the inclusive volume numbers underneath the dates and regular volume number (Fig. 30).
Other questions are sure to arise, but they can be solved satisfactorily if it be remembered that the essentials are definiteness and clearness.
Binding records must be as simple as possible, but they should
1. Instruct the binder.
2. Show what books are in the bindery and when they were sent.
3. Show how previous volumes of a set have been bound.
4. Act as a check on books when returned.
5. Show the cost of binding.
Some librarians keep a record of all books bound, called a "binding book." To the writer the need of a permanent register of books bound is not apparent. It is much easier to keep in other ways a record of books actually in the bindery and after the books have been bound and returned to the library the value of having the fact recorded in any other place than on the accession book is negligible. In the case of popular books easily replaced we may even question the necessity of recording in the accession book the fact that a book has been bound. Any other permanent record seems useless.
1. When books are sent to the bindery the binder must be told:
a.In what material each book is to be bound.
b.How each book is to be lettered.
The best way to indicate lettering, etc., has been shown in the chapter "Preparing for the bindery." The designation of material and color can frequently be done by giving a blanket order if the books are of the same character. For example, if all the books are fiction it is perfectly feasible to send a written order, stating that they are all to be bound in half brown cowhide with red cloth sides, French joints, etc. If the shipment is a miscellaneous one of periodicals, reference books, fiction and juvenile books it may be necessary to state on the binding slips how each book is to be bound.
2. For public libraries the question of keeping a record of books that are in the bindery is a simple one. The use of book cards for charging purposes is practically universal. All that is necessary is to remove the book card from the book, stamp the name or first initial of the binder's name and the date after the last charging date (Z25Ap14), and file the cards just as they are filed at the loan desk. If a book cannot be found on the shelves or in circulation, it takes but a few seconds to discover whether or not it is in the bindery. When the book is returned the card is replaced in the book. This is the easiest way of keeping this record and shows at once how many times a book circulated in the publisher's covers before it needed to be bound.
For books which have no book cards, such as reference books and periodicals, it will be necessary to write a slip which can be filed as a record with the book cards. If a binding slip must be sent to the bindery, by using carbon paper both slips can be made at the same time. The binder should be notified ifbooks have not been returned; if unable to find them he must pay for them.
It is possible that some may think this method of keeping records unduly lax; that without a permanent record in book form many errors will creep in and that books will be lost. The answer to such a criticism is that in the Wilmington Institute Free Library it has worked for a period of ten years. During that time more than 25,000 volumes have been bound by five different binders, and the writer does not recall that a single volume has gone astray or that there have been any errors which would have been avoided if a record had been kept which required a careful invoicing of each volume sent to the bindery. When the books are shipped a statement is sent to the binder that so many volumes are in the shipment and it is his business to keep the books in this shipment together and return all at the same time. It is his responsibility, not that of the librarian.
3. Records showing how previous volumes of a set are bound should be kept as outlined under "Preparing for the bindery," page 140. The binding slip for the last volume of the periodical will show how it is bound. As an alternative to the carbon slip for periodicals it may be possible to keep a record of volumes in the bindery on the periodical checklist, if that be kept on sheets. A similar record should be kept for all books with volume numbers. For example, if volume 10 of Smith's works comes to the binding assistant a binding slip should be made out which records the material and color in which the book is to be bound, together with exact letteringused. When returned from the bindery this slip should be filed and referred to when another volume of the same work needs to be bound. Unless this is done it will be necessary to go to the shelves to see whether other volumes have been bound. If only one volume has been bound and that is in the hands of a reader it will be necessary to wait until it is returned, all of which means loss of time. No book with a volume number should be sent to the bindery without consulting the file of binding slips. If there is no record that a previous volume has been bound it may be advisable for the assistant to go to the shelves to see if there are other volumes of the same set which need binding. It is little more work to send five volumes than to send one.
4. From what has been said it can readily be seen what sort of a check is placed upon the binder. Books sent to him are charged to him as if delivered to a borrower. If he does not return them he must pay for them. Let the method be elaborate or simple, this is all that it amounts to. It behooves the librarian, therefore, to make his charging as simple as is compatible with safety.
5. Records of cost may be kept in various ways, but the essential facts which it is best to record are:
a.Number of volumes rebound;
b.Number newly bound;
c.Number resewed or recased;
d.Number repaired at the library;
e.Total cost.
If desired, the cost of each of the foregoing items may be kept. A large library will also need to keepa record of the binding for each branch, and possibly for each department in the main library.
In most cases it is not necessary for the binder to send a bill itemized by author and title.
It will be sufficient if he bill the books in some such way as this:
52 vols. Cowhide8 in.@.45$23.4016 vols. Buckram10 in.@.6510.406 vols. Imperial morocco cloth8 in.@.503.002 vols. Morocco8 in.@.701.40$38.20
Books may more easily be checked with such a bill than with an itemized one. The information may then be drawn off on a sheet, allowing a column for each material and size, monthly and yearly statistics being easily compiled from these sheets. If it is the policy of the library to send an itemized invoice of books to be bound the binder should return the invoice with prices for each volume added.
In large libraries, such as the large college and reference libraries and public libraries with many branches, more elaborate binding records than those just outlined are necessary. College libraries, which do not as a rule have book cards, will find it necessary to make out a slip of one kind or another for charging purposes. In large library systems books should be sent directly from the branch to the binder and returned to the branch. A record should be sent to the head of the binding department at the main library, showing the number of volumes sent with the date, also the date when the books were returned to the branch. Each branch should, of course, keep recordsin much the same way as a single small library, but the needs of statistics require further records at the main library.
It is probable that each large library will have to work out forms suitable for its own needs, but the following are suggested as feasible.
Binding slip. Size 6x4 in.Binding slip. Size 6x4 in.
Material and color are indicated on the left by underlining. Author, title, volume number, etc., are written in proper panels.
Size 5 × 3 in.Size 5 × 3 in.
This slip is filled out by the branch librarian and sent to supervisor of binding, who decides who shall bind the books and sends the order to the binder.
Size 5 × 3 in.Size 5 × 3 in.
When books are returned to the branch they arechecked up with the bill. If there are no discrepancies the bill is sent to the binding supervisor.
Size 5 × 3 in.Size 5 × 3 in.
This slip, made out at the central library upon advice from branch librarian that books have been shipped, is filed numerically. When bill is received, the information is drawn off on a monthly sheet. A similar slip can be used to keep records for each branch separately.
The weekly or monthly statistics sheets ought to give in vertical columns the number of volumes and cost of each kind of binding and repair work used by the library. They will include one-half cowhide, one-half morocco, library buckram, one-half duck, reinforcing, recasing, lettering, etc. The first column at the left will have the names of different departments and branches. The last column on the rightwill give the total expenditure for each department and branch, and the footings of columns will give the cost of each kind of work. If necessary this sheet can also indicate number of volumes rebound and the number of volumes newly bound.
In preparing books for the bindery and keeping binding records a regular routine should be adopted which should be followed as closely as possible in order to avoid errors. Each library should adopt a routine suited to its needs, modifying when necessary the following suggestions.
Binding Routine for Small Library
1. Examine book, noticing condition, completeness, title pages, indexes, etc., and decide how book is to be bound.
2. Underline on title page the first letter of words which must be lettered on back. Pencil call number on reverse of title page.
3. If volume is a periodical or a volume in a set make out binding slip giving volume number and dates.
4. File book cards at loan desk.
5. Send books to bindery.
6. When books are returned check bill with books to see that no mistake has been made in charges.
7. Replace book cards in books.
8. File slips for periodicals.
Binding Routine for Medium-Sized Library
1. Examine books for binding noticing condition, completeness, plates, title pages, indexes, number and condition of copies, editions and various other points noted under "Preparing for the Bindery."
2. If the book is a periodical find title page and index. A special record ought to show when these are due and which periodicals do not publish them. Arrange exactly as the book is to be bound.
3. If the book is a periodical consult file showing how previous volumes have been bound and make out a binding slip with carbon copy, making such changes as are required by changes in title, date and volume number. The binding slip should be laid in the front of the book.
4. If the book is one of a set see if other volumes have been bound.
5. For books, not periodicals, indicate lettering by underlining on the title page the first letter of each word that is to go on the back.
6. Indicate color, material, volume number, call number, etc., on a binding slip which should be laid in front of the book. If the shipment is all fiction and no call number is used it will not be necessary to make out any slip of instruction. A blanket order may be made saying that all books are to be bound in a certain way.
7. When ready to send to the bindery, remove book card or carbon copy of binding slip. Leaveslips containing information for the binder in the book.
8. Pack books and send to the binder, notifying him of the date of shipment and the number of volumes sent as follows:
96 vols. to be rebound.25 vols. of periodicals.3 vols. to be recased.4 vols. of corrections.2 vols. of samples.—130
(It sometimes happens that a volume of a set is going to a binder who did not bind the previous volumes. In such a case the second binder has no "rubbing" and a sample volume or a "rubbing" must be sent.)
9. Stamp carbon slips, and book cards after the last charging date, with the name or initial of the binder and the date sent.
10. File book cards and carbon slips alphabetically by author, or first word of title in the case of periodicals.
11. When books are returned from the bindery see that bill is correct.
12. See that books are lettered correctly, returning such as are incorrect.
13. Remove book cards from the file and place in the books.
14. Letter book pockets or book plates with call number and accession number, if this is the customof the library.
15. Send periodicals and other books which have not been properly recorded to the order or accession department to follow regular routine for new books. Books that have been rebound may go directly to the shelves.
16. File binding slips for periodicals and destroy slips for previous volumes.
17. If it is the custom of the library to enter cost of binding in the accession book it will be necessary to put the accession number and cost on the binding slip. These slips may then be arranged numerically by accession number and the cost entered in the accession book.
Routine for Large College and Reference Libraries
The routine just given is as simple as can be made without endangering the safety of books. It is not sufficiently accurate for the large libraries, especially the college libraries which bind a large number of periodicals belonging to many departments, each department being obliged to pay for its own binding. This requires complex records in the binding department. In order to eliminate as many mistakes as possible it will be necessary to have a binding card for each periodical and for sets. (See Fig. 31)
This card has a line for the title, a place for the description of the binding, and is ruled on both sides. On the right-hand side it is ruled in three columns—price, sent, returned. The lettering may be indicatedby vertical lines in the title, one for change of line in the same panel, two for change of panel.
Harper's Magazine
ColorStyleVolumesPriceSentRet'd
Figure 31. Size 5 × 3 in.
When no volume of a set is at the bindery the card is left in a permanent file of bindery cards. When a volume is sent to the bindery the card is transferred to a temporary file, showing what periodicals are at the bindery.
1. Examine volumes for completeness; see that all numbers of periodicals are included and arranged in proper order. In the case of books examine quickly for missing signatures. With both books and periodicals leave page collation to the binder.
2. Make charging slip and send to the loan desk. Books for departments should be charged in the departments and not at the loan desk.
3. If a periodical, find title-page and index (if one is not published there should be a note to that effect on the binding card); and if separate, lay insidethe volume.
4. If volume is part of a set examine binding records to see if other volumes have been bound. If no record is found in binding files look in catalog and order records to see if other volumes are already in the library, or have been recently bought and are not yet cataloged. If it is desirable to match exactly old sets bound elsewhere, make a "rub-off" for the binder and indicate the material and color. If the volume is one of a new set make decision in regard to style of binding and order a sample back.
5. If a periodical, get old card from "binding returned" file. In the case of new periodicals and books a card must be made, and the binder instructed to make a sample back for future use. Enter volume on card (one volume a line, unless several volumes are to be bound together).
6. Fill out binding slip (see page 154), indicating full lettering, proper spacing, style and material. Also make note on bottom of slip for such directions as "make sample back," "include all front covers," "no title page or index published," etc.
7. In the case of separate books it will be necessary to make out a card similar to the periodical binding card to be used in sending invoice of shipment to the binder.
8. Place binding slip in front of volume; tie up periodicals and lay aside with the volumes waiting to be shipped.
9. When shipment is ready to be sent, arrange cards:
a.By departments which are responsible for the cost of binding;
b.Alphabetically by author or title under departments.
10. Make typewritten list in triplicate (or more if necessary) of volumes for each department; one copy for filing, one for the binder and one to go to the order department with an estimate of the cost to serve as a charge against the proper department. If the departments against which charges must be made are many it may be simpler to list the books as they come, even if several departments are on one page, and to draw off from this the charges for the order department. Where departments are numerous and the record of each department is kept on a separate sheet there are a great number of sheets to handle, causing annoyance both in the binding department and in the bindery. Two lists may be sent to the binder so that he may add prices to one when the books are returned. This saves his time and also that of the binding assistant.
11. Stamp date on the binding card in the column marked "sent."
12. Stamp name of binder on binding card if the work is divided among different binders.
If all the work of the library goes to one binder this will not be necessary.
13. Ship the books.
14. File one copy of the list made out as noted in No. 10, send one copy to the binder, and add the estimated cost to the third list which is sent to the order department.
15. File cards in "binding sent" file.
16. When books are returned itemized bills are sent by the binder made out to each department.
17. Check books with the bills, arranging books in order of bills.
18. Take cards out of "binding sent" file in order of bills so that bills, books and cards are in the same order.
19. Compare lettering with slip to see if correct, lay aside such as are incorrect to be returned to the binder. Destroy slips.
20. See if charge is correct and enter on binding card in column marked "price." If there is a sample back, enter the cost and letters "S. B." above the line of the volume for which it is made.
21. Stamp date of bill on card in column marked "returned."
22. Stamp date of bill and cost in book on first recto after title page: "27 June 1914 Binding 75."
23. Send books to the cataloging department for cataloging, shelf-listing, etc.
24. Draw off on statistics sheet number of volumes and cost.
25. Send bills to the order department.
26. File cards for periodicals and all books with volume numbers in permanent file. Destroy cards for single books.
Practically all repairs to a book short of rebinding should be made in the library, since the work requires little space and no machinery, and the books may speedily be replaced on the shelves for general use. Large or medium sized libraries can well afford to hire one or more girls as menders, while the small library must utilize the spare time of regular assistants.
When books are sent to the binding department they should be sorted into the following groups:
Books to be (a) rebound, (b) recased, (c) recovered, (d) mended, (e) discarded; to have (f) new sides, (g) new labels, (h) new book cards or pockets.
When menders are employed all except those in the first group may be cared for in the library.
In sorting the books the question of whether to rebind or repair at the library must be decided for all books, except those in the discarded class and those which need new records (tags, pockets, book cards, etc.). The decision is not always an easy one to make. The kind of library in question, whether public, college, subscription, etc., will influence the decision, as well as the actual condition of the book. A few general rules about mending may help inmaking decisions.
1. If the book has never been rebound and in all probability must go to the bindery in a few months' time, send to the bindery at once. Mending not only adds nothing to the life of this book, but may easily shorten it.
2. Mend books which have been rebound once but which it would not pay to rebind again. Judicious mending of such books may keep them in service for a long time, but there comes a day when the use gained does not pay for the time put upon them.
3. Mend books which have nearly outlived their usefulness or which are to be withdrawn absolutely when worn out. The question need be decided only when the book is fairly clean, for if very soiled it should be withdrawn at once.
4. Mend books which must be on the library shelves, but which are seldom used.
5. Mend books printed on heavily loaded papers which will not pay to rebind. There are, unfortunately, many of them.
6. Mending cannot be done if the sewing is completely broken, though it is sometimes possible to insert signatures which are loose.
7. Books with broken corners must be rebound.
8. Recase books which have sewing intact and covers in good condition, if they will be used comparatively seldom.
9. Recover books which have worn covers but firm sewing.
Adhesives
Paste.Home-made pastes are cheapest. While there are various recipes for paste, either of the following will give satisfaction:
(1)Wheat flour,8 oz.Powdered alum,1/4 oz.Glycerine,1-1/2 oz.Oil wintergreen,1 dram.Water,1-1/2 pts.
Dissolve the alum in water and mix gradually with the flour into a smooth, thin paste; cook in a double boiler until smooth and clear; take from the fire and add the glycerine and oil of wintergreen. This quantity will make about one quart. If after standing a day a watery fluid collects, stir it into the paste. Keep this paste covered.
(2)1/4pound of flour (1 cup).1teaspoonful of alum, dissolved.1generous fourth teaspoonful of oil of clove.4cups of boiling water.
Mix the flour well with a little cold water, beating until perfectly smooth. Add the alum dissolved in a little cold water. Pour on two cups of the boiling water, strain through a wire sieve. Add the remainder of the boiling water and cook, stirring constantly until partially clear. Add the oil of cloveand put into a clean, covered earthen jar. The paste thickens as it cools. Take out small quantities for use. The materials for this paste cost less than 2 cents for a hundred books.
To all pastes it is best to add a spoonful of carbolic acid or formaldehyde to prevent spoiling. A small quantity of corrosive sublimate will make paste unattractive to bugs.
Although home-made pastes are cheapest, they are a bother to make and the saving of expense over commercial pastes is not worth while except in the very small library. Besides paste in bulk which can be obtained from the local binder there are many kinds of commercial paste. Some may be bought in powders; others, designed primarily for mounting photographs, in glass jars; still others in cans ready to use. The powders are cheap, keep indefinitely, but when needed must be mixed with water, and as a rule are not very satisfactory. Higgins' and other photo-mounting pastes are expensive and dry too quickly, but keep indefinitely. In the long run the most satisfactory pastes are those in tin cans with tight lids; these are ready to use, do not dry up and the preservative which they contain keeps them indefinitely. The Arabol Manufacturing Company, 100 William Street, New York, makes several varieties. Their "Sphinx" paste, which gives excellent satisfaction, can be bought in six one-gallon can lots at 75 cents a gallon, f. o. b., and in larger quantities at slightly reduced rates. Great care should be used to avoid having the paste so thin that itmakes the paper stretch.
Although paste is a necessity in every library, there is a tendency to use too much of it, and to use it when it is not necessary. Ordinarily it will injure the book less than other adhesives, but it should be used sparingly on books that must be rebound. When applied to the backs of loose signatures they become brittle; then when the book goes to the bindery a much larger amount must be cut from the back than would otherwise be the case.
If paste is to be applied to part of the paper only, the easiest way is to lay the paper on a board, place another piece of paper over it, leaving exposed the surface to which paste is to be applied. It can be spread more evenly with the finger, faster with a soft, long-handled brush. The larger libraries will find a pasting-machine a great time-saver. Book labels, book pockets, new end papers to freshen soiled books—anything which needs to have the entire surface covered—is pasted on the machine in one-tenth the time required by hand.
Glue.For ordinary mending, glue should never be used. (See Materials,p. 82.) Flexible glue, however, is a necessity for recasing and recovering books. It keeps indefinitely, can be used easily by those who acquire the knack of using it, and it sticks everlastingly.
Mucilage.Mucilage has no real place in a library. If paste is not the suitable material to use, substitute flexible glue, never mucilage.
Cloth
Cheesecloth.This well-known cloth is used when pressing down paper or book labels after they have been pasted and applied, and for quickly cleaning the hands of superfluous paste or glue. It should be cut in pieces of convenient size and not used many times before being discarded.
Jaconet.A thin, strong muslin will be needed for guarding sections and occasionally for forming joints. Jaconet is the best and may be obtained from a few library binders.
Canton flannel.A medium grade of this cloth is used for back-lining.
Book cloth.If recovering or re-siding is done the library must have a supply of book cloths in the shades preferred. For re-siding, any cloth in grade 1 (see page 75) is sufficiently good. For recovering cloths in the grade which meets the requirements of the Bureau of Standards are none too good. If much recovering is done it is best to buy the cloth by the piece.
Crepeline.This very thin cotton cloth, also called mousseline, through which print is easily read, is sometimes pasted over the entire surface of pages which receive very hard usage, and which would otherwise be literally thumbed to pieces long before the rest of the book.
Specially prepared cloth.The Gaylord Bros., of Syracuse, and the Multum in Parvo Binder Co., of Philadelphia, manufacture hinges made of cloth. While these are often useful they cannot be used under any and all conditions, as one might be led to believefrom the claims of the manufacturers.
Papers
Onion skin.Onion skin is a very thin, tough paper, used for mending torn pages, illustrations, etc., where print must show through. While it may be obtained gummed on one side, very little is gained, for it is nearly as easy to paste the ungummed onion skin as to moisten the gummed. For tears which do not run into the text; a thin, strong bond paper will be satisfactory.
Kraft or manila paper.A 30x40 60-pound kraft paper makes good end papers in recasing and recovering. A 70-pound manila paper may be used instead of kraft, if desired.
Red rope manila.This is a very strong, tough fibred cardboard which may sometimes be used as covers for books that it will scarcely pay to put into stouter covers. It may be obtained in several weights, the lighter weights being sufficiently strong for library use.
Thread
Even if no resewing is done, thread is necessary for making various repairs. The best are Hayes' linen thread No. 25, and Barbour's No. 40.
Ammonia
This is necessary for breaking down surfaces of highly glazed cloths so that labels will stick.
Shellac
After labels or the backs of books have been lettered in white or black ink they should have a covering of shellac. A supply of the best white shellac may be obtained from the local paint dealer.
Occasional use is found for various other materials, such as powdered pumice stone, sponge rubber, India rubber erasers and art gum.
Folders
Several binder's bone folders, costing fifteen cents each, should be kept in the binding department.
Knives
A long knife, broad at the point, thin-bladed but dull, is needed for cutting paper after it is folded and for various other uses. A sharp, pointed knife is needed for removing books from the covers, or old labels from the back.
Scissors
Long, thin-bladed, best quality.
Needles
Regular book-sewing needles.
Hammer
A broad-faced hammer may be required for beating down the backs of sections, or the entire book when it is difficult to replace it in its old cover.
Press
Books wet with paste or glue must be pressed. An old-fashioned letter-press which screws down by hand will answer all purposes in a small library. As they are now out-of-date, second-hand ones can be purchased for a small sum. There are one or two inexpensive small presses which are not so heavy as the letter-press, but which hold a larger number of books and are fairly satisfactory. The most satisfactory press is a stationary one which holds a number of books and which will exert great pressure. On account of lack of space and the cost it is inadvisable to use this in a mending room, and makeshifts are generally necessary.
Press-board
A few press-boards with projections which will fit into the joints of books may be necessary. They may be obtained from any dealer in binders' supplies.
Sewing Bench
If any resewing is done a sewing bench is a necessity. Ordinarily books needing resewing should be sent to the bindery.
Glue-pot
A double-boiler glue-pot is a necessity if recovering or recasing is to be done. It should be kept clean.
Brushes
A long-handled, small-sized brush with soft bristles will be used for pasting, while glue will requirea large, round brush such as is commonly used in binderies.
Pasting Machine
A good pasting machine will cost about ten dollars, but it is a great time saver. There are several on the market. In the Wilmington Library the "Universal" is used and gives satisfaction in all cases when a machine can be used.
Cutting-Board
A small-sized cutting-board, such as is used by photographers, is useful in the mending room as well as in other parts of the library.
A part of the duty of the mending department is to remove such dirt or stains as can readily be removed without injury to the books.
Pages
Various materials may be used for cleaning books which show soiled pages here and there, but which are in the main fairly clean. A red rubber or a sponge rubber is much better than an India rubber eraser. The latter should never be used unless the paper is excellent in quality. Bread crumbs rolled in a ball or powdered pumice stone put on with a dry cloth will often give good results. If the book is much soiled, or has mud stains, it may be advisable to use ivory soap and water with a few drops of ammonia, applied with a piece of cheesecloth well wrung out.
If the paper is of good quality it may be washedwith Javelle water, a preparation used in French laundries. This may be made by the following recipe:
To one pound of chloride of lime add four and a half pints of water, and put in a jar with tight cover. In a separate vessel, dissolve 20 oz. of ordinary washing soda in four and a half pints of boiling water, and immediately pour it into the first mixture. When cold add enough water to make eleven pints in all. Strain through muslin, settle, and pour off the clear solution. After using it care must be taken to rinse the paper thoroughly with water, as it tends to rot paper.
In the cleaning of pages care should be taken not to erase any marks made by the cataloging or accession departments. Rubbing must be done slowly and the pages held flat to prevent tearing. Rub from the inside outward. All traces of pumice stone, rubber, etc., should be carefully removed. If water and soap have been used, it may be necessary to put a pressing tin under the leaf, placing blotting paper on each side.
Fox marks may be removed by immersing the leaves in a weak solution of chlorine water and then transferring to a hot bath of very weak hydrochloric acid.
To remove creases from leaves accidentally folded, place the leaves between moistened blotters enclosed between dry blotters and press. This can be repeated until the crease is entirely removed. Sometimes creases may be ironed out with a hot iron.
Ink stains can be removed by any one of thestandard eradicators (oxalic acid followed by chloride of lime). Stains from pad ink used for dating stamps can be removed with benzine.
The edges of leaves on very soiled books may be sandpapered. In this case the book should be held very firm, if possible in a vise.
To Prevent Mildew or Mold
Occasionally books are accidentally soaked with water. In many a fire more damage is done by water than by fire. In such cases it may be a waste of time and money to reclaim ordinary books which can easily be replaced. It is a different matter when it comes to rare books and especially to manuscripts which cannot be replaced. Mr. J. I. Wyer, Jr., director of the New York State Library, in his annual report for 1911 describes as follows the method used in that library after the disastrous fire of that year.
The first step was to remove all covers. Each volume was then taken apart leaf by leaf, and each sheet was laid between print paper for drying. After twenty-four hours every leaf was again handled and placed between heavy blotting paper; after twenty-four hours here, each leaf was again removed to a second blotting paper. At all of these stages pressure was applied to facilitate the drying and keep the documents from wrinkling.... When each leaf had thus passed through these three drying processes, those belonging to the same volume were collected and carefully tied up in boxes or separate packages to wait until all the manuscripts were thus treated.... When all were dried, the manuscripts were arranged in volumes.... The rarest pieces will in time be mended, nearly all will be covered with crepeline, all will bemounted on fresh paper and carefully bound into new volumes.
The first step was to remove all covers. Each volume was then taken apart leaf by leaf, and each sheet was laid between print paper for drying. After twenty-four hours every leaf was again handled and placed between heavy blotting paper; after twenty-four hours here, each leaf was again removed to a second blotting paper. At all of these stages pressure was applied to facilitate the drying and keep the documents from wrinkling.... When each leaf had thus passed through these three drying processes, those belonging to the same volume were collected and carefully tied up in boxes or separate packages to wait until all the manuscripts were thus treated.... When all were dried, the manuscripts were arranged in volumes.... The rarest pieces will in time be mended, nearly all will be covered with crepeline, all will bemounted on fresh paper and carefully bound into new volumes.
Covers
Covers may be cleaned by the same materials as those used on pages, but the best method is to wash them with soap and water. For this reason the use of a washable cloth for covers, such as keratol, durabline, or fabrikoid, is an advantage. Miss Margaret Brown, in her pamphlet on mending, Library handbook No. 6, advises the use of a wash as follows: "Two parts good vinegar and one part water. Apply with a clean cloth and rub hard until dirt is removed, then place upright to dry. This should not be used on leather."
Grease spots may be removed from both leather and cloth by covering with a blotter and ironing with a hot iron. The same method will partially remove paint or varnish.
For a great variety of cleansing receipts see Coutts and Stephen's "Manual of library bookbinding," Chapter X.
Covers that have warped must be dampened and put under pressure.
Shellacking of covers has been advocated by some librarians, but it is doubtful if it pays. It may be used in the interests of cleanliness on books bound in light colored cloth and on books in towns where the atmosphere is very smoky. It is a process which takes some time since two coats of shellac must be applied, and it does not increase the wear of the cloth to any great extent. As a regular part of preparingthe book for use it takes more time and material than it is worth.
Sometimes a book becomes wonderfully rejuvenated simply by having its cover and edges cleaned and a new pocket pasted in the back.
It is very desirable that mending should not be done by inexperienced assistants, for an uninstructed beginner may do as much harm as good.
Torn Pages
Torn pages may be mended in any one of the following ways:
1. If the tear does not affect the printing, cut a strip of thin, tough bond paper one-half inch wide, a little longer than the tear to be covered, put through pasting-machine and cover the tear, trimming the overhang even with the page.
2. If the page is torn into the text, and the book is not valuable commercially, use ungummed onion skin about one-half inch wide and apply as above. If onion skin is not available a very thin, tough bond paper will do very well. Use a thin coating of paste, first putting a piece of white paper under the page to absorb extra paste.
3. If torn in the text and it is desirable to make as good a job as possible, use the following method:
Rub a very little paste on the torn edges, and place them together. Then take a rather large piece of ordinary tissue paper and rub it gently along the tear so that the tissue paper will adhere to the torn edges.Put under the press; when dry the superfluous tissue paper should be torn off, taking care to pull always toward the tear and from both sides at the same time. The delicate fibre of the tissue paper acts as an adhesive in such a way that it is almost impossible to discern how the mending was done.
4. If the margin of the leaf of a valuable book is torn in several places, take two sheets of paper the size of the leaf, cut out from the middle of each a piece a little larger than the letter-press of the book; trim the torn leaf so that it remains somewhat larger than the space cut out of the blank leaves; place it between these two leaves and paste down, thus forming new margins.
Books that have torn leaves mended may be put into the press, but it is not strictly necessary. When very much of this mending is done pressing is impossible unless a standing press is at hand.
A few books such as Granger's Index and some of the Poole's Index volumes should have the first few pages entirely reinforced with cloth. The best cloth for this purpose is crepeline, through which the text can be easily read. When applying it put a thin layer of paste on the leaf and then put on the cloth. The book should then be pressed, first protecting adjoining pages with paper.
Loose Leaves
Loose leaves may be inserted in several ways:
1. Lay a piece of white paper over the leaf, allowing one-eighth of an inch of back margin of the leaf to project. Paste this exposed surface andattach it to the adjoining leaf in the book, pressing down firmly. This can be done only when adjoining leaves are firm.
2. Sometimes the leaf when inserted will extend beyond the fore edge of the book. Trimming of either back margin or fore edge is inadvisable. It is possible to turn over about one-eighth of an inch of back margin, using some kind of straight edge for this purpose. Apply paste to turned over part and press the fold well down into the book. This will give more freedom to the leaf than if one-eighth of an inch has been cut off and another eighth of an inch pasted.
3. Fold strips of thin bond paper cut with the grain, three-fourths of an inch in width, through the center. Paste the outside. Attach the loose leaf to one side and attach the other side to the adjoining leaf in the book. It will be necessary to work quickly because the paper strips when wet will cause a wrinkling of the leaf. This method can be used only if adjoining leaf is firm, but can never be employed with overcasting.
4. If necessary to use as little paste as possible, apply paste to a piece of common soft string by drawing it over a board covered with paste. Then draw the string through the book at the back. The leaf may then be inserted.
Loose Signatures
Ordinarily when one signature becomes loose others speedily follow, and the book must be sent to the bindery unless it is withdrawn absolutely.Sometimes, however, one section will become loose when the rest of the book is firm and solid, sometimes also the use a book will receive does not warrant binding. In such cases, if the book has a loose back, open the section in the middle and place it in its proper place in the book. Thread a darning-needle with Hayes' No. 25 thread (or Barbour No. 40), pass the needle through the hole at top of the section (the kettlestitch hole) in such a way as to bring it out at the top of the book between the book and the loose back. Draw thread through, allowing a few inches to remain inside the section. Drop needle through the loose back, insert it from the back through the kettlestitch hole at tail of the book. The thread can then be tied to the thread projecting at the upper kettlestitch hole. This is a makeshift, but may answer if the book is not to receive hard usage. If the back of the signature is badly worn, mend it by guarding with jaconet on the outside, or by pasting a strip of bond paper down through the center of the fold.
Tight Backs
For tight backs cut a guard of firm, thin cloth, such as cambric or jaconet, about three-fourths of an inch wide and as long as the book. Sew the section to the middle of the guard, and paste the guard to the book, one-half to each of the adjoining leaves. Press this guard well back into the book. This can be done only when the adjoining pages are securely held.
Loose Joints
It frequently happens that a book in the original publisher's cover becomes loose at the joint, because the super used as back-lining cannot stand the strain put upon it. Ordinarily, a book defective in this manner should be bound at once; but if it is deemed best to attempt mending it, a strip of jaconet should be cut 1-1/4 inches wide and the length of the book. Paste one-half of this to the cover and the other to the adjoining fly-leaf, thus transferring the strain from the super to the fly-leaf. This method can also be used to mend a break in the middle of a book, but should never be used if the book must eventually be rebound.
Another method of mending a loose joint is to remove the book entirely from the cover, sew on new end papers guarded with muslin, and cover the back of the book with canton flannel which extends three-fourths of an inch on each side. When dry, paste the entire back of book and sides and put the book back into the cover, pasting down the new end paper. This is, in effect, recasing. (See page 184.)
Sometimes books which are loose at the joints and have loose signatures may be mended by applying paste with a long-handled paste brush to the backs of the signatures. This must never be done if it is possible that the book will need to be rebound later.
Fly-Leaves
To add new fly-leaves, cut paper suitable for this purpose the same length as the old fly-leaves and one-half inch wider. Fold over this one-half inch,paste it on the outside and attach it to the old fly-leaf. If necessary, this may be used as a new end paper and pasted to the cover over the old end paper. If used as an end paper, the book should be pressed promptly to prevent it from warping.
Repair of Maps
All old or mutilated maps or charts must be flattened out by placing the maps between large millboards with heavy weights over them, before they can be inserted in books. Repairs may be made with onion skin paper or any other thin, tough paper, the same as is done with torn leaves in books. If the map is very old and valuable, it may be advisable to use paper which resembles in a way the texture and color of the map itself.
It is advisable to mount all maps on some kind of cloth. It is best to have this done by a regular binder, but it may be done in the library if there is sufficient room.
If the map is to go on rollers, a piece of cotton cloth is tacked to a large table, the top of the cloth pasted, and the map placed on top, back down, all wrinkles having been removed. Millboards or strawboards are then placed on the map and weights placed on top until it is dry. This may take some time, after which it may be tacked to the rollers.
If it is a folding map or chart, it may be necessary to cut the map into sections before mounting. When mounted there will be one-eighth of an inch space between sections, so that the map itself will notbe defaced through constant folding. The mounting of such maps is a difficult task and should be done only by an expert.