Abreast of Wednesday, Hammond, and Good's Islands, is the NORTH-WEST REEF, an extensive coral bank, many parts of which are dry; it is ten or eleven miles long; the channel between it and the islands is from one mile and three-quarters to two miles and a quarter wide.
BOOBY ISLAND (latitude of its centre 10 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 141 degrees 52 minutes 50 seconds) is a small rocky islet of scarcely a third of a mile in diameter; its south-west end has a shoal projecting from it for half a mile, but its other sides are bold to. In a North 70 degrees East direction from it, at the distance of two miles and three-quarters, is a sandbank with three fathoms; it was discovered by the ships Claudine and Mary, on their passage through Torres Strait, when it was named LARPENT'S BANK.*
(*Footnote. It is near the west end of a shoal of five miles in length, extending in an east and west direction, a few feet only below the surface of the water. Roe manuscript.)
DESCRIPTION OF THE WINDS AND WEATHER, AND OF THE PORTS AND COAST BETWEEN WESSEL'S ISLANDS AND CLARENCE STRAIT.
In the sea that separates the land of New Guinea and the islands of Timor Laut and Arroo from the north coast of Australia, the winds are periodical, and are called the east and west monsoons, for such is their direction in the mid-sea. Near the Coast of New Holland the regularity of these winds is partly suspended by the rarefied state of the atmosphere; this produces land and sea-breezes, but the former are principally from the quarter from which the winds are blowing in the mid sea. The usual course of the winds near the coast in the months of April, May, and June, is as follows: after a calm night, the land-wind springs up at daylight from South or South-South-East; it then usually freshens, but, as the sun gets higher, and the land becomes heated, gradually decreases. At noon the sea-wind rushes in towards the land, and generally blows fresh from East; at sunset it veers to the North-East, and falls calm, which lasts the whole night, so that if a ship, making a course, does not keep at a moderate distance from the land, she is subject to delay; she would not, however, probably have so fresh a breeze in the day time. Later in the season of the easterly monsoon, in August, September, and October, calms are frequent, and the heat is sultry and oppressive; this weather sometimes lasts for a fortnight or three weeks at a time. The easterly monsoon commences about the 1st of April, with squally, rainy weather, but, in a week or ten days, settles to fine weather and steady winds in the offing, and regular land and sea breezes, as above described, near the coast. It ceases about the latter end of November or early part of December; the westerly monsoon may then be expected to blow strong, and perhaps with regularity. This is the rainy season, and is doubtless an unwholesome time; Captain Flinders' crew experienced much sickness in his examination of the Gulf of Carpentaria during this monsoon, but, when upon the western side of the gulf, he thought that the fine weather then experienced might be occasioned by the monsoon's blowing over the land. In January and February the monsoon is at its strength, but declines towards the end of the latter month, and in March becomes variable, with dark, cloudy, and unsettled weather; the wind is then generally from the South-West, but not at all regular.
The current sets with the wind, and seldom exceeds a knot or a knot and a half per hour; between Capes Wessel and Van Diemen it is not stronger, and its course in the easterly monsoon, when only we had any experience of it, was West: the strength is probably increased or diminished by the state of the wind.
The tides are of trifling consequence; the flood comes from the eastward, but rarely rises more than ten feet, or runs so much as a mile and a half per hour. High water takes place at full and change at Liverpool River, and Goulburn Island at six o'clock, at the entrance of the Alligator Rivers in Van Diemen's Gulf, at 8 hours 15 minutes, and at the south end of Apsley Strait at 3 hours 25 minutes.* The flood-tide comes from the eastward, excepting when its course is altered by local circumstances; the rise is not more than eleven feet at the springs.
(*Footnote. In St. Asaph's Bay, Lieutenant Roe found high-water take place at full and change at 5 hours 45 minutes; and in King's Cove at 5 hours 15 minutes; at the latter place it rose fourteen feet.)
The variation of the compass in this interval is scarcely affected by the ship's local attraction. Off Cape Wessel it is between 3 and 4 degrees East; at Liverpool River about 1 3/4 degrees East, at Goulburn Islands 2 degrees East, and off Cape Van Diemen, not more than 1 1/2 degrees East.
The dip of the south end of the needle at Goulburn Island was 27 degrees 32 1/2 minutes.
When the survey of the Gulf of Carpentaria was completed by Captain Flinders, his vessel proved to be so unfit for continuing the examination of the north coast, that it was found necessary to return to Port Jackson; and as he left it at the strait that separates Point Dale from Wessel's Islands, which is called in my chart BROWN'S STRAIT, he saw no part of the coast to the westward of that point, nor did he even see Cape Wessel, the extremity of the range of Wessel's Islands, which terminate in latitude 10 degrees 59 1/4 minutes, and longitude 135 degrees 46 minutes 30 seconds. The group consists of four islands, besides some of smaller size to the southward of the northernmost, and also a few on the eastern side of Brown's Strait; one of which is Cunningham's Island, of Captain Flinders. CUMBERLAND STRAIT is in latitude 11 degrees 25 minutes, longitude 135 degrees 31 minutes.
POINT DALE, unless it is upon an island, appears to be the east extremity of the north coast; its latitude is 11 degrees 36 minutes, longitude 135 degrees 9 minutes: there are several rocky islands of small size, lying off, encompassed by a reef, which extends for eight miles North-North-East 1/2 East from the point. In Brown's Strait the tide sets at the rate of three and a half and four miles per hour; the flood runs to the southward through the strait. To the westward of Point Dale the coast extends for about sixty miles to the south-west to Castlereagh Bay; in which space there are several openings in the beach, that are probably small rivers: one, ten miles to the South-West, may be a strait insulating Point Dale, and communicating with Arnhem Bay.
CASTLEREAGH BAY is forty miles wide, by about eighteen deep; it is fronted by a group of straggling islands of low coral formation, crowned with small trees and bushes: the centre of the northernmost islet is in latitude 11 degrees 41 minutes 50 seconds, longitude 134 degrees 10 minutes 5 seconds. To the eastward of Cape Stewart, the western head of the bay, the coast is very much indented, and probably contains several openings or rivulets, particularly two at the bottom of the bay. The beach is generally sandy, with rocky points, and the shore is wooded to the beach; the interior was in no part visible over the coast hills, which are very low and level. From the extremity of CAPE STEWART, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 48 minutes, a reef extends to the West by North 1/2 North for eight miles and a half; having, at a mile within the extremity, a low sandy key, with a small dry rock half a mile to the eastward. Every other part of the reef is covered.
To the westward of Cape Stewart is a sandy bay nearly eleven leagues in extent, but not more than seven deep; near its western end there is a small break in the beach, but it did not appear to be of any consequence.
The extreme point of this bight is the eastern head of LIVERPOOL RIVER, whose entrance is to the westward of Haul-round Islet; which, as well as Entrance Island, is connected to the above point by a shoal. Haul-round Islet is in latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes; Entrance Island is in latitude 11 degrees 57 minutes, and longitude 134 degrees 14 minutes 50 seconds. The entrance is from one and a quarter to two miles wide. The reef extends for half a mile from Haul-round Islet, close without which the water is deep, the least depth in the entrance is five and three-quarter fathoms; and, in some parts there are thirteen and fourteen fathoms: at seven miles within Haul-round Islet, the depth decreases to four fathoms, and then gradually shoals to three; after which it varies in the channel of the river to between nine and twelve feet at low water. A bar crosses the river at the low mangrove island, over which there is not more than three feet at low water; but, as the tide rises more than eight feet at the springs, vessels drawing ten or eleven feet may proceed up the river.
The stream runs in a very tortuous course for upwards of forty miles, but as our examination was unassisted by bearings or observations, it is laid down from an eye sketch. POINT BRAITHWAITE, in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes 50 seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 55 minutes 20 seconds, is twenty miles to the westward of Haul-round Islet; to the southward of it is Junction Bay, which was not examined. For the next thirty miles the coast is very much indented, and has some deep bays on either side of Point Barclay, as also one to the eastward of Point Turner, at the bottom of which an opening, a mile in width, is probably a river. Here also the feature of the coast is altered, being low and level to the eastward as far as Point Dale, without a hill or rising ground in the interior to relieve its monotonous appearance. At this place, however, a range of rocky hills, WELLINGTON RANGE, commences, of about twenty miles in extent: five miles behind it is the Tor (latitude 11 degrees 54 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds) a solitary pyramidal rock; and seven miles and a quarter West by South, from the latter is a peak-topped hill.
The two latter are apparently unconnected with the range, on which there are four remarkable ridges, of which the two westernmost are the most remarkable.
GOULBURN ISLANDS consist of two islands, each being about twenty miles in circumference; they are separated from each other by a rocky strait three miles wide, which in most parts is deep enough for a ship of any size to pass through; the latitude of the centre of this strait is 11 degrees 32 minutes. Macquarie Strait separates the southernmost from the main, and is nearly two miles across: the depth in mid-channel being eighteen fathoms: the latitude of Retaliation Point, which is on the northern side of the strait, is in 11 degrees 39 minutes.
SOUTH WEST BAY affords good anchorage in five and six fathoms at a mile from the shore, and vessels may anchor at a quarter of a mile off the beach in three fathoms muddy bottom. At the north end of the bay are the Bottle Rocks separated from the point by a channel two and a quarter fathoms deep. The Bottle Rock was one of our fixed points, and is placed in latitude 11 degrees 37 minutes 24 seconds, and longitude 133 degrees 19 minutes 40 seconds. The bay affords a convenient place for wooding and watering; the latter may be had during the early months of the dry season (as late as August) from a drain at the base of the Pipe Clay Cliffs at the north end of the bay. There are also some holes on Sims Island that contain water for a much later period. The holes have been made by the Malays for the purpose of collecting it.
MULLET BAY is on the west side of the north island, affording good anchorage in the easterly monsoon in six and seven fathoms mud, at a mile from the shore. The flood-tide here sets to the eastward, and it is high water at full and change in the strait at six o'clock; the rise of the tide is not more than five or six feet. The north-east point of North Goulburn Island is in latitude 11 degrees 26 minutes, longitude 133 degrees 26 minutes.
From Macquarie Strait the land trends to the westward, and north-westward to De Courcy Head, and forms but few sinuosities. POINT BROGDEN, in latitude 11 degrees 30 minutes, the only projection in this space, is remarkable for being higher than usual, and for having a range of cliffs to the southward of the point; with a solitary tree near its extremity, hence the land is rocky towards De Courcy Head, which is a cliffy projection in latitude 11 degrees 17 minutes 30 seconds; thence the shore continues rocky to Cape Cockburn, a low rocky point, with a conspicuous tree at its extremity. The point is wooded to within a short distance of the sea, as is generally the case with the shores of this coast. CAPE COCKBURN is in latitude 11 degrees 18 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 53 minutes 5 seconds.
MOUNTNORRIS BAY extends between Cape Cockburn and Cape Croker, it is twenty-eight miles wide, and twenty-three deep. It contains several islands, and is also fronted by a group, of which New Year's Island, the latitude of whose centre is 10 degrees 55 minutes, and longitude 133 degrees 0 minutes 36 seconds, is the outermost; the others are named Oxley, Lawson, McCluer, Grant, Templer, and Cowlard. They are straggling, and have wide and apparently deep channels between them. Between New Year's and McCluer's Islands, the channel is nearly eight miles wide and eighteen and nineteen fathoms deep. A reef extends off the north-west end of the latter island for nearly three miles, and the ground is rocky and shoal for some distance off the north-east end of Oxley's Island. Grant's Island is higher than the others, which are merely small woody islets, the centre is in 11 degrees 10 minutes. At the north-east end of Mountnorris Bay is MALAY BAY which is four miles wide and six deep; it affords good anchorage in four and five fathoms in the centre: as it offered no other inducement, we did not land upon any part of it. Between Valentia Island and Point Annesley, the channel is more than a mile wide and four fathoms deep. VALENTIA ISLAND has a reef off its north point, and another off its south-east point, each about a mile in extent.
COPELAND ISLAND is small and wedge-shaped, its summit is in latitude 11 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 132 degrees 43 minutes; four miles and a quarter West-North-West from it is a covered sandbank having nine feet water near its edge; it was not quite certain whether it was joined to the land or not, from which it is distant two miles and a half.
On the western side of the bay there is a strait two miles wide separating Croker's Island from the main; it is ten or eleven miles in length, and is navigable since the Malay fleet were observed to pass through it.
CROKER'S ISLAND is twenty-one miles and a quarter from north to south, and from two to five broad, its northern extremity is in 10 degrees 58 minutes 30 seconds latitude, and 132 degrees 34 minutes 10 seconds longitude; about three-quarters of a mile within it there is a remarkable rocky knob: its south extreme is in 11 degrees 19 1/4 minutes.
PALM BAY, on its western side, is an excellent anchorage in the easterly monsoon; it is four miles and a half wide, and nearly three deep. The shore is rocky for a mile off, and the south point has a rocky shoal projecting to the West-North-West for a mile and a quarter.
DARCH'S ISLAND is separated from Croker's Island by a navigable strait two miles wide; near the reef at the north-east end we had six fathoms, but in mid-channel the depth was as much as eleven fathoms. A considerable reef projects off the east end for more than a mile. The island is about two miles and three-quarters long, and is thickly wooded; its north point is in latitude 11 degrees 7 minutes 30 seconds.
RAFFLES BAY forms a good port during any season; it is seven miles deep, and from two to three broad: beyond High Point the depth is not more than three fathoms and a half. The anchorage is however quite safe.
The bay to the eastward of Point Smith, which has a reef extending from it for nearly a mile, has a shoal opening at its bottom of very little importance. At the north-east end of the bay, separated from the point by a channel a mile wide, and more than five fathoms deep, is a small sandy island, with a reef extending for a mile off its north end.
PORT ESSINGTON, the outer heads of which, Vashon Head and Point Smith, are seven miles apart, is an extensive port, thirteen miles and a quarter deep, and from five to three wide; independent of its Inner Harbour, which, with a navigable entrance of a mile wide, is five miles deep and four wide. The port is not only capacious, but has very few shoals or dangers in it.
On the western side, off Island Point, there are some rocks, and also a reef projects for a mile off the bluff point that forms the east head of Knocker's Bay. The western side of the entrance to Inner Harbour, is also rocky and shoal for two-thirds across, but near the opposite point* the depth is thirteen fathoms.
(*Footnote. This is Point Record of Captain Bremer, see above.)
On the eastern side of the port there is no danger beyond a quarter of a mile from the shore, excepting a reef of rocks, some of which are dry; this danger, when in a line with a remarkable cliff two miles and a quarter to the south of Table Point, bears East-South-East 1/2 East; close without them the depth is five fathoms.
The INNER HARBOUR is divided into two basins which extend in for two miles on either side of Middle Head, a cliffy projection, surrounded by a rocky shore for a quarter of a mile off. The anchorage between the entrance and Middle Head is in five and six fathoms mud, and in the centre of the western basin the depth is five fathoms mud. The shores are higher than usual, and are varied by sandy beaches and cliffs, some of white and others of a red colour. The western side of the port was not visited, and our tracks and examinations were made principally on the opposite shore. At the bottom of Knocker's Bay is a shoal mangrove opening, of no importance. See volume 1. POINT SMITH is in latitude 11 degrees 6 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 132 degrees 12 minutes 30 seconds.
VASHON HEAD has a considerable shoal projecting from it, and extending into the bay to the westward which was called TREPANG BAY. This bay has an opening at the bottom, that appeared to be shoal. A small sandy island lies at the distance of a mile and three-quarters from the shore; the reef projects into the sea for nearly a mile farther, and apparently extends to the South-West to the north head of POPHAM BAY, which has a small opening at the bottom, but of shoal approach; good anchorage may be had in Popham Bay in five and six fathoms, a little within the heads, and as they bear North and South-South-West, it is well sheltered in the easterly monsoon. Hence to CAPE DON is three miles and a half. The latter cape is in latitude 11 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 45 minutes 30 seconds.
VAN DIEMEN'S GULF is seventy miles deep, and more than forty broad. It has two outlets to sea; the one to the northward, DUNDAS STRAIT, is sixteen miles wide and very deep; the other, CLARENCE STRAIT, is seventeen miles wide, and communicates with the sea round the south sides of Melville and Bathurst Islands: it is probably not so safe as Dundas' Strait, on account of Vernon's Isles, which lie in mid channel, near its western end.
The north eastern side of Van Diemen's Gulf washes the south side of Coburg Peninsula. It has several bays, and, to the eastward of MOUNTS BEDWELL and Roe, the shore is fronted by SIR GEORGE HOPE'S ISLANDS, forming a channel or port within them twenty miles deep and from three to six broad; the entrance to it is round the north end of GREENHILL ISLAND, which is separated from the land of the peninsula, by a strait a mile and a half wide: the depth in mid-channel, for the shore on either side for half a mile is shoal and rocky, is eighteen fathoms, and within it the bottom is six, seven, and eight fathoms deep, and principally of mud. This strait is in latitude 11 degrees 35 minutes.
The eastern side has several openings in it, but the shores are very low, and of shoal approach. At its south-east end are the two (and probably three) Alligator Rivers; the westernmost (or centre) is fronted by FIELD ISLAND, the centre of which is in 12 degrees 6 minutes latitude, and 132 degrees 25 minutes 10 seconds longitude. These rivers have been described in the narrative. See volume 1. The bottom of the gulf is very low, and forms two bights, separated by a point that projects for seven or eight miles.
In the neighbourhood of the rivers the country is sprinkled with wooded hills, that extend in a straggling chain towards Wellington Range, of which they might be considered a part: but between the rivers and Clarence Strait the country is low and flat, and only protected from inroads of the sea by a barrier of sandhills, beyond which not a vestige of the interior could be seen.
CLARENCE STRAIT separates Bathurst and Melville Islands from the mainland: it is seventy-five miles long, and from seventeen to thirty-five wide. The narrowest part is at about its centre, between Cape Gambier and Cape Eldon, and in this space is a group of four low rocky islands, covered with mangroves (Vernon's Islands) from which considerable reefs extend towards either shore.
The best channel is probably on the northern side, near Cape Gambier, which is in latitude 11 degrees 56 minutes 20 seconds; and there also appeared to be a wide and safe channel on the south side; but the neighbourhood of Vernon's Islands is rocky. The flood-tide sets to the eastward into the gulf.
MELVILLE ISLAND is of considerable size, and forms the western side of Van Diemen's Gulf; its greatest length from Cape Van Diemen to Cape Keith being seventy-two miles, and its greatest breadth thirty-eight miles; its circumference is two hundred miles.
We did not land on any part of it, excepting in the entrance of Apsley Strait, at Luxmoore Head (latitude 11 degrees 21 minutes, longitude 130 degrees 22 minutes) from which we were driven by the natives. It appeared fertile and more elevated than the coast to the eastward, and to possess several good harbours, particularly Apsley Strait, besides several bays on its north coast; and from the appearance of the land on its east side, and the extent and abrupt shape of the hills, it is probable that there may be a port there also. BRENTON BAY is the mouth of a small inlet, which may probably prove to be a fresh-water stream; and the bottom of LETHBRIDGE BAY appeared likely to yield one also. The hills and coast are wooded to the brink of the cliffs and sandy beaches that vary the northern shores of Melville Island. The most unproductive part appeared to be the narrow strip that extends towards Cape Van Diemen. On either side of the point, near Karslake Island, is a bay, and at the bottom of each there is an opening in the land, like those of Brenton and Lethbridge Bays.
The western trend of CAPE VAN DIEMEN is in latitude 11 degrees 8 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds. The coast to the south-east of the cape is formed by a range of cliffs, extending uninterruptedly for seven miles, of a most remarkable white appearance, whiter even than the usual colour of the pipe-clay cliffs to the eastward. Cape Van Diemen is a low sandy point, with a shoal spit projecting from it for four miles, within half a mile of the extremity of which we had no bottom with ten fathoms: from this a very considerable shoal (MERMAID'S SHOAL) extends to the westward and south-westward for seventeen miles; and, curving round to PIPER'S HEAD, forms the northern limit of the entrance to Apsley Strait: its western edge is rather steep; we coasted along it, and had overfalls between ten and four fathoms near its edge. It is not only possible, but very likely, that there are channels through it, but the most direct channel is round its south side, across the bar, on which there is (at low water) five fathoms. To sail into APSLEY STRAIT by this channel, if coming from the westward, steer in on the parallel of 11 degrees 15 minutes, until the northern part of Bathurst Island is seen: when the western trend of the island bears South, you will be abreast of the west extremity of the shoal off Cape Van Diemen. Steering on, you will see Piper's Head, a cliffy point, forming the north entrance to the strait, which must be kept upon the bearing of East by North, until the low, sandy, south point of the strait's entrance* is in a line with the summit of LUXMOORE HEAD, a remarkable flat-topped hill on the eastern side of the strait, bearing South 59 degrees East. Then steer East by South, keeping the lead going, and hauling to the north if the soundings are less than seven fathoms, until the strait is opened bearing South-East by South, when you may haul in for Luxmoore Head, and anchor at will.
(*Footnote. Point Brace of Captain Bremer.)
The narrowest part of the strait is where the low, sandy extremity, Point Brace, bears South 40 degrees East; the channel then is from seventeen to eighteen fathoms deep, and shoals suddenly on its south, but gradually on its north side: it is about a mile and a half wide.
APSLEY STRAIT is forty miles long, and from one to three broad; the widest part being at the north end: the southern end, for five or six miles from the outlet, is very rocky; the south entrance is in latitude 11 degrees 45 minutes; the flood sets to the southward, and the ebb, from Van Diemen's Gulf out of Clarence Strait, runs through the strait to the north, which must cause many shoals off the south entrance; the depth is generally from ten to thirteen fathoms, but is very irregular towards the south end; at low water many parts are dry, which leave the channels very intricate. We passed over it at high water without knowing our danger, for the stream of the tide carried us through the deepest part of the channel.
BATHURST ISLAND is from thirty to thirty-three miles in extent, having a circumference of a hundred and twenty miles. GORDON BAY, on its western side, affords a good shelter in the easterly monsoon; it is ten miles wide, and six deep, and terminated by PORT HURD, the entrance to which is fronted by a bar, having twelve or fourteen feet on it at low water. Near the south-western head of the bay two projecting cliffy points (Twin Cliffs) terminate a sandy bay, from which wood and, probably, water may be obtained. PORT HURD, at the bottom of Gordon Bay, in latitude 11 degrees 39 minutes 30 seconds, is a mere salt-water inlet, running up in a South-East direction for eight miles; it then separates into two creeks that wind under each side of a wooded hill; the entrance is three-quarters of a mile wide, and formed by two low points. At the back of the port are some wooded hills; one of them, Mount Hurd, kept in the opening between the two points of entrance, is the mark for the deepest part of the bar. When within the entrance the port opens, and forms a basin two miles and a quarter broad, after which it narrows and runs up at from half to a quarter of a mile wide, with a channel four and five fathoms deep.
The country here is thickly wooded, but very low, excepting a few ranges of hills that may rise to the height of two hundred feet. The south side of Bathurst Island has no sinuosities.
Near CAPE FOURCROY the coast is formed by sandhills: but, for the next fifteen miles, it is low and backed by wooded hills.
OF THE NATURE OF THE WINDS AND THE DESCRIPTION OF THE COAST BETWEEN CLARENCE STRAIT AND THE NORTH-WEST CAPE.
NORTH-WEST COAST.
The nature of the winds upon the North-west Coast, that is, between Cape Van Diemen and the North-west Cape, differs very materially from the regularity of the monsoons in the sea that divides it from Timor and the islands to the northward; excepting in the narrower part between Cape Londonderry and the Sahul Bank, where, from the contracted nature of the sea, more regular winds may be expected. The easterly monsoon commences about the beginning of April, and in the months of May and June blows with great strength, and will be found more regular close to the projecting parts of the coast, but they then rather assume the character of a sea-breeze, for the nights are generally calm.
After the month of June the winds to the westward of Cape Londonderry are very irregular, and generally blow from the southward or south-west; they are however more constant to the westward of Buccaneer's Archipelago, where the seabreezes blow principally from the North-West along the land. At intervals, during the east monsoon, the wind blows strong from South-East, but only for a short time, perhaps only for a few hours. Ships may creep along the Coast of New Holland to the eastward during the easterly monsoon, when they could not make any progress in the mid sea, without being much delayed by calms. Towards the North-west Cape, neither the monsoon nor the South East trade are much experienced, the wind being generally from the South-West or North-West.
During the strength of the westerly monsoon, that is, in the months of December and January, the wind is regular between West-North-West and West-South-West, and, in the neighbourhood of the North-west Cape, sometimes blows hard; but even in these tropical regions, when the weather is very bad, the change is predicted by the barometer, which otherwise is scarcely affected.
In February, near the coast of New Holland, the monsoon is less constant, and the wind often blows off the land, so that a ship could make her westing, when, if more to the northward, it would be impossible for her to gain any ground. At the latter end of February the westerly winds die away, and are succeeded by light, baffling, easterly winds, with damp, unwholesome weather, and attended occasionally by heavy squalls of wind and rain.
If a ship is detained late in the easterly monsoon, and wishes to get to the westward, she will find the wind more regular and strong from the eastward in the neighbourhood of Timor, where the easterly monsoon lasts until the first or second week in November: in the months of September and October, to the southward of the parallel of 12 degrees, the winds are almost constant from South-West. The currents are stronger according to the regularity and strength of the wind, and generally set at the rate of one or one knot and a half. The tides in this part of the coast are noticed in the description of the places where they were observed. High water at full and change takes place at: The anchorage off Vansittart Bay at 9 hours 15 minutes.
In Montagu Sound at 12 hours 00 minutes.
In Careening Bay at 12 hours 00 minutes.
In Prince Regent's River at 12 hours 20 minutes.
The rise of the tide, to the westward of Cape Van Diemen, and particularly to the westward of Cape Bougainville, appeared gradually to increase: the greatest that we experienced was in the vicinity of Buccaneer's Archipelago; and at the anchorage in Camden Bay the tide rose thirty-seven feet; occasioned probably by the intersected nature of the coast.
The variation in this interval is almost too trifling to be noticed for the purposes of common navigation. Between Capes Londonderry and Van Diemen it varies between 1/4 and 1 degree East. Between the former and Careening Bay it was between 1 and 1 1/2 degrees East; at Careening Bay the mean of the observations gave 3/4 of a degree West; but to the westward of that, as far as Cape Villaret, the results of the observations varied between 1 degree East and 1 degree West. Near the North-west Cape, and to the eastward of it as far as Depuch Island, it is about two degrees Westerly.
On the south-side of Clarence Strait the land is low, like the coast to the eastward. PATERSON BAY appeared to be the mouth of a river, but it was not examined. The opening to the eastward of the projecting point that forms the eastern side of Paterson Bay, seemed to be a good port; and to have an inlet at its bottom trending to the South-East.
CAPE GROSE, in latitude 12 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 26 minutes, is the western head of Paterson Bay: it is fronted by reefs that extend for a considerable distance into the sea; their extremity is nearly nine miles north from the cape.
Hence the coast extends low and sandy to POINT BLAZE, to the northward of which there is a bay: to the south the shore is wooded, and trends for eighteen miles to the north entrance of Anson Bay, which is formed by PERON ISLANDS; these are low and sandy; at the extremity of the northern island, there is a sandy peak in latitude 13 degrees 6 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 131 degrees 1 minute 20 seconds: the south end is overrun with mangroves, and it appeared very doubtful whether a channel existed between it and the smaller island, which is entirely surrounded by mangroves. This entrance to the bay is very intricate, and useless, since that to the south of the islands is so much better. Anson's Bay affords good anchorage, and probably has a small rivulet at the bottom.
CAPE FORD, in latitude 13 degrees 24 minutes 35 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 52 minutes 20 seconds, has a reef projecting for three miles from it: hence the coast trends round to the southward for thirty miles to a bay, which also has a small opening at the bottom; five miles inland there is a range of hills, on which two, of flat-topped summits, are conspicuous; and, at a distance, assume the appearance of islands. They are the Barthelemy Hills.
A few miles to the westward is PORT KEATS. TREE POINT, in latitude 13 degrees 59 minutes 20 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 34 minutes, the eastern head of the port, is surrounded by a reef, which extends from it for more than three miles. The west side has also a reef, but of much more considerable size, stretching to the northward of Cape Hay for fifteen miles; near its extremity there is a patch of dry rocks, occupying an extent of two miles. The channel within the heads is from two to four miles wide, and has anchorage in it between six and seven fathoms, mud. The port gradually contracts as it approaches the narrow mouth of the inlet to a mile and a half; it then trends to the south for six miles, where it is divided into two arms, that run up for six or seven miles more to the foot of a range of wooded hills, one of which is MOUNT GOODWIN. The western side of the inlet is occupied by a bank of clay, that dries at low water. At about three miles within the narrow entrance on the western side, there is an inlet, and above this the anchorage is good, the bottom being of clay, in which is mixed a small ironstone pebble: between the inlet and the narrows, the bottom is deep and rocky.
Between Cape Hay, in latitude 14 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and longitude 130 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds, and POINT PEARCE, in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes 30 seconds, longitude 130 degrees 17 minutes 15 seconds, the coast is still low, and was only seen at a distance. Off the latter point there is a reef which does not extend to a greater distance than a mile and a half.
To the south of Point Pearce there is a very extensive opening, which bad weather and other circumstances did not allow of being examined. It is nearly thirty miles wide, and the depth across between eight fathoms and twenty. The south shore is lined by a considerable reef extending for seven miles from the beach. The land was very indistinctly seen at the back, but, in one part, there was a space of more than eighteen miles, in which nothing was visible. The strength of the tide, the bottom being sandy instead of mud, as in other parts of the neighbourhood, and the rocky overfalls on either side of the entrance bespeak this opening to be of considerable size and importance.
The shore to CAPE DOMETT was very indistinctly seen. It occupies an extent of forty-five miles, and is fronted by extensive reefs, which project for twenty-three miles; the north extremity of the shoal water is twenty-six miles, nearly due west from Cape Pearce. It terminates with a narrow point, and then trends in to the South-West towards the coast.
The Medusa Bank fronts the entrance of Cambridge Gulf; it projects from the coast, near Cape Domett, to the North-West for seventeen miles, and terminates with a narrow spit, thirteen miles north from Lacrosse Island, in latitude 14 degrees 30 1/2 minutes. Both these banks are of sand, and their edges are very steep to. They are covered with large quantities of mollusca, which are also abundant in the sea in their vicinity.
CAMBRIDGE GULF extends from Lacrosse Island in a South-South-Westerly direction for sixty-four miles. The entrance, between Cape Domett and Cape Dussejour, is twelve miles wide; but Lacrosse Island, under which there is good anchorage for vessels going in or out of the gulf, divides the entrance into two channels. The western entrance is about two miles and a half wide, and is deepest near the island: but, at a mile from the shore, we had no bottom with fourteen and seventeen fathoms. The reefs project from Cape Dussejour for nearly three miles. On the eastern side of Lacrosse Island, within half a mile of the point, we had seven fathoms, and there was every appearance of the channel being deep in the neighbourhood of Cape Domett. Shakspeare Hill, the situation of which is in latitude 14 degrees 47 minutes 55 seconds, and longitude 128 degrees 24 minutes, is a conspicuous object on this promontory: it is high and rocky, and, at a distance, has the appearance of being insulated, like Lacrosse Island.
Having entered the gulf, it trends to the South-South-West for twenty-three miles to Adolphus Island, where it is divided into two arms, of which the westernmost is the principal. At ten miles from Lacrosse Island, the channel is narrowed by shoals to a width of five miles, the shores being twelve miles apart. The land on the western side of the gulf is high and rocky; but the opposite shore is very low, and apparently marshy. The bottom is of sand, as are the banks on either side, and affords good anchorage: the tide stream runs with great strength in mid-channel, but is easily avoided by anchoring upon the weather shore near the edge of the bank.
The channels on either side of Adolphus Island are called the East and West Arms. The East Arm is from one to two miles and a half wide, and four or five fathoms deep. At ten miles it is joined by an arm that washes the south side of Adolphus Island, and the united streams trend together in a South-East direction, under the foot of Mount Connexion, for a considerable distance. This inlet was not examined. The West Arm extends down the west side of Adolphus Island for seven miles; it is then divided by a projecting point under View Hill; and, whilst one runs to the eastward and unites with the East Arm, the other continues to trend to the southward, and then opens out to an extensive basin eleven miles in length, and from four to six in breadth; and, at seven miles, gradually contracts as it winds under the base of the Bastion Hills: before, however, you arrive at the basin, the stream is divided by several islands and rocky islets, that narrow the channel in some parts to the width of half a mile, in which the depth is very great, and the tide runs with great strength.
At the entrance of the basin the high rocky character of the west shore is superseded by low mangrove banks, with here and there a detached hill rising from a plain of low marshy land, that, at the time of our visit, was covered with a salt incrustation, occasioned by the evaporation of the sea, which, apparently, had lately flooded the low lands to a great extent: some of these plains are seven and eight miles in diameter. The hills rise abruptly; those we examined are of sandstone formation. The basin is very shoal, but there is a narrow channel in the centre, with from five to nine fathoms water. The shore, opposite the Bastion Hills, is low, and the gulf trends gradually round to the South-West for five miles, when it is contracted into a narrow communication, called The Gut, leading to an interior shoal basin, strewed with low marshy islands, which the tide covers. This basin terminates to the southward in a narrow stream, winding under the base of Mount Cockburn; and there also appeared to be several others falling into the basin more to the westward. The water was salt at the extremity of our exploration. The Gut leading to it is two miles long, and not so much as a quarter of a mile wide: in some parts we had nineteen fathoms, but in others it was deeper; it runs through a chasm in the hills, which rise abruptly, and occasionally recede and form bights, in which, in the wet season, the rains form some very considerable mountain torrents. No fresh water was seen in any part of the gulf; but as it was near the end of the dry season when we were there, it might probably be found in a more advanced season in every part of the western side, where the land is high and the gullies numerous: there is, however, no durable freshwater stream without the Gut. An alligator was observed swimming about, but very few fish were noticed.
The coast extends from Cape Dussejour to Cape Londonderry, a distance of ninety-five miles, without an opening, and with but few sinuosities of any consequence. The coast is chiefly rocky, with here and there a few sandy beaches: but the shore generally is open and exposed: there are many parts, however, where a boat might land; particularly behind BUCKLE HEAD, and a little farther on at REVELEY ISLAND: at the latter place there is a gully in the hills, at the back of the bay, which may probably produce fresh water: this bay is near Captain Baudin's MOUNT CASUARINA, a flat-topped hill, that is conspicuous from the sea. The mount is only visible between the bearings of South and West-South-West, and may be seen at the distance of seven or eight leagues. It is situated at six miles from the shore, in latitude 14 degrees 23 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 127 degrees 36 minutes 50 seconds.
The coast is here but slightly wooded, and sufficiently elevated to conceal the interior; no part of which, excepting Mount Casuarina, could be seen. It is fronted by rocks, but they do not appear to extend more than two miles from the shore. At CAPE RULHIERES, the coast trends more westerly. To the westward of this cape are two sandy bays, in which boats might effect a landing; but they are open and exposed to the northward. To the eastward of it there are some reefs which project for more than two miles from the shore; and, at the west head of the westernmost of the bays, is an island with a reef extending for nearly three miles from it: behind the island is another bay, that appeared to be fronted by the above reef. In the offing, and at the distance of six miles from the shore, is LESUEUR ISLAND; it is about two miles in circumference, and surrounded by a coral reef, that extends for one mile and a half from its north-east end. At this part the coast is more verdant in appearance than to the eastward of Cape Rulhieres, particularly for ten miles to the South-East of Cape Londonderry; in which space there are several sandy bays, with the shores wooded to the brink of the beach: at about five miles from the cape is a small boat harbour, at the back of which a gully in the hills appeared promising for the search for fresh water, more particularly on account of the verdant appearance of the trees near it.
CAPE LONDONDERRY is a low rocky point; it is easily recognised by the reef that extends from it, and the trend of the land, which takes from it a westerly direction; there are also two small sandy islets, Stewart's Islets, at a little more than two miles from it, encompassed by the reef. The cape is in 13 degrees 44 minutes South, and 126 degrees 53 minutes 50 seconds East.
The land then extends to the westward for nearly eleven miles, to CAPE TALBOT; it is fronted by the reef that commences at Cape Londonderry, and projects from the shore for nearly five miles, but to the eastward of the cape a ship may approach it within two miles.
To the south of Cape Talbot the land trends in and forms a bay twelve miles deep, and wide, that was not examined. It is fronted by SIR GRAHAM MOORE'S ISLANDS, one of which is eight miles long, and low, excepting at the east end, where there is a flat-topped hill; there is also another remarkable summit on a smaller island, to the north of the principal island.
At twenty miles West-South-West from Cape Talbot is the east entrance of VANSITTART BAY; it is formed between MARY ISLAND and the easternmost of the ECLIPSE ISLES (Long Island) but this space, which is nearly three miles wide, is much occupied by rocks, so that it is contracted to the width of little more than half a mile.
The channel to this is between two extensive reefs, the innermost of which commences at eight miles to the westward of Cape Talbot, and extends along Sir Graham Moore's Islands to Mary Island.
The outer reef commences at about twelve miles from the cape, and extends to the westward, embracing JONES' ISLAND (in latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes, and longitude 126 degrees 23 minutes) and the Eclipse Isles. The passage is from three and a half to five miles wide, and is deep and free from danger. The bottom is rocky until within five miles of the Eclipse Islands, when good anchorage may be obtained in five and six fathoms, upon a muddy bottom.
The entrance is between Middle Rock, and a patch of dry rocks to the eastward of Long Rocks, the distance across being about half a mile. In entering the bay by this channel, steer so as to pass round Middle Rock, and upon bringing the peaked summit of Jar Island, at the bottom of the port, between it and Long Rocks, bearing South 29 1/2 degrees West, steer directly for Jar Island, until you are abreast of Middle Rock, when you may haul close round it, with fourteen and sixteen fathoms: when you have passed the Long Rocks, a course may be directed at pleasure into the bay. There is also a deep passage to the westward of Middle Rock; but it is too narrow to be safe. The tide sets through the channels with great strength; with the flood-tide there is no danger, as the stream will carry a vessel through the deepest part; with the ebb-tide, however, it should not be attempted.
The western entrance to Vansittart Bay is between the land of CAPE BOUGAINVILLE and the Eclipse Islands: it is three miles and a half wide, and quite free from danger. The approach to it, between TROUGHTON ISLAND (latitude 13 degrees 44 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 11 minutes) and the reefs in the offing, is six miles wide, and probably quite safe. We did not ascertain the existence of a channel on the east side of the island, but it appeared to be free from danger, and, if so, would be the best approach. ECLIPSE HILL, being higher than the land near it, and conspicuous from its flat tabular shape, is a good mark for the port; it is in latitude 13 degrees 54 minutes 20 seconds and longitude 126 degrees 18 minutes 40 seconds.
Vansittart Bay is eighteen miles deep, and from five to ten broad; it offers excellent anchorage. The eastern shore is rocky, and should not be approached nearer than a mile; but the western shore is steep to, and may be passed very close: on this side the port there are many coves and bays fit for any purposes. The most secure anchorage is in the centre of the bay, where there is from seven to nine fathoms, mud, and the sea-breeze has free access: but, if a more sheltered place is required, such may be found at the south-east corner of the bottom of the bay in six and seven fathoms, mud. High water at full and change takes place in the eastern entrance, at a quarter past nine o'clock; the tide rises about six feet.
JAR ISLAND is surrounded by rocks, but to the eastward of it the channel is twelve fathoms deep. Its summit is in latitude 14 degrees 7 minutes 10 seconds, longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes 40 seconds.
The western side of Vansittart Bay is formed by a peninsula, the extremity of which is Cape Bougainville; the northern part of this land is fronted by a reef, that extends round it for three miles from the shore, but the western side appeared to be of bold approach. The reef commences at Cape Bougainville, and trends round to Point Gibson, where it terminates. This part of the coast is fronted by extensive reefs, which render the approach to it very dangerous: at sixteen miles to the northward of the cape there is a range, the HOLOTHURIA BANKS, that extend in an east and west direction for twenty-three miles; their north-east extent was not ascertained, but the western end, in latitude 13 degrees 32 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 46 minutes 45 seconds, is narrow, and not more than five or six miles broad.
There is another range of reefs to the westward of the cape, that extends in a north and south direction for upwards of twenty miles; and about from three to five miles broad. The water breaks on many parts of it. Its north extremity, in latitude 13 degrees 41 1/2 minutes, is sixteen miles West 3/4 North from Troughton Island: in this space the sea is quite clear, and from sixteen to twenty fathoms deep. The narrowest part of the channel, between the reef and the peninsula, is at Point Gibson, where it is more than eight miles wide, and in mid-channel about twenty-three fathoms deep.
Between Cape Bougainville and Cape Voltaire is the ADMIRALTY GULF. It is twenty-nine miles wide and twenty-two deep, independent of Port Warrender. This gulf is thickly strewed with islands and reefs: a group off Cape Voltaire was seen by the French and named by them the INSTITUTE ISLANDS, the three principal of which, of flat-topped shape, are called Descartes, Fenelon, and Corneille; besides these the Montesquieu Group, and Pascal and Condillac Islands, were distinguished. On the eastern side of the gulf, near the shore, are OSBORN'S ISLANDS, which are high and rocky: the southernmost is remarkable for its steep, precipitous form, and for its resemblance to Mount Cockburn in Cambridge Gulf. There is also a conspicuous high bluff on the principal island, which appears to have been seen by the French.
In the offing is CASSINI ISLAND; it is rather low and level, and surrounded by cliffs and rocky shores: on the eastern side are four sandy beaches, which are very much frequented by turtle: a reef projects off its north end for a mile and a half. The anchorage is good near the island, but the water is very deep. The situation of its centre is in latitude 13 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 42 minutes.
PORT WARRENDER is an excellent port, and affords good anchorage in the bay round Crystal Head, in which a vessel is quite land-locked; but equally secure anchorage may be had for five miles higher up the port, in from four to seven fathoms, mud. It extends for six miles farther, but the depth in some parts is not more than two fathoms.
At eleven miles from the entrance, the port is separated into two inlets, which wind under the base of a dividing range of high, steep, and wooded hills; these run up for five miles higher, when they become mere mangrove creeks. There is probably another inlet on the east side of Port Warrender which we did not examine, since it appeared to be less considerable in size, and important in appearance, than the arm which we had examined. CRYSTAL HEAD is in latitude 14 degrees 28 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 55 minutes 30 seconds.
WALMESLY BAY appeared to be a good port also, but it is open to the eastward. We did not enter it.
CAPE VOLTAIRE is the extremity of a promontory, extending for more than twenty miles into the sea, and separating the Admiralty Gulf from Montagu Sound. There is a flat-topped hill near its extremity, in latitude 14 degrees 14 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 40 minutes 12 seconds; and, at three miles more to the southward, a peaked hill; its shores on either side are rocky, and indented by bays. At one part the width across to Walmesly Bay cannot be more than a mile and a half.
The MONTALIVET ISLES, about six leagues from the main, consist of three rocky islands; they are visible for six or seven leagues from the deck: the north-easternmost is in latitude 14 degrees 13 minutes 40 seconds, longitude 125 degrees 19 minutes 30 seconds.
MONTAGU SOUND extends from Cape Voltaire to the north end of Bigge's Island, a distance of thirty-one miles, and is from eleven to twenty miles deep. It is fronted by a range of islands; the outer range, which is eight miles within the Montalivet Isles, was called PRUDHOE ISLANDS; besides which there were several scattered about the sound, and some of larger size near the main: of the latter are KATER'S and WOLLASTON'S. They are of a very rocky character, and furnished with but a poor and shallow soil, although the surface is thickly covered with small trees, growing most luxuriantly. WATER ISLAND, to the north-east, in latitude 14 degrees 21 minutes, and longitude 125 degrees 32 minutes 25 seconds, was visited by us, as was also CAPSTAN ISLAND, in the south-west corner of the sound. The latter island is in latitude 14 degrees 35 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 16 minutes 20 seconds. They are both rocky, and destitute of any soil but what is formed by the decomposition of the vegetables that grow upon the island. The channels between them appeared to be clear and free from hidden danger. The depth among the islands is from ten to fifteen fathoms on a muddy bottom; but the anchorage is better between Kater Island and the promontory that separates it from Walmesly Bay, than any other part. It is a very fine port, particularly near the bottom, in SWIFT'S BAY, where the depth is from four to five fathoms at low water, It is high water at full and change in Swift's Bay at twelve o'clock, which is two hours and a quarter later than in Vansittart Bay: the tide rose eighteen feet, whereas in Port Warrender its rise was only six. The islands off the north-east end of Bigge's Island are more numerous than in other parts of the sound: they were only seen at a distance, and too numerous to give correct positions to. BIGGE'S ISLAND is fourteen miles long, and from six to seven broad; it is of moderate height, and rocky character: its south end appeared to be thickly wooded. A flat-topped hill near the shore of Scott's Strait is a remarkable object, and may be seen six or seven leagues off. It is in latitude 14 degrees 39 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 10 minutes 20 seconds.
SCOTT'S STRAIT is a channel separating Bigge's Island from the main: it is thirteen miles long, and from three to one and a quarter broad. It is of irregular depth, and has some rocks in mid-channel, which are dry: the deepest channel is near the eastern shore, the depth being from ten to fourteen fathoms. The strait does not terminate until you are to the westward of Cape Pond, for there are several islets off the south end of Bigge's Island, and a considerable reef, through which, although there may be deep channels, yet they must be narrow. Off the north-west end of Bigge's Island are several rocky islets; the outer ones were seen by me in the Bathurst (see above): they are the MARET ISLES of Commodore Baudin; they consist of four or five principal islands, of about two miles in length, besides as many more of very small size off the south extremity of the group. The northern point of the northernmost island is in latitude 15 degrees 7 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 40 seconds. The group is fronted on the north-west side by a considerable reef, extending North by East 1/2 East for seven miles; the outer edge being three miles and a half to the westward of the group.
YORK SOUND is fourteen miles wide and ten deep: it is contained between Cape Pond and the northern extreme of the Coronation Islands. It is spacious, but the bottom, in the middle, is rocky: there is, however, very good anchorage near the Coronation Islands; and there is also, possibly, as good on the eastern shore to the south of CAPE POND, which has a rocky island immediately off it, the situation of which is in latitude 14 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 9 minutes 25 seconds.
At the bottom of York Sound is PRINCE FREDERIC'S HARBOUR, a fine spacious port, fourteen miles long, and from five to seven broad: it is terminated by two rivers, namely Hunter's and Roe's. It has several rocky islands on either shore; and, at the bottom, they are numerous. The tide here rises at the springs twenty-nine feet. The anchorage is not so good in the entrance of the port, but a good bottom may be found as soon as Hunter's River begins to open, and bears East 1/2 North, and when you are within a small island that is in the centre of the port; but an anchorage may very probably be obtained on the northern shore, or, indeed, any where out of the strength of the tides.
HUNTER'S RIVER runs up for about fourteen miles. It is about one mile and a half wide at the entrance, and preserves that width for more than four miles, when it suddenly contracts and becomes shoal, and very tortuous in its course, and winds through a narrow chasm in the rocks, which rise precipitously in some parts for at least two or three hundred feet. A vessel may anchor in seven fathoms near the end of the first reach; its course is to the East-North-East. There is a remarkable rock at the entrance, in latitude 15 degrees 1 minute 30 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 24 minutes. ROE'S RIVER first trends for seventeen miles to the East by South, and then, taking a sudden turn to the south, runs up for thirteen miles more; after which it trends to the South-East, and was supposed to run up for at least ten miles farther. Its entrance for seven miles forms a very good harbour, being from two to six fathoms deep; but, in anchoring here, it must be recollected that the tide falls twenty-nine feet. This river, like Hunter's River, is bounded on either bank by precipitous hills, which, in many parts, are inaccessible.
Five miles to the westward of Cape Torrens is Point Hardy: off the latter is an islet; and three miles, North by East 1/2 East from it, is a reef, on which the sea breaks. This point is the east head of PORT NELSON, which extends to the southward from it for eight miles: its western side is formed by the Coronation Islands: its width is three miles, with good anchorage all over it. At the bottom is CAREENING BAY, where the Mermaid was repaired. The latitude of the beach in 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds.* Port Nelson communicates with the sea to the westward of the Coronation Islands, which may be considered a strait. At the south-west end of the southernmost island, where the strait is narrowest, and not more than one mile and a quarter wide, there is a patch of rocks in the centre, which always shows: the channel on the north side of these rocks is the best: the water is very deep, and the tide sets right through.
(*Footnote. The latitude of the observatory was taken every day during our stay, using the sea-horizon, but the effect of refraction was so great that the daily observations varied as much as 3 minutes 43 seconds.The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds, and of fourteen observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8 seconds. Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South.The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of our two visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the latter were taken at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the difference of the meridians of the two places, by chronometers and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8 seconds.1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances with the sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the sun being to the east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees 11 minutes 24.3 seconds.1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances with the sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the sun being to the west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes 15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay 124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 seconds.The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds East.)
The mean of 15 meridional altitudes with the sextant made the latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 22.5 seconds, and of fourteen observations with the circle 15 degrees 6 minutes 13.8 seconds. Mean for the latitude of the observatory 15 degrees 6 minutes 18 seconds South.
The longitude was deduced by the mean of the observations of our two visits; namely, in October, 1820, and August, 1821: the latter were taken at Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, the difference of the meridians of the two places, by chronometers and survey, being 8 minutes 52.8 seconds.
1820. September 28 and 29. By twenty sets of lunar distances with the sun, containing one hundred sights with the sextant, the sun being to the east of the moon, the longitude is 125 degrees 11 minutes 24.3 seconds.
1821. August 2nd and 3rd. By seventeen sets of lunar distances with the sun, containing eighty-five sights with the sextant, the sun being to the west of the moon, the longitude of Sight Point, in Prince Regent's River, was found to be 124 degrees 41 minutes 15.3 seconds, or of Careening Bay 124 degrees 50 minutes 8.1 seconds.
The mean is the longitude of the observatory 125 degrees 0 minutes 46 seconds East.)
The CORONATION ISLANDS separate York Sound from Brunswick Bay, and are situated in front of Port Nelson. The group consists of seventeen or eighteen islands, besides numerous rocky islets. On the largest island are two remarkable peaks; the easternmost is in 14 degrees 59 minutes, and longitude 124 degrees 56 minutes 5 seconds. The island is eight miles long, and from four to two wide; the others are from three to one mile in length; they are covered with vegetation, and the larger islands are well clothed with trees. The great rise of the tide would render this part of the coast of importance, was it not for the wretched state of the country, and the unproductiveness of its soil, which are great drawbacks upon the advantage of the tide's unusual rise. It is high water at full and change in Port Nelson at twelve o'clock, as it is also in Montagu Sound.
Beyond the Coronation Islands there is a string of small, rocky islands extending for sixteen miles: the westernmost is Freycinet's Group; the principal island of which Captain De Freycinet has described as resembling an inverted bowl; and, from this description, we had no difficulty in finding it out; it is in latitude 15 degrees 0 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 32 minutes 40 seconds. Among the other islands we distinguished the islets Colbert, Keraudren, and Buffon. On the last there is a small, grassy, peaked hillock, in latitude 14 degrees 55 minutes 25 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 43 minutes 20 seconds.
We passed out to sea between Freycinet's Group and Keraudren; and within one mile and a half of the latter had eighteen fathoms: it appeared, from the colour of the water, to have a reef projecting to the westward.
BRUNSWICK BAY is at the back of these islands, and extends from CAPE BREWSTER, in latitude 15 degrees 6 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 55 minutes 5 seconds, which terminates Port Nelson, to Point Adieu. It is an extensive bay or sound, and is about twenty miles in extent, with good anchorage all over it. The coast is here very much indented by rivers and bays; among which may be particularized Prince Regent's River, Hanover Bay, and Port George the Fourth.
PRINCE REGENT'S RIVER is, without exception, the most remarkable feature of the North-West Coast. In general the inlets of this coast form extensive ports at their entrance; and, when they begin to assume the character of a river, their course becomes tortuous, and very irregular; of which there cannot be a better instance than the neighbouring river, Roe's River. Prince Regent's River trends into the interior in a South-East by East direction for fifty-four miles. With scarcely a point to intercept the view, after being thirteen miles within it. The entrance is formed by Cape Wellington on the east, and High Bluff on the west, a width of eight miles, but is so much contracted by islands, that, in hauling round Cape Wellington, the width is suddenly reduced to little more than a mile: at the branching off of Rothsay Water, it is little more than half a mile, and also the same width at the entrance of St. George's Basin. In this space, however, it is in some parts a little wider, but in no part between projecting points is it more than one mile and a quarter. For the first nine miles the stream is narrowed by islands; beyond this, its boundaries are formed by the natural banks of the river. On the eastern side, within Cape Wellington, is a deep bay, but of shoal and rocky appearance. At six miles farther on are two inlets, ROTHSAY and MUNSTER WATERS, near which the tide forms rapid eddies and whirlpools, that render its approach dangerous. In mid-channel is a group of isles; and, off the easternmost, a reef projects to the eastward for more than half a mile, round which a vessel must pass; here the channel is not more than half a mile wide. Munster Water, on the western side, communicates with Hanover Bay by a narrow strait, with very good anchorage in it in four and five fathoms mud; it is, however, an inconvenient place to go to, if a vessel is bound any farther up the river. Rothsay Water is a very considerable arm; and was conjectured to communicate with Prince Frederic's Harbour, and, if so, would insulate the land between Capes Torrens and Wellington. We did not enter Rothsay Water; and the tides and whirlpools were too rapid and dangerous to trust our small boats without running a very great risk. At the entrance of this arm, on the south shore, there appeared to be a shoal-bank. Halfway Bay offers very good anchorage out of the strength of the tides, with abundance of room to get underweigh from. The northernmost point of the bay, SIGHT POINT, has a small islet off it (LAMMAS ISLET) where the observations were taken to fix the longitude of Careening Bay. (See above.) The two bays on the opposite, or north-east shore, are shoal, and not fit for any vessel drawing more than six or seven feet; and the shores are so lined with mangroves, as in most parts to defy all attempts at landing. After passing them, the shores approach each other within three-quarters of a mile, but the south-west shore is fronted by a rocky shoal, which narrows it to less than half a mile; here the tide runs very strong, and forms whirlpools. On passing the point, the river opens into a large, spacious reach, which was called ST. GEORGE'S BASIN; and two conspicuous islands in it were called ST. ANDREW and ST. PATRICK'S ISLANDS. At the north-east corner are two remarkable hills, MOUNTS TRAFALGAR and WATERLOO: the situation of the summit of the former is in latitude 15 degrees 16 minutes 35 seconds, and longitude 125 degrees 4 minutes. The basin is from eight to nine miles in diameter, but affords no safe anchorage until a vessel is above St. Patrick's Island. The northern side of the basin is shoaler, and has two small inlets, which trend in on either side of the mounts, and run in for upwards of five miles, but they are salt. At the south side of the basin there are two or three inlets of considerable size, that trend in towards a low country. At ten miles South-East by East from the narrow entrance to the basin the river again resumes its narrow channel, and runs up so perfectly straight for fourteen miles in a South-East by East course, that the hills, which rise precipitously on either bank, were lost in distance, and the river assumed the most exact appearance of being a strait; it was from one to one mile and a quarter wide, and generally of from four to eight fathoms deep on a bottom of yellow sand: the river then took a slight bend, and continued to run up for twelve or thirteen miles further, with a few slight curves, and gradually to decrease in width until terminated by a bar of rocks; which, when the tide rose high enough to fall over, was very dangerous to pass: here a considerable gully joins the main stream, and, being fresh water, was supposed to have the same source as Roe's River. The river trended up for about three or four miles farther, when it is entirely stopped by a rapid formed of stones, beyond which we did not persevere in tracing it; the tide did not reach above this, and the stream was perceived to continue and form a very beautiful fresh-water river, about two or three hundred yards wide. As our means did not allow of our persevering any further, we gave up our examination. At seventeen miles above St. George's Basin, on the south shore, we found a cascade of fresh water falling in a considerable quantity from the height of one hundred and forty feet; and this, in the rainy season, must be a very large fall, for its breadth is at least fifty yards. At the time of our visit it was near the end of the dry season: and even then there was a very considerable quantity falling. Several small inlets trended in on either side of the river above the basin, particularly one upon the north side, which, from the height of the hills under which it trended, would probably produce a freshwater stream. In 1821 the Bathurst watered from the cascade, but the fatigue was too great, and the heat too powerful, for the boats' crew had to pull nearly forty miles every trip. High water took place in St. George's Basin at twenty minutes after twelve o'clock: the tide rose twenty-four feet.
HANOVER BAY is a very convenient port, about five miles deep, but exposed from the North-North-West; the anchorage is, however, so good, that no danger need be apprehended. At the bottom of the bay there is a deep chasm in the land, yielding a fresh-water stream; beyond this the bay terminates in a shoal basin. In the offing are several rocky islets, particularly one, a high rock, which is very remarkable. A little to the north-east of the river is a sandy beach, the situation of which is in latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 21 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 46 minutes 50 seconds.
HIGH BLUFF, the extremity of the promontory separating Hanover Bay from Port George the Fourth, speaks for itself. It is in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 40 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 41 minutes 35 seconds. Between High Bluff and Point Adieu, in latitude 15 degrees 14 minutes 10 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 34 minutes 45 seconds, is PORT GEORGE THE FOURTH, having midway in its entrance a high island nearly two miles long; and to the southward, in the centre of the port, a high rocky islet, the LUMP, the summit of which is situated in latitude 15 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 37 minutes 50 seconds. The western side of the port is an extensive island, AUGUSTUS ISLAND, eleven miles long; it is high and rocky, and has several bays on its eastern side. The port affords very good anchorage, particularly between Entrance Island and the Lump, in nine fathoms, mud; but there is also very good anchorage with the Lump bearing west, in ten fathoms, mud. Port George the Fourth terminates in a strait, ROGER'S STRAIT, communicating with Camden Bay. The best entrance to the port is on the eastern side of Entrance Island; for the opposite, although practicable and sufficiently deep for the largest ships, is narrow, and must be buoyed before it can be used.
POINT ADIEU is the last land seen by us in 1820: it is the north-east end of Augustus Island, and is a rocky, bluff point. In the offing, at the distance of three miles, there is a considerable range of reefs, that extend from the peaked island of Jackson's Isles; and more to the north-west is another group of rocky islands.
To the westward of Augustus Island is a range of islands extending for five leagues; on their north side they are fronted by considerable coral reefs, which at low water are dry; besides which there are several small islets that contract the channels, and render the navigation intricate and difficult. Between Augustus and Byam Martin's Islands there is an open strait, of one mile and a half wide; but, its communication with the sea to the north, appears to be little more than half a mile. BYAM MARTIN'S ISLAND is separated from a range of small islets, extending North-North-East by a strait; and these last are divided from the Champagny Isles by another strait, from twenty-eight to thirty fathoms deep, through which the tide runs with great force. Off the north end of Byam Martin's Island are several smaller islets and coral reefs; the latter extend from it for more than six miles: the north-westernmost of these islets is the land seen in 1801 by Captain Heywood, and was called by him Vulcan Point: RED ISLAND, which he also saw, is eight miles to the westward; it is in latitude 15 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 15 minutes 45 seconds: between it and Champagny Isles the ebbing tide uncovered several extensive reefs. Ten miles North 26 degrees East from Red Island, and South 71 degrees West from Freycinet's Island, is a dry sandbank surrounded by a reef.
DEGERANDO ISLAND, so called by the French, is the southernmost of the CHAMPAGNY ISLES: considerable reefs extend off its south end, which are dry at low water; its centre is in latitude 15 degrees 20 minutes 45 seconds, and longitude 124 degrees 13 minutes 15 seconds.
CAMDEN BAY is formed between Byam Martin's Island and Pratt's Islands, and extends to the eastward to Roger's Strait; it is twelve miles deep and eight wide. Here the tide rose and fell thirty-seven feet and a half, the moon's age being nineteen days. High water took place thirteen minutes after the moon's transit.
Between Camden Bay and Point Swan, a distance of ninety miles, the mainland falls back, and forms a very considerable opening fronted by a multitude of islands, islets, and reefs, into which, from our loss of anchors; we were not able to penetrate. From Camden Bay the islands, for the coast seemed too irregular to be the mainland, extend in a range in a south direction for more than fifty-five miles, to where there appeared to be a deep opening, or strait, from three to five miles wide. An irregular line of coast then appeared to extend for seven leagues to the North-West, and afterwards to the westward for five or six leagues. To the westward of this, the land appeared to be less continuous, and to be formed by a mass of islands separated by deep and narrow straits, through some of which the tide was observed to rush with considerable strength, foaming and curling in its stream, as if it were rushing through a bed of rocks: this was particularly observed among the islands to the south of Macleay's Islands. After extending for thirty miles farther to the South-West, the land terminates evidently in islands, which then trend to the South-East; and to the westward they are separated from Cygnet Bay, and the land to the southward of it by a strait five or six leagues wide. The narrowest part of this strait is at Point Cunningham, where it is twelve miles wide; two-thirds over to the islands are two rocky islets, which bear due south from Sunday Strait.
MONTGOMERY ISLANDS, a group of seven islets on the eastern side of this extensive range of islands, which are named BUCCANEER'S ARCHIPELAGO, are low and of small extent, particularly the six easternmost, none of which are a mile long: the westernmost, which has an extensive reef stretching to the North-West, is more than three miles in diameter, and appears to be of different formation to the other, being low and flat, whilst the rest are scarcely better than a heap of stones, slightly clothed with vegetation. Between the easternmost islet and the land, there is a strait of a league in width. The tide prevented our trying its depth: a league and a half to the north-west, at high-water, we had irregular soundings between ten and sixteen fathoms, but six fathoms must be deducted from it to reduce it to the depth at low water.
Three leagues to the north-west of Montgomery's westernmost island are COCKELL'S ISLES, two in number, low and flat, but of small size. A reef extends for more than five miles to the westward, and it was not thought improbable that it might be connected with the reefs that extend to the westward of Montgomery Islands. The centre of the largest island is in 15 degrees 48 minutes South, and 124 degrees 4 minutes East. To the North-East of Cockell's Islands the flood-tide sets to the south; but to the westward with great strength to the South-East, and, at an anchorage ten miles to the eastward of Macleay Isles, the tide rose and fell thirty-six feet, the moon being twenty-one days old. Cockell's Islands are twenty miles from the land to the south; and in this interval, but within four leagues from the shore, are several small rocky islets, on one of which there is a remarkable lump; nearer the shore are two islands, which have a more fertile and verdant appearance than any other part near them: these form the western extremity of COLLIER'S BAY.