The intelligence published last Saturday (see date of article) is sufficient to prove that the great earthquake which has devastated Peru fully equalled, if it did not surpass, the most terrible catastrophes which have ever befallen that country. It presents, too, all the features which have hitherto characterised earthquakes in this neighbourhood. These are well worthy of careful study, and appear to have an important bearing on the modern theory of earthquakes.
It has been commonly held that the seat of disturbance in the earthquakes which have shaken the country west of the Andes has lain always at some point or other beneath that range of mountains. The fact that several large volcanoes are found in the Cordilleras has seemed confirmatory of this view. The account we have also of the great earthquake at Riobamba in 1797, seems only explicable by supposing that the seat of disturbance lay almost immediately beneath that city. The inhabitants were flung vertically upwards into the air, and to such a height that Humboldt found the skeletons of many of them on the summit of the hill La Culca, on the farther side of the small river on which Riobamba is built. The ruins of many houses were also flung to the same spot. Here, therefore, was evidence of that vertical (or, as Humboldt expresses it, explosive)force which is only to be looked for immediately above the centre of concussion.
Yet the consideration of the evidence afforded by the news just published seems at first sight somewhat opposed to this view, and to point rather to a seat of disturbance lying considerably to the west of the Peruvian shores. ‘At Chala,’ says our informant, ‘the sea receded, and a wave rose fifty feet, and returned, spreading into the town, a distance of about a thousand feet. Three successive times everything within range was swept away, followed by twelve shocks of earthquake, lasting from three seconds to two minutes.’ The arrival of great sea-waves before the land-shocks were felt, seems decisively to indicate that the seat of disturbance lay beneath the ocean, and not beneath the land. I am disposed to believe, however, that in the confusion of mind naturally resulting from the occurrence of so terrible a catastrophe, the sequence of events may not have been very closely attended to, for in other places the arrival of the great sea-wave is distinctly described as following the occurrence of the earth-shock. At Arica, for example, a considerable interval would seem to have elapsed before the terrible sea-wave, which has always characterised Peruvian earthquakes, poured in upon the town. The agent of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company, whose house had been destroyed by the earth-shock, saw the great sea-wave while he was flying towards the hills. He writes:—’While passing towards the hills, with the earth shaking, a great crywent up to heaven. The sea had retired. On clearing the town, I looked back and saw that the vessels were being carried irresistibly seawards. In a few minutes the sea stopped, and then arose a mighty wave fifty feet high, and came in with a fearful rush, carrying everything before it in terrible majesty. The whole of the shipping came back, speeding towards inevitable doom. In a few minutes all was completed—every vessel was either on shore or bottom upwards.’ This, then, was undoubtedly the great sea-wave, as compared with the minor waves of disturbance which characterise all earthquakes near the shores of the ocean.
One remarkable feature in this terrible earthquake is the enormous range of country affected by it. From Quito southwards as far as Iquique—or, in other words, for a distance considerably exceeding a full third part of the whole length of the South American Andes—the shock was felt with the most terrible distinctness. We have yet to learn how much farther to the north and south, and how far inland on the eastern slopes of the Andes, the shock was experienced. But there can be little doubt that the disturbed country was equal to at least a fourth of Europe.
The portion of the Andes thus disturbed seems to be distinct from the part to which the great Chilian earthquakes belong. The difference in character between the Peruvian and Chilian earthquakes is a singular and interesting phenomenon. The difference corresponds to a feature long since pointed out by Sir Charles Lyell,—the alternation, on a grand scale, ofdistricts of active with those of extinct volcanoes. It is said that in Chili a year scarcely ever passes without shocks of earthquake being felt; in certain regions, not even a month. A similar persistence of earthquake-disturbance characterises Peru. Yet, although both districts are shaken in this manner, there seems to be distinct evidence of alternating disturbance as respects the occurrence of great earthquakes. Thus in 1797 took place the terrible earthquake of Riobamba. Then, thirty years later, a series of great earthquakes shook Chili, permanently elevating the whole line of coast to the height of several feet. Now, again, after another interval of about thirty years, the Andes are disturbed by a great earthquake, and this time it is the Peruvian Andes which experience the shock. Between Chili and Peru there is a space upwards of five hundred miles long, in which no volcanic action has been observed. Singularly enough, this very portion of the Andes, to which one would imagine the Peruvians and Chilians would fly as to a region of safety, is the part most thinly inhabited, insomuch that, as Von Buch observes, it is in some places entirely deserted.
Near Quito the trembling of the earth is almost incessant, according to M. Boussingault. He considers that the frequency of the movement is due rather to the continual falling in of masses of rock which have been fractured in recent earthquakes, than to the persistence of subterranean action. He adds that the height of several mountains in the Andes has diminishedin modern times. He refers, doubtless, to the Peruvian and Columbian Andes, and not to the Chilian. In the latter portion of the range there must be a continual increase of height, since each earthquake in Chili has produced a perceptible recession of the sea. Darwin, indeed, relates that near Valparaiso he saw beds of seashells belonging to recent species at a height of about a quarter of a mile above the present sea-level; and he concluded that the land had been raised to this height by a series of such small elevations as were observed to have taken place during the earthquakes of 1822, 1835, and 1837. That a contrary process should be going on in Peru, confirms the idea that a sort of undulatory or balancing motion is taking place—one long stretch of the Cordilleras rising while another is sinking. A tradition prevails among the Indians of Lican that the mountain called L’Altar, or Cassac Urcu—which means ‘the chief’—was once the highest of the sub-equatorial Andes, being higher even than Chimborazo; but, adds the tradition, in the reign of Quainia Abomatha, before the discovery of America, a prodigious eruption took place, which lasted no less than eight years, and brought down the summit of the mountain. M. Boussingault states that the fragments of trachyte which once formed the summit of this celebrated mountain are now spread over the plain. At present Cotopaxi is the loftiest volcano of the Cordilleras, its height being no less than 18,858 feet. No mountain has ever been the seat of such terrible and destructive eruptions as those which have burst forth from Cotopaxi. The intensityof the heat which prevails during eruption will be readily gathered from the circumstance that in January 1803 the enormous bed of snow which usually covers the cone of the volcano was dissolved in a single night.
It would seem that the Mexican volcanoes also belong to the same region of disturbance. Near the Isthmus of Panama the great Cordillera of the Andes is reduced to the height of about 800 feet, and beyond begins the continuation of the volcanic chain in Central America and Mexico. Nor are the volcanoes of the West Indian or Caribbee Islands wholly disconnected with the region of disturbance in Southern America. And it is rather singular that even the earthquakes which have occurred in the valley of the Mississippi seem to be connected with the West Indian and South American volcanic region. The violent earthquakes which took place at New Madrid in 1812 occurred at exactly the same time as the earthquake of Paranas, ‘so that it is possible,’ says Sir Charles Lyell, ‘that these two points are part of one volcanic region.’
(From theDaily News, September 18, 1868.)
On August 13, 1868, one of the most terrible calamities which has ever visited a people befell the unfortunate inhabitants of Peru. In that land earthquakes are nearly as common as rain-storms are with us;and shocks by which whole cities are changed into a heap of ruins are by no means infrequent. Yet even in Peru, ‘the land of earthquakes,’ as Humboldt has termed it, no such catastrophe as that of August 1868 had occurred within the memory of man. It was not one city which was laid in ruins, but a whole empire. Those who perished were counted by tens of thousands, while the property destroyed by the earthquake was valued at millions of pounds sterling.
Although so many months have passed since this terrible calamity took place, scientific men have been busily engaged until quite recently in endeavouring to ascertain the real significance of the various events which were observed during and after the occurrence of the earthquake. The geographers of Germany have taken a special interest in interpreting the evidence afforded by this great manifestation of nature’s powers. Two papers have been written recently on the great earthquake of August 13, 1868, one by Professor Von Hochstetter, the other by Herr Von Tschudi, which present an interesting account of the various effects, by land and by sea, which resulted from the tremendous upheaving force to which the western flanks of the Peruvian Andes were subjected on that day. The effects on land, although surprising and terrible, yet only differ in degree from those which have been observed in other earthquakes. But the progress of the great sea-wave which was generated by the upheaval of the Peruvian shores and propagated over the whole of the Pacific Ocean differs altogether fromany earthquake-phenomena before observed. Other earthquakes have indeed been followed by oceanic disturbances; but these have been accompanied by terrestrial motions, so as to suggest the idea that they had been caused by the motion of the sea-bottom, or of the neighbouring land. In no instance has it ever before been known that a well-marked wave of enormous proportions should have been propagated over the largest ocean-tract on our globe, by an earth-shock whose direct action was limited to a relatively small region, and that region not situated in the centre, but on one side of the wide area traversed by the wave.
I propose to give a brief sketch of the history of this enormous sea-wave. In the first place, however, it may be well to remind the reader of a few of the more prominent features of the great shock to which this wave owed its origin.
It was at Arequipa, at the foot of the lofty volcanic mountain Misti, that the most terrible effects of the great earthquake were experienced. Within historic times Misti has poured forth no lava-streams; but that the volcano is not extinct is clearly shown by the fact that in 1542 an enormous mass of dust and ashes was vomited forth from its crater. On August 13, 1868, Misti showed no signs of being disturbed. So far as their volcanic neighbour was concerned, the 44,000 inhabitants of Arequipa had no reason to anticipate the catastrophe which presently befell them. At five minutes past five an earthquake shock wasexperienced, which, though severe, seems to have worked little mischief. Half a minute later, however, a terrible noise was heard beneath the earth; a second shock more violent than the first was felt; and then began the swaying motion, gradually increasing in intensity. In the course of the first minute this motion had become so violent that the inhabitants ran in terror out of their houses into the streets and squares. In the next two minutes the swaying movement had so increased that the more lightly-built houses were cast to the ground, and the flying people could scarcely keep their feet. ‘And now,’ says Von Tschudi, ‘there followed during two or three minutes a terrible scene. The swaying motion which had hitherto prevailed changed into fierce vertical upheaval. The subterranean roaring increased in the most terrifying manner: then were heard the heart-piercing shrieks of the wretched people, the bursting of walls, the crashing fall of houses and churches, while over all rolled thick clouds of a yellowish-black dust, which, had they been poured forth many minutes longer, would have suffocated thousands.’ Although the shock had lasted but a few minutes, the whole town was destroyed. Not one building remained uninjured, and there were few which did not lie in shapeless heaps of ruins.
At Tacna and Arica, the earth-shock was less severe, but strange and terrible phenomena followed it. At the former place a circumstance occurred, the cause and nature of which yet remain a mystery.About three hours after the earthquake—in other words, at about eight o’clock in the evening—an intensely brilliant light made its appearance above the neighbouring mountains. It lasted for fully half an hour, and has been ascribed to the eruption of some as yet unknown volcano.
At Arica the sea-wave produced even more destructive effects than had been caused by the earthquake. About twenty minutes after the first earth-shock, the sea was seen to retire, as if about to leave the shores wholly dry; but presently its waters returned with tremendous force. A mighty wave, whose length seemed immeasurable, was seen advancing like a dark wall upon the unfortunate town, a large part of which was overwhelmed by it. Two ships, the Peruvian corvette ‘America’ and the United States ‘double-ender’ ‘Watertree,‘ were carried nearly half a mile to the north of Arica, beyond the railroad which runs to Tacna, and there left stranded high and dry. This enormous wave was considered by the English vice-consul at Arica to have been fully fifty feet in height.
At Chala, three such waves swept in after the first shocks of earthquake. They overflowed nearly the whole of the town, the sea passing more than half a mile beyond its usual limits.
At Islay and Iquique similar phenomena were manifested. At the former town the sea flowed in no less than five times, and each time with greater force. Afterwards the motion gradually diminished, but evenan hour and a half after the commencement of this strange disturbance, the waves still ran forty feet above the ordinary level. At Iquique, the people beheld the inrushing wave whilst it was still a great way off. A dark blue mass of water, some fifty feet in height, was seen sweeping in upon the town with inconceivable rapidity. An island lying before the harbour was completely submerged by the great wave, which still came rushing on, black with the mud and slime it had swept from the sea-bottom. Those who witnessed its progress from the upper balconies of their houses, and presently saw its black mass rushing close beneath their feet, looked on their safety as a miracle. Many buildings were indeed washed away, and in the low-lying parts of the town there was a terrible loss of life. After passing far inland the wave slowly returned seawards, and strangely enough, the sea, which elsewhere heaved and tossed for hours after the first great wave had swept over it, here came soon to rest.
At Callao a yet more singular instance was afforded of the effect which circumstances may have upon the motion of the sea after a great earthquake has disturbed it. In former earthquakes Callao has suffered terribly from the effects of the great sea-wave. In fact, on two occasions the whole town has been destroyed, and nearly all its inhabitants have been drowned, through the inrush of precisely such waves as flowed into the ports of Arica and Chala. But upon this occasion the centre of subterranean disturbancemust have been so situated that either the wave was diverted from Callao, or more probably two waves reached Callao from different sources and at different times, so that the two undulations partly counteracted each other. Certain it is that, although the water retreated strangely from the coast near Callao, insomuch that a wide tract of the sea-bottom was uncovered, there was no inrushing wave comparable with those described above. The sea afterwards rose and fell in an irregular manner, a circumstance confirming the supposition that the disturbance was caused by two distinct oscillations. Six hours after the occurrence of the earth-shock, the double oscillations seem for a while to have worked themselves into unison, for at this time three considerable waves rolled in upon the town. But clearly these waves must not be compared with those which in other instances had made their appearance within half an hour of the earth-throes. There is little reason to doubt that if the separate oscillations had reinforced each other earlier, Callao would have been completely destroyed. As it was, a considerable amount of mischief was effected; but the motion of the sea presently became irregular again, and so continued until the morning of August 14th, when it began to ebb with some regularity. But during the 14th there were occasional renewals of the irregular motion, and several days elapsed before the regular ebb and flow of the sea were resumed.
Such were among the phenomena presented in the region where the earthquake itself was felt. It willbe seen at once that within this region, or rather along that portion of the sea-coast which falls within the central region of disturbance, the true character of the sea-wave generated by the earthquake could not be recognised. If a rock fall from a lofty cliff into a comparatively shallow sea, the water around the place where the rock has fallen is disturbed in an irregular manner. The sea seems at one place to leap up and down; elsewhere one wave seems to beat against another, and the sharpest eye can detect no law in the motion of the seething waters. But presently, outside the scene of disturbance, a circular wave is seen to form, and if the motion of this wave be watched, it is seen to present the most striking contrast to the turmoil and confusion at its centre. It sweeps onwards and outwards in a regular undulation. Gradually it loses its circular figure (unless the sea-bottom happens to be unusually level), showing that although its motion is everywhere regular, it is not everywhere equally swift. A wave of this sort, though incomparably vaster, swept swiftly away on every side from the scene of the great earthquake near the Peruvian Andes. It has been calculated that the width of this wave varied from one million to five million feet, or roughly, from 200 to 1,000 miles, while, when in mid-Pacific, the length of the wave, measured along its summit in a widely-curved path from one side to another of the great ocean, cannot have been less than 8,000 miles.
We cannot tell how deep-seated was the centre ofsubterranean action; but there can be no doubt it was very deep indeed, because otherwise the shock felt in towns separated from each other by hundreds of miles could not have been so nearly contemporaneous. Therefore the portion of the earth’s crust upheaved must have been enormous, for the length of the region where the direct effects of the earthquake were perceived is estimated by Professor Von Hochstetter at no less than 240 miles. The breadth of the region is unknown, because on one side the slope of the Andes and on the other the ocean concealed the motion of the earth’s crust.
The great ocean wave swept, as I have said, in all directions around the scene of the earth-throe. Over a large part of its course its passage was unnoted, because in the open sea the effects even of so vast an undulation could not be perceived. A ship would slowly rise as the crest of the great wave passed under her, and then as slowly sink again. This may seem strange, at first sight, when it is remembered that in reality the great sea-wave we are considering swept at the rate of three or four hundred sea-miles an hour over the larger part of the Pacific. But when the true character of ocean-waves is understood, when it is remembered that there is no transference of the water itself at this enormous rate, but simply a transmission of motion (precisely as when in a high wind waves sweep rapidly over a corn-field, while yet each cornstalk remains fixed in the ground), it will be seen that the effects of the great sea-wave could only beperceived near the shore. Even there, as we shall presently see, there was much to convey the impression that the land itself was rising and falling rather than that the deep was moved. But among the hundreds of ships which were sailing upon the Pacific when its length and breadth were traversed by the great sea-wave, there was not one in which any unusual motion was perceived.
In somewhat less than three hours after the occurrence of the earthquake, the ocean-wave inundated the port of Coquimbo, on the Chilian seaboard, some 800 miles from Arica. An hour or so later it had reached Constitucion, 450 miles farther south; and here for some three hours the sea rose and fell with strange violence. Farther south, along the shore of Chili, even to the island of Chiloe, the shore-wave travelled, though with continually diminishing force, owing doubtless to the resistance which the irregularities of the shore opposed to its progress.
The northerly shore-wave seems to have been more considerable; and a moment’s study of a chart of the two Americas will show that this circumstance is highly significant. When we remember that the principal effects of the land-shock were experienced within that angle which the Peruvian Andes form with the long north-and-south line of the Chilian and Bolivian Andes, we see at once that, had the centre of the subterranean action been near the scene where the most destructive effects were perceived, no sea-wave, or but a small one, could have been sent towards theshores of North America. The projecting shores of northern Peru and Ecuador could not have failed to divert the sea-wave towards the west; and though a reflected wave might have reached California, it would only have been after a considerable interval of time, and with dimensions much less than those of the sea-wave which travelled southwards. When we see that, on the contrary, a wave of even greater proportions travelled towards the shores of North America, we seem forced to the conclusion that the centre of the subterranean action must have been so far to the west that the sea-wave generated by it had a free course to the shores of California.
Be this as it may, there can be no doubt that the wave which swept the shores of Southern California, rising upwards of sixty feet above the ordinary sea-level, was absolutely the most imposing of all the indirect effects of the great earthquake. When we consider that even in San Pedro Bay, fully five thousand miles from the centre of disturbance, a wave twice the height of an ordinary house rolled in with unspeakable violence only a few hours after the occurrence of the earth-throe, we are most strikingly impressed with the tremendous energy of the earth’s movement.
Turning to the open ocean, let us track the great wave on its course past the multitudinous islands which dot the surface of the great Pacific.
The inhabitants of the Sandwich Islands, which lie about 6,300 miles from Arica, might have imagined themselves safe from any effects which could be producedby an earthquake taking place so far away from them. But on the night between August 13 and 14, the sea around this island-group rose in a surprising manner, insomuch that many thought the islands were sinking and would shortly subside altogether beneath the waves. Some of the smaller islands, indeed, were for a time completely submerged. Before long, however, the sea fell again, and as it did so the observers ‘found it impossible to resist the impression that the islands were rising bodily out of the water.’ For no less than three days this strange oscillation of the sea continued to be experienced, the most remarkable ebbs and floods being noticed at Honolulu, on the island of Woahoo.
But the sea-wave swept onwards far beyond these islands.
At Yokohama, in Japan, more than 10,500 miles from Arica, an enormous wave poured in on August 14, but at what hour we have no satisfactory record. So far as distance is concerned, this wave affords most surprising evidence of the stupendous nature of the disturbance to which the waters of the Pacific Ocean had been subjected. The whole circumference of the earth is but 25,000 miles, so that this wave had travelled over a distance considerably greater than two-fifths of the earth’s circumference. A distance which the swiftest of our ships could not traverse in less than five or six weeks had been swept over by this enormous undulation in the course of a few hours.
More complete details reach us from the Southern Pacific.
Shortly before midnight the Marquesas Isles and the low-lying Tuamotu group were visited by the great wave, and some of these islands were completely submerged by it. The lonely Opara Isle, where the steamers which run between Panama and New Zealand have their coaling station, was visited at about half-past eleven in the evening by a billow which swept away a portion of the coal depôt. Afterwards great waves came rolling in at intervals of about twenty minutes, and several days elapsed before the sea resumed its ordinary ebb and flow.
It was not until about half-past two on the morning of August 14, that the Samoa Isles (sometimes called the Navigator Islands) were visited by the great wave. The watchmen startled the inhabitants from their sleep by the cry that the sea was about to overwhelm them; and already, when the terrified people rushed from their houses, the sea was found to have risen far above the highest watermark. But it presently began to sink again, and then commenced a series of oscillations, which lasted for several days and were of a very remarkable nature. Once in every quarter of an hour the sea rose and fell, but it was noticed that it rose twice as rapidly as it sank. This peculiarity is well worth remarking. The eminent physicist Mallet speaks thus (I follow Lyell’s quotation) about the waves which traverse an open sea:‘The great sea-wave, advancing at the rate of several miles in a minute, consists, in the deep ocean, of a long low swell of enormous volume, having an equal slope before and behind, and that so gentle that it might pass under a ship without being noticed. But when it reaches the edge of soundings its front slope becomes short and steep, while its rear slope is long and gentle.’ On the shores visited by such a wave, the sea would appear to rise more rapidly than it sank. We have seen that this happened on the shores of the Samoan group, and therefore the way in which the sea rose and fell on the days following the great earthquake gave significant evidence of the nature of the sea-bottom in the neighbourhood of these islands. As the change of the great wave’s figure could not have been quickly communicated, we may conclude with certainty that the Samoan Islands are the summits of lofty mountains, whose sloping sides extend far towards the east.
This conclusion affords interesting evidence of the necessity of observing even the seemingly trifling details of important phenomena.
The wave which visited the New Zealand Isles was altogether different in character, affording a noteworthy illustration of another remark of Mallet’s. He says that where the sea-bottom slopes in such a way that there is water of some depth close in-shore, the great wave may roll in and do little damage; and we have seen that so it happened in the case of the Samoan Islands. But he adds, that‘where the shore is shelving, there will be first a retreat of the water, and then the wave will break upon the beach and roll far in upon the land.’ This is precisely what happened when the great wave reached the eastern shores of New Zealand, which are known to shelve down to very shallow water, continuing far away to sea towards the east:—
At about half-past three on the morning of August 14 the water began to retreat in a singular manner from the Port of Lyttelton, on the eastern shores of the southernmost of the New Zealand Islands. At length the whole port was left entirely dry, and so remained for about twenty minutes. Then the water was seen returning like a wall of foam ten or twelve feet in height, which rushed with a tremendous noise upon the port and town. Towards five o’clock the water again retired, very slowly as before, not reaching its lowest ebb until six. An hour later, a second huge wave inundated the port. Four times the sea retired and returned with great power at intervals of about two hours. Afterwards the oscillation of the water was less considerable, but it had not wholly ceased until August 17, and only on the 18th did the regular ebb and flow of the tide recommence.
Around the Samoan group the water rose and fell once in every fifteen minutes, while on the shores of New Zealand each oscillation lasted no less than two hours. Doubtless the different depths of water, the irregular conformation of the island groups, and other like circumstances, were principally concerned in producing these singular variations. Yet they do notseem fully sufficient to account for so wide a range of difference. Possibly a cause yet unnoticed may have had something to do with the peculiarity. In waves of such enormous extent, it would be quite impossible to determine whether the course of the wave-motion was directed full upon a line of shore or more or less obliquely. It is clear that in the former case the waves would seem to follow each other more swiftly than in the latter, even though there were no difference in their velocity.
Far on beyond the shores of New Zealand the great wave coursed, reaching at length the coast of Australia. At dawn of August 14, Moreton Bay was visited by five well-marked waves. At Newcastle, on the Hunter River, the sea rose and fell several times in a remarkable manner, the oscillatory motion commencing at half-past six in the morning. But the most significant evidence of the extent to which the sea-wave travelled in this direction was afforded at Port Fairy, Belfast, South Victoria. Here the oscillation of the water was distinctly perceived at midday on August 14; and yet, to reach this point, the sea-wave must not only have travelled on a circuitous course nearly equal in length to half the circumference of the earth, but must have passed through Bass’s Straits, between Australia and Van Diemen’s Land, and so have lost a considerable portion of its force and dimensions.
When we remember that had not the effects of the earth-shock been limited by the shores of South America, a wave of disturbance equal in extent to that whichtravelled westward would have swept towards the east, we see that the force of the shock was sufficient to have disturbed the waters of an ocean covering the whole surface of the earth. For the sea-waves which reached Yokohama in one direction and Port Fairy in another had each traversed a distance nearly equal to half the earth’s circumference; so that if the surface of the earth were all sea, waves setting out in opposite directions from the centre of disturbance would have met each other at the antipodes of their starting-point.
It is impossible to contemplate the effects which followed the great earthquake—the passage of a sea-wave of enormous volume over fully one-third of the earth’s surface, and the force with which, at the farthermost limits of its range, the wave rolled in upon shores more than 10,000 miles from its starting-place—without feeling that those geologists are right who deny that the subterranean forces of the earth are diminishing in intensity. It may be difficult, perhaps, to look on the effects which are ascribed to ancient earth-throes without imagining for a while that the power of modern earthquakes is altogether less. But when we consider fairly the share which time had in those ancient processes of change, when we see that while mountain ranges were being upheaved or valleys depressed to their present position, race after race and type after type appeared on the earth, and lived out the long lives which belong to races and to types, we are recalled to the remembrance of the great workwhich the earth’s subterranean forces are still engaged upon. Even now continents are being slowly depressed or upheaved, even now mountain ranges are being raised to a new level, table-lands are in process of formation, and great valleys are being gradually scooped out. It may need an occasional outburst such as the earthquake of August 1868 to remind us that great forces are at work beneath the earth’s surface. But, in reality, the signs of change have long been noted. Old shore-lines shift their place, old soundings vary; the sea advances in one place and retires in another; on every side Nature’s plastic hand is at work modelling and remodelling the earth, in order that it may always be a fit abode for those who are to dwell upon it.
(FromFraser’s Magazine, July 1870.)
We have lately had fearful evidence of the energy of the earth’s internal forces. A vibration which, when considered with reference to the dimensions of the earth’s globe, may be spoken of as an indefinitely minute quivering limited to an insignificant area, has sufficed to destroy the cities and villages of whole provinces, to cause the death of thousands of human beings, and to effect a destruction of property which must be estimated by millions of pounds sterling. Such a catastrophe as this serves indeedto show how poor and weak a creature man is in presence of the grand workings of Nature. The mere throes which accompany her unseen subterranean efforts suffice to crumble man’s strongest buildings in a moment into dust, while the unfortunate inhabitants are either crushed to death among the ruins, or forced to remain shuddering spectators of the destruction of their homes.
At first sight it may seem paradoxical to assert that earthquakes, fearfully destructive as they have so often proved, are yet essentially preservative and restorative phenomena; yet this is strictly the case. Had no earthquakes taken place in old times, man would not now be living on the face of the earth; if no earthquakes were to take place in future, the term of man’s existence would be limited within a range of time far less than that to which it seems likely, in all probability, to be extended.
If the solid substance of the earth formed a perfect sphere in ante-geologic times—that is, in ages preceding those to which our present geologic studies extend—there can be no doubt that there was then no visible land above the surface of the water; the ocean must have formed a uniformly deep covering to the submerged surface of the solid globe. In this state of things, nothing but the earth’s subterranean forces could tend to the production of continents and islands. Let me be understood. I am not referring to the possibility or impossibility that lands and seas should suddenly have assumed their presentfigure without convulsion of any sort; thismighthave happened, since the Creator of all things can doubtless modify all things according to His will; I merely say that, assuming that in the beginning, as now, He permitted all things to work according to the laws He has appointed, then, undoubtedly, the submerged earth must have risen above the sea by the action of those very forms of force which produce the earthquake in our own times.
However this may be, it is quite certain that when once continents and lands had been formed, there immediately began a struggle between destructive and restorative (rather, perhaps, than preservative) forces.
The great enemy of the land is water, and water works the destruction of the land in two principal ways.
In the first place the sea tends to destroy the land by beating on its shores, and thus continually washing it away. It may seem at first sight that this process must necessarily be a slow one; in fact, many may be disposed to say that it is certainly a slow process, since we see that it does not alter the forms of continents and islands perceptibly in long intervals of time. But, as a matter of fact, we have never had an opportunity of estimating the full effects of this cause, since its action is continually being checked by the restorative forces we shall presently have to consider. Were it not thus checked, there can be little doubt that its effects would be cumulative; for the longer the processcontinued—that is, the more the land was beaten away—the higher would the sea rise, and the greater power would it have to effect the destruction of the remaining land.
I proceed to give a few instances of the sea’s power of effecting the rapid destruction of the land when nothing happens to interfere with the local action—premising, that this effect is altogether insignificant in comparison with that which would take place, even in that particular spot, if the sea’s action wereeverywhereleft unchecked.
The Shetland Isles are composed of substances which seem, of all others, best fitted to resist the disintegrating forces of the sea—namely, granite, gneiss, mica-slate, serpentine, greenstone, and many other forms of rock: yet, exposed as these islands are to the uncontrolled violence of the Atlantic Ocean, they are undergoing a process of destruction which, even within historical times, has produced very noteworthy changes. ‘Steep cliffs are hollowed out,’ says Sir Charles Lyell, ‘into deep caves and lofty arches; and almost every promontory ends in a cluster of rocks imitating the forms of columns, pinnacles, and obelisks.’ Speaking of one of the islands of this group, Dr. Hibbert says:‘The isle of Stennes presents a scene of unequalled desolation. In stormy winters, large blocks of stone are overturned, or are removed from their native beds, and hurried to a distance almost incredible. In the winter of 1802, a tabular mass, eight feet two inches by seven feet, and five feet one inch thick, was dislodged from its bed, and carried to a distance of from eighty to ninety feet. In other parts of the Shetland Isles, where the sea has encountered less solid materials, the work of destruction has proceeded yet more effectively. In Roeness, for example, the sea has wrought its way so fiercely that a large cavernous aperture 250 feet long has been hollowed out. But the most sublime scene,’ says Dr. Hibbert, ‘is where a mural pile of porphyry, escaping the process of disintegration that is devastating the coast, appears to have been left as a sort of rampart against the inroads of the ocean. The Atlantic, when provoked by wintry gales, batters against it with all the force of real artillery; and the waves, in their repeated assaults, have at length forced for themselves an entrance. This breach, named the Grind of the Navir, is widened every winter by the overwhelming surge that, finding a passage through it, separates large stones from its sides, and forces them to a distance of no less than 180 feet. In two or three spots, the fragments which have been detached are brought together in immense heaps, that appear as an accumulation of cubical masses, the product of some quarry.’
Let us next turn to a portion of the coast-line of Great Britain which is neither defended, on the one hand, by barriers of rock, nor attacked, on the other, by the full fury of the Atlantic currents. Along the whole coast of Yorkshire we find evidences of a continual process of dilapidation. Between the projectingheadland of Flamborough and Spurn Point (the coast of Holderness) the waste is particularly rapid. Many spots, which are now mere sandbanks, are marked in the old maps of Yorkshire as the sites of ancient towns and villages. Speaking of Hyde (one of these), Pennant says: ‘Only the tradition is left of this town.’ Owthorne and its church have been for the most part destroyed, as also Auburn, Hartburn, and Kilnsea. Mr. Phillips, in his ‘Geology of Yorkshire,’ states that not unreasonable fears are entertained that, at some future time, Spurn Point itself will become an island, or be wholly washed away, and then the ocean, entering into the estuary of the Humber, will cause great devastation. Pennant states that ‘several places, once towns of note upon the Humber, are now only recorded in history; and Ravensperg was at one time a rival of Hull, and a port so very considerable in 1332, that Edward Baliol and the confederate English barons sailed from hence to invade Scotland; and Henry IV., in 1399, made choice of this port to land at, to effect the deposal of Richard II.; yet the whole of this has since been devoured by the merciless ocean; extensive sands, dry at low water, are to be seen in their stead.’ The same writer also describes Spurn Point as shaped like a sickle, and the land to the north, he says, was ‘perpetually preyed on by the fury of the German Sea, which devours whole acres at a time.’
The decay of the shores of Norfolk and Suffolk is also remarkably rapid. Sir Charles Lyell relates some facts which throw an interesting light on theravages which the sea commits upon the land here. It was computed that when a certain inn was built at Sherringham, seventy years would pass before the sea could reach the spot: ‘the mean loss of land being calculated from previous observations to be somewhat less than one yard annually.’ But no allowance had been made for the fact that the ground slopedfromthe sea. In consequence of this peculiarity, the waste became greater and greater every year as the cliff grew lower. ‘Between the years 1824 and 1829, no less than seventeen yards were swept away;’ and when Sir Charles Lyell saw the place, only a small garden was left between the building and the sea. I need hardly add that all vestiges of the inn have long since disappeared. Lyell also relates that, in 1829, there was a depth of water sufficient to float a frigate at a point where, less than half a century before, there stood a cliff fifty feet high with houses upon it.
I have selected these portions of the coast of Great Britain, not because the destruction of our shores is greater here than elsewhere, but as serving to illustrate processes of waste and demolition which are going on around all the shores, not merely of Great Britain, but of every country on the face of the earth. Here and there, as I have said, there are instances in which a contrary process seems to be in action. Low-lying banks and shoals are formed—sometimes along stretches of coast extending for a considerable distance. But when we consider these formations closely, we find that they rather afford evidence of the energy of thedestructive forces to which the land is subject than promise to make up for the land which has been swept away. In the first place, every part of these banks consists of the debris of other coasts. Now we cannot doubt that of earth which is washed away from our shores, by far the larger part finds its way to the bottom of the deep seas; a small proportion only can be brought (by some peculiarity in the distribution of ocean-currents, or in the progress of the tidal wave) to aid in the formation of shoals and banks. The larger, therefore, such shoals and banks may be, the larger must be the amount of land which has been washed away never to reappear. And although banks and shoals of this sort grow year by year larger and larger, yet (unless added to artificially) they continue always either beneath the surface of the water in the case of shoals, or but very slightly raised above the surface. Now, if we suppose the destruction of land to proceed unchecked, it is manifest that at some period, however remote, the formation of shoals and banks must come to an end, owing to the continual diminution of the land from the demolition of which they derive their substance. In the meantime, the bed of the sea would be continually filling up, the level of the sea would be continually rising, and thus the banks would be either wholly submerged through the effect of this cause alone, or they would have so slight an elevation above the sea-level that they would offer little resistance to the destructive effects of the sea, which would then have no other land to act upon.
But we have yet to consider the second principal cause of the wasting away of the land. The cause we have just been dealing with acts upon the shores or outlines of islands and continents; the one we have now to consider acts upon their interior. Many, perhaps, would hardly suppose that the fall of rain upon the land could have any appreciable influence in the demolition of continents; but, as a matter of fact, there are few causes to which geologists attribute more importance. The very fact that enormous deltas have been formed at the mouths of many rivers—in other words, the actual growth of continents through the effects of rainfall—is a proof how largely this cause must tend to destroy and disintegrate the interiors of our continents. Dwelling on this point, Sir Charles Lyell presents the following remarkable illustration: ‘During a tour in Spain,’ he writes,‘I was surprised to see a district of gently undulating ground in Catalonia, consisting of red and grey sandstone, and in some parts of red marl, almost entirely denuded of herbage; while the roots of the pines, holm oaks, and some other trees, were half exposed, as if the soil had been washed away by a flood. Such is the state of the forests, for example, between Oristo and Vich, and near San Lorenzo. But being overtaken by a violent thunderstorm in the month of August, I saw the whole surface, even the highest levels of some flat-topped hills, streaming with mud, while on every declivity the devastation of torrents was terrific. The peculiarities in the physiognomy of the district were at once explained; and I was taught that, in speculating on the greater effects which the direct action of rain may once have produced on the surface of certain parts of England, we need not revert to periods when the heat of the climate was tropical.’
Combining the effects of the sea’s action upon the shores of continents, and of the action of rain upon their interior, and remembering that unless the process of demolition were checked in some way, each cause would act from year to year with new force—one through the effects of the gradual rise of the sea-bed, and the other through the effects of the gradual increase of the surface of ocean exposed to the vaporising action of the sun, which increase would necessarily increase the quantity of rain yearly precipitated on the land—we see the justice of the opinion expressed by Sir John Herschel, that, ‘had the primeval world been constructed as it now exists, time enough has elapsed, and force enough directed to that end has been in activity,to have long ago destroyed every vestige of land.’
We see, then, the necessity that exists for the action of some restorative or preservative force sufficient to counteract the effects of the continuous processes of destruction indicated above. If we consider, we shall see that the destructive forces owe their efficiency to their levelling action, that is, to their influence in reducing the solid part of the earth to the figure of a perfect sphere; therefore the form of force which is required to counteract them is one that shall tend to produce irregularities in the surface-contour ofthe earth. And it will be remarked, that althoughupheavalis the process which appears at first sight to be the only effectual remedy to the levelling action of rains and ocean-currents, yet the forcible depression of the earth’s surface may prove in many instances yet more effective, since it may serve to reduce the sea-level in other places.
Now, the earth’s subterranean forces serve to produce the very effects which are required in order to counteract the continual disintegration of the shores and interior parts of continents. In the first place, their action is not distributed with any approach to uniformity over different parts of the earth’s crust, and therefore the figure they tend to give to the surface of that crust is not that of a perfect sphere. This, of itself, secures the uprising of some parts of the solid earth above the sea-level. But this is not all. On a comparison of the various effects due to the action of subterranean forces, it has been found that the forces of upheaval act (on the whole) more powerfully under continents, and especially under the shore-lines of continents, while the forces of depression act most powerfully (on the whole) under the bed of the ocean. It need hardly be said that whenever the earth is upheaved in one part, it must be depressed somewhere else. Not necessarily at the same instant, it should be remarked. The process of upheaval may be either momentarily accompanied by a corresponding process of depression, or the latter process may take place by a gradual action of the elastic powers of the earth’s crust; but, in one wayor the other, the balance between upheaval and depression must be restored. Hence, if it can be shown that for the most part the forces of upheaval act underneath the land, it follows—though we may not be able to recognise the fact by obvious visible signs—that processes of depression are taking place underneath the ocean. Now, active volcanoes mark the centre of a district of upheaval, and most volcanoes are near the sea, as if (though, of course, this is not the true explanation) Nature had provided against the inroads of the ocean by seating the earth’s upheaving forces just where they are most wanted.
Even in earthquake districts which have no active vent, the same law is found to prevail. It is supposed by the most eminent seismologists that earthquake regions around a volcano, and earthquake regions apparently disconnected from any outlet, differ only in this respect, that in the one case the subterranean forces have had sufficient power to produce the phenomena of eruption, while in the other they have not. ‘In earthquakes,’ says Humboldt, ‘we have evidence of a volcano-producing force; but such a force, as universally diffused as the internal heat of the globe, and proclaiming itself everywhere, rarely acts with sufficient energy to produce actual eruptive phenomena; and when it does so, it is only in isolated and particular places.’
Of the influence of the earth’s subterranean forces in altering the level of land, I might quote many remarkable instances, but considerations of space compel me to confine myself to two or three. The slow processes of upheaval or depression may, perhaps, seemless immediately referable to subterranean action than those which are produced during the progress of an actual earthquake. I pass over, therefore, such phenomena as the gradual uprising of Sweden, the slow sinking of Greenland, and (still proceeding westward) the gradual uprising of Nova Scotia and the shores of Hudson’s Bay. Remarkable and suggestive as these phenomena really are, and indisputable as the evidence is on which they rest, they will probably seem much less striking to the reader than those which I am now about to quote.
On the 19th of November, 1822, a widely felt and destructive earthquake was experienced in Chili. On the next day, it was noticed for the first time that a broad line of sea-coast had been deserted by the sea for more than one hundred miles. A large part of this tract was covered by shell-fish, which soon died, and exhaled the most offensive effluvia. Between the old low-water mark and the new one, the fishermen found burrowing shells, which they had formerly had to search for amidst the surf. Rocks some way out to sea which had formerly been covered, were now dry at half ebb-tide.
Careful measurements showed that the rise of the land was greater at some distance inshore than along the beach. The watercourse of a mill about a mile inland from the sea had gained a fall of fourteen inches in little more than a hundred yards. At Valparaiso, the rise was three feet; at Quintero, four feet.
In February 1835, and in November 1837, a largetract of Chili was similarly shaken, a permanent rise of two feet following the former earthquake, and a rise of eight feet the latter.
The earthquake which took place at Cutch in 1819 is perhaps in some respects yet more remarkable. In this instance, phenomena of subsidence, as well as phenomena of upheaval, were witnessed. The estuary of the Indus, which had long been closed to navigation—being, in fact, only a foot deep at ebb-tide, and never more than six feet at flood—was deepened in parts to more than eighteen feet at low water. The fort and village of Sindree were submerged, only the tops of houses and walls being visible above the water. But although this earthquake seemed thus to have a land-destroying, instead of a land-creating effect, yet the instances of upheaval were, even in this case, far more remarkable than those of depression. ‘Immediately after the shock,’ says Sir Charles Lyell, ‘the inhabitants of Sindree saw at a distance of five miles and a half from their village a long elevated mound, where previously there had been a low and perfectly level plain. To this uplifted tract they gave the name of Ulla-Bund, or the “Mound of God,” to distinguish it from several artificial dams previously thrown across the eastern arm of the Indus. It has been ascertained,’ he adds, ‘that this new-raised country is upwards of fifty miles in length from east to west, running parallel to the line of subsidence which caused the grounds around Sindree to be flooded. The breadth of the elevation is conjectured to be in some parts sixteen miles,and its greatest ascertained height above the original level of the delta is ten feet—an elevation which appears to the eye to be very uniform throughout.‘
(FromChambers’s Journal, November 7, 1868.)
There is an old proverb which implies that England need never fear drought; and we have had clear evidence this year (1868) that an exceptionally dry summer is not necessarily followed by a bad harvest. But I believe that when a balance is carefully struck between the good and the evil effects resulting from excessive drought in England, it will be found that the latter largely prevail. In fact, it is only necessary to observe the effects which have followed the recent wet weather to recognise the fact that rain has a forcing power, the very diminished supply of which at the due season cannot fail to have seriously injurious effects. In various parts of England we see evidences of the action of such a power during the present autumn in the blossoming of trees, in the flowering of primroses and other spring plants, in rich growths of fungi, and in various other ways. It cannot be doubted that there is here a comparative waste of powers which, expended in due season, would have produced valuable results.
The modern theories of the correlation of force suffice to show how enormous a loss a country sufferswhen there is a failure in the supply of rain, or when that supply comes out of its due season. When we consider rain in connection with the causes to which it is due, we begin to recognise the enormous amount of power of which the ordinary rainfall of a country is the representative; and we can well understand how it is that ‘the clouds drop fatness on the earth.’
The sun’s heat is, of course, the main agent—we may almost say the only agent—in supplying the rainfall of a country. The process of evaporation carried on over large portions of the ocean’s surface is continually storing up enormous masses of water in the form of invisible aqueous vapour, ready to be transformed into cloud, then wafted for hundreds of miles across seas and continents, to be finally precipitated over this or that country, according to the conditions which determine the downfall of rain. These processes do not appear, at first sight, indicative of any very great expenditure of force, yet in reality the force-equivalent of the rain-supply of England alone for a single year is something positively startling. It has been calculated that the amount of heat required to evaporate a quantity of water which would cover an area of 100 square miles to a depth of one inch would be equal to the heat which would be produced by the combustion of half a million tons of coals. The amount of force of which this consumption of heat would be the equivalent corresponds to that which would be required to raise a weight of upwards of one thousand millions of tons to a height of one mile. Now, when we rememberthat the area of Great Britain and Ireland is about 120,000 square miles, and that the annual rainfall averages about 25 inches, we see that the force-equivalent of the rainfall is enormous. All the coal which could be raised from our English coal mines in hundreds of years would not give out heat enough to produce England’s rain-supply for a single year. When to this consideration we add the circumstance that the force of rain produces bad as well as good effects—the former when the rain falls at undue seasons or in an irregular manner, the latter only when the rainfall is distributed in the usual manner among the seasons—we see that an important loss accrues to a country in such exceptional years as the present.
There are few subjects more interesting than those depending on the correlation of physical forces; and we may add that there are few the study of which bears more largely on questions of agricultural and commercial economy. It is only of late years that the silent forces of nature—forces continually in action, but which are too apt to pass unnoticed and unrecognised—have taken their due place in scientific inquiry. Strangely enough, the subject has been found to have at once a most practical bearing on business relations, and an aspect more strikingly poetical than any other subject, perhaps, which men of science have ever taken in hand to investigate. We see the ordinary processes of Nature, as they are termed, taking their place in the workshop of modern wealth, and at the same timeexhibited in a hundred striking and interesting physical relations. What, for instance, can be stranger or more poetical than the contrast which Professor Tyndall has instituted between that old friend of the agriculturist—the wintry snow-flake—and the wild scenery of the Alps? ‘I have seen,’ he says, ‘the wild stone-avalanches of the Alps, which smoke and thunder down the declivities with a vehemence almost sufficient to stun the observer. I have also seen snow-flakes descending so softly as not to hurt the fragile spangles of which they were composed; yet to produce from aqueous vapour a quantity which a child could carry of that tender material demands an exertion of energy competent to gather up the shattered blocks of the largest stone-avalanche I have ever seen, and pitch them to twice the height from which they fell.’
I may point out in this place the important connection which exists between the rainfall of a country and the amount of forest land. I notice that in parts of America attention is being paid—with markedly good results—to the influence of forests in encouraging rainfall. We have here an instance in which cause and effect are interchangeable. Rain encourages the growth of an abundant vegetation, and abundant vegetation in turn tends to produce a state of the superincumbent atmosphere which encourages the precipitation of rain. The consequence is, that it is very necessary to check, before it is too late, the processes which lead to the gradual destruction of forests. If these processes are continued until the climate hasbecome excessively dry, it is almost impossible to remedy the mischief, simply because the want of moisture is destructive to the trees which may be planted to encourage rainfall. Thus there are few processes more difficult (as has been found by experience in parts of Spain and elsewhere) than the change of an arid region into a vegetation-covered district. In fact, if the region is one of great extent, the attempt to effect such a change is a perfectly hopeless one. On the other hand, the contrary process—that is, the attempt to change a climate which is too moist into one of less humidity—is in general not attended with much difficulty. A judicious system of clearing nearly always leads to the desired result.
The dryness of the past year has not been due to the want of moisture in the air, nor to the exceptionally unclouded condition of our skies. I believe that, on the whole, the skies have been rather more cloudy than usual this year. The fact that so little dew has fallen is a sufficient proof that the nights have been on the whole more cloudy than usual, since, as is well known, the presence of clouds, by checking the radiation of the earth’s heat, prevents (or at least diminishes) the formation of dew. The fact would seem to be that the westerly and south-westerly winds which usually blow over England during a considerable part of the year, bringing with them large quantities of aqueous vapour from above the great Gulf Stream, have this year blown somewhat higher than usual. Why this should be it is not very easy to say. The height ofthe vapour-laden winds is usually supposed to depend on the heat of the weather. In summer, for instance, the clouds range higher, and therefore travel farther inland before they fall in rain. In winter, on the contrary, they travel low, and hence the rain falls more freely in the western than in the eastern counties during winter. A similar relation prevails in the Scandinavian peninsula—Norway receiving more rain in winter than in summer, while Sweden receives more rain in summer than in winter. But this summer the rain-clouds have blown so much higher than usual as to pass beyond England altogether. Possibly we may find an explanation in the fact that before reaching our shores at all the clouds were relieved by heavy rainfalls—probably due to some exceptional electrical relations—over parts of the Atlantic Ocean. It is stated that the steam-ships from America this summer were, in many instances, drenched by heavy showers until they neared the coasts of England.
(From theDaily News, October 5, 1868.)
Yesterday morning a remarkably fine fall of snow-stars took place over many parts of London. The crystals were larger and more perfectly formed than is commonly the case in our latitudes, where the conditions requisite for the formation of these beautiful objects are less perfectly fulfilled than in more northerlyregions. Many forms were to be noticed which the researches of Scoresby, Glaisher, and Lowe have shown to be somewhat uncommon.
Some of my readers will perhaps be surprised to learn that no less than 1,000 different kinds of snow-crystals have been noticed by the observers named above, and that a large proportion of them have been figured and described. The patterns are of wonderful beauty. A strange circumstance connected with these objects is the fact that for the most part they are found, on a close examination, to be formed of minute coloured crystals—some red, some green, others blue or purple. In fact, all the colours of the rainbow are to be seen in the delicate tracery of these fine hexagonal stars. So that in the perfect whiteness of the driven snow we have an illustration of the well-known fact that the colours of the rainbow combine to form the purest white. For the common snow-flake is formed of a large number of such tiny crystals as were falling yesterday; though their beauty is destroyed in the snow-flake, through the effects of collision and partial melting. It may not be very commonly known that ordinary ice, also, is composed of a combination of crystals presenting all the regularity of formation seen in the snow-crystals. This would scarcely be believed by anyone who examined a rough mass of ice taken from the surface of a frozen lake. Yet, if a slice be cut from the mass and placed in the sun’s light, or before a fire, the beautiful phenomena called ice-flowers make their appearance.‘A fairy seems to have breathed upon the ice, and caused transparent flowers of exquisite beauty suddenly to blossom in myriads within it.’
When we remember that the enormous icebergs of the Arctic and Antarctic seas, the snow-caps which crown the Alps and Andes and Himalayas, and the glaciers which urge their way with resistless force down the mountain valleys, are all made up of these delicate and beautiful snow-flowers, we are struck with the force of the strange contrasts which Nature presents to our contemplation. We may say of the snow-crystals what Tennyson said of the small sea-shell. Each snow-star is