“Scenes must be beautiful which daily view’dPlease daily, and whose novelty survivesLong knowledge and the scrutiny of years.Praise justly due to those I now describe.”
“Scenes must be beautiful which daily view’dPlease daily, and whose novelty survivesLong knowledge and the scrutiny of years.Praise justly due to those I now describe.”
On the south-western side of the town is one of the most celebrated promenades in the kingdom, called The Quarry.
It is formed in a tract of verdant meadow ground of twenty-three acres, gradually sloping to the river Severn, along the banks of which are planted a graceful avenue of lime trees, extending 540 yards in length, whose lofty arching branches entwine themselves so as to resemble the long aisle of some religious fane.
Three other walks, planted in a similar manner, serve as approaches from the town to this the principal promenade, which being enlivened with many pleasing views, renders it in point of situation and beauty unrivalled.
Here the inhabitant may inhale the refreshing breeze wafted from the rippling river,—the invalid find a cool and sequestered retreat free from the noise of a bustling town,—while the mind alive to the charms of nature may enjoy its philosophic contemplations in the ever-changing beauties of the seasons.
A cluster of horse-chesnut and other trees growing in a dingle, and which in autumn present a beautifully variegatedmass of foliage, diversify what otherwise might be considered a formal arrangement of these walks, which were planted during the mayoralty of Henry Jenks, Esq. in 1719, and derive their name from a red sandstone which was formerly procured from this dingle.
On the opposite side of the meandering river is a verdant eminence fringed with luxuriant plantations.
At the north-western end of the Quarry, near Claremont, is a sloping bank, which originally formed an amphitheatre, called the “Dry Dingle,” where religious mysteries (or miracle plays) were celebrated. Prince Arthur, in 1494, attended one of these exhibitions, which were performed on this spot, even after the Reformation, by the head-schoolmaster, Mr. Ashton, and his pupils.
Crossing the ferry, at the extremity of the walk leading from the remains of this amphitheatre, and pursuing the footpath in the field to the left of the Boat-house, we reach an eminence from whence a prospect opens to the view combining water, hill, plain, and wood in charming variety. Continuing from hence to the right of the House of Industry, we arrive at
or, as written in an early Norman grant,Chingsland. This is an extensive piece of land, belonging to the ancient burgesses of Shrewsbury, thirty of whom in rotation annually receive four shillings and sixpence from its produce, in lieu of a “turn for their kine.” On this place the festival of Shrewsbury Show (described page109) is held, and it commands a prospect which stretches to a considerable distance over a beautiful and well-cultivated country, diversified with mountains possessing form and interest.
Returning to the front of the House of Industry, andpursuing the path from the bank on which that building stands, we cross the Severn by means of the ferry at the Can Office, and enter the pastures called “Stury’s Close” where the Earl of Pembroke, Lord President of the Marches, “mustered all the country, both of horsemen and footmen,” in 1588 (a year memorable for the defeat of the Invincible Armada), and soon reach
The Grey or Franciscan Friary
The remnant illustrated by the wood cut comprises probably the refectory, which was partly re-edificed as late as the reign of Henry the Eighth.
This religious society, sometimes called Friars Minors, settled in this town early in the thirteenth century. Hawis, wife to Charleton Lord of Powys (born in 1291), and heir of the ancient Princes of Powys Gwenwynwyn, was a great benefactress to this friary, if not its second foundress.
From the quantity of bones which have been found within the precinct of this convent, it would seem that no unprofitable use was made of the privilege granted to this order by the Pope of “liberam sepulturam.” This and their reputed sanctity, as well as the popular belief that whoever was buried in their cemetery or in the habit of a grey friar would be secure from the attacks of evil spirits and find an easy entrance into heaven, were circumstances doubtless of such importance as to induce many persons to desire sepulture among such hallowed men.
The splendid stained glass now in the eastern window of St. Mary’s chancel is supposed to have originally decorated the church of this friary, which was the burial place of the Lords of Powys.
On the opposite side of the river is the foundry and the suburb of Coleham.
Passing under the arch of the English Bridge, to the left are some modern dwellings on the site of a curious half-timbered mansion erected in the reign of Elizabeth by William Jones, an alderman and opulent draper of the town, and father of Thomas Jones, the first mayor of Shrewsbury. A view and description of this curious building, communicated by the author of these pages, will be found in vol. 99, part ii. of the Gentleman’s Magazine.
A few yards beyond stood
which comprehended nearly the whole space now occupied by gardens between the bridge and the water gate.[176]
This order of mendicants took their name from their founder, and were sometimes called “Preachers” from their office, and “Black Friars” from their dress.
The convent, like those of the Austin and Franciscan friars, was placed on the margin of the river, outside the walls and adjacent to the bridges.
From the rich architectural remains, &c. which have occasionally been dug up here, the church must have been a spacious and elegant building; but, in common with the other convents, it shared the fate of the dissolution of monasteries, and was sold by Henry the Eighth in 1543. The hand of man, combined with the operations of time, had, previously to 1823, left but few vestiges either of the convent where Richard and George Plantagenet, two sons of Edward the Fourth, were born, or the more recent fortifications erected on this interesting spot,—where several military transactions were determined in various periods of our domestic history.
The bank on which this friary stood was levelled in the above-mentioned year, when the foundations of several walls were cleared to a considerable extent, and numerous capitals, pieces of mullions, with remains of stained glass, enamelled tiles, &c. were discovered by the workmen employed in the construction of a new building and wharf. Several stone graves were also brought to view, the masonry of which was well finished, and formed so as nearly to fit the corpse. After clearing the soil from these tombs, skeletonswere found encased in red sand, but without the least trace of any thing in which the body might have been enveloped. The only remains of this once noble pile are the materials used in the construction of a stable and the wall surrounding the gardens. Adjoining is
The Waterlane Gateway
Through which the parliamentary army entered, Feb. 22d, 1644–5, and captured the town. The means by which this was accomplished showed much generalship and secrecy onthe part of the Parliamentarians. It appears a detachment of soldiers belonging to that party left Wem, and marched under the shadow of night to the extremity of the Castle-foregate, where the troopers halted at four o’clock in the morning, in order that the foot soldiers might effect an entrance by stratagem. The infantry turned off on the left to the river, being led by a puritanical minister of the town, named Huson, a kinsman of the celebrated John Huson, who from a cobbler rose to be a colonel and a member of the Barebones parliament.
The dismounted troopers were under the command of Benbow, who, being a native of Shrewsbury, was aware of the part most easily attacked. From the end of Castle-foregate they advanced through the fields to the castle ditch (now a thoroughfare), which was defended on the town side by strong palisading and a breastwork of earth. A boat on the river contained several carpenters and other persons, who commenced sawing down the paling near the river to effect a passage for the soldiers. This was soon accomplished, and by assisting one another over the ditch the breastwork was gained. Having succeeded thus far, they seem to have divided themselves into two divisions; the one party, headed by Benbow, scaled the wall on the eminence between the Watch Tower and the Council House, by means of light ladders. The main body, consisting of 350 men, entered by the gate shewn in the engraving, to which a tower and outwork was formerly attached. This, and a similar fort about the middle of the lane where the town wall crossed, yielded without resistance by the connivance of careless and treacherous sentinels, who are supposed to have been intoxicated and privy to the design. The party who had scaled the wall hastened to procure an entrance at the north or castle gate, which was soon done, and having let down the draw-bridge, the horse, withColonels Mytton and Bowyer at their head, made the best of their way to the main court of guard held in the Market-place, where they found their comrades engaged with the royalists. The loss on both sides was inconsiderable, amounting to only seven men and one captain. The castle surrendered about noon, when the garrison was immediately marched off to Ludlow, with the exception of thirteen poor Irishmen, who, being left to the tender mercies of the parliamentary leaders, were hanged the same day without trial.
Continuing the walk by the side of the river, the most prominent object is the tower on the castle mount, from whose lofty height a group of majestic trees decline to the banks of the Severn, which in this part bends gracefully over its gravelly bed. The pathway brings us to the island where a pageant took place in honour of Sir Henry Sidney (noticed page11). A little beyond, on the opposite side of the river, is the ferry for conveying horses across by which barges are towed up the stream.[179]The meadows into which we have passed comprised a portion of the ancient Derfald, or enclosure for the keeping of deer,—in other words a park, which may not inaptly be called
for it belonged to our first Norman earl, and in all probability to some of the Saxon monarchs. The situation of the ground, before it was stripped of its timber, possessed every advantage of pasture, water, and diversified surface.—According to the record of Domesday, it was the custom, when the king resided here, for twelve of the better sort of citizens to keep watch over him; and when he went out hunting, those having horses protected him. This practiceprobably arose in consequence of the murder of Alfhelm (an earl of the blood royal) in 1016, who, having been invited here and hospitably entertained by Ædric Streona (son-in-law to King Etheldred), was barbarously assassinated by a butcher while hunting, whom the perfidious Ædric had engaged for that purpose.
The boundaries of these pleasant fields bring us to the Shrewsbury canal, which for some distance beyond passes above the banks of the river; while from the canal towing-path numerous pleasing views may be obtained, affording an agreeable half-hour’s walk to the picturesque village of Uffington.
Retracing our steps along the green banks of the Severn, we arrive at a gentle ascent which leads to the promenade surrounding the prison. From hence the long ridge of Haughmond Hill, linked as it were to the noble Wrekin,—the stately character of the White Hall,—the patriotic Column in honour of Lord Hill,—the venerable Abbey Church, standing like a patriarch among its more modern compeers,—the Stretton Hills in the distance, and close at hand the frowning walls of the Castle, clad by nature’s hand with stains of sober hue, combine to attract the eye and the mind.
On a line with the front of the County Prison is
having at the top a fine colossal figure of Hercules, which was cast at Rome from the Farnese Hercules, and is no inapt memorial of the labour consequent upon the removal of upwards of 26,000 loads of soil in the formation of the street.
Passing to theDana Walk, “where the huge castle hold its state,” the prospect is bounded to the right by the eminences of Hawkstone, Grinshill, Pimhill, Almond Park,and the plain of “Battlefield.” Westward is Berwick House, embosomed in sylvan beauty, and beyond in the horizon are a range of Cambrian mountains, gradually fading into the clouds, which in point of colour they not unfrequently resemble. Among these may be particularly distinguished those gigantic landmarks between England and Wales,—the Breidden and Moelygolfa hills. The former rises to the height of 1000 feet, and has on the summit a pillar erected to commemorate the great victory obtained by Admiral Rodney over the French fleet in the West Indies, 1782.
By a modern archway opened through the wall abutting from the Castle at the time this walk was formed, in 1790, we are again brought within the walls. This part, however, of
extended in a line with the Castle Gates across the isthmus down to the banks of the river, having a corresponding barrier on the other side of the castle. It was erected by Robert de Belesme, third Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, under the idea that his father’s fortifications were not of sufficient strength to withstand a siege from the forces of Henry I. which in 1102 marched against him (page14).
An additional rampart called Roushill, enclosing the space between the wall of Earl Robert and the Welsh bridge, was added during the Commonwealth. These walls for many years served as a communication between the northern and western parts of the town; but in 1835 the more modern portion was nearly buried in the formation of a new road.
The New Theatre
Whenman is contemplated in the character of a being, who can be successfully addressed by an appeal to the passions and the understanding, the Drama, under proper restrictions, may be rendered serviceable.
I have heardThat guilty creatures, sitting at a play,Have, by the very cunning of the scene,Been struck so to the soul, that presentlyThey have proclaim’d their malefactions.Shakspeare.
I have heardThat guilty creatures, sitting at a play,Have, by the very cunning of the scene,Been struck so to the soul, that presentlyThey have proclaim’d their malefactions.
Shakspeare.
The old building used for the purpose of dramatic performance in this town, is said to have formed part of a royal dwelling of the Princes of Powys Land. Having long been ruinous, it was purchased by Mr. Bennett, the manager, and taken down in 1833. The erection of the present theatre on its site has been an important improvement to the thoroughfare leading to St. John’s Hill and the Quarry, as well as an ornament to the town. It forms a centre and two wings; the lower part consists of a rusticated base, upwards of 100 feet in length, fitted up as shops, with a house for the manager. Above is a continued string-course, from which rises two pilasters in each wing, supporting a frieze and cornice.
The windows are finished with architraves, and the front of the building displays three niches, containing statues of the immortal bardShakspeareand of theComicandTragic Muse, executed in compos by Mr. James Parry, a native of this town.
The interior of the theatre is conveniently arranged: in the centre is a dome, and the ceiling richly decorated with appropriate devices. The building is creditable to the taste of Mr. Bennett, whose spirited undertaking in this public improvement will no doubt be appreciated by the lovers of the drama. The new structure was opened Sept. 8th, 1834, under the patronage of the Mayor.
is a large brick building near the Welsh bridge, in whichequestrian performances occasionally take place. It is used on fair days as a butter and cheese market.
are annually held in the third week of September, and continue for three days. They are generally attended by the rank and fashion of the county, and attract a considerable influx of visitors to the town. The king contributes a plate of one hundred guineas.
was erected in 1777, at the back of the Lion Hotel, and is a commodious and tastefully decorated apartment, where most of the balls are held.
takes place about the middle of November, and brings to the town a respectable number of the nobility and gentry of the county, who pass a week with a president annually chosen from the members, while a fashionable ball gives additional hilarity to the meeting.
The Severn has long been celebrated for the excellency of its fish—salmon, pike, grayling, trout, perch, and many others. The votaries of the “Gentle Craft,” if not always gratified with excellent sport, or the finny tribe should sometimes not be disposed “to bite,” may find pleasure in the contemplation of the scenery around.
It must however be mentioned, and with regret, that the fishing of the river near the town has of late years been almost ruined by the daring excess of poaching with illegal nets, so as to threaten, as it were, the annihilation of the piscatory race, unless the laws are put in force for theirdefence. Some of the lesser streams near the town, however, afford a tolerable supply of good trout.
Much pleasant exercise and amusement is afforded on the Severn during the summer months. Several parties possess boats, and an emulation of skill is frequently excited among the more experienced rowers.
An annual gala is generally given by the young gentlemen of Shrewsbury School in the month of June.
Boats may be hired for the day at a moderate charge, and pic-nic parties take an excursion up the river to the picturesque and woody banks at Shelton, the shady groves near Berwick and the Isle, or downwards to the rural villages of Uffington, Atcham, &c. On a summer’s evening, when all is calm and serene, the sail is truly delightful.
comprise five separate districts, viz. Coton Hill, Castle Foregate, Frankwell, Abbey Foregate, and Coleham, containing a population equal to that within the walls.
In noticing these, it is purposed to commence where our walk terminated without the walls, viz. the Castle Gates, from whence the Castle Foregate and Coton Hill diverge. Taking the latter thoroughfare, to the left we enter Chester Street, into which a new line of road is opened, communicating with Mardol, and carried over the ancient fosse and through a portion of the wall erected by Robert de Belesme. A few yards further are
which supply every house in the remotest part of the town with water for domestic purposes, being raised from theriver by means of a steam engine, capable of throwing up 22,000 gallons in the hour. The Company was established under an act of parliament in 1830.[186]
Nearly opposite are
The Royal Baths, Coton-hill
affording conveniences equal to any which are to be found in the first-rate establishments of this kind in the kingdom, while the moderate terms and strict attention to cleanliness and comfort will, no doubt, ensure to them the patronage and support of the public. Hot air, vapour, shower, warm, salt, medicated, and fresh water baths are in constant readiness, and the pleasure bath is of sufficient dimensions to enable persons to learn the art of swimming.
The building is of a chaste design, the front being ornamented with a portico, supported by two Ionic pillars and two pilasters.
From the road, winding on the banks of the river, an imposing view of the town may be obtained, with a considerable portion of the walls by which it was formerly encompassed. A bold clump of trees on the right denotes
where the gallant Admiral Benbow was born in 1650, whose distinguished deeds in arms have rendered him an honour to our town and country. This brave sailor not only stood against the enemy in the memorable action off Carthagena, in August, 1702, until every hold was gone, but had to encounter the unparalleled treachery of those under his command. The operation of amputating his leg, which was shattered by a chain-shot in the late engagement, added to the deep mental anxiety occasioned by the base conduct of his captains, brought on a fever which terminated his career of glory November 4th, in the same year, universally lamented. His remains received the rites of sepulture in Kingston church, Jamaica.[187]
In the year 1828, a subscription was commenced in this town for the purpose of erecting some memorial inSt. Mary’s church (the parish in which he was born) commemorative of this distinguished Salopian, towards which our no less courageous townsman, Admiral Sir Edward Owen, K.C.B. with that frankness and honourable feeling so characteristic of the true British sailor, munificently contributed.
We now arrive at
where stood the suburban mansion of the Myttons of Halston, in which that family resided after vacating their town house of Vaughan’s Place. North-west of the turnpike was
in a pasture still called the Chapel Yard.[188]
Coton appears at a remote period to have been connected with the Suburb of Frankwell by a bank, which caused the river to spread over the meadows called the “Purditches,” forcing its waters from thence under Hencot and Cross Hill in a channel still strongly marked by its rising banks, and discernible at all times, especially during floods, until the stream found its way into the present channel near the Royal Baths. This is particularly evident at the foot of Cross Hill, one mile on the Ellesmere road, to the right of which a toll bar communicates with a pleasant lane, the ancient road to Berwick. From the brow of this lane, the old course of the Severn may be easily defined. From hence, also, the town unfolds itself with peculiar beauty backed by the frontier of Salopian and Cambrianmountains, increasing in variety and picturesque effect throughout this delightful rural walk, until we arrive at Marshall’s Factory, where a wooden bridge over the canal conducts again to the suburb of
the point from which we at first diverged. This long street has become a place of much traffic, owing to a communication having been opened, in 1835, with Birmingham, London, Liverpool, &c. by means ofThe Shrewsbury Canal, to and from which places goods are received into warehouses erected on its banks. This canal was originally formed in 1797, for the purpose of supplying the town and neighbourhood with coal, brought from Hadley, Ketley, &c. in the eastern part of Shropshire.
The canal terminates on the N.W. side of the County Prison, in a spacious
belonging to the Canal Company, where this indispensible necessary of life may be obtained, of excellent quality, at fifteen shillings per ton. Coal is also procured at the collieries of Welbatch and Uffington, three miles distant from the town.
anciently writtenFrankville, lies on the west side of the Welsh bridge, and is a township within the parish of St. Chad. In former times it suffered much from the ravages of the Welsh, being in the line of road to the principality, as it is now the thoroughfare to Holyhead.
The inquisitive eye of the antiquary will discover in this suburb many curious specimens of the half-timbered dwellings of our ancestors, one in particular, better known now as the “String of Horses,” appears, from initials, &c.over the chimney piece, to have been erected at least as early as 1576. To the left of this building is “New Street,” leading to Millington’s Hospital, Kingsland, &c. Roads also branch off to the village of Hanwood, and the mining districts of Pontesbury and Westbury.
Passing onward to the right is St. George’s church (page89), a short distance from which is the “Mount,” so called from a strong outwork erected during the civil wars, under the direction of Lord Capel, and in which he planted several pieces of cannon to protect the town. The garrison of this fort vigorously resisted the attacks of the parliamentarians, even after the town and castle had been captured. In the evening, however, of that day, they had no other alternative but to surrender upon bare quarter.
Near this fortification stood a religious house called Cadogan Chapel, which, in the third year of Edward VI. passed into lay hands. In 1604 it was remaining, though in a ruinous state, having been appropriated in that year as the “Pest House.”[190]
The precinct of this chapel probably extended as far as Millington’s Hospital, the site of the latter being to this day called “The Chapel Yard,” and in the gardens adjoining it skeletons have been found, while a strong yew-tree hedge, still visible at the western end of Cadogan Place, was no doubt its boundary in that direction, near which spot stood “Cadogan’s Cross,” where sermons in other days were occasionally delivered. The bailiffs’ accounts, for 1542, record the item of sixpence for wine given to the Lord President’s chaplain, preaching at Cadogan’s Cross on the Rogation day.The meadows below (on the banks of the Severn), called “Monks Eye,” were granted by Reginald Pinzun to the “Almonry” of Shrewsbury Abbey, in the reign of Henry III. previously to which they bore the appellation of “Crosfurlong.”
Extending our walk for one mile on the great Holyhead road (with the fine woods of Berwick on the opposite side of the river) we reach the township ofShelton, where are some neat suburban villas which unite architectural taste and rural decoration with beauty of situation and commanding prospects. At this place stands
famed from the tradition that Owen Glendower, in 1403, ascended its branches to ascertain the event of the Battle of Shrewsbury, a circumstance not unlikely when it is considered that the country was probably more open at that time than at present.
This champion of Welsh independence, it has been already shown, assembled his forces at Oswestry, from whence, according to Holinshed, he sent off only his first division, consisting of 4000 men, who behaved with spirit in the day of action. The Welsh historians, however, have censured his conduct on this occasion, and blame him for what it appears from some cause he was unable to effect, viz. in neglecting to attack Henry after the battle, when the royal forces had sustained a severe loss and were overcome with fatigue, and when his own followers and the remainder of the northern troops would have formed an army nearly double that of the king’s.
There are documents to prove that this oak was “a great tree” within 140 years after the Battle of Shrewsbury, and was an object of remark to old people long before. It is now a chronicle to the eye of the passing traveller, andto those who delight to be carried back into the depth of antiquity. Long may it be preserved from injury, and viewed as the natural historical monument of our vicinity; for Time has truly
Hollowed in its trunkA tomb for centuries; and buried thereThe epochs of the rise and fall of states,The fading generations of the world,The memory of man.
Hollowed in its trunkA tomb for centuries; and buried thereThe epochs of the rise and fall of states,The fading generations of the world,The memory of man.
According to a recent measurement, the tree is 41½ feet in height; the girth at the base is 44¼ feet, and at eight feet from the ground 27¼ feet.
The interior is hollow, consisting of little more than a shell of bark, forming an alcove capable of holding a dozen individuals; and notwithstanding the branches of this aged tree have borne the blast of many a wintry storm, still it may be said—
The SpringFinds thee not less alive to her sweet forceThan the young upstarts of the neighbouring woods,So much thy juniors, who their birth receivedHalf a millennium since the date of thine.
The SpringFinds thee not less alive to her sweet forceThan the young upstarts of the neighbouring woods,So much thy juniors, who their birth receivedHalf a millennium since the date of thine.
Passing over the English, or east bridge, from which there is a striking prospect of the town and the tower on the Castle Mount, we reach a small tract of ground, comprising a few houses, called
or,Murivale, probably from its connexion with the walls.
In reference to this it appears that in the early part of the 13th century, the abbot consented that the two plats of ground between the main road at the east end of the bridge should be left void for the purpose of erecting defences inthe time of war; hence Merivale subsequently became matter of frequent contest between the Corporation and the Abbey, as to the right of jurisdiction within it. This was not finally settled until the dissolution of the monastery, when Henry VIII. stating the “intimate affection” which he bears towards the town of Salop, and his desire “to do and shew favour to the bailiffs and burgesses,” grants that they and their successors may for ever enjoy all the liberties, privileges, &c. within the limits of the Abbey Foregate, including the hamlet of Merivale, in as ample manner as they were enjoyed by the last abbot or his predecessors.
Leaving the National School to the right,
next claim our notice, and although now very inconsiderable, yet, like most other Abbeys, they originally consisted chiefly of two quadrangular courts of different dimensions, the conventual church, as was customary, being towards the north. Situated on the other sides were the refectory, almonry, chapter house, dormitory, locutory or parlour, infirmary, guest hall or hospitium, kitchen, and other domestic offices. The abbot’s house or lodging commonly formed one or more portions of the smaller quadrangle, and consisted of a complete mansion.
This Abbey, bereft of its endowments by the reforming spirit of Henry VIII. shared the fate of other similar foundations in the rapine of the dissolution; the buildings connected therewith were sold, and soon afterwards despoiled of their constituent parts, chiefly for the value of the materials, while portions were converted into dwellings and other purposes, or left quietly to moulder into decay.
Of the remains which have excited most attention is an elegant octagonal
Stone Pulpit
from which one of the junior monks was accustomed to read to his brethren while seated at their meals. Its situation, one half resting on the ruined wall of the Refectory, indisputably proves this; looking outward of the site of that building it forms a small bay window, while the other portion, once inside the hall, is supported on a moulded bracket, which springs from a corbel originally carved as a head. From hence it projects to the basement of the floor, twelve feet from which rises a conical roof sustained on six narrow pointed arches, having trefoil heads.
The interior forms a beautiful oriel, the roof being vaulted on eight delicate ribs, at the intersection of which in the centre is a boss of comparatively large dimensions; on this is beautifully sculptured The Crucifixion, with St.John and the Virgin Mary at the foot of the cross, enclosed under a trefoil arch flanked by buttresses. The spaces of the three northern arches, looking inwards, are filled with embattled stone panels about three feet high, on which are enshrined several figures of saints, &c.
This interesting relic is approached from the garden by a flight of steps through a small doorway worked originally, it is considered, within the thickness of the wall of the refectory.
The south wing of what is supposed to have been part of the monk’s infirmary, chapel, &c. remains south-west of the church. It is now appropriated as a malthouse, and may be distinguished by its lofty gables. A similar building converted into dwellings stood near the street, and was connected with the above by an embattled ruin flanked by massive piers, between which were square windows divided by a transom. This was an imposing feature to our monastic remains, and truly venerable from its antiquity, having braved the storms and tempests of nearly one thousand years, but was taken down without a feeling of forbearance in 1836, and the materials applied for the foundations of two houses adjoining its site.
The present Abbey house is supposed to have been the guest hall, or hospitium, to the east of which three pointed arches, once forming part of a groined ceiling, denote the abbot’s lodging.
Of the chapter house, where the members of the monastery assembled to transact their official business, not a relic is left; but in excavating near its site, in 1836, a leaden seal was found, which had been once appended to a bull from the Pope, whose name is thus inscribed on it, INNOCENTIVS. PP. IIII.
The monks of this Abbey, in the third year of PopeInnocent IV. i.e. 1246, obtained a bull, setting forth the injuries committed against their lands, tithes, possessions, &c. by the monastery of Lilleshull, by which the dean and precentor of Lichfield were directed to convoke the parties and hear the cause.
The dormitory was attached to the south-west side of the church, and was cut through in the formation of a new line of road in 1836.
What a train of reflections, loudly bespeaking the vicissitudes of life, may be called forth during our walk along this new thoroughfare. Who is there, it may be asked, with a mind to think and a heart to feel, that can thoughtlessly pass over ground which has been distinguished in history, without a momentary reflection upon its former importance?
Within the Chapter House, which stood on a portion of this road, occurred the earliest authorized assembly of that popular representation in the constitution of this kingdom, to which, under Providence, Englishmen have been indebted for all their subsequent prosperity,—all their energies, and that noble independence which have characterized us as a people among nations.[196]
Here, too, Richard the Second gratified his fondness for magnificence, by entertaining the members of his parliament with a sumptuous feast, and, as if to dazzle by the splendour of monarchy, and to awe by military display, he was attired in his royal robes, and attended by a numerous guard of Cheshire men.
The fervent orisons of a grateful heart have here been uplifted—divinity and other important subjects discussed—and on this spot the nobility, gentry, abbots, priors, deans, &c. of Shropshire, have frequently congregated, and banished for a time the gloomy silence and sable garb of the brotherhood,and exchanged the sober gravity of the refectory, and its austere monkish repast, for wine and wassail, minstrelsey and song.
Before quitting these scattered ruins, the present remains of the Abbey church must excite feelings of regret in the breast of every admirer of our ancient architecture, at the mistaken zeal which caused its partial and barbarous demolition.
An embattled wall encompassed the northern and eastern sides of the precinct, beyond which is theForegate, a respectable open street, nearly one mile in length, and chiefly occupied by private residences. The houses to the south have gardens which extend to the Reabrook, and command delightful prospects of the adjacent country. This suburb (April 1st, 1774) suffered considerably from a fire, which destroyed 47 dwellings, 16 barns, 15 stables, 4 shops, and several stacks of hay, beside damaging other property.
On the left, half way up the street, is
So called from a practice, during the last century, of occasionally colouring its deep red walls. Our native poet (Churchyard) speaks of this stone mansion in his usual quaint manner, as standing “so trim and finely that it graceth all the soil it is in.” In front is a handsome gatehouse; and the pointed gables, central cupola, and ornamental chimnies, strongly characterise it as an interesting specimen of the old English residence peculiar to the reign of Elizabeth, while its sombre appearance is finely set forth by the vivid foliage of walnut and other trees adjoining. The interior has been modernised, and forms a comfortable habitation. The building was commenced in 1578 byRichard Prince, Esq. a celebrated lawyer, and was his manorial residence. It now belongs to the Right Rev. the Bishop of Lichfield, by purchase from Earl Tankerville.
The White Hall Mansion
A few yards distant is
called the “Soldier’s Piece,” from the circumstance of Charles the First having drawn up his army here (page11).
Situated within a very few minutes’ walk of the town,it may in most points compete with all the secondary courses in the kingdom. It is one mile and 185 yards in circumference, and in addition to a fine straight run for coming-in of 500 yards, possesses the advantage of a sight of the horses throughout the race, combined with an extensive panoramic view of the adjacent richly diversified country; while the town, from so many points picturesque, has from hence a most pleasing appearance.
It may be remarked that this race course is formed on a plan, it is believed, not previously adopted, the arrangement being such as to provide for any distance, from half a mile to four miles, the different lengths being conveniently fixed and marked with letters on short posts inside the course; a reference to which is placed in the winning chair for the information of the public.
A footpath through the meadows near the Hall conducts to the east end of Abbey-foregate, and the noble Column erected on the great London road in commemoration of the military achievements of Lord Hill, who, on his return to his native county, in 1814, was welcomed into Shrewsbury by his countrymen with all the splendid honours attendant upon a triumphal hero. The most enthusiastic rejoicings took place, and upwards of 20,000 persons assembled to witness the festivities, &c. provided on the occasion in the Quarry.
Leaving the venerable church of St. Giles to the left, and proceeding about one mile to the right, along a pleasant walk embellished throughout by an interesting prospect, we reach the saline and chalybeate spring called
situated in a retired dell near the margin of the Reabrook, and the property of the Right Hon. Lord Berwick.
The spring issues from a rocky stratum of ash-colouredclay, or argillaceous schistus. The water is colourless, and exhales a faint sulphureous smell, much more perceptible in rainy weather. It has been compared with the Cheltenham water, but in reality bears a stronger affinity to sea water, possessing, however, an advantage over that in containing iron. In those cases, therefore, for which sea water is usually recommended it has been found most beneficial, and proves highly serviceable in the treatment of glandular affections, scrofula, and other diseases of the skin. A tumbler glassful operates as a brisk aperient.
The following analysis of the water was recently read at one of the scientific meetings of the Shropshire Natural History Society:—
Eleven cubic inches of the water contain about half a cubic inch of carbonic acid, partly free and partly in a combined state, a quarter of a cubic inch of atmospheric air, and a trace of sulphuretted hydrogen.Sixteen fluid ounces contain of—Iodine and bromine, each a traceCarbonate iron, about 0.7 grain— lime and siliceous earth, each a traceAnhydrous muriate magnesia, 8.8 grains— — lime, 30 grains— — soda, 121.3 grains.[200]
Eleven cubic inches of the water contain about half a cubic inch of carbonic acid, partly free and partly in a combined state, a quarter of a cubic inch of atmospheric air, and a trace of sulphuretted hydrogen.
Sixteen fluid ounces contain of—
Iodine and bromine, each a trace
Carbonate iron, about 0.7 grain
— lime and siliceous earth, each a trace
Anhydrous muriate magnesia, 8.8 grains
— — lime, 30 grains
— — soda, 121.3 grains.[200]
The importance of this spring is generally acknowledged, and it is matter of regret that proper accommodations for the advantageous use of the water have not been more effectually provided. A stone cistern, within a little shed, is the only receptacle for the water, the refuse from which, after being confined within a covered drain for a few yards,flows into the brook, and has produced an artificial morass, whose surface (from the deposition of iron oxyd) is covered with an ochery scum.
The care of the spring and baths is entrusted to the occupier of a cottage on the spot.
On an elevated situation in an adjoining meadow stands the primitive parish church of Sutton, a characteristic specimen of the little Norman churches erected in villages. The west front is crowned with a cupola, and displays a modern window, but those on the other sides of the fabric are of the earliest kind, narrowing towards the exterior surface of the wall. The town may be regained by different routes over the meadows, which lead to
situated on the southern banks of the river, where the Meole or Rea brook joins the Severn. This was until the present century the lowest part of the town, and consequently most liable to be inundated by floods; but of late years the street has been raised about nine feet.
The township is populous, and consists of two districts, called Longden Coleham and Meole Coleham from their respective thoroughfares to those villages. In the latter direction is Trinity Church, and in the former the extensive foundry of Mr. Hazledine, where the iron-work used in the construction of that surprising proof of human ingenuity, the “Menai Bridge,” was cast, and proved by an engine whose pressure was calculated at thirty-seven tons.
Our town for more than three centuries possessed almost exclusively the trade with Wales in a coarse kind of cloth called Welsh webs, which were brought from Merionethshire and Montgomeryshire to a market held hereweekly. In reference to this, Camden, in his “Britannia,” published in 1586, writes of Shrewsbury—“It is a fine city, well inhabited, and of good commerce; and by the industry of the citizens and their cloth manufacture and their trade with the Welsh, is very rich, for hither the Welsh commodities are brought as to the common mart.”
The termination of this branch of commerce is an event of too much importance to be passed over. It is thus graphically alluded to by Messrs. Owen and Blakeway: “Every Thursday the central parts of the town were all life and bustle; troops of hardy ponies, each with a halter of twisted straw, and laden with two bales of cloth, poured into the Market-place in the morning, driven by stout Welshmen in their country coats of blue cloth and striped linsey waistcoats.”
At two o’clock the drapers, with their clerks and shearmen, assembled under the Market-house, and proceeded up stairs (according to ancient usage) in seniority. The market being over, drays were seen in all directions conveying the cloths to the several warehouses, and more than six hundred pieces of web have been sold in a day. The whole was a ready money business; and as the Welshmen left much of their cash behind them in exchange for malt, groceries, and other shop goods, the loss of such a trade to the town may be easily conceived. This took place about the year 1795, and was occasioned by individuals (not members of the Shrewsbury fraternity of drapers) travelling into those parts where the goods were made, from which the manufacturers soon learnt that they might find a mart for their goods at home without the trouble and expence of a journey to the walls of Amwythig. In March, 1803, the company relinquished the great room over the market-hall, where they had for nearly two centuries transacted their business, and though much traffic in flannels was subsequentlycarried on in the town, the total extinction of this branch of our local commerce is fast approaching, from the market having diverged to Welshpool, Newtown, and Llanidloes, where the advantages of machinery are now substituted for manual labour in its manufacture.
The cessation of the woollen market in this town has been ascribed to the improvement of the roads in Wales, which opened a more free communication to the interlopers of the Drapers’ company; and this again afforded some compensation to the town for the loss of this branch of its trade. For if Shrewsbury was no longer the emporium of North Wales, it was becoming the centre of communication between London and Dublin; and the agriculture of the neighbourhood and the trade of the town received a new impulse from the vast increase of posting and stage coaches, but far inadequate to the advantage which it derived from its trade in Welsh woollens and the weekly visits of the Cambrian farmers.
That Shrewsbury, however, may reap the full benefit of its central situation as the great thoroughfare from whence all the roads into North Wales diverge, and being also the general market of the surrounding country, acknowledged to be one of the finest agricultural districts in the kingdom, it is highly expedient that our town should possess the advantage of aRailwaycommunicating with the great lines to Birmingham, London, Liverpool, &c.
Prospectuses have been issued showing the eligibility of the plan, and the position in which the trade and general intercourse of the town will be placed if unprovided with those facilities of cheap and expeditious conveyance enjoyed by other large towns; and when it is considered that a great portion of the provisions which supply the thickly-populated neighbourhoods of Wolverhampton, Bilston, Birmingham, &c. are purchased at our weekly markets andmonthly fairs, and the deficient and expensive means of transit on this line, a Railway would produce incalculable benefit to the town by an increased traffic, and thereby contribute to reinstate it in that important situation which it once held asthe Emporium of North Wales.
The chief manufactories at present are the extensive concern of Messrs. Marshall for thread and linen yarns, three iron foundries, and Messrs. Jones and Pidgeon’s for tobacco and snuff. The vicinity being a good barley country, the malting business is carried on to a considerable extent, and divided among sixty maltsters. Glass-staining has been brought to the highest state of perfection in this town, completely disproving assertions made some few years since that the powers of this ancient science had then extended almost beyond the hope of eventual excellence. The gothic chain, however, which for so long a period had confined the mystery of this beautiful art, once, indeed, considered as entirely lost, has been effectively broken by our townsman, Mr. D. Evans, of whose productions our churches and many other ecclesiastical buildings and noblemen’s mansions in different parts of the kingdom afford specimens, contending in effect with some of the finest works of the ancient masters.
Among thedelicaciesfor which our town is so deservedly celebrated may be mentioned a most deliciousCake,[204]of which but few strangers in passing through fail to partake, especially if they have read the encomium of the poet Shenstone:
“For here each season do these cakes abide,Whose honoured names th’ inventive city own,Rend’ring through Britain’s isle Salopia’s praises known.”
“For here each season do these cakes abide,Whose honoured names th’ inventive city own,Rend’ring through Britain’s isle Salopia’s praises known.”
Shrewsbury Cakesappear to have been presentedto distinguished personages on their visit to this town as early as the reign of Elizabeth; and when their Royal Highnesses the Duchess of Kent and the Princess Victoria arrived here in 1832, they were graciously pleased to accept a box of them from the Mayor.
The Simnelmade here is much admired, and great quantities of this kind of cake are prepared about the season of Christmas and Lent. The word is supposed to have been derived from the Latinsimila, signifying fine flour; but the common tradition fixes its origin to a dispute between a man named “Simon” and his wife “Nell.” One of them was desirous that the plum pudding should be baked, while the other insisted that it should be boiled: neither party being disposed to yield, it was therefore first boiled and afterwards baked (the processes that it now undergoes), and thus produced Sim-nell. The exterior crust, or shell (enclosing a compound of fruit) is hard, and deeply tinged with saffron.
The Shrewsbury Brawnis unrivalled, and has lately been patronised by His Majesty William the Fourth. Brawn is a Christmas dish of great antiquity, and may be found in most of the ancient bills of fare for coronations and other great feasts. “Brawn, mustard, and malmsey” were directed for breakfast during the reign of Elizabeth; and Dugdale, in his account of the Inner Temple Revels, states the same directions for that society. It is prepared from the flesh of boars fattened for the purpose.
Shrewsbury Alehas been commended from a remote period.Iolo Goch, the bard of Owen Glendower, eulogises the profusion with which “Cwrw Amwythig,” or Shrewsbury Ale, was dispensed in the mansion of his hero at Sycarth, which he seems to have visited previously to the insurrection of 1400.
In the last century the properties of this beverage were thus extolled:—
“Hops, Water, and Barley, are here of the best,Your March and October can well stand the test;The body is plump, and the visage ne’er pale,That imbibes, or is painted, withShrewsbury Ale.”
“Hops, Water, and Barley, are here of the best,Your March and October can well stand the test;The body is plump, and the visage ne’er pale,That imbibes, or is painted, withShrewsbury Ale.”
The market days are Wednesdays and Saturdays. The former is small, but that on the latter day is well attended and abundantly supplied. In fact, few towns enjoy the advantage of a better or cheaper supply of meat, poultry, butter, vegetables, fruit, &c. But it must be confessed that many places of far less importance than the capital of Shropshire possess more suitable accommodations befitting the ample produce brought from the surrounding districts to its markets.
The space allotted for the sale of vegetables is in the spacious square opposite the County Hall, commonly called the “Green Market;” that for poultry, eggs, &c. on Pride Hill and in the Butter Cross. The shambles for butchers’ meat is in a street called “the Double Butcher Row;” and in Fish-street, near St. Julian’s church, are sheds and stands for the country butchers. The corn mart is held under the old market house.
The fair for the sale of horses, cattle, butter, cheese, &c. is held on the second Wednesday in every month; and that for sheep and pigs on the preceding day. It has long been in contemplation to form a proper “Smithfield” for cattle, &c. which are now disposed of in the streets, much to the annoyance of passengers. The wool fairs are in July and August.
This beautiful stream, the queen of rivers,—famed in British story and noticed by classic historians,—the theme of poets and the admiration of tourists, is next in importance to the Thames.
It rises in Plinlimmon mountain, Montgomeryshire, and pursues its course through that county, receiving in its meanderings numberless tributary streams, and presenting to proud Salopia the richest variety of picturesque scenery. After winding sixty or seventy miles through the centre of Shropshire, passing Worcester, &c. it at length becomes “a mighty river, potent, large,” and empties itself into the Bristol Channel, fifty miles below Gloucester.
is free for barges from thirty to eighty tons burden, during the whole of its course throughout Shropshire, which are towed up the stream by horses belonging to a company; but the navigation is liable to interruption from high and rapid floods in winter, and occasional want of depth of water in summer.
Present an agreeable variety of pleasant drives and interesting walks, unfolding from most points some changing feature of landscape scenery, insulated, or grouped in picturesque masses, and interspersed with lofty hills, which afford an imposing back-ground to the town, producing a succession of rich and varied prospects calculated to interest the lover of nature, while the artist, the antiquary, the botanist, or the geologist, may find an ample field for the cultivation of their respective pursuits.
The limited plan of the present work will only admit of a very brief notice of some of those objects that might claim the attention of the enquiring stranger, or present themselves in the course of a drive.
Three miles N.E. by N. of Shrewsbury. Perhaps few events, so recent and of such importance in the annals of our country, have left so few local traditions to awaken the dream of ancient chivalry as the Battle of Shrewsbury.
The site of this momentous conflict for the crown of England is no longer unenclosed, but seems thriving with the culture of centuries of peace. Some armour and military weapons occasionally turned up remind us of the event, or, but for the Church piously founded by King Henry the Fourth, in commemoration of his victory over Hotspur, Douglas, Worcester, and the rebel army, we might rejoice that the breath of tranquillity has hushed the tale of death.
The many associations, however, connected with this event, are not easily banished from the mind during a visit to this spot, particularly when it is considered that it afforded matter for the classic pen of Shakspeare.
According to the foundation of King Henry the Fourth, consisted of five secular canons, and among other endowments possessed the churches of St. Michael within the Castle of Shrewsbury, and also St. Julian’s, in the same town. The clear annual revenues of the college at the dissolution being £54. 1s. 10d. as stated by Tanner.
Battlefield Church
The fabric, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, stands inthe centre of a pasture field, and consists of a nave, chancel, and finely proportioned tower, crowned with eight pinnacles and a richly decorated frieze and parapet. The choral division, from the style of the windows, was undoubtedly erected in the time of the founder, and the western portion under the auspices of the Very Reverend Adam Grafton, Dean of the Collegiate Church of St. Mary, Shrewsbury, Archdeacon of Salop, &c. &c. a person of great eminence in his day, and who possessed much architectural taste. His name is inscribed on the east side of the tower as warden of the college in 1504. Length of the church, including the tower, 94 feet.
The roof of the nave and chancel having fallen in from decay early in the last century, the latter was restored and supported by four doric pillars. The interior is neat.
In the south wall is the piscina and the sedilia for the officiating priests. In one of these is a curious wooden figure, called “Our Lady of Pity.” It represents the Virgin seated and bearing on her knees a dead Christ.
The eastern window is of five divisions, and contains some remains of the stained glass with which this church was once enriched. The other portion having been taken down during a repair of the fabric some years since, was either lost or destroyed, through the negligence of the person to whom it was entrusted.
The subjects comprised a history of the death of John the Baptist, with various portraits of the knights who fell on the King’s side in the battle at this memorable place. The crowned heads of King Henry the Fourth and his Queen, the portraits of a bishop or abbot, and the head of John the Baptist in a charger, may yet be distinguished, and are tastefully pencilled. The red and yellow colours throughout are particularly vivid. A beautiful border offoliage, with a mutilated inscription, is at the base of the window.
At the east end of the north wall is a handsome florid gothic monument to the memory of the late John Corbet, Esq. of Sundorne, who died in 1817. The basement is after the model of an ancient altar tomb, from whence rises five panelled buttresses with mouldings supporting the canopy, which consists of four pointed ogee arches crocketed and crowned with finials. The interior is a richly groined vault, and at the angles are small turrets. The whole is beautifully worked in grained free-stone from the neighbouring quarry of Grinshill.
The nave of the church is roofless: on each side are three elegant mullioned windows, with tracery of different devices. In the walls are corbels formed into grotesque heads, on which rested the timbers that supported the roof.
The shaft of the ancient font (sunk in the ground) stands at the north-east angle of the pointed arch which separates the nave from the tower. The second floor of the tower is singularly furnished with a fire-place, having a chimney formed within the thickness of the wall and opening outside beneath the belfry window.
A tabernacled niche above the chancel window contains the crowned statue of Henry the Fourth: the right hand once sustained a sword, and on the same side also hangs the scabbard.
The college stood at the east end of the church, the moat which surrounded it being still visible. Near this part is a field called the “King’s Croft,” in which were placed a portion of the royal army. The troops of Hotspur appear to have been chiefly stationed on the north side.
On the south side of the church is a small cemetery, in which is deposited the remains of the late Rev. Edward Williams, M.A. who for nearly half a century was theMinister of this parish—loved and honoured by his flock as a spiritual father, and the remembrance of whose virtues and christian instruction still lingers like a lovely twilight. He died January 3d, 1833, aged 70 years.[212]
Is four miles distant from hence. The village is picturesquely sequestered beneath the extensive stone quarries, of which great use has been made in the bridges, churches, and public buildings of Salop. About the year 1630 a large stone building was erected at this place for the reception of the scholars under instruction at the Royal Free Grammar School during the time any contagious disorder might prevail in the town. It is now used as a private classical and commercial school.
Being six miles further in this direction, is consequently beyond the prescribed limit of my pen. I cannot forbear, however, to remark that the scenery in the park is truly grand, and the objects which meet the eye are varied and interesting, consisting of a succession of hills and dales, rocks and caverns, connected together in a comparatively small space. The walks are twelve miles round, and theobelisk erected on the terrace of the park commands a prospect one hundred miles in diameter.
Amid this beautiful natural scene, the hand of art has introduced many interesting features calculated to interrupt for an interval the associations of the mind, that it might return with renewed vigour and fresh delight to the enjoyment of the more exalted feast of contemplative wonder, which nature has so lavishly bestowed on this elysian spot. The noble proprietor kindly permits visitors to gratify themselves with a walk over the grounds.