700.To make Ink.—To four ounces of bruised galls, allow two of copperas and two of gum-arabic; put the galls into a large bottle, with three pints of rain water; and, in three or four days, dissolve the gum in hot water, and add it with the copperas. Shake the bottle frequently for some days. A few cloves may be put into the bottle, to prevent the ink from moulding.701.Ink Powder.—Take five ounces of the cleanest nutgalls, bruise them, and sift the powder very fine; then add one ounce of white copperas, two ounces of Roman vitriol, gum-arabic, half an ounce; pound and sift them very fine. An ounce of this powder will make a pint of very black ink.702.To prevent Ink from moulding.—Half-a-dozen cloves, bruised with gum-arabic, are to be put into the bottle. If a very fine ink is wanted, white wine, or vinegar and water, should be used, instead of water alone.703.To make Indian Ink.—Put six lighted wicks into a dish of oil; hang an iron or tin concave cover over it, so as to receive all the smoke; when there is a sufficient quantity of soot settled to the cover, then take it off gently with a feather upon a sheet of paper, and mix it up with gum-tragacanth to a proper consistence.N. B. The clearest oil makes the finest soot, consequently the best ink.704.Indian Ink.—Take horse-beans, burn them till they are perfectly black, grind them to a fine powder, and, with weak gum-arabic water make it into a paste, and form it into long square cakes.705.To make China Ink.—Take dried black horse-beans, burn them to a powder, mix them up with gum-arabic water, and bring them to a mass; press it well, and let it dry.MANAGEMENT OF CANARY-BIRDS.706. Canary-birds, that are kept tame, will breed three or four times in the year. Towards the middle of March, begin to match your birds, putting one cock and hen into the breeding-cage, which should be large, so that the birds may have room to fly and exercise themselves. Place two boxes or little basket-nests in the cage, for the hen to lay her eggs in, because she will sometimes have a second brood before the first are fit to fly, leaving the care of them to the father-bird, who feeds and brings them up with much care, while she is sitting on her second nest of eggs. Whilst your birds are pairing, feed them, besides the usual seeds, with the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, bread that has been moistened, or, if hard, grated fine, and pounded almond-meat. When the young birds are to be fed, give the same soft food, and be sure have it fresh every day; also furnish the old birds with fresh greens, such as cabbage-lettuce, chick weed, groundsel, &c. Give fresh water every day, and a clean bath every morning. The hen lays, commonly, four or five eggs, and sits fourteen days. When the young are hatched, leave them to the care of the old birds, to nurse and bring up till they can fly and feed themselves, which is, usually, in about twenty days.707.Gold and Silver Fish.—Pure rain-water is best to keep these delicate little creatures in; they should never be put into water that has been boiled. It is a good plan to throw them in the morning into a large bowl of fresh water, with a few bread-crumbs in it, and let them remain there an hour. Then put them in pure fresh water in their vases. The water should be changed every day. If the bread remains in the water to become sour, it will kill the fish.708.Improvement in the management of Bees.—The improvement is that of having double skeps or hives, the one on the top of the other. When the lower skep is filled with honey, it is to be removed after the bees are admitted (through a passage which is made to be opened) into the upper skep; into this skep food must be put, and the bees will remain there, and go on with their work in it. When it is filled with honey, the former skep, with food in it, may be replaced, and the bees again admitted into it. The full skep is then to be taken away. This change of the skeps must always be made about midsummer; and by thus annually removing the full one, more honey will be collected than is usual, and the bees will not be destroyed.709.To preserve Flowers in Water.—Mix a little carbonate of soda with the water, and it will preserve the flowers for a fortnight. Common saltpetre is also a good preservative.710.To preserve Flowers in Winter.—Take the latest buds just as they are ready to open; cut them off, leaving the stem about three inches long; cover the end of the stem with melted sealing-wax, and when the buds are a little withered, wrap them separately in paper, and place them in a dry box. When you wish to have the buds blossom, cut off the sealed end, and put them into water in which a little saltpetre has been dissolved. In twelve hours the buds will be open.711.To take Impressions of Leaves.—Dissolve in a saucerful of water about a tea-spoonful of bichromate of potash. Pass the paper to be used through this solution, and, while wet, press the leaves lightly upon it, and expose it to the sun when it is shining brightly. When perfectly dry, remove the leaves, and afac-similewill be left in a light lemon shade, while the rest of the paper will be of a dark brown.712.To preserve the natural color in Petals of dried Flowers.—Immerse the petals for some minutes in alcohol. The colors will fade at first, but in a short time they will resume, permanently, their natural tint.713.To revive faded Flowers.—Nearly all flowers may be revived, when faded, by placing one-third of the stalks in hot water; when it has become cold, the flowers will be re-set and fresh; the end of the stalks should then be cut off and the flowers put into cold water.Or, dip flowers in spirits of wine for twenty minutes; at first they will appear to have entirely faded; but in drying, the colors will revive, and the fragrance be prolonged.A few grains of salt put into the water with flowers, will keep them from fading.Sand may be substituted for water.Flowers may be preserved throughout the winter, if plucked when they are half-blown, dipped, stalks downward, in equal quantities of water and verjuice mixed, and sprinkled with bay salt. They should be kept in an earthenware vessel, closely covered, and in a warm place; when, in mid-winter, if the flowers be taken out, washed in cold water, and held before a gentle fire, they will open as if in their first bloom.714.To paint Cloth, Cambric, Sarcenet, &c., so as to render them Transparent.—Grind to a fine powder three pounds of clear white resin, and put it into two pounds of good nut-oil, to which a strong drying quality has been given: set the mixture over a moderate fire, and keep stirring it till all the resin is dissolved; then put in two pounds of the best Venice turpentine, and keep stirring the whole well together; and if the cloth or cambric be thoroughly varnished on both sides with this mixture, it will be quite transparent. In this operation, the surface upon which the varnish is to be applied, must be stretched tight and made fast during the application. This mode of rendering cloth, &c. transparent, is excellently adapted for window-blinds. The varnish will likewise admit of any design in oil-colors being executed upon it as a transparency.715.Varnish to prevent the rays of the Sun from passing through the glasses of Windows.—Pulverize gum-tragacanth, and put it to dissolve for twenty-four hours in whites of eggs,well beaten. Lay a coat of this on the panes of your windows, with a soft brush, and let it dry.716.To stain paper or parchment Yellow.—Paper may be stained of a beautiful yellow, by the tincture of turmeric, formed by infusing an ounce or more of the root, powdered, in a pint of spirit of wine. This, by the addition of water, may be made to give any tint of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full color called French yellow, and will be equal in brightness even to the best dyed silks. If yellow is wanted of a warmer or redder cast, anotta, or dragon's blood, must be added to the tincture.717.To stain paper or parchment Crimson.—A very fine crimson stain may be given to paper, by a tincture of the Indian lake, which may be made by infusing the lake some days in spirit of wine, and then pouring off the tincture from the dregs.718.To stain paper or parchment Green.—Paper or parchment may be stained green by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or by the crystals of verdigris dissolved in water; also by the solution of copper in aquafortis, made by adding filings of copper, gradually, to the aquafortis, till no ebullition ensues; or, the spirit of salt may be substituted for the aquafortis.HOUSE-PLANTS.719. Plants require much light and fresh air; a light garret is an excellent place for them; even those which will not bear the outer air, must have the air of the room frequently freshened by ventilation, to preserve them in health. They should not stand in a draught of air. In frosty weather the windows should be kept close, and at night, the shutters. In sharp frost, instead of stirring out the fire, leave a little on retiring to rest, with a guard before it for security.As a general rule, never water plants while the sun shines. The time should be in the evening, or early in the morning, unless it be confined to watering the roots, in which case transplanted plants, and others in a growing state, may be watered at any time; and, if they are shaded from the sun, they may also be watered over the tops.The water, if taken from a well or cold spring, should be exposed one day to the sun, otherwise it will chill the plants. A small quantity only should be applied at a time, that it may have the effect of refreshing rain.Rain water is the best for plants; next river water; hard spring water is the worst.720.To air Plants, and ventilate Rooms wherein they are contained.—Plants should have air, every day in the year, to make them grow well; but this matter, in sitting-rooms, will not of course be regulated for their sakes, especially in the colder seasons. Wherever placed, however, some attention should be paid to airing and ventilating the rooms regularly, by opening the windows, and occasionally the doors, in order to excite a free circulation of air. This should be done to a certain extent every day, according to the state of the weather, except in the time of severe frost, when it would not be advisable to admit external air. But at such times, if bad weather be of long continuance, the rooms may be ventilated by means of the doors, and by exciting a current of air in the passages, or other parts of the house.In very severe frost, or in a continuation of damp weather, moderate fires should be made for the sake of the plants, if placed in rooms not occupied. The window shutters should also be closed at night.721.Hints to Lovers of Flowers.—A most beautiful and easily-attained show of evergreens may be had by a very simple plan, which has been found to answer remarkably well on a small scale. If geranium branches taken from luxuriant and healthy trees, just before the winter sets in, be cut as for slips, and immersed in soap-water, they will, after drooping for a few days, shed their leaves, put forth fresh ones; and continue in the finest vigor all the winter. By placing a number of bottles thus filled in a flower-basket, with moss to conceal the bottles, a show of evergreens is easily insured for the whole season. They require no fresh water.722.Bulbous Roots.—The time to put bulbous roots, as the hyacinth, narcissus, and jonquil, into glasses filled with water, is from September to November, and the earliest will begin blooming about Christmas. The glasses should be blue, as thatcolor best suits the roots; put in water enough to cover the bulb one third; let the water be soft, change it once a week, and put in a pinch of salt at each change. Keep the glasses in a moderately warm place, and near to the light.They should have fresh water about once in ten days. The leaves should not be plucked off before they decay, or the root will be deprived of much of its natural nourishment. When they have decayed, the bulbs should be taken up, laid in the shade to dry, cleaned, and kept in sand in a dry place till wanted to replant. The offsets should be taken off, and planted according to size.723.Geraniums.—The shrubby kinds are commonly increased by cuttings, which, if planted in June or July, and placed in the shade, will take root in five weeks. They are the most tender, and when placed out of doors, should be defended from strong winds, and be so placed as to enjoy the sun till eleven o'clock in the morning. As the shrubby kinds grow fast, so as to fill the pots with their roots, and push them through the opening at the bottom, they should be moved every two or three weeks in summer, and the fresh roots cut off. They should also be newly potted twice in the summer: once about a month after they are placed abroad, and again towards the end of August. When this is done, all the roots outside the earth should be pared off, and as much of the old earth removed as can be done without injuring the plants. They should then be planted in a larger pot; some fresh earth should first be laid at the bottom, and on that the plant should be placed, so that the old earth adhering to it may be about an inch below the rim of the pot; it should next be filled up, and the pot slightly shaken: the earth must then be gently pressed down at the top, leaving a little space for water to be given without running over the rim; finally, the plant should be liberally watered, and the stem fastened to a stake, to prevent the wind displacing the roots before they are newly fixed.As the branches grow, and new leaves are formed at the top of them, the lower ones may die, and should be plucked off every week.Geranium slips should be planted in May, June, or July, taking only the last year's shoots, from which the leaves must be stripped. When planted, give them water, and place them in the shade: when they have taken root, let them have thesun in the morning. The slips chosen for cutting should not be such as bear flowers; and they should be inserted about half their length in the earth.Geraniums, except the shrubby kinds, require shelter from frost only, and should have free air admitted to them, when the weather is not very severe. In sultry weather, they should all be watered liberally every morning, except some few of a succulent nature, which must be watered sparingly; the latter may be known by plucking a leaf from them. Geraniums may be watered three times a week, when not frosty, in winter.724.Artificial Mould for Plants.—Russian potash, one drachm; water, four ounces; one tea-spoonful of oil. Mix the whole well together. Seeds put in this mixture will grow for a time at least, as well as if planted in common soil.725.To take Impressions of Plants.—Take half a sheet of fine paper, and cover the surface with sweet oil; let it stand a minute or two, then rub off the superficial oil, and hang the paper in the air; when almost dry, move the paper slowly over the flame of a candle or lamp, till it is perfectly black; lay on it the plant or leaf, place a piece of clean paper over, and rub it equally with the fingers for half a minute. Then place the plant on the paper or scrap-book where it is desired to have the impression, cover it with blotting paper, and, on repeating the rubbing, a representation of the plant will appear equal to the finest engraving. The same piece of black paper will serve for a number of impressions.726.Another Process.—Burn a common cork till reduced to powder; mix with it a tea-spoonful of olive oil, making a thick paste. Paint the veiny side of the leaf with a camel-hair brush, and lay it, with the painted side down, on a piece of clean paper. Submit it to a strong and even pressure (it is best placed in a book and put under a weight,) for about fifteen minutes; remove the leaf carefully, and there will be an exact representation left. Very veiny leaves are best. These impressions are almost equal to engravings. Collections of them might be made interesting, by having narratives of rambles written under them, stating the features of the spot from which the leaves were gathered.DIRECTIONS FOR WINDOW-PLANTS.727.Through January and February.—The summer flowering-plants—such as geraniums, fuchsias, &c.—should be kept as nearly dormant as possible, allowing just enough water to prevent flagging, and all the light that can be spared from the more interesting division of winter-bloomers; of the latter class, such things as china-roses, cinerarias, hyacinths and other bulbs, will now be in an active state, some of them flowering, and others about to do so; these must be liberally treated with water. Mignonnette, however, must be excepted. Above everything, keep the leaves clean; they are few in number, and feeble in action, but they have yet an important function to perform; and, without they are kept as healthy as possible, the plant cannot begin a new growth with the vigor it is desirable it should possess. The pots should be occasionally scrubbed with clean water, but do not paint or otherwise fill up their pores, for air is as essential to the roots as to the foliage, and no inconsiderable quantity finds its way to them through the sides of a clean pot. With the same view, the surface of the soil should be frequently stirred; the process keeps it open, prevents the growth of moss and weeds, and imparts a better appearance. The water given should always be rather warmer than the atmosphere of the room; and rain-water, slightly heated, is the best.728.March.—The whole of these plants will be benefited by re-potting. Geraniums and fuchsias delight in light rich earth; calceolarias (lady's slipper), roses, the chimney campanula, and others which grow as freely, should have a larger proportion of loam; whatever manure is added for either, must be thoroughly decayed. The pots should be perfectly clean, inside and out; take care to have each properly drained with pieces of slate or potsherds, in size and number proportionate to the pot; the larger ones require from one to three inches of this drainage. In removing the plants, take off the matted fibres with a knife; loosen the soil moderately, and, when in its place, press the new earth tightly round it; give a gentle watering, and keep them rather warm for a few days; afterwards they should have plenty of air on fine days, and water as they become dry. Station each where it may receive the direct light, and pay particular attention to keeping the leaves clean.729.April.—On the attention given through this month, most of the success for the season will depend. The plants are now, or ought to be, in a very active growth, which must be encouraged by moderate and regular supplies of water and air. Pinch out the points of the growing shoots of such plants as are required to become bushy; this is commonly called "stopping," and, with such things as geraniums, fuchsias, myrtles, and others of similar habit, is very necessary. Cactuses must have a sunny position, and plenty of water. Mignonette in pots and boxes, will require thinning, so as to leave the plants about three inches apart. The several kinds of China roses form beautiful window ornaments, and occasion but little trouble: at this time they are coming rapidly into bloom. Look for and destroy insects of all sorts, every few days; they multiply so fast, that without constant attention, the plants are soon overrun. The leaves must be kept clear of dust, and the branches properly tied out to sticks, that the centre may receive its due share of light.730.May.—As the influence of the advancing season and power of the sun begins to be felt, the management of window-plants becomes easier, and must be gradually changed from the careful nursing hitherto necessary, to a course of almost constant exposure that will render the plants robust and hardy.731.June.—From this time till the middle of September, plants in pots may be placed out of doors; they are, in fact, better in the open air, than in the heated atmosphere of a room. Except in stormy seasons, they may stand out night and day, in some slightly-sheltered spot. As a precaution against the effects of strong sun-light, it is advisable to place the pots in which the plants grow, into others a size or two larger, and fill the space between them with moss; for many plants, having slender fibrous roots, are easily injured by the heat of the sun scorching them through the pot. Such as stand upon the ground, should have a thick layer of ashes spread for them, to prevent worms from creeping in. Wash their leaves frequently with clean water, and remove insects. When any portion of the collection is kept in-doors, a window facing the north or west is to be preferred, and plenty of air must be admitted. As soon as geraniums have done flowering, they should be cut down, re-potted, and the tops struck, to form plants for nextyear. This is a good time to propagate nearly all kinds of pot-plants; most of them strike with freedom on a warm border in sandy soil, covered with a glass, and kept moderately watered. Myrtles, and some other hard-wooded plants, may be struck by placing the cuttings, for about half their length, into a phial filled with water. Seeds must be sown in light earth, as soon as they are thoroughly ripe.732.July.—Fuchsias, in a growing state, should receive a final potting: place them in large, perfectly clean pots, using a mixture of turfy loam and peat, or leaf mould; train the shoots, and water liberally. Geraniums that have done flowering, should also be re-potted; they require a lighter soil, such as one part turfy loam, two parts leaf mould, and the remainder sand: cut down the tops to within two or three joints of their base, and set the plants in a warm sheltered place, to induce them to grow again: the cuttings may be struck in a frame or hand-glass, and will form nice plants by next season. Cactuses should be kept in a sunny situation, and have plenty of water. Camellias which have made their season's growth, may be set out of doors, to ripen. China roses may be re-potted, if requisite, and are easily propagated now, in the same manner as geraniums. Separate and pot violets, for early spring-flowering; keep them and similar plants, as the cyclamen, &c., in the most shaded place out of doors. The whole tribe of lilies are handsome window-plants, and some of the dwarf Japan kinds peculiarly adapted for the purpose; they are just beginning to bloom, and should have plenty of air and water. The Chinese primrose may be sown in pots of light rich earth, and, if covered with a piece of glass, will vegetate quickly, and form nice plants by the autumn. Propagation of such plants as myrtles, sweet-scented verbena, or lemon plant, chimney campanulas, &c., is now easy, and should be attended to without loss of time. Water all the plants with regularity, and in quantities proportionate to their size and the state of the weather; but particularly keep the leaves clean, by frequent sprinklings of clean water and sponging. The essential points in the culture of every plant, is to allow the functions of both roots and leaves to be carried on in a proper manner—the first, by placing them in suitable soil, and the latter, by clearing them of all impurities.733.August.—Needs only a continuance of the attention recommended last month. Let them have plenty of air, light, and water, with a slight protection from the mid-day sun; propagation may still be carried on successfully. Pot the bella-donna and Guernsey lilies, to flower in autumn; and the young plants of the Chinese primrose should be placed three or four together, in pots of light rich earth, and nursed, to forward their growth as far as possible.734.September.—The geraniums cut down in July, will now be pushing forth a number of young shoots; these must be encouraged as much as possible, by keeping the plants in a sheltered place, and duly supplying them with moisture. When the shoots have grown two or three joints, they should be stopped by picking out the points, in order to render them bushy. The cuttings made at the same period will now be fit for potting; put each one separately into a small pot, and treat them as the older plants. Young plants of myrtles, and indeed all others that are properly rooted, should receive similar treatment. Cinerarias are among the most useful of spring-flowering plants, and if a few seedlings can be obtained now, they will make nice plants, with the treatment recommended for geraniums. Cyclamen, Guernsey, or Bella-donna lilies, and Lachenalias should be re-potted; the first and last are very handsome spring-flowering plants, and the lilies are exceedingly beautiful through October and November; all of them are of reasonable price, and well worth adding to the usual stock of window plants. Fill a few pots with fibrous loam, and sprinkle them over with mignonette,nemophilainsignis, and intermediate stocks; leave the pots in the open air, and thin the plants to about three or four of the strongest, as soon as they can be handled. Pot off china primroses, putting one plant into each three-inch pot. Encourage the chrysanthemums in pots with alternate applications of manure water, repot the strongest, and allow them all plenty of room, or the leaves are liable to injury. Set all plants as they grow out of flower in the sun, to ripen their wood, but do not let them suffer from drought.735.October.—The principal endeavor among this class of plants must now be directed towards getting them into a state of rest; water very cautiously, giving air whenever the weather will permit, and at all times let them enjoy whatever sunshineoccurs, and uninterrupted light. Now that the respiring power of the leaves becomes lessened, it is most essential that every particle of dust be carefully removed; the surface of the soil in which they grow should be occasionally stirred, to keep it clean and porous, and even the outside of the pots should be washed, for the same end. If it be necessary to stand the pots in saucers, when the plants are watered, the waste which runs through should be regularly emptied away, as much mischief ensues from allowing the roots to remain in the water.736.November.—The directions given last month must be closely observed throughout the remainder of the year. The great object being to keep the majority of the plants in a resting condition, that they may start the more vigorously on the return of genial weather. Winter, or early spring-flowering plants, such as violets, China primroses, cyclamen, and roses, are, however, to be excepted from this rule; they are now in an active state, and must be encouraged accordingly. As soon as hyacinths and other bulbs, placed in pots last month, have become pretty well rooted, they may be brought into the window, and being placed near the light, will grow rapidly; those in glasses should have the water changed once or twice a week. Chrysanthemums in pots require plenty of water while in bloom, and when their beauty declines, the plants should be taken to a warm part of the garden, or placed in a light shed, to complete their maturity.737.December.—If the geraniums or other plants taken from the borders in autumn, exhibit signs of rottenness, remove the decaying parts, and dust the wounds with quick-lime or sulphur, keep them comparatively dry and as much exposed to the sun as possible; air is essential whenever it can be admitted. Remember previous directions regarding the employment of pans; they are a most fatal source of disease and death when left with water in them. Water sparingly, keep the leaves clean, and wait patiently. Flowering plants must still form the exception, as mentioned last month.738.To manage a Watch.—First: Wind your watch as nearly as possible at the same hour every day.Secondly: Be careful that your key is in good condition, as there is much danger of injuring the machine when the key is worn or cracked;there are more mainsprings and chains broken through a jerk in winding, than from any other cause, which injury will, sooner or later, be the result, if the key be in bad order.Thirdly: As all metals contract by cold, and expand by heat, it must be manifest, that to keep the watch as nearly as possible at one temperature, is a necessary piece of attention.Fourthly: Keep the watch as constantly as possible in one position—that is, if it hangs by day, let it hang by night against something soft.Fifthly: the hands of a pocket-chronometer or duplex watch, should never be set backwards; in other watches this is a matter of no consequence.Sixthly: The glass should never be opened in watches that set and regulate at the back. One or two other directions more, it is of vital importance that you bear in mind. On regulating a watch, should it be fast, move the regulator a trifle towards the slow, and if going slow, do the reverse; you cannot move the regulator too slightly or too gently at a time, and the only inconvenience that can arise is, that you may have to perform the duty more than once. On the contrary, if you move the regulator too much at a time you will be as far, if not farther than ever, from attaining your object; so that you may repeat the movement until quite tired and disappointed—stoutly blaming both watch and watch-maker, while the fault is entirely your own. Again, you cannot be too careful in respect of the nature and condition of your watch-pocket; see that it be made of some material that is soft and pliant—such as wash-leather, which is the best; and, also, that there be no flue or nap that may be torn off when taking the watch out of the pocket. Cleanliness, too, is as needful here as in the key before winding; for if there be dust or dirt in either instance, it will, you may rely upon it, work its way into the watch, as well as wear away the engine turning of the case.PART IV.DOMESTIC ECONOMY, AND OTHER MATTERS WORTH KNOWING.Of the different kinds of Tea, Coffee, &c.—Preserving Fruits, Flowers, &c.—Care of Fires—and other Hints.TEAS.739.—The names of the different kinds of tea, relate to the time of their being gathered, or to some peculiarity in their manufacture. It is a general rule, that all tea is fine in proportion to the tenderness and immaturity of the leaves. The quality and value of the different kinds diminish as they are gathered later in the season.Black Teas.—As soon as the leaf-bud begins to expand, it is gathered to makePekoe. A few days' later growth produces black-leaved Pekoe. The next picking is calledSouchong; as the leaves grow larger and more mature, they formCongou; and the last picking isBohea.Boheais called by the Chinese,Ta-cha(large tea), on account of the maturity and size of the leaves; it contains a larger proportion of woody fibre than other teas, and its infusion is of a darker color and coarser flavor.Congou, the next higher kind, is named from a corruption of the ChineseKoong-foa(great care, or assiduity). This forms the bulk of the black tea imported, and is mostly valued for its strength.Souchong—Seaou-choong(small, scarce sort), is the finest of the stronger black tea, with a leaf that is generally entire and curly. It is much esteemed for its fragrance and fine flavor.Pekoeis a corruption of the Canton name,Pak-ho(whitedown), being the first sprouts of the leaf-buds; they are covered with a white silky down. It is a delicate tea, rather deficient in strength, and is principally used for flavoring other teas.740.Green Teas.—The following are the principal kinds:Twankay,Hyson-Skin,Hyson,Gunpowder, andYoung Hyson.Young Hysonis a delicate young leaf, called in the original language,Yu-tsien(before the rains), because gathered in the early spring.Hyson, from the Chinese wordHe-tchune, which means, flourishing spring. This fine tea is gathered early in the season, and prepared with great care and labor. Each leaf is picked separately, and nipped off above the footstalk, and every separate leaf is rolled in the hand. It is much esteemed for its flavor.Gunpowder Teais only Hyson rolled and rounded, to give it thegranularappearance whence it derives its name. The Chinese call itChoo-cha(pearl tea).Hyson-Skinis so named from the Chinese term, in which connectionskinmeans the refuse, or inferior portion. In preparing Hyson, all leaves that are of a coarse yellow, or imperfectly twisted appearance, are separated, and sold asskin-tea, at an inferior price.Twankayis the last picking of green tea, and the leaf is not rolled or twisted as much as the dearer descriptions. There is altogether less trouble bestowed on the preparation.COFFEE.741.—The infusion or decoction of the roasted seeds of the coffee-berry, when not too strong, is a wholesome, exhilarating, and strengthening beverage; and, when mixed with a large proportion of milk, is a proper article of diet for literary and sedentary people. It is especially suited to persons advanced in years. People who are bilious and liable to costiveness, should abstain from it. When drank very strong, it proves stimulating and heating in a considerable degree, creating thirst and producing watchfulness. By an abusive indulgence in this drink, the organs of digestion are impaired, the appetite is destroyed, nutrition is impeded, and emaciation, general debility, paralytic affections, and nervous fever, are brought on.742.Proper method of making Toast and Water, and the advantages resulting therefrom.—Take a slice of fine and stale loaf-bread, cut very thin—as thin as toast is ever cut—and let it be carefully toasted on both sides, until it becompletely browned all over, but nowise blackened or burned in any way. Put this into a common deep stone or china jug, and pour over it, from the tea-kettle, as much clean boiling water as you wish to make into drink. Much depends on the water being actually in a boiling state. Cover the jug with a saucer or plate, and let the drink cool until it be quite cold; it is then fit to be used. The fresher it is made the better, and of course the more agreeable. The above will be found a pleasant, light, and highly-diuretic drink. It is peculiarly grateful to the stomach, and excellent for carrying off the effects of any excess in drinking. It is also a most excellent drink at meals, and may be used in the summer-time, if more agreeable to the drinker.743.Baked Milk.—Put half a gallon of milk into a jar, and tie it down with writing-paper. Let it stand in a moderately warm oven about eight or ten hours. It will then be of the consistence of cream. It is used by persons who are weak or consumptive.744.Substitute for Cream, in Tea or Coffee.—Beat the white of an egg to a froth, put to it a very small lump of butter, and mix well. Then turn the coffee to it gradually, so that it may not curdle. If perfectly done, it will be an excellent substitute for cream. For tea, omit the butter, using only the egg. This might be of great use at sea, as eggs can be preserved fresh in various ways.745.Economical use of Nutmegs.—If a person begin to grate a nutmeg at thestalkend, it will prove hollow throughout; whereas thesamenutmeg, grated from theotherend, would have proved sound and solid to the last. This circumstance may thus be accounted for:—The centre of a nutmeg consists of a number of fibres issuing from the stalk, and its continuation through the centre of the fruit; the other ends of which fibres, though closely surrounded and pressed by the fruit, do not adhere to it. When the stalk is grated away, those fibres, having lost their hold, gradually drop out, and the nutmeg appears hollow: as more of the stalk is grated away, others drop outin succession, and the hollow continues through the whole nut. By beginning at the contrary end, the fibres above-mentioned are grated off at their core end, with the surrounding fruit, and do not drop out and cause a hole.746.To ascertain the quality of Nutmegs.—Oil of nutmegs being of great value, it is often extracted from the nuts which are exposed to sale, and which are thereby rendered of very little value. To ascertain the quality of nutmegs, force a pin into them; and if good, however dry they may appear, the oil will be seen oozing out all round the pin.747.Essence of Nutmeg.—Is made by dissolving one ounce of the essential oil in a pint of rectified spirits. It is an expensive but invaluable mode of flavoring, in the arts of the cook or confectioner.748.To make Essence of Celery.—Soak for a fortnight half an ounce of the seeds of celery in one gill of brandy. A few drops will flavor a pint of soup or broth equal to a head of celery.749.Tincture of Lemon-peel.—Fill a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of brandy; when a lemon is used, pare off the rind very thin, and put it into the brandy. In two weeks the spirit will be strongly impregnated with the flavor of the lemon.750.To test the purity of Spirits.—See if the liquor will burn away entirely: or, place a hollow ivory-ball in it; the deeper the ball sinks, the lighter the liquor, and consequently more spirituous.751.To purify Olive Oil.—Turn the oil into a crock or bottle, and pour in a quantity of pure water; shake the vessel vigorously, and let it stand two hours. The mucilaginous matter which is the cause of rancidity, will be separated from the oil, and remain in the water. The oil can be decanted, and re-bottled for use.752.To preserve Eggs.—The most simple and easy mode of preserving eggs, is to rub the outside of the shell, as soon as gathered from the nest, with a little butter, or any other greasethat is not fetid. By filling up the pores of the shell, the evaporation of the liquid part of the egg is prevented; and either by that means, or by excluding the external air, which Fourcroy supposes destroys the milkiness which most people are fond of in new-laid eggs, that milkiness will be preserved for mouths, as perfect as when the egg was taken from the nest.753.Cream preserved in Long Voyages.—Mix with a quantity of fresh rich cream half its weight of white sugar in powder; stir the whole well together, and preserve it in bottles well corked. In this state it is ready to mix with tea or coffee, and has continued in good condition during a voyage to America.754.To preserve Hazel Nuts in great perfection for many months.—Hazel nuts may be kept a long time in full kernel by burying them in earthen pots, well closed, a foot or two in the ground. They keep best in gravelly or sandy places.755.Easy Method of preserving Animal Food.—Fresh meat may be kept for nine or ten days perfectly sweet and good, in the heat of summer, by lightly covering the same with bran, and hanging it in a high and windy room; a cupboard full of small holes, or a wire safe, is recommended to be placed in such a room, to keep away the flies.756.To purify Lemon-juice.—Add one ounce of pulverized, well burnt charcoal, to a quart of lemon-juice; after standing twelve hours, filter the juice through white blotting-paper; it will keep good several years in a cellar, in a bottle, well corked; a thick crust will form beneath the cork, and the mucilage will fall to the bottom.757.To detect Copper in Liquids.—Spirit of hartshorn mixed with them, turns them blue. Therefore tea is not dried on copper, as an infusion of it is not turned blue by this mixture. Cider, being passed through brass pots, is detected by this experiment.—Dr. Moyes' Lectures.758.To detect the Mixture of Arsenic.—A solution of blue vitriol dropped into any liquid in which arsenic has been put, will turn it green.759.To test Mushrooms.—Rub the upper skin with a gold ring or any piece of gold: the part rubbed will turn yellow if it is apoisonous fungus.760.To prepare Salt.—Set a lump of salt in a plate before the fire, and when dry, pound it in a mortar, or rub two pieces of salt together; it will then be free from lumps, and in very fine powder.761.To make Cheap and Good Vinegar.—To eight gallons of clear rain water, add three quarts of molasses; turn the mixture into a clean tight cask, shake it well two or three times, and add three spoonsful of good yeast, or two yeast cakes. Place the cask in a warm place, and in ten or fifteen days, add a sheet of common wrapping-paper, smeared with molasses, and torn into narrow strips, and you will have good vinegar. The paper is necessary to form the "mother," or life of the liquor.762.To prevent Mouldiness.—The best preventive is any of the essential oils, as the oil of lavender, cloves, peppermint, &c. Russia leather, which is scented with the tar of the birch-tree, is not subject to mouldiness, and books bound in it will even prevent mouldiness in other books bound in calf, near which they happen to lie.Aromatic seeds are not subject to mould, and gingerbread, or cakes containing caraway seeds are far less liable to mouldiness than plain bread. Children have been poisoned by eating mouldy bread.763.To keep Fruits.—To preserve fruits, you must keep them in a room rather above the ground floor, sheltered alike from the sun and damp; it is even prudent, in order to avoid opening the windows, to let out the humid exhalations of the fruit, to have a stove in the room, and light a fire in it now and then. The decaying fruit should be carefully removed. Cherries, grapes, &c., are kept sound by hanging them to threads, and then inclosing them in new boxes or barrels; these are closed as tightly as possible, and deposited in a dry place. Some preserve them by laying them in sawdust or bran.764.To preserve Apples.—Dry a glazed jar perfectly well, put a few pebbles in the bottom; fill the jar with apples, andcover it with a bit of wood made to fit exactly; and over that, put a little fresh mortar. The pebbles attract the damp of the apples. The mortar draws the air from the jar, and leaves the apples free from its pressure, which, together with the principle of putrefaction which the air contains, are the causes of decay. Apples, kept thus, have been found quite sound, fair, and juicy, in July.765.To keep Potatoes from frost.—If you have not a convenient store-place for them, dig a trench three or four feet deep, into which they are to be laid as they are taken up, and then covered with the earth taken out of the trench, raised up in the middle like the roof of a house, and covered with straw, to carry off the rain. They will be thus preserved from the frost, and can be taken up as they are wanted.766.To dry Corn for winter use.—Sweet corn is the best. Husk it. Have a pot of boiling water—put in your corn and let it boil three minutes—then cut it from the cobs and put it in pans in a warm oven. It must be stirred frequently; when perfectly dry put it away in bags. When wanted for use, soak it all night, next day boil it an hour with a little salt; before it is dished stir in flour, pepper, and butter.767.To preserve Aromatic and other Herbs.—The boxes and drawers in which vegetable matters are kept should not impart to them any smell or taste; and more certainly to avoid this, they should be lined with paper. Such as are volatile, of a delicate texture, or subject to suffer from insects, must be kept in well covered glasses. Fruits and oily seeds, which are apt to become rancid, must be kept in a cool and dry, but by no means in a warm or moist place.768.To dry Herbs.—Dry the gathered crop, thinly spread out, and shaded from the sun; tie the herbs in small bundles, and keep them compactly pressed down and covered with white paper. Or, after drying them, put each sort into a small box, and by means of boards, of the size of the interior length and width of the box, and a screw-press, press the herbs into cakes, or little trusses. These should be afterwards carefully wrapped up in paper, and be kept in a dry place, when they will retain their aroma as perfectly as when they were put into the press,for, at least, three years. By the common mode of hanging up herbs in loose bundles, the odor soon escapes.769.To dry Chamomile Flowers.—Pull them, from time to time, as they are produced; for the plants continue to blossom in succession for several months. When gathered, dry them gradually, partly in the sun, and partly in the shade, by being spread upon a mat or sheet, removed out of the sun in the heat of the day, and placed in it mornings and evenings.Lavender Flowersshould also be dried as chamomiles.Marigold Flowers, dried, improve broths and soups, however much they may have got into disuse.770.Winter Herbs.—The best time for gathering herbs for winter use is when they are in blossom. If left till they are in seed, the strength goes to the seed. They are best picked from the stocks, dried quickly (but not burnt), before the fire, and rubbed into powder, then bottled.771.Galvanism a Protector of Trees.—A German journal states that the application of galvanism has been made in Austria for preserving trees and plants from the ravages of insects. The process is very simple, consisting only in placing two rings, one of copper, the other of zinc, attached together, around the tree or plant. Any insect that touches the copper receives an electric shock, which kills it or causes it to fall to the ground.772.Moss on Trees.—The following is an excellent application to the scraped trunk to prevent the growth of moss, and destroy eggs of insects. One gallon of soft soap, one pound of flour of sulphur, and one quart of salt, to be well stirred together and put on with a hard brush.773.To destroy Caterpillars in Gooseberry Trees.—Gather dust from any turnpike road, and shake it well among the trees, and the caterpillars will immediately fall to the ground. It is an excellent plan to dust the trees twice or three times a week, as it will effectually prevent the lodgment of caterpillars.774.A neat method of Grafting.—Prepare the stock and the graft in the same way as for grafting with clay in the commonway. Then take a long slip of India-rubber, three-quarters of an inch broad, and about the thickness of a shilling. Tie one end of this elastic riband with a thread, well prepared by rubbing with shoemakers' wax, to the stock, a little below where it is cut for being joined to the graft; then make the joint as neatly as possible, and wrap it round with the riband, taking due care to keep the India-rubber fully stretched, and to make it overlap at each turn fully one-half of the breadth of the previous round, till the whole is covered, then tie the top with a thread in the same manner as at the bottom, and the operation is finished. After grafting the trees in the manner described, nothing is done to them till they are completely set, when the India-rubber slips are taken off to be ready again for the next year. When opened up, there is scarcely any appearance of a joint, and altogether they are much neater than when done with clay.775.To Kill Vermin on Plants.—Tobacco water is much used for the above purposes; it is made by pouring a gallon of boiling water upon a pound of tobacco leaves, and straining it in twenty minutes.Or, syringe the plants with this mixture: put into a jar five gallons of spring water and four ounces of chloride of lime, to which add four ounces of vitriol; when the lime is precipitated, pour off the clear solution, and keep it air-tight.Or, mix coal tar and water, and sprinkle it over the infected plants.776.To Propagate Plants.—It may be received as a general principle, that all plants which produce shoots may be propagated by cuttings; though some plants are much more difficult to propagate in this manner than others. Generally speaking, all the soft-wooded plants which have abundance of sap, such as geraniums, fuchsias, petunias, and verbenas, strike root readily. The usual mode for striking cuttings is to put them in fine sand, and to cover them with a bell-glass. Some cuttings which are difficult to strike are directed to have bottom heat; that is, the pots in which they are planted should be plunged into a hot-bed, that the stimulus afforded by the heat may induce the cuttings to throw out roots.777.Plants watered by being placed in Dishes, improper.—The practice of placing flats or saucers under plants, and feeding them by the roots, that is, pouring the water continually into these dishes, and never on the earth at top, is highly improper. The water should always be poured on the surface of the earth, that it may filter completely through it, to the benefit and refreshment of the fibres.778.When to plant Annual and Perennial Flowers.—Many kinds of annuals and perennials, sown in March and the beginning of April, will be fit for transplanting about the end of May, and may either be planted in patches about borders, or in beds, as fancy shall direct. Of these, the kinds improved by transplanting are, amaranthuses, China asters, columbines, French and African marigolds, fox-gloves, hollyhocks, India pinks, love-lies-bleeding, mallows, mignonette, prince's feather, scabious, stocks, sun-flowers, sweet-williams, wall-flowers, and others. They should be planted out in a showery time, if possible, or otherwise be frequently watered, till they have struck root.779.To preserve Flower Seeds.—Those who are curious about saving flower-seeds must attend to them in the month of August. Many kinds will begin to ripen apace, and should be carefully sticked and supported, to prevent them from being shaken by high winds, and so partly lost. Others should be defended from much wet; such as asters, marigolds, and generally those of the class Syngenesia; as from the construction of their flowers they are apt to rot, and the seeds to mould, in bad seasons. Whenever they are thought ripe, or indeed any others, in wet weather, they should be removed to an airy shed or loft, gradually dried, and rubbed or beat out at conveniency.780.Easy Method of discovering whether or not Seeds are sufficiently ripe.—Seeds, when not sufficiently ripe, will swim, but when arrived at full maturity, they will be found uniformly to fall to the bottom; a fact that is said to hold equally true of all seeds, from the cocoa-nut to the orchis.HINTS TO FARMERS.781. There are some things that all farmers ought to know.Sheep put into fresh stubble are apt to be killed by eating too much grain.A bare pasture enriches not the soil, nor fattens the animals, nor increases the wealth of the owner.One animal well fed is of more value than two poorly kept.The better animals can be fed, and the more comfortable they can be kept, the more profitable they are—and all farmers work for profit.Ground once well plowed is better than thrice poorly.Bountiful crops are more profitable than poor ones. Make the soil rich, pulverize it well, and keep it clean, and it generally will be productive.Weeds that grow unmolested around the fences, stumps, and stones, scatter their seeds over the farm, and are very likely to increase.Cows well fed in winter give more milk in summer. An ox that is in good condition in the spring, will perform more labor, and stand the heat of summer much better than one that is poor.When you see the fence down, put it up: if it remains until to-morrow, the cattle may get over.What ought to be done to-day, do it; for to-morrow it may rain.A strong horse will work all day without food, but keep him at it, and he will not last long.A rich soil will produce good crops without manure, but keep it at it, and it will tire.Farmers' sons had better learn to hold the plow, and feed the pigs, than measure tape and count buttons.Young ladies who have the good fortune to become farmers' wives will find it more profitable to know how to make Johnny-cake, butter, and cheese, than to play on the piano.All who wish to be rich, must spend less than they earn.MANAGEMENT OF A HORSE.782. When a horse is brought in hot, loosen the girth, and allow the saddle to remain on for five minutes. Let him bewalked about in summer, and, in the winter, be put directly in the stable.A horse should not be permitted to drink cold water, whilst warm; neither should the legs or feet of a horse be washed, until he gets cold.Horses prefer soft water, and it is best for them. If the water be very hard and brackish, put a small piece of chalk into a pail of water, some time before it is given to the horse.Fourteen pounds of hay in one day, or one hundred pounds a week, with three feeds of corn a day, are sufficient for a horse that is not over-worked.In travelling, after the principal feed, let a horse have not less than two hours' rest, that his food may have time to digest.After a hard day's work, give a horse about two gallons of gruel, made with a quart of oatmeal, half a gallon of ale, half a quartern of brandy, and the proper quantity of water. Wetted bran may be given advantageously to lean horses.783.To dress a Horse.—On entering the stable, first give him about a gallon of clean water in a clean pail; then shake up the best litter under the manger, sweep out the stall, and clean out the stable.Whilst the horse is feeding,dresshim: first, curry him all over with the currycomb, to loosen the dirt and dust on his skin; then remove the dust with a whalebone brush; next, smooth and cleanse the coat with a wisp of straw; and again use the brush and currycomb, to take off what dust may remain; after which, whisk him again with a damp lock of hay; and, finally, rub him down with a woollen or linen cloth.Then turn round the horse in the stall, brush his head well, and wisp it clean and smooth with a damp lock of hay. Then wipe the dust and filth from the inside of the ears with a damp sponge, and draw the ears through the hands for a few minutes, until they are warm. Wash out the sponge, and with it cleanse the dust, &c., from the eyes; sponge the nostrils, and then rub the whole head with a cloth, in the same manner as the body.Next, turn the horse round into his proper situation, put on the head-stall, and with a sponge wash the dirt and filth from under the tail. Then, clean and lay the mane with a comb and water-brush, used alternately with both hands; again wipe over the head and body, put on the body-clothes, and fasten them with a surcingle.Examine the heels, pick out the dirt from the feet, and wash the heels with a brush and plenty of water. If the horse has bad feet, they should be dressed and stuffed.Lastly, shake hay into the rack; and then the horse will be completely dressed.784.Horse Flies.—To prevent horses being teased with flies, take two or three small handfuls of walnut leaves, upon which pour two or three quarts of soft cold water; let it infuse one night; pour the whole next morning into a kettle, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour: when cold, it will be ready for use. Nothing more is required than to moisten a sponge with the liquid, and, before the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts which are most irritable be smeared over with the liquor, namely, between and upon the ears, the flank, &c.785.To milk Cows.—A cow should be milkedclean. Not a drop, if it can be avoided, should be left in the udder. It has been proved that the half-pint that comes outlast, hastwelve times, I think it is, as much butter in it, as the half-pint that comes outfirst. The udder would seem to be a sort of milk-pan, in which the cream is uppermost, and, of course, comes out last, seeing that the outlet is at the bottom. But, besides this, if you do not milk clean, the cow will give less and less milk, and will become dry much sooner than she ought.—Cobbett.RAISING POULTRY.786. There is scarcely any branch of farming operations more productive than the raising of poultry for market; and yet, with a large majority of our agriculturists, it is considered of but little account. The proximity to a great market, and the facilities for reaching it possessed by many of our farmers in this country, should make the rearing of poultry an object of attention.787.To fatten Poultry.—Poultry should be fattened in coops, and kept very clean. They should be furnished with gravel, but with no water. Their only food, barley-meal, mixed so thin with water, as to serve them for drink. Their thirst makes them eat more than they would, in order to extract the waterthat is among the food. This should not be put in troughs but laid upon a board, which should be clean washed every time fresh food is put upon it. It is foul and heated water which is the sole cause of the pip.788.Method of expeditiously fattening Chickens.—Take, for that purpose, a quantity of rice, and grind or pound it into a fine flour; mix sufficient for present use with milk and a little coarse sugar; stir the whole well over the fire, till it makes a thick paste; and feed the chickens, in the day-time only, by putting as much of it as they can eat, but no more, into the troughs belonging to their coops. It must be eaten while warm; and, if they have also beer to drink, they will soon grow very fat. A mixture of oatmeal and treacle, combined till it crumbles, is said to form a food for chickens, of which they are so fond, and with which they thrive so rapidly, that at the end of two months they become as large as the generality of full-grown fowls fed in the common way.789.Method of fattening Geese and Ducks.—Geese, the more quiet and undisturbed they are kept, the faster and better they fatten. Put young geese into a place that is almost dark; feed them with ground malt mixed with milk, and they will very soon, and at very little expense, be fit to kill.Another way is cheaper still:—Mix barley-meal, pretty thick, with water, which they must constantly have by them, to eat as they choose; in another part of the shed where they are, keep a pan with some boiled oats and water, for them to resort to when they are inclined to change their food. This variety is agreeable to them, and they thrive apace, being so fattened at less expense than in any other manner.790.Cobbett's method of fattening Geese.—Geese are raised bygrazing: but, to fat them, something more is required. Corn of some sort, or boiled Swedish turnips, or carrots, or white cabbages, or lettuces, make the best fatting. The modes that are resorted to by the French for fatting geese, are, I hope, such as Englishmen will never think of. He who can deliberately inflicttortureupon an animal, in order to heighten the pleasure his palate is to receive in eating it, is an abuser of the authority which God has given him, and is, indeed, a tyrant in his heart. Who would think himself safe, if at themercyof such a man?791.Swedish method of raising Turkeys.—As soon as the young turkeys leave the shell, they are made to swallow one or two pepper-corns, and returned to their mother. They are afterwards fed with crumbs of bread and milk, and with common dock-leaves, chopped small, and mixed with fresh buttermilk, and kept in a warm place or sunshine, and guarded from the rain or from running among nettles.Nothing, however, is more useful for them than the common garden pepper-cress, or cut-leaved cress. They are very fond of it; and, supplied with as much of it as they will eat, they will not be delicate in their other food.792.To fatten Turkeys as they do in Norfolk.—The quality and size of the Norfolk turkeys are superior to those of any other part of England. They are fed almost entirely with buckwheat; and give them with it boiled oats, boiled malt, or boiled barley, and sometimes, for change, even boiled wheat and water.793.To fatten Ducks.—Feed them with the same food as the turkeys or geese, and let them have a pan of water to dabble in.794.To make Hens lay perpetually.—Hens will lay perpetually, if treated in the following manner:—Keep no roosters (cocks): give the hens fresh meat, chopped up like sausage-meat, once a day; a very small portion, say half an ounce a day to each hen, during the winter, or from the time insects disappear in the fall till they appear again in the spring. Never allow any eggs to remain in the nest for what are called "nest eggs." When the roosters do not run with the hens, and no nest eggs are left in the nest, the hens will not cease laying after the production of twelve or fifteen eggs, as they always do when roosters and nest eggs are allowed; but continue laying perpetually. The only reason why hens do not lay in winter as freely as in summer, is the want of animal food, which they get in summer in abundance, in the form of insects.HINTS FOR THE PRESERVATION OF HUMAN LIFE FROM FIRE.795.Cautions.—Sweep chimneys regularly; sweep frequently the lower part of the chimney within reach; the kitchen chimney should be swept once a month.796.Fires in Chimneys.—When a chimney or flue is on fire, throw into the fire-place handfuls of flour of sulphur, which will destroy the flame. Or, apply a wet blanket, or old carpet, to the throat of the chimney, or over the front of the fire-place. A chimney-board, or register-flap, will answer the same purpose, by stopping the draught of air from below.Beware of lights near combustibles; of children near fires and lights; and do not trust them with candles. Do not leave clothes to dry by the fire unwatched, either day or night; do not leave the poker in the fire; see that all be safe before you retire to rest.797.Persons in Danger.—Whena firehappens, put it out in its earliest stage; if suffered to extend itself, give the alarm. Beware of opening doors, &c., to increase the fire by fresh air. Muster the whole family, see that none are missing. First save lives, then property. Think of the ways of escape; by the stairs, if no better way—creep along a room where the fire is, and creep down stairs backwards on hands and knees—(heated air ascends); come down stairs with a pillow before your face, and a wet blanket round the body, and hold your breath; or try the roof of the adjoining house. Throw out of the window a feather bed, to leap upon in the last extremity—fasten fire-escapes to the bed-posts first—send children down by the sack fastened to a rope, taking care of the iron spikes and area; then lower yourselves.798.Means of Extinction.—The safety of the inmates being ascertained, the first object at a fire should be the exclusion of all fresh and the confinement of all burnt air—suffocatethe flames—and remember that burnt air is as great, if not a greater enemy to fire than water. For both purposes, of excluding the one air, and confining the other, all openings should be kept as carefully closed as possible. The prevailing practice ofbreaking windowsis peculiarly mischievous. The only excuse for this is the admission of water; but if the firemen were providedwith self supporting ladders, (that need not lean against the wall,) they might direct the water-hose through a single broken pane, with ten times more accuracy than by their random squirting from the street. Water should be made to beat out the fire by its impetus; sprinkling is useless.799.Neighbors and Spectators.—When a fire happens, let everyrespectableneighbor attend. Send instantly for engines, both of the parish and of the insurance companies, and the parish and other ladder and fire-escapes. Look for the nearest fireplug—send instantly for policemen, and see they attend, and are active.
700.To make Ink.—To four ounces of bruised galls, allow two of copperas and two of gum-arabic; put the galls into a large bottle, with three pints of rain water; and, in three or four days, dissolve the gum in hot water, and add it with the copperas. Shake the bottle frequently for some days. A few cloves may be put into the bottle, to prevent the ink from moulding.701.Ink Powder.—Take five ounces of the cleanest nutgalls, bruise them, and sift the powder very fine; then add one ounce of white copperas, two ounces of Roman vitriol, gum-arabic, half an ounce; pound and sift them very fine. An ounce of this powder will make a pint of very black ink.702.To prevent Ink from moulding.—Half-a-dozen cloves, bruised with gum-arabic, are to be put into the bottle. If a very fine ink is wanted, white wine, or vinegar and water, should be used, instead of water alone.703.To make Indian Ink.—Put six lighted wicks into a dish of oil; hang an iron or tin concave cover over it, so as to receive all the smoke; when there is a sufficient quantity of soot settled to the cover, then take it off gently with a feather upon a sheet of paper, and mix it up with gum-tragacanth to a proper consistence.N. B. The clearest oil makes the finest soot, consequently the best ink.704.Indian Ink.—Take horse-beans, burn them till they are perfectly black, grind them to a fine powder, and, with weak gum-arabic water make it into a paste, and form it into long square cakes.705.To make China Ink.—Take dried black horse-beans, burn them to a powder, mix them up with gum-arabic water, and bring them to a mass; press it well, and let it dry.MANAGEMENT OF CANARY-BIRDS.706. Canary-birds, that are kept tame, will breed three or four times in the year. Towards the middle of March, begin to match your birds, putting one cock and hen into the breeding-cage, which should be large, so that the birds may have room to fly and exercise themselves. Place two boxes or little basket-nests in the cage, for the hen to lay her eggs in, because she will sometimes have a second brood before the first are fit to fly, leaving the care of them to the father-bird, who feeds and brings them up with much care, while she is sitting on her second nest of eggs. Whilst your birds are pairing, feed them, besides the usual seeds, with the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, bread that has been moistened, or, if hard, grated fine, and pounded almond-meat. When the young birds are to be fed, give the same soft food, and be sure have it fresh every day; also furnish the old birds with fresh greens, such as cabbage-lettuce, chick weed, groundsel, &c. Give fresh water every day, and a clean bath every morning. The hen lays, commonly, four or five eggs, and sits fourteen days. When the young are hatched, leave them to the care of the old birds, to nurse and bring up till they can fly and feed themselves, which is, usually, in about twenty days.707.Gold and Silver Fish.—Pure rain-water is best to keep these delicate little creatures in; they should never be put into water that has been boiled. It is a good plan to throw them in the morning into a large bowl of fresh water, with a few bread-crumbs in it, and let them remain there an hour. Then put them in pure fresh water in their vases. The water should be changed every day. If the bread remains in the water to become sour, it will kill the fish.708.Improvement in the management of Bees.—The improvement is that of having double skeps or hives, the one on the top of the other. When the lower skep is filled with honey, it is to be removed after the bees are admitted (through a passage which is made to be opened) into the upper skep; into this skep food must be put, and the bees will remain there, and go on with their work in it. When it is filled with honey, the former skep, with food in it, may be replaced, and the bees again admitted into it. The full skep is then to be taken away. This change of the skeps must always be made about midsummer; and by thus annually removing the full one, more honey will be collected than is usual, and the bees will not be destroyed.709.To preserve Flowers in Water.—Mix a little carbonate of soda with the water, and it will preserve the flowers for a fortnight. Common saltpetre is also a good preservative.710.To preserve Flowers in Winter.—Take the latest buds just as they are ready to open; cut them off, leaving the stem about three inches long; cover the end of the stem with melted sealing-wax, and when the buds are a little withered, wrap them separately in paper, and place them in a dry box. When you wish to have the buds blossom, cut off the sealed end, and put them into water in which a little saltpetre has been dissolved. In twelve hours the buds will be open.711.To take Impressions of Leaves.—Dissolve in a saucerful of water about a tea-spoonful of bichromate of potash. Pass the paper to be used through this solution, and, while wet, press the leaves lightly upon it, and expose it to the sun when it is shining brightly. When perfectly dry, remove the leaves, and afac-similewill be left in a light lemon shade, while the rest of the paper will be of a dark brown.712.To preserve the natural color in Petals of dried Flowers.—Immerse the petals for some minutes in alcohol. The colors will fade at first, but in a short time they will resume, permanently, their natural tint.713.To revive faded Flowers.—Nearly all flowers may be revived, when faded, by placing one-third of the stalks in hot water; when it has become cold, the flowers will be re-set and fresh; the end of the stalks should then be cut off and the flowers put into cold water.Or, dip flowers in spirits of wine for twenty minutes; at first they will appear to have entirely faded; but in drying, the colors will revive, and the fragrance be prolonged.A few grains of salt put into the water with flowers, will keep them from fading.Sand may be substituted for water.Flowers may be preserved throughout the winter, if plucked when they are half-blown, dipped, stalks downward, in equal quantities of water and verjuice mixed, and sprinkled with bay salt. They should be kept in an earthenware vessel, closely covered, and in a warm place; when, in mid-winter, if the flowers be taken out, washed in cold water, and held before a gentle fire, they will open as if in their first bloom.714.To paint Cloth, Cambric, Sarcenet, &c., so as to render them Transparent.—Grind to a fine powder three pounds of clear white resin, and put it into two pounds of good nut-oil, to which a strong drying quality has been given: set the mixture over a moderate fire, and keep stirring it till all the resin is dissolved; then put in two pounds of the best Venice turpentine, and keep stirring the whole well together; and if the cloth or cambric be thoroughly varnished on both sides with this mixture, it will be quite transparent. In this operation, the surface upon which the varnish is to be applied, must be stretched tight and made fast during the application. This mode of rendering cloth, &c. transparent, is excellently adapted for window-blinds. The varnish will likewise admit of any design in oil-colors being executed upon it as a transparency.715.Varnish to prevent the rays of the Sun from passing through the glasses of Windows.—Pulverize gum-tragacanth, and put it to dissolve for twenty-four hours in whites of eggs,well beaten. Lay a coat of this on the panes of your windows, with a soft brush, and let it dry.716.To stain paper or parchment Yellow.—Paper may be stained of a beautiful yellow, by the tincture of turmeric, formed by infusing an ounce or more of the root, powdered, in a pint of spirit of wine. This, by the addition of water, may be made to give any tint of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full color called French yellow, and will be equal in brightness even to the best dyed silks. If yellow is wanted of a warmer or redder cast, anotta, or dragon's blood, must be added to the tincture.717.To stain paper or parchment Crimson.—A very fine crimson stain may be given to paper, by a tincture of the Indian lake, which may be made by infusing the lake some days in spirit of wine, and then pouring off the tincture from the dregs.718.To stain paper or parchment Green.—Paper or parchment may be stained green by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or by the crystals of verdigris dissolved in water; also by the solution of copper in aquafortis, made by adding filings of copper, gradually, to the aquafortis, till no ebullition ensues; or, the spirit of salt may be substituted for the aquafortis.HOUSE-PLANTS.719. Plants require much light and fresh air; a light garret is an excellent place for them; even those which will not bear the outer air, must have the air of the room frequently freshened by ventilation, to preserve them in health. They should not stand in a draught of air. In frosty weather the windows should be kept close, and at night, the shutters. In sharp frost, instead of stirring out the fire, leave a little on retiring to rest, with a guard before it for security.As a general rule, never water plants while the sun shines. The time should be in the evening, or early in the morning, unless it be confined to watering the roots, in which case transplanted plants, and others in a growing state, may be watered at any time; and, if they are shaded from the sun, they may also be watered over the tops.The water, if taken from a well or cold spring, should be exposed one day to the sun, otherwise it will chill the plants. A small quantity only should be applied at a time, that it may have the effect of refreshing rain.Rain water is the best for plants; next river water; hard spring water is the worst.720.To air Plants, and ventilate Rooms wherein they are contained.—Plants should have air, every day in the year, to make them grow well; but this matter, in sitting-rooms, will not of course be regulated for their sakes, especially in the colder seasons. Wherever placed, however, some attention should be paid to airing and ventilating the rooms regularly, by opening the windows, and occasionally the doors, in order to excite a free circulation of air. This should be done to a certain extent every day, according to the state of the weather, except in the time of severe frost, when it would not be advisable to admit external air. But at such times, if bad weather be of long continuance, the rooms may be ventilated by means of the doors, and by exciting a current of air in the passages, or other parts of the house.In very severe frost, or in a continuation of damp weather, moderate fires should be made for the sake of the plants, if placed in rooms not occupied. The window shutters should also be closed at night.721.Hints to Lovers of Flowers.—A most beautiful and easily-attained show of evergreens may be had by a very simple plan, which has been found to answer remarkably well on a small scale. If geranium branches taken from luxuriant and healthy trees, just before the winter sets in, be cut as for slips, and immersed in soap-water, they will, after drooping for a few days, shed their leaves, put forth fresh ones; and continue in the finest vigor all the winter. By placing a number of bottles thus filled in a flower-basket, with moss to conceal the bottles, a show of evergreens is easily insured for the whole season. They require no fresh water.722.Bulbous Roots.—The time to put bulbous roots, as the hyacinth, narcissus, and jonquil, into glasses filled with water, is from September to November, and the earliest will begin blooming about Christmas. The glasses should be blue, as thatcolor best suits the roots; put in water enough to cover the bulb one third; let the water be soft, change it once a week, and put in a pinch of salt at each change. Keep the glasses in a moderately warm place, and near to the light.They should have fresh water about once in ten days. The leaves should not be plucked off before they decay, or the root will be deprived of much of its natural nourishment. When they have decayed, the bulbs should be taken up, laid in the shade to dry, cleaned, and kept in sand in a dry place till wanted to replant. The offsets should be taken off, and planted according to size.723.Geraniums.—The shrubby kinds are commonly increased by cuttings, which, if planted in June or July, and placed in the shade, will take root in five weeks. They are the most tender, and when placed out of doors, should be defended from strong winds, and be so placed as to enjoy the sun till eleven o'clock in the morning. As the shrubby kinds grow fast, so as to fill the pots with their roots, and push them through the opening at the bottom, they should be moved every two or three weeks in summer, and the fresh roots cut off. They should also be newly potted twice in the summer: once about a month after they are placed abroad, and again towards the end of August. When this is done, all the roots outside the earth should be pared off, and as much of the old earth removed as can be done without injuring the plants. They should then be planted in a larger pot; some fresh earth should first be laid at the bottom, and on that the plant should be placed, so that the old earth adhering to it may be about an inch below the rim of the pot; it should next be filled up, and the pot slightly shaken: the earth must then be gently pressed down at the top, leaving a little space for water to be given without running over the rim; finally, the plant should be liberally watered, and the stem fastened to a stake, to prevent the wind displacing the roots before they are newly fixed.As the branches grow, and new leaves are formed at the top of them, the lower ones may die, and should be plucked off every week.Geranium slips should be planted in May, June, or July, taking only the last year's shoots, from which the leaves must be stripped. When planted, give them water, and place them in the shade: when they have taken root, let them have thesun in the morning. The slips chosen for cutting should not be such as bear flowers; and they should be inserted about half their length in the earth.Geraniums, except the shrubby kinds, require shelter from frost only, and should have free air admitted to them, when the weather is not very severe. In sultry weather, they should all be watered liberally every morning, except some few of a succulent nature, which must be watered sparingly; the latter may be known by plucking a leaf from them. Geraniums may be watered three times a week, when not frosty, in winter.724.Artificial Mould for Plants.—Russian potash, one drachm; water, four ounces; one tea-spoonful of oil. Mix the whole well together. Seeds put in this mixture will grow for a time at least, as well as if planted in common soil.725.To take Impressions of Plants.—Take half a sheet of fine paper, and cover the surface with sweet oil; let it stand a minute or two, then rub off the superficial oil, and hang the paper in the air; when almost dry, move the paper slowly over the flame of a candle or lamp, till it is perfectly black; lay on it the plant or leaf, place a piece of clean paper over, and rub it equally with the fingers for half a minute. Then place the plant on the paper or scrap-book where it is desired to have the impression, cover it with blotting paper, and, on repeating the rubbing, a representation of the plant will appear equal to the finest engraving. The same piece of black paper will serve for a number of impressions.726.Another Process.—Burn a common cork till reduced to powder; mix with it a tea-spoonful of olive oil, making a thick paste. Paint the veiny side of the leaf with a camel-hair brush, and lay it, with the painted side down, on a piece of clean paper. Submit it to a strong and even pressure (it is best placed in a book and put under a weight,) for about fifteen minutes; remove the leaf carefully, and there will be an exact representation left. Very veiny leaves are best. These impressions are almost equal to engravings. Collections of them might be made interesting, by having narratives of rambles written under them, stating the features of the spot from which the leaves were gathered.DIRECTIONS FOR WINDOW-PLANTS.727.Through January and February.—The summer flowering-plants—such as geraniums, fuchsias, &c.—should be kept as nearly dormant as possible, allowing just enough water to prevent flagging, and all the light that can be spared from the more interesting division of winter-bloomers; of the latter class, such things as china-roses, cinerarias, hyacinths and other bulbs, will now be in an active state, some of them flowering, and others about to do so; these must be liberally treated with water. Mignonnette, however, must be excepted. Above everything, keep the leaves clean; they are few in number, and feeble in action, but they have yet an important function to perform; and, without they are kept as healthy as possible, the plant cannot begin a new growth with the vigor it is desirable it should possess. The pots should be occasionally scrubbed with clean water, but do not paint or otherwise fill up their pores, for air is as essential to the roots as to the foliage, and no inconsiderable quantity finds its way to them through the sides of a clean pot. With the same view, the surface of the soil should be frequently stirred; the process keeps it open, prevents the growth of moss and weeds, and imparts a better appearance. The water given should always be rather warmer than the atmosphere of the room; and rain-water, slightly heated, is the best.728.March.—The whole of these plants will be benefited by re-potting. Geraniums and fuchsias delight in light rich earth; calceolarias (lady's slipper), roses, the chimney campanula, and others which grow as freely, should have a larger proportion of loam; whatever manure is added for either, must be thoroughly decayed. The pots should be perfectly clean, inside and out; take care to have each properly drained with pieces of slate or potsherds, in size and number proportionate to the pot; the larger ones require from one to three inches of this drainage. In removing the plants, take off the matted fibres with a knife; loosen the soil moderately, and, when in its place, press the new earth tightly round it; give a gentle watering, and keep them rather warm for a few days; afterwards they should have plenty of air on fine days, and water as they become dry. Station each where it may receive the direct light, and pay particular attention to keeping the leaves clean.729.April.—On the attention given through this month, most of the success for the season will depend. The plants are now, or ought to be, in a very active growth, which must be encouraged by moderate and regular supplies of water and air. Pinch out the points of the growing shoots of such plants as are required to become bushy; this is commonly called "stopping," and, with such things as geraniums, fuchsias, myrtles, and others of similar habit, is very necessary. Cactuses must have a sunny position, and plenty of water. Mignonette in pots and boxes, will require thinning, so as to leave the plants about three inches apart. The several kinds of China roses form beautiful window ornaments, and occasion but little trouble: at this time they are coming rapidly into bloom. Look for and destroy insects of all sorts, every few days; they multiply so fast, that without constant attention, the plants are soon overrun. The leaves must be kept clear of dust, and the branches properly tied out to sticks, that the centre may receive its due share of light.730.May.—As the influence of the advancing season and power of the sun begins to be felt, the management of window-plants becomes easier, and must be gradually changed from the careful nursing hitherto necessary, to a course of almost constant exposure that will render the plants robust and hardy.731.June.—From this time till the middle of September, plants in pots may be placed out of doors; they are, in fact, better in the open air, than in the heated atmosphere of a room. Except in stormy seasons, they may stand out night and day, in some slightly-sheltered spot. As a precaution against the effects of strong sun-light, it is advisable to place the pots in which the plants grow, into others a size or two larger, and fill the space between them with moss; for many plants, having slender fibrous roots, are easily injured by the heat of the sun scorching them through the pot. Such as stand upon the ground, should have a thick layer of ashes spread for them, to prevent worms from creeping in. Wash their leaves frequently with clean water, and remove insects. When any portion of the collection is kept in-doors, a window facing the north or west is to be preferred, and plenty of air must be admitted. As soon as geraniums have done flowering, they should be cut down, re-potted, and the tops struck, to form plants for nextyear. This is a good time to propagate nearly all kinds of pot-plants; most of them strike with freedom on a warm border in sandy soil, covered with a glass, and kept moderately watered. Myrtles, and some other hard-wooded plants, may be struck by placing the cuttings, for about half their length, into a phial filled with water. Seeds must be sown in light earth, as soon as they are thoroughly ripe.732.July.—Fuchsias, in a growing state, should receive a final potting: place them in large, perfectly clean pots, using a mixture of turfy loam and peat, or leaf mould; train the shoots, and water liberally. Geraniums that have done flowering, should also be re-potted; they require a lighter soil, such as one part turfy loam, two parts leaf mould, and the remainder sand: cut down the tops to within two or three joints of their base, and set the plants in a warm sheltered place, to induce them to grow again: the cuttings may be struck in a frame or hand-glass, and will form nice plants by next season. Cactuses should be kept in a sunny situation, and have plenty of water. Camellias which have made their season's growth, may be set out of doors, to ripen. China roses may be re-potted, if requisite, and are easily propagated now, in the same manner as geraniums. Separate and pot violets, for early spring-flowering; keep them and similar plants, as the cyclamen, &c., in the most shaded place out of doors. The whole tribe of lilies are handsome window-plants, and some of the dwarf Japan kinds peculiarly adapted for the purpose; they are just beginning to bloom, and should have plenty of air and water. The Chinese primrose may be sown in pots of light rich earth, and, if covered with a piece of glass, will vegetate quickly, and form nice plants by the autumn. Propagation of such plants as myrtles, sweet-scented verbena, or lemon plant, chimney campanulas, &c., is now easy, and should be attended to without loss of time. Water all the plants with regularity, and in quantities proportionate to their size and the state of the weather; but particularly keep the leaves clean, by frequent sprinklings of clean water and sponging. The essential points in the culture of every plant, is to allow the functions of both roots and leaves to be carried on in a proper manner—the first, by placing them in suitable soil, and the latter, by clearing them of all impurities.733.August.—Needs only a continuance of the attention recommended last month. Let them have plenty of air, light, and water, with a slight protection from the mid-day sun; propagation may still be carried on successfully. Pot the bella-donna and Guernsey lilies, to flower in autumn; and the young plants of the Chinese primrose should be placed three or four together, in pots of light rich earth, and nursed, to forward their growth as far as possible.734.September.—The geraniums cut down in July, will now be pushing forth a number of young shoots; these must be encouraged as much as possible, by keeping the plants in a sheltered place, and duly supplying them with moisture. When the shoots have grown two or three joints, they should be stopped by picking out the points, in order to render them bushy. The cuttings made at the same period will now be fit for potting; put each one separately into a small pot, and treat them as the older plants. Young plants of myrtles, and indeed all others that are properly rooted, should receive similar treatment. Cinerarias are among the most useful of spring-flowering plants, and if a few seedlings can be obtained now, they will make nice plants, with the treatment recommended for geraniums. Cyclamen, Guernsey, or Bella-donna lilies, and Lachenalias should be re-potted; the first and last are very handsome spring-flowering plants, and the lilies are exceedingly beautiful through October and November; all of them are of reasonable price, and well worth adding to the usual stock of window plants. Fill a few pots with fibrous loam, and sprinkle them over with mignonette,nemophilainsignis, and intermediate stocks; leave the pots in the open air, and thin the plants to about three or four of the strongest, as soon as they can be handled. Pot off china primroses, putting one plant into each three-inch pot. Encourage the chrysanthemums in pots with alternate applications of manure water, repot the strongest, and allow them all plenty of room, or the leaves are liable to injury. Set all plants as they grow out of flower in the sun, to ripen their wood, but do not let them suffer from drought.735.October.—The principal endeavor among this class of plants must now be directed towards getting them into a state of rest; water very cautiously, giving air whenever the weather will permit, and at all times let them enjoy whatever sunshineoccurs, and uninterrupted light. Now that the respiring power of the leaves becomes lessened, it is most essential that every particle of dust be carefully removed; the surface of the soil in which they grow should be occasionally stirred, to keep it clean and porous, and even the outside of the pots should be washed, for the same end. If it be necessary to stand the pots in saucers, when the plants are watered, the waste which runs through should be regularly emptied away, as much mischief ensues from allowing the roots to remain in the water.736.November.—The directions given last month must be closely observed throughout the remainder of the year. The great object being to keep the majority of the plants in a resting condition, that they may start the more vigorously on the return of genial weather. Winter, or early spring-flowering plants, such as violets, China primroses, cyclamen, and roses, are, however, to be excepted from this rule; they are now in an active state, and must be encouraged accordingly. As soon as hyacinths and other bulbs, placed in pots last month, have become pretty well rooted, they may be brought into the window, and being placed near the light, will grow rapidly; those in glasses should have the water changed once or twice a week. Chrysanthemums in pots require plenty of water while in bloom, and when their beauty declines, the plants should be taken to a warm part of the garden, or placed in a light shed, to complete their maturity.737.December.—If the geraniums or other plants taken from the borders in autumn, exhibit signs of rottenness, remove the decaying parts, and dust the wounds with quick-lime or sulphur, keep them comparatively dry and as much exposed to the sun as possible; air is essential whenever it can be admitted. Remember previous directions regarding the employment of pans; they are a most fatal source of disease and death when left with water in them. Water sparingly, keep the leaves clean, and wait patiently. Flowering plants must still form the exception, as mentioned last month.738.To manage a Watch.—First: Wind your watch as nearly as possible at the same hour every day.Secondly: Be careful that your key is in good condition, as there is much danger of injuring the machine when the key is worn or cracked;there are more mainsprings and chains broken through a jerk in winding, than from any other cause, which injury will, sooner or later, be the result, if the key be in bad order.Thirdly: As all metals contract by cold, and expand by heat, it must be manifest, that to keep the watch as nearly as possible at one temperature, is a necessary piece of attention.Fourthly: Keep the watch as constantly as possible in one position—that is, if it hangs by day, let it hang by night against something soft.Fifthly: the hands of a pocket-chronometer or duplex watch, should never be set backwards; in other watches this is a matter of no consequence.Sixthly: The glass should never be opened in watches that set and regulate at the back. One or two other directions more, it is of vital importance that you bear in mind. On regulating a watch, should it be fast, move the regulator a trifle towards the slow, and if going slow, do the reverse; you cannot move the regulator too slightly or too gently at a time, and the only inconvenience that can arise is, that you may have to perform the duty more than once. On the contrary, if you move the regulator too much at a time you will be as far, if not farther than ever, from attaining your object; so that you may repeat the movement until quite tired and disappointed—stoutly blaming both watch and watch-maker, while the fault is entirely your own. Again, you cannot be too careful in respect of the nature and condition of your watch-pocket; see that it be made of some material that is soft and pliant—such as wash-leather, which is the best; and, also, that there be no flue or nap that may be torn off when taking the watch out of the pocket. Cleanliness, too, is as needful here as in the key before winding; for if there be dust or dirt in either instance, it will, you may rely upon it, work its way into the watch, as well as wear away the engine turning of the case.
700.To make Ink.—To four ounces of bruised galls, allow two of copperas and two of gum-arabic; put the galls into a large bottle, with three pints of rain water; and, in three or four days, dissolve the gum in hot water, and add it with the copperas. Shake the bottle frequently for some days. A few cloves may be put into the bottle, to prevent the ink from moulding.
701.Ink Powder.—Take five ounces of the cleanest nutgalls, bruise them, and sift the powder very fine; then add one ounce of white copperas, two ounces of Roman vitriol, gum-arabic, half an ounce; pound and sift them very fine. An ounce of this powder will make a pint of very black ink.
702.To prevent Ink from moulding.—Half-a-dozen cloves, bruised with gum-arabic, are to be put into the bottle. If a very fine ink is wanted, white wine, or vinegar and water, should be used, instead of water alone.
703.To make Indian Ink.—Put six lighted wicks into a dish of oil; hang an iron or tin concave cover over it, so as to receive all the smoke; when there is a sufficient quantity of soot settled to the cover, then take it off gently with a feather upon a sheet of paper, and mix it up with gum-tragacanth to a proper consistence.
N. B. The clearest oil makes the finest soot, consequently the best ink.
704.Indian Ink.—Take horse-beans, burn them till they are perfectly black, grind them to a fine powder, and, with weak gum-arabic water make it into a paste, and form it into long square cakes.
705.To make China Ink.—Take dried black horse-beans, burn them to a powder, mix them up with gum-arabic water, and bring them to a mass; press it well, and let it dry.
706. Canary-birds, that are kept tame, will breed three or four times in the year. Towards the middle of March, begin to match your birds, putting one cock and hen into the breeding-cage, which should be large, so that the birds may have room to fly and exercise themselves. Place two boxes or little basket-nests in the cage, for the hen to lay her eggs in, because she will sometimes have a second brood before the first are fit to fly, leaving the care of them to the father-bird, who feeds and brings them up with much care, while she is sitting on her second nest of eggs. Whilst your birds are pairing, feed them, besides the usual seeds, with the yolks of hard-boiled eggs, bread that has been moistened, or, if hard, grated fine, and pounded almond-meat. When the young birds are to be fed, give the same soft food, and be sure have it fresh every day; also furnish the old birds with fresh greens, such as cabbage-lettuce, chick weed, groundsel, &c. Give fresh water every day, and a clean bath every morning. The hen lays, commonly, four or five eggs, and sits fourteen days. When the young are hatched, leave them to the care of the old birds, to nurse and bring up till they can fly and feed themselves, which is, usually, in about twenty days.
707.Gold and Silver Fish.—Pure rain-water is best to keep these delicate little creatures in; they should never be put into water that has been boiled. It is a good plan to throw them in the morning into a large bowl of fresh water, with a few bread-crumbs in it, and let them remain there an hour. Then put them in pure fresh water in their vases. The water should be changed every day. If the bread remains in the water to become sour, it will kill the fish.
708.Improvement in the management of Bees.—The improvement is that of having double skeps or hives, the one on the top of the other. When the lower skep is filled with honey, it is to be removed after the bees are admitted (through a passage which is made to be opened) into the upper skep; into this skep food must be put, and the bees will remain there, and go on with their work in it. When it is filled with honey, the former skep, with food in it, may be replaced, and the bees again admitted into it. The full skep is then to be taken away. This change of the skeps must always be made about midsummer; and by thus annually removing the full one, more honey will be collected than is usual, and the bees will not be destroyed.
709.To preserve Flowers in Water.—Mix a little carbonate of soda with the water, and it will preserve the flowers for a fortnight. Common saltpetre is also a good preservative.
710.To preserve Flowers in Winter.—Take the latest buds just as they are ready to open; cut them off, leaving the stem about three inches long; cover the end of the stem with melted sealing-wax, and when the buds are a little withered, wrap them separately in paper, and place them in a dry box. When you wish to have the buds blossom, cut off the sealed end, and put them into water in which a little saltpetre has been dissolved. In twelve hours the buds will be open.
711.To take Impressions of Leaves.—Dissolve in a saucerful of water about a tea-spoonful of bichromate of potash. Pass the paper to be used through this solution, and, while wet, press the leaves lightly upon it, and expose it to the sun when it is shining brightly. When perfectly dry, remove the leaves, and afac-similewill be left in a light lemon shade, while the rest of the paper will be of a dark brown.
712.To preserve the natural color in Petals of dried Flowers.—Immerse the petals for some minutes in alcohol. The colors will fade at first, but in a short time they will resume, permanently, their natural tint.
713.To revive faded Flowers.—Nearly all flowers may be revived, when faded, by placing one-third of the stalks in hot water; when it has become cold, the flowers will be re-set and fresh; the end of the stalks should then be cut off and the flowers put into cold water.
Or, dip flowers in spirits of wine for twenty minutes; at first they will appear to have entirely faded; but in drying, the colors will revive, and the fragrance be prolonged.
A few grains of salt put into the water with flowers, will keep them from fading.
Sand may be substituted for water.
Flowers may be preserved throughout the winter, if plucked when they are half-blown, dipped, stalks downward, in equal quantities of water and verjuice mixed, and sprinkled with bay salt. They should be kept in an earthenware vessel, closely covered, and in a warm place; when, in mid-winter, if the flowers be taken out, washed in cold water, and held before a gentle fire, they will open as if in their first bloom.
714.To paint Cloth, Cambric, Sarcenet, &c., so as to render them Transparent.—Grind to a fine powder three pounds of clear white resin, and put it into two pounds of good nut-oil, to which a strong drying quality has been given: set the mixture over a moderate fire, and keep stirring it till all the resin is dissolved; then put in two pounds of the best Venice turpentine, and keep stirring the whole well together; and if the cloth or cambric be thoroughly varnished on both sides with this mixture, it will be quite transparent. In this operation, the surface upon which the varnish is to be applied, must be stretched tight and made fast during the application. This mode of rendering cloth, &c. transparent, is excellently adapted for window-blinds. The varnish will likewise admit of any design in oil-colors being executed upon it as a transparency.
715.Varnish to prevent the rays of the Sun from passing through the glasses of Windows.—Pulverize gum-tragacanth, and put it to dissolve for twenty-four hours in whites of eggs,well beaten. Lay a coat of this on the panes of your windows, with a soft brush, and let it dry.
716.To stain paper or parchment Yellow.—Paper may be stained of a beautiful yellow, by the tincture of turmeric, formed by infusing an ounce or more of the root, powdered, in a pint of spirit of wine. This, by the addition of water, may be made to give any tint of yellow, from the lightest straw to the full color called French yellow, and will be equal in brightness even to the best dyed silks. If yellow is wanted of a warmer or redder cast, anotta, or dragon's blood, must be added to the tincture.
717.To stain paper or parchment Crimson.—A very fine crimson stain may be given to paper, by a tincture of the Indian lake, which may be made by infusing the lake some days in spirit of wine, and then pouring off the tincture from the dregs.
718.To stain paper or parchment Green.—Paper or parchment may be stained green by the solution of verdigris in vinegar, or by the crystals of verdigris dissolved in water; also by the solution of copper in aquafortis, made by adding filings of copper, gradually, to the aquafortis, till no ebullition ensues; or, the spirit of salt may be substituted for the aquafortis.
719. Plants require much light and fresh air; a light garret is an excellent place for them; even those which will not bear the outer air, must have the air of the room frequently freshened by ventilation, to preserve them in health. They should not stand in a draught of air. In frosty weather the windows should be kept close, and at night, the shutters. In sharp frost, instead of stirring out the fire, leave a little on retiring to rest, with a guard before it for security.
As a general rule, never water plants while the sun shines. The time should be in the evening, or early in the morning, unless it be confined to watering the roots, in which case transplanted plants, and others in a growing state, may be watered at any time; and, if they are shaded from the sun, they may also be watered over the tops.
The water, if taken from a well or cold spring, should be exposed one day to the sun, otherwise it will chill the plants. A small quantity only should be applied at a time, that it may have the effect of refreshing rain.
Rain water is the best for plants; next river water; hard spring water is the worst.
720.To air Plants, and ventilate Rooms wherein they are contained.—Plants should have air, every day in the year, to make them grow well; but this matter, in sitting-rooms, will not of course be regulated for their sakes, especially in the colder seasons. Wherever placed, however, some attention should be paid to airing and ventilating the rooms regularly, by opening the windows, and occasionally the doors, in order to excite a free circulation of air. This should be done to a certain extent every day, according to the state of the weather, except in the time of severe frost, when it would not be advisable to admit external air. But at such times, if bad weather be of long continuance, the rooms may be ventilated by means of the doors, and by exciting a current of air in the passages, or other parts of the house.
In very severe frost, or in a continuation of damp weather, moderate fires should be made for the sake of the plants, if placed in rooms not occupied. The window shutters should also be closed at night.
721.Hints to Lovers of Flowers.—A most beautiful and easily-attained show of evergreens may be had by a very simple plan, which has been found to answer remarkably well on a small scale. If geranium branches taken from luxuriant and healthy trees, just before the winter sets in, be cut as for slips, and immersed in soap-water, they will, after drooping for a few days, shed their leaves, put forth fresh ones; and continue in the finest vigor all the winter. By placing a number of bottles thus filled in a flower-basket, with moss to conceal the bottles, a show of evergreens is easily insured for the whole season. They require no fresh water.
722.Bulbous Roots.—The time to put bulbous roots, as the hyacinth, narcissus, and jonquil, into glasses filled with water, is from September to November, and the earliest will begin blooming about Christmas. The glasses should be blue, as thatcolor best suits the roots; put in water enough to cover the bulb one third; let the water be soft, change it once a week, and put in a pinch of salt at each change. Keep the glasses in a moderately warm place, and near to the light.
They should have fresh water about once in ten days. The leaves should not be plucked off before they decay, or the root will be deprived of much of its natural nourishment. When they have decayed, the bulbs should be taken up, laid in the shade to dry, cleaned, and kept in sand in a dry place till wanted to replant. The offsets should be taken off, and planted according to size.
723.Geraniums.—The shrubby kinds are commonly increased by cuttings, which, if planted in June or July, and placed in the shade, will take root in five weeks. They are the most tender, and when placed out of doors, should be defended from strong winds, and be so placed as to enjoy the sun till eleven o'clock in the morning. As the shrubby kinds grow fast, so as to fill the pots with their roots, and push them through the opening at the bottom, they should be moved every two or three weeks in summer, and the fresh roots cut off. They should also be newly potted twice in the summer: once about a month after they are placed abroad, and again towards the end of August. When this is done, all the roots outside the earth should be pared off, and as much of the old earth removed as can be done without injuring the plants. They should then be planted in a larger pot; some fresh earth should first be laid at the bottom, and on that the plant should be placed, so that the old earth adhering to it may be about an inch below the rim of the pot; it should next be filled up, and the pot slightly shaken: the earth must then be gently pressed down at the top, leaving a little space for water to be given without running over the rim; finally, the plant should be liberally watered, and the stem fastened to a stake, to prevent the wind displacing the roots before they are newly fixed.
As the branches grow, and new leaves are formed at the top of them, the lower ones may die, and should be plucked off every week.
Geranium slips should be planted in May, June, or July, taking only the last year's shoots, from which the leaves must be stripped. When planted, give them water, and place them in the shade: when they have taken root, let them have thesun in the morning. The slips chosen for cutting should not be such as bear flowers; and they should be inserted about half their length in the earth.
Geraniums, except the shrubby kinds, require shelter from frost only, and should have free air admitted to them, when the weather is not very severe. In sultry weather, they should all be watered liberally every morning, except some few of a succulent nature, which must be watered sparingly; the latter may be known by plucking a leaf from them. Geraniums may be watered three times a week, when not frosty, in winter.
724.Artificial Mould for Plants.—Russian potash, one drachm; water, four ounces; one tea-spoonful of oil. Mix the whole well together. Seeds put in this mixture will grow for a time at least, as well as if planted in common soil.
725.To take Impressions of Plants.—Take half a sheet of fine paper, and cover the surface with sweet oil; let it stand a minute or two, then rub off the superficial oil, and hang the paper in the air; when almost dry, move the paper slowly over the flame of a candle or lamp, till it is perfectly black; lay on it the plant or leaf, place a piece of clean paper over, and rub it equally with the fingers for half a minute. Then place the plant on the paper or scrap-book where it is desired to have the impression, cover it with blotting paper, and, on repeating the rubbing, a representation of the plant will appear equal to the finest engraving. The same piece of black paper will serve for a number of impressions.
726.Another Process.—Burn a common cork till reduced to powder; mix with it a tea-spoonful of olive oil, making a thick paste. Paint the veiny side of the leaf with a camel-hair brush, and lay it, with the painted side down, on a piece of clean paper. Submit it to a strong and even pressure (it is best placed in a book and put under a weight,) for about fifteen minutes; remove the leaf carefully, and there will be an exact representation left. Very veiny leaves are best. These impressions are almost equal to engravings. Collections of them might be made interesting, by having narratives of rambles written under them, stating the features of the spot from which the leaves were gathered.
727.Through January and February.—The summer flowering-plants—such as geraniums, fuchsias, &c.—should be kept as nearly dormant as possible, allowing just enough water to prevent flagging, and all the light that can be spared from the more interesting division of winter-bloomers; of the latter class, such things as china-roses, cinerarias, hyacinths and other bulbs, will now be in an active state, some of them flowering, and others about to do so; these must be liberally treated with water. Mignonnette, however, must be excepted. Above everything, keep the leaves clean; they are few in number, and feeble in action, but they have yet an important function to perform; and, without they are kept as healthy as possible, the plant cannot begin a new growth with the vigor it is desirable it should possess. The pots should be occasionally scrubbed with clean water, but do not paint or otherwise fill up their pores, for air is as essential to the roots as to the foliage, and no inconsiderable quantity finds its way to them through the sides of a clean pot. With the same view, the surface of the soil should be frequently stirred; the process keeps it open, prevents the growth of moss and weeds, and imparts a better appearance. The water given should always be rather warmer than the atmosphere of the room; and rain-water, slightly heated, is the best.
728.March.—The whole of these plants will be benefited by re-potting. Geraniums and fuchsias delight in light rich earth; calceolarias (lady's slipper), roses, the chimney campanula, and others which grow as freely, should have a larger proportion of loam; whatever manure is added for either, must be thoroughly decayed. The pots should be perfectly clean, inside and out; take care to have each properly drained with pieces of slate or potsherds, in size and number proportionate to the pot; the larger ones require from one to three inches of this drainage. In removing the plants, take off the matted fibres with a knife; loosen the soil moderately, and, when in its place, press the new earth tightly round it; give a gentle watering, and keep them rather warm for a few days; afterwards they should have plenty of air on fine days, and water as they become dry. Station each where it may receive the direct light, and pay particular attention to keeping the leaves clean.
729.April.—On the attention given through this month, most of the success for the season will depend. The plants are now, or ought to be, in a very active growth, which must be encouraged by moderate and regular supplies of water and air. Pinch out the points of the growing shoots of such plants as are required to become bushy; this is commonly called "stopping," and, with such things as geraniums, fuchsias, myrtles, and others of similar habit, is very necessary. Cactuses must have a sunny position, and plenty of water. Mignonette in pots and boxes, will require thinning, so as to leave the plants about three inches apart. The several kinds of China roses form beautiful window ornaments, and occasion but little trouble: at this time they are coming rapidly into bloom. Look for and destroy insects of all sorts, every few days; they multiply so fast, that without constant attention, the plants are soon overrun. The leaves must be kept clear of dust, and the branches properly tied out to sticks, that the centre may receive its due share of light.
730.May.—As the influence of the advancing season and power of the sun begins to be felt, the management of window-plants becomes easier, and must be gradually changed from the careful nursing hitherto necessary, to a course of almost constant exposure that will render the plants robust and hardy.
731.June.—From this time till the middle of September, plants in pots may be placed out of doors; they are, in fact, better in the open air, than in the heated atmosphere of a room. Except in stormy seasons, they may stand out night and day, in some slightly-sheltered spot. As a precaution against the effects of strong sun-light, it is advisable to place the pots in which the plants grow, into others a size or two larger, and fill the space between them with moss; for many plants, having slender fibrous roots, are easily injured by the heat of the sun scorching them through the pot. Such as stand upon the ground, should have a thick layer of ashes spread for them, to prevent worms from creeping in. Wash their leaves frequently with clean water, and remove insects. When any portion of the collection is kept in-doors, a window facing the north or west is to be preferred, and plenty of air must be admitted. As soon as geraniums have done flowering, they should be cut down, re-potted, and the tops struck, to form plants for nextyear. This is a good time to propagate nearly all kinds of pot-plants; most of them strike with freedom on a warm border in sandy soil, covered with a glass, and kept moderately watered. Myrtles, and some other hard-wooded plants, may be struck by placing the cuttings, for about half their length, into a phial filled with water. Seeds must be sown in light earth, as soon as they are thoroughly ripe.
732.July.—Fuchsias, in a growing state, should receive a final potting: place them in large, perfectly clean pots, using a mixture of turfy loam and peat, or leaf mould; train the shoots, and water liberally. Geraniums that have done flowering, should also be re-potted; they require a lighter soil, such as one part turfy loam, two parts leaf mould, and the remainder sand: cut down the tops to within two or three joints of their base, and set the plants in a warm sheltered place, to induce them to grow again: the cuttings may be struck in a frame or hand-glass, and will form nice plants by next season. Cactuses should be kept in a sunny situation, and have plenty of water. Camellias which have made their season's growth, may be set out of doors, to ripen. China roses may be re-potted, if requisite, and are easily propagated now, in the same manner as geraniums. Separate and pot violets, for early spring-flowering; keep them and similar plants, as the cyclamen, &c., in the most shaded place out of doors. The whole tribe of lilies are handsome window-plants, and some of the dwarf Japan kinds peculiarly adapted for the purpose; they are just beginning to bloom, and should have plenty of air and water. The Chinese primrose may be sown in pots of light rich earth, and, if covered with a piece of glass, will vegetate quickly, and form nice plants by the autumn. Propagation of such plants as myrtles, sweet-scented verbena, or lemon plant, chimney campanulas, &c., is now easy, and should be attended to without loss of time. Water all the plants with regularity, and in quantities proportionate to their size and the state of the weather; but particularly keep the leaves clean, by frequent sprinklings of clean water and sponging. The essential points in the culture of every plant, is to allow the functions of both roots and leaves to be carried on in a proper manner—the first, by placing them in suitable soil, and the latter, by clearing them of all impurities.
733.August.—Needs only a continuance of the attention recommended last month. Let them have plenty of air, light, and water, with a slight protection from the mid-day sun; propagation may still be carried on successfully. Pot the bella-donna and Guernsey lilies, to flower in autumn; and the young plants of the Chinese primrose should be placed three or four together, in pots of light rich earth, and nursed, to forward their growth as far as possible.
734.September.—The geraniums cut down in July, will now be pushing forth a number of young shoots; these must be encouraged as much as possible, by keeping the plants in a sheltered place, and duly supplying them with moisture. When the shoots have grown two or three joints, they should be stopped by picking out the points, in order to render them bushy. The cuttings made at the same period will now be fit for potting; put each one separately into a small pot, and treat them as the older plants. Young plants of myrtles, and indeed all others that are properly rooted, should receive similar treatment. Cinerarias are among the most useful of spring-flowering plants, and if a few seedlings can be obtained now, they will make nice plants, with the treatment recommended for geraniums. Cyclamen, Guernsey, or Bella-donna lilies, and Lachenalias should be re-potted; the first and last are very handsome spring-flowering plants, and the lilies are exceedingly beautiful through October and November; all of them are of reasonable price, and well worth adding to the usual stock of window plants. Fill a few pots with fibrous loam, and sprinkle them over with mignonette,nemophilainsignis, and intermediate stocks; leave the pots in the open air, and thin the plants to about three or four of the strongest, as soon as they can be handled. Pot off china primroses, putting one plant into each three-inch pot. Encourage the chrysanthemums in pots with alternate applications of manure water, repot the strongest, and allow them all plenty of room, or the leaves are liable to injury. Set all plants as they grow out of flower in the sun, to ripen their wood, but do not let them suffer from drought.
735.October.—The principal endeavor among this class of plants must now be directed towards getting them into a state of rest; water very cautiously, giving air whenever the weather will permit, and at all times let them enjoy whatever sunshineoccurs, and uninterrupted light. Now that the respiring power of the leaves becomes lessened, it is most essential that every particle of dust be carefully removed; the surface of the soil in which they grow should be occasionally stirred, to keep it clean and porous, and even the outside of the pots should be washed, for the same end. If it be necessary to stand the pots in saucers, when the plants are watered, the waste which runs through should be regularly emptied away, as much mischief ensues from allowing the roots to remain in the water.
736.November.—The directions given last month must be closely observed throughout the remainder of the year. The great object being to keep the majority of the plants in a resting condition, that they may start the more vigorously on the return of genial weather. Winter, or early spring-flowering plants, such as violets, China primroses, cyclamen, and roses, are, however, to be excepted from this rule; they are now in an active state, and must be encouraged accordingly. As soon as hyacinths and other bulbs, placed in pots last month, have become pretty well rooted, they may be brought into the window, and being placed near the light, will grow rapidly; those in glasses should have the water changed once or twice a week. Chrysanthemums in pots require plenty of water while in bloom, and when their beauty declines, the plants should be taken to a warm part of the garden, or placed in a light shed, to complete their maturity.
737.December.—If the geraniums or other plants taken from the borders in autumn, exhibit signs of rottenness, remove the decaying parts, and dust the wounds with quick-lime or sulphur, keep them comparatively dry and as much exposed to the sun as possible; air is essential whenever it can be admitted. Remember previous directions regarding the employment of pans; they are a most fatal source of disease and death when left with water in them. Water sparingly, keep the leaves clean, and wait patiently. Flowering plants must still form the exception, as mentioned last month.
738.To manage a Watch.—First: Wind your watch as nearly as possible at the same hour every day.Secondly: Be careful that your key is in good condition, as there is much danger of injuring the machine when the key is worn or cracked;there are more mainsprings and chains broken through a jerk in winding, than from any other cause, which injury will, sooner or later, be the result, if the key be in bad order.Thirdly: As all metals contract by cold, and expand by heat, it must be manifest, that to keep the watch as nearly as possible at one temperature, is a necessary piece of attention.Fourthly: Keep the watch as constantly as possible in one position—that is, if it hangs by day, let it hang by night against something soft.Fifthly: the hands of a pocket-chronometer or duplex watch, should never be set backwards; in other watches this is a matter of no consequence.Sixthly: The glass should never be opened in watches that set and regulate at the back. One or two other directions more, it is of vital importance that you bear in mind. On regulating a watch, should it be fast, move the regulator a trifle towards the slow, and if going slow, do the reverse; you cannot move the regulator too slightly or too gently at a time, and the only inconvenience that can arise is, that you may have to perform the duty more than once. On the contrary, if you move the regulator too much at a time you will be as far, if not farther than ever, from attaining your object; so that you may repeat the movement until quite tired and disappointed—stoutly blaming both watch and watch-maker, while the fault is entirely your own. Again, you cannot be too careful in respect of the nature and condition of your watch-pocket; see that it be made of some material that is soft and pliant—such as wash-leather, which is the best; and, also, that there be no flue or nap that may be torn off when taking the watch out of the pocket. Cleanliness, too, is as needful here as in the key before winding; for if there be dust or dirt in either instance, it will, you may rely upon it, work its way into the watch, as well as wear away the engine turning of the case.
PART IV.DOMESTIC ECONOMY, AND OTHER MATTERS WORTH KNOWING.Of the different kinds of Tea, Coffee, &c.—Preserving Fruits, Flowers, &c.—Care of Fires—and other Hints.TEAS.739.—The names of the different kinds of tea, relate to the time of their being gathered, or to some peculiarity in their manufacture. It is a general rule, that all tea is fine in proportion to the tenderness and immaturity of the leaves. The quality and value of the different kinds diminish as they are gathered later in the season.Black Teas.—As soon as the leaf-bud begins to expand, it is gathered to makePekoe. A few days' later growth produces black-leaved Pekoe. The next picking is calledSouchong; as the leaves grow larger and more mature, they formCongou; and the last picking isBohea.Boheais called by the Chinese,Ta-cha(large tea), on account of the maturity and size of the leaves; it contains a larger proportion of woody fibre than other teas, and its infusion is of a darker color and coarser flavor.Congou, the next higher kind, is named from a corruption of the ChineseKoong-foa(great care, or assiduity). This forms the bulk of the black tea imported, and is mostly valued for its strength.Souchong—Seaou-choong(small, scarce sort), is the finest of the stronger black tea, with a leaf that is generally entire and curly. It is much esteemed for its fragrance and fine flavor.Pekoeis a corruption of the Canton name,Pak-ho(whitedown), being the first sprouts of the leaf-buds; they are covered with a white silky down. It is a delicate tea, rather deficient in strength, and is principally used for flavoring other teas.740.Green Teas.—The following are the principal kinds:Twankay,Hyson-Skin,Hyson,Gunpowder, andYoung Hyson.Young Hysonis a delicate young leaf, called in the original language,Yu-tsien(before the rains), because gathered in the early spring.Hyson, from the Chinese wordHe-tchune, which means, flourishing spring. This fine tea is gathered early in the season, and prepared with great care and labor. Each leaf is picked separately, and nipped off above the footstalk, and every separate leaf is rolled in the hand. It is much esteemed for its flavor.Gunpowder Teais only Hyson rolled and rounded, to give it thegranularappearance whence it derives its name. The Chinese call itChoo-cha(pearl tea).Hyson-Skinis so named from the Chinese term, in which connectionskinmeans the refuse, or inferior portion. In preparing Hyson, all leaves that are of a coarse yellow, or imperfectly twisted appearance, are separated, and sold asskin-tea, at an inferior price.Twankayis the last picking of green tea, and the leaf is not rolled or twisted as much as the dearer descriptions. There is altogether less trouble bestowed on the preparation.COFFEE.741.—The infusion or decoction of the roasted seeds of the coffee-berry, when not too strong, is a wholesome, exhilarating, and strengthening beverage; and, when mixed with a large proportion of milk, is a proper article of diet for literary and sedentary people. It is especially suited to persons advanced in years. People who are bilious and liable to costiveness, should abstain from it. When drank very strong, it proves stimulating and heating in a considerable degree, creating thirst and producing watchfulness. By an abusive indulgence in this drink, the organs of digestion are impaired, the appetite is destroyed, nutrition is impeded, and emaciation, general debility, paralytic affections, and nervous fever, are brought on.742.Proper method of making Toast and Water, and the advantages resulting therefrom.—Take a slice of fine and stale loaf-bread, cut very thin—as thin as toast is ever cut—and let it be carefully toasted on both sides, until it becompletely browned all over, but nowise blackened or burned in any way. Put this into a common deep stone or china jug, and pour over it, from the tea-kettle, as much clean boiling water as you wish to make into drink. Much depends on the water being actually in a boiling state. Cover the jug with a saucer or plate, and let the drink cool until it be quite cold; it is then fit to be used. The fresher it is made the better, and of course the more agreeable. The above will be found a pleasant, light, and highly-diuretic drink. It is peculiarly grateful to the stomach, and excellent for carrying off the effects of any excess in drinking. It is also a most excellent drink at meals, and may be used in the summer-time, if more agreeable to the drinker.743.Baked Milk.—Put half a gallon of milk into a jar, and tie it down with writing-paper. Let it stand in a moderately warm oven about eight or ten hours. It will then be of the consistence of cream. It is used by persons who are weak or consumptive.744.Substitute for Cream, in Tea or Coffee.—Beat the white of an egg to a froth, put to it a very small lump of butter, and mix well. Then turn the coffee to it gradually, so that it may not curdle. If perfectly done, it will be an excellent substitute for cream. For tea, omit the butter, using only the egg. This might be of great use at sea, as eggs can be preserved fresh in various ways.745.Economical use of Nutmegs.—If a person begin to grate a nutmeg at thestalkend, it will prove hollow throughout; whereas thesamenutmeg, grated from theotherend, would have proved sound and solid to the last. This circumstance may thus be accounted for:—The centre of a nutmeg consists of a number of fibres issuing from the stalk, and its continuation through the centre of the fruit; the other ends of which fibres, though closely surrounded and pressed by the fruit, do not adhere to it. When the stalk is grated away, those fibres, having lost their hold, gradually drop out, and the nutmeg appears hollow: as more of the stalk is grated away, others drop outin succession, and the hollow continues through the whole nut. By beginning at the contrary end, the fibres above-mentioned are grated off at their core end, with the surrounding fruit, and do not drop out and cause a hole.746.To ascertain the quality of Nutmegs.—Oil of nutmegs being of great value, it is often extracted from the nuts which are exposed to sale, and which are thereby rendered of very little value. To ascertain the quality of nutmegs, force a pin into them; and if good, however dry they may appear, the oil will be seen oozing out all round the pin.747.Essence of Nutmeg.—Is made by dissolving one ounce of the essential oil in a pint of rectified spirits. It is an expensive but invaluable mode of flavoring, in the arts of the cook or confectioner.748.To make Essence of Celery.—Soak for a fortnight half an ounce of the seeds of celery in one gill of brandy. A few drops will flavor a pint of soup or broth equal to a head of celery.749.Tincture of Lemon-peel.—Fill a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of brandy; when a lemon is used, pare off the rind very thin, and put it into the brandy. In two weeks the spirit will be strongly impregnated with the flavor of the lemon.750.To test the purity of Spirits.—See if the liquor will burn away entirely: or, place a hollow ivory-ball in it; the deeper the ball sinks, the lighter the liquor, and consequently more spirituous.751.To purify Olive Oil.—Turn the oil into a crock or bottle, and pour in a quantity of pure water; shake the vessel vigorously, and let it stand two hours. The mucilaginous matter which is the cause of rancidity, will be separated from the oil, and remain in the water. The oil can be decanted, and re-bottled for use.752.To preserve Eggs.—The most simple and easy mode of preserving eggs, is to rub the outside of the shell, as soon as gathered from the nest, with a little butter, or any other greasethat is not fetid. By filling up the pores of the shell, the evaporation of the liquid part of the egg is prevented; and either by that means, or by excluding the external air, which Fourcroy supposes destroys the milkiness which most people are fond of in new-laid eggs, that milkiness will be preserved for mouths, as perfect as when the egg was taken from the nest.753.Cream preserved in Long Voyages.—Mix with a quantity of fresh rich cream half its weight of white sugar in powder; stir the whole well together, and preserve it in bottles well corked. In this state it is ready to mix with tea or coffee, and has continued in good condition during a voyage to America.754.To preserve Hazel Nuts in great perfection for many months.—Hazel nuts may be kept a long time in full kernel by burying them in earthen pots, well closed, a foot or two in the ground. They keep best in gravelly or sandy places.755.Easy Method of preserving Animal Food.—Fresh meat may be kept for nine or ten days perfectly sweet and good, in the heat of summer, by lightly covering the same with bran, and hanging it in a high and windy room; a cupboard full of small holes, or a wire safe, is recommended to be placed in such a room, to keep away the flies.756.To purify Lemon-juice.—Add one ounce of pulverized, well burnt charcoal, to a quart of lemon-juice; after standing twelve hours, filter the juice through white blotting-paper; it will keep good several years in a cellar, in a bottle, well corked; a thick crust will form beneath the cork, and the mucilage will fall to the bottom.757.To detect Copper in Liquids.—Spirit of hartshorn mixed with them, turns them blue. Therefore tea is not dried on copper, as an infusion of it is not turned blue by this mixture. Cider, being passed through brass pots, is detected by this experiment.—Dr. Moyes' Lectures.758.To detect the Mixture of Arsenic.—A solution of blue vitriol dropped into any liquid in which arsenic has been put, will turn it green.759.To test Mushrooms.—Rub the upper skin with a gold ring or any piece of gold: the part rubbed will turn yellow if it is apoisonous fungus.760.To prepare Salt.—Set a lump of salt in a plate before the fire, and when dry, pound it in a mortar, or rub two pieces of salt together; it will then be free from lumps, and in very fine powder.761.To make Cheap and Good Vinegar.—To eight gallons of clear rain water, add three quarts of molasses; turn the mixture into a clean tight cask, shake it well two or three times, and add three spoonsful of good yeast, or two yeast cakes. Place the cask in a warm place, and in ten or fifteen days, add a sheet of common wrapping-paper, smeared with molasses, and torn into narrow strips, and you will have good vinegar. The paper is necessary to form the "mother," or life of the liquor.762.To prevent Mouldiness.—The best preventive is any of the essential oils, as the oil of lavender, cloves, peppermint, &c. Russia leather, which is scented with the tar of the birch-tree, is not subject to mouldiness, and books bound in it will even prevent mouldiness in other books bound in calf, near which they happen to lie.Aromatic seeds are not subject to mould, and gingerbread, or cakes containing caraway seeds are far less liable to mouldiness than plain bread. Children have been poisoned by eating mouldy bread.763.To keep Fruits.—To preserve fruits, you must keep them in a room rather above the ground floor, sheltered alike from the sun and damp; it is even prudent, in order to avoid opening the windows, to let out the humid exhalations of the fruit, to have a stove in the room, and light a fire in it now and then. The decaying fruit should be carefully removed. Cherries, grapes, &c., are kept sound by hanging them to threads, and then inclosing them in new boxes or barrels; these are closed as tightly as possible, and deposited in a dry place. Some preserve them by laying them in sawdust or bran.764.To preserve Apples.—Dry a glazed jar perfectly well, put a few pebbles in the bottom; fill the jar with apples, andcover it with a bit of wood made to fit exactly; and over that, put a little fresh mortar. The pebbles attract the damp of the apples. The mortar draws the air from the jar, and leaves the apples free from its pressure, which, together with the principle of putrefaction which the air contains, are the causes of decay. Apples, kept thus, have been found quite sound, fair, and juicy, in July.765.To keep Potatoes from frost.—If you have not a convenient store-place for them, dig a trench three or four feet deep, into which they are to be laid as they are taken up, and then covered with the earth taken out of the trench, raised up in the middle like the roof of a house, and covered with straw, to carry off the rain. They will be thus preserved from the frost, and can be taken up as they are wanted.766.To dry Corn for winter use.—Sweet corn is the best. Husk it. Have a pot of boiling water—put in your corn and let it boil three minutes—then cut it from the cobs and put it in pans in a warm oven. It must be stirred frequently; when perfectly dry put it away in bags. When wanted for use, soak it all night, next day boil it an hour with a little salt; before it is dished stir in flour, pepper, and butter.767.To preserve Aromatic and other Herbs.—The boxes and drawers in which vegetable matters are kept should not impart to them any smell or taste; and more certainly to avoid this, they should be lined with paper. Such as are volatile, of a delicate texture, or subject to suffer from insects, must be kept in well covered glasses. Fruits and oily seeds, which are apt to become rancid, must be kept in a cool and dry, but by no means in a warm or moist place.768.To dry Herbs.—Dry the gathered crop, thinly spread out, and shaded from the sun; tie the herbs in small bundles, and keep them compactly pressed down and covered with white paper. Or, after drying them, put each sort into a small box, and by means of boards, of the size of the interior length and width of the box, and a screw-press, press the herbs into cakes, or little trusses. These should be afterwards carefully wrapped up in paper, and be kept in a dry place, when they will retain their aroma as perfectly as when they were put into the press,for, at least, three years. By the common mode of hanging up herbs in loose bundles, the odor soon escapes.769.To dry Chamomile Flowers.—Pull them, from time to time, as they are produced; for the plants continue to blossom in succession for several months. When gathered, dry them gradually, partly in the sun, and partly in the shade, by being spread upon a mat or sheet, removed out of the sun in the heat of the day, and placed in it mornings and evenings.Lavender Flowersshould also be dried as chamomiles.Marigold Flowers, dried, improve broths and soups, however much they may have got into disuse.770.Winter Herbs.—The best time for gathering herbs for winter use is when they are in blossom. If left till they are in seed, the strength goes to the seed. They are best picked from the stocks, dried quickly (but not burnt), before the fire, and rubbed into powder, then bottled.771.Galvanism a Protector of Trees.—A German journal states that the application of galvanism has been made in Austria for preserving trees and plants from the ravages of insects. The process is very simple, consisting only in placing two rings, one of copper, the other of zinc, attached together, around the tree or plant. Any insect that touches the copper receives an electric shock, which kills it or causes it to fall to the ground.772.Moss on Trees.—The following is an excellent application to the scraped trunk to prevent the growth of moss, and destroy eggs of insects. One gallon of soft soap, one pound of flour of sulphur, and one quart of salt, to be well stirred together and put on with a hard brush.773.To destroy Caterpillars in Gooseberry Trees.—Gather dust from any turnpike road, and shake it well among the trees, and the caterpillars will immediately fall to the ground. It is an excellent plan to dust the trees twice or three times a week, as it will effectually prevent the lodgment of caterpillars.774.A neat method of Grafting.—Prepare the stock and the graft in the same way as for grafting with clay in the commonway. Then take a long slip of India-rubber, three-quarters of an inch broad, and about the thickness of a shilling. Tie one end of this elastic riband with a thread, well prepared by rubbing with shoemakers' wax, to the stock, a little below where it is cut for being joined to the graft; then make the joint as neatly as possible, and wrap it round with the riband, taking due care to keep the India-rubber fully stretched, and to make it overlap at each turn fully one-half of the breadth of the previous round, till the whole is covered, then tie the top with a thread in the same manner as at the bottom, and the operation is finished. After grafting the trees in the manner described, nothing is done to them till they are completely set, when the India-rubber slips are taken off to be ready again for the next year. When opened up, there is scarcely any appearance of a joint, and altogether they are much neater than when done with clay.775.To Kill Vermin on Plants.—Tobacco water is much used for the above purposes; it is made by pouring a gallon of boiling water upon a pound of tobacco leaves, and straining it in twenty minutes.Or, syringe the plants with this mixture: put into a jar five gallons of spring water and four ounces of chloride of lime, to which add four ounces of vitriol; when the lime is precipitated, pour off the clear solution, and keep it air-tight.Or, mix coal tar and water, and sprinkle it over the infected plants.776.To Propagate Plants.—It may be received as a general principle, that all plants which produce shoots may be propagated by cuttings; though some plants are much more difficult to propagate in this manner than others. Generally speaking, all the soft-wooded plants which have abundance of sap, such as geraniums, fuchsias, petunias, and verbenas, strike root readily. The usual mode for striking cuttings is to put them in fine sand, and to cover them with a bell-glass. Some cuttings which are difficult to strike are directed to have bottom heat; that is, the pots in which they are planted should be plunged into a hot-bed, that the stimulus afforded by the heat may induce the cuttings to throw out roots.777.Plants watered by being placed in Dishes, improper.—The practice of placing flats or saucers under plants, and feeding them by the roots, that is, pouring the water continually into these dishes, and never on the earth at top, is highly improper. The water should always be poured on the surface of the earth, that it may filter completely through it, to the benefit and refreshment of the fibres.778.When to plant Annual and Perennial Flowers.—Many kinds of annuals and perennials, sown in March and the beginning of April, will be fit for transplanting about the end of May, and may either be planted in patches about borders, or in beds, as fancy shall direct. Of these, the kinds improved by transplanting are, amaranthuses, China asters, columbines, French and African marigolds, fox-gloves, hollyhocks, India pinks, love-lies-bleeding, mallows, mignonette, prince's feather, scabious, stocks, sun-flowers, sweet-williams, wall-flowers, and others. They should be planted out in a showery time, if possible, or otherwise be frequently watered, till they have struck root.779.To preserve Flower Seeds.—Those who are curious about saving flower-seeds must attend to them in the month of August. Many kinds will begin to ripen apace, and should be carefully sticked and supported, to prevent them from being shaken by high winds, and so partly lost. Others should be defended from much wet; such as asters, marigolds, and generally those of the class Syngenesia; as from the construction of their flowers they are apt to rot, and the seeds to mould, in bad seasons. Whenever they are thought ripe, or indeed any others, in wet weather, they should be removed to an airy shed or loft, gradually dried, and rubbed or beat out at conveniency.780.Easy Method of discovering whether or not Seeds are sufficiently ripe.—Seeds, when not sufficiently ripe, will swim, but when arrived at full maturity, they will be found uniformly to fall to the bottom; a fact that is said to hold equally true of all seeds, from the cocoa-nut to the orchis.HINTS TO FARMERS.781. There are some things that all farmers ought to know.Sheep put into fresh stubble are apt to be killed by eating too much grain.A bare pasture enriches not the soil, nor fattens the animals, nor increases the wealth of the owner.One animal well fed is of more value than two poorly kept.The better animals can be fed, and the more comfortable they can be kept, the more profitable they are—and all farmers work for profit.Ground once well plowed is better than thrice poorly.Bountiful crops are more profitable than poor ones. Make the soil rich, pulverize it well, and keep it clean, and it generally will be productive.Weeds that grow unmolested around the fences, stumps, and stones, scatter their seeds over the farm, and are very likely to increase.Cows well fed in winter give more milk in summer. An ox that is in good condition in the spring, will perform more labor, and stand the heat of summer much better than one that is poor.When you see the fence down, put it up: if it remains until to-morrow, the cattle may get over.What ought to be done to-day, do it; for to-morrow it may rain.A strong horse will work all day without food, but keep him at it, and he will not last long.A rich soil will produce good crops without manure, but keep it at it, and it will tire.Farmers' sons had better learn to hold the plow, and feed the pigs, than measure tape and count buttons.Young ladies who have the good fortune to become farmers' wives will find it more profitable to know how to make Johnny-cake, butter, and cheese, than to play on the piano.All who wish to be rich, must spend less than they earn.MANAGEMENT OF A HORSE.782. When a horse is brought in hot, loosen the girth, and allow the saddle to remain on for five minutes. Let him bewalked about in summer, and, in the winter, be put directly in the stable.A horse should not be permitted to drink cold water, whilst warm; neither should the legs or feet of a horse be washed, until he gets cold.Horses prefer soft water, and it is best for them. If the water be very hard and brackish, put a small piece of chalk into a pail of water, some time before it is given to the horse.Fourteen pounds of hay in one day, or one hundred pounds a week, with three feeds of corn a day, are sufficient for a horse that is not over-worked.In travelling, after the principal feed, let a horse have not less than two hours' rest, that his food may have time to digest.After a hard day's work, give a horse about two gallons of gruel, made with a quart of oatmeal, half a gallon of ale, half a quartern of brandy, and the proper quantity of water. Wetted bran may be given advantageously to lean horses.783.To dress a Horse.—On entering the stable, first give him about a gallon of clean water in a clean pail; then shake up the best litter under the manger, sweep out the stall, and clean out the stable.Whilst the horse is feeding,dresshim: first, curry him all over with the currycomb, to loosen the dirt and dust on his skin; then remove the dust with a whalebone brush; next, smooth and cleanse the coat with a wisp of straw; and again use the brush and currycomb, to take off what dust may remain; after which, whisk him again with a damp lock of hay; and, finally, rub him down with a woollen or linen cloth.Then turn round the horse in the stall, brush his head well, and wisp it clean and smooth with a damp lock of hay. Then wipe the dust and filth from the inside of the ears with a damp sponge, and draw the ears through the hands for a few minutes, until they are warm. Wash out the sponge, and with it cleanse the dust, &c., from the eyes; sponge the nostrils, and then rub the whole head with a cloth, in the same manner as the body.Next, turn the horse round into his proper situation, put on the head-stall, and with a sponge wash the dirt and filth from under the tail. Then, clean and lay the mane with a comb and water-brush, used alternately with both hands; again wipe over the head and body, put on the body-clothes, and fasten them with a surcingle.Examine the heels, pick out the dirt from the feet, and wash the heels with a brush and plenty of water. If the horse has bad feet, they should be dressed and stuffed.Lastly, shake hay into the rack; and then the horse will be completely dressed.784.Horse Flies.—To prevent horses being teased with flies, take two or three small handfuls of walnut leaves, upon which pour two or three quarts of soft cold water; let it infuse one night; pour the whole next morning into a kettle, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour: when cold, it will be ready for use. Nothing more is required than to moisten a sponge with the liquid, and, before the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts which are most irritable be smeared over with the liquor, namely, between and upon the ears, the flank, &c.785.To milk Cows.—A cow should be milkedclean. Not a drop, if it can be avoided, should be left in the udder. It has been proved that the half-pint that comes outlast, hastwelve times, I think it is, as much butter in it, as the half-pint that comes outfirst. The udder would seem to be a sort of milk-pan, in which the cream is uppermost, and, of course, comes out last, seeing that the outlet is at the bottom. But, besides this, if you do not milk clean, the cow will give less and less milk, and will become dry much sooner than she ought.—Cobbett.RAISING POULTRY.786. There is scarcely any branch of farming operations more productive than the raising of poultry for market; and yet, with a large majority of our agriculturists, it is considered of but little account. The proximity to a great market, and the facilities for reaching it possessed by many of our farmers in this country, should make the rearing of poultry an object of attention.787.To fatten Poultry.—Poultry should be fattened in coops, and kept very clean. They should be furnished with gravel, but with no water. Their only food, barley-meal, mixed so thin with water, as to serve them for drink. Their thirst makes them eat more than they would, in order to extract the waterthat is among the food. This should not be put in troughs but laid upon a board, which should be clean washed every time fresh food is put upon it. It is foul and heated water which is the sole cause of the pip.788.Method of expeditiously fattening Chickens.—Take, for that purpose, a quantity of rice, and grind or pound it into a fine flour; mix sufficient for present use with milk and a little coarse sugar; stir the whole well over the fire, till it makes a thick paste; and feed the chickens, in the day-time only, by putting as much of it as they can eat, but no more, into the troughs belonging to their coops. It must be eaten while warm; and, if they have also beer to drink, they will soon grow very fat. A mixture of oatmeal and treacle, combined till it crumbles, is said to form a food for chickens, of which they are so fond, and with which they thrive so rapidly, that at the end of two months they become as large as the generality of full-grown fowls fed in the common way.789.Method of fattening Geese and Ducks.—Geese, the more quiet and undisturbed they are kept, the faster and better they fatten. Put young geese into a place that is almost dark; feed them with ground malt mixed with milk, and they will very soon, and at very little expense, be fit to kill.Another way is cheaper still:—Mix barley-meal, pretty thick, with water, which they must constantly have by them, to eat as they choose; in another part of the shed where they are, keep a pan with some boiled oats and water, for them to resort to when they are inclined to change their food. This variety is agreeable to them, and they thrive apace, being so fattened at less expense than in any other manner.790.Cobbett's method of fattening Geese.—Geese are raised bygrazing: but, to fat them, something more is required. Corn of some sort, or boiled Swedish turnips, or carrots, or white cabbages, or lettuces, make the best fatting. The modes that are resorted to by the French for fatting geese, are, I hope, such as Englishmen will never think of. He who can deliberately inflicttortureupon an animal, in order to heighten the pleasure his palate is to receive in eating it, is an abuser of the authority which God has given him, and is, indeed, a tyrant in his heart. Who would think himself safe, if at themercyof such a man?791.Swedish method of raising Turkeys.—As soon as the young turkeys leave the shell, they are made to swallow one or two pepper-corns, and returned to their mother. They are afterwards fed with crumbs of bread and milk, and with common dock-leaves, chopped small, and mixed with fresh buttermilk, and kept in a warm place or sunshine, and guarded from the rain or from running among nettles.Nothing, however, is more useful for them than the common garden pepper-cress, or cut-leaved cress. They are very fond of it; and, supplied with as much of it as they will eat, they will not be delicate in their other food.792.To fatten Turkeys as they do in Norfolk.—The quality and size of the Norfolk turkeys are superior to those of any other part of England. They are fed almost entirely with buckwheat; and give them with it boiled oats, boiled malt, or boiled barley, and sometimes, for change, even boiled wheat and water.793.To fatten Ducks.—Feed them with the same food as the turkeys or geese, and let them have a pan of water to dabble in.794.To make Hens lay perpetually.—Hens will lay perpetually, if treated in the following manner:—Keep no roosters (cocks): give the hens fresh meat, chopped up like sausage-meat, once a day; a very small portion, say half an ounce a day to each hen, during the winter, or from the time insects disappear in the fall till they appear again in the spring. Never allow any eggs to remain in the nest for what are called "nest eggs." When the roosters do not run with the hens, and no nest eggs are left in the nest, the hens will not cease laying after the production of twelve or fifteen eggs, as they always do when roosters and nest eggs are allowed; but continue laying perpetually. The only reason why hens do not lay in winter as freely as in summer, is the want of animal food, which they get in summer in abundance, in the form of insects.HINTS FOR THE PRESERVATION OF HUMAN LIFE FROM FIRE.795.Cautions.—Sweep chimneys regularly; sweep frequently the lower part of the chimney within reach; the kitchen chimney should be swept once a month.796.Fires in Chimneys.—When a chimney or flue is on fire, throw into the fire-place handfuls of flour of sulphur, which will destroy the flame. Or, apply a wet blanket, or old carpet, to the throat of the chimney, or over the front of the fire-place. A chimney-board, or register-flap, will answer the same purpose, by stopping the draught of air from below.Beware of lights near combustibles; of children near fires and lights; and do not trust them with candles. Do not leave clothes to dry by the fire unwatched, either day or night; do not leave the poker in the fire; see that all be safe before you retire to rest.797.Persons in Danger.—Whena firehappens, put it out in its earliest stage; if suffered to extend itself, give the alarm. Beware of opening doors, &c., to increase the fire by fresh air. Muster the whole family, see that none are missing. First save lives, then property. Think of the ways of escape; by the stairs, if no better way—creep along a room where the fire is, and creep down stairs backwards on hands and knees—(heated air ascends); come down stairs with a pillow before your face, and a wet blanket round the body, and hold your breath; or try the roof of the adjoining house. Throw out of the window a feather bed, to leap upon in the last extremity—fasten fire-escapes to the bed-posts first—send children down by the sack fastened to a rope, taking care of the iron spikes and area; then lower yourselves.798.Means of Extinction.—The safety of the inmates being ascertained, the first object at a fire should be the exclusion of all fresh and the confinement of all burnt air—suffocatethe flames—and remember that burnt air is as great, if not a greater enemy to fire than water. For both purposes, of excluding the one air, and confining the other, all openings should be kept as carefully closed as possible. The prevailing practice ofbreaking windowsis peculiarly mischievous. The only excuse for this is the admission of water; but if the firemen were providedwith self supporting ladders, (that need not lean against the wall,) they might direct the water-hose through a single broken pane, with ten times more accuracy than by their random squirting from the street. Water should be made to beat out the fire by its impetus; sprinkling is useless.799.Neighbors and Spectators.—When a fire happens, let everyrespectableneighbor attend. Send instantly for engines, both of the parish and of the insurance companies, and the parish and other ladder and fire-escapes. Look for the nearest fireplug—send instantly for policemen, and see they attend, and are active.
Of the different kinds of Tea, Coffee, &c.—Preserving Fruits, Flowers, &c.—Care of Fires—and other Hints.
739.—The names of the different kinds of tea, relate to the time of their being gathered, or to some peculiarity in their manufacture. It is a general rule, that all tea is fine in proportion to the tenderness and immaturity of the leaves. The quality and value of the different kinds diminish as they are gathered later in the season.
Black Teas.—As soon as the leaf-bud begins to expand, it is gathered to makePekoe. A few days' later growth produces black-leaved Pekoe. The next picking is calledSouchong; as the leaves grow larger and more mature, they formCongou; and the last picking isBohea.
Boheais called by the Chinese,Ta-cha(large tea), on account of the maturity and size of the leaves; it contains a larger proportion of woody fibre than other teas, and its infusion is of a darker color and coarser flavor.
Congou, the next higher kind, is named from a corruption of the ChineseKoong-foa(great care, or assiduity). This forms the bulk of the black tea imported, and is mostly valued for its strength.
Souchong—Seaou-choong(small, scarce sort), is the finest of the stronger black tea, with a leaf that is generally entire and curly. It is much esteemed for its fragrance and fine flavor.
Pekoeis a corruption of the Canton name,Pak-ho(whitedown), being the first sprouts of the leaf-buds; they are covered with a white silky down. It is a delicate tea, rather deficient in strength, and is principally used for flavoring other teas.
740.Green Teas.—The following are the principal kinds:Twankay,Hyson-Skin,Hyson,Gunpowder, andYoung Hyson.
Young Hysonis a delicate young leaf, called in the original language,Yu-tsien(before the rains), because gathered in the early spring.
Hyson, from the Chinese wordHe-tchune, which means, flourishing spring. This fine tea is gathered early in the season, and prepared with great care and labor. Each leaf is picked separately, and nipped off above the footstalk, and every separate leaf is rolled in the hand. It is much esteemed for its flavor.
Gunpowder Teais only Hyson rolled and rounded, to give it thegranularappearance whence it derives its name. The Chinese call itChoo-cha(pearl tea).
Hyson-Skinis so named from the Chinese term, in which connectionskinmeans the refuse, or inferior portion. In preparing Hyson, all leaves that are of a coarse yellow, or imperfectly twisted appearance, are separated, and sold asskin-tea, at an inferior price.
Twankayis the last picking of green tea, and the leaf is not rolled or twisted as much as the dearer descriptions. There is altogether less trouble bestowed on the preparation.
741.—The infusion or decoction of the roasted seeds of the coffee-berry, when not too strong, is a wholesome, exhilarating, and strengthening beverage; and, when mixed with a large proportion of milk, is a proper article of diet for literary and sedentary people. It is especially suited to persons advanced in years. People who are bilious and liable to costiveness, should abstain from it. When drank very strong, it proves stimulating and heating in a considerable degree, creating thirst and producing watchfulness. By an abusive indulgence in this drink, the organs of digestion are impaired, the appetite is destroyed, nutrition is impeded, and emaciation, general debility, paralytic affections, and nervous fever, are brought on.
742.Proper method of making Toast and Water, and the advantages resulting therefrom.—Take a slice of fine and stale loaf-bread, cut very thin—as thin as toast is ever cut—and let it be carefully toasted on both sides, until it becompletely browned all over, but nowise blackened or burned in any way. Put this into a common deep stone or china jug, and pour over it, from the tea-kettle, as much clean boiling water as you wish to make into drink. Much depends on the water being actually in a boiling state. Cover the jug with a saucer or plate, and let the drink cool until it be quite cold; it is then fit to be used. The fresher it is made the better, and of course the more agreeable. The above will be found a pleasant, light, and highly-diuretic drink. It is peculiarly grateful to the stomach, and excellent for carrying off the effects of any excess in drinking. It is also a most excellent drink at meals, and may be used in the summer-time, if more agreeable to the drinker.
743.Baked Milk.—Put half a gallon of milk into a jar, and tie it down with writing-paper. Let it stand in a moderately warm oven about eight or ten hours. It will then be of the consistence of cream. It is used by persons who are weak or consumptive.
744.Substitute for Cream, in Tea or Coffee.—Beat the white of an egg to a froth, put to it a very small lump of butter, and mix well. Then turn the coffee to it gradually, so that it may not curdle. If perfectly done, it will be an excellent substitute for cream. For tea, omit the butter, using only the egg. This might be of great use at sea, as eggs can be preserved fresh in various ways.
745.Economical use of Nutmegs.—If a person begin to grate a nutmeg at thestalkend, it will prove hollow throughout; whereas thesamenutmeg, grated from theotherend, would have proved sound and solid to the last. This circumstance may thus be accounted for:—The centre of a nutmeg consists of a number of fibres issuing from the stalk, and its continuation through the centre of the fruit; the other ends of which fibres, though closely surrounded and pressed by the fruit, do not adhere to it. When the stalk is grated away, those fibres, having lost their hold, gradually drop out, and the nutmeg appears hollow: as more of the stalk is grated away, others drop outin succession, and the hollow continues through the whole nut. By beginning at the contrary end, the fibres above-mentioned are grated off at their core end, with the surrounding fruit, and do not drop out and cause a hole.
746.To ascertain the quality of Nutmegs.—Oil of nutmegs being of great value, it is often extracted from the nuts which are exposed to sale, and which are thereby rendered of very little value. To ascertain the quality of nutmegs, force a pin into them; and if good, however dry they may appear, the oil will be seen oozing out all round the pin.
747.Essence of Nutmeg.—Is made by dissolving one ounce of the essential oil in a pint of rectified spirits. It is an expensive but invaluable mode of flavoring, in the arts of the cook or confectioner.
748.To make Essence of Celery.—Soak for a fortnight half an ounce of the seeds of celery in one gill of brandy. A few drops will flavor a pint of soup or broth equal to a head of celery.
749.Tincture of Lemon-peel.—Fill a wide-mouthed pint bottle half full of brandy; when a lemon is used, pare off the rind very thin, and put it into the brandy. In two weeks the spirit will be strongly impregnated with the flavor of the lemon.
750.To test the purity of Spirits.—See if the liquor will burn away entirely: or, place a hollow ivory-ball in it; the deeper the ball sinks, the lighter the liquor, and consequently more spirituous.
751.To purify Olive Oil.—Turn the oil into a crock or bottle, and pour in a quantity of pure water; shake the vessel vigorously, and let it stand two hours. The mucilaginous matter which is the cause of rancidity, will be separated from the oil, and remain in the water. The oil can be decanted, and re-bottled for use.
752.To preserve Eggs.—The most simple and easy mode of preserving eggs, is to rub the outside of the shell, as soon as gathered from the nest, with a little butter, or any other greasethat is not fetid. By filling up the pores of the shell, the evaporation of the liquid part of the egg is prevented; and either by that means, or by excluding the external air, which Fourcroy supposes destroys the milkiness which most people are fond of in new-laid eggs, that milkiness will be preserved for mouths, as perfect as when the egg was taken from the nest.
753.Cream preserved in Long Voyages.—Mix with a quantity of fresh rich cream half its weight of white sugar in powder; stir the whole well together, and preserve it in bottles well corked. In this state it is ready to mix with tea or coffee, and has continued in good condition during a voyage to America.
754.To preserve Hazel Nuts in great perfection for many months.—Hazel nuts may be kept a long time in full kernel by burying them in earthen pots, well closed, a foot or two in the ground. They keep best in gravelly or sandy places.
755.Easy Method of preserving Animal Food.—Fresh meat may be kept for nine or ten days perfectly sweet and good, in the heat of summer, by lightly covering the same with bran, and hanging it in a high and windy room; a cupboard full of small holes, or a wire safe, is recommended to be placed in such a room, to keep away the flies.
756.To purify Lemon-juice.—Add one ounce of pulverized, well burnt charcoal, to a quart of lemon-juice; after standing twelve hours, filter the juice through white blotting-paper; it will keep good several years in a cellar, in a bottle, well corked; a thick crust will form beneath the cork, and the mucilage will fall to the bottom.
757.To detect Copper in Liquids.—Spirit of hartshorn mixed with them, turns them blue. Therefore tea is not dried on copper, as an infusion of it is not turned blue by this mixture. Cider, being passed through brass pots, is detected by this experiment.—Dr. Moyes' Lectures.
758.To detect the Mixture of Arsenic.—A solution of blue vitriol dropped into any liquid in which arsenic has been put, will turn it green.
759.To test Mushrooms.—Rub the upper skin with a gold ring or any piece of gold: the part rubbed will turn yellow if it is apoisonous fungus.
760.To prepare Salt.—Set a lump of salt in a plate before the fire, and when dry, pound it in a mortar, or rub two pieces of salt together; it will then be free from lumps, and in very fine powder.
761.To make Cheap and Good Vinegar.—To eight gallons of clear rain water, add three quarts of molasses; turn the mixture into a clean tight cask, shake it well two or three times, and add three spoonsful of good yeast, or two yeast cakes. Place the cask in a warm place, and in ten or fifteen days, add a sheet of common wrapping-paper, smeared with molasses, and torn into narrow strips, and you will have good vinegar. The paper is necessary to form the "mother," or life of the liquor.
762.To prevent Mouldiness.—The best preventive is any of the essential oils, as the oil of lavender, cloves, peppermint, &c. Russia leather, which is scented with the tar of the birch-tree, is not subject to mouldiness, and books bound in it will even prevent mouldiness in other books bound in calf, near which they happen to lie.
Aromatic seeds are not subject to mould, and gingerbread, or cakes containing caraway seeds are far less liable to mouldiness than plain bread. Children have been poisoned by eating mouldy bread.
763.To keep Fruits.—To preserve fruits, you must keep them in a room rather above the ground floor, sheltered alike from the sun and damp; it is even prudent, in order to avoid opening the windows, to let out the humid exhalations of the fruit, to have a stove in the room, and light a fire in it now and then. The decaying fruit should be carefully removed. Cherries, grapes, &c., are kept sound by hanging them to threads, and then inclosing them in new boxes or barrels; these are closed as tightly as possible, and deposited in a dry place. Some preserve them by laying them in sawdust or bran.
764.To preserve Apples.—Dry a glazed jar perfectly well, put a few pebbles in the bottom; fill the jar with apples, andcover it with a bit of wood made to fit exactly; and over that, put a little fresh mortar. The pebbles attract the damp of the apples. The mortar draws the air from the jar, and leaves the apples free from its pressure, which, together with the principle of putrefaction which the air contains, are the causes of decay. Apples, kept thus, have been found quite sound, fair, and juicy, in July.
765.To keep Potatoes from frost.—If you have not a convenient store-place for them, dig a trench three or four feet deep, into which they are to be laid as they are taken up, and then covered with the earth taken out of the trench, raised up in the middle like the roof of a house, and covered with straw, to carry off the rain. They will be thus preserved from the frost, and can be taken up as they are wanted.
766.To dry Corn for winter use.—Sweet corn is the best. Husk it. Have a pot of boiling water—put in your corn and let it boil three minutes—then cut it from the cobs and put it in pans in a warm oven. It must be stirred frequently; when perfectly dry put it away in bags. When wanted for use, soak it all night, next day boil it an hour with a little salt; before it is dished stir in flour, pepper, and butter.
767.To preserve Aromatic and other Herbs.—The boxes and drawers in which vegetable matters are kept should not impart to them any smell or taste; and more certainly to avoid this, they should be lined with paper. Such as are volatile, of a delicate texture, or subject to suffer from insects, must be kept in well covered glasses. Fruits and oily seeds, which are apt to become rancid, must be kept in a cool and dry, but by no means in a warm or moist place.
768.To dry Herbs.—Dry the gathered crop, thinly spread out, and shaded from the sun; tie the herbs in small bundles, and keep them compactly pressed down and covered with white paper. Or, after drying them, put each sort into a small box, and by means of boards, of the size of the interior length and width of the box, and a screw-press, press the herbs into cakes, or little trusses. These should be afterwards carefully wrapped up in paper, and be kept in a dry place, when they will retain their aroma as perfectly as when they were put into the press,for, at least, three years. By the common mode of hanging up herbs in loose bundles, the odor soon escapes.
769.To dry Chamomile Flowers.—Pull them, from time to time, as they are produced; for the plants continue to blossom in succession for several months. When gathered, dry them gradually, partly in the sun, and partly in the shade, by being spread upon a mat or sheet, removed out of the sun in the heat of the day, and placed in it mornings and evenings.
Lavender Flowersshould also be dried as chamomiles.
Marigold Flowers, dried, improve broths and soups, however much they may have got into disuse.
770.Winter Herbs.—The best time for gathering herbs for winter use is when they are in blossom. If left till they are in seed, the strength goes to the seed. They are best picked from the stocks, dried quickly (but not burnt), before the fire, and rubbed into powder, then bottled.
771.Galvanism a Protector of Trees.—A German journal states that the application of galvanism has been made in Austria for preserving trees and plants from the ravages of insects. The process is very simple, consisting only in placing two rings, one of copper, the other of zinc, attached together, around the tree or plant. Any insect that touches the copper receives an electric shock, which kills it or causes it to fall to the ground.
772.Moss on Trees.—The following is an excellent application to the scraped trunk to prevent the growth of moss, and destroy eggs of insects. One gallon of soft soap, one pound of flour of sulphur, and one quart of salt, to be well stirred together and put on with a hard brush.
773.To destroy Caterpillars in Gooseberry Trees.—Gather dust from any turnpike road, and shake it well among the trees, and the caterpillars will immediately fall to the ground. It is an excellent plan to dust the trees twice or three times a week, as it will effectually prevent the lodgment of caterpillars.
774.A neat method of Grafting.—Prepare the stock and the graft in the same way as for grafting with clay in the commonway. Then take a long slip of India-rubber, three-quarters of an inch broad, and about the thickness of a shilling. Tie one end of this elastic riband with a thread, well prepared by rubbing with shoemakers' wax, to the stock, a little below where it is cut for being joined to the graft; then make the joint as neatly as possible, and wrap it round with the riband, taking due care to keep the India-rubber fully stretched, and to make it overlap at each turn fully one-half of the breadth of the previous round, till the whole is covered, then tie the top with a thread in the same manner as at the bottom, and the operation is finished. After grafting the trees in the manner described, nothing is done to them till they are completely set, when the India-rubber slips are taken off to be ready again for the next year. When opened up, there is scarcely any appearance of a joint, and altogether they are much neater than when done with clay.
775.To Kill Vermin on Plants.—Tobacco water is much used for the above purposes; it is made by pouring a gallon of boiling water upon a pound of tobacco leaves, and straining it in twenty minutes.
Or, syringe the plants with this mixture: put into a jar five gallons of spring water and four ounces of chloride of lime, to which add four ounces of vitriol; when the lime is precipitated, pour off the clear solution, and keep it air-tight.
Or, mix coal tar and water, and sprinkle it over the infected plants.
776.To Propagate Plants.—It may be received as a general principle, that all plants which produce shoots may be propagated by cuttings; though some plants are much more difficult to propagate in this manner than others. Generally speaking, all the soft-wooded plants which have abundance of sap, such as geraniums, fuchsias, petunias, and verbenas, strike root readily. The usual mode for striking cuttings is to put them in fine sand, and to cover them with a bell-glass. Some cuttings which are difficult to strike are directed to have bottom heat; that is, the pots in which they are planted should be plunged into a hot-bed, that the stimulus afforded by the heat may induce the cuttings to throw out roots.
777.Plants watered by being placed in Dishes, improper.—The practice of placing flats or saucers under plants, and feeding them by the roots, that is, pouring the water continually into these dishes, and never on the earth at top, is highly improper. The water should always be poured on the surface of the earth, that it may filter completely through it, to the benefit and refreshment of the fibres.
778.When to plant Annual and Perennial Flowers.—Many kinds of annuals and perennials, sown in March and the beginning of April, will be fit for transplanting about the end of May, and may either be planted in patches about borders, or in beds, as fancy shall direct. Of these, the kinds improved by transplanting are, amaranthuses, China asters, columbines, French and African marigolds, fox-gloves, hollyhocks, India pinks, love-lies-bleeding, mallows, mignonette, prince's feather, scabious, stocks, sun-flowers, sweet-williams, wall-flowers, and others. They should be planted out in a showery time, if possible, or otherwise be frequently watered, till they have struck root.
779.To preserve Flower Seeds.—Those who are curious about saving flower-seeds must attend to them in the month of August. Many kinds will begin to ripen apace, and should be carefully sticked and supported, to prevent them from being shaken by high winds, and so partly lost. Others should be defended from much wet; such as asters, marigolds, and generally those of the class Syngenesia; as from the construction of their flowers they are apt to rot, and the seeds to mould, in bad seasons. Whenever they are thought ripe, or indeed any others, in wet weather, they should be removed to an airy shed or loft, gradually dried, and rubbed or beat out at conveniency.
780.Easy Method of discovering whether or not Seeds are sufficiently ripe.—Seeds, when not sufficiently ripe, will swim, but when arrived at full maturity, they will be found uniformly to fall to the bottom; a fact that is said to hold equally true of all seeds, from the cocoa-nut to the orchis.
781. There are some things that all farmers ought to know.
Sheep put into fresh stubble are apt to be killed by eating too much grain.
A bare pasture enriches not the soil, nor fattens the animals, nor increases the wealth of the owner.
One animal well fed is of more value than two poorly kept.
The better animals can be fed, and the more comfortable they can be kept, the more profitable they are—and all farmers work for profit.
Ground once well plowed is better than thrice poorly.
Bountiful crops are more profitable than poor ones. Make the soil rich, pulverize it well, and keep it clean, and it generally will be productive.
Weeds that grow unmolested around the fences, stumps, and stones, scatter their seeds over the farm, and are very likely to increase.
Cows well fed in winter give more milk in summer. An ox that is in good condition in the spring, will perform more labor, and stand the heat of summer much better than one that is poor.
When you see the fence down, put it up: if it remains until to-morrow, the cattle may get over.
What ought to be done to-day, do it; for to-morrow it may rain.
A strong horse will work all day without food, but keep him at it, and he will not last long.
A rich soil will produce good crops without manure, but keep it at it, and it will tire.
Farmers' sons had better learn to hold the plow, and feed the pigs, than measure tape and count buttons.
Young ladies who have the good fortune to become farmers' wives will find it more profitable to know how to make Johnny-cake, butter, and cheese, than to play on the piano.
All who wish to be rich, must spend less than they earn.
782. When a horse is brought in hot, loosen the girth, and allow the saddle to remain on for five minutes. Let him bewalked about in summer, and, in the winter, be put directly in the stable.
A horse should not be permitted to drink cold water, whilst warm; neither should the legs or feet of a horse be washed, until he gets cold.
Horses prefer soft water, and it is best for them. If the water be very hard and brackish, put a small piece of chalk into a pail of water, some time before it is given to the horse.
Fourteen pounds of hay in one day, or one hundred pounds a week, with three feeds of corn a day, are sufficient for a horse that is not over-worked.
In travelling, after the principal feed, let a horse have not less than two hours' rest, that his food may have time to digest.
After a hard day's work, give a horse about two gallons of gruel, made with a quart of oatmeal, half a gallon of ale, half a quartern of brandy, and the proper quantity of water. Wetted bran may be given advantageously to lean horses.
783.To dress a Horse.—On entering the stable, first give him about a gallon of clean water in a clean pail; then shake up the best litter under the manger, sweep out the stall, and clean out the stable.
Whilst the horse is feeding,dresshim: first, curry him all over with the currycomb, to loosen the dirt and dust on his skin; then remove the dust with a whalebone brush; next, smooth and cleanse the coat with a wisp of straw; and again use the brush and currycomb, to take off what dust may remain; after which, whisk him again with a damp lock of hay; and, finally, rub him down with a woollen or linen cloth.
Then turn round the horse in the stall, brush his head well, and wisp it clean and smooth with a damp lock of hay. Then wipe the dust and filth from the inside of the ears with a damp sponge, and draw the ears through the hands for a few minutes, until they are warm. Wash out the sponge, and with it cleanse the dust, &c., from the eyes; sponge the nostrils, and then rub the whole head with a cloth, in the same manner as the body.
Next, turn the horse round into his proper situation, put on the head-stall, and with a sponge wash the dirt and filth from under the tail. Then, clean and lay the mane with a comb and water-brush, used alternately with both hands; again wipe over the head and body, put on the body-clothes, and fasten them with a surcingle.
Examine the heels, pick out the dirt from the feet, and wash the heels with a brush and plenty of water. If the horse has bad feet, they should be dressed and stuffed.
Lastly, shake hay into the rack; and then the horse will be completely dressed.
784.Horse Flies.—To prevent horses being teased with flies, take two or three small handfuls of walnut leaves, upon which pour two or three quarts of soft cold water; let it infuse one night; pour the whole next morning into a kettle, and let it boil for a quarter of an hour: when cold, it will be ready for use. Nothing more is required than to moisten a sponge with the liquid, and, before the horse goes out of the stable, let those parts which are most irritable be smeared over with the liquor, namely, between and upon the ears, the flank, &c.
785.To milk Cows.—A cow should be milkedclean. Not a drop, if it can be avoided, should be left in the udder. It has been proved that the half-pint that comes outlast, hastwelve times, I think it is, as much butter in it, as the half-pint that comes outfirst. The udder would seem to be a sort of milk-pan, in which the cream is uppermost, and, of course, comes out last, seeing that the outlet is at the bottom. But, besides this, if you do not milk clean, the cow will give less and less milk, and will become dry much sooner than she ought.—Cobbett.
786. There is scarcely any branch of farming operations more productive than the raising of poultry for market; and yet, with a large majority of our agriculturists, it is considered of but little account. The proximity to a great market, and the facilities for reaching it possessed by many of our farmers in this country, should make the rearing of poultry an object of attention.
787.To fatten Poultry.—Poultry should be fattened in coops, and kept very clean. They should be furnished with gravel, but with no water. Their only food, barley-meal, mixed so thin with water, as to serve them for drink. Their thirst makes them eat more than they would, in order to extract the waterthat is among the food. This should not be put in troughs but laid upon a board, which should be clean washed every time fresh food is put upon it. It is foul and heated water which is the sole cause of the pip.
788.Method of expeditiously fattening Chickens.—Take, for that purpose, a quantity of rice, and grind or pound it into a fine flour; mix sufficient for present use with milk and a little coarse sugar; stir the whole well over the fire, till it makes a thick paste; and feed the chickens, in the day-time only, by putting as much of it as they can eat, but no more, into the troughs belonging to their coops. It must be eaten while warm; and, if they have also beer to drink, they will soon grow very fat. A mixture of oatmeal and treacle, combined till it crumbles, is said to form a food for chickens, of which they are so fond, and with which they thrive so rapidly, that at the end of two months they become as large as the generality of full-grown fowls fed in the common way.
789.Method of fattening Geese and Ducks.—Geese, the more quiet and undisturbed they are kept, the faster and better they fatten. Put young geese into a place that is almost dark; feed them with ground malt mixed with milk, and they will very soon, and at very little expense, be fit to kill.
Another way is cheaper still:—Mix barley-meal, pretty thick, with water, which they must constantly have by them, to eat as they choose; in another part of the shed where they are, keep a pan with some boiled oats and water, for them to resort to when they are inclined to change their food. This variety is agreeable to them, and they thrive apace, being so fattened at less expense than in any other manner.
790.Cobbett's method of fattening Geese.—Geese are raised bygrazing: but, to fat them, something more is required. Corn of some sort, or boiled Swedish turnips, or carrots, or white cabbages, or lettuces, make the best fatting. The modes that are resorted to by the French for fatting geese, are, I hope, such as Englishmen will never think of. He who can deliberately inflicttortureupon an animal, in order to heighten the pleasure his palate is to receive in eating it, is an abuser of the authority which God has given him, and is, indeed, a tyrant in his heart. Who would think himself safe, if at themercyof such a man?
791.Swedish method of raising Turkeys.—As soon as the young turkeys leave the shell, they are made to swallow one or two pepper-corns, and returned to their mother. They are afterwards fed with crumbs of bread and milk, and with common dock-leaves, chopped small, and mixed with fresh buttermilk, and kept in a warm place or sunshine, and guarded from the rain or from running among nettles.
Nothing, however, is more useful for them than the common garden pepper-cress, or cut-leaved cress. They are very fond of it; and, supplied with as much of it as they will eat, they will not be delicate in their other food.
792.To fatten Turkeys as they do in Norfolk.—The quality and size of the Norfolk turkeys are superior to those of any other part of England. They are fed almost entirely with buckwheat; and give them with it boiled oats, boiled malt, or boiled barley, and sometimes, for change, even boiled wheat and water.
793.To fatten Ducks.—Feed them with the same food as the turkeys or geese, and let them have a pan of water to dabble in.
794.To make Hens lay perpetually.—Hens will lay perpetually, if treated in the following manner:—Keep no roosters (cocks): give the hens fresh meat, chopped up like sausage-meat, once a day; a very small portion, say half an ounce a day to each hen, during the winter, or from the time insects disappear in the fall till they appear again in the spring. Never allow any eggs to remain in the nest for what are called "nest eggs." When the roosters do not run with the hens, and no nest eggs are left in the nest, the hens will not cease laying after the production of twelve or fifteen eggs, as they always do when roosters and nest eggs are allowed; but continue laying perpetually. The only reason why hens do not lay in winter as freely as in summer, is the want of animal food, which they get in summer in abundance, in the form of insects.
795.Cautions.—Sweep chimneys regularly; sweep frequently the lower part of the chimney within reach; the kitchen chimney should be swept once a month.
796.Fires in Chimneys.—When a chimney or flue is on fire, throw into the fire-place handfuls of flour of sulphur, which will destroy the flame. Or, apply a wet blanket, or old carpet, to the throat of the chimney, or over the front of the fire-place. A chimney-board, or register-flap, will answer the same purpose, by stopping the draught of air from below.
Beware of lights near combustibles; of children near fires and lights; and do not trust them with candles. Do not leave clothes to dry by the fire unwatched, either day or night; do not leave the poker in the fire; see that all be safe before you retire to rest.
797.Persons in Danger.—Whena firehappens, put it out in its earliest stage; if suffered to extend itself, give the alarm. Beware of opening doors, &c., to increase the fire by fresh air. Muster the whole family, see that none are missing. First save lives, then property. Think of the ways of escape; by the stairs, if no better way—creep along a room where the fire is, and creep down stairs backwards on hands and knees—(heated air ascends); come down stairs with a pillow before your face, and a wet blanket round the body, and hold your breath; or try the roof of the adjoining house. Throw out of the window a feather bed, to leap upon in the last extremity—fasten fire-escapes to the bed-posts first—send children down by the sack fastened to a rope, taking care of the iron spikes and area; then lower yourselves.
798.Means of Extinction.—The safety of the inmates being ascertained, the first object at a fire should be the exclusion of all fresh and the confinement of all burnt air—suffocatethe flames—and remember that burnt air is as great, if not a greater enemy to fire than water. For both purposes, of excluding the one air, and confining the other, all openings should be kept as carefully closed as possible. The prevailing practice ofbreaking windowsis peculiarly mischievous. The only excuse for this is the admission of water; but if the firemen were providedwith self supporting ladders, (that need not lean against the wall,) they might direct the water-hose through a single broken pane, with ten times more accuracy than by their random squirting from the street. Water should be made to beat out the fire by its impetus; sprinkling is useless.
799.Neighbors and Spectators.—When a fire happens, let everyrespectableneighbor attend. Send instantly for engines, both of the parish and of the insurance companies, and the parish and other ladder and fire-escapes. Look for the nearest fireplug—send instantly for policemen, and see they attend, and are active.