Fig. 162—Fasten ceiling on lower story by sliding the centre division inside, and the two side divisions outside, the wall.Fig.162—Fasten ceiling on lower story by sliding the centre division inside, and the two side divisions outside, the wall.Fig. 163—Middle card for wall of second story.Fig.163—Middle card for wall of second story.
Fig. 162—Fasten ceiling on lower story by sliding the centre division inside, and the two side divisions outside, the wall.Fig.162—Fasten ceiling on lower story by sliding the centre division inside, and the two side divisions outside, the wall.
Fig. 163—Middle card for wall of second story.Fig.163—Middle card for wall of second story.
Carefully lift the second story and adjust it squarely and evenly on top of the first story, as in the photograph (Fig. 156).
Fig. 164—Walls for second story. Details of the visiting-card houses.Fig.164—Walls for second story. Details of the visiting-card houses.
Make the projecting roof of the second story of four strips of four cards each. Run the strips from side to side of the house and lap them a trifle, one over the other. The roof is merely laid on and is supported by the walls.
The peak is made of two strips of two cards each, and slid into a base of one strip of three cards by means of long slits. At the apex the cards are also fastened together with long slits.
The little summer-house inFig. 156has each of the four sides made of one card. The cards are fastened togetherby means of long slits. A doorway opening is cut in the front wall, much in the same manner as the windows are cut in the large house, only in this case the incision is made directly on the lower edge of the card, and, when finished, the lower halfof the door is cut off. The door is bent outward and forms a little canopy for the open doorway, as in the photograph.
Make the roof of two strips of cards of two cards each by merely laying the strips across the top opening of the house.
Fasten the ends of the two cards together with long slits to form the apex of the peak, and bend the bottom ends of the cards out flat, so the peak will stand steady on the roof.
If the children would like to keep the buildings intact to play with at any future time, as they build up the structures let them add a little glue or strong paste here and there to hold the various parts firmly together. The toys will then last a long time and stand considerable wear.
Tissue-paper trees in spools furnish the foliage in the photograph, while a miniature flag, with its pole supported in an empty spool, shows the nation to which the country belongs.
Cut little paper people from cardboard and place them on the grounds.
A fine setting for the scene can be made by tacking a piece of green canton flannel, fleecy side uppermost, taut over a pastry board, or pinning it on a piece of the light-weight patent straw pasteboard.
The fleecy green gives the appearance of grass, and when the glistening white buildings are set down on the grass among the trees with Old Glory floating overhead, and gaily dressed dolls in the foreground, the children will be delighted with the scene; nor will the appreciation be confined to the children, for older people will also enjoy it.
Fig. 165—Pagoda.Fig.165—Pagoda.
inFig. 165is extremely easy to build. Make the base square of four cards fastened together with long slits. On this foundation build up one card on the front and one on the back, by cutting two short slits on the lower edge of thelengthwise bottom of the cards, one slit near each end (Fig. 166), and sliding one card across the front on the uncut top edges of the sides of the foundation by means of the slits; then fastening the other card across the back from side to side in like manner. On top of these two cards build two more, reaching across the sides from front to back. Continue building in this way until the pagoda is ten stories high. The projections along the sides are made of two long narrow cards each, the two cards fastened together at the centre likeFig. 158; then the ends are bent up and the strip laid across from side to side on the top edge of the two side cards which form every other story. The apex roof is built of two cards with the top edges fastened together, tent-like, by means of long slits, on a foundation strip of two cards bent up at the ends.
Fig. 166—Cut one slit near each end.Fig.166—Cut one slit near each end.
Fig. 167—Card furniture.Fig.167—Card furniture.
inFig. 167is also made of visiting cards. Take two long, narrow cards, place them together, and about one-third the distance from one end of the double layer cut a slit through the two cards, extending it a little more than half-way across the cards; then take the cards apart and slide them into each other. Be sure that the two short ends of the cards come together. Open out the two short ends tent-fashion, and bend down one of the long ends across its centre for the seat, leaving the other long end erect to form the back of the chair for the paper doll (Fig. 167). Make several chairs; then make the dressing-table. Place two long cards evenly together and cut a slash through and more than half-way across the centre of the two cards. Slide the cards together, making an X. Bend out the top and bottom ends of the Xflat. For the top of the table select a rather large card, but not too wide. Cut one slash on each side of the centre of one of the lengthwise edges. This will make three divisions. Cut corresponding slashes, but much deeper, in one of the short ends of a smaller card, which is to be the mirror. Trim off the end of the middle division in the table top and slide the two cards together, bringing the B and B divisions (Fig. 157) of the mirror well forward, so that the top of the table extends back beyond the mirror; then bend up the B and B divisions of the mirror, as in the photograph. Place the top with the mirror attached on the X, allowing the X to come back directly under the mirror in order that the top may be steady. If you paste a piece of silver paper or tinfoil well smoothed out on the card for the mirror, the dressing-table will, from a little distance, appear quite realistic.
Thebest framework for a newspaper wigwam can be made of long-handled feather dusters, but long-handled brushes, or poles of any kind you may happen to have, will answer the purpose; all that is necessary is something you can make into a framework similar toFig. 168. Tie your poles together at the top and spread them out at the base, tent-fashion.
Make the
of six large double sheets of newspaper pasted together.
Fig. 168—Framework for wigwam.Fig.168—Framework for wigwam.
Only three poles will be needed when the covering is of newspaper, but if you do not happen to have enough newspapers on hand for the entire outfit of tepees and costumes, you can use a white muslin sheet for the wigwam, in which case four poles will be needed (Fig. 169). The sheet, not being stiff like the paper, requires more supports to make it stand out sufficiently. Should it be inclined to fall in betweenthe poles, pull it out a little and lay a book over the edge which lies on the floor, as a weight, to keep the sheet in place.
Fig. 169—Look at our newspaper Indian costumes. We are playing Indians.Fig.169—Look at our newspaper Indian costumes. We are playing Indians.
If you would like the wigwam decorated in real Indian fashion, cut out large colored paper pictures and paste them around the lower part of the wigwam, forming a band of pictures. Be the covering either cloth or paper, it will look well decorated, but the covering must be taken off and the pictures pasted on. The covering should then be adjusted over the poles. One great beauty and attraction of thisnewspaper Indian material is that effective results can be produced quickly and with little work.
Make
of newspaper, cut like the pattern (Fig. 170). For a small pair the paper should measure fifteen inches in length and three and a half inches in width; larger sizes require larger paper.
Fig. 170—Cut moccasins this way.Fig.170—Cut moccasins this way.
Fringe the central portion of the longest edge according to the fringe lines onFig. 170. Cut the two boundary lines of fringe, A and A, up to the dotted line; then bend down all dotted lines. Bring the two ends together, allowing the fringe to come on the outside, and fit the point B over the other point B. This finishes the newspaper moccasin (Fig. 171).
Fig. 171—The newspaper moccasin.Fig.171—The newspaper moccasin.
Make
of two newspapers pasted together along the shortest edge, then folded lengthwise through the centre, and the two lower loose ends cut into a deep fringe. This skirt needs no belt; it should be simply fastened together at the back over the ordinary dress with safety-pins.
Use one sheet of paper for the little fringed sacque. Allow the paper to remain folded along the white central band, and fold the double layers crosswise through the centre, making four thicknesses. Cut an opening for the head according to dotted line C (Fig. 172). Fringe the sides along dotted line D, as shown in diagram (Fig. 172).
Unfold carefully, that the paper may not tear, and after cutting a slit from the neck partially down the centre of the front, you will haveFig. 173. If you wish to make the garment less liable to tear, paste narrow strips of muslin on the under side of the sacque, around the neck, down each side of the slit, and at the head of the fringe.
Fig. 172—Newspaper folded ready for making little squaw's sacque.Fig.172—Newspaper folded ready for making little squaw's sacque.Fig. 173—Little squaw's newspaper sacque.Fig.173—Little squaw's newspaper sacque.
Fig. 172—Newspaper folded ready for making little squaw's sacque.Fig.172—Newspaper folded ready for making little squaw's sacque.
Fig. 173—Little squaw's newspaper sacque.Fig.173—Little squaw's newspaper sacque.
From a folded piece of newspaper cut the little squaw a head-dress (Fig. 174). Let the top of the feather come on the fold of the paper. Turn over and crease down the straight edge of the band at the dotted line (Fig. 174), making four layers.
Fig. 174—Head-dress.Fig.174—Head-dress.
Crown the little girl with the head-dress, pinning the ends together at the back with a safety-pin. Slip the moccasins on her feet, fastening them to the toe of the shoe with a little stiff paste, and yourcharming little squaw will be ready to play in the wigwam (Fig. 175).
Older girls can make the Indian costume from the same patterns by cutting them larger.
The Indian boy needs a lot of fringed newspaper for his costume. Cut folded strips to make the fringe thick and in two layers. Fold down the solid edge of one strip and with safety-pins fasten the fold along the outside line of the boy's trousers and stockings, as in the photograph (Fig. 176). Trim the other trouser leg and stocking in the same manner.
Fig. 175—Charming little squaw.Fig.175—Charming little squaw.Fig. 176—Young Indian chief.Fig.176—Young Indian chief.
Fig. 175—Charming little squaw.Fig.175—Charming little squaw.
Fig. 176—Young Indian chief.Fig.176—Young Indian chief.
Cut a generous strip of double-layer fringe to fasten entirely around the boy's shoulders, extending across both back and chest. Reinforce the top edge of the band of fringe, and along the line where the solid paper meets the fringe, with strips of muslin, pasted on, to prevent tearing.
For the chief's
cut a folded strip of newspaper long enough to encircle the boy's head and allow for a lap—twenty-two inches will probably be correct. Make the strip six inches wide; the tops of the feathers must be along the folded edge. Let the feathers be fully four inches high, and allow a space of one inch on the band at the base of each feather, F (Fig. 177). The widest part of each feather should be one and three-quarters inches. Make the band four thicknesses by folding it over at the dotted line; then crease each separate feather on the right side lengthwise, through the centre, to stiffen them and insure their standing erect. Cut another long strip of feathers in the same way, to fall from the head down the back. On this strip paste the front and back of each feather together at its base. Also paste together lengthwise the upper portion of the band, and, instead of folding as you did the first band, separate and open out its two lower lengthwise halves. Crease them backward away from each other, so that the feathers may stand erect and the band be at right angles on each side of the feathers (Fig. 178).
Fig. 177—Newspaper cut for chief's head-dress.Fig.177—Newspaper cut for chief's head-dress.Fig. 178—Separate and open out the lower lengthwise halves of the head-dress which falls down the back.Fig.178—Separate and open out the lower lengthwise halves of the head-dress which falls down the back.
Fig. 177—Newspaper cut for chief's head-dress.Fig.177—Newspaper cut for chief's head-dress.
Fig. 178—Separate and open out the lower lengthwise halves of the head-dress which falls down the back.Fig.178—Separate and open out the lower lengthwise halves of the head-dress which falls down the back.
The open base of the band lying against the boy's back causes the feathers to stand out and not fall flat and spoil theeffect, as they otherwise might do. The photograph of the boy chieftain standing was taken expressly that you might see exactly how the newspaper costume of the Indian brave should look.
Make the
of a strip of newspaper five inches wide and about thirty-two inches long. Hold one corner between your thumb and first finger and roll the paper as if you were making a lighter (Fig. 179). When you have rolled it to the opposite corner, E, remove your fingers and let the paper unroll. Smooth out the rolled corners until it springs back into a large roll about three-quarters of an inch in diameter (Fig. 180).
Fig. 179—Begin rolling paper strip for calumet this way.Fig.179—Begin rolling paper strip for calumet this way.Fig. 180—Continue rolling the paper.Fig.180—Continue rolling the paper.
Fig. 179—Begin rolling paper strip for calumet this way.Fig.179—Begin rolling paper strip for calumet this way.
Fig. 180—Continue rolling the paper.Fig.180—Continue rolling the paper.
When the corner roll is the right size, continue to roll the paper until a long round stick is formed (Fig. 181). Paste the loose end of the stick on the roll and cut both ends off even, as indicated by the dotted lines inFig. 181.
Fig. 181—Stick of rolled paper for calumet.Fig.181—Stick of rolled paper for calumet.
Bend the paper roll about six and a half inches from one end, and bring the bent portion over against and on top of the roll. Pin the fold down on the roll three inches from the bend; then turn up the open end to form the bowl of the pipe, which you must make stand erect should it seem inclined to lean (Fig. 182).
Fig. 182—Paper roll bent and pinned into a calumet.Fig.182—Paper roll bent and pinned into a calumet.
Fig. 183—The Christmas tree with home-made decorations.Fig.183—The Christmas tree with home-made decorations.Fig. 184—The Christmas star.Fig.184—The Christmas star.
Fig. 183—The Christmas tree with home-made decorations.Fig.183—The Christmas tree with home-made decorations.
Fig. 184—The Christmas star.Fig.184—The Christmas star.
Fig. 183is the photograph of a Christmas tree whose trimming is entirely home-made. The brilliant colors and shining gilt of the papers used, give a sparkle and life that are most captivating, and the ornaments are so easily made that the children themselves can do much toward decorating a tree in this manner.
At the top of the tree, shining above all other ornaments, is
(Fig. 184), and this is the way to make it:
From a piece of cardboard cut an oblong with the top and bottom edges five and a quarter inches long and the side edges just five inches long (Fig. 185). Now, exactly in the middle at the top edge, make a dot, A (Fig. 185); then on each side edge make a dot, BB (Fig. 185). On the bottom edge, one inch from each bottom corner, make the dots CC. With the aid of a ruler draw the lines connecting these points, as shown inFig. 185. This gives a perfect five-pointed star, five inches high. Cut the star out, cover its entire surface with a coat of paste, and lay over it a smooth piece of gilt paper, pressing out the fulness and creases. When the paste is dry, cut away the paper from the edges, and there will remain a gilt star, firm and stiff enough to stand up bravely.
Fig. 185—Draw the star like this.Fig.185—Draw the star like this.
But this is not all. There are to be a number of gold-tipped rays flaming out from the star to represent its spreading light. For these rays select ten broom straws with two prongs. Trim the prongs evenly, shorten the stems at the bottom, and spread the prongs apart (Fig. 186). Now, cut twenty strips of gold paper half an inch wide and a little over four inches long. Lay one strip down, cover the wrong side with paste, place three broom straws with their prongs resting on the paste side of the paper, and press anotherstrip of gold paper over the first, inclosing the tips of the straws. This will give a gold paper on both sides of the straws. Then, when the paste is dry, cut away the paper, leaving a gold triangle on the tip of each prong of each broom straw.Fig. 187shows one triangle cut out. Treat all of your broom-straw rays in this way, then cover with paste the centre of the wrong side of the star up to the points, lay two straws in place, the stems crossing, as inFig. 188, and over the stems press a short strip of white paper, like D (Fig. 188), pasting it down securely. Adjust the other rays between the points of the star, and fasten in place in the same manner.
Fig. 186—Place three broom straws on the paper.Fig.186—Place three broom straws on the paper.Fig. 187—One triangle cut out.Fig.187—One triangle cut out.
Fig. 186—Place three broom straws on the paper.Fig.186—Place three broom straws on the paper.
Fig. 187—One triangle cut out.Fig.187—One triangle cut out.
Fig. 188—Paste the straws on the star.Fig.188—Paste the straws on the star.
To hold the star upright, make a lighter from a strip of white writing-paper for a stem. Flatten the top of the lighter, cut it off evenly, and paste it on the back of the star between the two lower points, as inFig. 188. Over the stems of the broom straws and the end of the lighter paste a white paper lining that will reach part way up each point of the star. This lining should be madebefore the rays are pasted to the star, by laying the star on white paper, tracing around its edges with a pencil, cutting out the white paper star, and then clipping off about one inch of the points. The gold star will look likeFig. 184.
Not the least effective trimmings on the tree are the little
that hang by strings from the tips of the branches and dangle alluringly. They are of different sizes, and some are made of gilt, others of colored paper (Fig. 189).
Fig. 189—The Christmas bells that dangle alluringly.Fig.189—The Christmas bells that dangle alluringly.
For a bell three and a half inches high (a very good size), cut a strip of paper three and a half inches wide and seven inches long, curve it into the cone shape shown inFig. 190, and pin together. Cut off the point that laps over, according to the dotted line, also the point that laps under, leaving a little over half an inch for the final lap. Trim off the bottom points even with the shortest part of the bottom edge, as shown by the curved, dotted line, and you will haveFig. 191.Fig. 191opened out will give youFig. 192, which will be the pattern for other bells.
Fig. 190—Curve the paper into a cone.Fig.190—Curve the paper into a cone.Fig. 191—Trim off the bottom points.Fig.191—Trim off the bottom points.Fig. 192—The pattern of the bells.Fig.192—The pattern of the bells.
Fig. 190—Curve the paper into a cone.Fig.190—Curve the paper into a cone.
Fig. 191—Trim off the bottom points.Fig.191—Trim off the bottom points.
Fig. 192—The pattern of the bells.Fig.192—The pattern of the bells.
Fig. 193—Cut out two disks at one time.Fig.193—Cut out two disks at one time.
AsFig. 192lies flat on the table, run the paste brush along one side edge, making the coat of paste as wide as the lap is to be, then curve the bell into shape. Make the bottom edges meet evenly and press the paste-covered edge over the other side edge. Hold the finger inside the bell while you do this, to keep it from flattening.
The clapper is made of two round disks of gold paper with the string pasted between them. For the bell we are now making, the clapper should be almost one inch in diameter. Fold a piece of gilt paper and cut out the two disks at one time (Fig. 193). Cover the wrong side of one disk with paste, lay the end of a string across the middle (Fig. 194), and press the other disk on top. Both sides of the clapper will then be gilt. Hold the clapper up to the bell by thestring, so that half of the clapper is below the bottom edge of the bell; then, bringing the string close to the point at the top of the bell, run a pin through the string to mark the distance. Where the pin is, tie a knot, F (Fig. 194); this is to hold the clapper in its proper position. Thread the end of the string through the eye of a darning-needle and push the needle up through the point of the bell—the knot will keep the string from running up too far (Fig. 195). Allow eight or ten inches of string above the bell, so that it may be hung high or low, asdesired. A bell should never be tied close to a branch, but should hang down far enough to sway with every passing current of air. The long string also adds to the decorative effect.
Fig. 194—Paste the strings between the two disks.Fig.194—Paste the strings between the two disks.Fig. 195—The clapper in the bell.Fig.195—The clapper in the bell.
Fig. 194—Paste the strings between the two disks.Fig.194—Paste the strings between the two disks.
Fig. 195—The clapper in the bell.Fig.195—The clapper in the bell.
(Fig. 196) is another pretty ornament and is made with a few snips of the scissors.
Fig. 196—The frosty snow pocket.Fig.196—The frosty snow pocket.
Fig. 197—Fold the paper crosswise.Fig.197—Fold the paper crosswise.Fig. 198—Cut slits in the folded paper.Fig.198—Cut slits in the folded paper.
Fig. 197—Fold the paper crosswise.Fig.197—Fold the paper crosswise.
Fig. 198—Cut slits in the folded paper.Fig.198—Cut slits in the folded paper.
Cut a strip of white tissue-paper five and a half inches wide and twenty-two inches long. Fold the paper crosswise through the middle; then fold it again and again until your folded piece is one inch wide. The folds must always be across the paper from start to finish (Fig. 197). Now, cut slits in the folded paper, first a slit on one side, and then a slit on the other, as inFig. 198. Let the spaces between the slits be one-eighth of an inch wide, and cut each slit to within one-eighth of an inch of the edge. When this is done, carefully unfold the paper and spread it out flat, then lift the top edge with one hand, the bottom edge with the other, and gently pull the meshes apart. Gather the top edge into little plaits, and twist them together in a point; gather the bottom edge in the same way and twist that; then carefully pull the snow pocket out, and you will have a long, narrow bag of soft, white meshes. If it flares out too much, crush it together softly with your hand. Make a small gilt paper star and fasten a narrow strip of white tissue-paper to its top point. Open the bag, slip the star inside, and suspend it half-way from the top by pasting the end of the paper strip to the top of the bag. Make a loop of tissue-paper, fasten it to the top point of the bag, and then hang the snow pocket on the tree. The gold star gleaming through the frosty meshes is very pretty, but if you have several snow pockets, there need not be stars in all.
(Fig. 199) is not made of paper, but of delectable, sugary raisins. He is a funny fellow, and will delight the children.
Fig. 199—Jocko.Fig.199—Jocko.
Thread a clean, cotton string in a large darning-needle, then select three of your largest raisins for the body and a suitably shaped one for the head. There must be three raisins for each leg, one for each foot, and three for each arm. Tie a knot in the end of your string and, beginning with one foot, string on three raisins for one leg, then the three for the body, and, lastly, the one for the head. Tie a knot close to the top at the head and leave a long end to the string. Thread your needle again and string on the raisins for the other foot and leg, then run the needle up through the lowerraisin of the body, and fasten the second string to the first between the two body raisins.
Fig. 200—Jocko ready to be dressed.Fig.200—Jocko ready to be dressed.
Fig. 201—Jocko's hat.Fig.201—Jocko's hat.Fig. 202—Jocko's coat.Fig.202—Jocko's coat.Fig. 203—Jocko's skirt.Fig.203—Jocko's skirt.
Fig. 201—Jocko's hat.Fig.201—Jocko's hat.
Fig. 202—Jocko's coat.Fig.202—Jocko's coat.
Fig. 203—Jocko's skirt.Fig.203—Jocko's skirt.
String three raisins for one arm, run the needle through the middle of the top body raisin, where the shoulders should be, then string on the three raisins for the other arm and tie a knot at the end. Jocko is all right now, except that he is very limp. Put stiffening into his joints by running broom straws through his legs, body, and arms. Use a raisin stem for the tail, and fasten it on by pushing the largest end into the lowest body raisin. Make the eyes by running a short piece of broom straw through the head, allowing the ends to stand out a short distance in the place for the eyes. Remember a monkey's eyes are always close together, and they must be made so in order to look natural.
At this stage Jocko will resembleFig. 200; but he must have clothes and a hat to give the finishing touches and make him look like the monkeys the children are familiar with.Fig. 201is Jocko's hat,Fig. 202his coat, andFig. 203his little skirt.
Cut all of these from bright-colored cambric of a size to fit the monkey. Fold a piece of cambric for the coat, and cut it out as you would for a paper doll, with the fold at the top. The skirt and hat are circular. Cut a round hole in the middle of the skirt for the waist, and slit it down the back. This furnishes the costume.
Fig. 204—Bring the corners of the square together.Fig.204—Bring the corners of the square together.Fig. 205—Slit the triangle.Fig.205—Slit the triangle.Fig. 206—Opened out.Fig.206—Opened out.
Fig. 204—Bring the corners of the square together.Fig.204—Bring the corners of the square together.
Fig. 205—Slit the triangle.Fig.205—Slit the triangle.
Fig. 206—Opened out.Fig.206—Opened out.
Now, thread the end of the string from the top of Jocko's head into the darning-needle and run the needle through the middle of the hat (Fig. 200); then push the hat down on his head. Fit the skirt around Jocko's waist, and fasten it at the back with needle and thread; then put on his jacket and fasten that in front. It is unnecessary to say that Jocko is good to eat.