CHAP.XVIII.

[Contents]CHAP.XVIII.A Tyger taken in the Camp—Fatal Rencounter of a Party with the Rebels, who killed several of the Troops, and forced the rest back—Description of a Planter of Surinam—Contagious Distempers—Suicide—Scene of primitive Nature.I have just mentioned that several officers kept poultry, numbers of which were now taken away every night by some unknown marauder; when a Captain Bolts (suspecting thecoati-mondi, orcrabbo-dago) made a trap of an empty wine-chest, only by supporting the lid with a stick fixed to a long cord, into which (having first secured all the other poultry) he put a couple of live fowls, the whole guarded by two negroes at some distance. They had not been many hours on their post, when hearing the fowls shriek, one negro pulled the rope, and the other ran to secure the invader by sitting on the lid: when this proved to be actually a young tyger, who would yet have cleared his way by beating against the box, but that it was immediately secured by strong ropes, and drawn along, with the prisoner in it, to the river; where, being held under water, he was drowned, under the most vigorous efforts, by beating against the chest to effect his escape. Captain Bolts ordered the skin to be taken off, which he kept in remembrance of so very strange a circumstance.The Count de Buffon asserts, that there are no tygers[49]in America, but animals much resembling them, which go by that name. I shall however describe them, from actual observation, as I found them, and leave the reader to determine whether they are tygers or not.The first and largest is that called thejaguarof Guiana. This animal, which has by some been represented as a despiseable little creature, not larger than a greyhound, is, on the contrary, very fierce, strong, and dangerous; some of them measuring, from the nose to the root of the tail, not less than six feet: and let us not forget the print of that enormous tyger’s foot, seen by myself in the sand, near Patamaca; though it may be allowed, that creature was of an extraordinary size, and the sand very loose.—Thejaguaris of a tawny orange colour, and the belly white; on the back it is spotted with longitudinal black bars; on the sides with irregular rings, light-coloured in the center; and all over the rest of the body, and the tail, the spots are smaller, and perfectly black: its shape is in every sense like that of the African tyger, and being all of the cat kind, they need no particular description; but their size and strength being so much greater than that little domestic animal, they devour a sheep, or a goat, with the same facility as a cat would kill a mouse or a rat; nay, cows and horses are not protected from their attacks, for these they frequently kill on the plantations; and though they cannot carry them off into the forest on account of their weight, they tear and mangle them in a dreadful manner, only for the sake of the blood, with[50]which this ferocious animal is never glutted. It has even happened that thejaguarhas carried off young negro women at work in the field, and too frequently their children. This contemptible animal, as it is called and misrepresented by some authors, will beat down a wild boar with a single stroke of its paw, and even seize by the throat the strongest stallion that ever was mounted in Guiana; while its savage nature, and thirst after blood, is such that it cannot be tamed: it will, on the contrary, bite the very hand that feeds it, and very often devours its own offspring; still this creature is not a match for theaboma-snake, which, when it comes within its reach, has the power of crushing it to a jelly in but few moments.The next is thecouguar, called in Surinam thered tyger.—This indeed may, with more propriety, be compared to a greyhound, for its shape, though not for its size; being much larger than the dog which it resembles in make, but it is not in general so large and heavy as thejaguar. The colour of this animal is a reddish brown; the breast and belly are a dirty white, with long hair, and not spotted; the tail an earthy colour, the extremity black; the head is small, the body thin, the limbs long, with tremendous whitish claws; the teeth are also very large, the eyes prominent, and sparkling like stars. This creature is equally ferocious with the former.The Jaguar, or Tiger of Terra-Firma.The Jaguar, or Tiger of Terra-Firma.The Tiger-Cat of Surinam.London, Published Decr. 2nd, 1793, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.Another of the same species is thetyger-cat, which is extremely beautiful. This animal is not much larger[51]than I have seen some cats in England: it is of a yellow colour, with small annotated black spots, which are white within; the belly is a light colour; the ears are black, with a white spot on each; the hair is smooth, and the skin is very much esteemed: the shape like that of thetyger. Thetyger-catis a very lively animal, with its eyes emitting flashes like lightning; but ferocious, mischievous, and untameable, like the rest of the kind.In Guiana is still another of this species, called theJaguaretta, of a blackish colour, with still blacker spots; but of this last I can say very little, having never seen one; and, indeed, the others but very seldom. Of thejaguarhowever, and thetyger-cat, I present the reader with a drawing. All these animals have long whiskers, like common cats; they sometimes climb trees, but generally lie in ambush under the verdure, whence they bound with uncommon agility on their helpless prey; which having murdered, they drink the blood warm, and never cease to tear and devour it till they are gorged; but when no longer animated by hunger they are cowardly, and may be put to flight by a common spaniel. Of fire also they are exceedingly afraid, which is the best guard to keep them at a distance, and as such, made use of every night by the Indians in Guiana. More than once it has been observed, that tygers had entered our camps for want of these precautions, but fortunately without committing any depredations.As I now seemed to be on a friendly intercourse[52]with Colonel Fourgeoud, I one day presented the old gentleman with a plan and bird’s-eye view of all the encampment of Magdenberg, which pleased him so much that he sent this (as he had done the first) to the Prince of Orange and the Duke of Brunswick, as a specimen of his military manœuvres, &c. This present had the desired effect; for I not only became one of his favourites, but, declaring his highest esteem for the Scots and English, he even promised to recommend me in particular at court. I was so satisfied with this change in his behaviour, that I now took the blame of all former animosity on myself. His attention, however, was suddenly attracted by affairs of more consequence; since, on the 14th of June, the news arrived that some rebel huts were discovered near the sea-side; that Captain Mayland had marched in quest of the enemy, with one hundred and forty men of the Society troops, and had actually discovered them; but in wading through a deep marsh, had been first attacked by the negroes, who had killed several of his people (among whom his nephew, a young volunteer), wounded more, and beaten back the whole detachment, after they had already passed the marsh, and were mounting fast on the opposite beach to storm the village. From this news it was evident, that our sable foes were not to be trifled with; and since they were thus discovered, orders were immediately issued for all the troops that were able to march to keep in readiness,viz.Fourgeoud’s[53]marines, the Society regiment, and my favourite rangers, who wanted no spur, and now could hardly be restrained till the others were prepared. These troops were to be assembled at a certain place of rendezvous, while also a detachment marched to La Rochelle to give information. In consequence of these orders all was activity and vigour in the camp, in hopes that this decisive stroke would end the war, and their misery together; and this, therefore, was the time to lead them on to a spirited attack; but, for reasons best known to himself, our commander delayed his movement till the 20th of August, which was above two months.In the mean time the disagreeable news arrived, that Captain Brant was almost dead with a violent illness at the Hope, which was at present the place where a number of the troops were quartered, though no better than a pest-house, by the inundations; and for the command at this place (as being one of his favourites) Fourgeoud now singled me out: declaring, that I might thank my sound constitution for bestowing on me this honour. From this conduct, I plainly discovered that all his friendship was entirely interested; and I felt my resentment involuntarily rekindled against him, for thus sending me to an inglorious death, when he had so fair an opportunity of employing me honourably on actual service.On my arrival at the Hope, my orders were to send poor Captain Brant not down to Paramaribo, but to Magdenberg. This young man, however, frustrated the tyrannical[54]command; for, justly suspecting it, he had set out with a tent-barge to town a few hours before I came, where he was no sooner carried to his lodgings than he expired, from the effects of a burning fever, and a broken heart. No man could be more regretted than Captain Brant; nor did Fourgeoud ever lose a better officer, or I a sincerer friend.This being the second commander dead in so short a time, I quietly took for my motto—Hodie tibi cras mihi.But I was happily mistaken, and continued still as well as ever I was in my life, following the advice of old Caramaca, and bathing twice a day in the river; while I despised shoes and stockings, as useless and unnecessary lumber.On the 20th of June, a few days after my arrival, I had the honour to receive a visit from the governor, Mr. Nepveu, on his return from his estate Appecappe to Paramaribo, with whom I condoled on the loss of his lady, who had died very lately; I also received daily visits from several planters, who complimented me with refreshments from their plantations: and here I had an excellent opportunity of acquainting myself with the customs and manner of living of these West-India nabobs.A planter in Surinam, when he lives on his estate, (which is but seldom, as they mostly prefer the society of Paramaribo) gets out of his hammock with the[55]rising sun,viz.about six o’clock in the morning, when he makes his appearance under the piazza of his house; where his coffee is ready waiting for him, which he generally takes with his pipe, instead of toast and butter; and there he is attended by half a dozen of the finest young slaves, both male and female, of the plantation, to serve him; at thissanctum-sanctorumhe is next accosted by his overseer, who regularly every morning attends at his levee, and having made his bows at several yards distance, with the most profound respect informs his Greatness what work was done the day before; what negroes deserted, died, fell sick, recovered, were bought or born; and, above all things, which of them neglected their work, affected sickness, or had been drunk or absent, &c.; the prisoners are generally present, being secured by the negro-drivers, and instantly tied up to the beams of the piazza, or a tree, without so much as being heard in their own defence; when the flogging begins, with men, women, or children, without exception. The instruments of torture on these occasions are long hempen whips, that cut round at every lash, and crack like pistol-shot; during which they alternately repeat, “Dankee, massera,” (Thank you, master). In the mean time he stalks up and down with his overseer, affecting not so much as to hear their cries, till they are sufficiently mangled, when they are untied, and ordered to return to their work, without so much as a dressing.This ceremony being over, the dressy negro (a black[56]surgeon) comes to make his report; who being dismissed with a hearty curse, forallowingany slaves to be sick, next makes her appearance a superannuated matron, with all the young negro children of the estate, over whom she is governess; these, being clean washed in the river, clap their hands, and cheer in chorus, when they are sent away to breakfast on a large platter of rice and plantains; and the levee ends with a low bow from the overseer, as it begun.His worship now saunters out in his morning dress, which consists of a pair of the finest Holland trowsers, white silk stockings, and red or yellow Morocco slippers; the neck of his shirt open, and nothing over it, a loose flowing night-gown of the finest India chintz excepted. On his head is a cotton night-cap, as thin as a cobweb, and over that an enormous beaver hat, that protects his meagre visage from the sun, which is already the colour of mahogany, while his whole carcase seldom weighs above eight or ten stone, being generally exhausted by the climate and dissipation. To give a more complete idea of this fine gentleman, I in the annexed plate present him to the reader with a pipe in his mouth, which almost every where accompanies him, and receiving a glass of Madeira wine and water, from a female quaderoon slave, to refresh him during his walk.A Surinam Planter in his Morning Dress.Blake Sculpt.A Surinam Planter in his Morning Dress.London, Published Decr. 2nd, 1793, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.Having loitered about his estate, or sometimes ridden on horseback to his fields, to view his increasing stores, he returns about eight o’clock, when, if he goes abroad, he dresses, but if not, remains just as he is. Should the[57]first take place, having only exchanged his trowsers for a pair of thin linen or silk breeches, he sits down, and holding out one foot after the other, like a horse going to be shod, a negro boy puts on his stockings and shoes, which he also buckles, while another dresses his hair, his wig, or shaves his chin, and a third is fanning him to keep off the musquitoes. Having now shifted, he puts on a thin coat and waistcoat, all white; when, under an umbrella, carried by a black boy, he is conducted to his barge, which is in waiting for him with six or eight oars, well provided with fruit, wine, water, and tobacco, by his overseer, who no sooner has seen him depart, than he resumes the command with all the usual insolence of office. But should this prince not mean to stir from his estate, he goes to breakfast about ten o’clock, for which a table is spread in the large hall, provided with a bacon ham, hung-beef, fowls, or pigeons broiled; plantains and sweet cassavas roasted; bread, butter, cheese, &c. with which he drinks strong beer, and a glass of Madeira, Rhenish, or Mozell wine, while the cringing overseer sits at the farther end, keeping his proper distance, both being served by the most beautiful slaves that can be selected;—and this is called breaking the poor gentleman’s fast.After this he takes a book, plays at chess or billiards, entertains himself with music, &c. till the heat of the day forces him to return into his cotton hammock to enjoy his meridian nap, which he could no more dispense with than a Spaniard with hissiesta, and in which he rocks to and[58]fro, like a performer on the slack-rope, till he falls asleep, without either bed or covering; and during which time he is fanned by a couple of his black attendants, to keep him cool, &c.About three o’clock he awakes by natural instinct, when having washed and perfumed himself, he sits down to dinner, attended as at breakfast by his deputy governor and sable pages, where nothing is wanting that the world can afford in a western climate, of meat, fowls, venison, fish, vegetables, fruits, &c. and the most exquisite wines are often squandered in profusion; after this a cup of strong coffee and a liqueur finish the repast. At six o’clock he is again waited on by his overseer, attended as in the morning by negro-drivers and prisoners, when the flogging once more having continued for some time, and the necessary orders being given for the next day’s work, the assembly is dismissed, and the evening spent with weak punch, sangaree, cards and tobacco.—His worship generally begins to yawn about ten or eleven o’clock, when he withdraws, and is undressed by his sooty pages. He then retires to rest, where he passes the night in the arms of one or other of his sable sultanas (for he always keeps a seraglio) till about six in the morning, when he again repairs to his piazza walk, where his pipe and coffee are waiting for him; and where, with the rising sun, he begins his round of dissipation, like a petty monarch, as capricious as he is despotic and despiseable.Such absolute power indeed, cannot fail to be peculiarly[59]delightful to a man, who, in all probability, was in his own country, Europe, a—nothing.But, in this colony, this is too frequently the case, where plantations are sold upon credit, and left (by the absent proprietor) to the appraisers, who, by selling cheap, have generally an understanding with the buyer.These are the planters who are the pest of the colony; such as the fine gentleman just described, who, while he lives at the above rate, pays nobody, under pretence of bad crops, mortality amongst the slaves, &c. but like an upstart rascal massacres the negroes by double labour, ruins and pillages the estate of all its productions, which he clandestinely sells for ready money, makes a purse, and runs away. Exceptions, however, take place in every circumstance of life; and I have known many planters in Surinam as good men as I ever would desire to be acquainted with, which I have already mentioned.As for the ladies, they indulge themselves just as much, by giving way to their unbounded passions, and especially to the most relentless barbarity. But while I can bear witness to the exalted virtues of such a woman as Mrs. Elizabeth Danforth, now Mrs.Godefroy, and a few more whose characters shine with treble lustre, I shall draw a veil over all the imperfections, too common to their sex in this climate. Before I drop this subject, however, I must attest, that hospitality is in no country practised with greater cordiality or with less ceremony, a stranger being every where at home, and finding his table and his bed[60]at whatever estate necessity or choice may occasion him to visit. This is the more to be regarded, as no inns are to be met with in the neighbourhood of any of the Surinam rivers.To vary the subject a little, I will now describe three kinds of fish, with which I occasionally entertained my friends. Thesun-fish, thesnake-fish, and thespotted-cat. The first frequents both the salt and fresh water, like the salmon: it is about eighteen or twenty inches long, shaped not unlike a kite; and being covered over with scales of a golden colour, when it swims in clear water darts forth very bright beams, from which it has derived its name of thesun-fish. Thesnake-fishtakes its name from its resemblance to that reptile: this is a black eel with a white belly, it is not large, and is very common in all the rivers. Thespotted-catis called so from its tabby colour, and long whiskers: this fish is formed not unlike apike, with very sharp teeth; it has no scales, it is extremely fat, weighing sometimes above seventy pounds, but its flesh is yellow, and not esteemed the most delicate food: however, here excellent fish is seldom wanting, such as thenew-mara,passessee,warappa,jackee, and many others already noticed. The Hope, with all this, was now truly a most shocking place of residence: here I much regretted my former cottage, and sweet companion, the one in ruins, the other at Paramaribo; while, at present, not a man was to be seen without an ague or fever, or some other wasting complaint. The dysentery[61]also began to make its appearance; and to add to our distress, we had neither surgeon, medicines, nor so much as a light, and very little bread left. I was moved with the situation of the troops, and again distributed all my biscuits, lemons, oranges, sugar, wine, ducks and fowls, amongst the unhappy sufferers, with a few spermaceti candles.On the 23d I sent up to the hospital at Magdenberg two sick officers,OrleighandFrancen, with all the privates that could bear to be transported; and, at the same time, I repeated my humble entreaties to be soon relieved from so very disagreeable a situation (for the confinement to which there was not the least necessity), and requested to be one of the party to march against the rebels, but to no purpose; while the accounts came from below that a fresh nest of negroes were discovered, even close to Paramaribo, and the news came from above that the troops there were daily dying away; amongst others, on the 22d, expired a Captain Seyburg, brother to the Colonel. This was actually the third captain who died within the space of one month.On the 26th two fine young officers arrived, unfit for service by ruptures, occasioned by the slippery state of the ground in the rainy season.This evening one of our marines named Spanknevel, was missing, and was not found till the 29th, when he was discovered suspended by a nebee to the branch of a tree. Not one of his comrades would cut him down, he[62]having hanged himself; alledging, that to touch him, according to their prejudices, (being Germans) would render them as infamous as himself. Wherefore, by my orders, he was taken down, and interred by the negroes.An order at last came for my relief, and I immediately set out for Goed-Accoord, in company with Captain Bolts; where the planter, Mr. de Lange, and his lady, received us with great hospitality. This sugar estate being the farthest that is cultivated in Rio Comewina, and consequently exposed to the neighbourhood of the rebel negroes, makes the slaves liable to their seductions; they are therefore treated with peculiar kindness and indulgence, to prevent their concurring in any insurrection, or being persuaded to leave their present situation.Here we saw a great novelty indeed, the young negro women waiting at the table all stark naked, as they came into the world. I was at first startled at the unusual appearance; and asking the cause, was modestly answered by the lady of the house, that it was ordered so by their mothers and matrons, to prevent (by such means of detection, said they) their too early intercourse with the males, and child-bearing, which would spoil their shapes, weaken their strength, and cramp their growth. Indeed finer made figures I never beheld than were both the men (witness Philander) and the women on this plantation, whose beautiful shapes, liveliness, strength, and activity, were inferior to no Europeans.Next day we departed for Magdenburg an hour before[63]sun-set, against the advice of Mr. and Mrs. de Lange, in a small barge, covered only with a loose awning. We had not rowed above two miles when not only night came on, but we were overtaken by such a shower of rain, as had nearly sunk us, the boat’s gunwale not being more than two inches above the water: however, by the help of our hats and calibashes, we kept her afloat, while a negro sat upon the bow, holding out a boat-hook straight before him to prevent us from being overset, by inadvertently running, in pitch darkness, against the roots ofmangroves, &c. which thickly lined both the banks of the river all the way upwards.In this state of wet and obscurity, at ten o’clock at night, we came to the Jacob, being just afloat and no more; for Bolts and I had no sooner leaped on the beach, than the boat sunk with all that was in her, the slaves luckily swimming ashore. Alas! amongst the wreck, was my poor box, with my journal, and all my paintings, which had cost me above two long years so much labour, care, and attention. I was truly distressed at this loss, when a skilful negro dived several times to the bottom, and at last brought up my little treasure, which, though thoroughly soaked, I was very happy to have again in my hands. Thus ended our shipwreck, when having drank some warm grog and slung our hammocks, we all fell asleep round a good fire, by which I made shift to dry myself, and, what was of more consequence, my papers.The following morning we again set out, and rowed for[64]Magdenberg, but about half-way our voyage was once more obstructed by an enormous tree which had accidentally fallen across the Creek, so that we could neither drag the boat over nor under it. Thus we were again obliged to return to the Jacob, whence we now proceeded to Magdenberg on foot, through thorns, roots, brambles, and briars, and where we finally arrived wet and bloody; and my ancle, which had been nearly well, fresh wounded to the bone, the skin and flesh being quite torn away by the numberless obstructions to our steps.Here we were acquainted that Mr. Orleigh, one of the two officers that I had sent up to Magdenberg from the Hope on the 23d, was no more. Thus died almost all our gentlemen, who had been during the last month upon the hopeless Hope, from which now scarcely one single private returned in health; and this, I am firmly of opinion, was greatly owing to the dry and burning month of June, when the sun suddenly scorched them, after marching and even sleeping in cold watery swamps, and constant heavy showers during the rainy season. However, I hitherto escaped by the strength of my constitution and good spirits, which I determined by every possible means to keep from depression, by laughing, whistling, singing, and (God forgive me!) sometimes swearing, while all the rest were sighing, bewailing, and dying around me.[65]

CHAP.XVIII.A Tyger taken in the Camp—Fatal Rencounter of a Party with the Rebels, who killed several of the Troops, and forced the rest back—Description of a Planter of Surinam—Contagious Distempers—Suicide—Scene of primitive Nature.

A Tyger taken in the Camp—Fatal Rencounter of a Party with the Rebels, who killed several of the Troops, and forced the rest back—Description of a Planter of Surinam—Contagious Distempers—Suicide—Scene of primitive Nature.

I have just mentioned that several officers kept poultry, numbers of which were now taken away every night by some unknown marauder; when a Captain Bolts (suspecting thecoati-mondi, orcrabbo-dago) made a trap of an empty wine-chest, only by supporting the lid with a stick fixed to a long cord, into which (having first secured all the other poultry) he put a couple of live fowls, the whole guarded by two negroes at some distance. They had not been many hours on their post, when hearing the fowls shriek, one negro pulled the rope, and the other ran to secure the invader by sitting on the lid: when this proved to be actually a young tyger, who would yet have cleared his way by beating against the box, but that it was immediately secured by strong ropes, and drawn along, with the prisoner in it, to the river; where, being held under water, he was drowned, under the most vigorous efforts, by beating against the chest to effect his escape. Captain Bolts ordered the skin to be taken off, which he kept in remembrance of so very strange a circumstance.The Count de Buffon asserts, that there are no tygers[49]in America, but animals much resembling them, which go by that name. I shall however describe them, from actual observation, as I found them, and leave the reader to determine whether they are tygers or not.The first and largest is that called thejaguarof Guiana. This animal, which has by some been represented as a despiseable little creature, not larger than a greyhound, is, on the contrary, very fierce, strong, and dangerous; some of them measuring, from the nose to the root of the tail, not less than six feet: and let us not forget the print of that enormous tyger’s foot, seen by myself in the sand, near Patamaca; though it may be allowed, that creature was of an extraordinary size, and the sand very loose.—Thejaguaris of a tawny orange colour, and the belly white; on the back it is spotted with longitudinal black bars; on the sides with irregular rings, light-coloured in the center; and all over the rest of the body, and the tail, the spots are smaller, and perfectly black: its shape is in every sense like that of the African tyger, and being all of the cat kind, they need no particular description; but their size and strength being so much greater than that little domestic animal, they devour a sheep, or a goat, with the same facility as a cat would kill a mouse or a rat; nay, cows and horses are not protected from their attacks, for these they frequently kill on the plantations; and though they cannot carry them off into the forest on account of their weight, they tear and mangle them in a dreadful manner, only for the sake of the blood, with[50]which this ferocious animal is never glutted. It has even happened that thejaguarhas carried off young negro women at work in the field, and too frequently their children. This contemptible animal, as it is called and misrepresented by some authors, will beat down a wild boar with a single stroke of its paw, and even seize by the throat the strongest stallion that ever was mounted in Guiana; while its savage nature, and thirst after blood, is such that it cannot be tamed: it will, on the contrary, bite the very hand that feeds it, and very often devours its own offspring; still this creature is not a match for theaboma-snake, which, when it comes within its reach, has the power of crushing it to a jelly in but few moments.The next is thecouguar, called in Surinam thered tyger.—This indeed may, with more propriety, be compared to a greyhound, for its shape, though not for its size; being much larger than the dog which it resembles in make, but it is not in general so large and heavy as thejaguar. The colour of this animal is a reddish brown; the breast and belly are a dirty white, with long hair, and not spotted; the tail an earthy colour, the extremity black; the head is small, the body thin, the limbs long, with tremendous whitish claws; the teeth are also very large, the eyes prominent, and sparkling like stars. This creature is equally ferocious with the former.The Jaguar, or Tiger of Terra-Firma.The Jaguar, or Tiger of Terra-Firma.The Tiger-Cat of Surinam.London, Published Decr. 2nd, 1793, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.Another of the same species is thetyger-cat, which is extremely beautiful. This animal is not much larger[51]than I have seen some cats in England: it is of a yellow colour, with small annotated black spots, which are white within; the belly is a light colour; the ears are black, with a white spot on each; the hair is smooth, and the skin is very much esteemed: the shape like that of thetyger. Thetyger-catis a very lively animal, with its eyes emitting flashes like lightning; but ferocious, mischievous, and untameable, like the rest of the kind.In Guiana is still another of this species, called theJaguaretta, of a blackish colour, with still blacker spots; but of this last I can say very little, having never seen one; and, indeed, the others but very seldom. Of thejaguarhowever, and thetyger-cat, I present the reader with a drawing. All these animals have long whiskers, like common cats; they sometimes climb trees, but generally lie in ambush under the verdure, whence they bound with uncommon agility on their helpless prey; which having murdered, they drink the blood warm, and never cease to tear and devour it till they are gorged; but when no longer animated by hunger they are cowardly, and may be put to flight by a common spaniel. Of fire also they are exceedingly afraid, which is the best guard to keep them at a distance, and as such, made use of every night by the Indians in Guiana. More than once it has been observed, that tygers had entered our camps for want of these precautions, but fortunately without committing any depredations.As I now seemed to be on a friendly intercourse[52]with Colonel Fourgeoud, I one day presented the old gentleman with a plan and bird’s-eye view of all the encampment of Magdenberg, which pleased him so much that he sent this (as he had done the first) to the Prince of Orange and the Duke of Brunswick, as a specimen of his military manœuvres, &c. This present had the desired effect; for I not only became one of his favourites, but, declaring his highest esteem for the Scots and English, he even promised to recommend me in particular at court. I was so satisfied with this change in his behaviour, that I now took the blame of all former animosity on myself. His attention, however, was suddenly attracted by affairs of more consequence; since, on the 14th of June, the news arrived that some rebel huts were discovered near the sea-side; that Captain Mayland had marched in quest of the enemy, with one hundred and forty men of the Society troops, and had actually discovered them; but in wading through a deep marsh, had been first attacked by the negroes, who had killed several of his people (among whom his nephew, a young volunteer), wounded more, and beaten back the whole detachment, after they had already passed the marsh, and were mounting fast on the opposite beach to storm the village. From this news it was evident, that our sable foes were not to be trifled with; and since they were thus discovered, orders were immediately issued for all the troops that were able to march to keep in readiness,viz.Fourgeoud’s[53]marines, the Society regiment, and my favourite rangers, who wanted no spur, and now could hardly be restrained till the others were prepared. These troops were to be assembled at a certain place of rendezvous, while also a detachment marched to La Rochelle to give information. In consequence of these orders all was activity and vigour in the camp, in hopes that this decisive stroke would end the war, and their misery together; and this, therefore, was the time to lead them on to a spirited attack; but, for reasons best known to himself, our commander delayed his movement till the 20th of August, which was above two months.In the mean time the disagreeable news arrived, that Captain Brant was almost dead with a violent illness at the Hope, which was at present the place where a number of the troops were quartered, though no better than a pest-house, by the inundations; and for the command at this place (as being one of his favourites) Fourgeoud now singled me out: declaring, that I might thank my sound constitution for bestowing on me this honour. From this conduct, I plainly discovered that all his friendship was entirely interested; and I felt my resentment involuntarily rekindled against him, for thus sending me to an inglorious death, when he had so fair an opportunity of employing me honourably on actual service.On my arrival at the Hope, my orders were to send poor Captain Brant not down to Paramaribo, but to Magdenberg. This young man, however, frustrated the tyrannical[54]command; for, justly suspecting it, he had set out with a tent-barge to town a few hours before I came, where he was no sooner carried to his lodgings than he expired, from the effects of a burning fever, and a broken heart. No man could be more regretted than Captain Brant; nor did Fourgeoud ever lose a better officer, or I a sincerer friend.This being the second commander dead in so short a time, I quietly took for my motto—Hodie tibi cras mihi.But I was happily mistaken, and continued still as well as ever I was in my life, following the advice of old Caramaca, and bathing twice a day in the river; while I despised shoes and stockings, as useless and unnecessary lumber.On the 20th of June, a few days after my arrival, I had the honour to receive a visit from the governor, Mr. Nepveu, on his return from his estate Appecappe to Paramaribo, with whom I condoled on the loss of his lady, who had died very lately; I also received daily visits from several planters, who complimented me with refreshments from their plantations: and here I had an excellent opportunity of acquainting myself with the customs and manner of living of these West-India nabobs.A planter in Surinam, when he lives on his estate, (which is but seldom, as they mostly prefer the society of Paramaribo) gets out of his hammock with the[55]rising sun,viz.about six o’clock in the morning, when he makes his appearance under the piazza of his house; where his coffee is ready waiting for him, which he generally takes with his pipe, instead of toast and butter; and there he is attended by half a dozen of the finest young slaves, both male and female, of the plantation, to serve him; at thissanctum-sanctorumhe is next accosted by his overseer, who regularly every morning attends at his levee, and having made his bows at several yards distance, with the most profound respect informs his Greatness what work was done the day before; what negroes deserted, died, fell sick, recovered, were bought or born; and, above all things, which of them neglected their work, affected sickness, or had been drunk or absent, &c.; the prisoners are generally present, being secured by the negro-drivers, and instantly tied up to the beams of the piazza, or a tree, without so much as being heard in their own defence; when the flogging begins, with men, women, or children, without exception. The instruments of torture on these occasions are long hempen whips, that cut round at every lash, and crack like pistol-shot; during which they alternately repeat, “Dankee, massera,” (Thank you, master). In the mean time he stalks up and down with his overseer, affecting not so much as to hear their cries, till they are sufficiently mangled, when they are untied, and ordered to return to their work, without so much as a dressing.This ceremony being over, the dressy negro (a black[56]surgeon) comes to make his report; who being dismissed with a hearty curse, forallowingany slaves to be sick, next makes her appearance a superannuated matron, with all the young negro children of the estate, over whom she is governess; these, being clean washed in the river, clap their hands, and cheer in chorus, when they are sent away to breakfast on a large platter of rice and plantains; and the levee ends with a low bow from the overseer, as it begun.His worship now saunters out in his morning dress, which consists of a pair of the finest Holland trowsers, white silk stockings, and red or yellow Morocco slippers; the neck of his shirt open, and nothing over it, a loose flowing night-gown of the finest India chintz excepted. On his head is a cotton night-cap, as thin as a cobweb, and over that an enormous beaver hat, that protects his meagre visage from the sun, which is already the colour of mahogany, while his whole carcase seldom weighs above eight or ten stone, being generally exhausted by the climate and dissipation. To give a more complete idea of this fine gentleman, I in the annexed plate present him to the reader with a pipe in his mouth, which almost every where accompanies him, and receiving a glass of Madeira wine and water, from a female quaderoon slave, to refresh him during his walk.A Surinam Planter in his Morning Dress.Blake Sculpt.A Surinam Planter in his Morning Dress.London, Published Decr. 2nd, 1793, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.Having loitered about his estate, or sometimes ridden on horseback to his fields, to view his increasing stores, he returns about eight o’clock, when, if he goes abroad, he dresses, but if not, remains just as he is. Should the[57]first take place, having only exchanged his trowsers for a pair of thin linen or silk breeches, he sits down, and holding out one foot after the other, like a horse going to be shod, a negro boy puts on his stockings and shoes, which he also buckles, while another dresses his hair, his wig, or shaves his chin, and a third is fanning him to keep off the musquitoes. Having now shifted, he puts on a thin coat and waistcoat, all white; when, under an umbrella, carried by a black boy, he is conducted to his barge, which is in waiting for him with six or eight oars, well provided with fruit, wine, water, and tobacco, by his overseer, who no sooner has seen him depart, than he resumes the command with all the usual insolence of office. But should this prince not mean to stir from his estate, he goes to breakfast about ten o’clock, for which a table is spread in the large hall, provided with a bacon ham, hung-beef, fowls, or pigeons broiled; plantains and sweet cassavas roasted; bread, butter, cheese, &c. with which he drinks strong beer, and a glass of Madeira, Rhenish, or Mozell wine, while the cringing overseer sits at the farther end, keeping his proper distance, both being served by the most beautiful slaves that can be selected;—and this is called breaking the poor gentleman’s fast.After this he takes a book, plays at chess or billiards, entertains himself with music, &c. till the heat of the day forces him to return into his cotton hammock to enjoy his meridian nap, which he could no more dispense with than a Spaniard with hissiesta, and in which he rocks to and[58]fro, like a performer on the slack-rope, till he falls asleep, without either bed or covering; and during which time he is fanned by a couple of his black attendants, to keep him cool, &c.About three o’clock he awakes by natural instinct, when having washed and perfumed himself, he sits down to dinner, attended as at breakfast by his deputy governor and sable pages, where nothing is wanting that the world can afford in a western climate, of meat, fowls, venison, fish, vegetables, fruits, &c. and the most exquisite wines are often squandered in profusion; after this a cup of strong coffee and a liqueur finish the repast. At six o’clock he is again waited on by his overseer, attended as in the morning by negro-drivers and prisoners, when the flogging once more having continued for some time, and the necessary orders being given for the next day’s work, the assembly is dismissed, and the evening spent with weak punch, sangaree, cards and tobacco.—His worship generally begins to yawn about ten or eleven o’clock, when he withdraws, and is undressed by his sooty pages. He then retires to rest, where he passes the night in the arms of one or other of his sable sultanas (for he always keeps a seraglio) till about six in the morning, when he again repairs to his piazza walk, where his pipe and coffee are waiting for him; and where, with the rising sun, he begins his round of dissipation, like a petty monarch, as capricious as he is despotic and despiseable.Such absolute power indeed, cannot fail to be peculiarly[59]delightful to a man, who, in all probability, was in his own country, Europe, a—nothing.But, in this colony, this is too frequently the case, where plantations are sold upon credit, and left (by the absent proprietor) to the appraisers, who, by selling cheap, have generally an understanding with the buyer.These are the planters who are the pest of the colony; such as the fine gentleman just described, who, while he lives at the above rate, pays nobody, under pretence of bad crops, mortality amongst the slaves, &c. but like an upstart rascal massacres the negroes by double labour, ruins and pillages the estate of all its productions, which he clandestinely sells for ready money, makes a purse, and runs away. Exceptions, however, take place in every circumstance of life; and I have known many planters in Surinam as good men as I ever would desire to be acquainted with, which I have already mentioned.As for the ladies, they indulge themselves just as much, by giving way to their unbounded passions, and especially to the most relentless barbarity. But while I can bear witness to the exalted virtues of such a woman as Mrs. Elizabeth Danforth, now Mrs.Godefroy, and a few more whose characters shine with treble lustre, I shall draw a veil over all the imperfections, too common to their sex in this climate. Before I drop this subject, however, I must attest, that hospitality is in no country practised with greater cordiality or with less ceremony, a stranger being every where at home, and finding his table and his bed[60]at whatever estate necessity or choice may occasion him to visit. This is the more to be regarded, as no inns are to be met with in the neighbourhood of any of the Surinam rivers.To vary the subject a little, I will now describe three kinds of fish, with which I occasionally entertained my friends. Thesun-fish, thesnake-fish, and thespotted-cat. The first frequents both the salt and fresh water, like the salmon: it is about eighteen or twenty inches long, shaped not unlike a kite; and being covered over with scales of a golden colour, when it swims in clear water darts forth very bright beams, from which it has derived its name of thesun-fish. Thesnake-fishtakes its name from its resemblance to that reptile: this is a black eel with a white belly, it is not large, and is very common in all the rivers. Thespotted-catis called so from its tabby colour, and long whiskers: this fish is formed not unlike apike, with very sharp teeth; it has no scales, it is extremely fat, weighing sometimes above seventy pounds, but its flesh is yellow, and not esteemed the most delicate food: however, here excellent fish is seldom wanting, such as thenew-mara,passessee,warappa,jackee, and many others already noticed. The Hope, with all this, was now truly a most shocking place of residence: here I much regretted my former cottage, and sweet companion, the one in ruins, the other at Paramaribo; while, at present, not a man was to be seen without an ague or fever, or some other wasting complaint. The dysentery[61]also began to make its appearance; and to add to our distress, we had neither surgeon, medicines, nor so much as a light, and very little bread left. I was moved with the situation of the troops, and again distributed all my biscuits, lemons, oranges, sugar, wine, ducks and fowls, amongst the unhappy sufferers, with a few spermaceti candles.On the 23d I sent up to the hospital at Magdenberg two sick officers,OrleighandFrancen, with all the privates that could bear to be transported; and, at the same time, I repeated my humble entreaties to be soon relieved from so very disagreeable a situation (for the confinement to which there was not the least necessity), and requested to be one of the party to march against the rebels, but to no purpose; while the accounts came from below that a fresh nest of negroes were discovered, even close to Paramaribo, and the news came from above that the troops there were daily dying away; amongst others, on the 22d, expired a Captain Seyburg, brother to the Colonel. This was actually the third captain who died within the space of one month.On the 26th two fine young officers arrived, unfit for service by ruptures, occasioned by the slippery state of the ground in the rainy season.This evening one of our marines named Spanknevel, was missing, and was not found till the 29th, when he was discovered suspended by a nebee to the branch of a tree. Not one of his comrades would cut him down, he[62]having hanged himself; alledging, that to touch him, according to their prejudices, (being Germans) would render them as infamous as himself. Wherefore, by my orders, he was taken down, and interred by the negroes.An order at last came for my relief, and I immediately set out for Goed-Accoord, in company with Captain Bolts; where the planter, Mr. de Lange, and his lady, received us with great hospitality. This sugar estate being the farthest that is cultivated in Rio Comewina, and consequently exposed to the neighbourhood of the rebel negroes, makes the slaves liable to their seductions; they are therefore treated with peculiar kindness and indulgence, to prevent their concurring in any insurrection, or being persuaded to leave their present situation.Here we saw a great novelty indeed, the young negro women waiting at the table all stark naked, as they came into the world. I was at first startled at the unusual appearance; and asking the cause, was modestly answered by the lady of the house, that it was ordered so by their mothers and matrons, to prevent (by such means of detection, said they) their too early intercourse with the males, and child-bearing, which would spoil their shapes, weaken their strength, and cramp their growth. Indeed finer made figures I never beheld than were both the men (witness Philander) and the women on this plantation, whose beautiful shapes, liveliness, strength, and activity, were inferior to no Europeans.Next day we departed for Magdenburg an hour before[63]sun-set, against the advice of Mr. and Mrs. de Lange, in a small barge, covered only with a loose awning. We had not rowed above two miles when not only night came on, but we were overtaken by such a shower of rain, as had nearly sunk us, the boat’s gunwale not being more than two inches above the water: however, by the help of our hats and calibashes, we kept her afloat, while a negro sat upon the bow, holding out a boat-hook straight before him to prevent us from being overset, by inadvertently running, in pitch darkness, against the roots ofmangroves, &c. which thickly lined both the banks of the river all the way upwards.In this state of wet and obscurity, at ten o’clock at night, we came to the Jacob, being just afloat and no more; for Bolts and I had no sooner leaped on the beach, than the boat sunk with all that was in her, the slaves luckily swimming ashore. Alas! amongst the wreck, was my poor box, with my journal, and all my paintings, which had cost me above two long years so much labour, care, and attention. I was truly distressed at this loss, when a skilful negro dived several times to the bottom, and at last brought up my little treasure, which, though thoroughly soaked, I was very happy to have again in my hands. Thus ended our shipwreck, when having drank some warm grog and slung our hammocks, we all fell asleep round a good fire, by which I made shift to dry myself, and, what was of more consequence, my papers.The following morning we again set out, and rowed for[64]Magdenberg, but about half-way our voyage was once more obstructed by an enormous tree which had accidentally fallen across the Creek, so that we could neither drag the boat over nor under it. Thus we were again obliged to return to the Jacob, whence we now proceeded to Magdenberg on foot, through thorns, roots, brambles, and briars, and where we finally arrived wet and bloody; and my ancle, which had been nearly well, fresh wounded to the bone, the skin and flesh being quite torn away by the numberless obstructions to our steps.Here we were acquainted that Mr. Orleigh, one of the two officers that I had sent up to Magdenberg from the Hope on the 23d, was no more. Thus died almost all our gentlemen, who had been during the last month upon the hopeless Hope, from which now scarcely one single private returned in health; and this, I am firmly of opinion, was greatly owing to the dry and burning month of June, when the sun suddenly scorched them, after marching and even sleeping in cold watery swamps, and constant heavy showers during the rainy season. However, I hitherto escaped by the strength of my constitution and good spirits, which I determined by every possible means to keep from depression, by laughing, whistling, singing, and (God forgive me!) sometimes swearing, while all the rest were sighing, bewailing, and dying around me.[65]

The Count de Buffon asserts, that there are no tygers[49]in America, but animals much resembling them, which go by that name. I shall however describe them, from actual observation, as I found them, and leave the reader to determine whether they are tygers or not.

The first and largest is that called thejaguarof Guiana. This animal, which has by some been represented as a despiseable little creature, not larger than a greyhound, is, on the contrary, very fierce, strong, and dangerous; some of them measuring, from the nose to the root of the tail, not less than six feet: and let us not forget the print of that enormous tyger’s foot, seen by myself in the sand, near Patamaca; though it may be allowed, that creature was of an extraordinary size, and the sand very loose.—Thejaguaris of a tawny orange colour, and the belly white; on the back it is spotted with longitudinal black bars; on the sides with irregular rings, light-coloured in the center; and all over the rest of the body, and the tail, the spots are smaller, and perfectly black: its shape is in every sense like that of the African tyger, and being all of the cat kind, they need no particular description; but their size and strength being so much greater than that little domestic animal, they devour a sheep, or a goat, with the same facility as a cat would kill a mouse or a rat; nay, cows and horses are not protected from their attacks, for these they frequently kill on the plantations; and though they cannot carry them off into the forest on account of their weight, they tear and mangle them in a dreadful manner, only for the sake of the blood, with[50]which this ferocious animal is never glutted. It has even happened that thejaguarhas carried off young negro women at work in the field, and too frequently their children. This contemptible animal, as it is called and misrepresented by some authors, will beat down a wild boar with a single stroke of its paw, and even seize by the throat the strongest stallion that ever was mounted in Guiana; while its savage nature, and thirst after blood, is such that it cannot be tamed: it will, on the contrary, bite the very hand that feeds it, and very often devours its own offspring; still this creature is not a match for theaboma-snake, which, when it comes within its reach, has the power of crushing it to a jelly in but few moments.

The next is thecouguar, called in Surinam thered tyger.—This indeed may, with more propriety, be compared to a greyhound, for its shape, though not for its size; being much larger than the dog which it resembles in make, but it is not in general so large and heavy as thejaguar. The colour of this animal is a reddish brown; the breast and belly are a dirty white, with long hair, and not spotted; the tail an earthy colour, the extremity black; the head is small, the body thin, the limbs long, with tremendous whitish claws; the teeth are also very large, the eyes prominent, and sparkling like stars. This creature is equally ferocious with the former.

The Jaguar, or Tiger of Terra-Firma.The Jaguar, or Tiger of Terra-Firma.The Tiger-Cat of Surinam.London, Published Decr. 2nd, 1793, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.

The Jaguar, or Tiger of Terra-Firma.

The Tiger-Cat of Surinam.

London, Published Decr. 2nd, 1793, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.

Another of the same species is thetyger-cat, which is extremely beautiful. This animal is not much larger[51]than I have seen some cats in England: it is of a yellow colour, with small annotated black spots, which are white within; the belly is a light colour; the ears are black, with a white spot on each; the hair is smooth, and the skin is very much esteemed: the shape like that of thetyger. Thetyger-catis a very lively animal, with its eyes emitting flashes like lightning; but ferocious, mischievous, and untameable, like the rest of the kind.

In Guiana is still another of this species, called theJaguaretta, of a blackish colour, with still blacker spots; but of this last I can say very little, having never seen one; and, indeed, the others but very seldom. Of thejaguarhowever, and thetyger-cat, I present the reader with a drawing. All these animals have long whiskers, like common cats; they sometimes climb trees, but generally lie in ambush under the verdure, whence they bound with uncommon agility on their helpless prey; which having murdered, they drink the blood warm, and never cease to tear and devour it till they are gorged; but when no longer animated by hunger they are cowardly, and may be put to flight by a common spaniel. Of fire also they are exceedingly afraid, which is the best guard to keep them at a distance, and as such, made use of every night by the Indians in Guiana. More than once it has been observed, that tygers had entered our camps for want of these precautions, but fortunately without committing any depredations.

As I now seemed to be on a friendly intercourse[52]with Colonel Fourgeoud, I one day presented the old gentleman with a plan and bird’s-eye view of all the encampment of Magdenberg, which pleased him so much that he sent this (as he had done the first) to the Prince of Orange and the Duke of Brunswick, as a specimen of his military manœuvres, &c. This present had the desired effect; for I not only became one of his favourites, but, declaring his highest esteem for the Scots and English, he even promised to recommend me in particular at court. I was so satisfied with this change in his behaviour, that I now took the blame of all former animosity on myself. His attention, however, was suddenly attracted by affairs of more consequence; since, on the 14th of June, the news arrived that some rebel huts were discovered near the sea-side; that Captain Mayland had marched in quest of the enemy, with one hundred and forty men of the Society troops, and had actually discovered them; but in wading through a deep marsh, had been first attacked by the negroes, who had killed several of his people (among whom his nephew, a young volunteer), wounded more, and beaten back the whole detachment, after they had already passed the marsh, and were mounting fast on the opposite beach to storm the village. From this news it was evident, that our sable foes were not to be trifled with; and since they were thus discovered, orders were immediately issued for all the troops that were able to march to keep in readiness,viz.Fourgeoud’s[53]marines, the Society regiment, and my favourite rangers, who wanted no spur, and now could hardly be restrained till the others were prepared. These troops were to be assembled at a certain place of rendezvous, while also a detachment marched to La Rochelle to give information. In consequence of these orders all was activity and vigour in the camp, in hopes that this decisive stroke would end the war, and their misery together; and this, therefore, was the time to lead them on to a spirited attack; but, for reasons best known to himself, our commander delayed his movement till the 20th of August, which was above two months.

In the mean time the disagreeable news arrived, that Captain Brant was almost dead with a violent illness at the Hope, which was at present the place where a number of the troops were quartered, though no better than a pest-house, by the inundations; and for the command at this place (as being one of his favourites) Fourgeoud now singled me out: declaring, that I might thank my sound constitution for bestowing on me this honour. From this conduct, I plainly discovered that all his friendship was entirely interested; and I felt my resentment involuntarily rekindled against him, for thus sending me to an inglorious death, when he had so fair an opportunity of employing me honourably on actual service.

On my arrival at the Hope, my orders were to send poor Captain Brant not down to Paramaribo, but to Magdenberg. This young man, however, frustrated the tyrannical[54]command; for, justly suspecting it, he had set out with a tent-barge to town a few hours before I came, where he was no sooner carried to his lodgings than he expired, from the effects of a burning fever, and a broken heart. No man could be more regretted than Captain Brant; nor did Fourgeoud ever lose a better officer, or I a sincerer friend.

This being the second commander dead in so short a time, I quietly took for my motto—

Hodie tibi cras mihi.

But I was happily mistaken, and continued still as well as ever I was in my life, following the advice of old Caramaca, and bathing twice a day in the river; while I despised shoes and stockings, as useless and unnecessary lumber.

On the 20th of June, a few days after my arrival, I had the honour to receive a visit from the governor, Mr. Nepveu, on his return from his estate Appecappe to Paramaribo, with whom I condoled on the loss of his lady, who had died very lately; I also received daily visits from several planters, who complimented me with refreshments from their plantations: and here I had an excellent opportunity of acquainting myself with the customs and manner of living of these West-India nabobs.

A planter in Surinam, when he lives on his estate, (which is but seldom, as they mostly prefer the society of Paramaribo) gets out of his hammock with the[55]rising sun,viz.about six o’clock in the morning, when he makes his appearance under the piazza of his house; where his coffee is ready waiting for him, which he generally takes with his pipe, instead of toast and butter; and there he is attended by half a dozen of the finest young slaves, both male and female, of the plantation, to serve him; at thissanctum-sanctorumhe is next accosted by his overseer, who regularly every morning attends at his levee, and having made his bows at several yards distance, with the most profound respect informs his Greatness what work was done the day before; what negroes deserted, died, fell sick, recovered, were bought or born; and, above all things, which of them neglected their work, affected sickness, or had been drunk or absent, &c.; the prisoners are generally present, being secured by the negro-drivers, and instantly tied up to the beams of the piazza, or a tree, without so much as being heard in their own defence; when the flogging begins, with men, women, or children, without exception. The instruments of torture on these occasions are long hempen whips, that cut round at every lash, and crack like pistol-shot; during which they alternately repeat, “Dankee, massera,” (Thank you, master). In the mean time he stalks up and down with his overseer, affecting not so much as to hear their cries, till they are sufficiently mangled, when they are untied, and ordered to return to their work, without so much as a dressing.

This ceremony being over, the dressy negro (a black[56]surgeon) comes to make his report; who being dismissed with a hearty curse, forallowingany slaves to be sick, next makes her appearance a superannuated matron, with all the young negro children of the estate, over whom she is governess; these, being clean washed in the river, clap their hands, and cheer in chorus, when they are sent away to breakfast on a large platter of rice and plantains; and the levee ends with a low bow from the overseer, as it begun.

His worship now saunters out in his morning dress, which consists of a pair of the finest Holland trowsers, white silk stockings, and red or yellow Morocco slippers; the neck of his shirt open, and nothing over it, a loose flowing night-gown of the finest India chintz excepted. On his head is a cotton night-cap, as thin as a cobweb, and over that an enormous beaver hat, that protects his meagre visage from the sun, which is already the colour of mahogany, while his whole carcase seldom weighs above eight or ten stone, being generally exhausted by the climate and dissipation. To give a more complete idea of this fine gentleman, I in the annexed plate present him to the reader with a pipe in his mouth, which almost every where accompanies him, and receiving a glass of Madeira wine and water, from a female quaderoon slave, to refresh him during his walk.

A Surinam Planter in his Morning Dress.Blake Sculpt.A Surinam Planter in his Morning Dress.London, Published Decr. 2nd, 1793, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.

Blake Sculpt.

A Surinam Planter in his Morning Dress.

London, Published Decr. 2nd, 1793, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.

Having loitered about his estate, or sometimes ridden on horseback to his fields, to view his increasing stores, he returns about eight o’clock, when, if he goes abroad, he dresses, but if not, remains just as he is. Should the[57]first take place, having only exchanged his trowsers for a pair of thin linen or silk breeches, he sits down, and holding out one foot after the other, like a horse going to be shod, a negro boy puts on his stockings and shoes, which he also buckles, while another dresses his hair, his wig, or shaves his chin, and a third is fanning him to keep off the musquitoes. Having now shifted, he puts on a thin coat and waistcoat, all white; when, under an umbrella, carried by a black boy, he is conducted to his barge, which is in waiting for him with six or eight oars, well provided with fruit, wine, water, and tobacco, by his overseer, who no sooner has seen him depart, than he resumes the command with all the usual insolence of office. But should this prince not mean to stir from his estate, he goes to breakfast about ten o’clock, for which a table is spread in the large hall, provided with a bacon ham, hung-beef, fowls, or pigeons broiled; plantains and sweet cassavas roasted; bread, butter, cheese, &c. with which he drinks strong beer, and a glass of Madeira, Rhenish, or Mozell wine, while the cringing overseer sits at the farther end, keeping his proper distance, both being served by the most beautiful slaves that can be selected;—and this is called breaking the poor gentleman’s fast.

After this he takes a book, plays at chess or billiards, entertains himself with music, &c. till the heat of the day forces him to return into his cotton hammock to enjoy his meridian nap, which he could no more dispense with than a Spaniard with hissiesta, and in which he rocks to and[58]fro, like a performer on the slack-rope, till he falls asleep, without either bed or covering; and during which time he is fanned by a couple of his black attendants, to keep him cool, &c.

About three o’clock he awakes by natural instinct, when having washed and perfumed himself, he sits down to dinner, attended as at breakfast by his deputy governor and sable pages, where nothing is wanting that the world can afford in a western climate, of meat, fowls, venison, fish, vegetables, fruits, &c. and the most exquisite wines are often squandered in profusion; after this a cup of strong coffee and a liqueur finish the repast. At six o’clock he is again waited on by his overseer, attended as in the morning by negro-drivers and prisoners, when the flogging once more having continued for some time, and the necessary orders being given for the next day’s work, the assembly is dismissed, and the evening spent with weak punch, sangaree, cards and tobacco.—His worship generally begins to yawn about ten or eleven o’clock, when he withdraws, and is undressed by his sooty pages. He then retires to rest, where he passes the night in the arms of one or other of his sable sultanas (for he always keeps a seraglio) till about six in the morning, when he again repairs to his piazza walk, where his pipe and coffee are waiting for him; and where, with the rising sun, he begins his round of dissipation, like a petty monarch, as capricious as he is despotic and despiseable.

Such absolute power indeed, cannot fail to be peculiarly[59]delightful to a man, who, in all probability, was in his own country, Europe, a—nothing.

But, in this colony, this is too frequently the case, where plantations are sold upon credit, and left (by the absent proprietor) to the appraisers, who, by selling cheap, have generally an understanding with the buyer.

These are the planters who are the pest of the colony; such as the fine gentleman just described, who, while he lives at the above rate, pays nobody, under pretence of bad crops, mortality amongst the slaves, &c. but like an upstart rascal massacres the negroes by double labour, ruins and pillages the estate of all its productions, which he clandestinely sells for ready money, makes a purse, and runs away. Exceptions, however, take place in every circumstance of life; and I have known many planters in Surinam as good men as I ever would desire to be acquainted with, which I have already mentioned.

As for the ladies, they indulge themselves just as much, by giving way to their unbounded passions, and especially to the most relentless barbarity. But while I can bear witness to the exalted virtues of such a woman as Mrs. Elizabeth Danforth, now Mrs.Godefroy, and a few more whose characters shine with treble lustre, I shall draw a veil over all the imperfections, too common to their sex in this climate. Before I drop this subject, however, I must attest, that hospitality is in no country practised with greater cordiality or with less ceremony, a stranger being every where at home, and finding his table and his bed[60]at whatever estate necessity or choice may occasion him to visit. This is the more to be regarded, as no inns are to be met with in the neighbourhood of any of the Surinam rivers.

To vary the subject a little, I will now describe three kinds of fish, with which I occasionally entertained my friends. Thesun-fish, thesnake-fish, and thespotted-cat. The first frequents both the salt and fresh water, like the salmon: it is about eighteen or twenty inches long, shaped not unlike a kite; and being covered over with scales of a golden colour, when it swims in clear water darts forth very bright beams, from which it has derived its name of thesun-fish. Thesnake-fishtakes its name from its resemblance to that reptile: this is a black eel with a white belly, it is not large, and is very common in all the rivers. Thespotted-catis called so from its tabby colour, and long whiskers: this fish is formed not unlike apike, with very sharp teeth; it has no scales, it is extremely fat, weighing sometimes above seventy pounds, but its flesh is yellow, and not esteemed the most delicate food: however, here excellent fish is seldom wanting, such as thenew-mara,passessee,warappa,jackee, and many others already noticed. The Hope, with all this, was now truly a most shocking place of residence: here I much regretted my former cottage, and sweet companion, the one in ruins, the other at Paramaribo; while, at present, not a man was to be seen without an ague or fever, or some other wasting complaint. The dysentery[61]also began to make its appearance; and to add to our distress, we had neither surgeon, medicines, nor so much as a light, and very little bread left. I was moved with the situation of the troops, and again distributed all my biscuits, lemons, oranges, sugar, wine, ducks and fowls, amongst the unhappy sufferers, with a few spermaceti candles.

On the 23d I sent up to the hospital at Magdenberg two sick officers,OrleighandFrancen, with all the privates that could bear to be transported; and, at the same time, I repeated my humble entreaties to be soon relieved from so very disagreeable a situation (for the confinement to which there was not the least necessity), and requested to be one of the party to march against the rebels, but to no purpose; while the accounts came from below that a fresh nest of negroes were discovered, even close to Paramaribo, and the news came from above that the troops there were daily dying away; amongst others, on the 22d, expired a Captain Seyburg, brother to the Colonel. This was actually the third captain who died within the space of one month.

On the 26th two fine young officers arrived, unfit for service by ruptures, occasioned by the slippery state of the ground in the rainy season.

This evening one of our marines named Spanknevel, was missing, and was not found till the 29th, when he was discovered suspended by a nebee to the branch of a tree. Not one of his comrades would cut him down, he[62]having hanged himself; alledging, that to touch him, according to their prejudices, (being Germans) would render them as infamous as himself. Wherefore, by my orders, he was taken down, and interred by the negroes.

An order at last came for my relief, and I immediately set out for Goed-Accoord, in company with Captain Bolts; where the planter, Mr. de Lange, and his lady, received us with great hospitality. This sugar estate being the farthest that is cultivated in Rio Comewina, and consequently exposed to the neighbourhood of the rebel negroes, makes the slaves liable to their seductions; they are therefore treated with peculiar kindness and indulgence, to prevent their concurring in any insurrection, or being persuaded to leave their present situation.

Here we saw a great novelty indeed, the young negro women waiting at the table all stark naked, as they came into the world. I was at first startled at the unusual appearance; and asking the cause, was modestly answered by the lady of the house, that it was ordered so by their mothers and matrons, to prevent (by such means of detection, said they) their too early intercourse with the males, and child-bearing, which would spoil their shapes, weaken their strength, and cramp their growth. Indeed finer made figures I never beheld than were both the men (witness Philander) and the women on this plantation, whose beautiful shapes, liveliness, strength, and activity, were inferior to no Europeans.

Next day we departed for Magdenburg an hour before[63]sun-set, against the advice of Mr. and Mrs. de Lange, in a small barge, covered only with a loose awning. We had not rowed above two miles when not only night came on, but we were overtaken by such a shower of rain, as had nearly sunk us, the boat’s gunwale not being more than two inches above the water: however, by the help of our hats and calibashes, we kept her afloat, while a negro sat upon the bow, holding out a boat-hook straight before him to prevent us from being overset, by inadvertently running, in pitch darkness, against the roots ofmangroves, &c. which thickly lined both the banks of the river all the way upwards.

In this state of wet and obscurity, at ten o’clock at night, we came to the Jacob, being just afloat and no more; for Bolts and I had no sooner leaped on the beach, than the boat sunk with all that was in her, the slaves luckily swimming ashore. Alas! amongst the wreck, was my poor box, with my journal, and all my paintings, which had cost me above two long years so much labour, care, and attention. I was truly distressed at this loss, when a skilful negro dived several times to the bottom, and at last brought up my little treasure, which, though thoroughly soaked, I was very happy to have again in my hands. Thus ended our shipwreck, when having drank some warm grog and slung our hammocks, we all fell asleep round a good fire, by which I made shift to dry myself, and, what was of more consequence, my papers.

The following morning we again set out, and rowed for[64]Magdenberg, but about half-way our voyage was once more obstructed by an enormous tree which had accidentally fallen across the Creek, so that we could neither drag the boat over nor under it. Thus we were again obliged to return to the Jacob, whence we now proceeded to Magdenberg on foot, through thorns, roots, brambles, and briars, and where we finally arrived wet and bloody; and my ancle, which had been nearly well, fresh wounded to the bone, the skin and flesh being quite torn away by the numberless obstructions to our steps.

Here we were acquainted that Mr. Orleigh, one of the two officers that I had sent up to Magdenberg from the Hope on the 23d, was no more. Thus died almost all our gentlemen, who had been during the last month upon the hopeless Hope, from which now scarcely one single private returned in health; and this, I am firmly of opinion, was greatly owing to the dry and burning month of June, when the sun suddenly scorched them, after marching and even sleeping in cold watery swamps, and constant heavy showers during the rainy season. However, I hitherto escaped by the strength of my constitution and good spirits, which I determined by every possible means to keep from depression, by laughing, whistling, singing, and (God forgive me!) sometimes swearing, while all the rest were sighing, bewailing, and dying around me.[65]

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