CHAPTER XVIBoats

Fig. 86.

Horns may be made in several ways, the simplest form being a piece of tin rolled into a cone shape and soldered to the dash. A more realistic horn may be made by soldering a screw cap to the larger end of the cone and adding the cap of a paint tube to the smaller end. A hand horn may be made as shown inFig. 85.

Speedometers, voltmeters and ammeters may be made of screw tops soldered inside the dash as shown.

Drivers’ Cabs.—Most of the large trucks have some kind of a cab to protect the driver from the weather, excepting the army trucks, which usually depend on part of the canvas hood or cover for protection.

On the toy trucks these cabs may be very simply made from a square tin cocoa or olive oil can or they may be more elaborately built, depending on the ability of the maker. These cabs should be carefully made and kept in proportion to the rest of the truck.

All sharp edges should be turned over or bound with folded strips of tin. Windows may be cut in the cab by placing it on the block and using a small chisel to cut them out. The edges of these windows should all be bound with folded strips of tin as shown in the illustration.

The buggy top for the driver’s seat may be made from part of a certain well-known curved tobacco box and several short pieces of galvanized wire,Fig. 86.

THE ROWBOAT—THE SAILBOAT—THE SCOW—THE TUGBOAT—THE BATTLESHIP—THE FERRY-BOAT

The elliptically shaped tin cans, used for fish of different kinds, may be made up into boats that will float. A deck is soldered tightly to the can where the lid has been removed and various superstructures added to make the different types of boats, but to form a rowboat, seats may be soldered to an open can.

The Rowboat.—The rowboat is the simplest one to make as no deck is to be soldered on. A narrow elliptical fish can should be used. These cans usually contain fresh mackerel, and are of real boat shape.

Such cans are opened at the top inside the rolled rim. The extra tin near the edge of rim should be broken away with the pliers as in making a pail, all roughness being filed away.

Lay the can face down on a sheet of paper, drawing around the outside edge with a sharp pencil to get an outline of the boat. This outline will serve as a guide when cutting out the seats. The seats may be cut to the outline of the boat already tracedon paper, when the two end seats will fit bow and stern. But the center seat will have to be trimmed off a bit to fit the boat. The free edges of the seats must be turned down as a finish.

The Sailboat.—A catboat or sloop may be made from the same sort of narrow elliptical can or even of a wider can of the same shape. A deck is soldered to this can, a hole cut in it for a cockpit. To the edge of the cockpit a folded band of tin is soldered.

A tube of tin is soldered to the stern, and a wire tiller is run through this tube and soldered to a rudder. A hole is punched in the center of the forward deck, and a tube of tin is soldered in this hole to contain the mast. The mast and spars are of wood.

The keel is made of a piece of tin soldered to the bottom of the boat. The boat should be completed, and the mast, spars and sails in place, before the keel is put on. Try the boat in a basin of water. It will probably tip over unless a very broad can is used to make it. Cut out a keel of the shape shown inFig. 87and solder it lightly in place at each end. Place the boat in the water again to see how it floats. If the keel is too heavy, part of it may be cut off, if it is too light, it may be broken away and a heavier one made and soldered on. When properly made these boats are good sailers.

When soldering a deck to the boat, the rough edge remaining after cutting away the lid of the can is left in place so as to form a sort of ledge tosolder the deck to. The rough flutings may be flattened out by using a pair of flat-nosed pliers topress down the flutes as you work along and simply pinching it flat.

Fig. 87.

The Scow.—A small scow may be made from a biscuit box of flat tin, the kind that has contained small sweet biscuits with a cream filling. Both box and lid are used and cut down as indicated inFig. 88. The box is left at the original width. The two ends are cut away from the lid. The two folded-down sides of the lid are used to make folded strips with which to bind the sides of the scow.

A tiny box made of part of the lid is soldered to the rear deck of the scow for a cabin. A small piece of galvanized wire bent at an angle is soldered to the cabin for a stovepipe. The towing bits are rivets soldered to the forward deck.

The Tugboat.—Tugboats may be made from the larger elliptical fish cans. A good sized can of this sort is that one commonly found to contain kippered herring. This can will make up into a large tugboat, but if a small tug is to be made to tow the scow previously described, a mackerel roe can is the best to use.

A deck is soldered tightly to the can, as in making the sailboat, except that the deck is left whole; no openings are cut in it.

The cabin is made from a rectangular cocoa can, or a small olive oil can, cut down to a suitable height and soldered to the deck, bottom up.

Fig. 88.

The pilot house is made from a small adhesiveplaster box, the smokestack being from a small piece of tin with top edge first folded over and then rolledinto a cylindrical shape. A piece of wire may be soldered to the stack for an exhaust pipe. A tiny piece of wire is soldered to the front of the stack for a whistle. These pieces of wire may be tied to the stack with fine iron binding wire, such as florists use. When the wire exhaust and whistle are soldered to the stack the wire may then be removed. It will be found very difficult to solder these short pieces in place without binding them in position.

PLATE XVCourtesy Pictorial ReviewBoats made by author

PLATE XV

Courtesy Pictorial Review

Boats made by author

The lifeboat is made from a small folded piece of tin, both ends being pushed in and soldered together. The finished boat is soldered to the roof of the cabin.

The towing bits are rivets soldered to the deck. Remember to use the pliers to hold the rivets in place when soldering them on. When these boats are floated in the water they may be found to tip to one side slightly. A bit of solder may be melted on to the bottom of the boat with the copper in such a position that it will counteract any tendency to tip.

The Battleship, Destroyers, etc.—The battleship shown inPlate XVis made from a narrow elliptical fish can. A deck is soldered on and a cabin made of a small rectangular box such as beef cubes usually are packed in.

The turrets are made of pill or salve boxes of small round tin design. The lid of the box is soldered to the deck and when the box is set in the lid the turret may be turned about.

The guns are made of short pieces of wire soldered to the turrets and cabin.

The mast is made of a tin oil can spout or a piece of tin rolled into a cone shape. A screw cap of a tooth paste tube is soldered to it for a fighting top.

Some sort of a keel will have to be soldered to the battleship to keep it upright in the water. Three pieces of heavy galvanized wire may be soldered to the bottom, one in the center and one at each side, or a strip of sheet lead may be soldered to the bottom.

A destroyer may be built up in the same manner as the battleship; in fact, almost any type of boat may be built by changing the superstructure.

The Ferry-boat.—A ferry-boat may be built with paddle wheels that will revolve when the boat is pulled along in the water or anchored in a running stream.

The hull is made from a kippered herring can with a deck soldered on. Four strips of tin are cut for the sides of the cabins. Two of these are soldered to the sides of the hull next to the rolled rim and following the outline of the can or hull. The two inside walls of the cabins are soldered about ¾ of an inch inside the outer walls which leaves a gangway through the center of the boat.

An upper deck is soldered to these four walls; the inner walls need only be soldered to the upper deck at each end.

The two pilot houses are made of adhesive plaster boxes and the smokestack is rolled up from a piece of tin.

A hole is punched or drilled through all four walls of the cabin to receive the axle of the paddle wheels.

The paddle wheels are made from small cans exactly in the same way as the auto truck wheels and eight small square pieces of tin are soldered to the circumference of each wheel for paddles. Rolled strips of tin are placed on the axles between the wheels and the cabins for washers. The axle should revolve very freely in the axle holes.

If one has some mechanical ability it is not very difficult to form a crank in the paddle wheel axle and attach a connecting rod to a small tin walking beam which will move up and down as the paddle wheels revolve. An imitation piston rod may be fastened to the other end of the walking beam and allowed to run free through a hole in the upper deck.

The wheels of the ferry-boat will revolve if it is anchored in a running stream or towed behind a rowboat.

A SIMPLE TOY LOCOMOTIVE—THE FRAME—BOILER—CAB—WHEELS—CYLINDERS AND CONNECTING RODS—THE SMOKESTACK, STEAM DOME AND WHISTLE, SAND BOX AND HEADLIGHT—CARS—A PASSENGER CAR AND SOME OTHERS

The locomotive shown inPlate XVis made so that the connecting rods move back and forth as the locomotive is pulled along. The principal dimensions are given inFig. 89. This locomotive is not much more difficult to make than the auto truck, but it should not be attempted until the auto truck is satisfactorily completed.

The Frame.—The frame of the locomotive should be made first, and it is made from a flat piece of tin 5¼ by 10½ inches. Scribe a line ¼ inch inside and along all edges, cut off the corners as shown inFig. 89and fold all four edges in. Cut into the corners of the frame on linesA,A,A,A.

PLATE XVISimple toy locomotive and sand or water mill made by the authorThe first tin can toy. A locomotive made by the author for his son

PLATE XVI

Simple toy locomotive and sand or water mill made by the author

The first tin can toy. A locomotive made by the author for his son

PLATE XVIICourtesy New York WorldSteam tractor and gun unpainted

PLATE XVII

Courtesy New York World

Steam tractor and gun unpainted

Turn down the two sides of the frame first, then turn down the two ends. The four pieces of the sides that project beyond the sides are turned in over the ends as shown inFig. 89. The sides and ends of the frame may be turned over a square maple block. Solder the frame at the ends.

Fig. 89.

The Boiler.—The boiler is made of two small soup cans. One whole can is used and the bottom and part of the sides of another can of exactly the same size is soldered to the first can to make a long boiler. One long can, if obtainable, may be used for the boiler. When two or more cans are soldered together to make a long boiler the two rolled rims of the cans soldered together give the appearance of a boiler strap as shown inFig. 89.

The Cab.—The cab is made of a rectangular cocoa can. Most of one side is cut away leaving just enough to fold back against the sides of the cab. The cab is then placed on a wooden block and a chisel is used to cut the window openings. A large round punch may be used to cut out the front windows or a very small chisel made of a nail may be used to cut these circular windows.

A top is made for the cab from a piece of tin 3¾ by 3¾ inches square. One-quarter inch is marked off and turned in all around this piece. Two opposite sides are folded down and the two other sides are left standing at right angles to the piece and these two opposite sides are left open just enough to slide over the top of box forming the cab where the top is soldered in place as shown in the drawing.

The boiler should be soldered to the cab and then these two are soldered to the frame where they touch it at the front end of the boiler and the base of the cab.

The Wheels.—The front wheels of the locomotive are made of the small sized evaporated milk cans exactly in the same way that the wheels of the auto truck are made. These wheels are 2½ inches in diameter and ⅝ inch wide.

The wire axle of the front wheels passes through two lugs that are soldered to the sides of the frame.

The driving wheels are made from 3½-inch rolled-rim cans. The axle for these wheels passes directly through holes in the sides of the frame.

A piece of galvanized wire 1¼ inches in length is used for driving pins for the connecting rods on each driving wheel. Each piece of wire is placed through two holes in the driving wheel, these holes being directly opposite each other and exactly ½ inch from the center of each wheel. As these driving pins pass entirely through the wheel they should be soldered to each side of it in order to give added strength, as they would break away from the wheels very easily if they did not pass entirely through the wheel and were not supported by each side of it.

Cylinders and Connecting Rods.—These cylinders are rolled up from flat pieces of tin each 2¼ by 3¼ inches. The tin is folded over on the two shortest sides of each piece before it is formed into a cylindrical shape, the folded sides of the tin forming each end of the cylinders.

The connecting rods are made of two strips of tin, each ¾ by 6¼ inches. Both sides of the stripare folded in, making a triple thickness of tin and a connecting rod about ⁵⁄₁₆ inch wide and 6¼ inches long.

A disk of tin is soldered to one end of each connecting rod. These disks should be somewhat smaller than the diameter of the cylinders so that they may slide easily back and forth inside the cylinders.

The connecting rods have to be bent at the two angles shown inFig. 89so that each rod may be in line with the cylinder and with the driving wheel.

The Smokestack, Steam Dome and Whistle, Sand Box and Headlight.—The smokestack is rolled up from a piece of tin 2¾ by 2⅞ inches. This piece of tin is cut from the side of a can so as to leave the rolled rim at the top for the rim of the stack.

The steam dome is made of the top part of a tooth powder can with the distributer top left on. This top is left open to form a whistle. That part of the tooth powder can which rests against the boiler must be fitted very carefully so as to conform to the curve of the boiler.

The sand box may be made from a bottle cap and the headlight may be made from another bottle cap as shown in the drawing.

Cars.—A coal tender for the locomotive may be made from a small square box mounted on a frame or platform similar to the locomotive, only smaller. The car wheels may be made from the small evaporated milk cans or from any small cans obtainable.

A freight car may be made from a long square box in a manner similar to the coal tender. Passenger cars may be made from long rectangular cans and the windows and doors may be cut or painted on the sides or ends. Be sure to place folded strips of tin over any raw edges left when cutting out windows and doors.

A Passenger Car and Some Others.—A passenger car may be made from an olive or cooking oil can; that is, about half of one of the larger cans cut lengthwise. Select a can so that when it is cut lengthwise to dimension it will be in proportion to the locomotive which is to be used with it. No dimensions are given in the drawings as these cans vary in size, but it is not difficult to find a suitable rectangular can for a passenger car.

When the can is cut open, draw two parallel lines along the sides for window openings. Do not try to cut each window separately, but cut one long opening for all the windows, bind the cut edges with folded strips and then solder folded pieces across the window openings at intervals for divisions between the windows.

Cut a door in each end of the car and bind the edges with folded tin. The projecting hoods over the door at each end of the car roof may be made of part of the sides and bottom of a square can or from that part of the olive or cooking oil can that is cut away in making the body of the car.

Fig. 90.

A flat piece of tin may be used for the bottom of the car, this piece being formed in exactly the same way that the frame of the auto truck is formed. It is made long enough to allow for a platform at each end of the car, and the car body is soldered securely to it.

Car wheels may be made from very small cans as any other tin can wheels are made. Two bottle caps may be soldered together for a wheel or several flat disks of tin may be cut and soldered together at the edges to form a wheel. The tin washers used with roofing nails make an excellent wheel when two are soldered together, back to back. Never try to use a single can lid, bottle cap or tin disk for a wheel that is to bear any weight. Any of these are too weak to stand up alone. The wheels are mounted in the manner shown in the drawings of the passenger car.

Other cars may be made from cans as shown inFig. 90, the construction being so simple as to need no further description. These cars may be made as simple or as elaborate as the skill of the maker permits.

WATER WHEELS AND SANDMILLS—A SIMPLE STEAM TURBINE AND BOILER—A WINDMILL AND TOWER—AEROPLANE WEATHERVANE

Water wheels and sandmills may be made from bottle caps and can lids. Two push-in or friction-top can lids are soldered together to form a flanged wheel and bottle caps are soldered between the flanges, at equal intervals, for the buckets. The general construction is shown inFig. 91. A nozzle may be formed from a piece of tin and soldered to the standard so that a hose may be connected with it and to faucet, or, the water wheel may be set in a sink under a faucet or placed in a stream of running water.

A funnel or sand hopper may be made of tin and soldered to a standard which holds the bucket wheel. Fine dry sand placed in the hopper will run through the hole in the bottom and cause the bucket wheel to revolve.

A Simple Steam Turbine and Boiler.—A very simple and amusing steam turbine that runs with steam generated in a tin-can boiler may be made from tin cans. Select a well-soldered can with atight-fitting lid, such as a molasses or syrup can with a friction-top lid. The lid will have to be soldered in place to make it steam tight.

Fig. 91.

Punch a hole about ¼ inch in diameter near one side of the lid for a filler hole. See that this hole is perfectly round so that a cork may be fitted in to make it steam tight.

The vane wheel should be about 3 inches in diameter and very carefully made. See that the axle is soldered exactly in the center of the wheel. The vanes should be small and numerous and each one exactly the same size. The method of construction is shown onpage 183(full page drawing). A 3-inch circle is carefully laid out on a flat piece of tin and then another circle is laid off inside the first one about ¾ inch in. The outer circle is then divided up into 36 equal parts. Draw straight lines from each dividing dot at the edge to the center of the wheel. Bore a small hole exactly where each line crosses the inner circle. Cut down each dividing line to each hole. Use the pliers to turn each vane at right angles to the face of the wheel.

The steam nozzle should be very small. A triangular piece of tin may be formed around a fine wire nail or pin. The opening in the nozzle should be about ⅟₃₂ inch in diameter. The nozzle should be well soldered together and then soldered to the boiler, over a hole of a suitable size to allow the steam to flow from the boiler into the nozzle. Besure not to solder up the tube so that the steam may not escape. A piece of broom straw may be placed in the nozzle when soldering it together, and it may be left in when the nozzle is soldered to the boiler. The straw should extend into the boiler and may be withdrawn when the soldering operations are completed. Do not use wire inside the nozzle to prevent it filling with solder as the solder will stick to it and prevent its being withdrawn.

Use care in placing the nozzle in position under the vane wheel so that the steam will strike the vanes squarely when it escapes. Set the end of the nozzle as close to the vanes as possible, but so that it does not strike the vanes when the wheel revolves.

These turbines run at very high speed when carefully made. Do not use too much heat under the boiler, as too great pressure may explode it with disastrous results. If the boiler is set over a gas flame, take care not to allow the flame to flare out around the boiler and creep up the sides, as it may then melt off the top of the boiler even when there is considerable water in it. A moderate flame will cause enough pressure to be generated in the boiler to make the vane wheel revolve rapidly. If care is used in fitting the cork in the filler hole, it may be made steam tight by pushing it into the filler hole with a light pressure so that if too much pressure is generated in the boiler the cork will blow out.

A pinion from a small clock works may besoldered to the vane wheel shaft and meshed in with a large gear which is set on a shaft soldered to the supporting upright at one side of the wheel. A small pulley may be made of wood or metal and fastened to the large gear. This arrangement of gears will give a reduced speed and a string belt may be run from the pulley to some light running toy machine. The pinion and gear fastened to the turbine should run very easily.

An alcohol heating lamp may be made for the turbine boiler by soldering a wick tube and a vent tube to a shoe paste or salve box.

The wick tube should be made from a strip of tin rolled up into a cylindrical shape. It should be about ½ inch in diameter and 1½ inches in length when soldered together. The wick tube should extend about 1 inch above the top of the lamp and it should be soldered firmly in a hole cut in the top of the lamp to receive it.

A small tube about ¼ inch in diameter and 3 inches long is soldered together. This tube should be soldered over a hole near the side of the lamp at the top and soldered on at an angle as shown inFig. 91. It serves as a vent, allowing the alcohol gas generated within the top of the lamp to escape and it also serves as a handle. An alcohol lamp fitted with a vent tube of this description will not boil over and catch fire as so many of the small alcohol lamps provided with toy steam engines aresure to do. Vent tubes soldered to these lamps in such a manner as to conduct the gas away from the flame will provide against accidents of this sort.

A filler hole should be placed in the top of the lamp as far away from the wick tube as possible. A common cork may be used as a stopper. A small funnel may be easily made from some pieces of scrap tin and used for filling the boiler and the lamp.

A Windmill and Tower.—A windmill and tower that will look very realistic when completed may be made from tin cans. The vane wheel is composed of twelve blades set in two can lids. The vanes are cut from a flat piece of tin, care being taken to make each one exactly the same size. A large can lid is used for the outer vane support and the central part of this lid is cut away. Twelve cuts are made around the edge of the can lid at equal distances and the vanes soldered in these cuts.

A small can lid is used for the center of the wheel and the ends of the vanes soldered to it.

The tower is made of strips of folded tin and the tank from a tin can is shown inFig. 92.

Aeroplane Weathervane.—A biplane weathervane may be made from flat strips of tin. Large round or square cans may be opened out and the tin taken from them used to make the aeroplane weathervane. When this weathervane is mounted on a suitable spike on which it may turn about freely in the wind, the propeller will revolve rapidly when the wind blows.

Fig. 92.

PLATE XVIIIAeroplane weather vanes made by the author

PLATE XVIII

Aeroplane weather vanes made by the author

The construction of the aeroplane is quite simple and the principal dimensions are given inFig. 93. The construction is very well shown inPlate XVIII. If the foregoing problems have been satisfactorily worked out there will be no difficulty in constructing the aeroplane from the dimensions given.

The two wings are made from two pieces of tin of the required size with the edges folded over.

The body of fuselage is made of a long triangular piece of tin folded up on each side so as to form a sort of long tapering box. A cover is made for this box and divided into two parts so as to leave a cockpit opening.

The struts or wing supports are made from narrow strips of tin that are folded almost together for strength. The small guy wires had best be made from copper wire of small diameter. If it is difficult to get small copper wire, it may be possible to get two or three feet of insulated copper wire used for electrical purposes. Such wire is employed to wind small magnets used on electric bells. The insulation easily burns off. Copper wire solders very easily.

Fig. 93.

The rudder and tail planes are made from flat pieces of tin. A straight piece of wire is used for the propeller shaft. A tube is made of tin and used as a bearing for the shaft. The propeller shaft should fit very loosely in the tube. The bearing tubeis soldered firmly to the body of the aeroplane as shown inFig. 93. When completely assembled, except for the propeller and its shaft, the propeller is soldered to one end of the shaft. Care should betaken to mount the propeller blade in such a way that the shaft is exactly in the center, so that one side of the propeller is not heavier than the other. The shaft is pushed through the bearing tube and should project about ¼ inch beyond it. A strip of tin is wound around this projecting end of the shaft and soldered to it in such a manner that the shaft is free to turn in the tube.

When the plane is completely assembled try it to find the point at which it balances when rested on the finger under the fuselage. A hole should be punched at this point large enough to admit the iron rod or piece of heavy wire that is to be used for the spike on which to mount the weathervane. A second hole is punched directly above the first one; this hole is considerably smaller than the hole beneath it. The top of the iron spike that supports the aeroplane weathervane is filed down to a smaller diameter so that when the spike is pushed through the larger hole the smaller or filed part of the spike will go through the hole in the upper part of the fuselage. The weathervane will then rest on the shoulder formed on the spike as shown in the illustration. A block of wood may be nailed to the roof peak of the house or barn and a hole bored into it the size of the supporting spike, and the spike may be pushed into this and the aeroplane weathervane mounted on the spike. It should be well painted in bright colors and if well made will prove a very pleasing toy.

WALL SCONCES, AND A LANTERN

The base of the tall candlestick shown inFig. 94is made of various sized cans cut down to tray-like forms and soldered together. As may be seen by studying them, the shafts are made from ordinary tin campaign horns. The drip cups are made of press-in can lids or from small cans cut down to tray-like shapes. All sharp edges are to be turned over. The candle sockets are formed in the same way as that of the candlestick described inChapter VIII, page 94.

The wall sconces are made of large olive or cooking oil cans or the cans that have contained automobile lubricating oils. All edges should be turned or bound with folded strips of tin. Sconce No. 2 may be made of a flat sheet of tin and half of a large round can cut down to tray size. Sconce No. 3 may be made of a large round can cut down to shape.

PLATE XIXA lantern made by the authorA fighting tank made by the author. The tank is made of two mackerel tins. Parts of pepper boxes, bottle caps and a few nails used as guns

PLATE XIX

A lantern made by the author

A fighting tank made by the author. The tank is made of two mackerel tins. Parts of pepper boxes, bottle caps and a few nails used as guns

The lantern is not made from a rectangular can, but it is made from two square pieces of tin used for the top and bottom, part of a can being fitted in a hole cut in the square piece used for the top of thelantern. The four corner pieces of the lantern are made of strips of tin cut at a right angle.

Fig. 94.

A sliding door is made from a flat sheet of tin, this door sliding between two folded strips of tin which are soldered to the framework of the lantern. Three pieces of glass are used for the lantern, as these are held in place by small pieces of tin folded at an angle, one part of which rests against the glass and the other part is soldered to the tin work of the lantern. These pieces are put in place as each piece of glass is placed in the lantern, one at the top and the other at the bottom of each piece of glass.

A COFFEE POT—BOILING PAILS—FRYING PAN—TOASTER—A CAMP SHOWER BATH—CANTEEN OR HOT WATER BOTTLE—A MATCH BOX

An excellent coffee pot may be made from a gallon can or from a smaller one. This tin must be of the rolled rim or locked seam type so that it will not melt apart or leak if it should accidently boil dry.

Lugs are riveted to the side of the can as described in making a pail inChapter IX, page 100. A series of small holes are punched in a triangular formation in such a manner that they will be immediately back of the spout when this is soldered in place.

The spout is made of a separate piece of tin of a triangular shape. This piece of tin is formed into shape and is then riveted to the coffee pot over the strainer holes. After it is held in place by the rivets it is tightly soldered so that it will not leak. The rivets are to prevent the spout from melting off.

A lid for the coffee pot may be made from the bottom of another can of the same size. Some cans are provided with a cover and these make excellent coffee pots.

Boiling or Cooking Pails.—The boiling or cooking pails are made in the same manner as the pails described inChapter IX, page 100. Care should be taken to use only rolled rim or locked seam pails for any utensil that is to go over a fire.

Frying Pan.—The frying pan is made by cutting down a large round or square can of the rolled or locked seam type. The edges are turned and a suitable handle is riveted on as shown. Be sure to rivet all joints that are to be subjected to the heat from a fire.

Toaster.—A toaster or broiler may be made from folded strips of tin which are strongly riveted together as shown inFig. 95. Be sure to put two rivets in each corner of the toaster.

The Canteen or Hot Water Bottle.—The canteen or hot water bottle may be made of two cake or pie tins soldered together or from large round gallon cans cut to size and made up like a large tin can wheel. A water-tight screw cap may be fitted to the canteen by removing the screw top and cap from a maple syrup or automobile oil can and soldering the screw over a suitable hole in the canteen. Most of these screw caps may be melted off the original can by simply heating them, the cap itself being removed during this operation.

PLATE XXA toy tin can kitchen made by author. The body of the range is made of a biscuit box. The draught door is made of the top of a pepper box, with sifter top. The ash door is made of the bottom of a pepper box. The oven door is made of the hinged tin lid of a little cigar box. The stove lids are made of can lids. The door handles are rivets. The range boiler is made of a long can; pipes are made of wire. The tea kettle is made of a shoe paste box.

PLATE XX

A toy tin can kitchen made by author. The body of the range is made of a biscuit box. The draught door is made of the top of a pepper box, with sifter top. The ash door is made of the bottom of a pepper box. The oven door is made of the hinged tin lid of a little cigar box. The stove lids are made of can lids. The door handles are rivets. The range boiler is made of a long can; pipes are made of wire. The tea kettle is made of a shoe paste box.

PLATE XXIA doll’s bathroom made by the author. The bath tub is made of a corn can, cut in half lengthwise. Part of another can of the same size is fitted with the open end of the first can. The edges are turned over. The washstand is made of the top and bottom of a spice box; the bowl is made of a varnish can cap. The column is made of a pill box. The mirror is made of a can lid.A tin can laundry made by the author. The laundry tubs are made of a cigarette box. Rivets are used as faucets. The sink is made of a pocket tobacco box. Cup hooks are used as faucets. The clock is made of a small tin box and can lids.

PLATE XXI

A doll’s bathroom made by the author. The bath tub is made of a corn can, cut in half lengthwise. Part of another can of the same size is fitted with the open end of the first can. The edges are turned over. The washstand is made of the top and bottom of a spice box; the bowl is made of a varnish can cap. The column is made of a pill box. The mirror is made of a can lid.

A tin can laundry made by the author. The laundry tubs are made of a cigarette box. Rivets are used as faucets. The sink is made of a pocket tobacco box. Cup hooks are used as faucets. The clock is made of a small tin box and can lids.

A Camp Shower Bath.—A camp shower bath may be made of a very large can, a shoe paste box, ashort length of rubber hose and two small flat pieces of tin.

Fig. 95.

A 5-gallon can that has contained automobile oil is easily found and a hot lye bath will remove all traces of the oil. The lye solution is placed in the can and raised to the boiling point. It is then poured out and the can is rinsed with hot water.

Fig. 96.

The top of the can is removed and a strong handle fixed to the can. A small nipple of tin is soldered to the side of the can, near the bottom. This nipple is simply a flat piece of tin rolled into a cylindrical shape and of a suitable size so that a piece of rubber hose may be fitted tightly over it.

A second nipple of the same size should be made for the spray nozzle. The spray nozzle is made froma shoe paste or salve box. A number of fine holes are punched in the box lid and the tin pipe or nipple is soldered in a hole made for it in the bottom of the box.

A wire hook is provided at the rim of the pail to hold the spray nozzle in place when it is not desired to have the water run out of it.

It will be found convenient to have a double pulley and rope rigged to hoist the pail to a convenient height after filling.

The Match Box.—The match box is made of two cigarette boxes, one for good matches and the other for burned matches. These boxes are of ample size to hold the paper drawer of a large box of parlor matches.

The hinged top is left on the box that is to hold the unburned matches. This box is soldered to two supporting brackets in such a manner that it is held away from the piece of tin forming the back for the two boxes and so that the lid of the upper box may be raised. The lower box is simply soldered to the back piece. Three folded strips of tin are soldered to the front of this second box to form a holder for a strip of sand paper to strike the matches on.

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