In the year 1840 Father Spencer had the happiness of hearing that his great friend, Dr. Wiseman, was consecrated bishop, and was coming from Rome to be coadjutor to Dr. Walsh, and take up his residence in the very College of Oscott where he himself was. Another event occurred, of no less interest. One of his brother priests, Dr. Wareing, was consecrated Bishop of Ariopolis, and Vicar-Apostolic of a new district, the Eastern district in England. Father Spencer preached the consecration sermon; and these two additional bishops in England raised his hopes of the spread of the Catholic faith. It may not be out of place to insert a sentence or two from a letter this venerable bishop, who has retired from his pastoral duties in consequence of ill health for some time past, has written to one of our fathers.
"On many occasions, while at Oscott College, the Superior, and myself among the rest, often thought his zeal too unbounded and rather imprudent, and could not sanction some of his projects and undertakings. Though it cost him much, he always obeyed, and used to pray that Heaven would direct his superiors, whose direction he never refused to obey. I believe he never wished for anything but the will of God, and waited patiently for its accomplishment. I remember also on one occasion hearing him say, 'Howbeautifulit would beto die in a ditch, unseen and unknown.' [Footnote 9] These were his very words; and I was forcibly struck when Iheard of the exact circumstances of his holy death, to see how his wish and prayer were granted to him."
[Footnote 9: This was his continual aspiration. He wished to die like his Lord, deprived of human aid and sympathy.]
He receives news in the beginning of the year 1841 of six nuns having bound themselves by vow to pray for the conversion of England. But a more beautiful and consolatory piece of information still was, that a French missioner had formed an association in Persia of prayers for the same object. He goes to London and preaches in several churches, among others, in Lincoln's-Inn Fields, of course about the conversion of England, for he scarcely ever preached a sermon in which he did not introduce this topic; nay, he never held a half-hour's conversation without introducing it.
It was about this time, too, that he came across Mr. Pugin the elder. His first meeting was rather characteristic of both. Father Spencer had preached a sermon somewhere on the conversion of England, and he gave benediction after it. Pugin came into the sacristy. The famous Goth saw Father Spencer in a Roman cope, and he comes up to him in a kind of nettlesome mood, saying, "What! convert England with such a cope as that?" Father Spencer says in a letter written at this time, "I am not possessed with the enthusiastic zeal for correct forms (Gothic) which some are. It is not my special calling .... Mr. Pugin is the authority to which I would defer in these matters." The only other opinion of Pugin's he records in his letters, is that he said to Father Spencer one time, "It is absurd to expect to get anything for one's works from booksellers or publishers."
Another event that gave him joy, and afterwards a good deal of sorrow, was the conversion of a well-known, clergyman. This remarkable convert lived some time in Oscott after his conversion. Father Spencer took him with him sometimes on his parish duties, and had great hopes of him. These were all disappointed when, in a couple of years, he went back again after being ordained priest and having said mass. Father Ignatius often spoke of him, often visited him, and asked others to pray for him. He used to tell us one curious anecdote about him. Shortly after his apostasy,he was invited to a tea-party where Evangelical ladies assembled to congratulate themselves, and sip their tea with new relish by having it sugared with some telling remarks of the lately-rescued slave from Popery. He was put several questions, such as "What do you think of Transubstantiation?" He answered, "Oh, that's as plain as possible in the Bible," and so forth. They were, of course, egregiously disappointed. Father Ignatius used to lament with peculiar anguish over this sad case. He always hoped for his return to the Catholic faith, and, strange enough, one of the first pieces of news in the way of conversion which we heard after Father Ignatius's death, was his return to the faith he had deserted.
In the middle of the year 1842, he visits Ireland for the first time; he preaches in several places, in Dublin; especially for the Jesuits, in Gardiner Street; the Franciscans, Merchant's Quay. All, of course, about the conversion of England. He says: "My argument was, that the Irish having been specially victims of oppression under England, if I could gain the Irish to pray for England, prayers springing from such charity would be irresistible." He made a kind of a tour through Ireland, and got as far as Tuam. He feared the Archbishop of Tuam, knowing his opposition to England, and his detestation of English rule. For that very reason Father Spencer was the more anxious to convert him, or make him return good for evil. What was his surprise when he found the Archbishop not only kind and Irish in his hospitality, but really favourable to his projects. His grace got Father Spencer to preach, and promised him that he would give the substance of the same sermon to his people in their own sweet ancient tongue on the next Sunday. He was so enchanted at this, that he wrote off almost to every friend he had in the world about it. Though he often felt afterwards the powerful blows Dr. McHale delivered at England's doings, he never could forget his kind reception of himself, and always mentioned his grace's name with gratitude and reverence, only wishing that he would not be so hard on England.
The next event he writes about was the arrival in Englandof Father Dominic of the Mother of God (Passionist), and his staying at Oscott for some time in order to learn English and wait for an opening in Aston to begin the first retreat of the English province. Before we quote his account of Father Dominic, it may be well to give a rather characteristic remark of his which occurs in the letter to Mrs. Canning, who was a great promoter, in the letter-writing way, of Father Dominic's coming. He says, "Your accounts of yourself are always interesting, as they must be in all cases where a person knows how to delineate accurately his own interior; for, in seeing the picture of another well drawn, we always may discern little touches of our own portraiture which had before perhaps escaped us, and that gives all the pleasure of sympathy, which is one of the realest pleasures."
Further on in the same letter he writes:—
"Padre Domenico has had his cross to bear with us, all this time; it is not like what usually makes crosses for people. He mourns over having plenty to eat, having windows which keep the weather out, having chairs to siton, and tables to sit at, and longs to be in his house, which I suppose will not have much of all this to trouble him. I have to try to console him now and then, which I do by telling him that I never hear of anything brought about in our ecclesiastical arrangements without long delay, and yet all comes right at last, with patience. I tell him also that he must have known enough of the deliberativeness with which things of the kind are settled by the known slowness of all things at Rome. However, why should you have to bear this burden with us? You will, I hope, be consoled before long by hearing that they are settled, and going on, and have first a chair, then a table, then a kettle, and likely to have a smoke-jack, toasting-fork, and such like in due course, and, what will be not less interesting in its way, having good novices, and plenty of converts."
The next thing he speaks about is not one event, but a series, though all only items in a great result for which he continually prayed and laboured—the conversions, which multiplied every day. In 1843 he says that converts arereceived in Birmingham at the rate of one a day, and many more elsewhere. He also mentions with great satisfaction that within the last year, 1842, three Anglican clergymen, four Oxford students, two countesses, and two earls' daughters had become converts. Although Father Spencer mentions these particularly, it is not to undervalue conversions from an humbler grade of life he does it. The soul of the beggar is as precious in the eyes of God,apud quern non est acceptatio personarum, as the soul of the king. Father Spencer did not undervalue the conversions of the middle and lower classes on the contrary, he worked hard to get as many as possible from them. He had always notions of a great move towards Catholicity, and he thought that if the higher ranks took the lead in this, the others would follow.
In 1844, he mentions his going to Nottingham with a large party, among whom is Mr. Ward, "one of the most advanced Oxford clergy. Oh! that he would come a little further, but at present he seems to have no thoughts of it. God knows whether he may not soon get a little help onwards. Make a good prayer for this." Mr. Ward did get certainly onwards. Here and there we find sighs escape him about his beloved people of Northampton and Brington. He did assuredly love his native place intensely, and it must have been a trial to his feelings that he could do nothing externally towards alleviating its spiritual destitution.
In 1844 he became so nervous and weak that he was forbidden exertion of any kind; his ailment is manifest in his tremulous handwriting. On medical advice, he takes a tour on the Continent with Mr. and Mrs. Phillipps and their children. His account of this tour is preserved in a Journal, and we think it well to give it entire, without any compression.
OnWednesday, July 3rd, 1844,I set off from Grace Dieu Manor for a tour on the Continent with my dear friend, Ambrose Phillipps, his wife, his two eldest boys, Ambrose and Edward, and John Squires, his servant. He took his carriage, in which he and his family sat on the railway from Loughborough to London, while I went in a second-class carriage. We arrived at the Burlington Hotel, and dined about 7 o'clock. Afterwards we went out different ways. I called at Dr. Griffiths, but he was not at home. I had tea with Dr. Maguire, whom I found at home; we had an hour's talk, about the Oxford men principally. Got home about 10.
Thursday, July 4.—Went with the Phillippses to Father Lythgoe's, in Bolton Street, where I said mass, and breakfasted at 10. I went to see Dr. Chambers, in Brook Street, being ordered by Dr. Wiseman to consult him as to the propriety of taking a long tour, as is proposed by Phillipps. Dr. Chambers recognized me at once, as I used in 1824 or 1825 to follow his visits to the patients in St. George's Hospital, with a view to learn medicine. He judged it quite necessary that I should have at least three months' absence from work, and approved of my travelling withmoderate exertion. So I am fixed at last to set off. God knows how I shall go through. The present plan is to go through Belgium, to Munich, the Tyrol, Venice, Milan, Turin, Lyons, Paris, and home; and my purpose is to get prayers for England's conversion, and to see men rather than places and things. After Dr. Chambers, I went to the Bank, to get my letter of credit, then to Buckingham Palace, to see my sister. After I had waited a half-hour she returned from her drive, and took me to her nursery apartments at the top of the house. I had my first glance at Prince Albert, going out to ride with Colonel Bouverie. From Sarah, I went to Lyttelton's house, 39, Grosvenor Place, where I found Caroline Lyttelton was expected home in an hour, and so I went on to call on Sisk, who was out, and I came back and saw Lyttelton, with whom I went in his carriage towards the House of Lords, and was set down in St. James's Street. On the table in Grosvenor Place I saw what I was 21 years ago, in a miniature painted by Ross—a blooming rosy youth. I did not believe it till Caroline told me. I came to dine with Sarah at 8, and staid till 10. Our conversation was most interesting, about the Queen and the children, and the great people from abroad, &c., whom she saw; above all, the Czar and the Duke of Wellington. She set me down at our hotel at 10½, after calling at Neville Grenville's, where I saw Lady Charlotte and a large family.
Friday, July 5th.—Mass and breakfast as yesterday. About 11 started for Dover, in the same order as from Loughborough; arrived at 5. I went to call on Mr. Savage, the priest, my old companion at Rome. He does not seem a movement man. He came to tea with us.
Saturday, July 6th.—As the packet was to start at 7, I missed saying mass. As it happened, we had to wait on board till 9 for the mail. We had intended to cross to Ostend, but Phillipps, getting afraid of the long crossing for sickness, so we all agreed to prefer the shorter-by-half passage to Calais. We had a good passage, but we all were miserable; the two boys were very sick. However, as the French boatmen assured us, the tread of the dry land ofFrance worked wonders to cure us all. We went to Dessin's Hotel. I was full well reminded of September, 1819, my first landing in France, and of divers other epochs, Sept. 1820, Nov. 1820, and Feb. 1830. Before dinner we went to the church to give thanks, and commend our future to God. I askedle Suisse de l'Eglise(the verger) to pray for England. Nothing else done at Calais. We started in the afternoon for S. Omer, which we reached late. The country we passed was very fertile; for the first time I have seen cultivation which struck me as superior to English; the state of the people is manifestly more happy and prosperous. After tea I went to the Grand Vicaire, M. Dumez, to ask leave for mass, &c. I had forgotten to get credentials from Dr. Wiseman, and so he hesitated, but gave thecelebret. I went on, though tired, to M. Durier, Curé de Notre Dame, who received me most cordially, and on my stating my errand, pressed me to preach at the high mass on the morrow. I hesitated, but he came with me to our hotel, and Phillipps joined in pressing it, and so I wrote a quarter of an hour's worth before going to bed, hoping I was not out of rule, but doubting.
Sunday, July 7.—Said mass at Notre Dame, a fine Gothic church; went home to breakfast, and back to high mass at 9½. After the Gospel, M. Durier first read theannonces, the Epistle, and the Gospel, and introduced my object to the people. Then I went into the pulpit, and made my address without any difficulty. He then rose opposite to me, and pledged himself and his flock to pray for England. After mass, I went a round of the convents of the town with an old man sent from one of them with me. The convents which promised their prayers were the following:
Les Ursulines, 37 nuns; 300 scholars.Les Soeurs Hospitalières de S. Louis.L'Hospice de S. Jean, served by nuns.L'Hôpital Général des enfants trouvés, &c.Les Religieuses de la Sainte famille.Le Couvent du Saint Sacrement,where are only 3 nuns, the Superioress an Englishwoman, who observed that in her profession, when prostrate—a time when it is said the chosen prayer is sure to be granted—the first thing she asked was England's conversion.Les Frères des Écoles Chrétiennes.The Superior promised to recommend the prayers to his brethren of 30 houses in this district, who meet in August for a retreat.
"We proceeded at 3 to Lille, stopping at the exit from St. Omer to see the ruined Abbaye de St. Bertin. We stopped at Cussel, a place on the top of a mountain commanding a grand prospect over a vast plain richly wooded and cultivated. The maître d'hôtel wanted us sadly to stay, but we went on, after a walk to the top of the mount, and to the church. We came late to Lille, and not finding room at l'Hôtel de l'Europe, we put up at l'Hôtel de Gand, not a very nice one, in the Grande Place.
Monday, July 8.—I first went to the Church of St. Catherine, to see Abbe Bernard, my friend, introduced by Mrs. Canning. He was gone, yesterday, to Paris. I then went to Rue Royale, No. 61, memorable for ever as the direction to which my letters from Brington to Miss Dolling were addressed. M. Friot Chombard, who lives there, was also absent from Lille. I then went to the Church of St. Étienne, where the Grand Doyen lived; and, having seen him, I said mass. I then called on him in his house, and obtained his promise to advocate the cause of England. After breakfast, I went to the Church of St. Maurice, which is called the Cathedral. It is the first I have seen with four aisles. I saw nothing more in Lille; we left it about 12, and reached Tournay about 2. I went at once to the Évéché, where I found the Bishop's Secretary, who took me to a great convent of nuns, which the Bishop has founded, and is building this house for. It is to contain sixty nuns, and a great number ofpensionnaires. I was presented to his lordship in the garden, and obtained a full promise of his patronage of the cause of England. I came back to dine at the Hotel (du Singe d'Or); to my surprise and pleasure, Talbot came in with Phillipps, who had met him in the Cathedral. After dinner, he and I took acarriage and went to see the Passionists au Château d'Ere, about three miles off. Le Père Pierre, Superior of the house, received us with all kindness. He has three companions priests, and three brothers. They were building a church of good size, and seem to prosper; but he complains that no postulants come; they have received not one cleric yet. He thinks they fear the bare feet. He came back with us to Tournay, to see Phillipps. Soon after, we started on our way to Brussels; still by post horses, as all the way from Calais. We stopped at Alte to sleep. The hotel was one of the most agreeable and cheapest, though small.
Tuesday, July 9.—There are two churches at Alte. I went to St. Julien's, and said mass. Afterwards I introduced Phillipps and Madame to the Doyen, M. Picquart, who was most pleasing and full of knowledge, and promised all for England. We here had a contest with John, which threatened his being sent home, but he came round before the day was out. We started at 10 for Brussels. The country not equal to France. We came to the Hôtel de Belle Vue, in the Place Royale. Having engaged a suite of rooms, we sat down at once at thetable d'hôte. After it, I went to seek for the Abbé Donnet, to whom I had a note from Seager. He was out. I then went to Ste. Gudule, the cathedral, and saw the Vicaire, a Dutch priest, with whom I settled to say mass to-morrow. Then I took avigilante(i.e. a cab) to the College de St. Michel, of the Jesuits, where I saw the Second Superior. Then to the Redemptorists, where the Superior took up the cause warmly. Home to tea.
Wednesday, July 10.—Went at 7 to Abbé Donnet; then to mass at Ste. Gudule. At 9, Abbé (Chanoine) Donnet called, and, after an hour's talk about Oxford, took us to Monsignor Pacci, the Pope's Nuncio, Archbishop of Damietta. He is a most holy-looking man; conversed with us most kindly; knew much about the Oxford people; promised his help. I then let the Phillippses go their way, intending to make a day of canvassing convents. But M. Donnet took me only to three, and then had to go his way at 12. The three were:—
Soeurs de Notre Dame, Rue de l'Étoile, 14 nuns.Pauvres Claires, Rue de Manige, Maison Mère a Bruges, 13 nuns.Couvent de Bellaymont. Chanoinesses Régulières de St. Augustin. Unique Maison.
After this, I went to Ste. Gudule, and met Phillipps, with whom I went to the Jardin Botanique, and to the hospital for old men. It is a grand establishment, by private charity. It contains 700 old men, of whom 100 pay for themselves; the rest are kept free, and with wonderful regard to their comforts. I called on a curé close by, thinking to get the prayers of thesevielliards; but he took me for a begging priest, and turned me out of doors.Deo gratias. Thence to the Musée, a collection of pictures, which hardly paid the trouble of looking at. After dinner at thetable d'hôte, we took a carriage to go to Jette St. Pierre, to meet the Cardinal Archbishop of Malines, at the Convent of the Sacré Coeur there. On the way we saw an interesting church; outside was a tomb of Madame Malibren. At Jette, Madame de Wall, my friend of 1832 at Bordeaux, introduced us to the Cardinal. This was a consolation indeed. He undertook to recommend England to all the Bishops of Belgium, invited me to their meeting on the 29th July, and promised that all their priests and convents should engage in the cause. This is a noble convent. Madame de Wall said they prayed for England every half-hour in the day.
Thursday, July 11.—Said mass at St. Jacques, in the Place Royale. Went to Malines by thechemin du fer, Phillipps in the carriage on a truck, I in achar-à-banc. Arrived at l'Hôtel de la Grue just in time for thetable d'hôte, on which I only remark the immense length of time taken to dine. After it, we went to the Petit Séminaire, where we were warmly greeted by the Abbé Bonquéan, our friend of Oscott and Grace Dieu. He took us about to a few places; and at 5 to the Salut, at the Cathedral; after which he introduced Miss Young, the convert, sister to Isabella. She went with us to Hanicq's, the printer's, and to a fine old church, &c. I visited no convents, reserving this for my return. Opposite our hotel, the grandTheatre des Lapons forced itself to be noticed till late at night.
Friday, July 12.—After mass and breakfast, we went to visit the Cardinal Archbishop, who graciously gave me a paper of testimonial, which will, I hope, save some trouble. His countenance and manner are highly prepossessing. At 12 we started for Antwerp, by railway, leaving the carriage at the station at Malines. We arrived at the Hôtel St. Antoine, just in time for thetable d'hôteat 2. There I met Mr. Blore, with his daughter, now grown a fine young woman. After dinner, to the Cathedral. I need not speak of the glorious tower, 466 feet high. What attracted our attention most was the wonderfully beautiful restoration of the stalls in oak carved work; 40,000 francs have been spent in this already, and not half the stalls are finished, and this actually in process of work is more pleasing to see than the most beautiful morsels of ancient work, for the promise it gives of better days. The pulpit is a mass of exquisite carving, in a style seemingly favourite in this part of Belgium. The most beautiful we saw was at Brussels, Ste. Gudule, where, below the preacher, are seen Adam and Eve banished from Paradise; and above, the head of the serpent, who winds round the pulpit, crushed by Mary. The same style of carving is around the pulpit at Marines, Louvain, &c., but is seen no more at Liége. After seeing the cathedral, we went to the Musée, containing first-rate specimens of Rubens, citizen of Antwerp; as also of Van Dyke and Quintin Matsys, of whom there is an excellent picture of the Descent from the Cross. Finding myself near the College of the Jesuits, I went in and saw the Rector, who took up our cause zealously. He walked home with me to see Phillipps, and they soon got intimate.
Saturday, July 13.—After mass in the cathedral, we went, by last night's appointment, to visit the Superior of the Jesuits, who showed us his house. Then, Phillipps going to see some churches, &c., I went with a lay brother, given me for guide by the Superior, to visit convents.
We called at the following:—
Coletines, près la Porte Rouge, 28 nunsDames de l'Instruction Chrétienne, 17 nunsSoeurs de Notre Dame, 20 nunsSoeurs Grises, 34 nunsSoeurs Noires, 49 nunsApostolines, in two houses, 67 nunsSoeurs de Charité, 12 nunsBéguinage (that is, a collection of houses, in which Sisters live under a Superioress, not bound by vows for life) 54 nuns
Except the latter, where I was referred to the Director, who was not so attentive, all received the proposal warmly. The brother was my interpreter with many, who did not know French. At 1 we got home, and I took the Phillippses to the curé of the cathedral, who introduced to us M. Durlet, the young architect, who, with a partner at Louvain, is doing the beautiful work in the choir. We went into the cathedral again, and I was prevented going to two remaining convents, but the curé promised to do it for me. M. Durlet came to dine with us at thetable d'hôte. I just called at l'Hôtel du Park, to see Miss Dalton, who is ill there. Mr. Turpin and Mr. Crowe, two Lancashire priests, are with her. The former accosted me in the cathedral. We set off then to Malines by the railway; there met Abbé Bonquéan; had tea, and went on to Louvain. We got in late, in heavy rain; Phillipps had to walk from the railway a mile in the rain. I went first to the Hôtel de Suide, where I found Dr. Ullathorne and Mr. Hansom, his architect.
7th Sunday af. Pent. July 14.—I had my palpitation worse than ever to-day. I wish to attribute it to my two days' abstinence, and not to my walking after convents. It went off after breakfast. I said mass at the Cathedral St. Pierre. High mass at 10. It was one of extreme opposition to plain chant, with drums and orchestra. In this church remember the beautiful tabernacle, a stone pinnacle, on the Gospel side of the altar. There was noprône, and a second high mass immediately after. The Hôtel de Ville is a famous piece of Gothic, not so admirable to my view asthat at Brussels, which is much larger, not so highly wrought, and has a beautiful spire. After dinner, at 1, with Dr. Ullathorne, and at thetable-d'hôte, we went to see M. and Madame de Coux. We got into interesting talk with him on matters religions, ecclesiastical, and political. He is a professor of political economy, a Frenchman, brought up in England under old Dr. Woods. We went on till after 5, and so missed thesalut, sermon, and procession at the church. He took us to the University, where we saw Abbé Malou, who claimed me as an old acquaintance, one of the three at the Collegio Nobile whom I knew at Rome. He is Professor of Dogmatic Theology, most learned, high bred, and amiable. M. Bonquéan came kindly to meet us from Malines, and was with us till 6. After having spent nearly an hour with M. Malou, who showed us the library (10,000 vols.) of which he is keeper, we went to tea with M. de Coux, and came home at 9½.
Monday, July 15. St. Swithin.—Mass at St. Pierre, for the Feastde Divisione Apostolorum. After breakfast I went again to M. de Coux, who took me to see a M. Mühler, whom he recommended as tutor to John Beaumont. At 12, railway to Liege. Dined at 5, at l'Hôtel de France. At 6,salutat St. Denys. Before dinner I went to the Redemptorists, but found Père Van Held and Deschamps out of town. The Bishop also away. We went at 7 a walk to a bookseller's, from which I went in quest of the Grand Vicaire. I met an old priest in the street, Abbé Marsomme, who took me to M. Jacquenot, the second Grand Vicaire, and then walked home and took tea with us. These two promised to spread prayer for England through Liege. I wrote to Mrs. Beaumont before bed.
Tuesday, July 16.—Our Lady of Mount Carmel.—Mass at St. Denys, where is a beautiful piece of old oak carving. Phillippses received communion. After breakfast, at 9, we went to high mass at the cathedral. It was solemn plain chant. The church has many stained-glass windows, like those of Ste. Gudule, Brussels, of 1550, much gone off from the older time. The pulpit is new carved oak, with a beautiful tower with pinnacles above, a great improvement onthe carved pulpit above named, though not so costly perhaps. The church is much debased, as usual, in other parts. We met Chanoine Erroye, who took us to the other great church, St. Jacques, which rivals or surpasses the cathedral. The ceiling coloured, though like the cathedral. They are doing a great deal to restore this church. The Doyen was there overlooking the work. The stained glass was much better than at Brussels, but not the best (date 1527); not so far down hill. The Chanoine then took us to the Abbé Marsomme, who is Director of an hospice with 19 nuns, taking care of 180 old women, beautifully kept. The Quarant' Ore was being celebrated in this church. It is kept up in Liége all the year round, and comes four times to each church. We then went with the Chanoine Erroye to the Grand Séminaire. The library is beautiful. There are here 120 students; and at the Petit Séminaire, 360. They go through nine courses at the Petit, and three at the Grand, so that 40 are sent on the mission every year, and 40 more come on below. Came home totable d'hôteat 1. After it we made an attempt to go to Angleur, 3 miles off, where Mrs. Ambrose's father, Hon. Thomas Clifford, who died at Liége in 1817, is buried. We were stopped by mud and rain, and came back, seeing the church of Ste. Croix, which was not very remarkable (Mem. a dog carrying the keys as porter), and St. Martin, a fine church of second rate, but famous as the place where, at one of the side altars, the feast of Corpus Christi was celebrated for the first time, owing to the inspirations received by a nun called Soeur Julienne. The 6th Centenary will be held in 1846. We met a young, amiable-looking priest in the church. He promised to think of England at the altar, in the special mass of the Blessed Sacrament, which is celebrated at it every Thursday, whatever feast may interpose. It was heavy rain, and we came home tosalutat St. Denys, and thence to the hotel. I wrote up a good deal of this journal.
Wednesday, July 17. St. Osmond.—We took a stouter equipage, and got to Angleur early. I said mass, and the Phillippses communicated over the place of her father's repose. The boys served the mass. The Curé, Matthias Jn. Convardy, who remembered Mr. Clifford while himself quiteyoung, gave us breakfast after, very kindly. All these priests were warm for England. We returned to Liége, and I went to the banker; then home to dinner at 1. Then went off by railway to Aix-la-Chapelle. It passes through beautiful romantic scenery. There is no railway with so many tunnels in the distance. I got into conversation with a party of Oxonians going to spend the long vacation at Baden. One of them, Mr. G. F. Brown, of Trinity, was full of information, and quite moving on, a great friend of W. Palmer, of Magdalen. He promised to visit Oscott. We came to the Hôtel Nuelleus, a very grand one. I went to the Chief Canon, the Grand Vicaire being gone to Cologne, and got leave for mass to-morrow. We are now in Prussia, and all on a sudden all German—hardly a word of French spoken. We had tea, and I finished my Journal up, in my room, after saying matins.
Thursday, July 18.—I went to the cathedral, and after mass, saw the wonderful relics which are preserved in the sacristy of the cathedral. This cathedral consists of a round Byzantine building, which was built by Charlemagne as the chapel to his palace; and a high Gothic choir, which was added to it after the palace had been burnt down. A young priest showed the relics; he is always in waiting for the purpose, except for the time of high mass and office. The great relics—viz., the dress of the Blessed Virgin, the clothes which our Lord had on Him on the cross, and the cloth into which John Baptist's head fell—are kept in a magnificent chest, which is shown, but is only opened every seven years, and when a crowned head comes. The next time is July 10, 1846. Above this chest is one containing the bones of Charlemagne, whose skull and spine-bone, and even hunting-horn, are shown in separate reliquaries. His crown and sword are at Vienna. Here is shown also the girdle of our Lord, of leather, with Constantine's seal upon it; the rope with which he was tied to the pillar; the girdle of Our Lady; and many other glorious relics less important. The interior of the doors enfolding these treasures is lined most beautifully with paintings of Albert Durer, and many admirable Byzantine paintings.These relics were principally given to Charlemagne by the Caliph, Haroun Alraschid. The cases were gifts of several emperors, &c., as Lothaire, Charles V., Philip II. They were preserved in the French Revolution by a priest, who conveyed them to Paderborn and hid them. After breakfast I returned to the cathedral with Phillipps for high mass, which was in solemn plain chant, and then saw the relics again at 11½, after going to the Palais de Justice. At 12 I got a little dinner, and went by the railway to Grand, parting from the Phillippses, please God, for a fortnight only. I went to bed at the Hôtel de Flandre, leaving no luggage—all left at Malines.
Friday, July 19.—Went to the cathedral to say mass. My morning was taken up with going to the railway about my poor luggage, which at last I saw, and visiting the Provincial of the Jesuits, to see about my retreat. I dined at the hotel. The cathedral is a most beautiful specimen of the Greek fittings in a Gothic church. I did not stop to have the finest pictures uncovered, for I had my business to see after. Two other beautiful churches, St. Nicholas and St. Michael. No signs here of Gothic restorations. At 3 I went with the Provincial to Franchismes, where they have bought an ancient Prémontré Abbey, which does not preserve much of the abbey still, except some corridors, once, as it seems, cloisters. It is, however, a beautiful establishment for its end. I saw and spoke to two English and one Irish novice, of course about England. I went back to Gand; and there Père Coultins, by desire of the Provincial, went with me to the Recollets, a reform of the Franciscans; their chief house is at St. Froud. Then to the Pauvres Claires; and then to one of the two Béguinages. Here are establishments, in one of which 800, and in the other 300,quasinuns live in a cluster of separate houses.
Their origin is immemorial. They are bound by vows of obedience and chastity, not poverty, for the time that they remain. Hardly ever does one return to the world. The Père Coultins promised to visit for me the other convents of the town. This is what I could do for Ghent. At 6, I started by railway to Louvain, where I was received as anold acquaintance at the Hôtel de Suide. The Provincial sends me here for my retreat. In the train to Malines, I had Mr. Maude and Mr. Perry. Finished Journal, and to bed at near 12.
Saturday, July 20.—After mass at the cathedral, and breakfast, I went to the Seminary of the Jesuits, with a letter from the Provincial to Père Rosa, the rector. He introduced me to Père Vanderghote, who is to direct my retreat, and left me with him. We went to walk about the town, called on M. Malou, who undertook to translate a prayer from Dr. Wiseman's prayers for England, into French. I called on Mr. De Coux, and at I dined with these two fathers, and we went into the garden. I then wrote to Dr. Wiseman, Phillipps, and M. Bonquéan, and at ¼ to 5 began my retreat for eight days please God, till the end of which my present journal intermits.Orate pro me omnes qui diligitis Deum.
Monday, July 29.—I rose this morning out of my retreat, hoping that by the help of Almighty God I may preserve some of its fruit durably. I said mass once more at 7½ in the private chapel, then after a conversation with my kind Father Vanderghote, I went to the College du Saint Esprit, where I saw M. Malou, and then went into the hall, where theses were defended by a young priest called Bacten, and then degrees conferred, and a discourse in Latin pronounced by Abbé Malou. The Nuncio and the Bishop of Amiens were there, with many others. At 2 I dined with M. Malou. The chief guests were the Grand Vicaire de Bruges, a monseigneur, and Abbé Marais, of the Sorbonne; much conversation was on England, and some good interest excited. I went again to see Père Rosa, and Vanderghote, and at 6½ was on the railway to Malines with a multitude of priests. I went to the Petit Séminaire, and supped, and M. Bonquéan walked with me to the Grue.
Tuesday, July 30.—Said mass at the cathedral, and then at 8 went to the Archbishop's palace, where, with much trouble, I got at the Chanoine's private secretary, who introduced me to the Cardinal and his five suffragan BelgianBishops of Bruges, Tournay, Gand, Namur, and Liege, sitting after breakfast. I sat down, and in a short conversation a great deal seemed to be done for the cause. I was desired to draw up documents with M. Bonquéan to-day, and to dine with the prelates at 1 to-morrow, to hear their conclusion.Laus Deo semper. At 10½ I went to M. Bonquéan, where I found two young Oxford men, whom I afterwards found were Christie of Oriel and his brother. They went with M. Bonquéan and me on all our rounds to the convents of the town to-day. At 12 I dined at the Petit Séminaire, then, with M. Bonquéan and M. Vandervelde, who was very zealous for England, I began to prepare for to-morrow; at 4½ the Christies came, and we walked till 7. The convents which we went to, and which all promised, and (except one which was cold) all with great warmth, were:—
Les Soeurs Hospitalières de Ste. Elisabeth, 21 nuns.Les Marie Colae 17 nuns.Soeurs de Charité, not St. Vincent's, but a house under the direction of the Grand Séminaire, 23 nuns.Soeurs de Notre Dame, Abbé Bonquéan is Director here; we saw an interesting English novice, and stayed some time, 30 nuns.Les Soeurs Apostolines, 24 nuns.Les Pauvres Claires, not so zealous, 25 nuns.
Lastly, we visited a new house and institute called Frères de la Miséricorde, lately founded by a canon of the cathedral, by name Scheppers. There are now 27 brothers, of whom 25 are on their mission, which is to enter, several together, the prisons of the country, and devote themselves to the spiritual and bodily care and cure of the prisoners. The Government favours them remarkably; it seems a most notable institution, and the founder was a most interesting man. He promised warmly to engage all his brethren. At 7½ I went to the station, and met Elwes, on his way home from Kissengen. I brought him up, and we had supper at the Grue. I went to bed after a good bit of work to be got up, office, Journal, account, &c.
Wednesday, July 31. St. Ignatius.—Elwes and I said mass at the cathedral. From 10 till near 1 he and I were both at work copying an address for the Bishops, of which I thought to give each a copy. At one I went to dine at the Cardinal's. There were there six Bishops and the Nuncio, and many of the chief clergy. I sat next to Mgr. de Namur; afterwards I took an hour's walk in the garden, and at 4 attended the meeting of the Bishops, who came to a happy resolution of granting an indulgence of 40 days for every mass, every communion, even hearing mass, or saying it with a memento for England, and reciting a prayer which they determined on. The Cardinal was full of noble kindness. This grant was more than I had proposed in my paper, and so my morning's work and Elwes's was useless in a very agreeable way. I went to the Grue and found M. Bonquéan and the Christies with Elwes. In packing up I found my passport was lost, and went off, therefore, uncertain whether I could pass the frontier without writing for one to Brussels. The Christies travelled with me. I had some interesting conversation with each about their position in the Church of England. They took it with great gentleness, and answered well. They seem not to have thought of coming over, and yet to be in good disposition to do what they shall see right. We met very agreeably with the very priest of whom we have heard so much, who learnt English to instruct a lady in his parish near Bruges, whose daughter was already a convert, and writes letters to Dr. Wiseman for publication in England (Miss Heron). We became great friends, and he, with another young priest, his neighbour, who are taking a little tour together, came with us to the Aigle Noir, nearer the Redemptorists than l'Hôtel de France. We were very nearly upset in the omnibus, as we came up from the station; it was overloaded with luggage, and struck the wheels on the right in the sand, having got off the paving. We got out, unhurt, into another omnibus passing by; supper, and to bed.
Thursday, August 1.—Said mass at the Redemptorists. Le Père Van Held invited us all to breakfast, i.e., the Christiesand the priests, our new friends. I met there the Bishop's secretary, who gave me a letter to the Governor of Liege, Baron Van der Stein, who, happily, was come this morning into town, and gave me my passport. I then went on with myvigilanteto see the Miss Nicholls, who have been living two years at the Benedictine convent, Quai d'Avroy. I met them last at Boulogne, in 1838. They promised to be busy in getting prayers. I then visited the Jesuits' College, and Abbé Marsomme. Dined at 1 at thetable d'hôtewith the Christies, whom Père Van Held had sent about sight-seeing with one of his priests. At 2.45 we took the convoy to Cologne, which we reached duly at 9¼, and went to the Hôtel du Douane, Gasthof zum Kölner Dom, close to the cathedral; we took a walk round the cathedral by moonlight after supper.
Friday, August 2.—I went to say mass in the cathedral, which we then looked round. It gives a melancholy spectacle of what miserable times have been gone through while it remained thus unfinished so long; but it is a consolation to see the glorious restoration now going on. The most beautiful points of the decoration of the choir are the fresco paintings above the pillars, and the rich gilded diapering on the lower part of them round the choir, in which one column alone is finished; and beautiful figures under canopies on each column, half-way to the top. The building is surrounded with great masses of stones for the completing of it. It is expected that it will be finished, fit for consecration, in four years, but not quite complete till twenty years hence, please God, if we have peace. After breakfast we went to call on Professor Michel, at the Seminary. He could not come with us. We saw the Jesuits' church, and returned to assist at part of a requiem mass at the cathedral, the anniversary of the Archbishop Ferdinand. I spoke to the Vicar-General about England, then went home, wrote to M. Malou, dined alone; and at 1 set off by a steamboat on the Rhine for Koenigswinter, parting from the Christies in the boat. I had nothing very remarkable in the passage; reached Koenigswinter at 5. I took up my lodgings at the Hôtel de Berlin, where the Phillippses had been for twelve days.They came in from a ride in the mountains about 6, and we went to tea with Count and Countess Kurtzrock. He is Mrs. Ambrose's second cousin. Their daughter Marie and her governess gave us music.
Saturday, August 3.—Said mass at the little church at Sta. Maria. The altar with altar-cloth only over the altar stone. The rest of the altar was brown wood. We breakfasted with Mrs. P.'s aunt, La Baronne de Veich, whom they are visiting. She lives in a small house with two nieces, Antoinette and Fanny Lutzou. At 10 we went across the Rhine to Gothsburg, a watering-place, where Mrs. Amherst and daughter have been staying; but they are gone to Italy. We walked up to a castle battered into ruin in the Thirty Years' war, overhanging the town. The little church half-way up the hill is a bad specimen of taste enough inside. We came back to dinner at the Baroness's at 2. I went home for two hours, then walked with Phillipps and Tony, as they call Antoinette, to see a house which she is undertaking to form into an asylum for old poor women; back to tea, and home to the hotel at 9.
Sunday, August 4. 10th after Pentecost, here marked 9th.—I heard mass at 7 with the famous Kirchen Gesang, of whom I heard from Dr. Sweers while translating Overbury's Life. All the people sang German hymns through the whole mass with wonderful unison. After it I said mass. At 10 was the high mass, i.e., another mass with Kirchen Gesang, rather more solemn; and a sermon. I came home then and wrote a letter to the Vicar-General at Cologne. I received from M. Bonquéan my book of papers pro Anglia, which I had left at Malines. At 1, dinner. Professor Schutz, of the University of Bonn, came to dine. We saw him off at 3, and then found that some one must go to Bonn to get money from the bank; so I took the charge, that I might see Bonn. I crossed the Rhine in a boat, and met an omnibus which took me on the road I travelled in 1820. The cathedral at Bonn, called the Münster, is of a style older than Gothic, but not quite Byzantine, something like our Saxon churches. The choir is elevated high above the nave, which sinks below the level outside, or the outsidemust have risen. Some arches are Gothic. The University is a large building, what would be called Grecian. In front of it is a handsome promenade or park. At 7½ I called a second time at Professor Schutz's house, and found him with M. Marais, of the Sorbonne. He gave me coffee, &c. His rooms are full of curiosities from Palestine and Egypt. In 1819, 1820, and 1821, he was travelling, commissioned by Government, a literary journey through Egypt, Abyssinia, &c. He is Professor of Scripture, a great Orientalist, a friend of Dr. Wiseman's. We spoke about Humanarianism and Overbury, and the Paris University, &c. I went out and met my omnibus at a ¼ to 9, crossed the Rhine, and got home at 10.
Monday, August 5. Sta. Maria ad Nives.—Mass at 7½; at 9 we went to a high mass de requiem. They always sing one for every person who dies; and when the family can afford it, bread is given to the poor, as was done to-day. I stayed at home nearly, till one, then dinner at la Baronne's. Mr. Ambrose was not there, having had a fall yesterday, and taking rest for precaution. After dinner, looked over the Life of Napoleon in German; came home till I went to tea. The Count and Countess Kurtzrock and daughters came. The Countess promised to be an associate for England, and to spread it at Hamburg, where they live.
Friday, August 6th.—Mass at 6. I started at 7.30 by a steamer for Mayence. We passed Coblentz (lat.confluentia), at the confluence of the Moselle and the Rhine, at 1, and then dined (table d'hôte) on deck. We made agreeable acquaintance with two priests, M. Bandry, Chanoine of Cologne, and M. Steigmeier, a P.P. in the Black Forest. The first went off at Coblentz, the second spoke only Latin; both were highly interested for England. I was busy a good deal with reading German, with a dictionary. The weather was beautiful till about 6, when suddenly a terrible squall of wind, and thunder and lightning came on. The steamer was driven aground on a sand-bank, and seemed likely to capsize with the wind and waves. Terrible fright and crying among ladies and children. We seemed to think little of the rain and lightning which gleamed on every sideof us. It was very frightful; at least, it appeared so, and I saw what a warning was given here to be ready at a moment. No great preparation, I found, would be likely to be made in a time like that. It brought on me a palpitation which lasted till morning. We got off after ten minutes, as the storm blew over, and got to the Hôtel du Rhine at Mayence (Mainz) about 9. My greatest alarm since Messina.
Wednesday, Aug. 7. San. Gaetano. Remembered Affi, 1820.—Said mass at the cathedral. This is a venerable old church, St. Boniface's see. It is something like our Norman style of architecture; at the west end is a remarkable baptistery, with a high vaulted roof now opening to the church. There are many fine monuments, and many more of the worst style; fauns and dragons supporting archbishops, &c. They showed us a holy-water stoup, where Gustavus Adolphus, having ridden into the church, made his horse drink! Near the church is a statue of Guttenburg, the first printer, claimed as a citizen of Mainz; bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen. We had not time to see more. I was not disposed, with my palpitation just subsiding, to go after the Archbishop or others. We started past for Manheim; on the way we looked at the torn-down cathedral of Worms, in a later style than Mayence, and very venerable. This place was famous in the contests between Charles V. and Luther. We dined at Manheim, then took the railway to Heidelberg, where we put up at the Badische Hof. We saw nothing at Manheim but the appearance of the town, which is very handsome. A French gentleman whom I met in the town, Girardon, of Lyons, said the ducal palace was very grand.
Thursday, Aug. 8.—I went out at 9½, having had rather a bad night, and said mass at the Jesuits' old church, which is now the only exclusively Catholic church in Heidelberg. The curé lives in an old college; the church was dreary and empty, and things seem to be at a low point. We went after breakfast in a carriage to the ruins of the castle, which are fine in their way, but not of the right style. Luther was fostered here by the Elector Palatine. It was burnt bylightning in 1764. In the altar we saw the great tun, which is no wonder to my mind. At 11 we took the railway to Baden, through Carlsruhe. There we took a walk before dinner, saw the gaming-table, which is a famous occupation here; I never saw one before in a public saloon. I met Mr. Woollett. a Catholic of London, and his two daughters. He wants confession to an English priest, and I went with him to the convent of the Sepulchrines to see about it. They promised prayers for England. 12 nuns; the same order as New Hall; dinner at 5. Then we took a carriage to the ruins of the old castle, much grander than at Heidelberg. I did not venture to go up the castle, as I felt myself not fit. We came back to tea with Mrs. Craven, née La Ferronaye, wife of the EnglishChargé d'affaires, who is a convert. We met l'Abbé Martin de Nerlieu, curé de S. Jaques à Paris, and his vicaire, and Miss Jane Young. Home at 9½.
Friday, August 9.—I had to take a carriage and go at 6 o'clock to Lichtenthal, a mile or two from Baden, where the Herr Landherr is curé, and has power to give leave to hear confessions. There is a convent there of 18 nuns, Bernardines, who promised to pray for England. I returned and said mass at the convent in Baden, having first heard the confessions of Mr. Woollett and Miss Young's maid. I thought that night, as I lay in bed with my heart beating, that I must see a doctor to-day, and consult about the propriety of travelling; but the Phillippses both reasoned against this, and I saw it differently by daylight. We dined at thetable d'hôteat 1, and then set off on our way towards Munich. We travelled to-day through the grand scenery of the Black Forest, and arrived at 9 at Neuenburg, where there was a very civil host, and a nice inn, though a second rate.
Saturday, August 10. St. Lawrence.—The first, I think, (no, except 1835), on which I have lost mass since my priesthood; but there was no Catholic church. We made a slow day's journey; we began badly by going the first stage to Wildbad, from which we returned nearly to Neuenburg, as it seemed on our road right. The reason was, as wethought, that they directed us wrong yesterday, and sent us a longer road, whereas we should have got straight to Wildbad, without going to Neuenburg. We should have had a chapel at Wildbad, where a priest came during the season only. We got to Stuttgard at 5, and had a splendid dinner at the hotel. We met an old courier of Mr. Phillipps's, afterwards clerk at the Foreign Office, who lives here on a pension from England. He knew Cavani. He lives now at this hotel. Stuttgard seems an uninteresting place for a capital; has 4,000 inhabitants only. It is well to have seen it. We went on again in the evening to get to Göppingen, where we we were told there was a Catholic church, and we did not get to bed till 2; I fasting for to-morrow, and fearing a bad night.
Hôtel de la Poste, Sunday, Aug. 11.—I slept well, after all. I got up at 8, and we started directly in heavy rain for Gross Eplingen, two miles on our way, where the nearest Catholic church was. There was none in Göppingen. We arrived at the middle of the parochial mass. The Kirchen Gesangen are very impressive. After it I said mass, and after visiting the pastor, we went on to Ulm, which we reached at 5 about. Radhoff (Wheat) Hotel. Before dinner we went and spent a long time in the old cathedral, now a Lutheran church, and for that reason, however strangely, preserved wonderfully from spoiling. It was most magnificent; the aisles divided by most elegant pillars, a most glorious tabernacle, still standing, far surpassing Louvain. The old triptic, with a beautiful group in wood-carving, still over the altar; a beautiful pulpit in the style of the tabernacle; the screen was gone; and the stained glass preserved only in the choir and one or two more places; but so far, I thought it the richest I knew. It was wonderful how much better was the appearance of the church than if it had been in Catholic hands. After dinner was busy upstairs till 10½.
Monday, Aug. 12.—Got up at 5½; we were taken to the Catholic church, a poor thing, compared with the ancient one. I said mass there at 8; at 9½ we started for Augsburg. There was nothing remarkable on the way but theexcessive slowness of the Bavarian post-boys; they are remarkable, I believe, among the Germans. We dined about 5, at a small town called Tusmarchausan, a neat, clean, country town. Talked French with an old Italian who attends at the inn, and Latin with a Dominican priest, in a blue great-coat and Hessian boots. We set off again at 7, and reached Augsburg at 9½ or 10. Put up at the Three Moors,—Drei Mohren.
Tuesday, Aug. 13.—Went to say mass at the Church of St. Ulrick, at the altar of St. Afra, whose body was shown in a glass case over it, as it is within the octave of her feast. She was martyred at Augsburg, under Domitian. After breakfast, I went to the bank, then to the cathedral, where there was a high massde requiem; then I went to seek the Chanoine Stadler, a great friend of the English. I first saw another canon, and the Dean, at the consistorium; spoke about England. I found Canon Stadler at a convent calledof the English nuns, because founded by English 200 years ago; an examination of the girls under education was going on. The Regierung's President and other personages were there. I sat near the canon at this for half an hour; then went home to dinner. There came to dine a Scotch Kirk minister, who was at the convent which I visited, Mr. —— He is almost a Catholic in doctrine, but is connected with the Apostolics in England, and so has, I think, no disposition to turn now. Canon Stadler came late to dinner, and persuaded me to put off our journey to Munich from the three to the seven o'clock train. He took us to the Church of the Holy Cross, to see the miraculous Host, which, in 1194, was stolen by a woman of Augsburg, taken home, and wrapped in wax. After five years, she confessed it, and brought it back. On opening the wax, the priest found the appearance changed into that of flesh and blood. It has been preserved ever since, and has been the means of many miracles. We saw it in anostensoire, quite bright-red. The choir of the church is surrounded with pictures on the subject. We then went to the convent again, from, whence the Scotch gentleman took me to the bishop, whom we found near the cathedral. He talked no French, and Irecommended England as I could in Latin. We went to the Canon Stadler's house, where the Phillippses were waiting; we parted from him, and came and had tea at the Hof, and then took railway to Munich. We reached the Bayerische Hof, Hôtel de Bavière, at 9 3/4. This is one of the largest hotels in Europe, they say.
Wednesday, Aug. 14. Vigil of the Assumption.—I said mass in the cathedral, which is near our hotel. It is a high, large building, but very much disfigured. We all stayed at home till 12; then Phillipps and I went to call on Dr. Döllinger, who was out. I had to dine alone, as it is reckoned wrong for a priest tomanger grason a fasting day in public. After dinner, we all went to see the new Church of St. Louis, decorated splendidly by the King. Then the Church of St. Blaise in the faubourg, also decorated by him, both built by the town. We thought them very beautiful, but decidedly falling short of the right mark in point of style. In Ludwig Church is achef d'oeuvreof Cornelius, "The Last Judgment." It is not to our taste, nor to the king's; for Cornelius went away to Berlin, disgusted with the king's not admiring it. Among other defects, there are no real altars, only portable stones to be let into scagliola altars, which in Ludwig Kirche are all exactly one like the other. At 7, I went to the Franciscan convent, to confess to Père Constantius. He introduced me to the Provincial and community at supper. I spoke of England in lame Latin. At supper, in the hotel, we were joined by Mr. Wake, son of the Rev. Mr. Wake, of Courtene Hall, who recognised me, after about seventeen years. He alarmed us with his idea that a war will break out between France and England about Pritchard. What a war would this be!
Thursday, Aug. 15. Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary.—I had some difficulty in getting leave to hear the Phillippses' confessions, but I succeeded, and said mass at nine, during the high mass, with drums and all sort of music. We went again to mass at 11; then Phillipps and I went and found Döllinger, who came back and dined with us at thetable d'hôte. Then we walked with him to see Mr. and Mrs. Phillipps. He is a Professor of law, son of an Englishmanin Prussia. Then we went to see old Mr. Gorres, one of the first minds in Germany. At 8, we went to tea with Mr. and Mrs. Rio, the sister to Jones of Llanarth. We found there Mr. Dugdale, a northern English priest, and others. The conversation was very agreeable. Mrs. Rio is very infirm with sciatica, or settled pains like it.
Friday, Aug. 16.—Mass at the cathedral at 11. We went with Mr. Dugdale to the Pinacotheke, a grand building of this king, containing the vast collection of pictures which I saw with Lefevre at Schlussheim in 1820. What struck me most was the gallery on one side of the building, ornamented like Raphael's, in the Vatican. We dined at two; then went to see the new palace, which is opened at times regularly to all visitors. We went among a party of all sorts. I was recognised by Lady Lowther—that was, at least. This was from Lowther Castle, 1816. In the palace, the floors are beautiful wood-work, inlaid. Some rooms have fine pictures of the former German history, of Charlemagne, Barbarossa, Rodolph of Hapsburg, &c. The hall of audience is surrounded with striking colossal statues of ancient dukes of Bavaria. We cannot say much for the two rooms of Bavarian beauties; the king's fondness for them is not edifying, they say. From the palace we went to the studios; at half-past 7 went to tea at Dr. Döllinger's, and met almost all whom we visited yesterday, and, besides, Mr. Windischmann, canon of the cathedral. I got a long conversation with him in English. He became very zealous for promoting the prayers for England. There was there Mr. Raby, of Leicester, who was at Munich with his mother; his sister is become a nun at Nymphenburg.
Saturday, Aug. 17.—Said mass at the cathedral at 8½. After breakfast, I visited Mr. and Mrs. Farrell and their family, who are in this hotel. He is uncle to John Farrell. She said she had seen me at Leamington with Mr. Martyn. Then Count de Senufft Pilsach, Austrian ambassador, to whom Mr. Phillipps brought a note from Father Lythgoe, called. We then walked to the palace, and saw the rich chapel, in which many relics are kept in cases of gold and silver, with pearls and jewels, some carved by Benvenuto Cellini; the right handof St. John Baptist and St. Chrysostom among them, and some earth stained with the blood of Our Lord. A little triptic used on the scaffold by Mary Queen of Scots. We then went to the palace of the Duc de Leuchtenberg, son of Eugene Beauharnais. One room full of modern paintings, and another much larger, with a very choice collection of the Italian and Flemish schools, struck me. Dr. Döllinger dined with us, and then took us to the Public Library, a magnificent building, calculated for 1,000,000 volumes, and containing now 500,000, lately built by Ludwig I. We stayed a long time looking about it, and then went on to the University, another new building, very splendid. Dr. Döllinger is rector this next year. The library here is of 200,000 vols.; he is the chief librarian of it. We returned at 8, looking in,en passant, to the Ludwig Kirche. A beautiful sunset.
Sunday, August 18.—I went by invitation to say mass at the Auer Kirche,i.e., the new Gothic church in the suburb Au. Trusting to the fine sunset of last night, I took no umbrella, and very nearly got a wetting before I got home. At 9, Mr. Schlager called on me. He is studying the law, and looks so smart that I did not of myself recognize him. We went to high mass at the Theatine church. At 12, I went with Mr. Windischmann, to be presented to the Nuncio, Mgr. Vichi, to plead for England. I could not do much, as other visitors came in. After dinner, we went to seek vespers unsuccessfully at the Theatine church. At 5, we took a carriage, and went to the Sisters of Charity, where we got on badly for want of German, and saw nothing but the church, where service was going on. We then went to the public cemetery, near it. It is in the style of Père la Chaise, but inferior. What is remarkable is the place where the bodies newly dead are exposed for three days before burial. We saw several behind glass windows, dressed out and adorned with flowers. After coming home, I went at 7½ to Professor Görres's. He has open house for the circle of his friends every Sunday evening. Dr. Döllinger wished us all to go, but Phillipps thought it hardly proper without an invitation. There were twelve at supper; among them Dr.Döllinger, Phillipps, Moy. The party was very agreeable, though I knew nothing of the German conversation, except what Dr. Döllinger translated to me. I came home at half-past 10.
Monday, August 19.—Said mass at the cathedral. Mrs. Dugdale came after breakfast, and went with us to the Glyptotheke, where are some fine pieces of ancient sculpture. I suppose the AEgina marbles are among the most valued. They are of an earlier style than the perfect models of Greek sculpture, finely designed but stiff. The whole thing is too heathenish and so immodest. It is a mystery to me how all these sights are consistent with Catholic principle, especially the Venuses and Adonises by Christian masters, like Canova. The building is very noble. We went thence to what was far more satisfactory, the Basilica, built on the plan of the old church of St. Paul, at Rome, 300 feet long, with two ranges of glorious holy pictures, one range being the whole history of our English St. Boniface. I hope this is there as a memorial of what Germany owes to England, and as an excitement to pray for us. I came back to receive Mr. Schlager to dine with me at thetable d'hôte. Phillipps dined at Mr. Rio's, where I joined them at 3, having first gone with Mr. Schlager to his lodgings. Rio talked splendidly about England, and Dr. Döllinger promised to write articles to call to prayer for it. I came home at 5, said office in the cathedral, and at 7½ we went to supper with Dr. and Mrs. Phillipps, where we met all the circle, the Görreses, Windischman, Döllinger, Rios, Mrs. Raby, Mrs. Dugdale, &c.
Tuesday, August 20. St. Bernard.—Mass at the cathedral at 10. I took a carriage and went with Mrs. Dugdale and Mrs. Raby to Nymphenburg, where is the principal convent of the English nuns, of which I saw a house at Augsburg. There are ten houses in Bavaria; Mrs. Raby's daughter is a novice there. We stopped a good while, and I hope a good step was taken in my work. Mr. Dugdale promises to follow up ardently the begging prayers. I came home before 2, and stayed at home till 5, when we went with the two boys to a grand dinner with le Comte de Zeuft,the Austrian ambassador. There were twenty at table: the Nuncio, Mr. Aebel, minister of the interior, the chief Catholic physician, a Polish Countess Kitzka, and all our friends the Professors were there. I sat between Dr. Phillipps and Windischman. We stayed till near 10. The Comte de Zeuft promised great help for England. It is my first opening in Austria. Mrs. Aebel assured me that the Government would be well pleased with whatever was done in this way, which is a great point secured. I also had an interesting talk on the subject with the Countess Kitzka, who proposed prayer for Poland also on Saturdays. This was, in short, a productive evening.
Wednesday, August 21.—Mass at the cathedral. I walked with Mr. Dugdale to the convent of Sisters of Providence joining the great hospital we failed in entering on Sunday. We got one nun who spoke a little French to show us over the hospital, but we made little of gaining prayers. I found palpitations coming from the walk, and so I came home and stayed till I went with Phillipps to dine at 4 with the Nuncio. The chief guests were Comte de Zeuft and Baron Frujberg,conseilleur d'état, and twelve or fourteen more. The Nuncio took charge of the little prayer for England adopted by the Belgian bishops, and promised to get ample indulgences at Rome for the masses, communions, and prayers for England. We came home and took Mrs. Phillipps to tea at Dr. Döllinger's, Baron Frujberg, Rio, Hüffler, the historian of the German popes of the 11th century.
Thursday, August 22.—Mass at 8. I stayed at home writing to Dr. Wiseman from 11 to 12; then went with Dr. Döllinger to be presented to Madame di Frujberg, and her sister Amelia de Mongeras. Talked about England and prayers. At home I found Comte de Zeuft and the Nuncio paying a visit. Then dinner at 2½. Mr. Windischman took me to see the Archbishop, 84 years old. He has his intellect quite sound, and was favourable to the prayers, but not very zealous. I came home and stayed till 7, writing to Mrs. Beaumont and Mrs. Canning, saying office, &c. At 7 Mr. and Mrs. Rio and two children, Dr. Phillipps,Döllinger, and Windischman came to tea and supper, so a parting visit. Little Miss Rio got sick with the smoke in the salon.
Friday, August 23.—Mass at 7½ in the cathedral for the last time. After breakfast a visit from Mr. Dugdale and old Görres, and a talk with Mr. Woodwich, a very nice young Anglican, whom Phillipps met at Cologne, and came yesterday to Munich. The horses came for our departure at 11, but we did not start till ¼ to 1. I sat in the carriage saying office. We had a pretty journey, approaching a line of fine mountains. We reached a town called Tegern See, and we put up at Le Troitteur Hof. When we came to dine, we found ourselves worse off than we have yet been. No bread without aniseed, and hardly enough to eat for all but me, who took meat. However, this is an interesting spot. Out of my window I have a sweet view of the lake and mountains opposite, with a bright moon upon them.
Saturday, August 24.—I went before 7 to find the old priest to say mass. The church is a handsome one attached to a large building which once was a Benedictine convent, but was turned by the old king, my former acquaintance, into a country palace. Prince Charles lives here now. The old priest was one of the monks. There are four now alive out of forty-three. We started at 9, and went through beautiful mountain scenery, especially that part of the road which lies along the bank of Achensee, a beautiful blue lake. We dined at about 2, at Achenthal, just before coming to the lake. We were delayed by a spring breaking, and only reached Schwartz, a town of 4,500 people. The inn La Poète is kept by Anthony Reiner, one of a family of three men and a sister, who about 1830 were 2½ years in England, singing Tyrolese songs, and made £4,000. Mrs. Ambrose heard them at Sir Thomas Acland's. We had tea in the billiard-room, and saw some beautiful play.
Sunday, Aug. 25.—I said mass at 6½, at the Franciscan church. In the convent are twenty-one priests and twenty-five students, besides lay brothers. I recommended England and was kindly heard. After breakfast we went together to the parish church; at 8 a sermon begins—we heard the end of it, preached by a Franciscan. Mass follows thesermon. The style of music, both here and in the Franciscan church, where I heard part of the high mass, is high figured. We set off for Innspruck after. It was raining all the way. We arrived at 2 at the Golden Sun (die goldene Sonne), in a fine wide street. We had dinner, during which we were surprised and pleased by a visit from Mrs. Amherst and Mary. She has a house in this street, and saw us pass by. Three daughters are with her. Soon after we went to see the Franciscan church, in which is the famous monument of Maximilian, and round it bronze figures of illustrious personages, and on the side a marble monument of Hoffa. They are not all saints, and it is thought to be an unbecoming ornament to a church. They certainly cause distractions by the number of people who come to see the sculpture, which makes this small church almost like a Glyptotheke. After this, Mrs. Amherst took me to the Redemptorists, where Father Prost talks English, and received me most cordially, and presented me to the Rector. I then went to the Franciscan convent, where, as at Munich, I saw the fathers at supper, and recommended England to the Provincial, who promised to convey my wishes to the 300 subjects of the 10 houses of his province. In this little house there are eight priests. He sent a man to take me to the Decanus, living near the parish church, to ask for leave to hear confessions to-morrow. He was a most amiable, kind old man, and promised to speak for me to all the clergy. I went to meet our party at tea with the Amhersts at 7, and had a very pleasant evening. Home at 9¼.