LXXVI.A CHAPTER ON SOUPS.
HESITATION in taking the first steps in any new enterprise or new work is very common. With some it springs from great caution; with others, from lack of confidence in their own ability. They magnify troubles which may arise, and imagine all manner of difficulties, until verysmall and easy duties are clothed in a mystery which they shrink from solving.
In working, a novice, if at all timid or lacking self-reliance, often keeps herself in a constant state of alarm lest she make some great mistake, and, strange as it may seem, few things in the whole round of cooking-experiments assume a more formidable aspect than the simple act of making a soup. It is a mystery which grows moreuncannythe longer it is looked at from a distance; but lay your hand upon it, and you will soon learn that you have been frightened at a shadow.
There are several things preliminary to making soup which are quite essential. First of all, it is desirable, though not absolutely indispensable, that you provide yourself with the best and most convenient utensils.
Astock-potis usually a large, round kettle, with a closely fitting cover, into which the meat or bones and odd bits for preparing the stock or broth for soups are put, to be cooked. It is generally made of iron or copper.
Asoup-digesteris a kind of stock-pot made wholly of iron. The lid fits closely into a groove in the top of the digester, with a projecting piece which, when turned till it meets the socket or notch on each side of the groove, acts like a lock, holding the lid on tightly. In that respect it is far better than the stock-pot, for nothing can boil over in the digester, and no steam escapes except through thevalveat the top of the cover. They are to be obtained at almost all hardware stores, and are of all sizes, from three quarts to ten gallons.
Next, having provided the utensils, good “stock” of various kinds should be kept constantly on hand, regulating the quantity prepared at one time by the state of the weather and the size of your family. In summer, in a cool cellar, it will keep, by frequent scalding, several days. Inwinter it is safe to keep it much longer, only, like everything else, it requires to be looked after carefully. Few soups can be of the best quality without a strongstockto start with.Liebig’s Extracts of Meatanswers very well for a substitute, but is better used in connection with the stock.
Every bit of meat which is left over, that cannot be satisfactorily employed otherwise, should go at once into thestock-potordigester. Bones, after carving from them all the meat that can be advantageously secured, must be well cracked and added to the other pieces. The vessel should be always near, ready to receive any stray morsel. When enough is collected to make a good quantity of stock, put cold water to the pieces; for the juices, which are what you desire to obtain, are much more readily extracted in cold water than in hot. On the contrary, meats that are to be boiled for table use should always be put intoboilingwater, which closes the outer surfaces instantly, thus retaining the juices.
When the water is added, set the digester over a moderate fire, where the contents will not boil rapidly, only simmer. After it begins to boil, add salt and pepper. Opinions differ as to the length of time needed in the preparation of good stock; but it is generally allowed to simmer most of the day, which is too long, and it thereby becomes muddy. We think a few hours’ boiling will extract all the juice, and make better stock than longer. Remember that stock should have more salt, pepper, and seasoning than would be desirable in the soup to be made from it.
When done, strain it into a large stone pot, kept for that purpose exclusively, and cover closely till morning, when the fat will all rise to the top and harden, and should then be removed. Never allow stock to remain in the stock-pot or digester overnight; for, even when there is no copper torender it unsafe, it will assuredly taste of the iron, and the flavor be very greatly injured by it.
If you have no bones or bits of meat on hand to make stock with, a knuckle of beef or veal can be procured with little expense; or, if a rich soup is desired, several kinds of meat should be mixed. For instance: Take four pounds of the shin of beef, four pounds of the knuckle of veal, and a half-pound of good lean ham—any scraps of poultry, necks, wings, etc.—that may chance to be unused. Three onions, three carrots, one head of celery, a few chopped mushrooms, two or three fresh tomatoes, or what would be equal to them in canned tomatoes, if they can be obtained; just a shake of savory herbs and parsley, and, in cold weather, three turnips. In warm weather turnips will cause the stock to ferment. Add an ounce and a half of salt, one table-spoonful of sugar, twelve white peppercorns, six cloves, three small bits of mace, and four quarts of water. Line the nicely cleaned digester, after well buttering it, with the ham cut in thin, broad slices carefully trimmed from all the outer fat that may taste too strong of the smoke, or which is at all rusty. Then cut all the meat from the beef and veal into about three-inch pieces, and lay them over the ham. Set it on the stove, and when all is delicately and equally browned, put in the beef and veal bones, well cracked, the bits of poultry-trimmings, and pour over all four quarts ofcoldwater. When it comes to the boiling point, bring to the side of the stove or range, skim very carefully, adding now and then a little cold water, to stop rapid boiling. Let it simmer in this way till it is quite clear, and then put in all the vegetables and other ingredients, and keep it simmering over the stove five hours. Do not let it at any time come to a brisk boil, as that will waste the stock and injure the color.
When done, strain through a fine hair-sieve or cloth into a large stonestock-jar, and cover up carefully till needed.
Prepared in this way, a stock will keep in cool weather a long time, if kept covered closely from the air, by occasionally scalding, and is always on hand when you wish a rich soup. While it is cooking, in adding water to stop boiling, be sure that you add enough to supply that wasted in steam, so that when done and strained you will have four quarts of liquid. One quart will be sufficient for the stock for four rich soups.
A less rich stock may be obtained by using less meat and seasoning, or by carefully saving the water in which fresh meat or fowls have been boiled, adding vegetables and seasoning to suit yourself. Let it simmer gently for six hours, skimming it carefully, and then strain and set aside for use.
White stock, for white soup, is made like the rich stock; only, instead of browning the meat before adding any water, you should rub the digester with butter, lay in the meat, moisten with half a pint of water, and simmer slowly, until the gravy begins to flow; then add five quarts of cold water and such vegetables and seasoning as you prefer, or the same as for rich stock, and let all simmer five hours. When stronger stock is required, double the quantity of veal, or put in an old fowl. The liquor in which a young turkey has been boiled is excellent for white stocks or soups.
Browningfor soups is made with two ounces of powdered sugar and half a pint of water. Put the sugar in a smooth, clean saucepan over a slow fire till it begins to melt; keep it in motion with a wooden spoon all the time until it becomes black, when the water should be added. Let it dissolve in the water, then cork closely, and use only a few drops when required. In France an onion is burnt to put with the browning; but all browning, although it adds somewhat to the looks of some kinds of soups, does not often improve the flavor.
Toclarifystocks or soups which are sometimes a littlemuddy, carefully separate the whites of eggs from the yelks, and use the whites to clear the soup. One egg to every quart of stock or soup to be clarified. Beat well together, with one fourth of a pint of water to every egg, and, still beating, add gradually to the stock, which should be just warm. Then place it over the fire, and when it boils skim thoroughly, whisk it well, and draw the kettle to the side of the stove, to let it settle till the whites of the eggs become separated from the soup; then strain through a fine cloth, and, if rightly done, the stock or soup will be clear.
Thus, as will be readily understood, we have given most important preliminary steps toward making soup. In the next article we give directions for making several kinds of soups, and thereby answer several requests in one chapter.