CHAP.XXIII.

[Contents]CHAP.XXIII.Second march to Gado-Saby—Account of a living Skeleton—Beautiful Landscapes—The Commander in Chief falls sick, and leaves the Camp—Some Rebels taken—Discourse on the Existence of Mermaids—Heavy Rains—Disease—Famine—Misery.On the 9th of October, 1775, Colonel Fourgeoud broke up the encampment at the Wana Creek to join us at Jerusalem, having sent down the half of his party sick in barges; and their number being greatly augmented by the invalids from this place, they were all together transported to receive thecoup-de-gracein the hospital at Devil’s Harwar. The rangers also took their leave, and marched, with Mr. Vinsack their conductor, to guard the Pirica River.Fourgeoud, during his last cruize, had discovered a hundred empty houses, and seen some straggling rebels, but he had taken none. He had also found a scalp fixed to the branch of a tree, which we justly conjectured to be the remains of the unfortunateSchmidt, who was lost1.On the 13th my black boy, Quaco, being perfectly recovered,[161]arrived, to my great satisfaction, as his fidelity to me was so steady and unshaken. At the same time we received an account that Captain Stoelman, with some rangers, had discovered a fresh settlement of the rebels by a great smoke appearing at a distance in the forest, but had not yet attacked them; that Captain Fredericy, with a party of black volunteers, was scouring the sea-side below Paramaribo; that the two men we had lost on the 18th of August had miraculously escaped, and found their way to the post at the river Marawina; and that no less than twelve fine negro slaves had just deserted from theGold Mineestate to join the rebels.This news so much exasperated Colonel Fourgeoud, that the indefatigable man again determined to persevere in pursuing his enemies. We accordingly entered the woods very early on the morning of the 15th, although he and his little army were at this time greatly reduced. He buried but the evening before one of his countrymen, a volunteer, calledMatthew, and brother to the ensign: but death was now become so familiar to us, that upon losing a friend or relation, the first question generally was, “Has he left any brandy, rum, or tobacco?”—“Pauvre Laurant!” said I, to his shrivelled valet-de-chambre, “the brave Fourgeoud is like fire; he is to the colony an excellent servant indeed; but I think to both you and myself but a roughish master.” The poor fellow, shrugging up his shoulders, replied, with a grin and a heavy sigh, “Oui, par ma foi!” and then treated[162]me with a pinch of his snuff. I must not omit that, a little before our departure, seven more of our negro slaves did desert us, who went home to their masters perfectly broken-hearted, emaciated, and nearly starved; however, we proceeded, and marched directly N. E. during which nothing happened, except my box with all my bottles being dashed to pieces; and in the evening we encamped, thoughthenunknown to us, near the Cassipore Creek, where the dry season having commenced, we dug a pit for water. Orders were also issued to the troops no more to build huts, sheds, &c. as the rains were now less violent.On the 16th we continued our route, marching N. E. as before, and towards the evening arrived at the houses which Colonel Fourgeoud had lately discovered, which proved since to be only a temporary settlement, erected by the rebels as a shelter or asylum in their expected retreat, before they were dislodged from Gado-Saby; and to this little settlement they had given the name ofBoossy Cry, that is, “the woods lament.” Here we encamped, and took much notice of Bonny’s house in particular, which was built like a watering machine, being elevated from the ground, with two doors, so that he might the better observe all around him, and prevent his being taken by surprize; it also had more air, and, of course, was better calculated for his health, he having in some late action received a very dangerous wound in the groin, as we afterwards learned from a rebel negro prisoner. Near to[163]Bonny’s house were the private baths, where his women washed themselves morning and evening, there being no river near this settlement.In this encampment one of our slaves presented me with aland-turtle, which indeed we had met with several times before; but as I have never described this animal, I will now endeavour to give some account of it.—The land-turtle of Surinam is not more than eighteen or twenty inches in length, and of an oval form; the shell is more convex than that of the sea-turtle, and marked with thirteen elevated hexangular shields, dark brown and yellow, so hard that it will bear almost any weight without breaking; the under shell is a little concave, and of a light yellow: the head of this animal resembles that of other turtles; the tail is naked and short, but instead of fins or swimmers it has four feet covered with scales, and armed with sharp claws to assist it in crawling over the ground. When this poor creature sees any danger, it instantly shrinks within its shell. In this situation the Indians put it on the fire, where they broil it until it is drest, which is known by the under shell separating from the upper, which serves for a dish to hold the contents. A less barbarous way, and the way which I always followed, is only to provoke the animal by the heat of the embers to run away; when stretching out its head and neck, they are easily chopped off, and the food extracted without additional torture. I have known Mr. de Graaf keep three or four of these land-turtles for above four[164]months for transportation, during which time they lived without any apparent nourishment whatever, yet still remained vigorous, and even prone to copulation.Another kind of land-turtle, called here thearlacacca, I have often seen; this is less in circumference, very flat, of a disagreeable greenish colour, and nothing like so good as the former.On the 17th we continued our march N. and N. E. in hopes of more discoveries, but without success. We this day passed some ant-hillocks above six feet high, and, without exaggeration, above one hundred feet in circumference. We also saw great quantities of valuable timber, and, among the rest, theblack-cabbagetree, the wood of which is of a deep brown, and is in high estimation among carpenters and joiners. Thesand-bookertree was like-wise shewn me, which receives its name from the fruit, which being divested of its seed, is used as a sand-box by writers. It is of the shape of a large onion, with small holes in the surface; the seed is both laxative and emetic, but the juice of the pulp is a fatal poison. More than this I cannot say, having had neither the time nor the power of examining it with the accuracy of a professed botanist.On the 18th we continued the same course for a few hours longer, when we found a beaten path, which, though circuitous, seemed to be a communication between Gado-Saby and Boossy-Cry. We followed this path, which led us due W. for a few hours, when a poor[165]rebel negro was found by me covered with branches of the manicole-tree, and indeed barely alive, being in appearance nothing but skin and bone, with one of his eyes almost beaten out of the socket. I put my bottle to his mouth, he swallowed a few drops of rum and water, and said with a faint voice, which we could scarcely hear, “Dank ye, me Massera!” but could articulate nothing more. Fourgeoud ordered this man to be carried with us in a hammock; and we soon afterwards encamped near a biree-biree swamp or quagmire. I ought not to forget that this day we saw some very finelocust-trees, being eighty or a hundred feet high, and prodigiously thick; the trunk is grey and very straight, with no branches till near the top, on which the leaves are disposed two to each stem: this is justly called the king of the forest, for a finer tree cannot be found. The timber is of a beautiful cinnamon-colour, and possesses everydesirablequality of gravity, polish, grain, and durability.—But what particularly attracted our notice was its seed, like beans, three or four in number, enclosed in a broad light-brown pod, that lay flattered in quantities at the root of the tree, upon the ground, and tasted like some kinds of gingerbread. From the root of this tree a gum exudes, which, properly prepared, affords a varnish hitherto unequalled for transparency and effect.Innumerable indeed are the various fine trees that this country produces, and which may be had for the cutting; yet, when we consider the distance they usually grow from navigable rivers, the great labour in felling and[166]working them, the vast number of slaves required to drag them through the forest, where no horses can be employed, besides the danger and loss of time, we may easily account for the enormous price generally paid for the best timber in Guiana.This march undoubtedly afforded us the most enchanting prospects that can be imagined, in a luxuriant and ever-green forest, while the dry season contributed greatly to beautify the scene; and simple nature by far outshone the most strenuous endeavours of art. Here we met with immense savannas of the most lovely verdure, interspersed with meandring brooks of water, cool and clear as rock crystal; their borders adorned with flowers of every lively hue and fragrance. In some places we observed small clumps of elegant shrubs, or perhaps a single tree, whose beauty would almost induce one to think they had been designedly left growing to enrich the scene. The whole surrounded by a vast wood of lofty palm-trees, waving their sea-green foliage above the variegated copse of never-fading verdure, blossom, and fruit, as if to invite the panting wanderer under its cooling shade, till in the later hours he might enjoy the bracing pleasures of the limpid flood, and contemplate nature’s beauties undisturbed.—When universal silence reigned every where around, how often have I thought on mydear friend, and wished with her to glide through life in these Elysian fields!—But I must wave the pleasing recollection.On the 19th we again marched, and fell in with our[167]old path, which we followed, leading directly to the fields of Gado-Saby, where quantities of rice once more appeared in full bloom, which we cut down and burned to ashes. Here, perceiving the poor rebel negro hopeless of recovery, not absolutely to bury him alive, he was overspread with moss, leaves, and green boughs; after which we slung our hammocks, being almost choaked with smoke.In these fields I saw a lizard above two feet long, which the negro slaves killed and ate: they called itsapagala, it was of a brownish green colour, but did not resemble the iguana. Among the ruins of the consumed town we discovered somescolopendras, or centipedes, no less than eight or ten inches in length; this odious reptile is of a yellowish-brown colour, walks very fast backwards or forwards, and bites so severely, that the venom it infuses, though not deemed fatal, generally produces a fever. Some writers assign this reptile twenty pair of legs, others forty; I never reckoned them, and can only observe, that they appeared to me exactly to resemble the centipedes in Europe. Some of our gentlemen formed large collections of these curiosities, which were very valuable, whilst I contented myself with the drawings and descriptions only of those I thought most uncommon.On the 20th, we marched to visitCofaay, when I perceiving the unhappy negro captive still alive; after removing the branches, he was, at my earnest intercession, once more carried along with us; but the slaves, being[168]discontented with such a load, took every opportunity, in my absence, of torturing him, by knocking him against roots and stones, and dragging him through mud and water as they went along. Different patroles were now ordered out to reconnoitre the grounds, while the remainder of the troops encamped in thewestpart of Cofaay; and these patroles discovered no less than four beautiful fields in one chain, situated due west from Cofaay, well stocked with cassava, yams, plantains, pistachio nuts, with maize and pigeon peas: also were seen several human carcases, the relicts of our late engagements in August. We found here a species ofmedlarsof a crimson colour, and of a taste very much like that of strawberries. This fruit grows on a large green shrub, and is cultivated in many gardens at Paramaribo. We also met with a kind of wild plum-tree calledmonpe: the fruit is yellow, oblong, and small; the stone is large, the pulp thin, and though of a sharp acid has an agreeable flavour.On the morning of the 21st, all these and every useful vegetable were cut down, and again destroyed by fire; after which, returning to our last night’s camp, we found it also in flames, and were obliged to sling our hammocks in theeastskirts of the woods. Here, recollecting that the poor disabled rebel was left alone, I ran backwestto the burning camp to afford him assistance; but after seeking him in vain through clouds of smoke and darkness, I was forced to consult my own safety, by hastily returning[169]to my companions; some blaming me much for my temerity, others damning theskeleton, whether dead or alive.The devastation being now compleated, we marched back to Jerusalem, where on the 24th we arrived perfectly exhausted, and Fourgeoud at last so ill with a phrenzy fever, that he was confined to his hammock, with small hopes of surviving the night. But he however still continued to command, and the next morning ordered a marine to be bastonaded, for asking shoes, although he was bare-footed, and his feet tore to pieces; while another was flogged for coughing, who had a severe cold; a captain was dismissed from actual service, and confined in Fort Zealandia, for having dared to marry without his consent.—Sickness and death now raged through the camp, and every thing was in the utmost confusion.To compleat the whole, on the 1st of November, twenty-five more negro slaves ran away; and on the 3d we received intelligence that no less than fifty armed rebels had been seen swimming across the River Cottica, about a musket-shot above Barbacoeba.In consequence of this information, Colonel Seyburg was detached, with the few men that remained able to carry arms, who through distress and famine were now almost ready to attack their own officers; and who being unsupplied with their favourite luxury, tobacco2, sat[170]smoking grey paper, and chewing leaves and leather as a substitute for the want of it. Few men, however, were worse off than I was at this time; since, having neither provisions nor cloaths, I was almost naked as well as starved, with a running ulcer in my left foot, ever since the ambuscade and march to Pirica; nor had I a friend in the camp who could give me the smallest assistance. To compleat my misery, the little blood I had remaining was intwosuccessive nights again nearly sucked away by the vampire-bat, or spectre: thus I fainted away in my hammock, and was almost sorry to recover, particularly upon being informed by a letter that Joanna and her boy were dying with a putrid fever at Paramaribo.At last, on the 12th, Serjeant Fowler arrived fromMocha, withoneof my boxes; when this poor fellow, notwithstanding my situation, made me laugh aloud by producing a letter from his mother in Europe, which made him extremely happy; and which I must beg leaveverbatimto transcribe.“Dair Shonny,“I have relaved your girl from the Bridevail—and your shits from the panbroker—the baby is died—blessed be Goat, while I hop yow be living. I am your laffing mother tell death,Maggy Fowler.”The same evening Colonel Seyburg’s party returned, without having obtained any further intelligence.On the 14th Colonel Fourgeoud was so dangerously[171]ill, that he at length was obliged to relinquish his command, and proceed to town for his recovery. Accordingly on the 15th, he set out by water for Paramaribo: thus, after having sacrificed all his troops, he became himself finally a victim to his unbounded ambition and obstinate perseverance in this worst of all climates, while by toiling less and living better both he and his soldiers might have rendered the colony, if not superior, at least an equal service.—A barge loaded with sick and dying was at the same time once more sent to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar.The command of the remaining scarecrows now devolved upon the Lieutenant Colonel, who (strange to tell!) that very evening inherited thesamedistemper, as well as the chief command; the barge that rowed off the old hero having but just disappeared, when this gentleman was attacked also by the phrenzy fever; the above complaint was indeed at this time very common amongst all ranks and degrees who were broiling under a burning sun at Jerusalem; it being the dry season, when we ought to have been in the woods—but for those expeditions, as I have stated before, the rainy seasons were most unhappily preferred. Several officers would have before now thrown up their military commissions, could they with decency have taken such a measure, during an expedition on actual service; nor, in my opinion, ought such to be granted, cases of the very greatest necessity excepted. I could myself have wished to go for some time to Paramaribo,[172]but as this favour was not offered me, while all the others, and even the slaves, were relieved, I scorned to petition for it while I was able to stand.On the 19th, however, my foot became so bad, that the surgeon reported me unfit for duty; yet I still remained in the camp, where I could be to none of any service.A supply of fresh troops, slaves, and provisions being arrived on the 20th, Major Medlar, with 150 men, was detached to make new discoveries.Among other plagues, the whole camp at this time swarmed withlocusts, which appeared every where in most formidable troops, devouring every thing that lay in their way. Indeed the curse of Heaven seemed to visit us here in various shapes, and every vermin were so plenty at this time, that no exertion could keep us perfectly free. These locusts were brown, two inches in length, and shaped like a grasshopper; they did not fly, but crawled by millions on the very tables and seats as we sat at dinner, and at night they tormented us by crawling over our faces by scores.The only desirable article we found at Jerusalem was fish, of which we seldom wanted plenty, particularlynewmaraandwarrappa, also thepatakee, and theold wifee, both very excellent; the former of which is about two feet long, shaped like a whiting, the other is the size of a large perch. A kind of needle-fish, callednaaynaay-fisee, was found here in great abundance, these were very thin, and about one foot in length; also a kind of[173]dung-fish, about the size of a small herring, but these two last were only used by the negroes.On the 3d of December, Major Medlar’s party returned, after fourteen days absence, with a captive rebel woman and her boy about eight years old, taken in a small field of bitter cassava. The poor woman was pregnant, and under great alarms, but was tenderly treated by Medlar, who was always a humane and well-disposed gentleman. He had, however, unluckily lost two of his best men, oneSchoelar, a corporal, the other calledPhilip Van den Bos, a private marine, who having inadvertently eaten a few roots of the abovebitter cassavawere poisoned, and died during the same night with the most excruciating pain and convulsions: the antidote is said to be Cayenne pepper and spirits, neither of which were at that time to be procured.The black woman confirmed the account that Bonny had been wounded; she also told us the poor starved negro we had found was calledIsaac, and had been left for dead. That one CaptainAricohad formed a new settlement near the sea, calledFissy-Hollo; while Bonny, she assured us, maintained the strictest discipline amongst his troops: he was, she said, absolutely despotic, and had executed two of his men but three days before we took Gado-Saby,viz.during the night of the 17th August, when we heard the firing and shouting, only upon suspicion of having hinted some few words in favour of the Europeans, and were the heads which we found stuck[174]on the stakes. She further assured us, that none of his people were trusted with arms, until they had first served him some years as slaves, and given him unquestionable proofs of fidelity and resolution. But these, she observed, were but few in number, when compared to his numerous vassals, who were bound to do without murmuring whatever he thought proper to command them; yet that hestillwas more beloved than he was feared, on account of his inflexible justice and manly courage.On the 4th December, this poor woman and her boy were sent to Paramaribo, with EnsigndeCabanus, who had taken them: he had at the same time nearly seized a young girl about fifteen, who by her great agility, and being stark naked, slipped out of his hands:——“Fugit ocior aurâIlla levi: neque ad hæc revocantis verba resistit:Nympha, precor, Peneia, mane: non insequor hostis.Nympha, mane.”——Ovid.It being proved at the court that the above woman had been forcibly carried off by the rebels, though many years before, the poor creature was pardoned, and joyfully returned with her child to her master’s plantation. It is remarkable, that when the boy saw the first cow or horse he almost fell into convulsions with terror; nor could he bear to be touched by any white person, whom[175]he never had seen before, and whom he constantly calledYorica, which in his language signifies the devil.About this time a dead sea-cow, ormanatee, by the French calledLamantin, floating past Jerusalem, the negro slaves fell upon it, like so many crows upon a carrion, swimming round it, some with a rusty knife, some with a bill-hook, and each carrying off a slice for his dinner; at last they dragged the stinking animal on shore, of which I instantly took a drawing. This manatee was exactly sixteen feet long, almost shapeless, being an enormous lump of fat, tapering backwards to a fleshy, broad, horizontal tail. It had a thick round head, a flattish snout, large nostrils, with strong bristles both on its nose and chin, small eyes, and auditory holes instead of ears. Instead of feet, it had two excrescences or fleshy fins, like those of the sea-turtle, projecting near its head; with these it swims, and moves awkwardly to eat the grass on the banks of the rivers, being an amphibious animal. The colour was a greenish black; the skin was hard and uneven, covered with large knobs, circular wrinkles, and with a very few stiff hairs thinly scattered. It had grinders but no fore-teeth, and a very short tongue. The sea-cow or manatee is, like the whale, a viviparous animal, the female suckling its young by the help of its swimmers. They are very numerous in the river Amazons; their flesh, it is said, resembles veal, and is very good food. This was, however, too far advanced in a state of putridity, for me to taste it. It had the marks of being[176]twice shot, which must have been by the rebels on the 27th, when we heard the report of two muskets at a distance.As I am once more on the subject of natural history, I shall describe another amphibious animal, called thetapira, which bears some distant resemblance to the hippopotamus of the old continent, but it is a great deal less. This creature is about the size of a small ass, but much more clumsy. The head is not unlike that of a horse, but the upper lip much longer, projecting something like the proboscis of an elephant, and is also moveable, but too short to be of use, as is the trunk of that animal; the ears are short, the tusks strong, and sometimes visible, the mane is bristly and erect, the limbs are low and strong, with a kind of hoof divided into four claws, and the tail is thick and short, like that of the elephant. The skin of this creature is excessively thick, of a brown colour, and when young it is marked with white spots, like those of the stag or paca, proceeding in longitudinal rows. It feeds on grass, and other herbs that grow in watery places, and is so shy, that when alarmed by the smallest noise it plunges under water, also like the paca, for security, where it remains for a considerable time. The flesh of the tapira is delicate, being accounted superior to the best ox-beef.—See both the above animals in the annexed plate.The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.Barlow sculp.The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.The Manati, or Sea Cow of Guiana.London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.A Mr.Selefelder, of the Society service, at this time assured me, that he saw quite a different river-horse in the[177]River Marawina; and MajorAbercromby, of the same service, declared, that amermaidwas lately seen in the River Surinam. LordMonboddoalso positively affirms the existence of sea-women and sea-men, while he asserts that they were seen so late as 1720. But, however respectable his lordship’s judgment and authority may be on other subjects, I can no more agree with him, as to men and women having fins and scales, than to their havingtails.The plain fact, in my humble opinion, is this, that in many rivers between the Tropics, both on the coast of Africa and South America, a fish sometimes appears half above the water, that bears a distant resemblance of the human species, but is smaller, nearly such as in 1794 was exhibited in London. The colour is of a blackish green; the head is round, with a deformed kind of a face; a strong fin runs from near the eyes to the middle of the back, which something resembles flowing hair: and the two supposed arms and hands, are two fleshy fins, or rather digitated swimmers; the female has breasts assuredly like a woman’s, being a viviparous animal; while the tail is exactly that of a fish, in most of which properties it agrees with the seal, but this last has no fin along the back, and is considerably larger, while it never appears erect above the water, like the former. The above information I had from several old negroes and Indians, who all agreed perfectly in the description; some added, that they sang, which I apprehend to be no other than a[178]grunting noise which they emit like most other tropical fish and amphibious animals.They concluded by assuring me, that though they were scarce, nothing was more dreaded by their wives and children, than theWatra Mama, which signifies the mother of the waters; and by which name, strange to tell, they distinguish theirSybils.—So much for themonstersof the deep; and now I shall once more return to those infesting Terra Firma.I have just mentioned, that, on account of a very bad foot, I had been returned unfit for duty by the surgeon, on the 19th of November; yet this day, December 5th, another surgeon, with two captains, and the adjutant, were sent to inspect bothmeand CaptainPerret, who was also sick. The surgeon gave his declarationupon oath, that we were incapable of walking without danger, much more of undergoing fatigue; but Seyburg, who was still in his phrenzy fever, declared we should instantly enter the woods, though he should see us carried in twowheel-barrows. Poor Captain Perret complied to turn out, though he looked like a ghost, and could scarcely stand; but I solemnly swore that I would blow out the first man’s brains who dareddisrespectfullyto touch me: in consequence of which I was close guarded by a sentinel; while the whole camp, upon my soul, now seemed to be composed of none but madmen.On the 11th we received intelligence that a number of armed rebels had been just seen opposite to Devil’s Harwar,[179]and afterwards informed they were upon their retreat from the Comawina River, where on the 5th they had burnt to ashes the dwelling-house of the estateKillestyn Nova, with Mr.Slighterthe overseerin it, ransacked the whole plantation, killed and carried off thirty-three women, and chopped off the limb of a male mulatto child, to be revenged of its father; and that the Pirica rangers were in pursuit of them. Captain Fredericy also arrived this day, who had exchanged from the Society troops into Colonel Fourgeoud’s regiment of marines, and confirmed to us the above unhappy news.About this time, after having starved four months, my remaining stores arrived at last from Mocha, but three-fourths rotted and destroyed by theblataor cockroaches: the remaining part I distributed among the sick people. But what proved truly acceptable, was the cheering account thatJoannaandJohnnywere past danger, and recovering at Paramaribo. This intelligence indeed so elevated my spirits, that the next morning I reported myself fit for duty, though God knows that I was not; and to this I was the more induced by the want of fresh air, of which I was perfectly debarred in my confinement, and stood so much in need. The same evening a boat full of Caribbee Indians rowed up Cormoetibo, for the River Marawina, by the communication of the Wana Creek.In eight days more, which was the 20th of December, being actually recovered of the wound in my foot, and Seyburg of his phrenetic fever, another officer and I played him the following trick, for his bad usage.[180]Having invited this gentleman, with his adjutant, and a few more, to see us act a farce by candle-light, we affected to quarrel, and beating out the candle, the door being well secured, laid on in the dark with such success upon a certain somebody’s shoulders, that, calling out Murder! he leaped out at the window. Nothing ever gave me greater entertainment than to perceive his agility; but Colonel Seyburg declared he would never more toour playbe a spectator.At this time orders arrived from Colonel Fourgeoud, who was also better, to break up our camp at Jerusalem, and march once more to the Wana Creek. In consequence the sick were again sent down in barges to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar, which was nearly full, while several were labouring under a disease something like thetympany, called here thekook, being a prodigious hardness and swelling in the belly, occasioned, it is said, by drinking muddy water without spirits, which was indeed our daily and general beverage.On the 22d, at six o’clock in the morning, we all decamped, and scrambled up along the banks of the Cormoetibo Creek, through a perfect bog, while one poor negro, who had his head fractured, was left behind, and another knocked over-board one of the barges, who was drowned.We this day again saw great numbers of pingoes or warree-hogs, which as usual breaking through our line, were cut down by sabres and stabbed, while some ran off with the bayonets sticking in their hams.[181]This march was peculiarly disagreeable, upon account of the heavy rains, which now began to fall down in torrents, overflowing the banks of all the rivers; and so cold were the damps in the morning, contrasted with the late warm days, that we frequently lay shivering in our hammocks as in frost, especially when sleeping in wet cloaths. This inconvenience, however, I obviated to day by marching half naked, like the rangers, and putting my shirt in one of the reversed kettles, during the rain—thus my skin soon drying, after a shower, I again put on my linen, and found myself much more comfortable than any of my trembling ghastly looking companions.On the evening of the 23d, we encamped near a rivulet called theCaymansor Alligator Creek; where a tree calledMonbiaraafforded some excellent fruit, but this was entirely stripped by the slaves before I could either taste or even see it in perfection.The rains continuing to pour down in a deluge, I again marched stripped on the 24th, and we slung our hammocks in the evening, near a brook calledYorica, or the Devil’s Creek, where we made huts or sheds to cover us, and stowed the provisions upon rafters.On the following day we once more laboured through deep mud and water, in very heavy rains, and encamped at another small brook, called theJava Creek, three miles below the Wana.On the 26th I was selected, with a small party, to reconnoitre the old camps at Wana Creek. In the evening[182]we returned, half swimming through mud and water, and having literally seen nothing, except some birds and curious trees, which I cannot pass unnoticed. The birds were called theCromback, theCamawarry, and theCrocro. The first is a kind of large snipe, the size of a woodcock, with a crooked bill. The second is also a water fowl, but three times as large as the first: on account of their swiftness, and disappearing in a moment, I can give but a very imperfect description of them. TheCrocrois something less than our ravens, and I believe of the same species, being one of the most voracious birds of the carnivorous tribe; in Guiana it is of a dark blue colour, has a remarkably strong bill and limbs, and croaks excessively loud and disagreeably, especially by night. The trees were what the negroes called theMatakee, and theMarkoory. The first is remarkable for its roots, which spread above the ground in such a manner, that they will conceal a score of men from each other; nay so large are they sometimes, that a horseman may ride through between the interstices, and one single piece is sufficient to make a table large enough to hold twelve people.For a better idea of this wonderful tree, I refer the reader to the annexed plate; where I have placed it upon the opposite shore of the encampment at Jerusalem. In the same plate, he is also presented with afair-weatherview of the camp at Java Creek.View of the Camp at the Java Creek.Barlow sculpt.View of the Camp at the Java Creek.View of the Encampment at Jerusalem.London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Paul’s Church Yard.The other tree, called the Markoory, is truly formidable[183]on account of its poisonous qualities, which are of such a subtle nature, that the very smoke of this wood, when on fire, is fatal to those animals that receive it into their lungs; this is always seen to grow by itself, as it infallibly kills every thing around it, nay even the slaves refuse to cut it down on the plantations, so much are they afraid of touching, or of even coming near to it. The Markoory is low, ugly, and uneven, with very few branches, and a pale verdure. I have been told that some of the Indians render their arrows fatal by dipping the barbs of them in its sap.On the 27th, another patrole was sent out, but to no better purpose than the first. I have mentioned that my foot was recovered, and so it was, but I had now extracted out of my right arm two dreadful insects, which left behind them very deep ulcers. These are called in Surinam thebush-worms, and are the shape and size of the aurelia of the common butterfly, with a pointed tail and black head. They stuck extremely fast in the flesh, and were extracted with a lancet. They breed naturally in stagnated waters, in marching constantly through which they had attached themselves to my flesh.My heart now began to sink with accumulated disasters; my mind was agitated and depressed with a constant train of tortures, to which I could see no end, and I became weary of life. In this dreadful situation I fell upon my naked knees, and invoked the malediction of Heaven to fall on me, if I did not separate myself from[184]my present commanders and this service, the first honourable opportunity that should offer itself;—how religiously I have persevered in observing this vow, shall be seen in the sequel of these pages, before I take my final farewell of my readers.The place of our present encampment was now intolerable beyond every description, being constantly overflowed, so that the ammunition and provisions were stowed for preservation on wooden rafts; nor could we step out of our hammocks without being up to the knees in mud and water, where it was most shallow, while the gnats and other insects devoured us alive. The consequence of all which was, thatanotherbarge full of dying wretches was sent down the Cormoetibo Creek, bound for the hospital at Devil’s Harwar; among whom the poor old negro with his fractured skull, who had only yesterday rejoined us in his shocking condition. This floatingcharnel-houseweighed anchor on the last day of the year 1775—with which I shall beg leave to conclude this gloomy chapter.[185]1This was the more surprising, as we were at peace with all theIndians, and scalping was never practised by thenegroes.↑2All sailors, soldiers, and negroes are particularly miserable without tobacco: it keeps up their spirits, they say, and somealmostprefer it to bread.↑

[Contents]CHAP.XXIII.Second march to Gado-Saby—Account of a living Skeleton—Beautiful Landscapes—The Commander in Chief falls sick, and leaves the Camp—Some Rebels taken—Discourse on the Existence of Mermaids—Heavy Rains—Disease—Famine—Misery.On the 9th of October, 1775, Colonel Fourgeoud broke up the encampment at the Wana Creek to join us at Jerusalem, having sent down the half of his party sick in barges; and their number being greatly augmented by the invalids from this place, they were all together transported to receive thecoup-de-gracein the hospital at Devil’s Harwar. The rangers also took their leave, and marched, with Mr. Vinsack their conductor, to guard the Pirica River.Fourgeoud, during his last cruize, had discovered a hundred empty houses, and seen some straggling rebels, but he had taken none. He had also found a scalp fixed to the branch of a tree, which we justly conjectured to be the remains of the unfortunateSchmidt, who was lost1.On the 13th my black boy, Quaco, being perfectly recovered,[161]arrived, to my great satisfaction, as his fidelity to me was so steady and unshaken. At the same time we received an account that Captain Stoelman, with some rangers, had discovered a fresh settlement of the rebels by a great smoke appearing at a distance in the forest, but had not yet attacked them; that Captain Fredericy, with a party of black volunteers, was scouring the sea-side below Paramaribo; that the two men we had lost on the 18th of August had miraculously escaped, and found their way to the post at the river Marawina; and that no less than twelve fine negro slaves had just deserted from theGold Mineestate to join the rebels.This news so much exasperated Colonel Fourgeoud, that the indefatigable man again determined to persevere in pursuing his enemies. We accordingly entered the woods very early on the morning of the 15th, although he and his little army were at this time greatly reduced. He buried but the evening before one of his countrymen, a volunteer, calledMatthew, and brother to the ensign: but death was now become so familiar to us, that upon losing a friend or relation, the first question generally was, “Has he left any brandy, rum, or tobacco?”—“Pauvre Laurant!” said I, to his shrivelled valet-de-chambre, “the brave Fourgeoud is like fire; he is to the colony an excellent servant indeed; but I think to both you and myself but a roughish master.” The poor fellow, shrugging up his shoulders, replied, with a grin and a heavy sigh, “Oui, par ma foi!” and then treated[162]me with a pinch of his snuff. I must not omit that, a little before our departure, seven more of our negro slaves did desert us, who went home to their masters perfectly broken-hearted, emaciated, and nearly starved; however, we proceeded, and marched directly N. E. during which nothing happened, except my box with all my bottles being dashed to pieces; and in the evening we encamped, thoughthenunknown to us, near the Cassipore Creek, where the dry season having commenced, we dug a pit for water. Orders were also issued to the troops no more to build huts, sheds, &c. as the rains were now less violent.On the 16th we continued our route, marching N. E. as before, and towards the evening arrived at the houses which Colonel Fourgeoud had lately discovered, which proved since to be only a temporary settlement, erected by the rebels as a shelter or asylum in their expected retreat, before they were dislodged from Gado-Saby; and to this little settlement they had given the name ofBoossy Cry, that is, “the woods lament.” Here we encamped, and took much notice of Bonny’s house in particular, which was built like a watering machine, being elevated from the ground, with two doors, so that he might the better observe all around him, and prevent his being taken by surprize; it also had more air, and, of course, was better calculated for his health, he having in some late action received a very dangerous wound in the groin, as we afterwards learned from a rebel negro prisoner. Near to[163]Bonny’s house were the private baths, where his women washed themselves morning and evening, there being no river near this settlement.In this encampment one of our slaves presented me with aland-turtle, which indeed we had met with several times before; but as I have never described this animal, I will now endeavour to give some account of it.—The land-turtle of Surinam is not more than eighteen or twenty inches in length, and of an oval form; the shell is more convex than that of the sea-turtle, and marked with thirteen elevated hexangular shields, dark brown and yellow, so hard that it will bear almost any weight without breaking; the under shell is a little concave, and of a light yellow: the head of this animal resembles that of other turtles; the tail is naked and short, but instead of fins or swimmers it has four feet covered with scales, and armed with sharp claws to assist it in crawling over the ground. When this poor creature sees any danger, it instantly shrinks within its shell. In this situation the Indians put it on the fire, where they broil it until it is drest, which is known by the under shell separating from the upper, which serves for a dish to hold the contents. A less barbarous way, and the way which I always followed, is only to provoke the animal by the heat of the embers to run away; when stretching out its head and neck, they are easily chopped off, and the food extracted without additional torture. I have known Mr. de Graaf keep three or four of these land-turtles for above four[164]months for transportation, during which time they lived without any apparent nourishment whatever, yet still remained vigorous, and even prone to copulation.Another kind of land-turtle, called here thearlacacca, I have often seen; this is less in circumference, very flat, of a disagreeable greenish colour, and nothing like so good as the former.On the 17th we continued our march N. and N. E. in hopes of more discoveries, but without success. We this day passed some ant-hillocks above six feet high, and, without exaggeration, above one hundred feet in circumference. We also saw great quantities of valuable timber, and, among the rest, theblack-cabbagetree, the wood of which is of a deep brown, and is in high estimation among carpenters and joiners. Thesand-bookertree was like-wise shewn me, which receives its name from the fruit, which being divested of its seed, is used as a sand-box by writers. It is of the shape of a large onion, with small holes in the surface; the seed is both laxative and emetic, but the juice of the pulp is a fatal poison. More than this I cannot say, having had neither the time nor the power of examining it with the accuracy of a professed botanist.On the 18th we continued the same course for a few hours longer, when we found a beaten path, which, though circuitous, seemed to be a communication between Gado-Saby and Boossy-Cry. We followed this path, which led us due W. for a few hours, when a poor[165]rebel negro was found by me covered with branches of the manicole-tree, and indeed barely alive, being in appearance nothing but skin and bone, with one of his eyes almost beaten out of the socket. I put my bottle to his mouth, he swallowed a few drops of rum and water, and said with a faint voice, which we could scarcely hear, “Dank ye, me Massera!” but could articulate nothing more. Fourgeoud ordered this man to be carried with us in a hammock; and we soon afterwards encamped near a biree-biree swamp or quagmire. I ought not to forget that this day we saw some very finelocust-trees, being eighty or a hundred feet high, and prodigiously thick; the trunk is grey and very straight, with no branches till near the top, on which the leaves are disposed two to each stem: this is justly called the king of the forest, for a finer tree cannot be found. The timber is of a beautiful cinnamon-colour, and possesses everydesirablequality of gravity, polish, grain, and durability.—But what particularly attracted our notice was its seed, like beans, three or four in number, enclosed in a broad light-brown pod, that lay flattered in quantities at the root of the tree, upon the ground, and tasted like some kinds of gingerbread. From the root of this tree a gum exudes, which, properly prepared, affords a varnish hitherto unequalled for transparency and effect.Innumerable indeed are the various fine trees that this country produces, and which may be had for the cutting; yet, when we consider the distance they usually grow from navigable rivers, the great labour in felling and[166]working them, the vast number of slaves required to drag them through the forest, where no horses can be employed, besides the danger and loss of time, we may easily account for the enormous price generally paid for the best timber in Guiana.This march undoubtedly afforded us the most enchanting prospects that can be imagined, in a luxuriant and ever-green forest, while the dry season contributed greatly to beautify the scene; and simple nature by far outshone the most strenuous endeavours of art. Here we met with immense savannas of the most lovely verdure, interspersed with meandring brooks of water, cool and clear as rock crystal; their borders adorned with flowers of every lively hue and fragrance. In some places we observed small clumps of elegant shrubs, or perhaps a single tree, whose beauty would almost induce one to think they had been designedly left growing to enrich the scene. The whole surrounded by a vast wood of lofty palm-trees, waving their sea-green foliage above the variegated copse of never-fading verdure, blossom, and fruit, as if to invite the panting wanderer under its cooling shade, till in the later hours he might enjoy the bracing pleasures of the limpid flood, and contemplate nature’s beauties undisturbed.—When universal silence reigned every where around, how often have I thought on mydear friend, and wished with her to glide through life in these Elysian fields!—But I must wave the pleasing recollection.On the 19th we again marched, and fell in with our[167]old path, which we followed, leading directly to the fields of Gado-Saby, where quantities of rice once more appeared in full bloom, which we cut down and burned to ashes. Here, perceiving the poor rebel negro hopeless of recovery, not absolutely to bury him alive, he was overspread with moss, leaves, and green boughs; after which we slung our hammocks, being almost choaked with smoke.In these fields I saw a lizard above two feet long, which the negro slaves killed and ate: they called itsapagala, it was of a brownish green colour, but did not resemble the iguana. Among the ruins of the consumed town we discovered somescolopendras, or centipedes, no less than eight or ten inches in length; this odious reptile is of a yellowish-brown colour, walks very fast backwards or forwards, and bites so severely, that the venom it infuses, though not deemed fatal, generally produces a fever. Some writers assign this reptile twenty pair of legs, others forty; I never reckoned them, and can only observe, that they appeared to me exactly to resemble the centipedes in Europe. Some of our gentlemen formed large collections of these curiosities, which were very valuable, whilst I contented myself with the drawings and descriptions only of those I thought most uncommon.On the 20th, we marched to visitCofaay, when I perceiving the unhappy negro captive still alive; after removing the branches, he was, at my earnest intercession, once more carried along with us; but the slaves, being[168]discontented with such a load, took every opportunity, in my absence, of torturing him, by knocking him against roots and stones, and dragging him through mud and water as they went along. Different patroles were now ordered out to reconnoitre the grounds, while the remainder of the troops encamped in thewestpart of Cofaay; and these patroles discovered no less than four beautiful fields in one chain, situated due west from Cofaay, well stocked with cassava, yams, plantains, pistachio nuts, with maize and pigeon peas: also were seen several human carcases, the relicts of our late engagements in August. We found here a species ofmedlarsof a crimson colour, and of a taste very much like that of strawberries. This fruit grows on a large green shrub, and is cultivated in many gardens at Paramaribo. We also met with a kind of wild plum-tree calledmonpe: the fruit is yellow, oblong, and small; the stone is large, the pulp thin, and though of a sharp acid has an agreeable flavour.On the morning of the 21st, all these and every useful vegetable were cut down, and again destroyed by fire; after which, returning to our last night’s camp, we found it also in flames, and were obliged to sling our hammocks in theeastskirts of the woods. Here, recollecting that the poor disabled rebel was left alone, I ran backwestto the burning camp to afford him assistance; but after seeking him in vain through clouds of smoke and darkness, I was forced to consult my own safety, by hastily returning[169]to my companions; some blaming me much for my temerity, others damning theskeleton, whether dead or alive.The devastation being now compleated, we marched back to Jerusalem, where on the 24th we arrived perfectly exhausted, and Fourgeoud at last so ill with a phrenzy fever, that he was confined to his hammock, with small hopes of surviving the night. But he however still continued to command, and the next morning ordered a marine to be bastonaded, for asking shoes, although he was bare-footed, and his feet tore to pieces; while another was flogged for coughing, who had a severe cold; a captain was dismissed from actual service, and confined in Fort Zealandia, for having dared to marry without his consent.—Sickness and death now raged through the camp, and every thing was in the utmost confusion.To compleat the whole, on the 1st of November, twenty-five more negro slaves ran away; and on the 3d we received intelligence that no less than fifty armed rebels had been seen swimming across the River Cottica, about a musket-shot above Barbacoeba.In consequence of this information, Colonel Seyburg was detached, with the few men that remained able to carry arms, who through distress and famine were now almost ready to attack their own officers; and who being unsupplied with their favourite luxury, tobacco2, sat[170]smoking grey paper, and chewing leaves and leather as a substitute for the want of it. Few men, however, were worse off than I was at this time; since, having neither provisions nor cloaths, I was almost naked as well as starved, with a running ulcer in my left foot, ever since the ambuscade and march to Pirica; nor had I a friend in the camp who could give me the smallest assistance. To compleat my misery, the little blood I had remaining was intwosuccessive nights again nearly sucked away by the vampire-bat, or spectre: thus I fainted away in my hammock, and was almost sorry to recover, particularly upon being informed by a letter that Joanna and her boy were dying with a putrid fever at Paramaribo.At last, on the 12th, Serjeant Fowler arrived fromMocha, withoneof my boxes; when this poor fellow, notwithstanding my situation, made me laugh aloud by producing a letter from his mother in Europe, which made him extremely happy; and which I must beg leaveverbatimto transcribe.“Dair Shonny,“I have relaved your girl from the Bridevail—and your shits from the panbroker—the baby is died—blessed be Goat, while I hop yow be living. I am your laffing mother tell death,Maggy Fowler.”The same evening Colonel Seyburg’s party returned, without having obtained any further intelligence.On the 14th Colonel Fourgeoud was so dangerously[171]ill, that he at length was obliged to relinquish his command, and proceed to town for his recovery. Accordingly on the 15th, he set out by water for Paramaribo: thus, after having sacrificed all his troops, he became himself finally a victim to his unbounded ambition and obstinate perseverance in this worst of all climates, while by toiling less and living better both he and his soldiers might have rendered the colony, if not superior, at least an equal service.—A barge loaded with sick and dying was at the same time once more sent to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar.The command of the remaining scarecrows now devolved upon the Lieutenant Colonel, who (strange to tell!) that very evening inherited thesamedistemper, as well as the chief command; the barge that rowed off the old hero having but just disappeared, when this gentleman was attacked also by the phrenzy fever; the above complaint was indeed at this time very common amongst all ranks and degrees who were broiling under a burning sun at Jerusalem; it being the dry season, when we ought to have been in the woods—but for those expeditions, as I have stated before, the rainy seasons were most unhappily preferred. Several officers would have before now thrown up their military commissions, could they with decency have taken such a measure, during an expedition on actual service; nor, in my opinion, ought such to be granted, cases of the very greatest necessity excepted. I could myself have wished to go for some time to Paramaribo,[172]but as this favour was not offered me, while all the others, and even the slaves, were relieved, I scorned to petition for it while I was able to stand.On the 19th, however, my foot became so bad, that the surgeon reported me unfit for duty; yet I still remained in the camp, where I could be to none of any service.A supply of fresh troops, slaves, and provisions being arrived on the 20th, Major Medlar, with 150 men, was detached to make new discoveries.Among other plagues, the whole camp at this time swarmed withlocusts, which appeared every where in most formidable troops, devouring every thing that lay in their way. Indeed the curse of Heaven seemed to visit us here in various shapes, and every vermin were so plenty at this time, that no exertion could keep us perfectly free. These locusts were brown, two inches in length, and shaped like a grasshopper; they did not fly, but crawled by millions on the very tables and seats as we sat at dinner, and at night they tormented us by crawling over our faces by scores.The only desirable article we found at Jerusalem was fish, of which we seldom wanted plenty, particularlynewmaraandwarrappa, also thepatakee, and theold wifee, both very excellent; the former of which is about two feet long, shaped like a whiting, the other is the size of a large perch. A kind of needle-fish, callednaaynaay-fisee, was found here in great abundance, these were very thin, and about one foot in length; also a kind of[173]dung-fish, about the size of a small herring, but these two last were only used by the negroes.On the 3d of December, Major Medlar’s party returned, after fourteen days absence, with a captive rebel woman and her boy about eight years old, taken in a small field of bitter cassava. The poor woman was pregnant, and under great alarms, but was tenderly treated by Medlar, who was always a humane and well-disposed gentleman. He had, however, unluckily lost two of his best men, oneSchoelar, a corporal, the other calledPhilip Van den Bos, a private marine, who having inadvertently eaten a few roots of the abovebitter cassavawere poisoned, and died during the same night with the most excruciating pain and convulsions: the antidote is said to be Cayenne pepper and spirits, neither of which were at that time to be procured.The black woman confirmed the account that Bonny had been wounded; she also told us the poor starved negro we had found was calledIsaac, and had been left for dead. That one CaptainAricohad formed a new settlement near the sea, calledFissy-Hollo; while Bonny, she assured us, maintained the strictest discipline amongst his troops: he was, she said, absolutely despotic, and had executed two of his men but three days before we took Gado-Saby,viz.during the night of the 17th August, when we heard the firing and shouting, only upon suspicion of having hinted some few words in favour of the Europeans, and were the heads which we found stuck[174]on the stakes. She further assured us, that none of his people were trusted with arms, until they had first served him some years as slaves, and given him unquestionable proofs of fidelity and resolution. But these, she observed, were but few in number, when compared to his numerous vassals, who were bound to do without murmuring whatever he thought proper to command them; yet that hestillwas more beloved than he was feared, on account of his inflexible justice and manly courage.On the 4th December, this poor woman and her boy were sent to Paramaribo, with EnsigndeCabanus, who had taken them: he had at the same time nearly seized a young girl about fifteen, who by her great agility, and being stark naked, slipped out of his hands:——“Fugit ocior aurâIlla levi: neque ad hæc revocantis verba resistit:Nympha, precor, Peneia, mane: non insequor hostis.Nympha, mane.”——Ovid.It being proved at the court that the above woman had been forcibly carried off by the rebels, though many years before, the poor creature was pardoned, and joyfully returned with her child to her master’s plantation. It is remarkable, that when the boy saw the first cow or horse he almost fell into convulsions with terror; nor could he bear to be touched by any white person, whom[175]he never had seen before, and whom he constantly calledYorica, which in his language signifies the devil.About this time a dead sea-cow, ormanatee, by the French calledLamantin, floating past Jerusalem, the negro slaves fell upon it, like so many crows upon a carrion, swimming round it, some with a rusty knife, some with a bill-hook, and each carrying off a slice for his dinner; at last they dragged the stinking animal on shore, of which I instantly took a drawing. This manatee was exactly sixteen feet long, almost shapeless, being an enormous lump of fat, tapering backwards to a fleshy, broad, horizontal tail. It had a thick round head, a flattish snout, large nostrils, with strong bristles both on its nose and chin, small eyes, and auditory holes instead of ears. Instead of feet, it had two excrescences or fleshy fins, like those of the sea-turtle, projecting near its head; with these it swims, and moves awkwardly to eat the grass on the banks of the rivers, being an amphibious animal. The colour was a greenish black; the skin was hard and uneven, covered with large knobs, circular wrinkles, and with a very few stiff hairs thinly scattered. It had grinders but no fore-teeth, and a very short tongue. The sea-cow or manatee is, like the whale, a viviparous animal, the female suckling its young by the help of its swimmers. They are very numerous in the river Amazons; their flesh, it is said, resembles veal, and is very good food. This was, however, too far advanced in a state of putridity, for me to taste it. It had the marks of being[176]twice shot, which must have been by the rebels on the 27th, when we heard the report of two muskets at a distance.As I am once more on the subject of natural history, I shall describe another amphibious animal, called thetapira, which bears some distant resemblance to the hippopotamus of the old continent, but it is a great deal less. This creature is about the size of a small ass, but much more clumsy. The head is not unlike that of a horse, but the upper lip much longer, projecting something like the proboscis of an elephant, and is also moveable, but too short to be of use, as is the trunk of that animal; the ears are short, the tusks strong, and sometimes visible, the mane is bristly and erect, the limbs are low and strong, with a kind of hoof divided into four claws, and the tail is thick and short, like that of the elephant. The skin of this creature is excessively thick, of a brown colour, and when young it is marked with white spots, like those of the stag or paca, proceeding in longitudinal rows. It feeds on grass, and other herbs that grow in watery places, and is so shy, that when alarmed by the smallest noise it plunges under water, also like the paca, for security, where it remains for a considerable time. The flesh of the tapira is delicate, being accounted superior to the best ox-beef.—See both the above animals in the annexed plate.The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.Barlow sculp.The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.The Manati, or Sea Cow of Guiana.London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.A Mr.Selefelder, of the Society service, at this time assured me, that he saw quite a different river-horse in the[177]River Marawina; and MajorAbercromby, of the same service, declared, that amermaidwas lately seen in the River Surinam. LordMonboddoalso positively affirms the existence of sea-women and sea-men, while he asserts that they were seen so late as 1720. But, however respectable his lordship’s judgment and authority may be on other subjects, I can no more agree with him, as to men and women having fins and scales, than to their havingtails.The plain fact, in my humble opinion, is this, that in many rivers between the Tropics, both on the coast of Africa and South America, a fish sometimes appears half above the water, that bears a distant resemblance of the human species, but is smaller, nearly such as in 1794 was exhibited in London. The colour is of a blackish green; the head is round, with a deformed kind of a face; a strong fin runs from near the eyes to the middle of the back, which something resembles flowing hair: and the two supposed arms and hands, are two fleshy fins, or rather digitated swimmers; the female has breasts assuredly like a woman’s, being a viviparous animal; while the tail is exactly that of a fish, in most of which properties it agrees with the seal, but this last has no fin along the back, and is considerably larger, while it never appears erect above the water, like the former. The above information I had from several old negroes and Indians, who all agreed perfectly in the description; some added, that they sang, which I apprehend to be no other than a[178]grunting noise which they emit like most other tropical fish and amphibious animals.They concluded by assuring me, that though they were scarce, nothing was more dreaded by their wives and children, than theWatra Mama, which signifies the mother of the waters; and by which name, strange to tell, they distinguish theirSybils.—So much for themonstersof the deep; and now I shall once more return to those infesting Terra Firma.I have just mentioned, that, on account of a very bad foot, I had been returned unfit for duty by the surgeon, on the 19th of November; yet this day, December 5th, another surgeon, with two captains, and the adjutant, were sent to inspect bothmeand CaptainPerret, who was also sick. The surgeon gave his declarationupon oath, that we were incapable of walking without danger, much more of undergoing fatigue; but Seyburg, who was still in his phrenzy fever, declared we should instantly enter the woods, though he should see us carried in twowheel-barrows. Poor Captain Perret complied to turn out, though he looked like a ghost, and could scarcely stand; but I solemnly swore that I would blow out the first man’s brains who dareddisrespectfullyto touch me: in consequence of which I was close guarded by a sentinel; while the whole camp, upon my soul, now seemed to be composed of none but madmen.On the 11th we received intelligence that a number of armed rebels had been just seen opposite to Devil’s Harwar,[179]and afterwards informed they were upon their retreat from the Comawina River, where on the 5th they had burnt to ashes the dwelling-house of the estateKillestyn Nova, with Mr.Slighterthe overseerin it, ransacked the whole plantation, killed and carried off thirty-three women, and chopped off the limb of a male mulatto child, to be revenged of its father; and that the Pirica rangers were in pursuit of them. Captain Fredericy also arrived this day, who had exchanged from the Society troops into Colonel Fourgeoud’s regiment of marines, and confirmed to us the above unhappy news.About this time, after having starved four months, my remaining stores arrived at last from Mocha, but three-fourths rotted and destroyed by theblataor cockroaches: the remaining part I distributed among the sick people. But what proved truly acceptable, was the cheering account thatJoannaandJohnnywere past danger, and recovering at Paramaribo. This intelligence indeed so elevated my spirits, that the next morning I reported myself fit for duty, though God knows that I was not; and to this I was the more induced by the want of fresh air, of which I was perfectly debarred in my confinement, and stood so much in need. The same evening a boat full of Caribbee Indians rowed up Cormoetibo, for the River Marawina, by the communication of the Wana Creek.In eight days more, which was the 20th of December, being actually recovered of the wound in my foot, and Seyburg of his phrenetic fever, another officer and I played him the following trick, for his bad usage.[180]Having invited this gentleman, with his adjutant, and a few more, to see us act a farce by candle-light, we affected to quarrel, and beating out the candle, the door being well secured, laid on in the dark with such success upon a certain somebody’s shoulders, that, calling out Murder! he leaped out at the window. Nothing ever gave me greater entertainment than to perceive his agility; but Colonel Seyburg declared he would never more toour playbe a spectator.At this time orders arrived from Colonel Fourgeoud, who was also better, to break up our camp at Jerusalem, and march once more to the Wana Creek. In consequence the sick were again sent down in barges to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar, which was nearly full, while several were labouring under a disease something like thetympany, called here thekook, being a prodigious hardness and swelling in the belly, occasioned, it is said, by drinking muddy water without spirits, which was indeed our daily and general beverage.On the 22d, at six o’clock in the morning, we all decamped, and scrambled up along the banks of the Cormoetibo Creek, through a perfect bog, while one poor negro, who had his head fractured, was left behind, and another knocked over-board one of the barges, who was drowned.We this day again saw great numbers of pingoes or warree-hogs, which as usual breaking through our line, were cut down by sabres and stabbed, while some ran off with the bayonets sticking in their hams.[181]This march was peculiarly disagreeable, upon account of the heavy rains, which now began to fall down in torrents, overflowing the banks of all the rivers; and so cold were the damps in the morning, contrasted with the late warm days, that we frequently lay shivering in our hammocks as in frost, especially when sleeping in wet cloaths. This inconvenience, however, I obviated to day by marching half naked, like the rangers, and putting my shirt in one of the reversed kettles, during the rain—thus my skin soon drying, after a shower, I again put on my linen, and found myself much more comfortable than any of my trembling ghastly looking companions.On the evening of the 23d, we encamped near a rivulet called theCaymansor Alligator Creek; where a tree calledMonbiaraafforded some excellent fruit, but this was entirely stripped by the slaves before I could either taste or even see it in perfection.The rains continuing to pour down in a deluge, I again marched stripped on the 24th, and we slung our hammocks in the evening, near a brook calledYorica, or the Devil’s Creek, where we made huts or sheds to cover us, and stowed the provisions upon rafters.On the following day we once more laboured through deep mud and water, in very heavy rains, and encamped at another small brook, called theJava Creek, three miles below the Wana.On the 26th I was selected, with a small party, to reconnoitre the old camps at Wana Creek. In the evening[182]we returned, half swimming through mud and water, and having literally seen nothing, except some birds and curious trees, which I cannot pass unnoticed. The birds were called theCromback, theCamawarry, and theCrocro. The first is a kind of large snipe, the size of a woodcock, with a crooked bill. The second is also a water fowl, but three times as large as the first: on account of their swiftness, and disappearing in a moment, I can give but a very imperfect description of them. TheCrocrois something less than our ravens, and I believe of the same species, being one of the most voracious birds of the carnivorous tribe; in Guiana it is of a dark blue colour, has a remarkably strong bill and limbs, and croaks excessively loud and disagreeably, especially by night. The trees were what the negroes called theMatakee, and theMarkoory. The first is remarkable for its roots, which spread above the ground in such a manner, that they will conceal a score of men from each other; nay so large are they sometimes, that a horseman may ride through between the interstices, and one single piece is sufficient to make a table large enough to hold twelve people.For a better idea of this wonderful tree, I refer the reader to the annexed plate; where I have placed it upon the opposite shore of the encampment at Jerusalem. In the same plate, he is also presented with afair-weatherview of the camp at Java Creek.View of the Camp at the Java Creek.Barlow sculpt.View of the Camp at the Java Creek.View of the Encampment at Jerusalem.London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Paul’s Church Yard.The other tree, called the Markoory, is truly formidable[183]on account of its poisonous qualities, which are of such a subtle nature, that the very smoke of this wood, when on fire, is fatal to those animals that receive it into their lungs; this is always seen to grow by itself, as it infallibly kills every thing around it, nay even the slaves refuse to cut it down on the plantations, so much are they afraid of touching, or of even coming near to it. The Markoory is low, ugly, and uneven, with very few branches, and a pale verdure. I have been told that some of the Indians render their arrows fatal by dipping the barbs of them in its sap.On the 27th, another patrole was sent out, but to no better purpose than the first. I have mentioned that my foot was recovered, and so it was, but I had now extracted out of my right arm two dreadful insects, which left behind them very deep ulcers. These are called in Surinam thebush-worms, and are the shape and size of the aurelia of the common butterfly, with a pointed tail and black head. They stuck extremely fast in the flesh, and were extracted with a lancet. They breed naturally in stagnated waters, in marching constantly through which they had attached themselves to my flesh.My heart now began to sink with accumulated disasters; my mind was agitated and depressed with a constant train of tortures, to which I could see no end, and I became weary of life. In this dreadful situation I fell upon my naked knees, and invoked the malediction of Heaven to fall on me, if I did not separate myself from[184]my present commanders and this service, the first honourable opportunity that should offer itself;—how religiously I have persevered in observing this vow, shall be seen in the sequel of these pages, before I take my final farewell of my readers.The place of our present encampment was now intolerable beyond every description, being constantly overflowed, so that the ammunition and provisions were stowed for preservation on wooden rafts; nor could we step out of our hammocks without being up to the knees in mud and water, where it was most shallow, while the gnats and other insects devoured us alive. The consequence of all which was, thatanotherbarge full of dying wretches was sent down the Cormoetibo Creek, bound for the hospital at Devil’s Harwar; among whom the poor old negro with his fractured skull, who had only yesterday rejoined us in his shocking condition. This floatingcharnel-houseweighed anchor on the last day of the year 1775—with which I shall beg leave to conclude this gloomy chapter.[185]1This was the more surprising, as we were at peace with all theIndians, and scalping was never practised by thenegroes.↑2All sailors, soldiers, and negroes are particularly miserable without tobacco: it keeps up their spirits, they say, and somealmostprefer it to bread.↑

CHAP.XXIII.Second march to Gado-Saby—Account of a living Skeleton—Beautiful Landscapes—The Commander in Chief falls sick, and leaves the Camp—Some Rebels taken—Discourse on the Existence of Mermaids—Heavy Rains—Disease—Famine—Misery.

Second march to Gado-Saby—Account of a living Skeleton—Beautiful Landscapes—The Commander in Chief falls sick, and leaves the Camp—Some Rebels taken—Discourse on the Existence of Mermaids—Heavy Rains—Disease—Famine—Misery.

Second march to Gado-Saby—Account of a living Skeleton—Beautiful Landscapes—The Commander in Chief falls sick, and leaves the Camp—Some Rebels taken—Discourse on the Existence of Mermaids—Heavy Rains—Disease—Famine—Misery.

On the 9th of October, 1775, Colonel Fourgeoud broke up the encampment at the Wana Creek to join us at Jerusalem, having sent down the half of his party sick in barges; and their number being greatly augmented by the invalids from this place, they were all together transported to receive thecoup-de-gracein the hospital at Devil’s Harwar. The rangers also took their leave, and marched, with Mr. Vinsack their conductor, to guard the Pirica River.Fourgeoud, during his last cruize, had discovered a hundred empty houses, and seen some straggling rebels, but he had taken none. He had also found a scalp fixed to the branch of a tree, which we justly conjectured to be the remains of the unfortunateSchmidt, who was lost1.On the 13th my black boy, Quaco, being perfectly recovered,[161]arrived, to my great satisfaction, as his fidelity to me was so steady and unshaken. At the same time we received an account that Captain Stoelman, with some rangers, had discovered a fresh settlement of the rebels by a great smoke appearing at a distance in the forest, but had not yet attacked them; that Captain Fredericy, with a party of black volunteers, was scouring the sea-side below Paramaribo; that the two men we had lost on the 18th of August had miraculously escaped, and found their way to the post at the river Marawina; and that no less than twelve fine negro slaves had just deserted from theGold Mineestate to join the rebels.This news so much exasperated Colonel Fourgeoud, that the indefatigable man again determined to persevere in pursuing his enemies. We accordingly entered the woods very early on the morning of the 15th, although he and his little army were at this time greatly reduced. He buried but the evening before one of his countrymen, a volunteer, calledMatthew, and brother to the ensign: but death was now become so familiar to us, that upon losing a friend or relation, the first question generally was, “Has he left any brandy, rum, or tobacco?”—“Pauvre Laurant!” said I, to his shrivelled valet-de-chambre, “the brave Fourgeoud is like fire; he is to the colony an excellent servant indeed; but I think to both you and myself but a roughish master.” The poor fellow, shrugging up his shoulders, replied, with a grin and a heavy sigh, “Oui, par ma foi!” and then treated[162]me with a pinch of his snuff. I must not omit that, a little before our departure, seven more of our negro slaves did desert us, who went home to their masters perfectly broken-hearted, emaciated, and nearly starved; however, we proceeded, and marched directly N. E. during which nothing happened, except my box with all my bottles being dashed to pieces; and in the evening we encamped, thoughthenunknown to us, near the Cassipore Creek, where the dry season having commenced, we dug a pit for water. Orders were also issued to the troops no more to build huts, sheds, &c. as the rains were now less violent.On the 16th we continued our route, marching N. E. as before, and towards the evening arrived at the houses which Colonel Fourgeoud had lately discovered, which proved since to be only a temporary settlement, erected by the rebels as a shelter or asylum in their expected retreat, before they were dislodged from Gado-Saby; and to this little settlement they had given the name ofBoossy Cry, that is, “the woods lament.” Here we encamped, and took much notice of Bonny’s house in particular, which was built like a watering machine, being elevated from the ground, with two doors, so that he might the better observe all around him, and prevent his being taken by surprize; it also had more air, and, of course, was better calculated for his health, he having in some late action received a very dangerous wound in the groin, as we afterwards learned from a rebel negro prisoner. Near to[163]Bonny’s house were the private baths, where his women washed themselves morning and evening, there being no river near this settlement.In this encampment one of our slaves presented me with aland-turtle, which indeed we had met with several times before; but as I have never described this animal, I will now endeavour to give some account of it.—The land-turtle of Surinam is not more than eighteen or twenty inches in length, and of an oval form; the shell is more convex than that of the sea-turtle, and marked with thirteen elevated hexangular shields, dark brown and yellow, so hard that it will bear almost any weight without breaking; the under shell is a little concave, and of a light yellow: the head of this animal resembles that of other turtles; the tail is naked and short, but instead of fins or swimmers it has four feet covered with scales, and armed with sharp claws to assist it in crawling over the ground. When this poor creature sees any danger, it instantly shrinks within its shell. In this situation the Indians put it on the fire, where they broil it until it is drest, which is known by the under shell separating from the upper, which serves for a dish to hold the contents. A less barbarous way, and the way which I always followed, is only to provoke the animal by the heat of the embers to run away; when stretching out its head and neck, they are easily chopped off, and the food extracted without additional torture. I have known Mr. de Graaf keep three or four of these land-turtles for above four[164]months for transportation, during which time they lived without any apparent nourishment whatever, yet still remained vigorous, and even prone to copulation.Another kind of land-turtle, called here thearlacacca, I have often seen; this is less in circumference, very flat, of a disagreeable greenish colour, and nothing like so good as the former.On the 17th we continued our march N. and N. E. in hopes of more discoveries, but without success. We this day passed some ant-hillocks above six feet high, and, without exaggeration, above one hundred feet in circumference. We also saw great quantities of valuable timber, and, among the rest, theblack-cabbagetree, the wood of which is of a deep brown, and is in high estimation among carpenters and joiners. Thesand-bookertree was like-wise shewn me, which receives its name from the fruit, which being divested of its seed, is used as a sand-box by writers. It is of the shape of a large onion, with small holes in the surface; the seed is both laxative and emetic, but the juice of the pulp is a fatal poison. More than this I cannot say, having had neither the time nor the power of examining it with the accuracy of a professed botanist.On the 18th we continued the same course for a few hours longer, when we found a beaten path, which, though circuitous, seemed to be a communication between Gado-Saby and Boossy-Cry. We followed this path, which led us due W. for a few hours, when a poor[165]rebel negro was found by me covered with branches of the manicole-tree, and indeed barely alive, being in appearance nothing but skin and bone, with one of his eyes almost beaten out of the socket. I put my bottle to his mouth, he swallowed a few drops of rum and water, and said with a faint voice, which we could scarcely hear, “Dank ye, me Massera!” but could articulate nothing more. Fourgeoud ordered this man to be carried with us in a hammock; and we soon afterwards encamped near a biree-biree swamp or quagmire. I ought not to forget that this day we saw some very finelocust-trees, being eighty or a hundred feet high, and prodigiously thick; the trunk is grey and very straight, with no branches till near the top, on which the leaves are disposed two to each stem: this is justly called the king of the forest, for a finer tree cannot be found. The timber is of a beautiful cinnamon-colour, and possesses everydesirablequality of gravity, polish, grain, and durability.—But what particularly attracted our notice was its seed, like beans, three or four in number, enclosed in a broad light-brown pod, that lay flattered in quantities at the root of the tree, upon the ground, and tasted like some kinds of gingerbread. From the root of this tree a gum exudes, which, properly prepared, affords a varnish hitherto unequalled for transparency and effect.Innumerable indeed are the various fine trees that this country produces, and which may be had for the cutting; yet, when we consider the distance they usually grow from navigable rivers, the great labour in felling and[166]working them, the vast number of slaves required to drag them through the forest, where no horses can be employed, besides the danger and loss of time, we may easily account for the enormous price generally paid for the best timber in Guiana.This march undoubtedly afforded us the most enchanting prospects that can be imagined, in a luxuriant and ever-green forest, while the dry season contributed greatly to beautify the scene; and simple nature by far outshone the most strenuous endeavours of art. Here we met with immense savannas of the most lovely verdure, interspersed with meandring brooks of water, cool and clear as rock crystal; their borders adorned with flowers of every lively hue and fragrance. In some places we observed small clumps of elegant shrubs, or perhaps a single tree, whose beauty would almost induce one to think they had been designedly left growing to enrich the scene. The whole surrounded by a vast wood of lofty palm-trees, waving their sea-green foliage above the variegated copse of never-fading verdure, blossom, and fruit, as if to invite the panting wanderer under its cooling shade, till in the later hours he might enjoy the bracing pleasures of the limpid flood, and contemplate nature’s beauties undisturbed.—When universal silence reigned every where around, how often have I thought on mydear friend, and wished with her to glide through life in these Elysian fields!—But I must wave the pleasing recollection.On the 19th we again marched, and fell in with our[167]old path, which we followed, leading directly to the fields of Gado-Saby, where quantities of rice once more appeared in full bloom, which we cut down and burned to ashes. Here, perceiving the poor rebel negro hopeless of recovery, not absolutely to bury him alive, he was overspread with moss, leaves, and green boughs; after which we slung our hammocks, being almost choaked with smoke.In these fields I saw a lizard above two feet long, which the negro slaves killed and ate: they called itsapagala, it was of a brownish green colour, but did not resemble the iguana. Among the ruins of the consumed town we discovered somescolopendras, or centipedes, no less than eight or ten inches in length; this odious reptile is of a yellowish-brown colour, walks very fast backwards or forwards, and bites so severely, that the venom it infuses, though not deemed fatal, generally produces a fever. Some writers assign this reptile twenty pair of legs, others forty; I never reckoned them, and can only observe, that they appeared to me exactly to resemble the centipedes in Europe. Some of our gentlemen formed large collections of these curiosities, which were very valuable, whilst I contented myself with the drawings and descriptions only of those I thought most uncommon.On the 20th, we marched to visitCofaay, when I perceiving the unhappy negro captive still alive; after removing the branches, he was, at my earnest intercession, once more carried along with us; but the slaves, being[168]discontented with such a load, took every opportunity, in my absence, of torturing him, by knocking him against roots and stones, and dragging him through mud and water as they went along. Different patroles were now ordered out to reconnoitre the grounds, while the remainder of the troops encamped in thewestpart of Cofaay; and these patroles discovered no less than four beautiful fields in one chain, situated due west from Cofaay, well stocked with cassava, yams, plantains, pistachio nuts, with maize and pigeon peas: also were seen several human carcases, the relicts of our late engagements in August. We found here a species ofmedlarsof a crimson colour, and of a taste very much like that of strawberries. This fruit grows on a large green shrub, and is cultivated in many gardens at Paramaribo. We also met with a kind of wild plum-tree calledmonpe: the fruit is yellow, oblong, and small; the stone is large, the pulp thin, and though of a sharp acid has an agreeable flavour.On the morning of the 21st, all these and every useful vegetable were cut down, and again destroyed by fire; after which, returning to our last night’s camp, we found it also in flames, and were obliged to sling our hammocks in theeastskirts of the woods. Here, recollecting that the poor disabled rebel was left alone, I ran backwestto the burning camp to afford him assistance; but after seeking him in vain through clouds of smoke and darkness, I was forced to consult my own safety, by hastily returning[169]to my companions; some blaming me much for my temerity, others damning theskeleton, whether dead or alive.The devastation being now compleated, we marched back to Jerusalem, where on the 24th we arrived perfectly exhausted, and Fourgeoud at last so ill with a phrenzy fever, that he was confined to his hammock, with small hopes of surviving the night. But he however still continued to command, and the next morning ordered a marine to be bastonaded, for asking shoes, although he was bare-footed, and his feet tore to pieces; while another was flogged for coughing, who had a severe cold; a captain was dismissed from actual service, and confined in Fort Zealandia, for having dared to marry without his consent.—Sickness and death now raged through the camp, and every thing was in the utmost confusion.To compleat the whole, on the 1st of November, twenty-five more negro slaves ran away; and on the 3d we received intelligence that no less than fifty armed rebels had been seen swimming across the River Cottica, about a musket-shot above Barbacoeba.In consequence of this information, Colonel Seyburg was detached, with the few men that remained able to carry arms, who through distress and famine were now almost ready to attack their own officers; and who being unsupplied with their favourite luxury, tobacco2, sat[170]smoking grey paper, and chewing leaves and leather as a substitute for the want of it. Few men, however, were worse off than I was at this time; since, having neither provisions nor cloaths, I was almost naked as well as starved, with a running ulcer in my left foot, ever since the ambuscade and march to Pirica; nor had I a friend in the camp who could give me the smallest assistance. To compleat my misery, the little blood I had remaining was intwosuccessive nights again nearly sucked away by the vampire-bat, or spectre: thus I fainted away in my hammock, and was almost sorry to recover, particularly upon being informed by a letter that Joanna and her boy were dying with a putrid fever at Paramaribo.At last, on the 12th, Serjeant Fowler arrived fromMocha, withoneof my boxes; when this poor fellow, notwithstanding my situation, made me laugh aloud by producing a letter from his mother in Europe, which made him extremely happy; and which I must beg leaveverbatimto transcribe.“Dair Shonny,“I have relaved your girl from the Bridevail—and your shits from the panbroker—the baby is died—blessed be Goat, while I hop yow be living. I am your laffing mother tell death,Maggy Fowler.”The same evening Colonel Seyburg’s party returned, without having obtained any further intelligence.On the 14th Colonel Fourgeoud was so dangerously[171]ill, that he at length was obliged to relinquish his command, and proceed to town for his recovery. Accordingly on the 15th, he set out by water for Paramaribo: thus, after having sacrificed all his troops, he became himself finally a victim to his unbounded ambition and obstinate perseverance in this worst of all climates, while by toiling less and living better both he and his soldiers might have rendered the colony, if not superior, at least an equal service.—A barge loaded with sick and dying was at the same time once more sent to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar.The command of the remaining scarecrows now devolved upon the Lieutenant Colonel, who (strange to tell!) that very evening inherited thesamedistemper, as well as the chief command; the barge that rowed off the old hero having but just disappeared, when this gentleman was attacked also by the phrenzy fever; the above complaint was indeed at this time very common amongst all ranks and degrees who were broiling under a burning sun at Jerusalem; it being the dry season, when we ought to have been in the woods—but for those expeditions, as I have stated before, the rainy seasons were most unhappily preferred. Several officers would have before now thrown up their military commissions, could they with decency have taken such a measure, during an expedition on actual service; nor, in my opinion, ought such to be granted, cases of the very greatest necessity excepted. I could myself have wished to go for some time to Paramaribo,[172]but as this favour was not offered me, while all the others, and even the slaves, were relieved, I scorned to petition for it while I was able to stand.On the 19th, however, my foot became so bad, that the surgeon reported me unfit for duty; yet I still remained in the camp, where I could be to none of any service.A supply of fresh troops, slaves, and provisions being arrived on the 20th, Major Medlar, with 150 men, was detached to make new discoveries.Among other plagues, the whole camp at this time swarmed withlocusts, which appeared every where in most formidable troops, devouring every thing that lay in their way. Indeed the curse of Heaven seemed to visit us here in various shapes, and every vermin were so plenty at this time, that no exertion could keep us perfectly free. These locusts were brown, two inches in length, and shaped like a grasshopper; they did not fly, but crawled by millions on the very tables and seats as we sat at dinner, and at night they tormented us by crawling over our faces by scores.The only desirable article we found at Jerusalem was fish, of which we seldom wanted plenty, particularlynewmaraandwarrappa, also thepatakee, and theold wifee, both very excellent; the former of which is about two feet long, shaped like a whiting, the other is the size of a large perch. A kind of needle-fish, callednaaynaay-fisee, was found here in great abundance, these were very thin, and about one foot in length; also a kind of[173]dung-fish, about the size of a small herring, but these two last were only used by the negroes.On the 3d of December, Major Medlar’s party returned, after fourteen days absence, with a captive rebel woman and her boy about eight years old, taken in a small field of bitter cassava. The poor woman was pregnant, and under great alarms, but was tenderly treated by Medlar, who was always a humane and well-disposed gentleman. He had, however, unluckily lost two of his best men, oneSchoelar, a corporal, the other calledPhilip Van den Bos, a private marine, who having inadvertently eaten a few roots of the abovebitter cassavawere poisoned, and died during the same night with the most excruciating pain and convulsions: the antidote is said to be Cayenne pepper and spirits, neither of which were at that time to be procured.The black woman confirmed the account that Bonny had been wounded; she also told us the poor starved negro we had found was calledIsaac, and had been left for dead. That one CaptainAricohad formed a new settlement near the sea, calledFissy-Hollo; while Bonny, she assured us, maintained the strictest discipline amongst his troops: he was, she said, absolutely despotic, and had executed two of his men but three days before we took Gado-Saby,viz.during the night of the 17th August, when we heard the firing and shouting, only upon suspicion of having hinted some few words in favour of the Europeans, and were the heads which we found stuck[174]on the stakes. She further assured us, that none of his people were trusted with arms, until they had first served him some years as slaves, and given him unquestionable proofs of fidelity and resolution. But these, she observed, were but few in number, when compared to his numerous vassals, who were bound to do without murmuring whatever he thought proper to command them; yet that hestillwas more beloved than he was feared, on account of his inflexible justice and manly courage.On the 4th December, this poor woman and her boy were sent to Paramaribo, with EnsigndeCabanus, who had taken them: he had at the same time nearly seized a young girl about fifteen, who by her great agility, and being stark naked, slipped out of his hands:——“Fugit ocior aurâIlla levi: neque ad hæc revocantis verba resistit:Nympha, precor, Peneia, mane: non insequor hostis.Nympha, mane.”——Ovid.It being proved at the court that the above woman had been forcibly carried off by the rebels, though many years before, the poor creature was pardoned, and joyfully returned with her child to her master’s plantation. It is remarkable, that when the boy saw the first cow or horse he almost fell into convulsions with terror; nor could he bear to be touched by any white person, whom[175]he never had seen before, and whom he constantly calledYorica, which in his language signifies the devil.About this time a dead sea-cow, ormanatee, by the French calledLamantin, floating past Jerusalem, the negro slaves fell upon it, like so many crows upon a carrion, swimming round it, some with a rusty knife, some with a bill-hook, and each carrying off a slice for his dinner; at last they dragged the stinking animal on shore, of which I instantly took a drawing. This manatee was exactly sixteen feet long, almost shapeless, being an enormous lump of fat, tapering backwards to a fleshy, broad, horizontal tail. It had a thick round head, a flattish snout, large nostrils, with strong bristles both on its nose and chin, small eyes, and auditory holes instead of ears. Instead of feet, it had two excrescences or fleshy fins, like those of the sea-turtle, projecting near its head; with these it swims, and moves awkwardly to eat the grass on the banks of the rivers, being an amphibious animal. The colour was a greenish black; the skin was hard and uneven, covered with large knobs, circular wrinkles, and with a very few stiff hairs thinly scattered. It had grinders but no fore-teeth, and a very short tongue. The sea-cow or manatee is, like the whale, a viviparous animal, the female suckling its young by the help of its swimmers. They are very numerous in the river Amazons; their flesh, it is said, resembles veal, and is very good food. This was, however, too far advanced in a state of putridity, for me to taste it. It had the marks of being[176]twice shot, which must have been by the rebels on the 27th, when we heard the report of two muskets at a distance.As I am once more on the subject of natural history, I shall describe another amphibious animal, called thetapira, which bears some distant resemblance to the hippopotamus of the old continent, but it is a great deal less. This creature is about the size of a small ass, but much more clumsy. The head is not unlike that of a horse, but the upper lip much longer, projecting something like the proboscis of an elephant, and is also moveable, but too short to be of use, as is the trunk of that animal; the ears are short, the tusks strong, and sometimes visible, the mane is bristly and erect, the limbs are low and strong, with a kind of hoof divided into four claws, and the tail is thick and short, like that of the elephant. The skin of this creature is excessively thick, of a brown colour, and when young it is marked with white spots, like those of the stag or paca, proceeding in longitudinal rows. It feeds on grass, and other herbs that grow in watery places, and is so shy, that when alarmed by the smallest noise it plunges under water, also like the paca, for security, where it remains for a considerable time. The flesh of the tapira is delicate, being accounted superior to the best ox-beef.—See both the above animals in the annexed plate.The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.Barlow sculp.The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.The Manati, or Sea Cow of Guiana.London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.A Mr.Selefelder, of the Society service, at this time assured me, that he saw quite a different river-horse in the[177]River Marawina; and MajorAbercromby, of the same service, declared, that amermaidwas lately seen in the River Surinam. LordMonboddoalso positively affirms the existence of sea-women and sea-men, while he asserts that they were seen so late as 1720. But, however respectable his lordship’s judgment and authority may be on other subjects, I can no more agree with him, as to men and women having fins and scales, than to their havingtails.The plain fact, in my humble opinion, is this, that in many rivers between the Tropics, both on the coast of Africa and South America, a fish sometimes appears half above the water, that bears a distant resemblance of the human species, but is smaller, nearly such as in 1794 was exhibited in London. The colour is of a blackish green; the head is round, with a deformed kind of a face; a strong fin runs from near the eyes to the middle of the back, which something resembles flowing hair: and the two supposed arms and hands, are two fleshy fins, or rather digitated swimmers; the female has breasts assuredly like a woman’s, being a viviparous animal; while the tail is exactly that of a fish, in most of which properties it agrees with the seal, but this last has no fin along the back, and is considerably larger, while it never appears erect above the water, like the former. The above information I had from several old negroes and Indians, who all agreed perfectly in the description; some added, that they sang, which I apprehend to be no other than a[178]grunting noise which they emit like most other tropical fish and amphibious animals.They concluded by assuring me, that though they were scarce, nothing was more dreaded by their wives and children, than theWatra Mama, which signifies the mother of the waters; and by which name, strange to tell, they distinguish theirSybils.—So much for themonstersof the deep; and now I shall once more return to those infesting Terra Firma.I have just mentioned, that, on account of a very bad foot, I had been returned unfit for duty by the surgeon, on the 19th of November; yet this day, December 5th, another surgeon, with two captains, and the adjutant, were sent to inspect bothmeand CaptainPerret, who was also sick. The surgeon gave his declarationupon oath, that we were incapable of walking without danger, much more of undergoing fatigue; but Seyburg, who was still in his phrenzy fever, declared we should instantly enter the woods, though he should see us carried in twowheel-barrows. Poor Captain Perret complied to turn out, though he looked like a ghost, and could scarcely stand; but I solemnly swore that I would blow out the first man’s brains who dareddisrespectfullyto touch me: in consequence of which I was close guarded by a sentinel; while the whole camp, upon my soul, now seemed to be composed of none but madmen.On the 11th we received intelligence that a number of armed rebels had been just seen opposite to Devil’s Harwar,[179]and afterwards informed they were upon their retreat from the Comawina River, where on the 5th they had burnt to ashes the dwelling-house of the estateKillestyn Nova, with Mr.Slighterthe overseerin it, ransacked the whole plantation, killed and carried off thirty-three women, and chopped off the limb of a male mulatto child, to be revenged of its father; and that the Pirica rangers were in pursuit of them. Captain Fredericy also arrived this day, who had exchanged from the Society troops into Colonel Fourgeoud’s regiment of marines, and confirmed to us the above unhappy news.About this time, after having starved four months, my remaining stores arrived at last from Mocha, but three-fourths rotted and destroyed by theblataor cockroaches: the remaining part I distributed among the sick people. But what proved truly acceptable, was the cheering account thatJoannaandJohnnywere past danger, and recovering at Paramaribo. This intelligence indeed so elevated my spirits, that the next morning I reported myself fit for duty, though God knows that I was not; and to this I was the more induced by the want of fresh air, of which I was perfectly debarred in my confinement, and stood so much in need. The same evening a boat full of Caribbee Indians rowed up Cormoetibo, for the River Marawina, by the communication of the Wana Creek.In eight days more, which was the 20th of December, being actually recovered of the wound in my foot, and Seyburg of his phrenetic fever, another officer and I played him the following trick, for his bad usage.[180]Having invited this gentleman, with his adjutant, and a few more, to see us act a farce by candle-light, we affected to quarrel, and beating out the candle, the door being well secured, laid on in the dark with such success upon a certain somebody’s shoulders, that, calling out Murder! he leaped out at the window. Nothing ever gave me greater entertainment than to perceive his agility; but Colonel Seyburg declared he would never more toour playbe a spectator.At this time orders arrived from Colonel Fourgeoud, who was also better, to break up our camp at Jerusalem, and march once more to the Wana Creek. In consequence the sick were again sent down in barges to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar, which was nearly full, while several were labouring under a disease something like thetympany, called here thekook, being a prodigious hardness and swelling in the belly, occasioned, it is said, by drinking muddy water without spirits, which was indeed our daily and general beverage.On the 22d, at six o’clock in the morning, we all decamped, and scrambled up along the banks of the Cormoetibo Creek, through a perfect bog, while one poor negro, who had his head fractured, was left behind, and another knocked over-board one of the barges, who was drowned.We this day again saw great numbers of pingoes or warree-hogs, which as usual breaking through our line, were cut down by sabres and stabbed, while some ran off with the bayonets sticking in their hams.[181]This march was peculiarly disagreeable, upon account of the heavy rains, which now began to fall down in torrents, overflowing the banks of all the rivers; and so cold were the damps in the morning, contrasted with the late warm days, that we frequently lay shivering in our hammocks as in frost, especially when sleeping in wet cloaths. This inconvenience, however, I obviated to day by marching half naked, like the rangers, and putting my shirt in one of the reversed kettles, during the rain—thus my skin soon drying, after a shower, I again put on my linen, and found myself much more comfortable than any of my trembling ghastly looking companions.On the evening of the 23d, we encamped near a rivulet called theCaymansor Alligator Creek; where a tree calledMonbiaraafforded some excellent fruit, but this was entirely stripped by the slaves before I could either taste or even see it in perfection.The rains continuing to pour down in a deluge, I again marched stripped on the 24th, and we slung our hammocks in the evening, near a brook calledYorica, or the Devil’s Creek, where we made huts or sheds to cover us, and stowed the provisions upon rafters.On the following day we once more laboured through deep mud and water, in very heavy rains, and encamped at another small brook, called theJava Creek, three miles below the Wana.On the 26th I was selected, with a small party, to reconnoitre the old camps at Wana Creek. In the evening[182]we returned, half swimming through mud and water, and having literally seen nothing, except some birds and curious trees, which I cannot pass unnoticed. The birds were called theCromback, theCamawarry, and theCrocro. The first is a kind of large snipe, the size of a woodcock, with a crooked bill. The second is also a water fowl, but three times as large as the first: on account of their swiftness, and disappearing in a moment, I can give but a very imperfect description of them. TheCrocrois something less than our ravens, and I believe of the same species, being one of the most voracious birds of the carnivorous tribe; in Guiana it is of a dark blue colour, has a remarkably strong bill and limbs, and croaks excessively loud and disagreeably, especially by night. The trees were what the negroes called theMatakee, and theMarkoory. The first is remarkable for its roots, which spread above the ground in such a manner, that they will conceal a score of men from each other; nay so large are they sometimes, that a horseman may ride through between the interstices, and one single piece is sufficient to make a table large enough to hold twelve people.For a better idea of this wonderful tree, I refer the reader to the annexed plate; where I have placed it upon the opposite shore of the encampment at Jerusalem. In the same plate, he is also presented with afair-weatherview of the camp at Java Creek.View of the Camp at the Java Creek.Barlow sculpt.View of the Camp at the Java Creek.View of the Encampment at Jerusalem.London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Paul’s Church Yard.The other tree, called the Markoory, is truly formidable[183]on account of its poisonous qualities, which are of such a subtle nature, that the very smoke of this wood, when on fire, is fatal to those animals that receive it into their lungs; this is always seen to grow by itself, as it infallibly kills every thing around it, nay even the slaves refuse to cut it down on the plantations, so much are they afraid of touching, or of even coming near to it. The Markoory is low, ugly, and uneven, with very few branches, and a pale verdure. I have been told that some of the Indians render their arrows fatal by dipping the barbs of them in its sap.On the 27th, another patrole was sent out, but to no better purpose than the first. I have mentioned that my foot was recovered, and so it was, but I had now extracted out of my right arm two dreadful insects, which left behind them very deep ulcers. These are called in Surinam thebush-worms, and are the shape and size of the aurelia of the common butterfly, with a pointed tail and black head. They stuck extremely fast in the flesh, and were extracted with a lancet. They breed naturally in stagnated waters, in marching constantly through which they had attached themselves to my flesh.My heart now began to sink with accumulated disasters; my mind was agitated and depressed with a constant train of tortures, to which I could see no end, and I became weary of life. In this dreadful situation I fell upon my naked knees, and invoked the malediction of Heaven to fall on me, if I did not separate myself from[184]my present commanders and this service, the first honourable opportunity that should offer itself;—how religiously I have persevered in observing this vow, shall be seen in the sequel of these pages, before I take my final farewell of my readers.The place of our present encampment was now intolerable beyond every description, being constantly overflowed, so that the ammunition and provisions were stowed for preservation on wooden rafts; nor could we step out of our hammocks without being up to the knees in mud and water, where it was most shallow, while the gnats and other insects devoured us alive. The consequence of all which was, thatanotherbarge full of dying wretches was sent down the Cormoetibo Creek, bound for the hospital at Devil’s Harwar; among whom the poor old negro with his fractured skull, who had only yesterday rejoined us in his shocking condition. This floatingcharnel-houseweighed anchor on the last day of the year 1775—with which I shall beg leave to conclude this gloomy chapter.[185]

On the 9th of October, 1775, Colonel Fourgeoud broke up the encampment at the Wana Creek to join us at Jerusalem, having sent down the half of his party sick in barges; and their number being greatly augmented by the invalids from this place, they were all together transported to receive thecoup-de-gracein the hospital at Devil’s Harwar. The rangers also took their leave, and marched, with Mr. Vinsack their conductor, to guard the Pirica River.

Fourgeoud, during his last cruize, had discovered a hundred empty houses, and seen some straggling rebels, but he had taken none. He had also found a scalp fixed to the branch of a tree, which we justly conjectured to be the remains of the unfortunateSchmidt, who was lost1.

On the 13th my black boy, Quaco, being perfectly recovered,[161]arrived, to my great satisfaction, as his fidelity to me was so steady and unshaken. At the same time we received an account that Captain Stoelman, with some rangers, had discovered a fresh settlement of the rebels by a great smoke appearing at a distance in the forest, but had not yet attacked them; that Captain Fredericy, with a party of black volunteers, was scouring the sea-side below Paramaribo; that the two men we had lost on the 18th of August had miraculously escaped, and found their way to the post at the river Marawina; and that no less than twelve fine negro slaves had just deserted from theGold Mineestate to join the rebels.

This news so much exasperated Colonel Fourgeoud, that the indefatigable man again determined to persevere in pursuing his enemies. We accordingly entered the woods very early on the morning of the 15th, although he and his little army were at this time greatly reduced. He buried but the evening before one of his countrymen, a volunteer, calledMatthew, and brother to the ensign: but death was now become so familiar to us, that upon losing a friend or relation, the first question generally was, “Has he left any brandy, rum, or tobacco?”—“Pauvre Laurant!” said I, to his shrivelled valet-de-chambre, “the brave Fourgeoud is like fire; he is to the colony an excellent servant indeed; but I think to both you and myself but a roughish master.” The poor fellow, shrugging up his shoulders, replied, with a grin and a heavy sigh, “Oui, par ma foi!” and then treated[162]me with a pinch of his snuff. I must not omit that, a little before our departure, seven more of our negro slaves did desert us, who went home to their masters perfectly broken-hearted, emaciated, and nearly starved; however, we proceeded, and marched directly N. E. during which nothing happened, except my box with all my bottles being dashed to pieces; and in the evening we encamped, thoughthenunknown to us, near the Cassipore Creek, where the dry season having commenced, we dug a pit for water. Orders were also issued to the troops no more to build huts, sheds, &c. as the rains were now less violent.

On the 16th we continued our route, marching N. E. as before, and towards the evening arrived at the houses which Colonel Fourgeoud had lately discovered, which proved since to be only a temporary settlement, erected by the rebels as a shelter or asylum in their expected retreat, before they were dislodged from Gado-Saby; and to this little settlement they had given the name ofBoossy Cry, that is, “the woods lament.” Here we encamped, and took much notice of Bonny’s house in particular, which was built like a watering machine, being elevated from the ground, with two doors, so that he might the better observe all around him, and prevent his being taken by surprize; it also had more air, and, of course, was better calculated for his health, he having in some late action received a very dangerous wound in the groin, as we afterwards learned from a rebel negro prisoner. Near to[163]Bonny’s house were the private baths, where his women washed themselves morning and evening, there being no river near this settlement.

In this encampment one of our slaves presented me with aland-turtle, which indeed we had met with several times before; but as I have never described this animal, I will now endeavour to give some account of it.—The land-turtle of Surinam is not more than eighteen or twenty inches in length, and of an oval form; the shell is more convex than that of the sea-turtle, and marked with thirteen elevated hexangular shields, dark brown and yellow, so hard that it will bear almost any weight without breaking; the under shell is a little concave, and of a light yellow: the head of this animal resembles that of other turtles; the tail is naked and short, but instead of fins or swimmers it has four feet covered with scales, and armed with sharp claws to assist it in crawling over the ground. When this poor creature sees any danger, it instantly shrinks within its shell. In this situation the Indians put it on the fire, where they broil it until it is drest, which is known by the under shell separating from the upper, which serves for a dish to hold the contents. A less barbarous way, and the way which I always followed, is only to provoke the animal by the heat of the embers to run away; when stretching out its head and neck, they are easily chopped off, and the food extracted without additional torture. I have known Mr. de Graaf keep three or four of these land-turtles for above four[164]months for transportation, during which time they lived without any apparent nourishment whatever, yet still remained vigorous, and even prone to copulation.

Another kind of land-turtle, called here thearlacacca, I have often seen; this is less in circumference, very flat, of a disagreeable greenish colour, and nothing like so good as the former.

On the 17th we continued our march N. and N. E. in hopes of more discoveries, but without success. We this day passed some ant-hillocks above six feet high, and, without exaggeration, above one hundred feet in circumference. We also saw great quantities of valuable timber, and, among the rest, theblack-cabbagetree, the wood of which is of a deep brown, and is in high estimation among carpenters and joiners. Thesand-bookertree was like-wise shewn me, which receives its name from the fruit, which being divested of its seed, is used as a sand-box by writers. It is of the shape of a large onion, with small holes in the surface; the seed is both laxative and emetic, but the juice of the pulp is a fatal poison. More than this I cannot say, having had neither the time nor the power of examining it with the accuracy of a professed botanist.

On the 18th we continued the same course for a few hours longer, when we found a beaten path, which, though circuitous, seemed to be a communication between Gado-Saby and Boossy-Cry. We followed this path, which led us due W. for a few hours, when a poor[165]rebel negro was found by me covered with branches of the manicole-tree, and indeed barely alive, being in appearance nothing but skin and bone, with one of his eyes almost beaten out of the socket. I put my bottle to his mouth, he swallowed a few drops of rum and water, and said with a faint voice, which we could scarcely hear, “Dank ye, me Massera!” but could articulate nothing more. Fourgeoud ordered this man to be carried with us in a hammock; and we soon afterwards encamped near a biree-biree swamp or quagmire. I ought not to forget that this day we saw some very finelocust-trees, being eighty or a hundred feet high, and prodigiously thick; the trunk is grey and very straight, with no branches till near the top, on which the leaves are disposed two to each stem: this is justly called the king of the forest, for a finer tree cannot be found. The timber is of a beautiful cinnamon-colour, and possesses everydesirablequality of gravity, polish, grain, and durability.—But what particularly attracted our notice was its seed, like beans, three or four in number, enclosed in a broad light-brown pod, that lay flattered in quantities at the root of the tree, upon the ground, and tasted like some kinds of gingerbread. From the root of this tree a gum exudes, which, properly prepared, affords a varnish hitherto unequalled for transparency and effect.

Innumerable indeed are the various fine trees that this country produces, and which may be had for the cutting; yet, when we consider the distance they usually grow from navigable rivers, the great labour in felling and[166]working them, the vast number of slaves required to drag them through the forest, where no horses can be employed, besides the danger and loss of time, we may easily account for the enormous price generally paid for the best timber in Guiana.

This march undoubtedly afforded us the most enchanting prospects that can be imagined, in a luxuriant and ever-green forest, while the dry season contributed greatly to beautify the scene; and simple nature by far outshone the most strenuous endeavours of art. Here we met with immense savannas of the most lovely verdure, interspersed with meandring brooks of water, cool and clear as rock crystal; their borders adorned with flowers of every lively hue and fragrance. In some places we observed small clumps of elegant shrubs, or perhaps a single tree, whose beauty would almost induce one to think they had been designedly left growing to enrich the scene. The whole surrounded by a vast wood of lofty palm-trees, waving their sea-green foliage above the variegated copse of never-fading verdure, blossom, and fruit, as if to invite the panting wanderer under its cooling shade, till in the later hours he might enjoy the bracing pleasures of the limpid flood, and contemplate nature’s beauties undisturbed.—When universal silence reigned every where around, how often have I thought on mydear friend, and wished with her to glide through life in these Elysian fields!—But I must wave the pleasing recollection.

On the 19th we again marched, and fell in with our[167]old path, which we followed, leading directly to the fields of Gado-Saby, where quantities of rice once more appeared in full bloom, which we cut down and burned to ashes. Here, perceiving the poor rebel negro hopeless of recovery, not absolutely to bury him alive, he was overspread with moss, leaves, and green boughs; after which we slung our hammocks, being almost choaked with smoke.

In these fields I saw a lizard above two feet long, which the negro slaves killed and ate: they called itsapagala, it was of a brownish green colour, but did not resemble the iguana. Among the ruins of the consumed town we discovered somescolopendras, or centipedes, no less than eight or ten inches in length; this odious reptile is of a yellowish-brown colour, walks very fast backwards or forwards, and bites so severely, that the venom it infuses, though not deemed fatal, generally produces a fever. Some writers assign this reptile twenty pair of legs, others forty; I never reckoned them, and can only observe, that they appeared to me exactly to resemble the centipedes in Europe. Some of our gentlemen formed large collections of these curiosities, which were very valuable, whilst I contented myself with the drawings and descriptions only of those I thought most uncommon.

On the 20th, we marched to visitCofaay, when I perceiving the unhappy negro captive still alive; after removing the branches, he was, at my earnest intercession, once more carried along with us; but the slaves, being[168]discontented with such a load, took every opportunity, in my absence, of torturing him, by knocking him against roots and stones, and dragging him through mud and water as they went along. Different patroles were now ordered out to reconnoitre the grounds, while the remainder of the troops encamped in thewestpart of Cofaay; and these patroles discovered no less than four beautiful fields in one chain, situated due west from Cofaay, well stocked with cassava, yams, plantains, pistachio nuts, with maize and pigeon peas: also were seen several human carcases, the relicts of our late engagements in August. We found here a species ofmedlarsof a crimson colour, and of a taste very much like that of strawberries. This fruit grows on a large green shrub, and is cultivated in many gardens at Paramaribo. We also met with a kind of wild plum-tree calledmonpe: the fruit is yellow, oblong, and small; the stone is large, the pulp thin, and though of a sharp acid has an agreeable flavour.

On the morning of the 21st, all these and every useful vegetable were cut down, and again destroyed by fire; after which, returning to our last night’s camp, we found it also in flames, and were obliged to sling our hammocks in theeastskirts of the woods. Here, recollecting that the poor disabled rebel was left alone, I ran backwestto the burning camp to afford him assistance; but after seeking him in vain through clouds of smoke and darkness, I was forced to consult my own safety, by hastily returning[169]to my companions; some blaming me much for my temerity, others damning theskeleton, whether dead or alive.

The devastation being now compleated, we marched back to Jerusalem, where on the 24th we arrived perfectly exhausted, and Fourgeoud at last so ill with a phrenzy fever, that he was confined to his hammock, with small hopes of surviving the night. But he however still continued to command, and the next morning ordered a marine to be bastonaded, for asking shoes, although he was bare-footed, and his feet tore to pieces; while another was flogged for coughing, who had a severe cold; a captain was dismissed from actual service, and confined in Fort Zealandia, for having dared to marry without his consent.—Sickness and death now raged through the camp, and every thing was in the utmost confusion.

To compleat the whole, on the 1st of November, twenty-five more negro slaves ran away; and on the 3d we received intelligence that no less than fifty armed rebels had been seen swimming across the River Cottica, about a musket-shot above Barbacoeba.

In consequence of this information, Colonel Seyburg was detached, with the few men that remained able to carry arms, who through distress and famine were now almost ready to attack their own officers; and who being unsupplied with their favourite luxury, tobacco2, sat[170]smoking grey paper, and chewing leaves and leather as a substitute for the want of it. Few men, however, were worse off than I was at this time; since, having neither provisions nor cloaths, I was almost naked as well as starved, with a running ulcer in my left foot, ever since the ambuscade and march to Pirica; nor had I a friend in the camp who could give me the smallest assistance. To compleat my misery, the little blood I had remaining was intwosuccessive nights again nearly sucked away by the vampire-bat, or spectre: thus I fainted away in my hammock, and was almost sorry to recover, particularly upon being informed by a letter that Joanna and her boy were dying with a putrid fever at Paramaribo.

At last, on the 12th, Serjeant Fowler arrived fromMocha, withoneof my boxes; when this poor fellow, notwithstanding my situation, made me laugh aloud by producing a letter from his mother in Europe, which made him extremely happy; and which I must beg leaveverbatimto transcribe.

“Dair Shonny,“I have relaved your girl from the Bridevail—and your shits from the panbroker—the baby is died—blessed be Goat, while I hop yow be living. I am your laffing mother tell death,Maggy Fowler.”

“Dair Shonny,

“I have relaved your girl from the Bridevail—and your shits from the panbroker—the baby is died—blessed be Goat, while I hop yow be living. I am your laffing mother tell death,

Maggy Fowler.”

The same evening Colonel Seyburg’s party returned, without having obtained any further intelligence.

On the 14th Colonel Fourgeoud was so dangerously[171]ill, that he at length was obliged to relinquish his command, and proceed to town for his recovery. Accordingly on the 15th, he set out by water for Paramaribo: thus, after having sacrificed all his troops, he became himself finally a victim to his unbounded ambition and obstinate perseverance in this worst of all climates, while by toiling less and living better both he and his soldiers might have rendered the colony, if not superior, at least an equal service.—A barge loaded with sick and dying was at the same time once more sent to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar.

The command of the remaining scarecrows now devolved upon the Lieutenant Colonel, who (strange to tell!) that very evening inherited thesamedistemper, as well as the chief command; the barge that rowed off the old hero having but just disappeared, when this gentleman was attacked also by the phrenzy fever; the above complaint was indeed at this time very common amongst all ranks and degrees who were broiling under a burning sun at Jerusalem; it being the dry season, when we ought to have been in the woods—but for those expeditions, as I have stated before, the rainy seasons were most unhappily preferred. Several officers would have before now thrown up their military commissions, could they with decency have taken such a measure, during an expedition on actual service; nor, in my opinion, ought such to be granted, cases of the very greatest necessity excepted. I could myself have wished to go for some time to Paramaribo,[172]but as this favour was not offered me, while all the others, and even the slaves, were relieved, I scorned to petition for it while I was able to stand.

On the 19th, however, my foot became so bad, that the surgeon reported me unfit for duty; yet I still remained in the camp, where I could be to none of any service.

A supply of fresh troops, slaves, and provisions being arrived on the 20th, Major Medlar, with 150 men, was detached to make new discoveries.

Among other plagues, the whole camp at this time swarmed withlocusts, which appeared every where in most formidable troops, devouring every thing that lay in their way. Indeed the curse of Heaven seemed to visit us here in various shapes, and every vermin were so plenty at this time, that no exertion could keep us perfectly free. These locusts were brown, two inches in length, and shaped like a grasshopper; they did not fly, but crawled by millions on the very tables and seats as we sat at dinner, and at night they tormented us by crawling over our faces by scores.

The only desirable article we found at Jerusalem was fish, of which we seldom wanted plenty, particularlynewmaraandwarrappa, also thepatakee, and theold wifee, both very excellent; the former of which is about two feet long, shaped like a whiting, the other is the size of a large perch. A kind of needle-fish, callednaaynaay-fisee, was found here in great abundance, these were very thin, and about one foot in length; also a kind of[173]dung-fish, about the size of a small herring, but these two last were only used by the negroes.

On the 3d of December, Major Medlar’s party returned, after fourteen days absence, with a captive rebel woman and her boy about eight years old, taken in a small field of bitter cassava. The poor woman was pregnant, and under great alarms, but was tenderly treated by Medlar, who was always a humane and well-disposed gentleman. He had, however, unluckily lost two of his best men, oneSchoelar, a corporal, the other calledPhilip Van den Bos, a private marine, who having inadvertently eaten a few roots of the abovebitter cassavawere poisoned, and died during the same night with the most excruciating pain and convulsions: the antidote is said to be Cayenne pepper and spirits, neither of which were at that time to be procured.

The black woman confirmed the account that Bonny had been wounded; she also told us the poor starved negro we had found was calledIsaac, and had been left for dead. That one CaptainAricohad formed a new settlement near the sea, calledFissy-Hollo; while Bonny, she assured us, maintained the strictest discipline amongst his troops: he was, she said, absolutely despotic, and had executed two of his men but three days before we took Gado-Saby,viz.during the night of the 17th August, when we heard the firing and shouting, only upon suspicion of having hinted some few words in favour of the Europeans, and were the heads which we found stuck[174]on the stakes. She further assured us, that none of his people were trusted with arms, until they had first served him some years as slaves, and given him unquestionable proofs of fidelity and resolution. But these, she observed, were but few in number, when compared to his numerous vassals, who were bound to do without murmuring whatever he thought proper to command them; yet that hestillwas more beloved than he was feared, on account of his inflexible justice and manly courage.

On the 4th December, this poor woman and her boy were sent to Paramaribo, with EnsigndeCabanus, who had taken them: he had at the same time nearly seized a young girl about fifteen, who by her great agility, and being stark naked, slipped out of his hands:

——“Fugit ocior aurâIlla levi: neque ad hæc revocantis verba resistit:Nympha, precor, Peneia, mane: non insequor hostis.Nympha, mane.”——

——“Fugit ocior aurâ

Illa levi: neque ad hæc revocantis verba resistit:

Nympha, precor, Peneia, mane: non insequor hostis.

Nympha, mane.”——

Ovid.

It being proved at the court that the above woman had been forcibly carried off by the rebels, though many years before, the poor creature was pardoned, and joyfully returned with her child to her master’s plantation. It is remarkable, that when the boy saw the first cow or horse he almost fell into convulsions with terror; nor could he bear to be touched by any white person, whom[175]he never had seen before, and whom he constantly calledYorica, which in his language signifies the devil.

About this time a dead sea-cow, ormanatee, by the French calledLamantin, floating past Jerusalem, the negro slaves fell upon it, like so many crows upon a carrion, swimming round it, some with a rusty knife, some with a bill-hook, and each carrying off a slice for his dinner; at last they dragged the stinking animal on shore, of which I instantly took a drawing. This manatee was exactly sixteen feet long, almost shapeless, being an enormous lump of fat, tapering backwards to a fleshy, broad, horizontal tail. It had a thick round head, a flattish snout, large nostrils, with strong bristles both on its nose and chin, small eyes, and auditory holes instead of ears. Instead of feet, it had two excrescences or fleshy fins, like those of the sea-turtle, projecting near its head; with these it swims, and moves awkwardly to eat the grass on the banks of the rivers, being an amphibious animal. The colour was a greenish black; the skin was hard and uneven, covered with large knobs, circular wrinkles, and with a very few stiff hairs thinly scattered. It had grinders but no fore-teeth, and a very short tongue. The sea-cow or manatee is, like the whale, a viviparous animal, the female suckling its young by the help of its swimmers. They are very numerous in the river Amazons; their flesh, it is said, resembles veal, and is very good food. This was, however, too far advanced in a state of putridity, for me to taste it. It had the marks of being[176]twice shot, which must have been by the rebels on the 27th, when we heard the report of two muskets at a distance.

As I am once more on the subject of natural history, I shall describe another amphibious animal, called thetapira, which bears some distant resemblance to the hippopotamus of the old continent, but it is a great deal less. This creature is about the size of a small ass, but much more clumsy. The head is not unlike that of a horse, but the upper lip much longer, projecting something like the proboscis of an elephant, and is also moveable, but too short to be of use, as is the trunk of that animal; the ears are short, the tusks strong, and sometimes visible, the mane is bristly and erect, the limbs are low and strong, with a kind of hoof divided into four claws, and the tail is thick and short, like that of the elephant. The skin of this creature is excessively thick, of a brown colour, and when young it is marked with white spots, like those of the stag or paca, proceeding in longitudinal rows. It feeds on grass, and other herbs that grow in watery places, and is so shy, that when alarmed by the smallest noise it plunges under water, also like the paca, for security, where it remains for a considerable time. The flesh of the tapira is delicate, being accounted superior to the best ox-beef.—See both the above animals in the annexed plate.

The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.Barlow sculp.The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.The Manati, or Sea Cow of Guiana.London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.

Barlow sculp.

The Tapir, or Hippopotamus of South America.

The Manati, or Sea Cow of Guiana.

London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Pauls Church Yard.

A Mr.Selefelder, of the Society service, at this time assured me, that he saw quite a different river-horse in the[177]River Marawina; and MajorAbercromby, of the same service, declared, that amermaidwas lately seen in the River Surinam. LordMonboddoalso positively affirms the existence of sea-women and sea-men, while he asserts that they were seen so late as 1720. But, however respectable his lordship’s judgment and authority may be on other subjects, I can no more agree with him, as to men and women having fins and scales, than to their havingtails.

The plain fact, in my humble opinion, is this, that in many rivers between the Tropics, both on the coast of Africa and South America, a fish sometimes appears half above the water, that bears a distant resemblance of the human species, but is smaller, nearly such as in 1794 was exhibited in London. The colour is of a blackish green; the head is round, with a deformed kind of a face; a strong fin runs from near the eyes to the middle of the back, which something resembles flowing hair: and the two supposed arms and hands, are two fleshy fins, or rather digitated swimmers; the female has breasts assuredly like a woman’s, being a viviparous animal; while the tail is exactly that of a fish, in most of which properties it agrees with the seal, but this last has no fin along the back, and is considerably larger, while it never appears erect above the water, like the former. The above information I had from several old negroes and Indians, who all agreed perfectly in the description; some added, that they sang, which I apprehend to be no other than a[178]grunting noise which they emit like most other tropical fish and amphibious animals.

They concluded by assuring me, that though they were scarce, nothing was more dreaded by their wives and children, than theWatra Mama, which signifies the mother of the waters; and by which name, strange to tell, they distinguish theirSybils.—So much for themonstersof the deep; and now I shall once more return to those infesting Terra Firma.

I have just mentioned, that, on account of a very bad foot, I had been returned unfit for duty by the surgeon, on the 19th of November; yet this day, December 5th, another surgeon, with two captains, and the adjutant, were sent to inspect bothmeand CaptainPerret, who was also sick. The surgeon gave his declarationupon oath, that we were incapable of walking without danger, much more of undergoing fatigue; but Seyburg, who was still in his phrenzy fever, declared we should instantly enter the woods, though he should see us carried in twowheel-barrows. Poor Captain Perret complied to turn out, though he looked like a ghost, and could scarcely stand; but I solemnly swore that I would blow out the first man’s brains who dareddisrespectfullyto touch me: in consequence of which I was close guarded by a sentinel; while the whole camp, upon my soul, now seemed to be composed of none but madmen.

On the 11th we received intelligence that a number of armed rebels had been just seen opposite to Devil’s Harwar,[179]and afterwards informed they were upon their retreat from the Comawina River, where on the 5th they had burnt to ashes the dwelling-house of the estateKillestyn Nova, with Mr.Slighterthe overseerin it, ransacked the whole plantation, killed and carried off thirty-three women, and chopped off the limb of a male mulatto child, to be revenged of its father; and that the Pirica rangers were in pursuit of them. Captain Fredericy also arrived this day, who had exchanged from the Society troops into Colonel Fourgeoud’s regiment of marines, and confirmed to us the above unhappy news.

About this time, after having starved four months, my remaining stores arrived at last from Mocha, but three-fourths rotted and destroyed by theblataor cockroaches: the remaining part I distributed among the sick people. But what proved truly acceptable, was the cheering account thatJoannaandJohnnywere past danger, and recovering at Paramaribo. This intelligence indeed so elevated my spirits, that the next morning I reported myself fit for duty, though God knows that I was not; and to this I was the more induced by the want of fresh air, of which I was perfectly debarred in my confinement, and stood so much in need. The same evening a boat full of Caribbee Indians rowed up Cormoetibo, for the River Marawina, by the communication of the Wana Creek.

In eight days more, which was the 20th of December, being actually recovered of the wound in my foot, and Seyburg of his phrenetic fever, another officer and I played him the following trick, for his bad usage.[180]Having invited this gentleman, with his adjutant, and a few more, to see us act a farce by candle-light, we affected to quarrel, and beating out the candle, the door being well secured, laid on in the dark with such success upon a certain somebody’s shoulders, that, calling out Murder! he leaped out at the window. Nothing ever gave me greater entertainment than to perceive his agility; but Colonel Seyburg declared he would never more toour playbe a spectator.

At this time orders arrived from Colonel Fourgeoud, who was also better, to break up our camp at Jerusalem, and march once more to the Wana Creek. In consequence the sick were again sent down in barges to the hospital at Devil’s Harwar, which was nearly full, while several were labouring under a disease something like thetympany, called here thekook, being a prodigious hardness and swelling in the belly, occasioned, it is said, by drinking muddy water without spirits, which was indeed our daily and general beverage.

On the 22d, at six o’clock in the morning, we all decamped, and scrambled up along the banks of the Cormoetibo Creek, through a perfect bog, while one poor negro, who had his head fractured, was left behind, and another knocked over-board one of the barges, who was drowned.

We this day again saw great numbers of pingoes or warree-hogs, which as usual breaking through our line, were cut down by sabres and stabbed, while some ran off with the bayonets sticking in their hams.[181]

This march was peculiarly disagreeable, upon account of the heavy rains, which now began to fall down in torrents, overflowing the banks of all the rivers; and so cold were the damps in the morning, contrasted with the late warm days, that we frequently lay shivering in our hammocks as in frost, especially when sleeping in wet cloaths. This inconvenience, however, I obviated to day by marching half naked, like the rangers, and putting my shirt in one of the reversed kettles, during the rain—thus my skin soon drying, after a shower, I again put on my linen, and found myself much more comfortable than any of my trembling ghastly looking companions.

On the evening of the 23d, we encamped near a rivulet called theCaymansor Alligator Creek; where a tree calledMonbiaraafforded some excellent fruit, but this was entirely stripped by the slaves before I could either taste or even see it in perfection.

The rains continuing to pour down in a deluge, I again marched stripped on the 24th, and we slung our hammocks in the evening, near a brook calledYorica, or the Devil’s Creek, where we made huts or sheds to cover us, and stowed the provisions upon rafters.

On the following day we once more laboured through deep mud and water, in very heavy rains, and encamped at another small brook, called theJava Creek, three miles below the Wana.

On the 26th I was selected, with a small party, to reconnoitre the old camps at Wana Creek. In the evening[182]we returned, half swimming through mud and water, and having literally seen nothing, except some birds and curious trees, which I cannot pass unnoticed. The birds were called theCromback, theCamawarry, and theCrocro. The first is a kind of large snipe, the size of a woodcock, with a crooked bill. The second is also a water fowl, but three times as large as the first: on account of their swiftness, and disappearing in a moment, I can give but a very imperfect description of them. TheCrocrois something less than our ravens, and I believe of the same species, being one of the most voracious birds of the carnivorous tribe; in Guiana it is of a dark blue colour, has a remarkably strong bill and limbs, and croaks excessively loud and disagreeably, especially by night. The trees were what the negroes called theMatakee, and theMarkoory. The first is remarkable for its roots, which spread above the ground in such a manner, that they will conceal a score of men from each other; nay so large are they sometimes, that a horseman may ride through between the interstices, and one single piece is sufficient to make a table large enough to hold twelve people.

For a better idea of this wonderful tree, I refer the reader to the annexed plate; where I have placed it upon the opposite shore of the encampment at Jerusalem. In the same plate, he is also presented with afair-weatherview of the camp at Java Creek.

View of the Camp at the Java Creek.Barlow sculpt.View of the Camp at the Java Creek.View of the Encampment at Jerusalem.London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Paul’s Church Yard.

Barlow sculpt.

View of the Camp at the Java Creek.

View of the Encampment at Jerusalem.

London, Published Decr. 1st, 1791, by J. Johnson, St. Paul’s Church Yard.

The other tree, called the Markoory, is truly formidable[183]on account of its poisonous qualities, which are of such a subtle nature, that the very smoke of this wood, when on fire, is fatal to those animals that receive it into their lungs; this is always seen to grow by itself, as it infallibly kills every thing around it, nay even the slaves refuse to cut it down on the plantations, so much are they afraid of touching, or of even coming near to it. The Markoory is low, ugly, and uneven, with very few branches, and a pale verdure. I have been told that some of the Indians render their arrows fatal by dipping the barbs of them in its sap.

On the 27th, another patrole was sent out, but to no better purpose than the first. I have mentioned that my foot was recovered, and so it was, but I had now extracted out of my right arm two dreadful insects, which left behind them very deep ulcers. These are called in Surinam thebush-worms, and are the shape and size of the aurelia of the common butterfly, with a pointed tail and black head. They stuck extremely fast in the flesh, and were extracted with a lancet. They breed naturally in stagnated waters, in marching constantly through which they had attached themselves to my flesh.

My heart now began to sink with accumulated disasters; my mind was agitated and depressed with a constant train of tortures, to which I could see no end, and I became weary of life. In this dreadful situation I fell upon my naked knees, and invoked the malediction of Heaven to fall on me, if I did not separate myself from[184]my present commanders and this service, the first honourable opportunity that should offer itself;—how religiously I have persevered in observing this vow, shall be seen in the sequel of these pages, before I take my final farewell of my readers.

The place of our present encampment was now intolerable beyond every description, being constantly overflowed, so that the ammunition and provisions were stowed for preservation on wooden rafts; nor could we step out of our hammocks without being up to the knees in mud and water, where it was most shallow, while the gnats and other insects devoured us alive. The consequence of all which was, thatanotherbarge full of dying wretches was sent down the Cormoetibo Creek, bound for the hospital at Devil’s Harwar; among whom the poor old negro with his fractured skull, who had only yesterday rejoined us in his shocking condition. This floatingcharnel-houseweighed anchor on the last day of the year 1775—with which I shall beg leave to conclude this gloomy chapter.[185]

1This was the more surprising, as we were at peace with all theIndians, and scalping was never practised by thenegroes.↑2All sailors, soldiers, and negroes are particularly miserable without tobacco: it keeps up their spirits, they say, and somealmostprefer it to bread.↑

1This was the more surprising, as we were at peace with all theIndians, and scalping was never practised by thenegroes.↑2All sailors, soldiers, and negroes are particularly miserable without tobacco: it keeps up their spirits, they say, and somealmostprefer it to bread.↑

1This was the more surprising, as we were at peace with all theIndians, and scalping was never practised by thenegroes.↑

1This was the more surprising, as we were at peace with all theIndians, and scalping was never practised by thenegroes.↑

2All sailors, soldiers, and negroes are particularly miserable without tobacco: it keeps up their spirits, they say, and somealmostprefer it to bread.↑

2All sailors, soldiers, and negroes are particularly miserable without tobacco: it keeps up their spirits, they say, and somealmostprefer it to bread.↑

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