XXIIIRAFFIA HATS

Photograph by Mary G. HuntsmanIt is Jolly to Make a Raffia Work Bag

Photograph by Mary G. Huntsman

It is Jolly to Make a Raffia Work Bag

Wind the raffia around the rattan until the coil has been brought half way around the second time, when it is again sewed through the centre. At quarter distance all the way through the basket these joinings are made and they must be made to the right of the one below and joined to the previous row. The joinings form a pattern.

As the basket grows larger the number of joinings increase. New needlefuls of raffia are always started at a joining, the old strand being brought from left to right through the upper part of the joining. The new strands being brought from right to left through two twists of raffia and drawn through so as to leave the short end lying next to the rattan.

Begin to wind again and soon both ends are covered. When you have made about ten rows, which will form the bottom of the basket, bring the rattan above the last row and proceed as before. Each new row is brought above the previous one so as to form the sides of the basket. When the basket is about eight rows high, the ninth row is brought just a little inside of the eighth so as to have something for the cover to rest upon. When about three inches from the point where the rattan was brought up to make the sides of the basket, it should be cut long enough to finish the row and then shaved off to a flat pointwhich is sewed closely to the last row. For this basket we will have to make a cover.

The cover is made in the same manner as the bottom of the basket. When you have nine rows complete, a border is made to finish off the cover. The tenth row is sewed to the ninth by a fancy stitch which is made by winding once around the ninth from left to right and once around the tenth from right to left and so on alternately until the row is completed.

The end of the rattan is shaved off and sewed to the last row. A pretty lining would beautify this article very much.

One of the very simple things which a very small child could easily make is a napkin ring (Figure 204).

Fig. 204. The napkin ring

Cut a piece of cardboard or stiff paper about an inch and a half wide and eight or nine inches long. Paste the ends together forming the ring. Take two strands of raffia and knot them. Place the knot inside the ring holding it with the first two fingers of the left hand. The strand on the right is brought up and across the ring on the top, the end hanging over the left side. The strand on the left is brought around the right strand under again through the ring and out on the right through theloop made by the right strand in turning and crossing the ring. Pull both ends. The strand on the left is brought across the ring, the right strand placed over it through the ring and out through the loop on the opposite side. Pull both ends. The little knot formed on the edge is called "Solomon's Knot" and it makes a very desirable edge.

Different colours may be used in raffia which brighten the ring very much and make the work more interesting.

When the strands of raffia come to an end, a new one is joined by placing the end over the old one about an inch or an inch and a half, and working with them as one. The ends may be cut off after the ring is finished. Sometimes a small bunch of raffia about an inch long is tied to the outside of the ring. The ends are frayed out to add to the effect.

There is one article which proves to be most delightful and interesting to make (that is, to the girls) a doll's hat (Figure 205).

I think that nearly every little girl knows how tobraid raffia and after you have learned how to sew this braid together you can make any size or shape in hats.

Braid some raffia, say about two or three yards. Have several loose strands and a needle and scissors.

Fig. 205. A doll's braided hat

Just as in making large hats we begin with the centre of the crown. A needle is threaded with a fine strand of raffia and the work is begun by winding the end several times with the end of the strand threading the needle.

A coil is then started with the edge of the braid up, not the face, and it is sewed through at least two braids at a time, in stitches which run in the direction of the braid. The needle is put in slanting down from right to left and up in the opposite direction. The crown is coiled round and rounduntil it is about two or two and a half inches large. The coil is then brought round with the upper edge just below the centre of the last row. The following rows are sewed in the same way until the crown is completed or high enough to suit you. Have care in sewing the braid so as to show as little of the stitches as possible. The brim is made by flattening out the braid and sewing it so that it overlaps the centre of the braid of each preceding row.

When the brim is wide enough one or two rows are sewed more tightly than the others and the end of the braid is sewed under the brim very flatly. Now the hat is ready to be trimmed.

I would like to tell a little about the handles of baskets in this chapter. In most of the baskets already described a cover has been made. Some people would rather have a handle to the basket, so let us see if we cannot learn how to make some handles. The twisted handle of rattan is made by using one spoke of rattan of suitable length, and a weaver. A knitting needle or something similar will be necessary for the work.

The needle is pushed down beside a spoke of the basket and then drawn out again to make room for the end of the rattan to be pushed in, about three inches below the top of the basket. The otherend is inserted in the same way on the opposite side. This makes the foundation handle. The end of the weaver is inserted under the third row of weaving to the left of the spoke and pushed up between the weaving. It is twisted around the foundation about an inch apart. When the opposite side is reached, the weaver is pushed in under the third row of weaving on one side of the handle spoke and brought out on the other side. The weaver is then laid across the first twist and each of the following ones, to the other side where it goes under the third row as on the opposite side. About five or six times across will cover the handle. The weaver is fastened off by bringing it inside the basket across a spoke, in again, and then cut off.

The braided handle is made by using six pieces of rattan braiding using two pieces in each strand.

While weaving the basket, three pieces are pushed in on each side of a spoke and the weaving is continued over the spokes.

The double ring handle is made by twisting rattan into rings and sewing the rings to the weaving of the basket on opposite sides.

In sewing baskets or other articles, different kinds of stitches are used. To put a hat together the braids are sewed together with a plain stitch,whereas in putting a basket together a fancy stitch is employed.

The Indians are famous for the various kinds of fancy stitches, which they have used in making basketry articles.

The skip stitch which is used in sewed baskets is made by enclosing two spokes at a time or enclosing one spoke between every two.

Another useful and decorative stitch which is often used is the split stitch. The spokes are twined with raffia for a certain distance and then are split in two and the right spoke of one is joined to the left spoke of the other and twined with raffia as one.

Sometimes in making a cover for a hanging jar the spokes radiating from the centre are brought diagonally across each other and joined together by the winding stitch.

Many of the simple lace stitches described in a preceding chapter prove very useful in basketry work.

To make the melon-shaped basket shown inFigure 206a six-inch pair of embroidery hoops will be needed. One hoop is placed inside of the other. The inside hoop is perpendicular while the other one is horizontal. Tie the two rings together at the point of intersection.

From basket splint one sixteenth of an inch thick, cut six strips which are ten inches in length. They should be one inch and three quarters in the centre and taper to points at both ends.

Fig. 206. A melon-shaped basket

Select raffia in two shades. The natural and brown were used for this basket. With a strand of the brown start to weave at the point of intersection.

Wind around the four pieces of hoop until a square about one and a half inches is made. Repeat on the opposite side of the hoops.

Photograph by Mary G. HuntsmanSewed Raffia Baskets Make Attractive Gifts

Photograph by Mary G. Huntsman

Sewed Raffia Baskets Make Attractive Gifts

Take two of these pieces of prepared basket splints and insert them in the centre of both squares.First one side of the pieces is inserted in the square and then the other end of the ribs is inserted in the other square. The natural colour raffia is now used to weave over the hoops and ribs. The weaving is done over and under and back and forth from side to side until there are a dozen rows of weaving. The other side of the basket is treated in like manner.

The other four ribs are inserted two on each side of those previously placed. Now begin and weave all the way across. Weave several rows of brown then the natural raffia. You will put in more or less of the brown raffia as you desire, only the pattern on each side of the centre must agree.

Instead of weaving from one side and then across to the other, it is a better plan to weave a little first on one side of the basket and then on the other. In this way you are sure of your pattern.

Fig. 207. The cover

If the raffia is threaded in a large needle it is easier to weave.

Another strand or more is wound around the handle. A basket such as this makes an attractive fruit basket and is just the thing to give to sick friends or to use when going berrying.

Fig. 208. Buttonholing the cardboard

Raffia can be used in many ways as you have already seen. A pretty box for jewellery is one that is almost as easy to make as the napkin ring. Get a sheet of thin white cardboard. The brown cardboard is a very weak material and easily bends and breaks. Cut two circles of cardboard five inches in diameter. Use compasses to inscribe the circle, so that it may be perfect. Then cut a strip seventeen inches long by two inches wide. From the centre of one of the circles cut a two-inch circle. This piece will be the top of the box. Now thread your needle with a strand of the raffia which has been soaked in water and buttonhole in raffia over the cardboard. When the cardboard has been entirely covered with the raffia stitches (Figure 207) take the other circle of cardboard andcut a half-inch circle from the centre. Cover this piece of cardboard like the top. (Figure 208). The raffia should be wiped before using it; if not the water will spoil the cardboard.

Fig. 209. A simple basket box

The centre opening on the cover will be filled with a spider-in-its-web. Make four strands of raffia across the space. We now have eight spokes. Take the threaded needle back to the centre and having passed under a spoke go back and pick it up. The idea is to go back over one and forward under two. Continue in this manner till the spider is the size you desire.

The long strip of cardboard is sewed together and is worked like the napkin ring. With a strand of raffia, cast or bind the bottom of the box to the side. The top is fastened on one side with two strands of raffia which are tied in a bow. The extra ends are cut off.

Manyof our little girls have made any number of dolls' hats by just braiding raffia and sewing the braids together.

If you were to make a large hat (by this I mean a hat large enough to wear yourself) by sewing braids of raffia together, it would be entirely too heavy and also would fall into any shape, perhaps not a very desirable one.

The only thing to do would be to procure a wire frame and to make the raffia hat on it.

In order to do this we will have to braid enough raffia for the whole hat before doing anything else.

For this kind of braiding the raffia will have to be soaked in water and then rolled out so that the strands will look like pieces of ribbon about three quarters of an inch wide.

You may use a five, seven, or nine strand braid for this hat. Take one long strand of raffia and place it horizontally on a flat surface. Tie seven long pieces to the horizontal piece as shown inFigure 210.

Begin with the last strand on the right-hand side and weave it over the next, under the following one, etc., toward the left side letting it hang out to the left. Take the next strand on the right and weave it in the same manner as the preceding one.

Fig. 210. Weaving the raffia

When the left-hand side is reached, drop the first left-hand one with the rest and let the new weaver hang out till the next is brought over. The first one, when it reaches the left side, is always turned over the last weaver just brought over before dropping it (the first one) into place with the others.

When the first set of strands are used, replace them one at a time by using the new and old together about two inches from the end of each.

It will take about eighteen or twenty yards of braiding to cover the frame. When the braiding is ready to sew on the hat, begin with the centre of the crown. When the crown is entirely covered, start with the brim and begin sewing the coils together to the frame at the base of the crown. The under side of the brim may be covered with silk or material of a similar kind, or if you prefer to have it, covered with braid sewed on in the same manner as the outside, beginning at the base of the crown.

When the whole hat frame has been covered with the braiding, you may roll it in the front or on the side, or in fact any place to suit yourself. A nice large bow of ribbon placed on the hat in a becoming fashion would make it very attractive, or for those who prefer flowers and ribbon the hat trimmed in this manner would be equally charming.

A woven raffia hat made on a wire frame is a very charming and neat creation.

It takes time and patience and skill to make the hat, but when it is finished you are doubly repaid for your work and the time spent on it.

The crown is woven first and then fitted to the crown of the wire frame. Take a small strand of raffia to make a ring of very small dimensions, say about one quarter of an inch in diameter. To thisring, knot eight strands of raffia as shown inFigure 211. Eight more strands are tied around each of the eight strands, using the very pretty and effective "Solomon's Knot."

Fig. 211. The crown of the hat

This knot is a very simple twist and may be tied either with a double or single strand. The strand which is tied on is laid first under the main double strand and then both ends are crossed over each other. The right one goes first under the end of the left-hand one and over the double middle strand and then again under the loop of the left-hand one.

It would be well to practise with strands of raffia other than those used in making the hat so as to become quite familiar with the knot before using it on the hat. Counting the eight strands tied to thering and the sixty-four strands that are Solomon-knotted to the original eight we have seventy-two strands in all. They start from a common centre and are brought down and outward through the pattern and are knotted one by one onto the main strands as they cross.

If you were to trace any one of the seventy-two strands you will find that it comes to the outside edge of the square through a very simple course. The last or eighth strand, knotted to the main strands, is used to tie up the bunch of strands coming from the sides of the diamond. It falls into place with the other strands and is tied up in turn as the others are. The larger knot tying up the bunch of raffia in the centre of the diamond is the same kind of knot as the smaller ones. It may look slightly different in composition, but that is due to the fact that it is being tied around a larger bulk.

After the knots have been all tied at the edges of the diamonds, the ends are woven under and over making a sort of a square design as shown in the illustration.

The finishing of the crown is done by taking four strands, two from each of the squares at the centre, and knotting them together with a simple knot. Two from each side are knotted together.

If you find that the strands do not come out in sets of four, make an extra strand by splitting in two one of the other strands.

The brim of the hat is not so tedious to make as the crown and having a larger surface on which to work you will find that the progress is more rapid and requires less time and energy.

Knot on the outer wire of the frame as many strands of raffia as will fit very closely but easily side by side and then tie them into loops such as were used on the edge of the crown of the hat. This loop is the same as that used in making the shopping bags and hammocks described in the next chapter.

You may use your own judgment in designing the brim. The outer edge may be made of the same loops that we have just spoken of. On the next row the strands of raffia are drawn down tightly and tied around the wire with a simple knot.

Alternate these two designs and you will have a very pretty brim.

To finish off the edge on the brim, cut the ends off to about three quarters of an inch in length and sew them in under the wire with a needle threaded with fine raffia. A tapestry needle or a darning needle would do for this purpose.

The trimming for this hat could be easily made of raffia. I will leave it to the maker to decide what would be most suitable to the taste. I might suggest such articles as buckles made of raffia or rattan or perhaps quills made of raffia.

If you do not care to have the hat trimmed with its own material, velvet ribbon, satin, flowers, quills, etc., would make a desirable trimming.

A very bewitching hat of a plain, three-strand braid of raffia can be easily made with very little trouble.

The raffia has to be soaked in water until it is soft. Unroll each strip and it will probably be about three quarters of an inch wide. In order to make the braid thick enough it will be necessary to use three or four pieces in one strand of the braid. Braid about nineteen or twenty yards before beginning to make the hat.

Choose a wire frame of a low rounded crown and a broad flat brim. If you wish to change the shape of the frame after the braid is sewed on, it will be a very trifling matter.

The end at which the braid is begun forms the centre of the crown. It is bent over at about five eighths of an inch from the tip and the long end is coiled around in a second row, the edge of whichcomes an eighth of an inch under the edge of the centre. It is generally sewed on with a darning needle, threaded with a very fine strand of raffia. Use the back-stitch bringing the strand all the way through on the right side and then all the way through underneath.

The crown is made entirely by sewing the plaits together, separately from the wire frame, but it will be well to try it on the frame occasionally so that it will securely fit. When about six or seven rows have been sewed together and the crown is four or five inches high, the brim is begun. The coil of braiding is brought around more loosely and flattened out as it is sewed.

When six or seven rows have been completed, the brim at the back will be large enough. Each succeeding row will have to be cut as it gets near the back and the end fitted in under the previous row until the sides near the back are about nine or ten rows wide and the front twelve rows. It would be well to pull the coil slightly tighter as it draws nearer the outer edge so that the last rows may roll a little.

If you care to have the under brim of braided raffia it can be made in the same way, except that it is one row wider at the front and sides, to allow it to roll over the edges of the brim. It is pressed on thewrong side and attached to the under brim of the wire frame, with very small stitches of raffia. The outer edge of the under brim should not be fastened until the crown and the top brim are on the wire frame, as the top brim should come over the edge of the under brim.

The crown and the upper brim are now pressed on the inside and put on the frame to which they are caught with a stitch of raffia here and there.

The centre of the crown particularly should be firmly attached with stitching to the centre of the wire frame. A row of braiding is brought around to cover where the upper and under brims join inside the rolled brim and is sewed on either edge with small stitches of raffia.

Fig. 212. A braided hat for yourself

A hat like this would be very pretty trimmed with a satin ribbon or silk bow. A large bow at the side or the back would make it very attractive if the bow is of a contrasting colour.

Some people prefer leaves and flowers, with a little touch of silk; others quills or feathery materials. In fact it may be trimmed with material of any kind.

Knottingof raffia for dolls' hammocks, shopping bags, belts, coverings for hanging jars, and many other things proves to be a very interesting part of the basketry work.

Little girls could easily make some very pretty belts to be worn with some of their dainty frocks, and I don't know what could be more delightful than a hammock for dolly to sleep in.

First let us see how we can make dolly's hammock. We will have to have two small brass rings about three quarters of an inch in diameter, twelve pieces of raffia, and a pair of scissors.

Place one of the rings on a table or other flat surface and tie each of the twelve pieces of raffia on the ring, leaving an end about an inch long. Begin and tie simple knots three inches from the ring and one inch apart, knotting the strands two and two until nine or ten rows have been completed. Finish the hammock by fastening the ends threeinches from the last row of knots, to the other ring. The hammock is ready for Sally Ann to have a nap.

The next thing to do is to make a shopping bag, to carry all the small bundles when you go down town to buy dolls' clothes.

This little bag is made with the same kind of knotting, only the number of strands and the arrangement of them differ (Figure 213).

Twenty-two strands of raffia and a pair of scissors are necessary. Arrange twenty of the strands in pairs, and tie each pair in the centre. Place them on a table with the knots side by side, leaving a little less than ten inches on each side of the knots. Begin on one side of the centre knots, and tie one strand from one knot to the next strand from the next knot. They must be an inch from the first knots. Tie the same two strands an inch from the centre on the opposite side. In the same way tie the outside strands of this group to form the corners. Tie them one inch from the first centre knot. Make ten rows of knots an inch apart. When these have been completed, the bag is ready for the handles.

Separate the strands on one side of the bag from those on the other. Divide the group on one side in half. Fasten each group one and a half inches beyond the last row of knots. Braid the strandsabout six inches. Do the same with each group, making four braids in all. Hold the two braids from one end of the bag together so that the loose ends of one braid overlap the other. Beginning at the middle point make a binding one and a half inches to the right and a similar one to the left. Cover the binding with "Solomon's Knots." Keep the lines of knotting straight. Finish the opposite handle in the same way.

Fig. 213. A shopping bag

Some day when you have shopping to do for your mother, take your bag along and see how handy it will be.

In the beginning of the chapter I spoke of a belt to wear with a pretty frock. A belt made of a six strand braid proves to be very serviceable to some little girls. You may use plain white raffia or a plain colour but oftentimes two colours add to the attractiveness of the belt.

Take three long pieces of raffia, that is, if the raffia is very thick; if not, six or twelve pieces using two or four pieces as one strand. Hold the strands at the centre in the left hand. Put the strand on the extreme right over and under the next two strands. The strand on the extreme left is put under, over and under the other strands. This forms a braid. Continue doing this braiding until the belt is long enough to suit you. To finish the ends tie the remaining loose strands close to the braid and cut off the ends. Turn the knots under and sew over the ends with the loop-stitch described in a preceding chapter.

In working with raffia many times an article will need something to put a finishing touch to it, I would suggest using a fringe or tassel according to the kind of work in question. In my experience they have proved to be just the thing for such purposes. For example, in knotting raffia for a work bag, the ends of the raffia may be left hanging and when cut to an even length provide a very plain finish for the bottom of the bag. Fringing or tassels would, I think, add considerably to the appearance of the article. To make fringe on the bottom of such a bag it is necessary to cut the ends an even length after the last knot has been made, and with a pin or needle fray out the ends very finely.

The way to make tassels for a finish is to wind a strand of raffia over a cardboard about two or three times, or if the tassel is to be quite thick, wind five or six times. Slip it off and bind it several times near the top with the end strand of the bag. Sew it fast with a tapestry needle. Cut through the centre of the loops. A row of these across the bottom of a bag are very effective.

Fig. 214. A whisk broom

A very dainty little article for a very small child to make is a little clothes brush or whisk broom. Secure a brass ring about one inch in diameter and cover the ring with the loop stitch. Fold twelve strands of raffia twice and slip the bunch through the ring bending it in the middle. Make a binding one inch below the ring and one inch long; cover the binding with "Solomon's Knots." Fringe the ends well and trim off evenly (Figure 214).

Knotting in silks, cotton or linen strands should be mentioned in this chapter. It is a difficult thingto find a piece of fringe that will just match the colour of silk you have but it is an easy matter to make the fringe yourself. The simplest kind is the knot fringe. It can be made of filo, rope, twisted, or heavy floss when used in connection with a silk, satin, or velvet background. For cotton or linen background, cotton floss or fine cord can be used.

Let us suppose that you wish to make the fringe into a hem. Take a cluster of six or eight strands of rope silk, ten inches in length, and draw them through the extreme edge of the hem. If the other kind of silks are used, more strands will be necessary. Knot the cluster close to the hem. At a little less than a half inch distance over make another cluster and repeat in this manner across the space on which you want the fringe.

Now take the first cluster and divide it in half. Hold the half nearest the next group in your left hand and divide the second group. Taking the half close to first group, knot the strands together one half inch from the hem. Continue like this all the way across. Do not pucker the material when knotting.

A third row of knots is now made below the second. This takes up the first half of the knot previouslyused and half of the next group. In this way you form a diamond. If a deeper fringe with more knots is desired cut the strands of silk three inches longer. For every inch of fringe allow three inches of strands.

Haveyou ever taken pop corn and made a chain of it for Christmas trees, or perhaps you have strung cranberries? Maybe it was the first time that you ever held a needle. I remember when we were youngsters living in the South, our nurse used to take us out under trees and we would string "Job's Tears" for hours. Many drug stores sell these seeds on strings for infants to cut their teeth on.

The simplest form of bead work is just as easy as stringing pop corn or berries. Beads come in all sizes from the tiny ones that are no bigger than a top of a pin to the large ones the size of a marble. Sometimes you can get odd-shaped beads, flat on one side and curved on the other. A string that is pretty enough to wear on state occasions can be made of heart-shaped and round beads.

The regular bead needle is very fine and long.It is better when stringing a single strand to double the thread. Use linen thread No. 100 or 150. Thread the needle with a piece of thread eight inches longer than double the length of the necklace. Bring the two ends together and make a knot three and a half inches from the ends of the thread. The thread will be very much stronger if you wax it. Now thread seven small round beads then an odd shaped one. Repeat in this manner till you have the length of chain desired. Cut off the needle and tie the remaining thread in a tight knot close to the beads. Ribbons are sometimes used to fasten the chain or necklace together but the little clasps that you can buy for a few cents are neater and do not get soiled as ribbon does. Fasten on the clasp with the thread that extends beyond the knots.

A sweet little daisy chain can be made on two threads. Thread two bead needles with two long threads. Bring one end of each thread together and make a knot as described above. Fasten the knot to a table with a pin so that one needle is on the right and the other one on the left. Thread two white beads on your right hand needle. Put your left hand needle down through the white bead so that you have a thread coming from each side of the beads. Your needles will have changed position.Thread the right hand needle with one yellow bead. Pass the left hand needle down through this and again the needles are reversed. Thread two more white beads like the first two and do the same thing. Now take the right hand needle and thread two more white beads and carry the needle through the first two white beads from right to left. Thread two more white beads on the same needle and carry it through the second or top group of white beads from left to right. Thread ten green beads on each of the needles and now we are ready to make another daisy (Figure 215). Continue in this manner till the necklace is complete.

Fig. 215. A daisy chain

Another and more elaborate daisy chain is made on one needle. Make a knot in the thread and string four green beads. Hold this down between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Thread one green bead and pass through the third of the four beads. Thread another green bead and pass through the first bead. Thread one white bead and pass through the green one on the left. Thread another green bead and pass through the green one to the left (Figure 216).

Third row—Thread a green, pass into a green to the left. Now thread a white bead and pass in through the first white bead.

Fig. 216. A woven daisy chain

Fourth row—Thread a yellow bead and pass through last white, and a green bead through the green.

Fifth row—A green bead through the last green, a white through the yellow.

Sixth row—A white bead through the last white, a green through the last green.

Seventh row—A white through the last green, a green through the last white of the sixth row.

Then three white beads on the needle and pass through the first white on the second row. Carry the thread through the daisy thus formed till you have it again in same position as it was before you threaded the three beads.

Eighth row—One green into the last green, one white into the last white. (Note that you are now starting another daisy on the left-hand side).

Ninth row—One yellow into last white, one green into last green.

Tenth row—One green into last green, one white into yellow.

Eleventh row—One white into last white, one green into green.

Twelfth row—One white into last green, one green into white.

Repeat the directions from the second row. Note that though the chain is four beads wide there are only two beads that you work on in each row.

If the thread breaks, start the new one, two or three rows back and go through the different beads.

The above directions are for a chain that is worked without a loom. Now-a-days it is quite possible to buy a little loom for about fifty cents, but you can make one at home that will not cost you a penny. The size of the loom will depend on what you are working but we presume that it is a chain. Should you ever make a purse it would pay you to buy a loom.

To make the home-made loom get a piece of card and a wooden meat skewer such as butchers use. Fasten the skewer down on both ends to the cardboard about two inches from the upper edge. One inch above the skewer in the direct centre make a hole and one inch from the bottom edge of the cardboard make another hole. Cut six pieces of No. 90 linenthread, thirty-six inches long. This measurement is sufficient for a chain twenty-seven inches or under. Tie one end of each thread to the skewer. Now holding the six threads together, carry them down through the bottom hole across the back of the cardboard and tie in a loose knot to the top hole.

Fig. 217. A home-made loom

Thread a bead needle with a thread of No. 100linen thread that has been well waxed. Tie the thread to the extreme right hand thread of the warp. Now we are ready to make the chain (Figure 217).

First row—Thread the needle with five yellow beads. Pass the needle toward the left under the warp threads, letting one bead slip in every space. On the left hand side bring the needle up to the right side and slip it through the five beads.

Fig. 218. The design for the chain described

Second row—Thread five blue beads and fasten them in the same way.

Third row—Thread five yellow beads.

Fourth row—Five red beads.

Fifth row—Five red beads.

Sixth row—Two red, one blue and two red.

Seventh row—One red, three blue, one red.

Eighth row—Five blue.

Ninth row—One red, three blue, one red.

Tenth row—Two red, one blue, two red.

Eleventh row—Five red.

Twelfth row—Five red.

Photograph by Mary G. HuntsmanThe Fascinating Task of Making Bead Chains

Photograph by Mary G. Huntsman

The Fascinating Task of Making Bead Chains

Continue in this manner for as many inches as needed (Figure 218). When you have used up all the warp threads on the upper side of the cardboard roll the finished chain over the skewer and fasten the remaining threads in the lower hole.

Fig. 219. Another design for chains

To make a belt or purse the larger loom will be necessary. Designs used for cross stitch are suitable for bead work.

Fig. 220. A third design for a chain

Before I tell you how to make any more bead chains and the other articles that may be made with beads, I want to tell you how to make a dainty purse that is illustrated in this chapter. It is made of gold and rose-coloured glass beads and it belongs to a bright little girl I know who has been using it for the past three years. A spool of heavy buttonhole twist of a colour to correspond to one of the coloured beads is needed (Figure 221).

Take eighteen strands of silk, each a yard long. See that the ends are all even. Tie a tight knot through the centre of the threads. Thread a bead needle with one of the strands of silk. Put on two pink beads then three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, five yellow, one pink, seven yellow, one pink, seven yellow, one pink, seven yellow, one pink, five yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, five pink, three yellow, seven pink. This completes the first string. Do not allow any beads to drop, which they are very apt to do while you are working on another row. It is suggested that the strand of silk on the left of the beads should be knotted closely to the beads to prevent them from slipping.

Back to Index Next