On the second day after our coming, anIndianChief arrived at the factory from LakeWinnepeg, and some of our officers brought him on board. He staid with us two days; and as he was the Chief of one of those tribes who still maintain a great part of their primeval manners,untaintedbyEuropeancivilization, a full description of him may not be thought unentertaining.
This man had been brought from LordSelkirk’scolony, atRed River, toYork Factory, by CaptainMcDonald, the chief of the colony. As far as I could collect, his tribe are properly called theSotees, or people who go up and down the falls of rivers. But they have been styledBongeesby theBritish, from their being addicted to mendacity; and as they are always crying out “Bongee!” which, in their tongue, signifies “a little,” perhaps, too, the colonists mayhave thought the appellation peculiarly adapted to theSotees, as they are but a weak tribe in point of numbers.
The Chief in question was about five feet eight inches high, and, to all appearance, about thirty years of age. It seems that he had some claims to the territory on which LordSelkirk’scolony now stands; but he had sold his birth-right “for a mess of pottage.” Therefore, to keep him in good humour with the infant establishment, he had been brought down on a visit toYork Factory, where it was intended that he should receive an accumulation of honours. A coat of coarse blue cloth, tawdrily ornamented with tarnished lace, and adorned with shoulder-knots; a round hat, with a red ostrich feather in front; a very coarse white shirt, with frill and ruffles; a pair of red stockings, yellow garters, and black shoes, were presented to him immediatelyupon his arrival. If we add to all this finery, his native ornaments, such as a neck-band of wampum or bead-work[34], a long string of beads suspended by his hair from each temple, and a number of large metal links of the coarsest workmanship, dangling from either ear, his appearance will naturally be imagined to have bordered upon the grotesque. His thighs were entirely naked, as he could not be prevailed upon to fetter them with breeches; and the cartilage of his nose had been perforated.
He appeared a very intelligent man, and was highly delighted with every thing he saw on board the ship. He was not particularly pleased with any of our musical instruments, except the drum. A sky-rocket struck him quite dumb with astonishment; and he afterwards observed to a person who understood his language, “That theWater-Governors[35]must be very powerful, who could thus force the stars to fall from the sky.” Like mostIndians, he was a great egotist, and the general tenor of his conversation ran upon his dignity. He observed that he was a Governor, like ourselves; and when the snow became deep on the ground, his tribe were going out, under his command, to make war upon theSweeTribe; and that after quitting his own territory, he expected to meet his enemy in eight days. He exulted that he had already killed two of theSweenation with his own hand; and he gave us to understand, that his own tribe always made war on horseback. We presented him with a cutlass, at which he was delighted, waving it above his head, and boasting what wonders he should be able to perform by its assistance. Upon the whole, he was rather a swaggerer; but,perhaps, this was a little excusable; because, according to the character given of him by thoseEuropeanswho had heard of his fame, he had acquired an amazing influence amongst many savage tribes, by his courage and wisdom. Indeed, his remaining two days with us, perfectly easy and contented, is a proof that he possessed a good share of the former quality; particularly as we were all utter strangers to him, and he had neither seen the sea nor a ship before in his life: nor did he appear to be at all deficient in the more tender susceptibilities of nature. He had two wives, four sons, and six daughters; and when I presented him with a few spangles and beads, he gave me to understand, that those trifles would be received with great pleasure by his children, on his return to his native country. It surprised us much to observe with what a degree of exactness he copied all our methods of eating, drinking, &c. As wedesired to hear him sing, we took advantage of his imitative powers to make him comprehend our wishes: accordingly, the person who sat next to him began first, and the song went regularly round the table, until it reached theBongeeChief; when, instantly taking the hint, he rose up, and prefaced his ditty with a long speech, which we of course did not comprehend; but, by his gestures, we could perceive that it was evidently intended as an explanation of the subject on which he was about to sing. Then he suddenly struck off into an air that gave us a much higher opinion of the strength than the harmony of his voice. The subject, we could perceive, was an appeal to the Deity (Manito), to protect the ship from all dangers, in her voyage across the waters. We had many other songs from him during the evening: and on a special application, we were favoured with a specimen of the war-whoop, a mostdiscordant howl, produced by striking the hand quick against the mouth, and shouting at the same time. But the most farcical scene of all was the business of getting him into a bed. The purser of the ship undertook the difficult task of chambermaid; but ourIndianChief disencumbered himself of all his finery in a twinkling; and having reduced himself to a state of nature, he rolled head foremost into the bed, placing his feet upon the pillow: this produced great vexation in the mind of hisAbigail, who the next night succeeded, with much difficulty, in causing hisIndianHighness to lie down like aChristian.
On the evening of the second day, ourIndianfriend left us, to return back to his native country. He seemed to feel great regret at parting with theWater-Governors; and he gave us all to understand, that if we should hereafter visit his territories,he would insure us a hearty welcome, and a handsome bed-fellow to boot.
CaptainStopfordhaving expressed a wish to observe the manner of killing the reindeer, as practised by theIndians, and a party being accordingly made to ascend the river, we left the factory early in the morning, with a small boat of CaptainStopford’s, and a birch-bark canoe to carry the provisions, tents, &c. We continued to push along shore, against the stream, until 10A.M.when we rested at a small creek, calledDram-gat, to breakfast.Dram-gatis about seven miles from the factory: it abounds with wild-duck; and receives its name from an old custom of giving the people in the traders’ boats a dram at this spot, previously to proceeding farther on their journey up the river. The tide of the sea ceases to affect the current of the river entirely at theDram-gat.
We landed upon the bank, kindled a fire, and roasted some venison-steaks after theIndianmanner, called by themponask. Having cut a long skewer of wood, they scrape off the bark, and stick the meat upon its point. The other end of the skewer is then forced into the ground, close to the fire; and by turning it round occasionally, the food is soon sufficiently cooked. I never tasted any thing more savoury than a venison-steak prepared in this manner. After making a hearty meal, we embarked again; and two men taking out a line to the beach, we were thus laboriously dragged along shore. There are many islands and shoals on the south side of the river; whilst the northern shore is, generally speaking, steep. The mouth ofHayes’ Riveris gradually verging towards the north, in consequence of the perceptible encroachments of the water upon the north bank, and the evident emerging of islandsand shoals towards the south side of the river.
As we proceeded up the stream, we met several canoes ofIndians, deeply laden with venison for the factory. After receiving from us a small present of tobacco, they continued their course.
At 3P.M.we had reached a large circular island on the south side of the river, calledRainbow Island. The view from this spot was delightfully picturesque. The northern shore was bounded with high clay banks, covered with dark forests of the spruce-pine tree. Above us, upon the southern banks, five or six remarkable mounds of earth rose majestically from the river. At the termination of a long view upwards, the stream was lost in a sudden bend to the northward; and the vista in that direction was bounded by a noble grove of poplars,that stood on the declivity of the green sloping bank; and their bright yellow colour formed a fine contrast with the sable hue of a frowning forest in the back ground. Directly opposite to the place where we stood, severalIndiancanoes lay scattered about the shore; and the natives sat regaling themselves, around a blazing fire upon the beach. The river, glittering with the golden tints of the sun, ran smoothly beneath our feet; and a little farther down, foamed, in distant murmurs, over a shoal-bed of pebbles. Whilst we stood contemplating the varied objects in this interesting scene, a flock of wild geese flew screaming past; and a gentleman, who knew the country well, immediately observed, that we should have an “early fall;” thereby intimating that the winter would soon make its appearance. Our admiration of the fine view before us instantly gave way to other sensations; and we could not avoid wishingourselves speedily out of a country where the transition is so instantaneous, from the most oppressive heat to intense cold; where the ground is bound up in frost eight months of the year; and the miserable inhabitants are tormented to madness by heat and mosquitoes during the remaining four.
Upon leavingRainbow Island, we approached the spiral mounds of earth before mentioned. Their formation was so regular, that an enthusiastic antiquary might easily have believed them to be antientIndianTumuli; but upon a close inspection, we plainly perceived that they had been separated from the body of the bank by the ices in the spring; and they had probably assumed a circular form owing to the washing of the great floods which follow the breaking up of the rivers, and melting of the snows, at that season of the year.
Interior of a Wigwam of the Cree IndiansLondon Published by J. Mawman 16.thMay 1817
Interior of a Wigwam of the Cree IndiansLondon Published by J. Mawman 16.thMay 1817
About 5P.M.we reached a place calledPoplar-fall; and observing anIndianwigwam on the north bank, we crossed the river, and encamped within pistol-shot of it. We had pitched our tent within the wood; and from it we could discern the river, at intervals, through the openings of the trees. Although we were but a short distance from theIndianwigwam, yet the wood was so intricate, that we found it difficult to find our way thither. We, however, paid the natives a visit, and sat familiarly down in the wigwam. It contained one old and two young men, one old and one young woman, and five or six children of both sexes, besides two infants. The wigwam was a circular tent, constructed with three or four poles, lashed together at the top, and covered over with an inferior kind of leather, made of tanned deer-skins. In the midst of the tent was a blazing fire; and in the smoke above, a quantity of deer’sflesh was suspended, after the manner of bacon inEngland. On the outside of the hut, there were several stages, on which their strips of venison were exposed in the sun to dry, for the winter’s consumption. After sitting a short time with the natives, and inquiring at what part of the river the rein-deer were crossing, we were at length about to depart, when the oldIndianpresented CaptainStopfordwith eight deers’ legs, which, when roasted, are considered a great delicacy, on account of the rich marrow they contain. The young woman then gave another of our party a deer’s heart and tongue; and the old squaw, whose aspect was sufficient to give any man a dis-relish to the whole sex, kindly tossed into my lap a head and a brisket. Laden with these presents, we returned to our tents, and dined heartily off a tongue and heart,ponasked. But our kindIndianneighbours had not been so exceedingly munificentwithout entertaining strong expectations of an adequate remuneration: accordingly, the visit was soon returned by the whole horde; and the oldIndianbrought a kettle in his hand, which was intended as agentle hintthat he wished for a liquid equivalent. We therefore gave him about a quart of rum, mixed with three quarts of water, and a trifling supply of tobacco. Extraordinary as it may appear, this small donation was amply sufficient to intoxicate every member of the wigwam; and their voices resounded, in song, through the woods, for many hours after we had retired to rest.
Very shortly after the first dawn of day, we were awakened by the oldIndian: he came to inform us, that several herd of deer had already crossed the river, and that it was high time we should repair to our stations, to intercept any more which might attempt to follow; as it is an ascertained fact, thatthese animals, during their periodical journeys, are accustomed to follow each other’s footsteps.
According to the oldIndian’s advice, we proceeded about two miles farther up the river, until we reached a place calledTwenty-mile Island; so named from its distance fromYork Factory. Still pursuing the directions of the friendlyIndian, we hauled our canoe close to the beach, on the north side of the river; as, at this season of the year, the rein-deer, in pursuance of their northern journey, cross all the rivers from the southward. TheIndianproceeded with his canoe higher up the stream, and took his post opposite to the spot from whence he had seen the before-mentioned herds crossing in the morning: he then concealed himself in the high grass, by the side of his canoe; and we also followed his example. After lyingthus in ambush for a short time, a small herd, consisting of five deer and a fawn, appeared on the south bank of the river, exactly opposite the oldIndian’s canoe. The timid and wary animals stood for some time on the bank of the river, casting an inquisitive glance across the water. We all crouched closer than before, in the grass; and we had soon the satisfaction to see the whole herd leap boldly from the shore. TheIndianabove us immediately pushed across the stream with his canoe, to intercept the retreat of the deer; and this he was enabled to do unobserved, as he was also a considerable distance above the deer; and the animals neither looked to the right nor to the left, but kept their eyes anxiously fixed on the shore which they were endeavouring to reach. As our lurking-place was about half a mile lower down than the place from whence the deer had taken to the water, and the rapid current of theriver naturally drifted them downwards, they would have attempted to land close to us, had not a shoal in the river arrested their progress, upon which they mounted; and by their superior height they immediately discovered us. The deer now stood hesitating what they should do; and so in fact did we: but ourIndianco-adjutor having by this time succeeded in gaining the opposite shore, called loudly on us to rise and advance. As soon as we sprang from the grass, the affrighted herd replunged into the river, and attempted to gain the shore which they had quitted; but we pursued them across the stream with such activity, that only one effected its landing, and the remaining four again turned their heads to gain the northern bank. From this moment their deaths were considered inevitable, as the chief skill then lay in continually turning the weary animals from the shore, which we were easily enabled todo, by the superior speed of our canoe. TheIndian, meanwhile, followed close behind a large buck, until it approached the bank; when he deliberately speared it in the haunch; and as it emerged from the water, he fired a bullet into its body: yet the animal ran with speed into the wood, and we all naturally concluded it must have escaped;—but the skilful hunter smiled at the idea: “No, no,” said he; “I have it safe:—now for another;” on which, he wheeled about his canoe, and instantly speared to death an amazing fine doe. My gun being loaded with goose-shot only, I discharged it into the rump of the surviving doe, which bled profusely; I also again fired, and struck it on the nose, when my ramrod unfortunately fell overboard: however, we still kept turning the animal from the shore; and having now no weapon in the canoe wherewith we could kill it, I was obliged to halloo for theIndianto bring us aspear; accordingly, he paddled towards the deer with all his might, and, on reaching our canoe, tossed me the spear. Following the native’s example, I made a deep thrust into its haunch, which soon put an end to its existence; and putting a cord over its head, we towed it on shore in triumph.
As theIndianhad predicted, he soon found the carcase of the wounded buck, lying about ten yards within the wood. Thus we succeeded in obtainingthreeout of the originalfive: and with respect to the other two; one, as above-mentioned, made good its escape in the first instance; and the fawn also landed, whilst we were engaged with the doe.
I have been more particular in relating this expedition, because it will serve as a specimen of the general manner in which theIndiansprocure their supplies of venisonand deer-skins. There have been instances of taking the rein-deer alive, by throwing a rope about the antlers; but this can only be attempted by a boat, as the sudden plunges of the animal, when thus entangled, is very likely to upset a slight bark canoe.
From the continual crossings that we had made athwart the stream, whilst in pursuit of the deer, the current had drifted us down about two miles below our encampment, which we did not regain until towards evening; and ourIndianneighbour soon paid us a visit, to talk over the day’s sport. Having received another present ofScutee Wapper[36](rum) and tobacco, he wished us a good-night; and their songs shortly afterwards began to swell on the air; giving to us a sure indication of the liquor having had its due effect on their senses.
To conclude my account of the rein-deer ofHudson’s Bay, I must observe, that they are evidently the same species with those ofLapland; although theIndianshave never attempted to render them in any way useful for domestic purposes: but LordSelkirk, with his usual perseverance, has procured people fromSwedento train the rein-deer inHudson’s Bay; although they have not yet been a sufficient time in the country to ascertain the practicability of such a scheme[37].
If theIndiansbe so fortunate, during their hunting journeys, as to kill a rein-deer in the woods, they eat of it until they literally cannot cram another mouthful. When their meal is finished, they erect a high stage, on which they lay the remainder of the carcase, so as to secure it from the wild beasts; and then cover it with branches of trees, to defend it against the birds of prey. All this trouble is taken, that the food which they are compelled by necessity toleave behind them may be of service to some wandering tribe of hunters like themselves, who may not have been so fortunate as to have met with any deer in their journey.
When, therefore, in traversing the immense plains or forests of the interior, a half-famishedIndiandescries at a distance one of those charitable stages erected on high for his relief, he hails the cheering sight with the same feelings of delight that is experienced by a tempest-tost and bewildered sailor, when he descries, through the dark clouds of a stormy night, the cheering fire-beacon which denotes the situation of a sheltering port. Whenever anIndianhas satisfied his hunger at one of the stages in question, he marks the supporting poles with the character peculiar to his tribe; so that those to whom he is indebted for relief may perceive, on theirreturn, whether their friends have benefitted by their humane intentions. And it is a singular point of honour amongst them, that if, by the characters before mentioned, they should discover that the stage had been erected by an hostile tribe, they will rather suffer the severest pangs of hunger than be obliged to their enemy for relief.
Upon our return to the factory from the deer-hunt, we found much anxiety prevailing respecting the safety of a small schooner, which had sailed hence, on our arrival, to bring the furs fromChurchill River, and had not yet returned. There was the more foundation for such apprehensions, as it blew a heavy gale on the day after her departure, and she must consequently have been overtaken by it before she could have possibly reached her destined port. However, it was determined to wait her return untilthe 28th ofSeptember, when prudence dictated our departure, to avoid the risk of a detention for the whole winter. In the mean time, we occupied our time in procuring a stock of fresh provisions against the day of sailing. Accordingly, a party ofIndianswere despatched in pursuit of game; and in a few days they returned with eleven hundred wild geese, which they had shot in the marshes to the southward ofYork; and several other parties of the natives poured in a copious supply of venison and wild duck.
Nor were we idle ourselves, as we constantly drew theseinein the mouth of the river; but the supplies of fish thus obtained were exceedingly trifling. Of those we caught, the principal part consisted of mullet, andtittameg, a small delicate fish peculiar to the rivers ofHudson’s Bay.
Before I quit entirely this almost unknown country, I shall insert an extract from an author whose observations will serve materially to illustrate my own[38].
“The animals ofHudson’s Bayare, the moose-deer, stags, rein-deer, bears, wolves, foxes, beavers, otters, lynxes, martens, squirrels, ermines, wild-cats, and hares; of the feathered kind, geese, bustards, ducks, partridges, and all manner of wild fowl: of fish, whales, morses, seals, cod, sea-horses, and sea-unicorns: and in the rivers and fresh waters, pike, perch, carp, and trout. There have been taken in one season, atNelson River, 90,000 partridges, as large as hens; and 25,000 hares. Every thing changes white in winter; evenEuropeananimals after being a short time in the country.
“The inhabitants shew great ingenuity in kindling a fire, in clothing themselves, and in preserving their eyes: in other respects, they are very savage[39]. In their shapes and faces they do not resemble theIndians, who live to the south: they are more like theLaplandersandSamoeidsofEurope, from whom they are probably descended. Those on the sea-coast are dexterous in managing their kiacks or boats[40]. The otherAmericansseem to be of aTartaroriginal.
“In 1670, a Charter was granted to a Company, which does not consist of more than nine or ten persons, for the exclusivetrade to this Bay; and they have acted under it ever since, with great benefit to themselves. The fur and peltry trade might be carried on to a much greater extent, were it not entirely in the hands of this exclusive Company; whose interested, not to say inquisitive spirit, has been the subject of long and just complaint. The Company employ four ships, and 130 seamen[41].
“TheFrenchdestroyed the forts in 1782, valued at 500,000l.The Company export commodities to the amount of 16,000l.and bring home returns to the value of 29,340l.which yield to the revenue 3,734l.This includes the fishing inHudson’s Bay.
“This commerce, small as it is, affords great profits to the Company, and isadvantageous toGreat Britainin general; for the commodities we exchange with theIndians, for their skins and furs, are all manufactured inGreat Britain; and as theIndiansare not very nice in their choice, those things are sent of which we have the greatest plenty, and which, in the mercantile phrase, aredrugswith us.——Though the workmanship, too, happens to be, in many respects, so deficient, that no civilized people would take it off our hands, it may nevertheless be admired by theIndians. On the other hand, the skins and furs we bring fromHudson’s Bayenter largely into our manufactures, and afford us materials for a lucrative trade with many nations ofEurope. These circumstances tend to prove incontestably the immense benefit that would redound toGreat Britainby throwing open the trade toHudson’s Bay; since, even in its present restrainedstate, it is so advantageous. The exclusive Company, it is probable, do not find commerce so advantageous now as it was before we got possession ofCanada. The only attempt made to trade withLabradorhas been directed towards the fishery.
“From the journeys ofMcKenzieandHearne, a complete confirmation has arisen, that there can be no northern communication between theAtlanticandPacific Oceans, except at so high a latitude that it must be impeded by perpetual ice.
“The mouth of theCopper-mine River, as ascertained by Mr.Hearne, lies in latitude 72°N.; longitude, 119°W.ofGreenwich.”
Since theBritishhave had possession ofCanada, a strong competition has arisenbetween the people of that country and theHudson’s-Baytraders. It is therefore doubtful whether the opening of a free trade intoHudson’s Baywould be productive of those very advantageous results which Mr.Pinkertonhas supposed: the indefatigableCanadianshave contrived to carry their mercantile expeditions into almost every part of theN. W.continent ofAmerica; and it can be of little political consequence to the mother country, whether the peltry trade is made to pass throughCanadaorHudson’s Bay; except, indeed, that the opening of a free intercourse with the Bay might operate as a stimulus upon theEsquimaux, to animate their exertions in the seal and whale fisheries; as they would be then certain of finding an adequate market for their oil, whalebone, and seal-skins.
That nothing serves so effectually todeaden the spirit of mercantile application as an unjust monopoly, is evident, from an old record of the year 1742; which runs thus:—
“When theIndianscame to the factory inJune1742, they could get but a pound of gunpowder for four beaver skins, a pound of shot for one beaver, an ell of coarse cloth for fifteen, a blanket for twelve, two fish-hooks or three flints for one, a gun for twenty-five skins, a pistol for ten, a hat with a white lace for seven, an axe for four, a hedging-bill for one, a gallon of brandy for four, a checked shirt for seven; all which was sold at the monstrous profit of 2000 per cent. Notwithstanding which discouragement, theIndiansbrought down toPort Nelsonthat season 50,000 beaver skins, and 9000 martens; these beaver skins being worth five or six shillings a pound; whereasthose which theEnglishpurchase atNew Yorkare not worth more than three shillings and sixpence a pound.“Besides these skins, theIndians, during the same year (1742), brought to the factory, atChurchill, 20,000 beaver skins.”
“When theIndianscame to the factory inJune1742, they could get but a pound of gunpowder for four beaver skins, a pound of shot for one beaver, an ell of coarse cloth for fifteen, a blanket for twelve, two fish-hooks or three flints for one, a gun for twenty-five skins, a pistol for ten, a hat with a white lace for seven, an axe for four, a hedging-bill for one, a gallon of brandy for four, a checked shirt for seven; all which was sold at the monstrous profit of 2000 per cent. Notwithstanding which discouragement, theIndiansbrought down toPort Nelsonthat season 50,000 beaver skins, and 9000 martens; these beaver skins being worth five or six shillings a pound; whereasthose which theEnglishpurchase atNew Yorkare not worth more than three shillings and sixpence a pound.
“Besides these skins, theIndians, during the same year (1742), brought to the factory, atChurchill, 20,000 beaver skins.”
If theIndianswere industrious at a season when their labour was so miserably repaid, they would consequently become, at this moment, much more diligent; because, owing to the competition before noticed, they are certain of meeting with something like an adequate return for their commodities.
To this increased activity of the natives is probably owing the late very visible diminution in the staple article of their commerce, the beaver skins; as it is evident that those animals are becoming much morescarce, in consequence of the perseverance with which their haunts are sought out and invaded.
The 28th ofSeptemberhaving at length arrived, and the mercury inFahrenheit’s thermometer having sunk to 20°, we gave up all hopes of the schooner returning fromChurchill; and came to the melancholy conclusion, that she must have perished on her voyage. We therefore weighed anchor fromYork River, and steered our course towards the north, with an intention of touching, if possible, at the former place, to seek information of the schooner, and to get the furs from that factory; but a brisk gale springing up from theN. W.which was immediately against us, we gave up our design of visitingChurchill, and bore away forHudson’s Straits. From henceforward we had one continued gale in our favour, until we reached theOrkneys, afteran unparalleled quick voyage of nineteen days. In passing throughHudson’s Straits, we could perceive none of the drift-ice orEsquimaux, which were so plentiful in our voyage outwards: the former had been carried away to the ocean, by the prevalence of the southerly currents; and the latter had most probably retired to their winter habitations.
We saw, however, manyicebergsof enormous magnitude in theStraits; but, after leavingCape Resolution, we reached theOrkneyswithout noticing any more of those dangerous islands[42].
We remained at theOrkneysnineteen days before the otherHudson’s-Bayship arrived from thence; but she had experiencedmuch bad weather, and made a much longer passage than ourselves.
A few straggling remarks, made during our stay at theOrkneys, will conclude this Journal.
EnteringStromness Harbour, by theHoy Passage, the view on either hand is extremely awful and sublime.Hoy Headis a tremendous height; and it appears doubly so from a ship sailing near to it, as the western side of this craggy mountain is nearly perpendicular; so much so, indeed, that it obtained the appellation ofHoy Walls. At a particular part of this awful cliff, an immense rent has torn a large fragment from the wall; and this huge disjointed mass is now washed, on all sides, by the most terrific breakers. It stands however erect, repelling all theirshocks; and it has assumed so completely the human form, as to be styled theOld Man of Hoy. This gigantic figure may be about five hundred feet high.
If the lowness of the eastern shore gives it a less grand appearance, yet the ledges of sunken rocks, on which many a gallant vessel has perished, together with the horrid breakers roaring mountain high above them, do not fail to inspire a spectator with equal awe and terror.
The Cathedral ofSt. Magnus, atKirkwall, is built of a reddish kind of stone, in the shape of a cross; and it looks, at a short distance, much like a brick edifice. It is of very large dimensions; and appears to a stranger in a more imposing light, because it is erected on an eminence. The square tower issuing from the top of thecathedral, in the centre of the cross, was formerly surmounted by a magnificent spire; but being shattered some few years ago, by lightning, a mean brick substitute has since been erected. There is an amazing number of windows; many of which have been lately broken; and there are two in the shape of a rose, exceedingly antique and beautiful.
The doors of this structure are low and arched, surrounded by a curious embroidery of the same red stone as the rest of the building. On entering the main portal, the space not allotted to public worship, the roof is supported by a double row of enormous columns, eight on each side: they are very simple and plain, composed of square stones laid over each other horizontally, and the shafts of the pillars are of the same diameter from their capitals to their bases. Owing to themoisture of the place, a green mould has covered them, and given to the interior a most venerable aspect.
Passing up the centre of the isle between these aged pillars, we arrive at the centre of the cross, where four immense fluted columns support the spire, bells, and clock. A boarded partition then runs across the church; and a scrap of Scripture painted over a door marks out the place of modern worship. The interior of this part is neat, and ornamented with some fine specimens of carved oak, about two hundred years old. Over many of the seats are antique escutcheons of the former Earls ofOrkney. The one appertaining to Earl Patrick Stuart, last Earl ofOrkney, (who was beheaded,) was quartered with lions and ships, and inscribed thus:
ESIC · FVIT · EST · ET · ERIT=P : S
ESIC · FVIT · EST · ET · ERIT
=
P : S
We had the curiosity to go up to the belfry, by spiral staircases between the outer and inner walls of the cathedral. The number and intricacy of these dark passages was really astonishing; and the darkness of the place inspiring gloomy ideas, we fancied that it was in such dismal recesses that the bigotted monks used formerly to immure their victims. There is one fine bell, and two inferior ones, in the church, and a noble clock by aScotchmechanist. From the belfry, a small door opens upon a rough ledge about two feet wide: the view from this dizzy height was extremely fine, as the town ofKirkwall, the adjacent islands, and numerous lochs, appear to lie in a panoramic view beneath the feet: but we were truly glad to re-enter the belfry, as the want of security on the ledge quite destroyed the pleasure arising from so fine a prospect.
On leaving the Cathedral ofSt. Magnus, we stepped aside, between the enormous circular columns before mentioned, to observe the only sepulchral arch of any antique appearance in the place. There was a shield sculptured at the apex, bearing threeheartsas a device; from which we conjectured that it must have received the ashes of aDouglas—thehearthaving been the device of this family ever since the heart of the far-famedBrucewas conveyed, by that king’s desire, to theHoly Land, by an EarlDouglas[43].
This noble cathedral is said to have been built in the year 1200, and is in an excellent state of preservation.
On the right ofSt. Magnusstand the ruins of the palaces formerly inhabited bythe Earls and Bishops ofOrkney. The cathedral and palace are within a stone’s throw of each other; but the latter stands on each side of a space which appears to have been the former court-yard of the building. The entrance to this court-yard is by a low arched gateway. The palace of the Earls is in better preservation than the cathedral; and it is to be regretted, that the dilapidations to which it is exposed are suffered to take place.
The corners of the Earl’s palace are laden with immense turrets, which give the building a very heavy appearance. The main portal is a massy low doorway; and the ascent to the great hall is by a fine broad flight of stone steps. Within the hall are two arched fire-places, each sufficiently capacious to roast a whole ox at a time. One of the fire-places is formed beneath an arch constructed inthe usual way; but the other is considered as a curiosity in architecture: it is a plane arch, supported by the transverse joining of the stones without the aid of cement. The windows of the hall are high and arched, but without either frame-work or glass.
The Bishop’s palace is now nearly destroyed; and, from the unceasing attacks made upon it, will soon be entirely so.
It is difficult to ascertain the original shape of this venerable structure; there being but two walls now remaining. At the end of one of these walls is a circular tower, of great strength and solidity, which, probably, was intended for the defence of the palace. Although the Earl and the Bishop had their residences so near to each other, yet the temporal and ecclesiastical Chiefs were ever at variance, and their quarrels and intrigues occupy a large portion of theOrkneyhistory.
The town ofKirkwallconsists of one long narrow street, which, from its proximity to the sea, and its central situation, was chosen to be the metropolis of theOrkneysmany years ago: it is now a royal burgh, and it sends one member to Parliament. The street is generally damp and muddy, and there are very few good-looking houses in it. The house of a gentleman of the name ofBaikiehas five or six trees growing before it; and these are, I believe, almost the only trees inOrkney; although it be proved, from the number of roots dug up occasionally, that theOrkneys, in former times, were by no means destitute of wood[44].
The town is badly lighted; but, in this respect, it is superior toStromness; whichplace cannot boast of a single lamp. When we mentioned this inconvenience, during a conversation with one of the magistrates, he most ingeniously parried the attack, by asserting that the inhabitants were all so sober and good, that they never quitted their houses after dark; consequently the lighting of the town would be attended withunnecessaryexpense and trouble.
The people ofKirkwallboast much of theAyr, a public promenade belonging to the town. TheAyris a natural embankment, projecting like a pier into the sea, and it is washed on both sides by the water. In summer time, theAyrmust prove a very refreshing walk, and an agreeable escape from the filthy street ofKirkwall.
With regard to the people ofOrkney, it will be only necessary to add, that a mostunbounded hospitality is their leading characteristic; and perhaps an eager curiosity is also an equally prominent trait. When a stranger enters the town ofKirkwall, the intelligence of his arrival flies with the rapidity of wild-fire: the old women, with their knitting apparatus in their hands, stand staring at the doors; and they hardly suffer him to pass, before his ears are assailed by a general inquiry of “D’ye ken wha that chiel is?” This exclamation is repeated by a dozen voices at once, at every door he passes in his route; and he will perhaps feel uneasy in thus becoming an object of scrutiny to the whole population.
The people ofOrkneyare naturally grave and sober, with much outward appearance of devotion; yet, at the annual fair which is held atKirkwall, they suddenly relax into the most unbridled licentiousness: neither are they in general to beadmired for the honour or liberality of their dealings, as they delight in making what is called a “gude bargain;” and they feel no hesitation in overcharging a stranger, to accomplish this desirable end.
I shall here conclude this Narrative; merely adding, that theRosamondand her convoy again sailed from theOrkneyson the 7th ofNovember, and arrived safe at theNoreon the 17th of the same month; when an inspection having been made of theRosamond’s defects, she was reported to be totally unfit for sea, in consequence of the damage she had sustained amongst the ice ofHudson’s Straits; and she was accordingly put out of commission, and immediately advertised to be sold out of His Majesty’s service.