LV.CABBAGE.
IN this chapter we have something to say of an old familiar friend, theCabbage, which for ages has been one of the most useful of all our vegetables, being very productive, and, for many persons, nutritious and healthful. It is found growing wild on the cliffs in many parts of the southern coasts of England; but these do not very closely resemble the large, vigorous vegetable we see on our farms and in our gardens. There it is dwarfed, not weighing more than an ounce, with a few feeble leaves. Even in this state it is sometimes gathered and eaten for greens, but is not very tempting. Although thus found wild on the southern British coast, the numerous kinds now under careful cultivation, in almost all our large farms or market-gardens, are the results of many experiments made by scientific and enterprising agriculturists. It was also largely cultivated and improved in other countries long before its use was understood in England. It was a common product among the Romans, and although they were lawless and ambitious in their inroads upon the surrounding nations, their conquests,with all the attending evils, were conducive of many good results; for wherever their armies went, they left behind new arts and habits, tending toward a larger civilization than is commonly the result of wars. Many fruits, roots, and vegetables, unknown in Spain, Germany, and England, were brought by the conquering Romans into general use among these nations.
The Saxons used cabbage under the name of kale, and it is still so called in Scotland. For a long time it was the only vegetable known in that country, but there is no end to the kinds now in use, and the varieties are multiplied yearly by the experiments and skill of the producers. With some persons it is not easy of digestion when cooked, but when cut up raw and used as a salad there is hardly anything more wholesome or palatable than the cabbage. Some chemists assert that it contains an oil which is injurious, unless, when cooking, the cabbage is boiled in two waters. However that may be, we know that this vegetable is far more delicate and tempting, if, after boiling about half an hour, the water is poured off, and clear boiling water added, in which the cabbage is cooked till done. With that precaution, aside from being nicer, it is not half as liable to produce disagreeable effects.
TheBorecole, orkaleproper, as now understood, differs from the common cabbage in having long, curly, wrinkled leaves, more like the original wild plant, only larger and of thicker growth, never forming into a close, solid head. They are very hardy, and furnish most excellent winter greens; and if the leaves and stalks are blanched, are greatly improved and very delicate. Thesekalesare improved by frost. The Scotch or Germankale, orcualis(curly greens), is used in immense quantities in Britain. The buda and the Russian kale are much less common. The buda is considered a great delicacy when blanched; the sprouts, and notthe heart, being the most desirable. We have never seen it in our markets, but should think it might be brought to great perfection in our country, and be a very desirable addition to our numerous sorts of cabbage. The Coleya oil, so much in use in France for lamps, is made from the seeds of one kind ofkale, and we think we have been told it is from the buda.
The Portuguese cabbage, from Tranzuda, is extensively cultivated abroad, and we see not why that also cannot be introduced here. It is said to be peculiarly tender and delicate, and destitute of the coarse rank taste of our common kinds. The heart is the preferable part; the mid-rib or stalk being used after the green parts are cut off only as greens. We wonder that some enterprising Yankee has not brought it into our markets.
ThePalm kaleand theCow-cabbageare cultivated in Jersey, and other of the Anglo-Norman isles, as food for cattle. The leaves of both grow to a great height, from twelve to fifteen feet. It is the outer leaf that is fed to the cattle; the heart of the bud is quite tender, and when cooked is good and nutritious.
The close-headed cabbage has many varieties,—thewhiteand thered drum-head,sugar-loaf,Savoy, etc. These are raised from the seed, and should be sowed the year before they are wanted, for large heads. While young, or the first year, if cooked at all it is as greens, or cabbagecoleworts. Such as are not kept for growth the second year are pulled up, root and all, and thus sent to market to keep them from withering. The roots are cut off by the cook just before using. Some, when the head is half formed, are gathered for summer cabbage; but if left till fall the head becomes hard and firm, and late in the season they are pulled up and stored, or buried in the ground. Such as are needed for summer sprouts or coleworts are left in the ground all winter,and are ready early, with the nice new shoots for the spring market.
The red cabbage makes a fine pickle, and is the kind most used by the Germans forsauerkraut, though almost any variety will answer. The dwarf red is much used abroad for stewing.
TheSavoyshave leaves much more curly than the other varieties, and the middle part of their firm heads is excellent for boiling, and particularly fine forcole, or cold slaw, orkohl slaw, as the Germans term it. The dwarf and the yellow Savoy will stand the frost. The Brussels sprouts are something like the Savoy, but grow often three or four feet high. The sprouts form in little, delicate heads all the way up. The top of the stalk is more solid, and it is that which is like the Savoy.
TheCauliflowerandBroccoliare among the most desirable of the cabbage tribe, and bring a higher price than any. The former is probably a native of the island of Cyprus, and the broccoli is said to have been introduced into Holland and England from Italy, in the seventeenth century. They are quite similar in habit and taste, but the broccoli will bear the frost and cold better than the cauliflower. Both are very great favorites and very delicate.
The leaves of all kinds of cabbage decay very early, and are then exceedingly offensive. They should never be allowed to remain in the cellar or lie about the house, as they are very injurious to the health. The water in which cabbage is boiled is also offensive and unhealthy, and should be poured into drains where it will the soonest pass off.
Our farmers often feed the outside leaves of cabbage to their cattle. All very well if they do not give them to theirmilch cows. Many of our dairymen will not believe that cabbage or turnips injure the flavor of milk or butter, but we think their taste must be greatly perverted if they fail to detect the flavor at once.