WE LEAVE KOOLOOKOO, ACCOMPANIED BY A NUMBER OF THE BASÉ—THE MAGIC LANTERN—SEE BUFFALO AND GIRAFFE FOR THE FIRST TIME—TWO BUFFALOS KILLED—A BASÉ FEAST—CURIOUS BASÉ DANCE—THEY DRY THEIR MEAT ON LINES IN THE SUN—A WOUNDED BUFFALO—HOODOO, CHIEF SHEIK OF THE BASÉ, VISITS US—A COLUMN OF SAND—A LEPER—THE BASÉ SQUABBLE OVER THE MEAT—WE ARRIVE AT ABYSSINIA.
WE LEAVE KOOLOOKOO, ACCOMPANIED BY A NUMBER OF THE BASÉ—THE MAGIC LANTERN—SEE BUFFALO AND GIRAFFE FOR THE FIRST TIME—TWO BUFFALOS KILLED—A BASÉ FEAST—CURIOUS BASÉ DANCE—THEY DRY THEIR MEAT ON LINES IN THE SUN—A WOUNDED BUFFALO—HOODOO, CHIEF SHEIK OF THE BASÉ, VISITS US—A COLUMN OF SAND—A LEPER—THE BASÉ SQUABBLE OVER THE MEAT—WE ARRIVE AT ABYSSINIA.
On the 3rd February we made a further advance, starting at 11 a.m., and encamping at 4 p.m., again on the river-bed, at Aibara. This day we marched for the space of five hours through a forest; the heat was very great, and the ground over which we travelled was full of large, deep cracks, often two or three inches wide, caused by the contraction of the earth, which had been subjected to a continuous baking by the hot sun since the rainy season. Oftentimes could be seen the great footprint of anelephant, now quite a moulded one, having been there since the rainy season. On leaving Koolookoo we were accompanied by about 80 or 100 of the inhabitants, having nothing with them but spear and shield. We knew what this meant—that we should have to provide them with food—a rather large undertaking considering that our own party, including camel-men, horse-boys, and servants, numbered about 40 or 50. Accordingly a delicate hint was conveyed to our new body-guard, that our own people would first of all have to be provided with food; then if there was plenty of meat to spare they would be quite welcome to it. To this arrangement they amiably acceded. Onterra firmawe could have made a good stand with our rifles and revolvers in case of attack, but had these Basé thought proper, at a preconcerted signal, to make an onslaught on our long straggling caravan, I am afraid we should have fared very badly, notwithstanding our being well armed. However, I think their principal reason for coming with us was to have a continual feast of meat, an article of diet they were capable of stowing away as capaciously as a lion would do, and with as little ceremony. In the evening three sheiks paid us a visit, each going through the ceremony of “aman.” After dinner the magic lantern was exhibited, and this excitedtheir astonishment even more than it did that of the Beni-Amirs. I do not intend to go into a description much of hunting-scenes, as they would occupy too much space, and I do not think that the frequent repetition of such scenes would be interesting to the generality of my readers; besides which I have no doubt Mr. F. L. James has done this in his book. Suffice it to say that as there was abundance of game of every description, scarcely a day passed without plenty being brought into camp.
February 4th.—Off at 10.30 a.m., halt at 5 p.m.; pitch tents at Maissasser, on the bank of the Mareb, and quite close to jungle. About 12 o’clock, as our camels were slowly winding along the bed of the Mareb, a grand bull buffalo, an enormous beast, dashed right across in front of us, raising quite a cloud of dust. This was the first buffalo we had seen; at half-past 4 p.m. we saw three more, and just afterwards a giraffe. There was a good deal of chuckling now at the prospect of sport in store, and we resolved to encamp here for the next two or three days. To-day we saw miles of country on fire. The country looks much greener in this neighbourhood; trees and jungle abundant, and water much nearer to the surface.
February 5th.—Last night, about 11 o’clock, just as I had gone to sleep, I was considerably startledby several rifle shots, one after the other. In an instant I was out of bed, rifle in hand, rushed out of my tent in my slippers and night shirt, not knowing what to think; the first idea naturally was that we were being attacked. Messrs. F. L. James and Phillipps, who slept in another tent, were also out, clad in the same airy costume as myself, and, like me, each with a rifle in his hand. All this was the work of a minute—we had scarcely time to say, “Whatever is the meaning of it all?” when close behind my tent, amongst the thick stems of the tall grass, there was a sound as of a rushing mighty wind. This was enough; the whole affair was explained at once; we knew directly that this was nothing less than a herd of buffalos, and I am very thankful that they just avoided my tent, which could as easily have been upset by them as a box of matches. It seems that just after we had gone to bed, the others, Messrs. Colvin, P. Aylmer, W. D. and A. James, “from information received,” took their rifles (it was a bright moonlight night) and stole out cautiously to the edge of the jungle. There they saw a herd of buffalos drinking, and into it they discharged their rifles with pretty good effect, for about 11 o’clock this morning one of the herd was found dead in the jungle pretty near to camp. A camel was sent tothe spot to bring home the quarters for food, and the head, of course, as a trophy. A great number of the Basé were pretty quickly on the spot; then there ensued such a scene as I had never before witnessed, and which almost baffles description. I will, however, endeavour to describe it, as some of my readers might like to be furnished with particulars. Invalids, persons of delicate organization and others, might, however, like to omit this little account of a Basé feast, which I assure them will not have an appetising effect. I may here say that there is not the least occasion for me to draw on my imagination and indulge in what some people facetiously call “crackers,” which I have not and shall not do, as there is no necessity for doing so, there being abundance of material of a strictly veracious character which I cull from my diary, written carefully down at the time. Incredible as some accounts may appear, I must ask my readers to accept these facts without the usual formulacum grano salis. Very well, then, I will write down, and you, reader, can read, mark, and inwardly digest (if you please)withoutthe usual proverbial pinch of salt, a description of a scene that I was an eye-witness of, and if I should somewhat interfere with your enjoyment, when called from labour to refreshment, don’t blame me, but blame the Basé. All I can say is, that this is notwhat incredulous people call “a traveller’s tale,” but a “true story.” Do not say, “It strikes me that he doth protest too much.”
I recollect to have seen somewhere or other a pamphlet entitled “The Stomach and Its Trials.” That useful organ in the human body of Basé does not appear to be subject to usual inconveniences, but accommodates itself to circumstances, not unlike an india-rubber bag. The only trials I saw them suffer was trying how much they could stow away without causing a rupture of that viscera.
Well, to continue. As soon as the animal was opened they fell upon the intestines like hungry wolves. Oh! such a scramble for tit-bits. There were our dusky friends very soon ankle-deep in the viscera, and about 20 pairs of hands clutching at them. Two would perhaps get hold of the same piece, and pull away like a couple of dogs, until a knife produced a solution of continuity. Another group could be seen hacking away at pieces of the liver, and cramming the warm, quivering morsels into their mouths. One could be seen stuffing a lump of fat into his mouth with one hand, the other at the same time would be industriously employed in rubbing this adipose tissue into his hair. Another appeared to have a predilection for kidneys; and sothis disgusting feast went on, until the whole interior of the animal was consumed, without such absurd preliminaries as cooking.
One would naturally suppose that I should be busy at my medicine-chest next day, but not one of them even so much as troubled me for a pill afterwards. They might truly say, “We are fearfully and wonderfully made;” and after this exhibition of digestive powers, I should be obliged to coincide with them. When they had gorged themselves like boa-constrictors, I should not exaggerate if I said that they presented a most filthy and disgusting spectacle. Their proportions were quite aldermanic, and their mouths, faces, and arms up to the elbows were smeared with fat and gore. Had this buffalo lived a month or two longer she would have become a mother.
We do not consider very young veal wholesome, but whether the Basé thought thisveryyoung buffalo would be a delicacy they must not touch I know not; at all events it was brought into camp. We gave it the Basé, who appeared quite pleased. In less than ten minutes afterwards we saw three of them engaged in tearing it limb from limb, and eating it without going through the formality of cooking. The quarters of buffalo, senior, were divided between our men and Basé; the hide wascut up into sections and given to the sheiks and others to make into shields.
Messrs. Colvin and Aylmer shot to-day two mehedehét. This is a very beautiful antelope, possessing a very rough coat, a fine pair of horns, slightly curved and annulated; is about 13 hands high, and in colour much resembles the red deer. Messrs. F. L. and W. James stalked an ostrich for two hours, but did not succeed in bringing him down.
We were encamped on a little plateau by the side of the Mareb, close to a great jungle. On the opposite side of this wide river-bed were very many trees of different kinds, and on both sides rocky mountains. Just by our camp, on the sandy river-bed, the Basé were encamped. Notwithstanding their mid-day feast on the uncooked internals of the buffalo, they were ready and willing for another set to in the evening—this time of cooked meat. Whether this second gorge had a stimulating and intoxicating effect on them I don’t know, but just as we were off to our various tents for the night, at 9.30 p.m., we heard strange noises issuing from the Basé camp. Messrs. A. James, Colvin, and I were curious to ascertain the cause, so down we went amongst them, and this is what we saw, and what I have some difficulty in describing:—
All the Basé were engaged in a peculiar dance,four or six abreast, and so close to each other as to be almost touching; those behind always treading in the footsteps of those in front, whilst each one held his spear aloft at arm’s-length. What they were saying I don’t exactly know, but it was a dance of joy celebrating their feast of meat. A few words as a solo would be sung, then all would join in chorus. This went on for about half an hour; then they broke up and went through a wild war-dance—now flying forwards and darting out their spears at an imaginary enemy whilst protecting themselves with their shields, then nimbly retreating, crouching and springing like wild cats. It was a novel and singular spectacle to see nearly a hundred of these black savages, with their glittering spears, agile as monkeys, leaping in and out between about 30 flickering fires on the river-bed. Like the Pharisee of old, I could not help (mentally) exclaiming, “Thank God I am not as these men are.”
I then retired to rest, and slept peacefully and soundly until the following morning.
February 6th.—Soon after breakfast we saw, stretched from tree to tree near the camp, what appeared like clothes-lines with stockings suspended on them to dry. The Basé had made ropes out of the palm-leaves, and on these the meat which they could not then dispose of hung in strips and festoonsto dry. When dried, they would stuff them into gazelle skins, or bags of some kind, for future use. To-day about 40 of them returned to Koolookoo, well-charged with meat, both in their own skins and that of gazelles; the rest remained with us.
This morning another buffalo, which was wounded on the night of the 4th, was found, but not dead. He, however, received hiscoup de gracefrom Mr. Colvin’s rifle, but not until he had made a furious charge, though so badly wounded, fortunately without any ill-results. A wounded buffalo is about as dangerous and fierce an animal as can be met with, and will charge most savagely if he is only within five minutes of death, provided his limbs will support him. We had plenty of meat brought into camp, for in addition to this buffalo, two nellut, a mora, and two buffalos were shot. Temperature at 1.30, solar thermometer 150°, wet bulb 66°, dry bulb in shade 90°.
This has been rather an exciting day, as Mr. W. James saw and stalked three giraffes, but was not successful in getting near enough for a shot. Sali, the tracker, saw three ostriches and a rhinoceros, the latter pretty close to him, and I two full-grown elephants a distance off, but none of them were bagged. No doubt had these elephants been followed up for a day or so they could have been got at, but they were not. Messrs. A. James andColvin followed them up next day for many miles, but not far enough.
February 7th.—Messrs. Colvin and A. James, who went in quest of the two elephants, returned about 4 p.m., without having seen them. In the evening Hoodoo, chief sheik of the Basé, paid us a visit, bringing with him a pot of wild honey as a present. He went through the formality of making “aman” with us, after which he squatted on his haunches in the usual native fashion.
During a long pow-wow which ensued, I was busy making mental notes of Hoodoo, not by any means complimentary to that august personage. He was a dirty-looking old fellow, as scantily dressed as his colleagues, nearly black, with an ill-favoured, sinister cast of countenance, and not by any means a man whom I should place unbounded confidence in. He received several presents, amongst others a bernouse and a rather gorgeous-looking abia (a cloak-looking kind of thing), with gold braid ornamentation around the neck. He seemed mightily pleased with these. He then joined his comrades’ camp, and we went to our dinner.
This was rather a nice camping-ground, but quite unsheltered from the sun by trees. However, we provided a shelter by cutting down some young trees, fixing them in the ground and making a covering of matting, tall grass, and palm leaves,which were obtainable close by. So great was the heat now that the ink dried in my pen ere I could write three lines on a page of foolscap. However, I was fortunately provided with Mappin and Webb’s stylographic pen, which is really invaluable in such hot climates. Always about 12 or 1 o’clock a slight breeze would spring up, producing occasionally a very curious phenomenon. A very high column of dust (perhaps half a mile in height) would come whirling and waltzing along right through the middle of the camp, and so long as it was not hidden by trees or mountains I could see it spinning on and on, looking in the distance like a column of smoke. A good deal of sport was obtained in this neighbourhood, chiefly buffalos and antelopes of different kinds.
February 8th.—We struck our tents and were in marching order by 11 a.m. After an easy journey through some pretty good country, where vegetation was abundant, we encamped at 3 p.m. on a nice bit of land by the Mareb amongst many tall trees and shrubs, which afforded a good shade. Here we purposed remaining for a week at least, as big game of all kinds was plentiful, and here for the first time we found rhinoceros’ tracks. This place is called Maiambasar, and is situated on the border of Abyssinia. Water is near the surface here. During the journey I have noticed that as we have gotnearer to Abyssinia we have found the water nearer the surface. We heard panthers, hyænas, and lions last night near camp, but lions are not so plentiful as they were a few days ago.
February 9th.—Abdullah, a black boy, who looks after my camel, has been walking very lame during the last few days, having considerable swelling at the knee. I find he has a large abscess, produced by a guinea-worm. He comes from Algeden, which is about five days from here between Kassala and Souheet. He says guinea-worm is very common there and on the White Nile.
Strange to say, all returned to camp in the evening without having obtained game of any kind, although out all day. Mr. Aylmer, whilst in search of game, suddenly came upon a rather curious scene. There, on the mountain side, scarcely sheltered from the burning rays of the sun, was an old man suffering from leprosy, miles away, apparently, from any human being or habitation. Food and water had been placed near him, to which he could help himself. Mr. Aylmer informed me that the surrounding atmosphere was charged with the stench arising from the decomposed food which was scattered around the place. I should say that most probably that old man furnished a meal for one of the wild beasts ere long.
February 10th.—Two buffalos and two nellutkilled this day. One, a bull buffalo, was an enormous beast, and probably the hero of many a fight, for one of his horns had been knocked short off, one eye knocked out, whilst his forehead was covered with scars—evidently a disreputable, cantankerous old buffalo. His carcase was given to the Basé, who were well pleased with the donation. The Koolookoo Basé who came with us through the country would, I daresay, have divided the meat amicably between them, as their Sheik was with them, but their number had been materially increased by other Basé.
In the evening, during the division of the spoil, just outside our camp, a great difference of opinion prevailed as tomeumandtuum. Knives, clubs, spears, and staves were freely brandished amid a chorus of yells and shouts, ending in a scramble for the joints and pieces of meat. Some of them secured a reasonable share, and trotted with it; others, again, not so fortunate, would intercept a fugitive caressing, perhaps, the thigh of the deceased buffalo. Then a desperate struggle would ensue between them, five or six pulling away in different directions. Fortunately all was settled without bloodshed, peace reigned in the camp, and we all retired to our respective tents at a respectable hour.
THE DEMBELAS ATTACK US, MAHOMET WOUNDED,—NARROW ESCAPE OF TWO OF OUR PARTY—ACTIVITY IN CAMP, WE MAKE A ZAREEBA AND FIRE THE COUNTRY—HOLD A COUNCIL OF WAR—OUR SILENT AND DANGEROUS RIDE—HOODOO’S SAGACITY—ARRIVAL IN CAMP OF MAHOMET, WOUNDED—WE RETREAT—MAHOMET’S DEATH AND BURIAL.
THE DEMBELAS ATTACK US, MAHOMET WOUNDED,—NARROW ESCAPE OF TWO OF OUR PARTY—ACTIVITY IN CAMP, WE MAKE A ZAREEBA AND FIRE THE COUNTRY—HOLD A COUNCIL OF WAR—OUR SILENT AND DANGEROUS RIDE—HOODOO’S SAGACITY—ARRIVAL IN CAMP OF MAHOMET, WOUNDED—WE RETREAT—MAHOMET’S DEATH AND BURIAL.
February 11th, 1882, was the most memorable day of the whole campaign. Thinking it was not safe to leave the camp without protectors, Messrs. W. D. and A. James and I remained in camp, whilst Messrs. F. L. James and Colvin went out in one direction and Phillipps and Aylmer in another, in search of big game. Each party went out mounted on ponies, which had been bought for the purpose at Kassala and Heikota. Each party took an agreegeer, or huntsman, a horse-boy, camel-boy, and camel with them, the latter for the purpose ofcarrying home the game. They started soon after 8 a.m., Messrs. Phillipps and Aylmer went in the direction of some mountains on the Abyssinian border, whilst Messrs. James and Colvin took the opposite side of the Mareb. We amused ourselves in camp in reading, writing letters, or posting up diaries. Keeping my diary carefully and correctly posted up day by day was a duty which I most religiously attended to before ever I retired to rest, however fatigued I may have been by the day’s march. Incidents and impressions written down at the time are more likely to be correct than if left to memory. From my diary I quote the following particulars:—
“About 1.30 p.m., just as we were about to sit down to luncheon, Messrs. Aylmer and Phillipps came into camp looking considerably chop-fallen and exhausted, and having only one horse between them. Of course we did not expect either party home until 5 or 6 p.m., so I said to Aylmer—
“‘Hallo! how is it you are back so soon, and looking so precious serious?’
“‘I can tell you, doctor, this is no laughing matter,’ said he, ‘for we have been attacked by the Abyssinians or Dembelas, and very likely they will soon be down on our camp.’
“This certainly did look a serious business,especially as we had no zareeba round the camp; so I said—
“‘Well, the best thing we can do is to have our luncheon at once; then we shall be more fit for work.’”
The wisdom of this suggestion was apparent, and at once acted upon. Whilst it was being brought I strapped on my revolver, brought out my diary and entered the above conversation. Mahomet Sali and others were at once sent out as scouts in search of Messrs. James and Colvin, with a promise of five dollars each to those who brought them into camp. We then sat down to luncheon, and the following account was given of this affair, and was duly entered in my diary immediately afterwards, as we did not know when we might be attacked, and I was desirous of leaving my diary posted up complete to latest date.
Aylmer’s story:—“We had got about eight or nine miles from camp on the sandy river-bed, quite in a hollow, precipitous rocks and trees on each side of us, when suddenly about 30 strangers, who turned out to be Dembelas, appeared. We thought they were Abyssinians, because they were so much lighter in colour than Arabs, and, of course, quite different in every respect from the Basé. Some of them seized our hands and commenced kissing them profusely,exclaiming ‘Aman, aman,’ at the same time beckoning us to lay down our rifles. Now, although we thought they were friendly, we did not think it wise to be so confiding as this, until Mahomet, the agreegeer (who, we supposed, knew more of the customs of these people than we did), lay down his, beckoning us to do the same, saying it would be better to do so. One fellow, wearing a felt hat, was more demonstrative even than the others. Well, we followed Mahomet’s example; no sooner had we done so (we had four rifles with us and about 50 cartridges) than they were immediately seized, and a struggle ensued for their possession. The man wearing the felt hat seized a valuable elephant rifle, vaulted on to the back of Mr. Phillipps’s horse and galloped off. Attached to the saddle of that horse was his revolver, a number of cartridges, and a field-glass. The horse-boy vanished like smoke, whilst his horse was taken possession of by another of the enemy. They attempted to spear the camel-boy, missed him and speared the camel. Phillipps received a blow from the butt-end of a rifle which would have prostrated him had not his helmet protected his head. He, however, turned round, closed with his assailant, and succeeded in wrenching the rifle from him. I pulled the trigger of my revolver, but onaccount of sand, which obstructed it, I could not discharge it.
“In the hubbub which ensued Mahomet could nowhere be seen, and about 8 or 10 Basé (who had accompanied us, with the intention of having a feast and cutting up the animal into quarters) vanished at once. We were now alone, and by this time there were about 100 yelling demons brandishing their spears, whooping and leaping about. Under such circumstances we thought discretion the better part of valour, so we fled with one horse between us, and have made the best of our way to camp, riding and walking by turns.”
This really was very alarming news, and we quite expected that we should soon be fully occupied in defending ourselves from an attack.
We now resolved to fire the country all round and construct a strong zareeba. Before I fell to with the axe I once more sought out my diary and chronicled the above. All then fell to with a will, cutting down all the prickly trees in the neighbourhood, dragging them round the camp and so forming a very strong zareeba. This was no joke when the solar thermometer registered about 150°, and the heat was 100° in the shade.
Whilst we were thus employed the horse-boy made his appearance, streaming with blood, hisflesh being torn by the cruel thorns as he rushed blindly on. We now set fire to all the tall grass and bushes in the neighbourhood. The terrific speed with which it spread was surprising, miles of country were soon in flames. The crackling of the grass and trees resembled more than anything else the most fierce hailstorm I ever saw.
Now the camel-boy turned up and this was his account of the affair:—Just as he leaped off the camel he saw Mahomet on the ground, whilst one of the Dembelas darted his spear at him several times; then left him writhing. He went to his assistance, and helped him along some distance, whilst poor Mahomet supported his intestines (which had gushed out) in his tope. At last the poor fellow sank down under a tree, saying—
“I can go no further; I shall soon die. Save yourself; make haste to camp and tell the gentlemen to make a strong zareeba at once as they will certainly be attacked, probably to-night.”
By this time Messrs. F. James and Colvin, who had been found by the scouts, arrived. We at once held a council of war, and determined not only to go in search of Mahomet, but to attack the Dembelas if we could find them, leaving two of our company in camp to command the men in case of attack. All the neighbouring Basé, we found, had bolted—Elongi,the Sheik from Koolookoo, and his men, alone remained, and promised to stand by us and fight for us if necessary.
Our armoury consisted of about 22 shot-guns and rifles, and about a dozen six-chambered revolvers. All the camel-men and native servants were armed with spear and shield. Having provided ourselves each with rifle, revolver, and cartridges, our two European servants; Suleiman, Ali, and Cheriff also; we called up our native servants. To the most trusty of these, including Beyrumfi, our guide, Mahomet Sali, Sali, the tracker, and Ali Bacheet, the head camel-man, we entrusted the remainder of our firearms, but unfortunately most of them had to be instructed in the use of them.
I provided myself with a few bandages, lint, and my pocket case of surgical instruments, and feeling that we were embarking on a very perilous enterprise, left instructions respecting my immortal diary, which would convey full information up to the time of our departure from camp.
Just as we were getting into the saddle who should turn up but the Chief Sheik, Hoodoo, who left our last camping place the morning after his arrival. Heappearedsurprised at all this commotion. Whether he was really so or not I do not know, but I am sure, from the very first, I did notfeel that I should repose in him the trustful confidence of an innocent child.
Our little army consisted now of Messrs. F. L. and A. James, Phillipps, Aylmer, myself, six of our men with firearms, the Koolookoo Sheik, and 15 of his men with spear and shield. We started off, on whatmightprove to be our last journey, about 4 p.m. And I think we shall all remember that silent ride of eight miles up the sandy river-bed of the Mareb to Abyssinia, shaded often by trees which thickly adorned the banks. We well knew, as we approached Abyssinia, that each bush may conceal an enemy, who might at any moment spring out on us unawares, and knowing this, each one clutched his rifle with a firm grip, ready for instant use, and determined to sell his life dearly if the worst came to the worst. I felt that our present position was something like that of Fitz-James, when he held the interesting conversation with Rhoderick Dhu which Sir Walter Scott so graphically describes—
Instant, through copse and heath, aroseBonnets, and spears, and bended bows;On right, on left, above, below,Sprang up at once the lurking foe;From shingles grey their lances start,The bracken-bush sends forth the dart,The rushes and the willow-wandAre bristling into axe and brand,And every tuft of broom gives lifeTo plaided warrior armed for strife.That whistle garrisoned the glenAt once with full five hundred men,As if the yawning hill to heavenA subterranean host had given.
Instant, through copse and heath, aroseBonnets, and spears, and bended bows;On right, on left, above, below,Sprang up at once the lurking foe;From shingles grey their lances start,The bracken-bush sends forth the dart,The rushes and the willow-wandAre bristling into axe and brand,And every tuft of broom gives lifeTo plaided warrior armed for strife.That whistle garrisoned the glenAt once with full five hundred men,As if the yawning hill to heavenA subterranean host had given.
Instant, through copse and heath, arose
Bonnets, and spears, and bended bows;
On right, on left, above, below,
Sprang up at once the lurking foe;
From shingles grey their lances start,
The bracken-bush sends forth the dart,
The rushes and the willow-wand
Are bristling into axe and brand,
And every tuft of broom gives life
To plaided warrior armed for strife.
That whistle garrisoned the glen
At once with full five hundred men,
As if the yawning hill to heaven
A subterranean host had given.
No one spoke above a whisper as we stole silently and quickly on, until at last we arrived at the scene of the scuffle.
It was a wild and strange retreat,As e’er was trod by outlaw’s feet.The dell, upon the mountain’s crest,Yawned like a gash on warrior’s breast.
It was a wild and strange retreat,As e’er was trod by outlaw’s feet.The dell, upon the mountain’s crest,Yawned like a gash on warrior’s breast.
It was a wild and strange retreat,
As e’er was trod by outlaw’s feet.
The dell, upon the mountain’s crest,
Yawned like a gash on warrior’s breast.
Here, and in the neighbourhood, we searched about for Mahomet or his assailants. We spent two hours thus unsuccessfully, until darkness warned us it was time to return to camp.
The shades of eve come quickly down,The woods are wrapped in deeper brown,The owl awakens from her dell,The fox is heard upon the fell;Enough remains of glimmering lightTo guide the wanderer’s steps aright,Yet not enough from far to showHis figure to the watchful foe.
The shades of eve come quickly down,The woods are wrapped in deeper brown,The owl awakens from her dell,The fox is heard upon the fell;Enough remains of glimmering lightTo guide the wanderer’s steps aright,Yet not enough from far to showHis figure to the watchful foe.
The shades of eve come quickly down,
The woods are wrapped in deeper brown,
The owl awakens from her dell,
The fox is heard upon the fell;
Enough remains of glimmering light
To guide the wanderer’s steps aright,
Yet not enough from far to show
His figure to the watchful foe.
As we were returning, our attention was attracted to a large baobob tree full of vultures. Sali and Mahomet Sali thought we might find Mahomet’s bones, picked clean by these foul birds, near the tree. We, therefore, searched that neighbourhood, but found him not.
Darkness had come on ere we had retraced our way any distance, and we returned as silently as wehad advanced, keeping well on the alert until we neared the camp.
In dread, and danger, all alone,Famished and chilled, through ways unknown,Tangled and steep, we journeyed on;Till, as a rock’s huge point we turned,Our camp fire close before us burned.
In dread, and danger, all alone,Famished and chilled, through ways unknown,Tangled and steep, we journeyed on;Till, as a rock’s huge point we turned,Our camp fire close before us burned.
In dread, and danger, all alone,
Famished and chilled, through ways unknown,
Tangled and steep, we journeyed on;
Till, as a rock’s huge point we turned,
Our camp fire close before us burned.
It was about 10 p.m. by the time we got to camp. Dinner was soon on the table. This we at once discussed, also our plans for the next day. The line of action determined on was this—sentries were to be posted about the camp, and a few outside to guard against surprise. These, again, would be looked after by Suleiman. We should load up in the morning, and return to our former camp, first of all having another hunt for Mahomet. We could not divest our minds of the idea that we ought to attack these Dembelas if we could find them, and thought that perhaps our dirty old friend Hoodoo would assist us with some of the Basé. Accordingly, whilst seated round the camp fire after dinner, he was sounded on the matter, and promised £100 if he would lend a 100 of his people next morning. Hoodoo mentally said, “Hoo dont.” As a cautious look stole over his black face he raised his eyes from the camp fire for a moment, stealing a furtive glance at us; then, as he slowly shook his head, replied—
“I and my people will be here after you are gone, and if I was to do so the Abyssinians would come down on us, burn our villages, kill our men, and take our women and children as slaves.”
I assure you, reader, that when that old man shook his head he did not shake all the sense out of it. There was a good deal of logic in his remarks, and it is highly probable that had the old man accepted the offer made, he and many of his braves would soon have been translated (to use an orthodox phrase), and the merry dollars would have danced off into possession of the Dembelas; therefore the old man “deserved well of his country.” Indeed, his diplomatic action would almost entitle him to the appellation of a grand old man, though he did not look it.
February 12th.—The stillness of the night fortunately was not broken by the clash of arms, and I awoke, refreshed by a sound sleep, at 6 a.m. Whilst we were at breakfast Mr. F. James proposed that we again ask Sheik Hoodoo to let us have 200 of his men to assist us in making a raid on the enemy, and if he would not, that we should send the caravan back to the last camping place, and take about 20 of our own, as we were not at all satisfied to leave poor Mahomet (who might still be living)to his fate. Hoodoo was accordingly approached with the same result as before, he adding—
“I am at peace with them, and I cannot make your quarrel mine.”
The old man was about right. Six camels had yesterday been sent to Amadeb, a garrison town, for dhurra. We therefore had to divide their loads with the remaining camels. When most of the camels had their loads on, we told our men that we should want some of them to go with us. This (with the exception of about half-a-dozen) they flatly refused to do, saying that they were engaged as camel-drivers not to fight the Dembelas. They were evidently bent on retreating from the Abyssinian frontier whether we were or not. Suleiman, who knew these people pretty well, now stepped forward—
“What good you gentlemen go fight Dembelas? You only six or seven, the Dembelas hundreds. You do no good. Mahomet, he dead now, and the vultures eat him. If you go, these men go off with their camels. How, then, we get out of the country? The Basé and Abyssinians then turn round and kill us all.”
This was good reasoning. Abdullah now brought my camel ready for starting, so—pending the settlement of “to be or not to be”—I spread my rugon the ground and lay down to read a book, with my rifle by my side. It was now about 11 o’clock. I had not been here above ten minutes when I saw everyone rushing across the camp, rifle in hand, shouting—“Hakeem,” and “Doctor, doctor—quick!” I was up in an instant, rifle in hand, and darted across in the same direction as the others, naturally thinking—“The time has come at last. We are in for it now with the Dembelas.”
It was not an attack at all, but a most pitiful sight. There was poor Mahomet, who had managed to crawl into camp, then sank exhausted on the ground. The poor fellow turned his large soft-looking eyes piteously on to me. He was supporting with his hands and tope as much viscera—covered with sand dried on it, and quite adherent—as would fill a good-sized washing-basin. My rifle was at once dropped for my dressing-case; water was obtained, the opening (made by a spear) slightly enlarged, the viscera washed, replaced in the cavity of the abdomen, and the opening secured by a suture or two. He was in a state of collapse, and death pretty certain. He had also a wound in the fleshy part of the arm, and two others in the muscles of the back, just by the spine. Whilst I attended to these, some extract of beef and brandy was obtained, a fire soon kindled, anda good supply of brandy and beef-tea, administered, which soon revived him. An angarep was then rigged up, and twelve of the Basé (six at a time) were told off at a dollar each to carry him on to the next camp. I followed close by, giving him brandy and beef-tea every half-hour; but all was of no avail, for he died at 9 o’clock next morning. He was a Mahomedan. A tope as a shroud, with some needles and thread, were given to the friends. They would not, however, use the needle and thread, preferring the shreds of the palm leaf. A grave was dug near the camp, and there the poor fellow was buried; Suleiman remarking, “These Basé, they soon have Mahomet up; they not leave that good tope there long.” And I have no doubt he was right in his prediction.
Mahomet’s account of the scrimmage, and his escape to camp, was this: He stated that when the Abyssinians, or Dembelas, said “aman” it meant “Put down your arms and take your lives; we are stronger than you, so you must give up all you have.” He noticed that they were tremendously out-numbered, so thought it was the best thing to do. When he saw Mr. Phillipps trying to recover his rifle, another Abyssinian was about to strike him with the butt-end of a rifle; he rushed to his assistance, and it was then he received the fatalspear thrust in his abdomen, causing him to fall down on the sand, where he received two or three more, as detailed before. When everyone ran away, he tried to struggle on, succeeding ere night came on in getting pretty near to camp by alternately walking and resting awhile, until at last he sat under a tree quite exhausted. He says that he both saw and heard us when we were returning after our search for him, and that he cried out, but could not make us hear. The greater part of the way to camp next morning he accomplished by crawling on his hands and knees.
Who can imagine the sufferings of the poor fellow—out all night, sitting with his back to a tree? He said he felt the cold very much; and well he might, as, although the thermometer registered 101°F. in the shade at 1 p.m., it dropped to 37° by 11 p.m. He passed the night in constant expectation of a wild beast coming to tear him in pieces. We were very glad that we had him with us during his last few hours, where he received every attention that we could bestow.
February 13th.—Mahomet was buried, as I said before. Little was done to-day; one nellut and three gazelles were shot.
MESSRS. JAMES AND PHILLIPPS START ON A VISIT TO RASALULU—CURIOUS WAY OF SHAVING CHILDREN’S HEADS—A DISGUSTING BASÉ—THE CAMEL-DRIVERS BECOME MUTINOUS—INTENDED ATTACK BY BASÉ—WE FIRE THE COUNTRY AND MAKE A ZAREEBA—ENCAMP AT WO-AMMA—TROUBLE AGAIN WITH CAMEL-MEN—LIONS DISTURB US—ARRIVAL AT HEIKOTA—A TALE OF BLOOD AND SLAVERY.
MESSRS. JAMES AND PHILLIPPS START ON A VISIT TO RASALULU—CURIOUS WAY OF SHAVING CHILDREN’S HEADS—A DISGUSTING BASÉ—THE CAMEL-DRIVERS BECOME MUTINOUS—INTENDED ATTACK BY BASÉ—WE FIRE THE COUNTRY AND MAKE A ZAREEBA—ENCAMP AT WO-AMMA—TROUBLE AGAIN WITH CAMEL-MEN—LIONS DISTURB US—ARRIVAL AT HEIKOTA—A TALE OF BLOOD AND SLAVERY.
February 14th.—Made a rather short march, and encamped at Aibara, on some table-land by the Mareb. Ere doing so we had to clear away a quantity of mimosa bushes and young palms; then construct a zareeba. Mr. Phillipps, at the request of one of the Basé, shot a monkey to-day. This was skinned and eaten by them in the evening, and was, no doubt, looked upon as a delicate morsel, probably as much so as grouse or partridge is with us.
February 15th.—This morning, at 9 a.m., Messrs. Phillipps and F. James went off to Amadeb, to complain to Rasalulu, a deputy of King John of Abyssinia, about our late attack, and endeavour to get their rifles back. Whether they ever succeeded in doing so I don’t know; but I should think probably not.
To-day we lost another camel; this makes the sixth we have lost in the Basé country. A camel is a particularly stupid kind of animal, and does not seem to know what is good for him, or rather, what is bad for him, for he will frequently eat a very poisonous green-looking shrub, called “heikabeet.” This appears to produce considerable pain, and, as far as I could make out, inflammation of the intestines. I brought some of it home with the intention of having it analysed, but somehow or other it has got lost.
February 16th.—The Basé women and children, when we first came here, were rather shy, and ran away from us as if we were monsters of iniquity; now they appear to be getting quite tame, and are continually hanging about the camp. The heads of the children are curiously trimmed, according to fancy, just as they are at Kassala. All kinds of fantastical devices are arranged, with the aid of a razor, just as a gardener operates on a box bush inEngland. I have seen a child’s head shaved completely, with the exception of a tuft of hair just over the right temple; another will have a tuft on each side, whilst a third will have those and one on the crown in addition; another will have several other little islands, and another a tuft running from the forehead to the back of the head, just for all the world like a clown in a circus, and so on.
Ali Bacheet to-day injured his foot with an axe. I bathed it, and whilst getting a bandage one of the Basé diligently employed himself in sucking it, then rinsed his mouth two or three times with the bloody water which had washed his foot. This I thought was a somewhat nasty proceeding, but I did not waste my breath in expostulating with these men of primitive habits.
Five tetél were shot to-day. In the evening our men with the dhurra from Amadeb returned.
February 17th.—Last night our camel-drivers, with their singing, and hyænas howling and laughing, much disturbed our slumbers. This morning the Basé here were very uneasy in their minds, being under the impression that we had sent to Amadeb for Turkish soldiers. However, I think we made them believe—what really was the case—that Messrs. James and Phillipps had gone to lay a complaint about the Dembelas.
Just after dinner, whilst we were sitting round the camp fire smoking the pipe of peace, the camel-men whom we had hired at Kassala came in a body to us, saying they wanted to return to Kassala, stating as a reason that they were afraid of the Basé and Abyssinians, they being so few in number. We gave them distinctly to understand that we were neither afraid of them nor the Basé; for the latter we had plenty of bullets if they interfered with us, and for our camel-drivers who did so we had the coorbatch, and so we dismissed them to chew the cud of reflection.
Two tetél shot to-day by Messrs. Colvin and A. James, and several beautiful birds by me. We are passing a very peaceful and calm existence at present, little to do except to amuse ourselves as fancy dictates. Some go out on horseback in search of antelopes or buffalos; I generally content myself just here with taking out a shot-gun after breakfast, prowling round in quest of some of the beautiful plumaged birds which are so numerous, and in the afternoon write up my diary and prepare letters for post. After that read one of the many interesting books which we have until 6 p.m., when we all have our evening bath, just before dinner, which was always ready at 7 p.m. After dinner we sit round the camp fire and chat over the socialpipe, when some go to bed, and I skin and prepare my birds to bring home.
We had a capital library with us, and were never short of most interesting works, such as Macaulay’s Essays, Sir Samuel Baker’s “Nile Tributaries,” Trollope’s, Dicken’s, Thackeray’s, Disraeli’s, and other works.
February 18th.—A young baboon and a small monkey were captured yesterday; this day they are quite tame, allowing us to stroke them without exhibiting any signs of fear. Unfortunately the young baboon had been injured in the thigh by a spear which severed the muscles, causing the wound to gape very much. The flies annoyed him so much that I determined to put him under chloroform, and bring the edges together by means of two or three silver sutures. I therefore put him on the table, where he lay as quietly and sensibly as any human being, looking up at me with his nice brown eyes in a very human-being like kind of way. He almost seemed to say, “I know it is for my good, doctor; don’t hurt me more than you can help, and be quick about it.” He took the chloroform very well, and when complete anæsthesia had been produced I relinquished the post of chloroformist to an assistant, with suitable instructions. He, however, was so intent in watching the operation that sufficientair was not admitted with the anæsthetic, the result being that just as I had finished putting in the last suture our poor little friend looked to all appearance dead. I at once set up artificial respiration, but to no purpose—the vital spark had fled.
Two Basé sheiks from Kokassie visited our camp to-day. They had a short pow-wow both on their arrival and departure. They kissed our hands profusely—overdid it, we thought; we were apt to look with suspicion on an excessive manifestation of friendship.
February 19th.—Just after breakfast I picked up my gun, intending to take a stroll in the neighbourhood, when Elongi, the Koolookoo Sheik, taking hold of my arm, led me to Beyrumfi, to whom he communicated some important information, which he in turn communicated to Suleiman in Arabic, and the latter to me thus—
“You not go out this morning, doctor. The Sheik, he say, 300 or 400 bad Basé have come about the mountains by us, and they come bym-bye to kill us all.”
I regret to say that Suleiman’s indignation caused him to indulge in profane language, and he expressed a strong wish to know “What the d—l dese black rascals meant. We find them plenty meat; we give plenty presents to them; we kind to them always,and now dey want to kill us all.” Then, turning abruptly to Beyrumfi and a cluster of Basé, he opened a box full of rifle cartridges, and very angrily said, “Tell dese black d—s, and dey can tell de other Basé, that we will give them some of dese bullets, and that we kill one, two hundred of dem in five minutes.”
Beyrumfi translated this pleasing intelligence to his hearers, who, in due time, I dare say, passed it on. Elongi and his men swore they would stick to us, and I believe they would; but for all that we did not allow any Basé to sleep within our zareeba. We had become rather lax in the matter of zareebas lately, and had not constructed one here; but I need hardly say that on hearing this all in camp were soon set in motion, I remarking what a fine field this would be for Mr. Gladstone to indulge in his tree-felling propensities. He would have found some ebony trees well worthy of his grand old arm.
We had a great deal of very fatiguing work for hours, not only in cutting down and dragging in a sufficient number of trees to form our zareeba, but also in felling young palm trees just round the camp. When all this had been completed the country was set on fire. This quickly spread for miles. In the midst of it all Messrs.James and Phillipps returned from Amadeb much surprised at the activity in camp. We soon gave them all the news, and I cannot say that we were altogether surprised at the information we received in the morning, as we had observed a good many camp fires in the night—all over the hills—where no camp fires should be.
February 20th.—Last night we went to bed, leaving sentries posted round the camp, and well prepared to give a good account of ourselves should the Basé have conceived the idea of attacking us. Perhaps Suleiman’s timely admonition and explanation respecting the penetrating power of our bullets deterred them; at all events we were not attacked, which was satisfactory both to us and the Basé. Had they done so, I computed that with our 22 rifles and guns, and about a dozen revolvers, protected by our strong zareeba, we could have polished off about 100 of these poor savages every five minutes, which would have been no satisfaction to them or us. Looking at the matter again in another light, had they come in sufficient numbers, or laid siege to the camp, we should inevitably have gone to the bad, which would have been a decided inconvenience to us, to say the least of it. Our comrades informed us that when they arrived at Amadeb they heard that our late disaster had beentelegraphed to Kassala, Cairo, and, of course, to England. I then felt glad I had sent a true version of the affair to England, knowing full well that wild reports, of a most unreliable character, were more likely to get abroad than true ones. From my youth up I have remembered the story of the three black crows; also that David once made a very pungent remark, “I have said in my heart all men are liars,” and Carlyle, “There are so many millions of people in the world mostly fools.” However, respecting the latter remark, I should say that—speaking from experience—they are frequently not such fools as they look. The former remark was rather a sweeping one, notquiteadapted to the present day.
To-day we moved on to Onogooloo, about two hours beyond Koolookoo. On passing the latter place Elongi and many of the Basé remained behind, but his father, a quiet, peaceable-looking old fellow, came on with us. This was a short march of about seven hours only.
February 22nd.—This day, after a march of about six hours, we arrived at our old camping placed, called by the festive name of Wo-amma, familiarly known as Whoa Emma. There we found that, within the past 12 hours, quite a drove of elephants had been past, and, of course, we were so unfortunate as to miss them. The Basé are thinningoff, but Elongi has rejoined us to-day. To-day my rifle barrel was so hot at 5 p.m. that no one could grasp it.
February 23rd.—Breakfast at 7 a.m. On the march at 10, and encamp at Gebel-Moussa at 5.40 p.m.En routewe observed a large tract of country on fire, and suddenly came upon a herd of buffalos, which raised a tremendous cloud of dust. Of course we gave chase for a short distance, and of course did not get near them, for they can go at a tremendous pace.
February 24th.—Life is more enjoyable, if we have some difficulties to overcome occasionally, and succeed in doing so; and if we do not, perhaps (speaking as a philosopher) it is better than having a quiet run of prosperity. To-day, like the past few days, has been warm, 95° in the shade. Our journey was short, namely, from 10 a.m. till 1.15 p.m., encamping at Abion.En routewe came across many elephant tracks, a lion and lioness, and after that a lion, lioness, and three cubs, but did not succeed in bagging any of them, but three tetél, a nellut, gazelle, and two bustards were shot. The latter are remarkably fleshy, and very good eating. Seldom a day passed without tetél, nellut, gazelles, maarif, mehedehét or dick-dick being shot. The latter is a beautiful little antelope of the smallestkind. I shot many very small, beautifully plumaged sun-birds to-day—less than half the size of wrens—but only managed to bring two or three of them home, as the shot, small as it was, blew them all to pieces; they ought really to be shot with sand.
It became known in camp that we purpose to-morrow cutting across country for the river Settite, or Tacazze, amongst the Hamran or sword-hunting Arabs,viâSarcella. In consequence of this we were told (just before dinner) that after that meal we should receive a deputation of camel-drivers and horse-boys to enter a protest against this plan. Accordingly, just after dinner they came in a body, saying that nothing would induce them to pass the village of Sarcella, as the Basé there were bad people, and they had just heard that they had sworn to spear every man, woman, or child of the Beni-Amirs that they encountered, on account of the raid which Sheik Ahmed had made on them the other day, just after he left us on our march into their territory. This was the first news we had of his performances there. They said that after making “aman” with the Basé, he speared three or four hundred of the men and took all the women and children as slaves. We reproved them for their cowardice, saying that they were not old women or children, they had their spears and shields, whilst wehad rifles and revolvers, and were strong enough to make a two days’ march through their territory, instead of one day. Our arguments were fruitless; they were quite willing to go with us from Hiekota to the Settite, but they would not, on any account, pass by Sarcella. We, therefore, made a virtue of necessity, and gave up the idea.
February 25th.—To-day we encamped at Toodloak, having made a journey of seven and a half miles. I captured a chameleon on the road. Panthers rather disturbed us last night, and at 4 a.m. a hyæna close to my tent exercised his risible faculties so much that I, not seeing exactly where the laugh came in, got up and saluted him with a shower of stones. About 5 a.m. lions were heard; some of us got up and went in quest of them, came within about 40 yards of one, but he turned off into the jungle when he caught sight of us. However, during our stay in the Basé country 18 buffalos and about 60 antelopes, besides other game, were shot by members of the party. We could easily have secured elephants had we remained long enough and followed them up, and many more buffalos and antelopes had we remained longer in the country, and, of course, giraffes and ostriches. The only rhinoceros, or tracks of one, we did not find until we reached Abyssinia. I have not enlarged much onhunting scenes, fearing that my book would become bulky, and that thegeneralityof my readers would scarcely care to read a repetition of such scenes.
February 26th.—Heat getting great, 94° in shade to-day. Another 7½ hours brought us to Heikota. There we found quite a heap of letters, papers, and periodicals from England.
The contents of the letters were, of course, greedily devoured by us all, and as for the newspapers and periodicals, they furnished enough of news for days. Although many of them were fully two months old, the contents were new to us.
About an hour after our arrival Sheik Ahmed appeared and received us literally with open arms, at the same time kissing us on either cheek. This I could have put up with under different circumstances, but I must say this mode of salutation is not acceptable to me. We found from Herr Schumann that the wildest rumours respecting us had reached them—five had been killed by the Abyssinians, two taken prisoners and put in irons, all our men killed, whilst our camels and everything else had been annexed. The Sheik says that had he known of the attack in time he would willingly have put 1,400 men in the field at once to assist us. He gave us an account of his revenge on the Basé at Sarcella after he left us, but there were some unpleasantlittle details which he prudently omitted, thinking probably that they would shock our English susceptibilities. The particulars Herr Schumann furnished us with.
His tale was this—When the Sheik left us to join his men at Sarcella they had about 500 of the Basé in a cave; the Sheik arrived there quietly, beseiged them for about 10 days, of course cutting them off from water and food.
During this time they ate their goats and sheep raw, quenching their thirst with the blood of these animals. Finally the only course left open to the beseiged was to place themselves at the mercy of their merciless conquerors; so, driven by hunger, thirst, and the smell of their dead, they crawled out, weakened by want, in threes and fours. All the men to the number of about 300, were speared on the spot, whilst about 200 women and children were taken into captivity and sold as slaves, realizing 30, 40, 50, 60, and 70 dollars each. About 30 remained unsold on our arrival; these I saw next day. All the cattle, sheep, goats, dhurra, and everything else the Beni-Amirs could lay their hands on were seized. Now we could understand why the idea of passing through or by Sarcella was so repugnant to our men. I have many patients to attend to, who literally appear to hunger and thirst after my pills and medicine.