Historical Observations relating toConstantinople. By the Reverend and LearnedTho. Smith, D. D. Fellow ofMagd. Coll. Oxon.and of theRoyal Society.

Constantinople, formerlyByzantium, was[1]byConstantinethe Great, called so after his own Name, who being mightily pleased with the beautiful and advantageous situation of the Place between two Seas, and defended by narrow Streights on both sides, removed the Seat of the Empire hither, and laid the foundation of its future Splendor and Greatness. It was also by a[2]special Edict or Law of the same Emperor, which he caused to be engraven on a Marble Pillar, placed near his own Statue on Horse-back, in one of the Piazza's of his new built City calledStrategium, where the Soldiersused to Muster, as in theCampus Martius, calledsecond or new Rome, in emulation of oldRome, which he designed and endeavoured this should equal in all things. Accordingly he endowed it with the same Priviledges and Immunities, and established the same number of Magistrates and Orders of People, and divided the whole extent of it into fourteen Precincts or[3]Regions, according to the division ofRome. And theGreekWriters were as elegant and extravagant in their commendations of it; but the usual Title in their ordinary Discourses and Writings, when they had occasion to mention it without any flourish, was ἡ βασιλευούσα, ἡ βασιλίς, that is, the Imperial City, to the same sense with that of[4]Sidonius Apollinaris,

Salve sceptrorum columen, Regina orientis,Orbis Roma tui.

The Country about it was afterwards calledRomaniain a limited and restrained sense, (for thatRomaniawas anciently the same withorbis Romanus, seems clear from[5]Epiphanius) and the People Ρωμαῖοι. But I supposethis was not done till about the middle times of the Empire, when it began to decline. TheGreeksstill retain this Name. For if you ask any of theGreeksborn upon the Continent ofThrace, what Country Man he is? he answers forthwith, ΡωμαῖοςRomios, for so they pronounce it. TheTurksin like manner call aGreekChristianUrum Gaour, or the Roman Infidel, as they will call sometimes the Emperor ofGermany,Urumler Padishaor Emperor of theRomans. Hence it was, that the latterGræcianEmperors stiled themselves βασιλεῖς Ρωμαίων, Kings of the Romans, that is, such as were Born inRomaniaand the other Countries, which made up the Eastern division of the Empire. Tho' perchance by this flourishing Title they pretended a right to the Government of the West: Upon which vain presumption they assumed also the Title of Κοσμοκράτορες, or Emperors of the World, as if they had been the true Successors ofAugustus, and the Western Emperors, Usurpers, whom they called by way of contempt and indignation, Ρῆγες, Reges, as[6]Luitprandusinforms us in the accompt of his Embassy toNicephorus Phocas, and afforded the People ofItalyno other Title than that of[7]LongobardsorLombards. The presentGreekscall all the Western Christians Λατῖνοι or φράγγοιLatinsorFranks, theTurksonly making use of the latter, when they speak civilly of us, and callingChristendomPhrenkistan, in the presentGreekφραγγία. TheTurksnow as proudly callConstantinopleAlem pena, or the refuge of theWorld: Where indeed seems to be a medley of all or most Nations of three parts of it, and of all Religions, which are allowed to be publickly profest and exercised every where throughout the Empire, except thePersian. For they look upon it as a corruption of, and deviation from the Rules and Doctrine ofMahomet, their great false Prophet, and therefore absolutely forbid it, as repugnant to, and destructive of the Doctrine of Life and Salvation, as they speak. And accordingly they condemn with all imaginable fury the Professors of it, who pretend to followAli, as Sectaries and Apostates, and entertain worse Opinions of them, than ofChristians, orJewsorInfidels. ThePersiansare not behind-hand with them in their hatred and disrespect, deriding them as gross and stupid, and looking upon them as little less than barbarous; Interest and Zeal for their several Tenets heightning their differences so much, that in time of War they destroy one anothersMoschs. I remember, that there was a great Discourse inConstantinopleamong theTurksconcerning an impudent hot-headedPersian, who publickly in the newMoschbuilt by the Mother of the present Emperor, asserted thatAliwas equal toMahomet. But it seems he very luckily made his escape out of their Hands, at which the Priests and the more zealousTurkswere very much scandalized.

TheGreekshave twenty six Churches within the Walls of the City, besides 6 inGalata, of which I have given an Account elsewhere. They have also two Churches atScutari, oneatKadikuiorChalcedon. So atStaurosis,Chingilkui, and several other Villages upon the Asian Shore off the Bosphorus, as atBeshictash,Ortakui,Chorouch chesme, which Church is dedicated to St.Michalthe Archangel,JenikuiorNeochorion,Therapia,Bujukdere, and other Villages on theEuropeanside. They have also a Church atHaskui, where is their Burying place, and another near theBagnio, dedicated to St.Parasceve. And atTatoulaabout a Mile fromPera, upon a Hill, which from the Name of the Church is thence called by theGreeksandFranks, St.Demetriushis Hill. Next to the holy Virgin, St.Demetriusand St.Georgehave most Churches dedicated to them.

TheArmenianshave not, if I remember aright, above seven Churches; they being few in number in comparison of theGreeks.

TheJewsmay have in the City and places adjacent between twenty and thirty Synagogues, this being the greatest shelter of that accursed contemptible People in the Grand Signiors Dominions, next toCaireandSaloniki: and I believe there may be about twenty or thirty thousand families of them. They are of great use and service to theTurks, upon accompt of their Brocage and Merchandise, and Industry in several mechanical Trades. All these I look upon as Natives, or Slaves rather, each paying mony for his Head every year. TheJewsindeed very wisely collect this Tax among themselves, and according to an agreement made with theTeftardaror Treasurer, pay a certain sum in gross for their whole Nation residing there: by which pieceof cunning they are great gainers, and spare the poor among them less able to pay, by a contribution of the rich to make up the sum. TheEnglishandDutchAmbassadors have their Chappels in their Palaces common to their respective Nations.

The Churches and Chappels of the WesternChristiansof theRomanCommunion inGalata, are

St.Peters, belonging to theDominicans, where is the famous piece ofMadonna di Constantinopolisas theItalianscall it, or of the blessed Virgin, holding the holy ChildJesusin her arms: which they pretend to be drawn by the hand of St.Luke, celebrated by some of the latter Ecclesiastical Writers to have been a famous Painter. Out of respect to this idle tradition the credulous and superstitiousLatinsandGreeksof theRomanCommunion shew great veneration to it, which otherwise hath little in it of proportion, art, or beauty, to derive any reputation upon the designer, or upon his work.

St.Francis, belonging to theConventuali, Friars of the order of St.Francis; the ground of this by the wise conduct and intercession ofCaviliere Molino, the VenetianBailo, after the surrender ofCandia, upon the Peace made by the Republick with the Grand Signior, was procured to be restored, and a handsome Church rebuilt with the large contributions of mony sent out ofChristendom.

St.Benedict, belonging to theJesuits, where is a rich Altar curiously adorn'd with several figures inMosiack. This Convent was purchased for them by their great Benefactor,Henrythe fourth ofFrance.

St.Mary, belonging to theObservantinesorZoccolanti, a branch of the order of St.Francis, so called from their going inZoccolior wooden clogs.

TheCapuchineshave a little Chappel dedicated to St.George, hard by theFrenchAmbassadors Palace.

St.Ann, a Chappel frequented by thePerotes.

St.Pauland St.Anthony, were both taken away some years since from theChristians, and turned intoMoschs. The former of which is now known by the name ofArab Giamesi, or the Mosch of theArabians. Our Interpreters mentioned also to me the Church of St.John, which theTurkshave seized upon for their use, St.George, which theJewsare possest of, and St.Sebastian, which was used to be visited chiefly on Holy days.

The North-wind blows for the most part atConstantinople. Which must be ascribed to its nearness to theEuxineSea, which bears that point from it. So that for want of a Southwardly wind Ships have been forced to lye a month or two sometimes near the mouth of theHellespont. This was taken notice of long since byEunapiusin the life ofÆdesius, who ascribes the seldom blowing of theSouthwind to the situation of the mountains, whereas it is checked and overpowered by the exuberance of the Vapours continually sent forth from theblackandgreat Sea, as theGreekscall it in comparison of theMediterranean.Vide ad finem Codini de origin. Constantinopol. Edit. Paris. Pag. 80.

TheHellespontis about forty miles in length,and at the Castles ofSestosandAbydosthe streight may be about three quarters of an English mile over, or less.

The length of thePropontisis about a hundred and fifty miles, both shores may be seen in the middle of it. In it are,

Cyzicus, an Island near theAsianshore, to which it is joined by two bridges. It still retains its ancient name Κυζικὸ, and is the seat of a Bishop, being inhabited by a considerable number ofGreeks.

Proconnesus, not far from the former; now, as for some centuries past, calledMarmora, from the excellent quarries of Marble there found, the marmorCyzenicumalso being famous in the time ofPliny.

Besbychus, now called by the Greek καλόλιμνο, or the good haven, not far from the entrance into the bay ofMontaneato the North and by East. TheTurkscall itImralme.

There are several Islands over against the bay ofNicomedia, formerly calledSinus Astacenus, according toStrabo, about six or seven leagues fromConstantinople.[8]

Prote, so called because they approach first to it, coming fromConstantinople; to the South of thisPrencipeandPytis, which I take to be the same withPyrgos, that lyes inmost toward the bay:Chalcitis, in modern Greek,ChalceorChalcis.OxiaandPlatyto the North-west. I have expressed theTurkishnames of the lesser and uninhabited islands elsewhere, which perchance were phantastically imposed by someFranks.

TheSeragliois at the extreme point of the North-east Angle ofConstantinople, whereformerly stood oldByzantium, within which towards the Haven is a statelyKioskor summer house, from whence theGrand Signiorusually takes Barge, when he passes intoAsia, or diverts himself upon theBosphorus, at which time theBostangi Bashi, who hath the principal care of the Emperors palace, and hath the command of theBosphorus, sits at the helm and steers.

The seven Towers are at the South-east extremity.

The only Suburbs are to the North-west, along the Haven-side; for above the hill, where the three walls begin, lies an open champaign Country, except that here and there at considerable distances farm houses are scatter'd.

The Haven runs in from the West, and so opens East.

At the East end ofGalataisTophana, where they cast their great Guns.

PeraandGalatahave about six gates to the Seaward. The whole tract of ground was anciently, before the times of the EmperorValentinian, who enclosed and fortifiedGalatawith walls and towers, styled Περαῖα or RegioPeræabeing πέραν τῆς πόλεως, on the other side of the City to the North, which is the reason of its name, seated on higher hills, and whose ascent is more steep and difficult.

Our modernGeographers, such asMercatorandOrtelius, who herein followPtolomy, placeConstantinoplein the Latitude of 43. degrees and 5 minutes: theArabianandPersian Astronomers, asAbulfeda,Nassir Edin,Vlugh Beigh, and so the πρόχειροι κανόνες,Chrysococcastranslated out of thePersiantables, place it more Northerly in 45. But by latter and better observation it is found, that they have erred in assigning the Latitude of this City, as of several other places. To salve these differences, there is no just ground of pretence to say, that thePolesare moveable and have changed their situation since their time, whereas it may better be imputed to their want of due care, or to their taking things upon trust, from the reports ofTravellersandSeamen, not having been upon the places themselves: which certainly is to be said forPtolomywhose observations, as to places more remote fromAlexandria, are far from being accurate and true. The learned Mr.John Greaves, as I find in a Manuscript discourse, very worthy of being Printed, which he presented to the most reverend and renownedArch-bishop Usher, took the height of thePoleatConstantinoplewith a brass sextant of above 4 feetradius, and found it to be but 41 degrees 6´. but by the observation we made in our Court-yard atPerawith a very goodQuadrantwe found it but 40 degrees and 58 minutes of North Latitude.

There is no place between thePropontisand the walls of the City, except just at the Seraglio-point, which may be two hundred paces in length; where they have raised on a platform a battery for Great guns; but from the point to the end of the Haven West, the space to the gates is unequal in some places about twenty paces broad, in others three or four times as many more.

The distance betweenConstantinopleandChalcedonupon the oppositeBythinian-shore may be about three or four miles.

In the Walls are engraven the Names of several Emperors, who reigned toward the declension of theGræcianEmpire, asTheophilus,Michael,Basilius,Constantius Porphyrogenitus, by whose care, and at whose expence the several breaches caused in them by the Sea or by Earthquakes, were repaired.

Kumkapior the sand-gate lies toward thePropontis; this theGreekscall in their vulgar language Κονδοσκάλι,Contoscalium, or the little scale or landing-place. Here formerly was an Arsenal for Gallies and other small vessels; it being a convenient passage over Sea. Over this Gate was anciently engraven a curious Inscription still preserved in that excellent collection published by[9]Gruterus.

Jedicula Kapi, or the Gate of the seven Towers, so called from its nearness to thatAcropolis, is that, I guess, which theGreeksformerly called χρυσῆ or the Golden Gate, and by some lateLatinWritersChrysea, inLuitprandus,Carea, by a mistake either of the Transcriber or Printer, forAurea, for so certainly it must be mended. Over this Gate was this inscription,

Hæc loca Theudosius decorat post fata Tyranni,Aurea secla gerit, qui portam construit auro.

cited bySirmondin his notes upon[10]Sidonius. This Gate is in the twelfth Region, and wasalso called ὡραῖα from its beautiful and curious structure.

The Gun gate formerly called Roman gate, not because it leads towards the continent ofRomaniaorThrace, but from[11]St.Romanus, where the last Christian Emperor was killed at the assault which theTurksmade to force their Way into the City by it.

NearAdrianoplegate is a fair largeMoschcalledAli-bassa, upon a hill accounted the highest in the City.

The distance between tower and tower in the upper wall to the landward may be about ninety of my paces; the space between that and the second wall about eighteen paces over.

The place, where theLyons,Leopards, and such like wild creatures are kept, (where I saw also severalJackalls) was formerly, as theGreekstold me, a Christian Church dedicated to Παναγία or the Blessed Virgin, where this Verse is still legible,

Κατὰ Σκυθῶν ἔπνευσας θερμὸν ἐν μάχαις.

There is no tide or running back of the water on any side of theBosphorusinto the black Sea, as[12]some have imagined, whose mistake might possibly arise hence, that the wind being at North, and blowing hard, the current sets more violently at such times against the several headlands jetting out into the channel, which admits of several turnings, andso the waters are forced back to some little distance: or else because when the South-wind freshens and grows boisterous, it makes a high rolling Sea in thePropontisandBosphorous, and being contrary to the current, gives a check to it, so that it becomes less sensible, and is easily stemmed. Where it is narrowest, the distance seems to the eye to be scarce a mile over from one shore to another; where broadest, not much above a mile and a half, unless where it runs into the deep Bays, which by reason of their shallowness only harbour Boats.

The channel certainly is natural and not cut by art, as some have idly fansied, not considering, how theEuxineSea should discharge it self otherwise of those great quantities of waters, poured into it by theIsterandTanais, now calledDon, and the other Rivers, whereby it becomes less salt, even very sensibly to the taste, than several parts of theMediterranean.

The Fish, by a strange kind of instinct, pass in vast shoals twice a year, Autumn and Spring, through theBosphorus, that is, out of one Sea into another, of which theGreeks, who live several months of the year upon them, take great numbers, and supply the markets at easie rates; the Cormorants and other ravenous water-fowl, which theTurkswill not suffer to be destroy'd or otherwise molested, preying upon them.

The weather in some months is very inconstant, great heats and colds happening the same day upon the change of the wind.

The winters atConstantinopleare sometimes extraordinary severe. I have heard it related by several oldGreeks, as a thing most certainthat theBosphoruswas frozen over in the time ofAchmed, and that a Hare was coursed over it. It hapned thus, that upon a thaw huge cakes of Ice came floating down theDanubeinto the black Sea, and were driven by the current into theBosphorus, whereupon the return of the frost, they were fixed so hard that it became passable. In the year 1669 there was Ice in the Haven to the great amazement of theTurks; and some were so frighted at this unusual accident, that they lookt upon it as a dismal prodigy, and concluded, that the World would be at an end that Year. TheAgugliaorObeliskin theHippodromeis betwixt fifty and sixty Foot high.

The Historical Pillar inbasso relievo, raised in honour of the EmperorsArcadiusandHonorius, may be in height about an hundred seven and forty feet.

Alexius Comnenuslies buried in the Patriarchal Church against the wall, and his daughterAnna Comnena, the Historian, who lived about the year of Christ 1117. They pretend to shew there the reliques of St.Anastasia, who suffered Martyrdom under the EmperorValerianus, and of St.Euphemia, Virgin and Martyr, who lost her life most gloriously forChrist'sholy religion atChalcedonunderDioclesian.

InSancta Sophiathere are pillars so great, that a Man can scarce fathom them at twice. At the end of the Gallery, that joins the other two, each about thirty of my paces wide, there is a piece of transparent Marble, two or three Inches thick. In the North gallery upon the Pavement is a reddish sort of a Marble Stone, brought, as theTurksandChristiansrelate, fromPalestine, on which they Fable, that the blessed Virgin used to wash the linnen of our Saviour.

I observed but one step from the Body of the Church to theBemaor place where the Altar formerly stood.

The greatMoschatChasim-bassaonPeraside to the West, was formerly a Church dedicated to StTheodosia.

Gianghir, a Mosch so called, upon a hill atFondacleenearTophana.

InConstantinoplethere are several narrow streets of Trade, closed up with sheds and pent-houses, which I suppose were in use before theGreekslost their Empire, and are the same with the σκεπαστοὶ καὶ φρακτοὶ δρόμοι inChrysalorashis[13]Epistle. But besides these places, several Trades have their distant quarters. The streets are raised for the most part on each side for the greater convenience.

Not far fromSuleimaniais the house of theAgaor General of theJanizaries, which so often changes its Masters.

Pompey's pillar, as theFrankserroneously call it, is of theCorinthianorder, curiously wrought, about eighteen foot in height and three in Diameter.

Beshiktash, a Village within three or four miles ofConstantinopletowards theBosphorus, where lies buried the famous PirateAriadin, whom theChristianWriters callBarbarossa, who built here a handsome Mosch, having two rows of Pillars at the entrance. The CaptainBassausually, before he puts to Seawith his Armata of Gallies, visits the Tomb of this fortunate Robber, who had made several thousandChristiansSlaves, and makes his Prayers at the neighbouring Church for the good Success of his expedition.

They reckon in the City above a hundred publick Baths, every street almost affording one. They are esteemed works of great Piety and Charity; there being a continual use of them, not only upon the accompt of Religion, but of Health and Cleanliness. For their Diet being for the most part hot spiced meats in the Winter, and crude fruits in the Summer, their Liquor Fountain Water, or Coffee, to which we may add their lazy kind of Life (for walking is never used by them for digestion, or otherwise in the way of diversion) frequent bathing becomes necessary.

There are several receptacles of Water under Ground, and one particularly under the Church ofSancta Sophia, as I was informed; but I did not think it worth my curiosity to descend into it. These were of great use to the poorGreeksin the last fatal Siege; but theTurksare so secure, that they do not think, that they deserve either cost or pains to keep the Waters sweet, or the cisterns in repair.

TheAqueducts, which answer to those gloriousAqueducts, nearPyrgos, and convey the water to the great cistern near SultanSelim's Mosch, are in that part ofConstantinople, which lies between the Mosch ofMahometthe Great andShaxade.

TheTurksbegan to besiegeConstantinopleon the fifth ofApril, and took it the twenty ninth ofMayonWhitsun Tuesdaymorning 1453. or as theTurksreckon in the year 857. of theHegira, or flight ofMahomet, the 22 day of the firstJomad.

The Chappel, whereEjub Sultanis interred, at whose Head and Feet I observed great wax Candles, is enclosed with latten wire Grates, for the better accommodation of such religiousTurksas come to pay their respect to the memory of this greatMusulmanSaint. In the middle of the Area there is raised a building sustained by excellent marble Pillars, ascended by two several pair of stairs, where the new Emperor is inaugurated, and where he usually goes inBiram-time.

FOOTNOTES:[1]Κατὰ τὴν ἐπώνυμον ἡμῖν πόλιν.So the EmperorConstantinein a Letter toEusebius. de vita Constantini.lib.4.cap.36. & apud Theodoritum Histor. Eccles.lib.1.cap.16.v.etiam Socrat. Scholast. Hist. Eccles.lib.1.cap.16.[2]V. Socratem ibidem. Et Theophanem in Chronographia XXV. anno Constantini.[3]TheItalianWordRioneis a manifest corruption of theLatinWord.[4]In Panegyrico, quem Romæ dixit Anthemio Augusto, bis Consuli.[5]Hæresi LXIX. quæ est Arianorum. Sect. 2.where he says a sad dismal Fire was kindled byArius; πῦρ ὀυ τὸ τυχὸν ὃ κατείληφε πᾶσαν τὴν Ρωμανίαν σχεδὸν, μάλιστα τῆς ἀνατολῖς τὰ μέρη, which seized almost upon allRomania, orUniversum Romanorum imperium, asPetaviusrenders it, but especially the Eastern parts of it.[6]Pag. 144, 152, 153.[7]Pag. 139.[8]v. Gillium de Bosp. Thracio lib.III.cap. 12. &c.[9]Pag. 169. Num. 3.[10]Pag. 121.[11]Vid. Historiam Politicam Constantinopoleos apud Crusium in Turco-Græcia, pag. 9.[12]This was an old error; for thus writes Dionysius Byzantinus in his little Book of the Bosphorus. Τοῦ ῥεύματος τὸ μὲν πλεῖον κατιόντος ἐστὶ δὲ ὅτε κατ' ἐπικράτειαν ἀναστρέφοντος.[13]Pag. 119.

[1]Κατὰ τὴν ἐπώνυμον ἡμῖν πόλιν.So the EmperorConstantinein a Letter toEusebius. de vita Constantini.lib.4.cap.36. & apud Theodoritum Histor. Eccles.lib.1.cap.16.v.etiam Socrat. Scholast. Hist. Eccles.lib.1.cap.16.

[2]V. Socratem ibidem. Et Theophanem in Chronographia XXV. anno Constantini.

[3]TheItalianWordRioneis a manifest corruption of theLatinWord.

[4]In Panegyrico, quem Romæ dixit Anthemio Augusto, bis Consuli.

[5]Hæresi LXIX. quæ est Arianorum. Sect. 2.where he says a sad dismal Fire was kindled byArius; πῦρ ὀυ τὸ τυχὸν ὃ κατείληφε πᾶσαν τὴν Ρωμανίαν σχεδὸν, μάλιστα τῆς ἀνατολῖς τὰ μέρη, which seized almost upon allRomania, orUniversum Romanorum imperium, asPetaviusrenders it, but especially the Eastern parts of it.

[6]Pag. 144, 152, 153.

[7]Pag. 139.

[8]v. Gillium de Bosp. Thracio lib.III.cap. 12. &c.

[9]Pag. 169. Num. 3.

[10]Pag. 121.

[11]Vid. Historiam Politicam Constantinopoleos apud Crusium in Turco-Græcia, pag. 9.

[12]This was an old error; for thus writes Dionysius Byzantinus in his little Book of the Bosphorus. Τοῦ ῥεύματος τὸ μὲν πλεῖον κατιόντος ἐστὶ δὲ ὅτε κατ' ἐπικράτειαν ἀναστρέφοντος.

[13]Pag. 119.

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