Marriage Procession in Dakhla Oasis.Note the clown and band in front, the bride’s friends firing guns and carrying flags, her tea things and her wedding dress on a cross above the procession behind. She herself wears old clothes. (p. 252)Vegetation in Hattia Kairowin.This shows the neglected palms and scrub to be seen in aHattia, or uninhabited oasis. (p. 222).
Marriage Procession in Dakhla Oasis.Note the clown and band in front, the bride’s friends firing guns and carrying flags, her tea things and her wedding dress on a cross above the procession behind. She herself wears old clothes. (p. 252)
Marriage Procession in Dakhla Oasis.Note the clown and band in front, the bride’s friends firing guns and carrying flags, her tea things and her wedding dress on a cross above the procession behind. She herself wears old clothes. (p. 252)
Marriage Procession in Dakhla Oasis.
Note the clown and band in front, the bride’s friends firing guns and carrying flags, her tea things and her wedding dress on a cross above the procession behind. She herself wears old clothes. (p. 252)
Vegetation in Hattia Kairowin.This shows the neglected palms and scrub to be seen in aHattia, or uninhabited oasis. (p. 222).
Vegetation in Hattia Kairowin.This shows the neglected palms and scrub to be seen in aHattia, or uninhabited oasis. (p. 222).
Vegetation in Hattia Kairowin.
This shows the neglected palms and scrub to be seen in aHattia, or uninhabited oasis. (p. 222).
Auguries as to the future of a child are drawn by his parents from events that happen about the time of his birth; thus, if his father, or any member of his family should meet with an accident, or fall ill at that period, it is considered that he will be unlucky. If, however, some stroke of luck should fall to his father, such, for instance, as his being able to conclude a good bargain, it is thought to be a good omen for the child’s future.
It is said to be unlucky to be born on a Wednesday, for this day of the week throughout the year is considered to be an ill-omened one in the oases—the last Wednesday of the month of Safar being considered to be the most unlucky of all.
As soon as a son has been born, in either Dakhla or Kharga Oases, a little ceremony takes place, which cannot be described here, but which is intended to cause the child when he grows up to become a very fast runner. In both these oases, a very curious ceremony takes place on the seventh day after his birth, which is known as “sieving the baby.” A pinch of salt and a small quantity of each of the grains—wheat, barley and rice—grown in the oases, is placed in a round sieve. In this sieve, too, is placed the baby. It is then shaken, as though it were being used in the ordinary way, while a woman close by beats as loudly as possible with a pestle on a mortar, as though she were pounding rice.
The grain and salt that pass through the sieve are then carefully collected and taken by the father of the child and thrown into the air to the north, south, east and west in various places throughout his village. The ceremony is completed by the father taking the sieve and bowling it like a hoop along the village streets.
The effect of this quaint proceeding is said to be as follows: the grain and salt put into the sieve with the child are supposed to protect him against want and cause him to have plenty to eat throughout his life. The pestle and mortar are beaten close to him to ensure that he will not be frightened by any noise when he grows up. The seed is thrown to the four points of the compass in his village to act as a charm to enable him to travel in security in anydirection should he leave it. The bowling of the sieve about the streets is another charm intended to make him a fast runner.
These elaborate precautions, taken to ensure that the child shall be able to travel safely, and that he shall turn out a fast runner, seem quite out of character with such an eminently unathletic and sedentary race as the dwellers in the oases. They seem to be more in accordance with the character of the Arabs, from whom it is possible that these ceremonies may be derived, or perhaps they may owe their origin to some tribe in the Sudan. This sieving ceremony is said to be also occasionally performed in the Nile Valley.
The first cutting of a child’s hair and finger-nails is attended with some ceremony, and takes place when it is a year old. In the case of a boy, a tuft of hair is left long on his forehead, to remind his parents that they should be grateful to Allah for giving them a son—a male child being always considered of much greater value than a girl.
As it is for some reason considered to be unlucky to open a pair of scissors before a child’s face—perhaps for fear of accidents—its nails are always first cut with its hand behind its back; more usually, however, they are bitten off short by its parents. The ends of the fingers are then dipped into newly ground flour to “prevent them from growing again.”
If a child is regarded as being unusually handsome or well conditioned, so that the mother fears it may incur the evil eye of other matrons less favoured in their progeny, a black cross as a protection is smeared on its forehead, if it is its face that is likely to be envied; or on the back of its hand if it should be its plumpness that it is feared will cause heart burnings. This custom is most probably derived from the Copts.
The fear of the evil eye is widely distributed, especially in the East, and in the oases many precautions are taken to guard against it. To ensure a good crop on a palm, for instance, an animal’s bone—frequently a skull—or a piece of manure, wrapped up in a cloth, is hung in its branches, and sometimes small doll-like figures are used in the same way. Charms, in the form of texts, or cabalistic signs, written either by a religious sheykh, or by certain men whoare supposed to have a special gift in this direction, are sometimes done up in a little packet, made generally of leather, and hung round the neck of a child or valuable beast as a protection from the evil eye; but they are not very much in request.
They have also a charm that they recite before lying down to sleep, or sitting down in a place they suspect to be infested with scorpions or other poisonous creatures. Having recited it they spit to the north, south, east and west, and then consider themselves to be safe from attack. I attempted to get a copy of the spell that was given to me translated, but was unable to find anyone who could do so. It appears to be merely gibberish.
Boys in the oases are usually circumcised between the ages of three to five years—the parents, if poor, wait till they have saved enough to make the necessary feast; they also, if possible, endeavour to make the circumcision coincide with a marriage in their village, in order that expense may be saved to both parties by combining the marriage and circumcision processions. The richer families for the circumcision feast will kill a sheep, or even a cow, but with the poorer classes a very much simpler meal suffices.
Girls are married at an extremely early age—sometimes when only eight years old. But in these cases the wife probably merely acts at first as an attendant upon her husband. When between twelve or fourteen years old, however, they begin to have children, ceasing to do so between forty and forty-five.
Divorce is extremely common. I was shown a young girl in Dakhla, whose age I was told was only twelve—she did not look to be more—who had already been divorced three times. The state of morality in these oases is very low indeed, and this, combined with the very early marriages, probably has a good deal to say to the feeble character of the inhabitants.
Marriages are celebrated with great pomp—especially in the case of the richer inhabitants—and their ceremonies differ in some noticeable points from those in the Nile Valley.
Mahr, or dowry, is paid by the man to the bride’s family in all but the case of the very poor. This preliminary having been settled, the ceremony of thekatb el kitab, or “writing of the writ,” is gone through, though, as in the case of the Nile Valley, it is seldom that any written contract of marriage is drawn up. The bridegroom, accompanied by a friend or two, goes to the house of his intended bride, where he meets her representative, to whom he pays over the portion of the dowry agreed upon. Everyone recites thefatha, or first chapter of the Koran—from which proceeding the ceremony is often alluded to as the “saying of thefatha”—and then the bridegroom and the representative of the bride squat facing each other on the ground, and, prompted usually by a religious sheykh, take hold of each other’s hand and swear the marriage contract.
About a week later, theZeffet el Arusa, the procession of the bride to the bridegroom’s house, takes place shortly after noon. A procession of this kind that I saw in Dakhla Oasis, was headed by asutary, or jester, who had tied the end of the long leaf of a palm to his waist in front and then passed the other end through his legs and up his back, so that it had very much the appearance of a bushy tail. He carried a staff in each hand, and hopped about on these in a most grotesque manner.
Behind him followed a man beating a drum of the kind known in Egypt as thetabl beladi, beside him walked a blind man clashing cymbals (kas). Then followed a crowd of the friends and relations of the bride.
The bride herself, unlike those of the Nile Valley, does not wear her wedding dress. This is borne behind her, held above the heads of the procession so that all can see it, by being supported on a couple of sticks lashed together to form a cross. She herself wears an ordinary robe, and a shawl, usually red or of a bright colour, on her head.
The gala dress worn by the women of these oases differs somewhat from that usually worn by the women of Egypt. It is generally either black or of a very dark blue, and is worked on the front in coloured wools—usually red and yellow—in a sort of “herring-bone” pattern. The richerwomen usually cover a great part of the front of their dress, down to rather below the waist, with silvered sequins sewn closely together on to the material of which the dress is composed, producing an effect much resembling old scale mail.
Their hair usually hangs down their backs in three or four long plaits, which are frequently decorated at the end with strings of beads.
Another peculiarity of the wedding ceremonies in the oases, is that the bride’sgahaz, that is to say the articles contributed by her to the joint household, are not, as in the case of the Egyptians, sent to her future home in a separate procession, but are borne in theZeffet el Arusa. In the case of a rich bride these may consist of tea and coffee cups, a huge kind of brass urn, not unlike the Russian samovar, for heating water when making tea, and a brass tray. These will be carried by one of her male friends on the tray in the procession.
But in the majority of cases, amongst these poverty-stricken people, the bride’sgahazonly consists of a few bowls and water bottles, made of the local terra-cotta, and in that case they are carried on a stool, which the bride herself places on the top of her head when she walks in the procession, to her future husband’s house. This stool perhaps corresponds to the canopy under which the bride walks in the Egyptian villages, or possibly it may be the representation of the chair for the bridegroom to place his turban on, that Lane mentions as usually forming one of the articles of the bride’sgahaz.
Two large flags, generally green in colour and covered with suitable texts, are usually carried in the procession, which also includes some male relations of the bride armed with guns, which they blaze off at frequent intervals as it advances. At the rear of thezaffehis frequently a man beating atar, or tambourine, and a boy dressed all in white and riding on a horse, who has been introduced into thezaffehto save the expense of a separate circumcision procession for him alone.
Thezaffehis followed by a feast at the bridegroom’s house, after which the guests all offer presents, usually inthe form of money, to the bride. During this entertainment there is the usual native band playing and sometimes a dancing girl performs—but this is only in the case of the richer natives. Among the poorer ones, that is to say a large majority of cases, there is no music or dancing, and sometimes even no feast or presents.
The funeral procession to the grave presents some features not to be seen, so far as I am aware, in the Nile Valley. While I was staying in the Dakhla Oasis, quite a sensation was caused by the death of the guardian of a sheykh’s tomb in the district, and I subsequently saw his funeral procession, which much resembled that of a bride going to her future home. Thebuffoonat the head of it was of course absent, but instead of the usual group of chanting men to be seen in Egypt, there were the same men as in the case of a wedding, beating drums and cymbals. These were followed by male friends of the deceased, and the same flags that figured in the bride’s procession. Behind them came the bier, covered with a shawl, after which followed the usual crowd of wailing women, the rear being brought up by a woman carrying a tray covered by a cloth, containing bread and dates for distribution to the poor after the ceremony.
After the funeral, the female portion of the procession, accompanied by the drum and cymbals, formed up again and returned to the house of the deceased guardian in a sort of slow dance, occasionally emitting short, shrill shrieks of the usual type.
In the evening the funeral feast and what is known as akhatmais held at the deceased’s house, when one or morefikis—holy men of a humble kind, frequently the village schoolmasters—chant from the Koran the sixty-seventh chapter known as theSurat el Mulk(the chapter of the kingdom) which deals largely with the punishments that await unbelievers when they get to hell. Food is usually provided for all present. That carried in the procession is distributed at the grave.
The night following the funeral is usually called by Mohammedans theLeylet el Wahsha, or night of desolation, though it is also sometimes known as theLeylet elWahada,or “night of solitude,” because Moslems believe that the soul remains with the body during this first night after burial.
The female relations of the deceased go to visit the grave daily in the oasis for fifteen days, and longer if he was much beloved.
The grave, I have heard—I have not looked into one—is of the usual Moslem pattern, with thelahd, or recess at the side of the bottom, in which the body is laid. They are so oriented that the corpse, when lying on its side, faces towards Mecca. The recess is walled up before the grave is filled in.
Mohammedans believe that as soon as the mourners have left the cemetery, the grave is visited by two coal-black angels with china blue eyes, calledMunkar(the “Unknown”) andNakir(the “Repudiating”) whose business it is to question the dead man as to his belief in Mohammed and Allah, and if necessary to inflict upon him the “punishment of the grave.” One of them seizes him by the tuft of hair that most Moslems have on the top of the head, and raises him into a sitting position, while the other puts the questions. Should his answers prove satisfactory the grave is greatly enlarged and filled with light, and the defunct is thrown into a deep sleep that lasts until the Resurrection. But if the corpse proves to be that of an infidel, he is beaten to a jelly with an iron club.
In view of the visit of these two angels, it is usual, before the burial party leaves the grave, for afiki(holy man) to seat himself before it, and proceed to instruct the corpse as to the answers he is to give when they come.
The funeral processions I saw in the oases seemed to have little of the solemnity associated with a European interment. That of the guardian of the tomb already referred to—although the corpse was that of a man who might have been supposed from his occupation to have been somewhat of a saintly character—on seeing me standing by with a camera, hesitating to take a photograph for fear of intruding on such a solemn occasion, of their own accord came in my direction, and one of them volunteered the information that I could photograph them ifI wished to do so. Unfortunately the light was too bad to enable me to avail myself of the invitation.
It is curious to note that in Dakhla Oasis—though this is not so apparently in Kharga—both funeral and circumcision feasts are sometimes held at the tombs of the local religious sheykhs.
The methods of celebrating some of the religious festivals differ slightly in the oases from the usages of the Nile Valley. The tenth day of Moharrem, the first month of the Moslem’s year, is the anniversary of several important events in their religion, and is kept as a fête throughout Egypt; it is known asYum Ashura“the tenth day.”
It is said to be the anniversary of the day on which Noah first issued from the ark after the flood; and Adam and Eve—who, according to the Moslems, somehow lost sight of each other on their expulsion from the Garden of Eden—are said to have met again for the first time afterwards on this day. Some say that this is the day upon which Allah created them, and also that heaven, hell, life and death, the pen with which Allah wrote down the predestined actions of all mankind, and the exact number of all things that were to be ever created and the tablet upon which they were all recorded, were all created on this day. But more especially it is the anniversary of the day upon which El Hussein, the son of ’Ali, and the prophet’s grandson, was killed in the Battle of Karbala.
On this last account it is held of much greater sanctity by the Shia branch of Mohammedans, to be found in Persia and India, than by the Sunni branch, to which nearly all Egyptian Moslems belong.
In both Dakhla and Kharga Oases it is customary on this day for everyone to receive a present as on our Christmas Day. A boy is given a chicken, a girl a pigeon, a man a cock turkey, duck or other large bird, while a woman receives a hen bird of the same species. All the eggs in the village are saved up for this feast, and for a week or so before it is almost impossible to buy any. These eggs are hard-boiled and dyed, and are used by the people to pelt each other with—this, I believe, is also done in some parts of the Nile Valley, but not on the occasion of this feast,but on that ofShem en Nessim. A sort of game is also played by the men in the oases, who knock their eggs together, the one that breaks first being taken by the owner of the egg that broke it.
“Pace” eggs are used in Cumberland at Easter in a game exactly similar to that described. “Pace” being supposed to be a corruption of the French “Pasque.”
In these oases they believe, as the inhabitants of the Nile Valley also do, that on the night following this festival a benevolentjinni(female spirit, or fairy) wanders sometimes round the villages, in the form of a mule, known as the Baghallat el Ashar, or “mule of the tenth,” bearing a pair of saddle-bags filled with treasure to be bestowed upon some deserving Moslem. In order that the mule may have every opportunity of selecting its inmates as the recipients of its bounty, the door of every house in the village is left open during the night.
In the Nile Valley they believe that the mule has a string of bells round her neck, and the head of a dead man on her back between the saddle-bags, and that on arriving at the house of the fortunate individual whom she intends to enrich, she shakes her head, so ringing the bells, at the door, and remains there until the owner comes out and empties the saddle-bags and fills them up with straw. This, however, he will be unable to do, unless he can muster up sufficient courage to remove the dead man’s head from her back, a proceeding made somewhat formidable by the fact that the head rolls its eyes and scowls at him in what, I was told, was a most terrifying manner. I could not, however, hear that this belief holds good in the oases.
At the beginning of summer comes theKhamasin—the “fifty days,” during which the hotsimumwind may be expected to blow. The first day of this is known asShem en Nessim—“smelling the breeze.” It is the day after the Easter Sunday of the Coptic Church, and is kept as a festival throughout Egypt.
On this day in the oases, barley from the new crop is hung over the outer doors of the houses to bring plenty in the following year. Onions too—which overnight have been placed under the pillows of the inhabitants ofthe house—“to make them energetic”—are hung with the barley in order that they may “bring refreshment” to the family till next season. The onions grown in the oases appear to be unusually pungent, and I have several times seen a native “refresh” himself by stuffing a small one up one of his nostrils. Perhaps inhaling air through one of these odoriferous bulbs in this manner produces a cooling sensation on the air passages similar to that caused by peppermint.
In some cases branches of theoshar[14]tree are placed with the barley and onions over the door in order to keep off scorpions, reptiles and venomous insects, and to prevent the family from being lazy. This use ofosharI believe to be peculiar to Dakhla and Kharga Oases.
It is also usual on this day for the natives to bathe before dawn in order that they may be “refreshed,” till the following year—when presumably they take their next bath. This custom I have heard also obtains in the Nile Valley.
Theoshartree, when cut, exudes sap freely, and this sap is occasionally inserted by men, who wish to avoid enlistment, into their eyes. It is said to set up violent inflammation for a few days, resulting in more or less total loss of sight. Fibre from the dried fruit of this tree is also used to stuff pillows with; but I was unable to ascertain whether it was supposed to have any peculiar properties.
The most interesting festival to be seen in Kharga, which is not, I believe, held in Dakhla, is theAid el Mahmal, or fête of theMahmal, which takes place on the 15th day of the Arab month,Sha’aban. This day is a religious anniversary in the Nile Valley, the night being known as “the night of the middle ofSha’aban.”
It is believed that there is a lote tree in Paradise known as the “Tree of Extremity,” which bears as many leaves as there are human beings living in the world, and that each leaf has the name of the being it represents written upon it. On the night of the middle ofSha’abanthis tree is shaken and the leaves inscribed with the names of thosewho are going to die during the year fall off. Many pious Moslems accordingly spend a great part of the night reciting a special form of prayer in the Mosque. But, so far as I know, no other ceremonial takes place in the Nile Valley on this day, so although the date is identical with that of theAid el Mahmalof Kharga Oasis, there does not appear to be any connection between them.
Nor does this Kharga festival appear to be in any way connected with theMahmal, whose annual departure from Cairo for the pilgrimage to Mecca is such a well-known sight for the tourists in Egypt. The KhargaMahmalin appearance much resembles the Cairo one, but its red and green covering is not so gorgeous. It is carried in procession round the village of Kharga, accompanied by the usual crowd bearing flags, beating drums, banging off guns and carrying on thefantasiausual to ceremonial processions.
Instead of being merely an empty litter, as in the case of the CairoMahmal, a man sits in it, who collectsbakhshishfrom the inhabitants of the village. Each gives him a handful or two of dates, grain or the produce of some other crop of the neighbourhood. Thisbakhshishhe keeps as a perquisite.
I was unable to find out the origin of the custom. The Kharga natives claim that theirMahmalis a much older institution than the Cairo one, which they say was copied from theirs. They say it dates back to the time of the Fatimide dynasty, who ruled over Egypt fromA.D.908 toA.D.1171, while the CairoMahmalis only supposed to date from aboutA.D.1265. The privilege of riding in the KhargaMahmalis hereditary; the family enjoying the right to do so being described to me as a family offikis.
When I was in Kharga, the representative of the family was the village schoolmaster—Khalifa Zenata by name—and may possibly be the descendant of some petty sultan who ruled over the oasis, or perhaps of some holy sheykh.
In the latter case possibly theAid el Mahmalis a form ofmulid, or anniversary birthday fête; but I could hear of no othermulidsfor any of the local sheykhs in either Kharga or Dakhla.Mahmals, however, are used at a fewplaces in the Nile Valley for carrying a carpet to the tomb of a deceased sheykh on hismulid.
TheMahmalthat is taken on a camel from Egypt on the pilgrimage to Mecca, consists of a square box-like structure, about five feet square, surmounted by a pyramidal top, and is covered all over with richly embroidered black brocade. It is quite empty, being merely an emblem of royalty.
It has an interesting history. The Sultan, Es Saleh Nejm ed Din, owned a lovely female Turkish slave—Shagher ed Durr—who eventually became his favourite wife. When his last son died, the dynasty of the house of Aiyub, of which he was the last representative, came to an end. Shagher ed Durr then managed somehow to get herself acknowledged as Queen of Egypt; and in that capacity performed the pilgrimage to Mecca, borne on a camel back in a gorgeous covered litter. During the remainder of her reign, she sent this litter empty on the pilgrimage, as an emblem of her sovereignty. This custom of sending an empty litter with the pilgrims to Mecca has been kept up by the rulers of Egypt ever since.
A native doctor in Mut kindly supplied me with the following particulars. During the three years he was in the oasis, 1906-1908, there were 110 male children born in Mut and 106 female, the males consequently being in the proportion of 100 to 96.36 females. In the same period there were 76 male deaths to 70 female, the male deaths being in the proportion of 100 to 92.1 females.
The women appear to be very careless mothers, leaving the children very much to look after themselves. It is noticeable that swing cradles, such as are to be seen in some other parts of North Africa, are quite unheard of in Dakhla Oasis.
Crime, in its more serious forms, is very rare indeed. The chief misdemeanours are petty thefts of food, the result probably of extreme poverty. Squabbles about the irrigation water sometimes lead to assaults, but weapons are scarcely ever used. Illegitimate children are very numerous and are occasionally destroyed. A very large percentage of the women are immoral, but this, as a rule,is taken as a matter of course, and little jealousy results in consequence.
Albinos, epilepsy and deafness were said by one doctor to be unknown; but the man who followed him in office knew of one case of epilepsy at Qasr Dakhl.
There were one or two cases of insanity known in the oasis, and one instance of St. Vitus’ dance, in the case of a partial idiot.
There were said to be four or five cases of dumbness among the population of Mut.
There was only one case of phthisis—a man who had been for some time in the Nile Valley, but who had fallen ill on his return to Dakhla.
The commonest complaints were malaria, chronic bronchitis and emphysema, the last two being largely due, according to the native doctor, to weakness of the lungs caused by smokinghashishand in some cases opium. Bronchitis and bronchial pneumonia were also among the commonest complaints among children. Venereal cases, considering the character of the population, were extremely rare, the natives apparently being almost immune from them. Digestive troubles were extremely common, and were largely due to the extremely strong tea they consume at every opportunity.
As might be expected with such a primitive race as the natives of these oases, the remedies used in case of disease are sometimes rather curious. If a man, for instance, has an attack of fever, one of his friends will sometimes invite him to come for a walk, during the course of which he will lure him unsuspectingly to a pool of water and suddenly push him in. It is said that the nervous shock, combined with the sudden immersion in cold water, not infrequently effects a cure—but it sounds a drastic remedy.
Ophthalmia—a rather common complaint in these “islands of the blest”—due probably to dirt and the irritation to the eyes caused by the dust during the frequent sand storms, is treated by poultices formed of onions and salt, or of raw tomatoes; occasionally, too, a vegetable calledborselain, that I was unable to identify, is used pounded in the same way.
A plant called khobbayza[15]is sometimes pounded and applied as a poultice to a sting of a scorpion in Dakhla, and is said to give considerable relief. It is interesting to note that in the oases they say that the sting of a “thirsty” scorpion, i.e. one that lives far from water, is much more likely to prove fatal than the sting of one living near a well. It is possible that this may point to the existence of two different varieties.
The families in the oases are usually large, seven to eight children being, I was told, about the average. A childless woman, as is usual throughout the East, is much looked down on by her more fortunate sisters, and many expedients and charms are in use in order to remove the disgrace. It is only possible to mention one of them. Near Mut in Dakhla Oasis is a well, known as ’Ain el Masim, which runs into a small pool. A childless woman will repair there on Friday afternoon, taking with her agula—earthenware bottle used for cooling drinking water—filled with water taken from seven different wells. She throws small pieces of bread, grain, etc., into the pool and then bathes in it. On her emerging from her bath, a second woman, who accompanies her, smashes thegulaover her head. This is said to be a sovereign remedy.
Women also sometimes go to a disused cemetery to pray for children, or to a tomb of one of the local sheykhs and vowbakhshishto the sheykh in the event of their prayers taking effect.
During five visits to the western oasis, I never remember to have seen a single case of baldness. Perhaps this is due to the frequent shaving of the head having a strengthening effect upon the hair. But cases of premature greyness due perhaps to dirt and the excessive dryness and heat of the climate, seemed to be unusually common. It is possible that these may be racial characteristics.
There are some curious superstitions about the sand dunes in the oases. In both Kharga and Dakhla they say that there were no sand belts in the oases in Roman times, but that they have come down since from the north. In this they are probably correct, for remains—apparentlyof Roman origin—are to be seen in several places underneath the dune belt to the west of Kharga. A native, too, told me that he had once ridden for a long half-day on ahagin(riding camel) to the west from Dakhla Oasis, when, after passing extensive ruins among the dunes at several places on the way, he found some rock-cut tombs. I have heard reports of ruins in this direction from several people, and, though the size of them may have been exaggerated, have little doubt that they exist.
On the plateau to the north of Qasr Dakhl, there is said to be a place where the sand gives out a loud “bur-r-r-r-”ing sound when stroked, which can be heard for a long distance to the south. I have also heard that it gives out a musical sound when struck, so apparently it is a case of the ordinary “musical sands” that have been found in many parts of the world.
It is said that there used to be a Romantulsim(talisman) here that stopped the dunes from entering the Dakhla depression. The talisman in question may very possibly have been a wall, intended to stop the drifting of the sand, as remains of one, built of unmortared stone, are said to be still visible here.
In Kharga Oasis they say that the Romans had another talisman in the shape of a brass cow on the top of the scarp to the north of the depression that—until it was removed—swallowed up all the sand that was blowing into the oasis and kept the Kharga depression free from dunes.
In the neighbourhood of the village of Rashida in Dakhla Oasis, there is a large dead tree—asunt, or acacia, apparently—which is known as the “tree of Sheykh Adam,” and is supposed to possess a soul. The wood is reported to be uninflammable.
There is anothersunttree in Dakhla that has curious attributes attached to it, and possibly the superstitious views of the natives with regard to these trees may be a relic of some very old form of tree worship, such as exists at the present day, I believe, among the Bedayat of the south of the Libyan Desert.
This second tree is at Belat, and is known as the “Sunt’Abd en Nebi.” When a man in the oasis hears that an enemy of his has died, he exclaims “Kabrit wa Sunt el Belat”—“a match and the acacia of Belat”—meaning that he wishes he had a match and thesunttree of Belat to burn him with. Sometimes he will also say “Wa Jerid el Wa”—“and the palm leaves of the oasis”—meaning that he would like to add them to the fuel as well.
The agricultural appliances used in the oasis are naturally of a very primitive character. The whole of the cultivation, so far as I saw, was done with the ordinaryfas, or hoe, to be met with in the Nile Valley. In reaping and pruning a curious toothed sickle is used. The actual blade is pointed and almost at right angles to the iron shaft, the end of which is inserted into a wooden handle. Ploughs are, so far as I saw, never used.
FLOUR MILL, RASHIDA.
FLOUR MILL, RASHIDA.
FLOUR MILL, RASHIDA.
At Rashida I was shown a flour mill belonging to the’omdawhich was of a rather interesting type. The two stones between which the grain was ground were of unequal size—the upper one being considerably smaller than the lower. The bottom stone was hollowed out, and the upper one, rotated by an ox walking round and round in a circle, revolved in the recess in the lower stone, whichwas fixed in the ground. Suspended over the millstones, by a four-legged wooden frame, was a box in which the grain to be ground was poured, a tube from the bottom of the box delivering the grain to the junction between the upper and lower millstones. The flour was drawn off through a hole in the lower stone into a basket placed in a cutting in the ground in which this stone was embedded.
A large part of the grain consumed in the oases is not ground in a mill, but prepared by the women in a much more primitive manner—this is especially the case with rice, which is largely consumed by the poorest inhabitants. Basin-shaped hollows, about a foot in diameter, are roughly scooped in the rock, frequently by the roadside, the grain is placed in these and pounded to powder by means of a large stone wielded with both hands.
Rashida is one of the few villages in the oasis which grows any number of olives. These are cultivated in sufficient quantities to warrant the erection of appliances for extracting the oil.
The olives are first crushed in a mill, a somewhat primitive arrangement consisting of an enormous stone wheel, about five feet in diameter, by eighteen inches thick, which is made to travel on its edge round and round a circular trough about six feet in diameter, by a man pushing against a beam, revolving the vertical pivot to which it is attached.
The mass of crushed olives when taken out of the trough is placed in a bag and squeezed under a screw press, also worked by a man pushing a bar on the principle of a capstan, the oil as it oozes out being collected in earthenware pans, or rather basins, placed below the press.
Butter is made by shaking the cream in a skin bag. A stick about ten feet long with a fork at the top is leant against a wall, and a goat-skin full of cream suspended by a rope from the fork. This is swung to and fro with a jerky motion until the butter has formed.
Unlike the natives of Dakhla and Kharga, who have no pretensions to a sporting character, those of Farafra Oasis are keen hunters. While in that oasis I saw several most ingenious appliances for catching game.
The most interesting of these was a trap for catching gazelle. It consisted of a basketwork funnel, open at top and bottom. This was 7 inches long, 5½ in diameter at the top, tapering down to 2½ inches at the bottom. The trap is set at the foot of a bush where the gazelle are accustomed to feed. A hole is first excavated in the ground, and the funnel buried in this with the large end flush with the surface of the soil.
OLIVE MILL, RASHIDA.
OLIVE MILL, RASHIDA.
OLIVE MILL, RASHIDA.
Into its open end is fitted an arrangement like a hubless wheel, the rim of which is formed of plaited palm leaf, through which about thirty strong thorns from a datepalm, representing the spokes, are passed; the points of these meet together in the centre. Resting on this wheel is placed a noose, at the end of a cord, the other end of which is tied to a small log of wood.
The trap is concealed by covering it with asses’ manure; the rope is covered with sand.
On putting its foot on the wheel, the gazelle goes through it where the hub should be, its foot is then held by the thorns till the noose has had time to tighten round it. The wheel then generally falls off, but the log attached to the rope so hampers the gazelle’s movements that it can be easily run down and caught.
OLIVE PRESS, RASHIDA.
OLIVE PRESS, RASHIDA.
OLIVE PRESS, RASHIDA.
There were several traps for catching birds; these seemed to be chiefly set for quail. One consisted of a hole in the ground with a slab of rock or a large clod, supported in position to form a sort of lid by an arrangementof sticks, like the familiar trap made of four bricks used in England. A few grains of wheat seemed to be the usual bait.
There was also a very ingenious net trap. This consisted of two semicircular nets, about eight inches in diameter, A and B, which, when the trap was set, were at right angles to each other. The curved portion of the frames of these nets were ofjerid(mid ribs of the palm leaf), while the straight side of the semicircle was made of palm fibre rope. The framework thus formed was filled in with net, made of narrow strips from a palm leaf.
A long stick, C, held the two frames together, by passing underneath the frame, A, through the meshes of the net and through the rope of the frame, B, in such a way that, when B was raised at right angles to A, the rope became twisted sufficiently to cause B to fly back on to A when released, and so catch the bird between the two nets. B was held perpendicular by a stick, D, the lower end of which was pointed and fitted into a ring, E. The bait, F—a large yellow grub in the trap I saw—was tied to the ring. The upper end of D was tied back by a string, G, on to the end of C. A pull at the bait dragged down the ring, E, thus releasing D, and leaving B free to fly down on to A.
I saw many small boys in the oasis using a very primitive crossbow. The “stock” of this was simply a stoutjerid, near one end of which a large slot had been cut. The bow, anotherjerid, fitted loosely into this slot and was not secured to the “stock” in any way. When bent the string of the bow caught in a notch on the upper side of the “stock,” on the top of which the arrow was kept by being held between the finger and thumb of the left hand. The string was released from its notch by being pressed upwards by the first finger of the right hand.
When loading the camels the men nearly always struck up a chanty. I managed to get the words of a few of them. In some cases it is doubtful if they had any meaning, but, where they seemed to admit of a translation, I have inserted one as a suggestion. The men, for some reason, disliked being questioned about them, and I am not sure that I have always got the words quite correctly.
In loading, one man stood on each side of the kneeling camel, and they usually placed a portion of the baggage on his back in turns, singing a line of the chanty as they did so. The commonest chant was “Elli hoa li al li” (this is higher than that?). This they would go on singing over and over again till the loading was completed.
Another was in three lines, which they sang alternatelyad infinitum. It ran as follows:
Ya tekno niYa lobal liYa tawal li
Ya tekno niYa lobal liYa tawal li
Ya tekno niYa lobal liYa tawal li
Ya tekno ni
Ya lobal li
Ya tawal li
A more complicated chanty had five lines, which when finished was repeated. The first two lines were sung over twice by each of the two men, then the third line was repeated in the same way once, the fourth line was sung twice by each man. They then began with the first two lines again and repeated the whole process. The last line was only chanted once, by the man who added the last package to the load. The whole song ran as follows:
Ana wahdi(I am alone).Repeated twice by each man.
Wa Nawar hade(and I will teach you something).Repeated twice by each man.
Shufi jebbi di(Look! I bring you this).Once only by each man.
Ya ho debbi di(Oh! Ho! I pack this with it).Twice by each man.
Ma saffi an(Do not arrange any more for me).Once only as the last pack is put in place.
During the march the men often burst out singing, but on these occasions it was in a shrill falsetto and quite different from the loading chanties, which were in their normal tone of voice. I was never able to catch the wordsof any songs to the camels on the march, and the tunes, being in a different scale from that used in Europe, were still more baffling. Once or twice, however, during a long night march, I heard Abdulla, who was said by the men to have come from somewhere Abyssinia way, start crooning to himself a song, in what sounded like the European scale. It was a low, plaintive ditty that bore a faint resemblance to the old British song, “The Bailiff’s Daughter of Islington.” I tried to pick up the tune, but being distinctly “slow in the uptake,” where anything musical is concerned, I foolishly asked him to sing it over, so that I could get hold of it. But Abdulla was evidently very sensitive on the subject, and never sang again. Even to my European ears it was a distinctly pretty song, very different from the discordant squalling one usually hears from the Arabs.
The camel drivers’ singing is supposed to help their charges on their way, and does seem to have some effect in this direction—presumably because the beasts know from experience that, if the singing fails to take effect, it will be followed up by a whack from thekurbaj.
The Egyptians are a superstitious race, and the inhabitants of the oases are probably the most credulous of all Egyptians. I was able to learn a good deal about the native beliefs and occult practices from the Coptic doctor in Dakhla, Wissa—previously mentioned.
One day he got on to the subject of the Coptic priests, and, being a Copt himself, probably knew what he was talking about. He said that they were all very good astrologers, but were very cunning and would never own to knowing anything about the subject.
They work by means of the signs of the Zodiac, used in conjunction with tables. He himself had one of the tables, but was unable to use it, as he had not got the key. There are a number of these tables, each compiled by one of the great philosophers—Solomon, Socrates and so on, after whom it is called.
The tables and key are generally written in Coptic. By means of the key an answer to a question can be got from the table in rhyme, which he said is generally correct.His family owned an answer drawn up for his grandfather in which Arabi’s rebellion and the British occupation of Egypt were foretold—presumably in very vague terms.
Magic and clairvoyance were subjects in which he was deeply interested. At Qasr Dakhl he said there was a boy, about twenty-three years of age, who was much consulted by the natives of the oasis when they had lost anything, wanted information about treasure or wished to have the future foretold.
The boy had a familiar—a femaleafrit(spirit)—who sometimes appeared to him during the night. He always knew when she was coming, as he felt drowsy and stupid for a day or two beforehand. After her visit he remained in a clairvoyant state for some hours. He would let it be known beforehand that he was expecting a visit from hisafrita, and those who wanted information would then apply to him. When she arrived he would question her. Sometimes she replied verbally, but usually he saw or heard the answer to the question while in the clairvoyant condition following her visit. The doctor, who had seen the medium, said he judged him to be epileptic.
He told me the following extraordinary story, which I am sure he believed himself. He was once called in to see the wife of a famousSheykh el Afrit(magician) living near Cairo—at Zeitun. She complained to him that her husband neglected her in favour of his familiar spirit, a maleafrit, to whom he was always speaking. The doctor, when he saw the husband—an old Maghrabi Arab, called ’Abd ul Atif—began chaffing him about this, and asked him to foretell something that he wanted to know. ’Abd ul Atif promised to do so, if he would come round some day and bring a young boy with him. The doctor selected a boy that he knew, and took him round to the magician’s house. TheSheykh el Afritsat him down on a divan, and placed the boy on another facing him at some distance away. He then seated himself at the other end of the room, where he began banging the end of his staff in a rhythmic manner on the floor.
The boy almost at once began to get drowsy, and after about two minutes shrieked and fell to the ground. Thedoctor rushed across to examine him; found that he showed every sign of asphyxiation and thought that he was dying. But the magician assured him that he was in no danger, and told him to question the boy in any language that he liked. The doctor began to interrogate him in English—that he knew for certain that the boy was unable to speak. The boy replied in the same language, and the answers to the questions that he gave came true, except for some minor particulars. After this séance the boy was ill for a month, during which time he attended him!
Through the agency of the doctor, I was able to see a performance of themandal, or clairvoyance by means of a pool of ink, performed by the magician from Smint previously mentioned.[16]I suggested that we might get hold of him and make him do themandal, so he undertook to interview him and arrange it.
Soon after the magician and doctor came round to my house together. TheSheykh el Afritcarried a staff in one hand and a rosary in the other. He came up the stairs on to the housetop muttering what I presumed were incantations. He was a burly looking individual, with a large flabby face and small cunning eyes. He condescended to partake of some tea, and then we got down to business and I asked whether he would perform themandal.
He expressed his willingness to do so, and promised that he would go through the performance provided that there was a bright sun and no wind—conditions that he said were indispensable for a successful séance. He suggested that we should have a young boy brought round to meet him, to play the part of thetahdir, i.e. the one who gazes into the magic mirror.
The magician was at great pains to explain that he did not deal at all in black magic, though he said that he knew all about it.
We were anxious for him to start doing his magic art at once; but that he declared to be impossible, as he had not got the right kind of incense with him to use in thedawa(invocation). He told us that it was of the first importance that the correct sort should be used, as otherwise theGenii would get angry and might kill him, or even destroy the whole house. He explained that there were many kinds of perfume employed in magic, according to the nature of thedawa(invocation) for which they were intended.