IVA DOLL'S SKIRT AND SEWING CASE, BINDINGS, DOLL'S BED LINEN AND A PIN CASE

Fig. 31. Gathers ready for stroking

Let us now put a band and strings on our apron. Cut two strips of material ten inches long by two inches wide. These are for the strings. Baste an eighth of an inch hem on the two long sides of each strip. Make a three-quarter of an inch hem on each string.

Over-hand the ends of the broad hem. All the hems that are basted on the strings and the material itself should be hemmed with fine stitches.

Fig. 32. Gathering Strokes

Cut another strip two and a half inches wide by five inches long. This is the band. Turn down one eighth of an inch of the material all around the band. Crease the band in half, lengthwise, so that the edges, just folded, are inside.

Find the centre of the gathered material and the centre of the opened band. Holding the wrong side of the apron toward you, pin the middle of the apron to the middle of the band. Pin the gathered side of the apron to the band, three quarters of an inch from each end of it.

Wind the gathering thread around the left-hand pin, drawing the thread up to fit the band. With the point of the needle adjust the gathers so that the fullness is evenly distributed along the band. Holdingthe gathers toward you, baste with small stitches a little above the gathering thread.

Turn up the band and on the right side of the apron hem the band in it, catching up a gather with each stitch. Some people prefer to stitch along the basting line instead of hemming (Figure 33).

Fig. 33. Taking up a gather with every stitch

Baste the other side of the band down, and hem as on the right side. Insert the strings in the band. Hem in the same way as on the band, first the right side and then the left side, and now your little apron is completed (Figure 34).

Would you not like to have a sewing apron thatyou can use as a bag when you are not wearing it? It is such an easy thing to make that after you have one for yourself you will be making them for your friends for Christmas.

Fig. 34. The apron completed

Get mother to measure you from the waist to the knees. The material for the apron should be one and a half this measurement. Turn one third of the material back. Baste the double edges together and sew with fine combination stitches.

Turn this piece inside out. Crease back one eighth of an inch edge of this pocket, as it were. Baste a piece of beading over this raw edge right around the back of the apron. Be careful not to sew up the pocket.

The beading on the back must be the same distance from the bottom as the beading in front; that is, we must keep a straight line. Sew on the extreme edges of the beading with fine running stitches, to connect it to the material. Now asthe ribbon we are to run in the beading must serve as a draw string, as well as for decoration, it will be necessary to put two pieces in. So get a narrow ribbon about one half the width of the openings in the beading. Each piece of ribbon must be long enough to go once around the apron and enough of the ends left to tie double bows—one for each side. Start one piece of the ribbon at the right-hand side of the apron and the other at the left.

The top of the apron or single piece is finished with a piece of beading which is sewed on, as on the pocket. A ribbon long enough to go around your waist and to tie a bow in the back is run through the beading (Figure 35).

Fig. 35. The apron

When the apron is not being worn your work can be placed in the large pocket and the single sectionfolded within the pocket. The ribbons are then drawn up tight and "bravo!" you have a work bag fit for a queen (Figure 36).

Fig. 36. The work bag

There are so many kinds of rents or holes that may happen to your clothes that it is worth the while to know how to mend the various kinds. There is an old adage that says, "Waste makes want," and we would spend a small fortune in clothes if every time a wee hole made its appearance we discarded the garment.

If it is a circular hole in a dress or underbody, as often happens, under the arms, we will use the square patch. Cut a piece of the same kind ofmaterial, three inches square, or larger if necessary. Turn a fold of one eighth of an inch on the four edges of this square. Crease it lengthwise and crosswise.

Fig. 37. The patch hemmed to the material

Crease the material on which the patch is to be laid lengthwise and crosswise through the tear. Pin the small piece or patch on the wrong side of the large piece, or garment, so that the creases run in the same direction. The warp must run the same way in both pieces. One sixteenth of an inch from the edges run a basting thread. Hem the four sides on the patch to the material (Figure 37).

Fig. 38. The pin in each corner of the patch

On the garment side make a crease half an inch wide, from the hemming, on the four sides. Four little squares will be formed in the corners. Crease along the diagonal of each square. Place a pin one eighth of an inch fromeach corner, within the patch (Figure 38). Cut the garment from the centre of the tear to the pins. Repeat this on each side, cutting along the crease which you made, one half inch from the hemming.

Turn in one eighth of an inch and baste. Hem all around (Figure39).

Fig. 39. The garment side of the patch

In patching material such as checked or striped ginghams, percales, or other materials, the stripes or the checks must match so that the patch is not too apparent (Figure 40).

Fig. 40. Matching the stripes

Have you ever noticed how the slit or placket of a petticoat or side opening of drawers is finished? A piece of material is put inof an odd shape to strengthen the openings. This is called a gusset. Suppose that you were making a petticoat. Join the skirt up the back from the bottom, but leave eight inches open at the top. This top opening is the placket. But let us take a small piece of material and practise making the back of a skirt. We will put a hem and a few tucks at the bottom of the material first.

Fig. 41. Basting the tuck

Make a measuring card of a straight strip with an eighth, three eighths, and three quarters of an inch notches.

Crease and fold a wide hem (three quarters of an inch), using the measuring card as a guide.

Over-hand each end of the hem. Now baste along the hem. The over-handing must be done before the basting. Now hem this wide hem.

Again, using the cardboard measure, on the right side of the model fold a crease three quarters of aninch above the hem. Begin at the right-hand side to crease and baste (Figure 41).

With a fine, even, running stitch, an eighth of an inch below the crease, make the tuck (Figure 42). Measure every few stitches to keep the seam straight.

Fig. 42. Making the tuck

If a second tuck is desired, measure from the tuck instead of the hem.

Now we are ready for the slit which is in the centre top. On the wrong side start at the top with an eighth of an inch hem, but decrease it to almost nothing right to the bottom (Figure 43). Fold the other side in the same manner. In hemming the two sides, start at the top.

Fig. 43. The placket hemmed

Now let us practise making gussetson a piece of paper. Cut a piece of paper three inches square. Fold it from corner to corner and cut (Figure 44). Turn the straight or short edges of the paper one eighth of an inch and fold along the two shorter edges (Figure 45).

Fig. 44. The triangle

Hold the paper with the straight edge down, measure it from the two points one quarter of an inch. Now cut a piece of material the size of the paper and fold like model.

Fig. 45. The short edges folded

Cut off the two points one quarter inch from each corner on the thread of the goods (Figure 46). Turn these two straight ends and the bias edge of paper one eighth of an inch (Figure47). Turn point of paper down one eighth of an inch from bias hem and crease (Figure 48).

Fig. 46. With points cut off

Now cut the muslin gusset and fold just like the paper one.

Fig. 47. All sides are now creased.

Fig. 48. The point folded over

Hold the model or skirt with right side toward you, and turn up point of gusset. Holding the wrong side of the skirt toward you, twist left side of gusset to left side of placket and over-hand to creased line, half way up the gusset (Figure 49).

Fig. 49. The gusset over-handed half way

Over-hand right side. Turn bias edge of gusset over to right side, pin, having straight edges parallel to warp and woof threads and then hem (Figure 50).

Gather the top of the skirt and put on a bandon each side of opening about the same width as the one used on the apron (Figure 51).

Fig. 50. Gusset hemmed

Fig. 51. The gusset model completed

Letus suppose that Sally Ann measures twelve inches from the crown of her head to the soles of her feet and that you would like to make her a gored skirt like mother's. Would you not feel happier if you made the pattern and then cut the skirt yourself?

Take a piece of paper twelve by nine inches wide, mark every inch on both the long sides of the paper. Lay a ruler so that it touches the centre of the space between the first and second dots on the upper edge, and between the second and third dots on the lower edge. This will form the half of the front gore of the skirt. Mark it, "half of front."

Now draw a line from the second dot on the upper edge to the centre of the space between the fourth and fifth dots of the lower edge. Connect the sixth dot on the upper and lower edges, mark this section "side gore." Connect the eleventh dot onlower and upper edges and mark this section "back." The remaining inch mark "belt." (Figure 52).

Fig. 52. The pattern drawn

Cut the pattern apart along the lines drawn.

Take a piece of muslin twenty-four by nine inches. Tear off two inches of the muslin on the length for the band and then ten inches for the back of the skirt.

Fold the remaining piece of muslin with the two short edges together so that the doubled piece measures six inches by nine. Place the straight edge of front of skirt pattern on the fold of the material and the edge of the side gore on the other edge. Pin the pattern down securely and cut through both thicknesses of the material (Figure 53).

Pin the skirt together, placing a straight edge ofa gore to a bias. Baste a quarter-inch seam along the finished edges of each gore, holding the bias edge toward you. Sew the seams up with combination stitches. Press open the seams and over-cast each one to keep it from fraying.

Fig. 53. The back, side gore and front

Fold a hem at the bottom of the skirt an inch and a quarter wide. Baste the hem so that seam comes to seam. On the front gore there will be a fullness. Gather this fullness in with fine running stitches and baste. Use a separate thread for the gathering. Now hem around the whole skirt.

Cut the placket two inches down through the centre back. Turn a hem on the right side one half inch wide and on the left one eighth inch. Sew the hem.

Lap the wide hem over the narrow at the bottomof the placket and stitch across the wide hem two rows of stitching one eighth of an inch apart.

Turn in the strip you cut off at first for the band one quarter of an inch on the two short sides and on one of the long sides.

Fig. 54. The skirt

Fold lengthwise, find centre of band and crease; one inch from this, crease again.

Place and pin band in the same way as for the gusset described in the last chapter, placing themiddle crease at the middle of front of skirt. Then pin the band also at the creases on either side of centre. Gather each side of the skirt that is left. Draw in the thread to fit belt. Spread the gathers so that most of the fullness is in the back.

Over-hand the ends and hem second side of the placket. This finishes the skirt (Figure 54).

A basket or box of some sort is very nice to have, as we have said above, for your sewing, but suppose you were going to sew with another friend and you wanted a handy case in which to carry your sewing implements? A cloth case that can be folded or rolled is very much more convenient and may be carried in the large pocket of your apron. One made of denim is inexpensive, wears well, and is highly practicable. One yard will make you a case.

Cut a piece of green denim sixteen by fifteen inches long. Turn up four inches of the material, baste down both sides. Baste a four-inch pocket on the left-hand corner of your case. The rest of the case divide in two. This will hold your darning cotton that comes on cards.

We have a pretty way of finishing this case, which is not only ornamental but strong, and that is to bind it. Get a piece of tape long enough to go around the whole case. Crease it lengthwise sothat one edge comes slightly below the other. Open it and lay it on denim and then neatly back-stitch the right side and hem the wrong. The hemming should be just below the back-stitching, and must not be seen on the right side. Allow enough tape at the corners to make a good angle. Both sides of the corner must be treated alike.

Fig. 55. The material caught from side to side

It will be well to have a needle case to match the sewing case. Cut a strip of material thirteen inches long by three and a half inches wide. Cut this strip in four parts. Get a piece of cardboard that is not too thick or of such kind that will break easily, as some of the cheaper grades of brown cardboard are apt to do. Cut four pieces, three inches wide by three and a half inches long. Thread your needle with a piece of No. 40 cotton and put a big knot at the end. Take one of the pieces of denim and apiece of the cardboard. Catch the material from side to side with stitches about one quarter of an inch apart (Figure 55). After sewing these two sides sew the third and fourth in the same manner. Cover each piece of the cardboard in this way (Figure 56). Take two of the covered pieces and over-cast them carefully together.

Fig. 56. The four sides of material caught together

You should have leaves of flannel to stick your needles in. Pink the edges of the flannel. Pinking is snipping out the edge in little points and can be done with scissors. Connect the two pieces of the needle case with two tiny bows, or a heavy thread can be made to answer the purpose. The flannel sheets are tacked through the centre like the pages in a book (Figure 57).

The third or middle compartment between the spool case and darning thread can be used for a miscellaneous pocket to hold the tape-measure, emery-bag, small scissors and other necessary articles.

Fig. 57. The flannel sheets tacked through the centre

A piece of tape stretched down on the denim with just enough spring for the package of needles to pass through is a handy way to carry them (Figure 58).

It is rather dangerous to travel with a pair of scissors with the points unprotected. In Canadaand the states that border it the Indians sell the little sweet grass protectors. A cork, however, that comes in small bottles such as you get from drug stores will protect the points of the scissors as well as the sweet grass protectors, if not as elegantly. If the scissors are too large to put in the pocket a piece of tape could be stitched down to slip them in lengthwise. The case should be folded in three parts when it is not in use and a piece of tape the same colour as the binding tied around it (Figure 59).

Fig. 58. The place for the needles

Now that you have your sewing apron and a work box, you will love to be sewing every chance you get. Suppose we plan a set of bed things for Sally Ann.First let us make a mattress. The mattress on your bed is covered, probably, with ticking, but this is too harsh for your fingers to sew, so let us select percale or zephyr, and half-inch tape for the binding; the filling can be cotton, hair, or feathers. If it is impossible to get any of these three, newspapers chipped up very fine will make an excellent padding. Many people use newspaper chippings to fill pillows for summer use.

Fig. 59. The case folded

Measure the bedstead and cut two pieces of percale or zephyr exactly the same size. Now cut a stripe of the material, one inch wide, long enough to go around the four sides of one of the pieces of the material that you have just cut.

Fig. 60. The narrow strip to the large strip

Baste the long narrow strip around one large piece. Lay the wrong side of the strip to the wrong side of the material (Figure 60). The edges must be even. Use the combination stitch of one running stitch and one back-stitch just below the basting. When the strip has been securely sewed to the four sides of the material, join the two ends together on the wrong side.

Now take your tape, which may be white or the colour of the figure in your material, and bind the edges by first running one side down and then the other (Figure 61).

Fig. 61. Binding the mattress

The other piece of material is sewed in the same manner—the wrong side of the strip to the wrong side of the material. Do not sew, however, around the entire four sides but leave about six inches open through which the filling may be passed. After basting the strip with combination stitching fill with cotton or whatever material you have on hand. Do not fill the mattress so that it will be bumpy. Put a little stick in and flatten the filling at the top.Now sew the opening up and we are ready to quilt the mattress.

Thread a large needle with two pieces of heavy cotton floss or wool. Push your needle through to the other side, letting a short end extend above the mattress. Bring your needle back again close to where it came out (Figure 62). Unthread the needle and tie the ends tightly. Cut off what is left and repeat again two and a half inches over. It is best to quilt in rows; that is, to start two inches in from the long side and make a row parallel with the tape. The next row is made two and a half inches farther over and the next row of knots should come in between the first row of dots.

Fig. 62. Quilting

This mattress is made just like yours and the pillow is the next article we will make. The pillow should be half the width of your mattress, as we will use two on the bed. Take a piece of material twice the length desired for the pillow. Use the same kind of material as that used for the mattress. Fold the piecein two with the wrong side out. Join the two long edges and one of the short sides with the combination stitch (Figure 63). Make the stitches one quarter inch from the edge. Now turn the case inside out and fill with cotton. Turn in the edges of the open end and over-cast them together (Figure 64). As I have said before, it will be necessary to make two pillows.

Fig. 63. The pillowcase

Fig. 64. Overcasting the open end

The pillowcases can be made of lawn, cambric or muslin. Cut the material a little larger both in length and width than the pieces used for the pillow. The seams of the pillowcases will have to be felled. Along the one short side and the long side make fine running stitches, one quarter of an inch from the edge. Cut the raw edge from one side so that the other is about an eighth of an inch wider. Now fold the wider edge over like a hem so that it completely covers the cut edge and hem neatly to the material. The openend has a wide hem of say three quarters of an inch. When the hem is finished turn the case with the work inside.

For the sheets cut two pieces of muslin or lawn large enough to cover the mattress and to turn under. The selvage edge of the material should run the length of the sheet. Turn in a quarter-inch hem on the two long sides of each sheet and hem. Now turn a one-inch hem at the top and bottom of each sheet. This completes the sheet (Figure 65).

Fig. 65. The sheet

A blanket is of course very necessary to have and it can be made of a piece of an old blanket or of canton flannel, cashmere, or plain flannel. If a piece of blanket is used, finish the edges with the blanket stitch which is described in Chapter twelve of the book.

The flannel, cashmere, or canton flannel is finished by turning the edges over a quarter of an inch and herring boning or cat-stitching them to the material (Figure 66). For cat-stitching see diagram in Chapter nine.

Fig. 66. The blanket

No bed is complete without a counterpane of some sort and this can be made as fancy as you desire. A pretty one is made of strips of insertion joined together by fine over-casting or fagotting. Fagotting is explained in Chapter twenty. A row of edging will have to be sewed like a ruffle around the two long and one short sides to complete the counterpane.

Fig. 67. The crow's foot and spider on checked gingham

If a very fancy counterpane is desired get a piece of checked gingham of some light colour. The check should be a quarter of an inch square. With your needle threaded with white or a shade deeper than thedarkest check make spiders on the dark squares and crow's feet on the light. Directions for making a spider are given in the chapter on "Lace Stitches."

A crow's foot is made by taking one stitch on the diagonal of the square and two on each side of it, the stitches on each side of the first one being a trifle shorter than the previous ones (Figure 67). A counterpane like this is very attractive and does not require a great deal of time to make.

Fig. 68. The envelope opened

A dainty little pin case that will make an acceptable little gift for a friend that is going to travel is the envelope pin case. Take a piece of material such as linen, cretonne, or silk and another piece ofdifferent coloured material for lining and shape one end as shown like the flap of an envelope (Figure 68). A good size is nine inches long by four inches wide.

Cut a piece of stiff paper a half inch smaller than the pieces of material. Baste the material which will be outside over the paper so that the edges are folded back one quarter on the paper. Turn a similar fold on the lining and hem it to the material as shown on the flap of the envelope opened.

Fig. 69. The envelope case closed

Now take two papers of pins and place them in the case so that they look like leaves of a book. Be careful to see that the heads of the pins are on top. Now catch the pins to the case with several long stitches which are taken below the points of the pins. Stitch a ribbon to flap of envelope and one at the bottom. Close the case and tie the ribbons and you have a handy pin case (Figure 69).

To makea good buttonhole is an accomplishment that any girl can be proud of, as it is the hardest thing in sewing. The thread should be almost double in length to that you usually take, as a joining is very clumsy in a buttonhole.

A buttonhole is a worked opening in a piece of material or garment through which a button is to be slipped. The friction caused by buttoning and unbuttoning necessitates that the worked edges should be firmly and well sewed.

Fig. 70. The first step in buttonholing

Before we make a real buttonhole, let us see how the stitch is worked. Draw a line one inch in length with the straight of the material. Take two stitchesone inch long over this line. At the extreme right of the stitches insert your needle, threaded with No. 40 cotton. Take a stitch about a sixteenth of an inch below the line. While the needle is still in the material—you are working from left to right—(Figure 70), carry the thread under its point from the left, to the right side of the needle. The enlarged cut showing this stitch is very plain. The needle is then drawn through the material toward the chest and then straight from it. The next stitch and every other stitch must be identical with the first, the difference being that each stitch is then a little farther to the left. Every stitch must be the same length.

Now let us prepare to make the stitch on a fold. Fold a band in three equal parts. Pass the needle between the folds and bring it out on the edge. Hold the end of the thread with the left thumb. Carry the needle to the back of the fold and insert the point through the fifth thread of the material from the edge. The double thread at the edge of the needle is brought around the point of the needle from left to right and drawn out. (Figure 71).

A tailor's buttonhole is made slightly different. The needle is placed in the same position as in the ordinary buttonhole. The thread is brought fromthe top of the stitch and the doubled thread is brought around under the point of the needle from right to left (Figure 72).

Fig. 71. The position of the needle in buttonholing

Fig. 72. A tailor's buttonhole

The corners of the buttonhole are worked in two ways, either barred or rounded. The round corners are worked in the same buttonhole stitch, only itis twice the depth of the buttonholing along the two edges. Five or seven stitches will be sufficient for a corner or the ridge of the buttonholing will be too crowded.

The bar or braced end of the buttonhole is a little more difficult. It is necessary to bar a buttonhole for heavy woollen materials such as men's coats, or your own cloak, or outer wraps (Figure 72). Generally the first end of the buttonhole is rounded and the last end barred (Figure 73).

Fig. 73. The buttonhole with one end rounded and the other barred

Work around the buttonhole end when the last stitch has been made, turn the material so that the work lies across your forefinger. Pass the needle over the extreme left of the stitch, (Figure 74). Work four stitches the same length as those of the two sides of the buttonhole, and then insert the needle through the ridge of the first buttonhole stitch. The ridge of the bar faces the buttonhole. This bar should be just the width of the buttonhole. Nine stitches are usually sufficient for it.

Fig. 74. Barring the buttonhole

Tailors run two or three strands at the base of the buttonhole before working the nine stitches.The stitches are not taken through the material but only over the threads.

A buttonhole is fastened off on the wrong side at the base of the stitch.

The most important step is to cut the buttonhole straight. The buttonhole should be a trifle longer than the button. It should be cut in the opposite direction to which the strain will be. For instance on the back of the waist the buttonholes should run crosswise, for the movement of the shoulders spreads the buttonhole lengthwise. On the bands around the waist buttonholes are made lengthwise.

A sharp pair of scissors or a penknife should be used for cutting the holes. Insert the point of the scissors or knife through the centre of the buttonhole. Cut one side, then the other, along a thread of the material.

The thread is fastened securely on the wrong side of the left-hand corner. Use No. 40 sewing cotton for buttonholes, unless on very fine material, when No. 60 should be used. Sometimes it is well to over-cast the raw edges before working the buttonhole. A thread should always start at the extreme lower left-hand corner.

The backs of yokes should be fastened with loops and fine buttons. To make a loop, span the threadacross the edge of the material in a loop large enough to slip the button through. Let the last stitch be on the right-hand side. Now place the threaded needle under the strands of thread letting the thread fall under the point of the needle. Repeat in this manner till the strands are entirely covered. The ridge or purled edge of this stitch will be on the outside of the loop.

Fig. 75. Loops made of threads

Hooks are sometimes caught into loops, but they are made directly on the material instead of sewed on the edge. The strands of thread, however, are not as loose as the buttonloops. The diagram (Figure 75) of the two loops will convey a clear idea of how the threads are spanned and covered.

The last step in sewing is cutting from a given pattern. An old garment that fits well, ripped apart makes an excellent pattern and requires very little fitting. Press the pieces before using them as a pattern. Lay the material so that the selvage runs lengthwise, that is, from head to foot. Onlyone half of the garment is necessary for a pattern, as the material is doubled or folded lengthwise (Figure 76). The centre front of the skirt or waist is always placed on the fold of the material and either basted or pinned down before cutting.

Fig. 76. The centre front on fold

Collars, cuffs, bands, and sleeves are cut with the selvage running their length. Cut any part of a garment such as sleeves, waist, or skirt through two thicknesses of material so that both sides will be exactly alike. This does not refer to the front gore of a skirt. When the material has a right and wrong side the right sides should face each other before cutting the pattern.

Handkerchiefs or frills should be cut along a thread so that the edges may be perfectly straight.

Be sure that the material lies perfectly flat under the pattern. Pin the centre first to keep it from slipping before pinning the edges. Pin the entire garment before cutting anything, so that you can be sure that your material will be sufficient. This also gives you an opportunity to see where to put the smaller pieces and economize with the material.

A large pair of scissors should be used in cutting. The blunt-pointed blade is next to the board or table. It is well to practise on paper and plan the pattern before using the pattern on the cloth.

Bias bands should be cut on the bias of the material. Cut a square piece of material and fold it cat-a-corner. Cut along the fold and you will get a true bias.

Bands to finish the necks of undergarments or around armholes should be cut on the bias. In fact, any curved edge that has to be faced should be faced with a bias instead of a straight band.

Now suppose we make a real dress for Sally Ann that will be put together and finished just like one of your own dresses. The style we will select will be on the order of a French dress, that is, a long waist and short skirt. The pattern for the waist is in seven parts: they are the front, side front, back, side back, sleeve, collar, and cuff. The skirt is only one piece.

Three quarters of a yard of material will be sufficient to make a dress for a doll from eighteen to twenty inches in height.

In all patterns that are bought only one half is given; sometimes all the seams—which are a very important part of a dress—are given and sometimesthey are omitted. Any pattern that is published by a reliable firm tells on the envelope whether you should allow for the seams or not.

The pattern is usually of tissue paper and each piece has perforations or holes of different shapes. One shape means this side must be placed on the fold of the material, another shape or perforation the same shape only grouped differently, means that the pattern should be placed on a straight thread of the material. Still another means "gather here." If there are tucks in the pattern they are usually indicated. Where the seams join each other, little notches are made and corresponding notches are placed together and pinned after the pattern is cut.

Let us suppose the material is forty-five inches wide. Place the centre of the skirt on the fold of the material and pin in place. Your pattern should be planned and pinned on a flat surface such as a sewing table. Place the pins through the tissue pattern and both thicknesses of the material, letting the head and the point of the pin be visible to the eye. Do not cut any piece of your pattern until you have planned and pinned every piece, as that is the only way you can economize on your material (Figure 77). Often a pattern cut before each piece isplanned comes to grief if an over-supply of material has not been provided.

The centre front is also placed on the fold of the material as well as the centre, back and collar. The sleeves are now fitted in, so that the perforations rest on the straight thread of the material. The side front and back and cuffs are also pinned to the material. The pattern now pinned, take a large pair of cutting scissors and holding the blunt part toward the table, cut close to the tissue pattern, or if no seams are allowed, the width stated in directions should be allowed for the seams.

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