THELAWS AND CUSTOMSOFJOURNEYMEN HATTERS.
Toenterfullyinto the various regulations and forms that the "trade" have, from time to time, instituted and acted upon, would of itself fill a volume; all that can be done then in this small work will be to give the best possible outline of such matters as are most likely to interest those who may wish for information on the subject. The most important laws of this trade are these:-
First-No man shall work as amakerorfinisher, unless he has served an apprenticeship of seven years to what is called a "fair master."
Second-To be a fair master, and entitled, according to the rules of the trade, to take an apprentice, he must have manufactured hisown Hats, seven years prior to thetaking, or otherwise have served a fair seven years' apprenticeship himself to the trade.
Third-Whether there be one, two, or more in a manufacturing firm, that firm are not to have more than two apprentices at one time.
Fourth-There are a number of masters who do not manufacture their own "stuff," but are employed by "Great Houses," who, although they have a right, by law, to take apprentices, yet those apprentices, by reason of their masters not working theirown materials, are never admitted to stand by the side offair men, on which account they must ever continuefoul, and debarred of the usual privileges, or submit to asecondapprenticeship. This is a case that frequently occurs; indeed it is no uncommon thing to see a man with a wife and half a dozen children, himself near thirty years old, serving a second apprenticeship for a fair time; the hardship of this must be admitted, inasmuch as it is punishing a man for a fault he never committed.
Fifth-Afoul manis one that has not served his apprenticeship agreeably to the rule of the trade, or has been guilty of some act detrimental to thesupposedinterests of the journeymen in general. These are called "KNOBSTICKS."
Sixth-A fair man has the privilege of what is called "turns upon tramp," that is, if he cannot obtain work in the town where he resides, or has an inclination totravel, he may journey ortrampto the next; should any of thefraternitybe there, and he wishes to get "shopped" he is "asked for" by one in that factory, (no man being allowed to ask for himself), if unsuccessful, there are two night's lodging for him, two pots of strong beer, bread and cheese, and a shilling or two to forward him to the next town. Themoney turnin London is five shillings, but no man is entitled to asecondturn in one place, until after the expiration of six months from his receiving the first.
Seventh-If a journeyman has, by his own act, becomefoul, nothing can absolve him but submitting to afine, and this is measured according to the offence, which, in someheinouscases, such as "creeping" into favour with the master, or going to work when all the rest have struck for wages, is as high as ten guineas.
There are three distinct courts for the examination and punishment of offenders. Thefirst, or High Court ofCongress, is a sort of general assembly, composed of either Makers or Finishers, just as their separate interests may be concerned; but on all joint questions these parties form ajunction. In this court matters of importance only are discussed; as, for instance, theadvance of prices, the abrogation of old laws, and the making of new ones, under theoperationof which, it sometimes happens that both men and masters, as well as the law of the land, are alike the victims. Thefineslevied in this court are appropriated to special and "STRIKING" purposes, often tending to produce a "COMBINATION" of interesting effects. The masters too are not wholly exempt from these pretty little combinations, which, however, do not always realize or carry their intendedpoint; this is owing (it is thought) to the vast affection journeymen bear towards their employers; indeed so much so, that they cannot bear thelattershould "LOWER" themselves.
There is a court below this, which is formed by taking one or two men from the sevennearestshops. Their sitting, if notpublic, is sure to be in apublic-house, president,Sir John Barleycorn. The matters chiefly brought here are those that relate to the misconduct of journeymen towards each other in the same factory, and which cannot be settled where they originated. This is called "DOZENING," and their power ofFINEextends to two guineas, which is drank in good old stout by the whole seven shops; but as alldrysubjects are prohibited in this tribune, the extent of fine greatly depends on the state of the weather; so that if it be a sultry summer's day, the punishment of an offender is in proportion to thesun's heat.
The third and lowestcourtis an assembly of shop-mates only, this meeting is called a "GARRET MATCH," and may be demanded for the punishment of an aggressor, by any aggrieved man in a factory. Power of fine from two to ten shillings.
I have before stated that there are in this tradefoulmen; in point of number they constitute about one-sixth part of the whole; but their earnings, or price of labour is the same as the fair trade.
A journeyman finisher in full work will earn, on an average, from three to four pounds a-week; while, on the contrary, a maker cannot get more thanfifty shillings. This is a subject of much jealousy and discontent; nor is it likely to be otherwise, unless the latter can raise himself to an equality with the former; against this there are many obstacles, one of which is, theincreasingfoul trade, who would continue working, even though the fair men had "struck." Another is, that they could never obtain the co-operation of the finishers, who, being amply paid themselves, think it best to leave well alone.
These are theprincipal regulationswhich govern journeymen hatters, whether they have a good or a bad tendency is questionable; there are many in thetradewho decidedly condemn them, giving as their reasons, that they encourage idleness, tippling, and endless squabbles.Idleness-inasmuch as when men are summoned to discuss the most trifling matters, even though the meeting be at five o'clock in the morning, they seldom feeldisposedto return to their work that day.Tippling-for the reason that, asfinesare mostly spent indrink, the conviction of a supposed offender is generallythirstedafter; but as the quantum levied seldom suffices, all further supplies for the remainder of the day are met by individual subscription. In these cases there is no show of niggardliness, as every succeeding gallon of the "sparkling entire," is but aninternalmessenger, bearing the glad tidings of another to come.Squabbles, because it is natural, when thedesirefor a thing is once created, and the gratification of that desire (where nothing of criminality attaches) can be indulged, by having recourse to a little contrivance, that the opportunity of so doing should be more frequentlymade, than suffered to approach accidentally; which will account for thetrifling magnitudesthat are allowed to agitate shops and factories in general. The arguments infavourof these laws are, that without them, apprentices would be careless in serving out theirtime, the trade over-run with bad workmen, hats greatly deteriorated in the manufacture, the excellence of which is their chief recommendation in a foreign market, and the surest guarantee of the master's profits at home.
Having given thecontendingopinions, in reference to the laws of this trade, I shall say a word or two concerning the shape, and manner of placing a hat on the head.