The Project Gutenberg eBook ofMy Crochet Sampler

The Project Gutenberg eBook ofMy Crochet SamplerThis ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.Title: My Crochet SamplerAuthor: Miss LambertRelease date: July 28, 2018 [eBook #57595]Language: EnglishCredits: Produced by Julia Miller and the Online DistributedProofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file wasproduced from images generously made available by TheInternet Archive/American Libraries.)*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY CROCHET SAMPLER ***

This ebook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this ebook or online atwww.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you will have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this eBook.

Title: My Crochet SamplerAuthor: Miss LambertRelease date: July 28, 2018 [eBook #57595]Language: EnglishCredits: Produced by Julia Miller and the Online DistributedProofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file wasproduced from images generously made available by TheInternet Archive/American Libraries.)

Title: My Crochet Sampler

Author: Miss Lambert

Author: Miss Lambert

Release date: July 28, 2018 [eBook #57595]

Language: English

Credits: Produced by Julia Miller and the Online DistributedProofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file wasproduced from images generously made available by TheInternet Archive/American Libraries.)

*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY CROCHET SAMPLER ***

Illustrated title pageMYCROCHET SAMPLER.BYMISS LAMBERT,AUTHORESS OF THE HAND-BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK,CHURCH NEEDLEWORK, MY KNITTINGBOOK, ETC. ETC.WITHNumerous Illustrations.NEW-YORK:D. M. PEYSER, 58 JOHN-ST.,AND 363 BROADWAY.1847.

MYCROCHET SAMPLER.

BYMISS LAMBERT,AUTHORESS OF THE HAND-BOOK OF NEEDLEWORK,CHURCH NEEDLEWORK, MY KNITTINGBOOK, ETC. ETC.

WITHNumerous Illustrations.

NEW-YORK:D. M. PEYSER, 58 JOHN-ST.,AND 363 BROADWAY.1847.

Leavitt, Trow & Co., Printers,33 Ann-street.

The following pages contain a selection of patterns adapted to almost every purpose to which the art of Crochet is applicable,—whether as an useful or a decorative species of work. Many of the designs have been expressly composed for this little treatise; others have been selected, as being very effective, from the chapter on Crochet in “The Hand-Book Of Needlework;” but the designs that have been taken from the latter have been re-engraved.

In the directions for working the several designs, the plan pursued by the writer (and apparently with success) in her books on Knitting, has been adopted. She has aimed at simplicity, and the use of as few words as possible, consistent with a clear explanation of the subject.

The reception given to “My Knitting Book,” as a treatise, separate from other descriptions of Decorative Needlework, led her to suppose that a distinct work on the sister art of Crochet might be equally acceptable; and the publication of “Das neue Hakelbuch Von Miss Lambert,”—a literal translation of the present volume, with its engravings, proves that it has excited some attention, even in Germany, a country which has laid claim to the invention of the art.

3, New Burlington Street,Regent Street.

Illustration of hands crocheting

Crochet,—a species of knitting originally practised by the peasants in Scotland, with a small hooked needle called a shepherd’s hook,—aided by taste and fashion, has, within the last seven years, obtained the preference over all other ornamental works of a similar nature. It derives its present name from the French; the instrument with which it is worked being by them, from its crooked shape, termed “crochet.” Thisart has attained its highest degree of perfection in England, whence it has been transplanted to France and Germany, and both these countries, although unjustifiably, have claimed the invention. Crochet has been applied, with considerable success, to the production of numerous useful and decorative articles, such as shawls, table-covers, couvre-pieds, pillows, ottomans, chairs, rugs, slippers, bags, cabats, purses, caps, waistcoats, and the like. Silk, wool, cotton, chenille, and gold, are all suitable materials for this description of work, but the purpose for which it is intended must necessarily determine their choice.

Crochet has the recommendation of being a less intricate method of working than knitting, and therefore claims a more extensive cultivation than perhaps it has hitherto met with. It is particularly adapted for making articles for charitable purposes; hence, the instruction of children inblindschools, in this easy and usefulart, is well worthy the attention of philanthropists. Waistcoats, shawls, knee-caps, sleeves, comforters, mittens, gloves, etc., may be made, without difficulty, in crochet. It has not, however, been deemed necessary in the following pages to give directions for any of these simple articles, as, when the crochet stitch is acquired, the modes of working such, and a variety of others, in daily use, will readily present themselves. As an example of the double appropriation, which almost all the following directions admit of, we may instance the bottom of a bag;—this, if commenced with a chain of about fifty stitches (not joining the ends), and worked in coarse wool, with a large needle, in rows backwards and forwards, gradually increasing with a seam stitch, will form a warm and comfortable round cape. A paper pattern, the size of any desired object, can easily be cut,—and the making a stitch at the commencement, or the decreasing in themiddle, or the end of a row, andvice versâ, render this work subservient to almost any form.

For large pieces of work, when wool is employed, that kind denominated fleecy, either English or German, is generally to be preferred. This material, of a six-thread size, with an ivory needle, offers the easiest kind of work with which we are acquainted. It may be readily learned, and has, therefore, been much practised, both by invalids, and by persons whose sight either needs relief, or has become impaired. All striped patterns, if desired, may be worked in narrow breadths, and joined in the dividing lines; so that a table cover may be made in four or six lengths, and afterwards sewn together with wool, without the least detriment to its appearance. Crochet may be executed with coarse and fine chenille, for pillows, bags, caps, and waistcoats; with crochet silk, for caps, slippers, and bags; with coarsenetting silk, it forms strong purses, bags, and slippers; and the most delicate work may be done with the finer silks. Gold and silver cord, and passing, may be intermixed with the chenilles and silks, or employed separately; and gold and steel beads, first strung on the silk, may be worked in various patterns, so as to produce the most rich and beautiful effect.

Crochet may be divided into plain single crochet, plain double crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet with one, two, three, or more stitches. These varieties will be described, as they occur, in the following directions for working.

The mode of working the crochet stitch, although in itself most simple, is difficult to describe in writing; but, with the aid of the annexed engraving, which shows the position of the hands, and the manner in which the needle and the work should be held, we will endeavour to explain the elementary process.

Illustration of hands crocheting

Having wound a skein of wool, make a loop at one end; through this loop draw another loop, through this second loop another, and so on, moderately tightening each, as it is drawn through, until achainof sufficient length be made to serve as thefoundationfor the article intended to be worked. Pass the needle through the last loop of this foundation, and catching the wool, draw it through, repeating the same at every successive loop; then, return along this row, and, in a similar manner, form a second. A repetition of this process, alternately backwards and forwards, from right toleft, and from left to right, will give the first and easiest lesson. The work will be the same on both sides, producing, by turns, one raised and one sunken row.

Before proceeding further, however, it will, be necessary, for the better understanding of the directions hereafter offered, to give an

Illustration of a crochet needleTHE CROCHET NEEDLE.

THE CROCHET NEEDLE.

A chain,—the foundation, formed by a succession of loops drawn one through the other.

Plain single crochet,—where one loop only is made on the needle, and drawn through each stitch. It is lighter and thinner than double crochet.

Plain double crochet,—where two loops are kept on the needle, and the wool drawnthrough both before the stitch is finished. This is the crochet stitch generally practised, and that used for working table-covers, etc.

Double stitch crochet,—in this, both meshes of the chain are taken. It is principally employed for the soles of shoes, and where extra thickness is required, but it is not suitable for working patterns.

Plain stitch elastic crochet,—is worked alternately in rows backwards and forwards, from right to left and from left to right, always taking the under mesh of the chain.

No. 1.

No. 1.

Plain stitch open crochet,—is composed of chains, of five stitches each in length, forming loops, each fifth stitch being crocheted to thecentre stitch of the corresponding loop in the preceding row, as shown in the engraving. It is mostly used for purses.

No. 2.

No. 2.

Open crochet—is worked (as nearly as can be described) as follows:—make a chain of the length required; work one plain stitch at the beginning. Bring the silk round the needle, and pass the needle through the first loop of the chain; through this bring the silk, which makes three stitches on the needle; draw the silk through the first two stitches, which leaves two on the needle; then draw the silk through these two, which leaves one on the needle; through this one, make one plain stitch. Putthe silk over the needle, and bring it through the third loop of the chain; the three stitches, as before, will now be found on the needle; draw the silk through the first two, which leaves two on the needle; draw the silk through these two, which finishes the stitch, and leaves one upon the needle as before. The plain stitch that is then made between the two double stitches, allows for the stitch which was passed in the chain, and leaves an open space. It is suitable for purses, bags, etc.

No. 3.

No. 3.

Double open crochet,—similar to the open crochet stitch, but varied by making the twolong stitches together; this is done by omitting the single stitch, and passing the needle through the next loop of the chain, instead of missing one stitch; thus producing two stitches together, and then an open space. It is suitable for bags, purses, &c.

No. 4.

No. 4.

Treble open crochet,—also similar to the preceding, but varied by making three stitches successively, without making any plain stitch, which produces alternate squares of open space and stitches.Beadsmay be introduced on it with very good effect in the following manner:—let the beads be threaded on the silk, and pass one on the middle stitch of the threedouble stitches, giving a bead in the centre of each square. This stitch makes a very pretty purse.

To make a stitch,—at the commencement and end of a row, is to make one stitch of a chain before the first stitch, and after the last, which in the next row are to be crocheted.

A dividing, or seam stitch,—called also araisedstitch, is made by putting the needle through both meshes of the chain, and working two stitches in the same hole. These stitches must always be made exactly over each other. In crocheting circles they form a kind of star pattern, and serve the purpose of increasing stitches. They should not be employed when working withchenille.

To increase a stitch,—to make two stitches in the same loop.

To decrease,—to take two stitches together, or to miss one stitch. Decreasing is always done in the same ratio as increasing.

True or perfect stitch,—when working in different colours, the keeping the stitches directly over each other, without any appearance of the half-stitch. This requires care, but it greatly adds to the beauty of the work, and makes the pattern more distinct.

To fasten off,—to draw the wool through the last stitch.

To fasten on,—lay the ends of the wool contrariwise, and crochet a few stitches with both, or work in the second wool, and run the end in with a needle at the back of the work.

To run the ends,—to pass them down a few stitches with a needle. This is the neatest and strongest plan; but they may be tied and cut off.

A dividing line,—generally formed of two stitches alternately up and down, into the ground of the stripes on either side.

N. B. The engravings of the patterns are placed in the book as they are intended to beworked; that is, by commencing at the lower part, on the right hand side.

A steel crochet needle is generally advisable;—with expert workers, it makes the most even stitches, but it is easier to work with an ivory needle.

The second-sized netting silk is prettiest for purses.

The coarsest, or crochet silk, is best adapted for bags, with steel or gold beads.

Where many colours are required in a pattern, and the same do not very frequently occur, it is advisable to introduce them in short lengths, instead of carrying on each thread. This should always be attended to when working with chenille.

When beads are used, they should be strung on the silk with a needle.

When beads are introduced, the wrong side of the work becomes the right. It is possible to crochet with the beads on the right side, but they never lay so firmly, nor indeed is it the proper way of using them.

The average number of stitches for the length of a purse, in fine silk, is one hundred and sixty. In coarse silk,—one hundred and ten.

From ninety to one hundred stitches form the circle of a purse in fine silk.

One hundred and thirty stitches may be taken for the round of a bag, in crochet silk.

A table-cover, in six-thread fleecy, is generally computed at about four hundred stitches in length.

Borders of flowers, and very intricate patterns, may be worked in crochet, but it would be impossible to convey a complete idea of these even to the most experienced worker, without greatly exceeding the limits of the presentwork. The expert needle-woman will soon perceive the best method of copying any pattern of this description she may desire.

The termschinéandombré, are frequently applied to the materials employed in crochet and knitting. Wool and silk arechiné, when two, three, or moredifferentcolours are introduced, at intervals, on one thread, in the process of dying;—they areombré, whenonecolour only is similarly employed, but which gradually runs from the lightest to the darkest shade.

N. B. In the directions for working the different patterns in crochet, it must be borne in mind, that unless any other stitch be mentioned, the plain, ordouble crochet stitch, is always to be employed.

This is merely given as the first andeasiestpattern in crochet, for the purpose of teaching the stitch.

A good-sized ivory or steel crochet needle, with six-thread fleecy, will be required. Instead of working the rows backwards and forwards, as before described, begin each row separately at the same end. When the last stitch of each row is finished, draw the wool through, and cut it off, leaving an end of two or three inches. It is impossible to determine the exact number of stitches,—that must depend on the article, and its required size; but with this description of wool, half a yard in length will generally be found to number about sixty-five stitches, and a calculation may accordingly be made.

First stripe—one row black; one row white; one row black.

Second stripe—one row dark scarlet; one bright scarlet; one light scarlet;—reverse the same, to form a shaded stripe.

Third stripe—the same as the first.

Fourth stripe—the same as the second, but in shades of blue.

These stripes are to be repeated alternately.

No. 5.

No. 5.

The ground of this pattern is plain. The cheques are composed ofchinéwool, the first row differing in colour from that of the second. The dividing line is in plain colours.

This pattern may be worked in stripes of different colours, varying the colour of the cheques agreeably to that of the ground. It is adapted for a pillow, or a variety of other articles, according to the material employed.

No. 6.

No. 6.

Zephyr, or double German wool.

This pattern may be worked according to the two following methods. The first is the easiest, as one thread of wool only is required to be carried on to form the pattern.

Commence with a chain and one row of black.Second row—scarlet.Third row—straw colour.

Crochet a stripe, consisting of seven rows of imperial blue, with the pattern inchinéwool—black, white, and scarlet.

Repeat the three plain rows, as before, reversed,—straw colour, scarlet, and black.

Crochet another stripe with drab, with the pattern inchinéwool—blue, black, and white.

Commence again as at first.

The second method of working this pattern is as follows,—having the plain rows, and the ground of the two stripes as before. Crochet the figure of the blue stripe,—

First row—three stitches black.

Second row—three stitches claret; two black.

Third row—one stitch dark claret; one gold colour; two dark scarlet; one black.

Fourth row—one stitch scarlet; two gold colour; two scarlet.

Fifth row—three stitches scarlet.

Crochet the figure on the drab stripe,—

First row—three stitches claret.

Second row—three stitches dark green; two claret.

Third row—one stitch middle green; one white; two middle green; one claret.

Fourth row—one stitch light green; two white; two light green.

Fifth row—three stitches light green.

The above pattern may be worked for a bag, with the same colours, using silk instead of wool, and commencing with a chain of about one hundred and thirty stitches, with No. 2 Crochet Silk. It is a very easy bag to work, and, if wished to be more elegant, gold may be introduced. This pattern, also, with the same sized silk, will make a very pretty crochet slipper.

Commence with a chain and one row of amber.

Second row—two stitches of amber, and two of black,—alternately.

No. 7.

No. 7.

Then crochet one plain row of black, which forms the ground of the first stripe. The pine pattern on this stripe occupies five rows in height; thefirst row—blue; thesecond—scarlet; thethird—green; thefourth—yellow; thefifth—white. One plain row of black; andone row—two stitches of black, and two of amber,—alternately;—followed by one plain row of amber, complete the first stripe.

The ground of the second stripe is scarlet; the dividing lines,—both at top and bottom,—imperial blue, the inner row of each being composed of two stitches, alternately blue and scarlet. The pattern occupies seven rows in height; thefirst row—green; thesecond—black; thethird—blue; thefourth—amber; thefifth—green; thesixth—stone colour; theseventh—white.

The third stripe is imperial blue; the dividing lines—amber; the pattern,—first row—black;second—scarlet;third—white;fourth—green;fifth—drab.

The fourth stripe is white; the dividing lines—scarlet; the pattern,—first row—green;second—black;third—blue;fourth—scarlet;fifth—green:sixth—lilac;seventh—light green.

Repeat from the first stripe.

This pattern, worked with six-thread fleecy, will be found very easy and effective for a table cover; using a steel or ivory crochet needle, according to the fancy of the worker.

The same pattern, with the colours as above described for the first and second stripes, with No. 1 Crochet Silk, will make an extremely elegant bag. This should be commenced with a chain of about two hundred and sixteen stitches, united at the two ends, whether for a round, or square bag. Gold thread may be substituted in the dividing lines, working only one plain row, instead of two, as in the engraving. Five of the narrow, and four of the wide stripes, will form a bag of an ordinary size.

This pattern may be worked beautifully with chenille, or with chenille and gold, for a variety of purposes.

No. 8.

No. 8.

This pattern is recommended as being exceedingly easy; and, at the same time very pretty. Six-thread fleecy, with an ivory needle.

First stripe.

Second stripe.

Third stripe.

Repeat the second stripe, and commence again from the first.

This pattern may be varied, by working the first and third stripes as above directed, with the black and white stripes in double open crochet. It may also be done in either manner with coarse chenille.

The scroll pattern of the border of this design is on a black ground. The ground of each stripe of the Persian pattern for the centremay be varied. Six, or eight thread fleecy, with a steel or ivory needle. Commence with:—

No. 9.

No. 9.

Chain andfirst row—dark red brown.

Second row—scarlet.

Third row—black.

Fourth row—one stitch light green; one black; five red brown; five black; three brown; two black; two green; two black; three brown; five black; five brown; one black; two green.—Repeat to the end of the row.

Fifth row—one stitch middle green; one orange; four black; two orange; three black; one orange; three black; one orange; four green; one orange; three black; one orange; three black; two orange; four black; one orange; two green.—Repeat.

Sixth row—one stitch orange; two black; two orange; two black; two orange; two black; one orange; one scarlet; two orange; one black; one orange; two dark green; one orange; one black; two scarlet; one black; one orange; two black; two orange; two black; two orange; two black; one orange; one green.—Repeat.

Seventh row—one stitch gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; one black; three gold colour; one black; one gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; one black; three gold colour; oneblack; one gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; one black.—Repeat.

Eighth row—one stitch gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; two black; two gold colour; one black; one gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; one gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; one gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; two gold colour; two black; one gold colour; one black; two scarlet; one black; one gold colour; one black.—Repeat.

Ninth row—one stitch dark blue; one yellow; three black; one yellow; two black; two yellow; two black; two yellow; two black; one yellow; two blue; one yellow; two black; two blue; two black; two yellow; two black; one yellow; three black; one yellow; two blue.—Repeat.

Tenth row—one stitch middle blue; oneblack; three yellow; four black; two yellow; four black; one yellow; four blue; one yellow; four black; two yellow; four black; three yellow; one black; two blue.—Repeat.

Eleventh row—ten stitches black; five white; two black; two light blue; two black; five white; ten black; one blue.—Repeat.

Twelfth row—black.

Thirteenth row—red brown.

Fourteenth row—scarlet. This finishes the border.

Commence the ground of the centre, or second stripe, with one plain row of white; the colours of the Persian pine pattern on which are as follow:—

First row—three stitches dark green; two white; two green.

Second row—two stitches light scarlet; one white; two scarlet.

Third row—two stitches middle green; three dark scarlet; one white; three scarlet; two green.

Fourth row—four stitches light green; two white; one black; two white; four green.

Fifth row—two stitches light green; three dark blue; one white; three blue; two green.

Sixth row—two stitches light blue; one white; two blue.

Seventh row—two stitches light green; two white; three green.

One plain row of white finishes the stripe. The brown and scarlet rows are again to be worked, when the border may be repeated, alternately with the stripes of the Persian pattern; or, the latter alone may be repeated, with the colour of the ground varied,—the colours of the pattern being also changed, to harmonize with it.—The colours, as above given, are for a white ground.

This pattern is adapted for the border of a table-cover, hearth-rug or stair-carpet. Itmay be worked in four, six, or eight-thread fleecy, with a steel or ivory needle, according to its appropriation. The colours required are three distinct shades of green, two of scarlet, two of blue, two of gold colour, two of lilac, black, white, and geranium: the proper selection of these constitutes much of the beauty of the pattern:—the geranium colours should be very bright. Commence with:—


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