Square crown for wire frame—
Straighten the brace wire and cut four sticks or pieces long enough to reach from the base of the crown at the front up over the proposed crown to the base of the crown at the back, allowing eight inches for finishing. Cut and join a small circle of brace wire—about three inches in diameter—for the crown top. Lay the four sticks across this circle dividing it into eight equal sections as at the beginning of the brim, and join to the sticks with tie wire. Cut a piece of brace wire one inch smaller than the headsize wire. Lap the ends and tie this wire. Elongate slightly. Join to the sticks outside of the small circle. Keep all lapped ends of circles on the center back spoke. Bend spokes downoverthis circle, then measure down from this circle for the height of crown and mark on spokes with pencil. Be very accurate.
Base wire for crown—
Measure and cut a length of brace wire one-half inch longer than for the headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch and join with tie wire. The base wire of any separate crown must be large enough to fit over the headsize wire on the brim. Place thiscircle, after having shaped it like the headsize wire, on the inside of the spokes at the point marked, beginning at the center back, and finish as any edge wire by twisting the ends of the spokes once and a half around the wire. Press the wires down tight with the pliers. Cut the ends off close and press flat with the jaws of the pliers. Many more circles may be added and tied on with tie wire if desired; also more spokes may be added. This would be desirable if the frame is to be covered with braid, or if used for blocking fabric for frames.
Transparent hats—
If a wire frame is to be covered with thin material, great care and thought should be given to the frame, for it then forms part of the design of the hat. A finer wire is sometimes used in this case, or a beautiful frame may be made for thin materials by using a satin-covered cable wire, and using as few wires as possible. It may seem advisable after a wire frame is made to cut away some of the wires.
A roundcrown is one which rounds from tip to base. First straighten, measure, and cut four sticks of brace wire, as for square crown, of the ordinary length, allowing for finishing. Cut and join the ends of a short piece of brace wire five or six inches long. This makes a small circle for the top of the crown. Begin by tying the sticks across this circle under it, dividing it into halves, quarters, and eighths, being careful that the divisions are made accurately and that the sticks extend an equal length from the circle. Keep these wiresflatacross this circle. The sticks may now be curved down. It is sometimes found easier to attach the base wire at this point before adding other circles.
FANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAIDFANCY CROWN-TIP OF BRAID
ROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USEDROLLING WIRE BRIM. EIGHT SPOKES MORE MAY BE USED AND AS MANY CIRCLES AS WISHED, ACCORDING TO THE COVERING USED
ROUND CROWN OF WIREROUND CROWN OF WIRE
Base wire—
Cut a piece of brace wire one-half inch longer than the wire used for the headsize wire. Lap the ends one inch. Make this the same shape as the headsize wire and test the size by trying it on overthe headsize wire on the brim for which the crown is made. An ordinary height for a round crown would be seven inches from tip to base wire, but to be safe, it is always better to measure the head. Sometimes, on account of an abundance of hair or a high coiffure, a greater height is needed. If the base wire is elongated to fit the head, the side measurement from the tip to the base of the crown will be found shorter than from the tip to the front and the back. It will be most helpful to take an old crown which has an elongated headsize and either measure it and work from the measures or else work over it.
The crown must be even at the bottom when finished, and when placed upon the table must rest evenly. The base wire may be tied with tie wire on the front and back spokes and on each side spoke until the circles between it and the crown tip are added. It will then be found easy to adjust it before finishing off the wires; i.e., the crown may be made higher or lower.
Circles or hoops—
Add three circles of wire between the base wire and the small circle at the top. The first circle just above the base wire should be of the same size. Keepall wire laps at the back. The other two circles will conform to the shape of the crown and will be found to be a little further apart at the front and back than at the sides.
To finish the base of the crown—
The spokes of the crown may now be turned out sharply where the base wire is to be fastened and finished off the same as the edge wire on the brim.
A shaped wire frame made in one piece—
The simplest wire frame which is shaped at all is the mushroom shape or one that droops a little. Before beginning this hat it will be found easier to have a pattern for the brim, but it will not be necessary to make a pattern for the crown, which may be either round or square, and for which directions have already been given.
Pattern for brim—
Make a pattern of manila paper for the brim the same as for a fabric shape, following the same directions. It may droop only a very little or fit quite close. In either case the method is the same.
Pin the headsize wire on this pattern and try on to shape. Mark on the wire at the point where the creases touch the wire. It is important not to hurry at this point. Make many patterns and then choose the most becoming one. After the pattern is perfected, crease it sharply the same as in the sailor brim. Take all the measurements from this pattern and use them in marking the wires. This brim pattern is not needed until the crown has been made. In making a wire frame in one piece, we begin at the top of the crown and work down.
Crown—
Measure four sticks as for the crown in the preceding lesson, plus the width of the brim, plus six inches for finishing. This is ample to finish both ends of wire, but on account of the ends easily becoming frayed it is better to have a generous allowance. Begin at the crown tip and work down until ready for the headsize wire. The last wire is or should be of the same size as the regular headsize wire. Place the lap of the headsize wire on the back spoke of the crown and join by twisting the spokes once and a half around. Join the front and remaining spokes in the same way, being carefulto join where the wire was marked at the creases on the pattern.
Brim—
We are now ready to make use of the measurements taken from the pattern. Mark the length of each spoke with a pencil; the distance they are to be apart should be marked on the edge wire. These measurements are taken from the pattern. Finish the edge the same as the sailor brim. Add as many circles between the edge wire and the headsize wire as desired.
We have now made in wire the first variation from a perfectly flat brim. Always make a pattern before making a wire frame except when copying and then measurements may be taken from the hat to be copied. Here are some of the reasons why the pattern is important: first, it may be tried on and this helps to decide if the style is becoming, before working it out in wire; second, the position of the wires may be determined and marked on the paper pattern; third, the more work done from a paper pattern the easier it will be to copy; fourth, it trains the eye, thus making free-hand work much easier.
A rolling brim—
Whether the hat is made in one piece or with a separate brim, the same method is used. First, as always, the paper pattern. If the brim is to roll closely on one side and much higher than on the other, extra wires will be needed to fill the space. The place for these may be determined on the paper pattern. They may go all the way around, being brought more closely together on the low side or only part way around as in the illustration.
Wire frame making requires much patience and practice. It is an art just as all millinery is an art. Lines are all important. Because of this I urge much pattern making. Even though one may not have the fundamental principles of art, something really good often develops and we find we have built better than we knew. It stimulates originality, but we must work withoutfear.
To color wire frames—
Wires come in both black and white. A white frame may be colored to match any sheer fabric used for its covering. It will be found to be more simple to color the frame after it is made. Any of the cold or soap dyes may be used. If these are notavailable, a piece of velveteen soaked in alcohol and rubbed on the frame will give of its color sufficiently to tint the wire. Crêpe paper may also be used, or water-color paints. Rouge may be used effectively if moistened. There are also gold and silver wires which may be used for frames when desired, and which will add to the beauty of the design. If they cannot be purchased, a frame of white wire may be gilded by using liquid gilt, applying it to the frame with a small brush.
Halo hat brims—
Halo brims may be made from any fabric, but to be effective the material should be sheer. Malines, nets, georgette crêpe, or chiffon are all used to good effect in making this style of hat. Good-looking halo brims have been made from old georgette waists, using the back for the brim and the front and sleeves for the crown.
Only two wires are used in making this brim, the edge wire and the headsize wire. The size of the brim is to be determined and then a hoop of sprung wire cut just the length of the circumference of the brim. This wire is uncovered; the ends just meet and are joined by the use of a little clamp, the endsbeing inserted and pressed down with the jaws of the pliers.
Place the material from which the brim is to be made upon a flat surface. If of maline, several thicknesses may be used. Fasten this material down to the table slightly with pins or thumb tacks. Lay a circle of sprung wire on the material and pin in place. Begin by pinning the back, front, and then each side, being careful not to pull the wire out of shape. Take the work up and pin the material closely all around the edge. Cut off, allowing one-quarter of an inch to turn over the wire. Sew to the wire closely with an overcasting stitch or with a running stitch just inside of the wire. The edge may be bound with a fold of the same material, a fold of satin or one row of braid.
Headsize wire for halo brim—
This headsize wire is made of frame wire. First measure, then cut, join ends, and shape as for any hat. Lay the headsize wire on the material, having the joining at the back. The front and the back of the brim, if of equal width, will be somewhat narrower than the side because of the elongated headsize wire; however, the headsize wire may be placedon the brim in any position desired. Pin in place and sew with an overcasting stitch. Trim the material inside the headsize wire, leaving an extension of one-quarter of an inch to turn over; it will be found necessary to sew this down over the wire, making the edge more secure.
Another method of making a halo brim is accomplished by cutting a piece of material on the bias, twice as wide as the brim and as long as the circumference. Stretch this piece of material, then pin the center of the strip over the edge wire, gather the raw edges to fit the headsize wire and sew in place. This method does not make a smooth brim, but is more quickly made. When two thicknesses of sheer material are used for halo brims a very pretty effect is obtained by placing flat flowers, petals of flowers, or feathers between the two materials.
Crown for halo brim—
This may be very sheer, although a halo brim may be used on a braid or satin crown if desired. A wire crown for a halo brim usually consists of a mere collar of frame wire several inches high. This is sewed to the headsize wire. The coveringfor the crown is usually made in the shape of a circle about fourteen inches in diameter, with the same number of thicknesses as the brim. Gather one-quarter of an inch from the edge, adjust fullness and sew to the headsize wire. The height of the crown depends upon the style of hair dressing. Place a band of the same material as the crown, or a narrow ribbon, around the base of the crown for trimming and to conceal the wires. A wired bow of the sheer material may be used very effectively. (Seechapter on “Bows.”)
To cover with braid—
Greatcare and patience must be exercised in covering a hat with straw braid. The lines which are to be emphasized should be carefully studied, as there are several methods used in laying the braid on the frames. (Seeillustration.)
The stitch used for sewing braid is always the same—a very short stitch on the right side, and a stitch one-quarter of an inch long on the wrong side. The thread must not be pulled too tight, or the position of the stitches may be seen; also always match the thread to the straw. Straw braid may be sewed to a willow, buckram, neteen, or crinoline frame except when averysoft hat is desired; it may then be sewed and shaped over a wire or buckram frame, but not on to it, as it is to be removed from the frame after sewing; or, if the braid is coarse, it may be sewed to a wire frame which has been previously covered with crinoline or mull. (Seeillustration.)
ONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN PLACEONE METHOD OF STARTING THE BRAID ON CROWN AND SEWING IN PLACE
Many hats have a brim faced with straw, while afabric is used on top. In this case the braid must be put on first in order that the stitches may be taken through the brim, which the fabric on top will cover.
To pin in place on the frame—
Place the outer edge of the straw even with the outer edge of the brim, beginning at the center back, allowing three inches to extend to the right. Pin in place and baste all the way around until the center back is reached. Curve the second row gradually up from the center back; do not make an abrupt curve, until the correct lap is reached, usually one-eighth of an inch. There will be found a thread at the edge of most braids which may be pulled up to take out the extra fullness when sewed on a curve. The outside edge of the first row must be left free for the edge of the fabric, which covers the other side, to be slipped under. Do not begin sewing until the second row is basted in place.
To sew—
Bring the needle through the edge of the braid at the lap from the under side and take a tiny stitch, stabbing the needle through the braid and the buckram; the small stitch on the right side will be hiddenif the thread is not pulled too tight. Take a stitch on the wrong side from one-quarter to one-half an inch in length, depending upon the width and quality of the braid. Continue basting and sewing the braid until the headsize is reached and the braid extends up above the headsize wire one inch. If the brim is wider at some points than at others, the wider side must be filled in with short strips following the same curve, being careful that the ends are left long enough to extend up beyond the headsize wire one inch. When the brim is very much wider at some points, short pieces of braid may be worked in at intervals as the braid is sewed; this would not make such an abrupt curve, and the general lines of the braid would be more pleasing.
When one side of the brim is to be covered with fabric, fit this to the brim, baste at the headsize wire and cut the edge, allowing one-quarter of an inch to lap over the edge. Remove the basting from the first row of braid and tuck the edge of the fabric under. Pin and slipstitch to place through the straw.
Both sides of brim covered with braid—
Allow the first rows to project slightly beyond the edge of the brim both on the top and the bottom. These edges may be brought together with a small slanting stitch, or if preferred the edge may be first bound with a bias piece of satin, or with a row of braid or gay-colored material. If the edge of the brim is bound, the edges of the first rows of braid at the top and bottom would not meet. The bound edge thus showing gives the effect of a cord.
To cover a crown with braid—
Begin at the bottom of the crown, slanting the second row off from the first row the same as on the brim. Pull the braid up with the thread (which will be found on the edge of nearly every braid) and sew until the center of the crown tip is reached, when a hole in the top of the crown may be made and the end pushed through and fastened on the underside. Keep the braid full enough so that it will lie flat all the way. Sometimes it is easier to begin sewing the braid on at the very center of the top of the crown, or a few rows may be sewed to a small circle of crinoline before attaching to the top of the crown.
If a braid is used which is composed of four or five smaller braids sewed together, the method isthe same until the crown tip is reached or a place where it is impossible to make the braid lie flat. The braid must then be separated into the smaller strands and one cut off at a time, and each end lapped under the preceding strand; proceed with the remaining strands, cutting one off at a time until only one remains to finish the center with. When the crown tip is completed, push the remaining end through a hole in the center of the crown tip and sew to the inside of the crown. When using this kind of braid the operation may be reversed, beginning at the center of the top and covering a small circle of buckram with braid; press it with a warm iron to flatten it, then sew in place on the crown and complete the covering. This seems the easier method, because the top of the crown will look much better if pressed and this will be found hard to do unless begun on a small separate piece of buckram.
To piece braid—
Sometimes a braid must be pieced at a conspicuous point on the hat, when careful handling will be found necessary. If the braid is composed of several smaller braids sewed together, the ends should be ripped apart for several inches and the strandscut in unequal lengths; also the strands of the other end which is to be joined to it should be cut of such length as to meet the corresponding ends and allow a lap of one inch. The ends cut in this way may be tucked under one at a time without the joining being noticeable. If the braid is very wide it may seem best when covering a frame to cut and join the ends of the row of braid. It would then be better to make a straight joining in the back.
If a fancy braid is to be pieced, the ends are lapped diagonally and sewed flat. If a fancy joining is part of the design, a simple one is to lap the ends to look as though woven. This may be employed on a crown or brim or both, and it then becomes a part of the design. Also the top of the crown or any part of the hat may have a woven covering of braid, but any such fancy method requires an additional amount of braid.
The top of the crown may be covered by laying the braid on straight from front to back, allowing the ends to extend down on the side crown an inch or more. The braid of the side crown should cover these ends. The brim of a narrow hat is often covered with short lengths of braid radiating from the headsize wire, the ends extending up on the crownone inch. A fabric is often combined with braid for the sake of design, or if there is an insufficient quantity of braid.
Crown top of braid, side crown of fabric—
Side crown of braid and top of fabric—
Band of material, plain or corded, set in side crown—
Brim and crown made from small pieces of silk and braid—
A very soft-looking braid hat may be made by sewing braid over a wire foundation which has been made for the purpose. The braid may be pinned on the brim of wire and sewed, being careful not to attach the braid to the frame; slip the needle over the wire and finish sewing the braid while it is still pinned to the brim, then remove, press slightly, and sew a facing of braid to the under side of the brim if desired. Some kinds of braid may be dampened before pressing, but it is safer to experiment first with a small piece, for some braid is ruined by pressing.
A soft crown of braid should be fitted over awire crown and sewed in the same way. After removing it from the wire frame, it can be slightly pressed by holding it over a thick cloth held in the hand and pressing a warm iron to the outside. A soft hat of braid can more easily be made by first making a frame of crinoline and sewing the braid to it. Horsehair braid crowns are beautiful when shaped over a wire foundation. They may be pressed slightly (after being removed from the wire crown over which they have been shaped) when they will be found to keep their shape. The brim would need a wire foundation to hold it out in shape and the braid should be caught down to the wire as it is being sewed. A small lace wire should be used for this foundation, four spokes together with the headsize wire and edge wire being sufficient. The wire should be wound with maline or have a facing of maline. Horsehair braid is transparent. There are many fanciful ways of using braid on a hat, but these can be readily copied if the foregoing methods have been mastered. Be very careful about pressing braids or adding moisture as it ruins some braids, while others must be moistened before they can be handled in sewing to a hat frame.
Covering wire frames with maline, net or georgette—
Wire frames which are to be covered with sheer material, such as maline, net, or georgette, must be carefully made, as the wire frame becomes a part of the design, and the wire should be silk covered.
If maline is used, it should be pleated or gathered on, unless the brim is of the halo style, for which directions are given elsewhere. Four or five thicknesses of maline are necessary. The material is often gathered in small quarter-inch tucks at the points where the tuck may be sewed to the circle wire on the brim or the crown. A small tuck at the edge wire would make a softer looking edge than if put on plain. The fullness is then gathered in and sewed to the headsize wire. If the edge is left plain, a few rows of lacey-looking braid may be sewed on the edge. A wide tuck hanging down from the edge is sometimes used and it is very becoming to certain types of faces. The wires of a frame are often first wound with narrow bias pieces of net or maline. The edges are turned in and the material wrapped on smoothly and evenly. Sometimes the wires are wound with a contrasting color.
An effective covering for any frame may be made from ribbon or bias strips of satin or silk, velvet or georgette, or any soft fabric. If a wire frame is used, it must first be covered with a thin plain material to serve as a foundation to which the ribbon or strips of material may be sewed, or a frame of neteen or crinoline may be used if a very soft hat is desired.
Ribbon covering—
If a ribbon is used, it must be gathered on one edge so that it may be drawn down to fit the frame and may be laid on the same as braid. An inch-wide ribbon is easily handled.
Bias fabric—
If bias strips of silk or satin are used, the material should be cut in strips two and one-half inches wide, on a true bias, and joined in one long strip. Fold lengthwise through the middle and gather the raw edges together a little less than one-quarter of an inch from the edge. This is sewed to the frame the same as braid, the folded edge overlapping the raw edge and the thread drawn up to adjust it asit is pinned and sewed in place. This is an excellent way to use up old material.
Hat Linings
A hatlining should receive the same careful consideration and workmanship as the outside of the hat. From the milliner's point of view it is an advertisement, the place where we find the designer's name. A well-fitted lining, whether of somber or gay colored silk, enhances the value of a hat. Sometimes we find a tiny sachet rosebud sewed to the lining, or a little lace-trimmed pocket for the veil.
There are three popular kinds of linings—
Plain lining—
This should be made of a bias strip of material cut the length of the headsize wire, plus one inch for seam. The width should be the same as the crown height plus two and one-half inches.
SHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP TO FIT CROWNSHOWING METHOD OF COVERING CROWN WITH TWO-INCH WIDE BIAS SATIN. CORD SEWED IN ONE EDGE; THE OTHER EDGE IS GATHERED AND PULLED UP TO FIT CROWN
Fold one end over one-half inch and pin to theback of the hat; fold the edge of the material down one-quarter of an inch around the inside of the crown as close as possible to the edge without showing when the hat is on the head. Pin in place all the way round and slipstitch the two ends together; then begin at the seam and slipstitch the lining in place. The method is to bring the needle from the underside of the lining through the edge of the fold, catch a few threads of material on the hat opposite this thread, and put the needle back through the fold at the same point; bring the needle through the fold one-half inch from the first stitch and proceed in this manner until the seam is reached. Turn the other raw edge down one-half inch to the wrong side and make a running stitch one-quarter inch from the folded edge in which a narrow ribbon should be run, and drawn down as much as necessary to make the lining fit the crown. A crown tip is used with this lining, which is made of a piece of silk four inches square, sewed or glued to the inside of the crown top. On this piece the designer's name is usually found.
French lining—
This lining is made from an oval piece of silkwhich corresponds to the crown measurements. Measure the crown from front to back and from side to side, adding one inch to these measurements. Fit a small wire to the inside of the hat at the headsize and tie. Lap the edge of the silk over the wire one-quarter of an inch. Gather the silk close to the wire using a small running stitch. After completed, pin in place and slipstitch to the crown. This lining will reduce the headsize of any hat somewhat, so it should never be used if there is any danger of making the hat too small for the head.
Tailored lining—
This lining is rather the most popular lining used. Large firms send their material away to be made up for their trade and the linings may be bought ready-made, but almost every one has pieces of silk which may be easily made into one of these linings.
Cut an oval of crinoline two-thirds as large as the top of crown, baste a piece of silk lining over this. Pin this on top of the crown, as this can best be fitted on the outside and should be done before the hat is made. Now cut a piece of bias material long enough to reach around the bottom of the crown wide enough to meet this crown tip at allpoints. After pinning it to the crown tip, turn up one-quarter of an inch at the bottom and pin to the bottom of the crown. Stretch snugly because the inside of the crown is smaller; pin the fullness to the crown top all around, gather between pins, and baste in place. Stitch on the machine. This seam may be corded or a small cord sewed on to cover the seam.
Linings may be made of taffeta, china silk, satin, sateen or of almost any material which is not too heavy. When a wire frame is covered with thin material and the frame shows through, the hat should have a thin lining. If the hat is covered with maline, use a maline lining; if with georgette, a georgette lining should be used.
Milliner's fold—
Cutfrom a piece of velvet, satin, or any fabric which is to be used, a bias strip one and one-half inches wide and of the desired length. This must be on a true bias, which is found by placing the warp and woof threads parallel. Any other bias is called a garment bias. Hold the wrong side toward you and turn the bottom edge up on the wrong side toward you and up to the center and baste close to the edge. The basting thread must be loose enough to permit the fold to be stretched. Leave the basting in. Next fold the other raw edge down until the two edges meet, but do not baste. Fold again, keeping this last fold one-quarter of an inch or a little less from the other folded edge. Hold in place and slipstitch down. Slip the needle through the edge of the fold and take a long stitch, then, going down through to the other side, take a short stitch. Come back through a little under the fold to hidethe stitch. Slip the needle along the edge of the fold as before, and continue in this manner. The thread should be kept loose all the way to permit the fold to be stretched slightly when used. The fold when finished should not twist or look as if it had a stitch in it.
Another separate single fold may be added to this; it is then called a French fold. The milliner's fold has many uses, such as finishing the edge of hats, and the bottom of crowns, to cover the joining of the hat to the brim. It is used sometimes around the top of a square crown and is much used in mourning millinery, when it is made of crêpe.
Bows
Forthe inexperienced in bow-making there is no better plan than to copy many different styles of bows, using either tissue paper or cheap cambric, as ribbons are ruined by being made over too many times. Bow-making is sometimes quite difficult for an amateur, while for some students of millinery it is very easy, but any one with patience may become quite expert in time.
Cut the tissue paper or cambric the exact width of the ribbon which is to be used. In this way theexact amount of ribbon may be determined, as well as the length of each loop. If a stiff, smart-looking bow is to be made, fold the ribbon in loops before pleating. If a soft-looking or puffy, “fat”-looking bow is desired, pleat the ribbon singly before making the loops. The soft bow is often used for children's hats. After the desired number of loops is made, wind a strong thread around the center and over this wrap the remaining end of ribbon around the center several times until the center is filled up sufficiently to look well.
Bows of maline—
Maline is one of the most beautiful materials used in millinery and it lends itself to many uses. Hat frames are covered with maline; it is used to cover wings to keep feathers in place; to cover faded or worn-out flowers; for shirred brims and crowns; for pleatings; for folds on edges of brims to give a soft look; and for bows.
A bow of maline requires wiring with a very small tie wire or lace wire. The wire may be caught in a fold at the edge of the loops, or the loops may be made double with the wire caught inside.
Wired ribbon bows—
Ribbon is sometimes wired if a stiff effect is desired. Silk, satin, velvet, or any kind of ribbon can be used. The flat ribbon wire is sometimes pasted between two ribbons with milliner's glue. Often two colors are rather effectively used in this way. The wire may also be stitched to one edge of the ribbon. This is done by turning the ribbon over the wire at the edge and stitching on the sewing machine. The ends of the wire should extend two inches beyond the ends of the loop of the bow. After the bow is arranged, these ends should be bent out and back, making loops which are sewed down to the hat. This holds the bow very firmly, especially if a small piece of buckram is placed inside the hat at the point at which the bow is to be sewed. This re-enforces the frame and makes it still more firm. If a bow is to be placed on top of a crown, a hole may be made and the ribbon which completes the middle of the bow may be brought up from the inside of the crown through this opening, over the bow, and down through this opening and fastened inside of the crown.
A narrow ribbon of velvet is very pretty twisted over a wire and two perky loops and ends made.These are very pretty perched on the edge of a brim or among flowers on the hat.
True lovers' knot—
This is not, strictly speaking, a bow, but comes under this head. The ribbon used is made into the knot and sewed flat as it is made. It may be sewed on the brim or side crown and is very effective made of gold ribbon.
Tailored bow—
This bow is usually made from a piece of ribbon which has both sides alike, although it may be made from any ribbon. A Knox tailored bow is made from gros-grained ribbon. Cut a small piece of buckram for a foundation to sew the ribbon on. This should be sufficiently small so that the ribbon will conceal it. Make two loops of equal length, letting the ribbon lie perfectly flat. Measurements should be very exact. Sew these loops firmly to the buckram; fold the ribbon back and forth to make these loops without cutting. Next fold two more loops, one on each side, one-quarter of an inch shorter and exactly on top. Sew firmly and cut theribbon off at the center. Fasten two short ends to the back of the bow, allowing them to extend one-quarter of an inch and cut diagonally. Take a short length of ribbon and pleat it once through the center. Wrap this once around the bow and fasten at the back.
This bow is much used on sailors or any tailored hat. There are many kinds of fancy bows brought out from season to season, but if the making of a few styles of standard bows is mastered, others may be easily copied.
Pleatings
A pleatingis difficult and requires patience. Unless accurately made, it should never be used on a hat, for upon its accuracy depends its attractiveness. The simplest pleating is a side pleating. This may be made from paper or stiff muslin for practice work. There should not be a thread's difference in the width of each pleat. Any simple pleating requires three times the length of the space it is to cover. If a half-inch pleating is to be made, the folds will come every one and one-half inches. As each fold is laid, baste it down with silk thread. Press slightly on the wrong side before using.
Box pleating—
This is made by turning the first pleat to the left and the next to the right. The same amount of material is required as for side pleating. If the pleats are to be one-half inch deep, the box pleat will beoneinch across. Baste with silk thread at the top and bottom, and press on the wrong side. A simple box pleating may be basted through the center and the edges caught together.
Double or triple box-pleating—
This is made by adding one or more pleats, one on top of the other. Begin by making two or more pleats turning to the left, then the same number turning to the right. Be very accurate, being careful to keep the box pleat the exact width desired. Baste at the top and bottom. This pleating is nearly always used by basting through the center, after having slightly pressed. The top and bottom bastings are then removed. The pleating may be caught together at top and bottom of box pleat, and it is then known asrose pleating.
Radiating—
This is the most difficult pleating to fashion, butvery handsome ornaments are made in this way. A foundation of buckram is usually required to sew the pleats on as they are laid. The two illustrations given will suffice. After these two examples are correctly copied, other models and original designs can be easily made.
Foundations of buckram—
The foundation for the second is in the shape of a low pyramid made from buckram. Cut a small circle of buckram, slash in three equally distant places from the outer edge to within one-eighth of an inch of the center. Lap a small amount and sew. Three rows or more of pleating may be used on this ornament. An ordinary ornament will require about five yards of inch-wide ribbon. The first row would be placed near the outside edge of the buckram and each pleat sewed as it is laid. The pleating should radiate from the center. To do this, the inside of the pleating will lap more than the outside. The next row will overlap this first row and the same method will be used. The pleating may be tested by holding a ruler on a line between the top and the lower edge of the pleating. The pleats should all be on a straight line between these points. The last orfinishing row is the most difficult of all. The pleats at the apex should meet, and pleats at the lower overlapping edge be on a line with the rest of the pleating. A tiny bow or button is sometimes used to finish the top, but it is much handsomer if finished without either bow or button.
Pompons
Malinepompons make a very pretty ornament for any hat. They may be made perfectly round or elongated like the illustration. Several thicknesses of the material may be cut at one time. The shape of the pieces for the elongated pompon would be cut like pattern “a.” Each piece is folded lengthwise of the material, and this fold is fastened to a wire which has been previously wound with maline. The edges of these pieces are left raw, and enough are used to make the pompon appear quite compact.
Ribbon Rosettes
Thereare many different kinds of rosettes made from ribbon. Sometimes several loops of ribbon are made very close together and wound with thread as they are gathered. A very pretty rosetteis made of narrow ribbon one-quarter of an inch wide. Many loops three inches long or more of this width ribbon may be fastened to a small piece of buckram. A knot placed at the end of each loop adds to its attractiveness.
Rosettes from old plumes—
An old plume may be used to make trimming for a hat by cutting it from the quill with a very sharp knife or razor blade, retaining a small portion of the quill which will be sufficient to hold the feathers together. This should be sewed onto a fine wire, and it may then be wound into a rosette. A small flower placed in the center is a pleasing addition.
Flowers
Flowersmay be made from almost any fabric—satin, velvet, georgette, maline, ribbon, soft leather, oilcloth, yarn, and chenille. A scrapbag for odds and ends should always be kept for small pieces of materials. Any piece two inches square may be used for flowers or fruits. Such a bag of pieces will prove a veritable gold mine to use in making flowers and fruit trimmings. Each year brings out novelties in trimmings, but hand-made flowers are always worn more or less on hats, gowns, suits, and muffs. They are especially beautiful on evening gowns. A generous number of the best examples are given here with illustrations.
To prepare the petals of any flower is not difficult, but to arrange them is another matter. Study the face of any blossom which you are making and try to make it look as natural as possible. Pinning the petals in place before sewing them is of great value, otherwise they are apt to slip back on the stem as they are being sewed.