XXIXIRISH CROCHET LACE

Fig. 242. Doll's Hug-me-tight

Doll's Hug-Me-Tight(Figure 242).

1 skein of Saxony white.

1 skein of Shetland floss, blue.

1⅓ yards of narrow white ribbon.

Make a ch of 20 st., take up each ch with a s c.

Turn 19 s c in slipper stitch (slipper stitch is s c taken up on the back thread of the row below).Crochet back and forth in this manner until you have 8 ribs or 16 rows which form the back. Then take up 5 s c and crochet back and forth until you have 9 ribs or 18 rows, which forms the one front. Then count nine stitches for the neck, taking up the remaining 5 sts for the other front and make 9 ribs or 18 rows for the other front. Finish with a border all around of s c taking up the whole stitch,alternating the colours, 1 row blue and 1 white until you have four blue and four white, finish the whole with a blue picot.

Cut the ribbon into six pieces, sew one piece in each of the outer edges to form the armhole and front as illustrated. This jacket can be made for a child by commencing with 45 ch, 25 ribs for back and 25 ribs for fronts.

Jacket(Figure 243).

Fig. 243. Jacket in star stitch

Pompadour wool through which a thread of silk runs, was used for making this pretty jacket. Three skeins of the wool are required.

The body of the sacque is of star stitch (Figure 244).

Ch 95 on which work 11 stars, widen with 2 ch.

For sleeve make 11 stars, and back, 25 stars.

One front 11 stars. For the first 4 rows of front work 11 stars, widen with 2 ch work across sleeve, widen 2, work across back, widen 1 star every other row; at sleeve widen 2, across sleeve widen 2, then 11 stars from the front. After the 4th row continue as before, only widening 1 star at the four sleeve points for 10 rows. In 15th row work 11 stars for the sleeve, now drop out the entire sleeve, including the widening points, work across back alone, leave out sleeve as before then 11 stars for the second front; work 12 rows across sacque widening under arms as in centre back. Tie wool at point under arm and work 13 rows around sleeve joining each row as made. For border, work 4 rows of knot stitch.

Fig. 244. Star stitch

Slippers in single crochet(Figure 245).

One skein of each of two contrasting colours of Germantown wool, one pair of soles. For making these slippers in mercerized Perle cotton, which isvery cool for warmer days, two balls will be required.

In making slippers it is very essential for the work to be as tight as possible to prevent it from stretching.

Fig. 245. Slipper in single crochet

The following directions are for slipper size 3. Ch 11 sts. Make 11 s c in slipper stitch, described in doll's hug-me-tight (Figure 246) widen in the centre by making 3 s c in 1 ch. Make two rows like last widening in centre, then a row without widening. When the work reaches from the toe to the hollow part of the sole (about 12 ribs) the front is long enough.(Alternate two rows one colour and two in the other.) Turn and work 15 s c. Continue in the slipper stitch until the work will reach around the sole by stretching. Join the end to the front by overcasting on the wrong side. Beginning at the corner where the end is joined make a row of crazy stitch around to the other side. Make 3 more rows of crazy stitch. Finish with a row of shells.

Fig. 246. Slipper stitch

Directions for crazy stitch—Make a ch of 4 sts; then throw the thread once over the needle, take up the third nearest stitch to the needle, and pull it through the loop; throw the thread over again and pull it through the nearest two loops on needle and crochet the remaining two loops off in the same manner. This completes the d c described inchapter 27. Make two more d c in the same loop, skip 3 stitches, fasten with a sl st in next st 3 ch. 4 shells in next st. and continue for length desired.

Slippers in Star Stitch(Figure 247).

4 balls of mercerized crochet cotton.

Star stitch is made by a ch of the required length. Insert hook in 2nd ch from it, draw wool through, keeping both sts on hook, insert hook in 3rd ch and draw wool through keeping this st also on the hook, skip the next ch and take up the 4th and 5th in same manner, making 5 sts on hook; now drop the strands of wool from which these sts were made, and take up wool of contrasting colour, double end into a loop with short end about one inch in length, draw this through all the sts on hook, being careful not to let this short end slip through, ch 1 to hold sts in place. Now with this new strand work a star by drawing it through the eye of star, it being the tightest stitch near the ch on hook keeping both sts on hook as before.

Draw wool also through long st down the side of star, then through next 2 ch which gives 5 sts on hook, then dropping the strand from which this star was made pick up the wool of 1st star and loop it through these 5 sts and ch 1 to hold the star in place. This ch should be worked tight so it will draw the sts together and form the star, which should be almost square. In the second row place the contrasting colour over the star underneath, tying in the wool, ch 3 on which take up 2 sts; this gives you 3 sts on hook, the next 2 loops are drawn throughthe long and short stitches of star underneath, taking up back stitch of the long and both strands of the short or eye of star.

Fig. 247. A slipper in star stitch

For the slipper proper.

Ch 9, on which make 3 stars, 2 ch at end then work 3 stars down the other side of ch, taking up the other thread.

2nd row—4 stars, 2 ch, 4 stars.

3d row—without widening.

Widen 2 stars every other row until you have 10 rows 2 rows without widening, then widen in the next.

There will be 13 rows in all, and 20 stars in this last row, now divide front and work 20 stars on either halffor the sides; fit around sole by stretching and sew up the back on the wrong side. The wool or thread should be broken at the end of each row. (Crochet should not be worked backward and forward unless directions are given to that effect.)

For a frill around the slippers work groups of 6 ch st two more rows of the same. I always sew my slippers onto the soles after being finished, by overcasting with wool of the same shade on the right side, which saves stretching the slippers all out of shape when turning them.

Jacket in Shell Stitch(Figure 248).

Material: 5 skeins of white Germantown and 1 skein of colour for edge. No. 7 bone needle.

Ch 127, with 3 extra sts for turning.

1st row—Skip 2 ch and make 4 d c in the next. * Skip 3 ch, 1 s c in next, ch 3, 4 d c in same st with s c and repeat from * ending with a final s c.

2nd row—Turn 1 s c in s c below * 2 d c in same st, 1 s c in next s c below and repeat from * ending with a s c in top of turning ch.

3rd row—Turn ch 3, 4 d c in s c below * 1 s c in next s c, ch 3, 4 d c in same st repeat from * to end of row.

Repeat 2nd and 3rd rows 9 times, then repeat the 2nd row once more. This gives a depth of worksufficient for the back part of sleeves. At the end of the last row fasten off.

Fig. 248. Half of a jacket in shell stitch

The lower part of the back is now to be made. Count 8 shells (sh) along from the end of the last row and begin to crochet there, working as with 3rd row until within 8 sh of each other end of last long row.

Crochet in pattern upon this row until 11 rows in all have been worked. Upon the 12th row increase 1 sh in the 2 s c from each end by making 2 sh in those st instead of one.

Work without increasing for 13 rows more, then fasten off.

Go back to the foundation and upon the other side of it, beginning where the first row ended, crochet 13 sh as in 1st row. This is the commencement of the left shoulder and front.

Upon this row work 3 rows more in the usual way. At the end of the last row drop the loop temporarily from the needle, tie in an extra ball of wool at the top of the very beginning of the last row, ch 12 and fasten off. With this ch the extra width for the centre of the front is secured.

5th row—Again take the dropped loop upon the needle and crochet as usual making 3 sh upon the extra ch. The row is now 16 sh wide. Work in pattern for 17 rows more, the last row ending at the wrist. Fasten off.

On the 1st short row of lower front count 8 sh along from end of last row, begin there, work as usual to the other end, then crochet back and forth until the front is as long as the back, increasing 1 sh on the 13th row in the 2 s c from the underarm seam. The second front is made exactly like the first. The 3rd pattern row now is worked up the fronts around the neck, across the lower edge of jacket and sleeves, then finished with a scallopededge worked as follows: Make 1 s c in space preceding st where s c was made on row below, ch 5, 1 s c on top of 1st d c below, ch 4, 1 s c in same space, ch 5 and repeat from beginning around all the edges, fasten off.

Shape the jacket by crocheting the sleeves and underarm seams together.

Crochet should be carefully washed and should not be put in the general laundry. Make suds of warm water and a little borax. Put the article, if of cotton or linen thread in and let it soak for a little while, then squeeze the water out of the article between the hands. Rinse in several waters in this manner always using warm water.

Put the piece in a white bag and hang on the line.

This way keeps the piece from stretching out of shape. Keep it on the line till the article is perfectly dry.

Knitted articles should also be treated in like manner when washing for if a knitted piece was pinned on a line to dry the article would be stretched out of shape.

Irish Crochetlace is one of the most durable of laces and is suitable to be worn for all occasions. It especially recommends itself for pick-up or porch work. It looks well and does not take an endless while to make, as almost every motif is made separately thus giving a variety. And although one may not have more than a few minutes to devote each day to the work, it is surprising how many articles can be completed with little effort and little time.

The materials necessary are a steel crochet hook, considerably finer than for ordinary crochet work, as the work must be very firm, even and close. Irish Crochet Thread, numbers 36 to 50 or D. M. C. cotton numbers 70 to 100 inclusive and number 10 for the padding cotton will be needed. All laces look better if pressed before making up, this is especially true of Irish Crochet. And when slightly soiled it can be washed in soap suds, made from any good laundry soap; rinse thoroughly in severalwaters, starch slightly and iron on the wrong side on a heavy blanket. These simple directions help to make the lace look like new. In Irish Crochet the motifs are made separately mostly worked over a padding cotton.

Fig. 249. Doily with crochet edge

Then these motifs are basted on a pattern of cambric, or paper muslin which has been cut to the desired shape. A row of chainstitching is worked and basted to the edge of the pattern, then the filling in background is worked, joining the different motifs together with rows of chainstitching and picots or any other background stitch desired.

Doily with Irish Crochet Edge(Figure 249).

This can also be used for a bread plate.

1st row—around a 24 inch circle of linen work a row of single crochet.

2nd row—5 chain, miss 3 single crochet and fasten with a single crochet in the 4th stitch; continue around mat.

Fig. 250. The design for the belt

3rd row—Into each group of chains work 3 single crochet, 1 picot, 3 single crochet.

4th row—6 ch fasten in the picot loop.

5th row—3 single crochet, picot, 3 single crochet, 1 picot, 3 single crochet, 1 picot; continue all around. This completes the mat.

Belt of Irish Crochet(Figure 250).

This belt is very useful, especially as it is mountedupon a foundation, which is the ordinary cotton waist belting, one inch wide sold at all notion counters for a few cents. The crochet belt is basted upon this belting after being stretched and starched.

To make the belt:

1st row—Chain 26, turn.

2nd row—1 double crochet in 6th stitch of chain, chain 2, miss 2 stitches and work 1 double crochet in 9th stitch of chain, chain 2, miss 2, chain and work 1 double crochet in 12th stitch of chain, chain 5, skip 5, chain, 1 double crochet into 17th stitch of chain, chain 2, 1 double in 20th stitch of chain, chain 2, miss 2 chain, 1 double crochet into 23rd stitch of chain, chain 2, miss 2 and work 1 double crochet in 26th stitch.

3rd row—Chain 5, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet of preceding row, chain 2, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, 5 double crochet over chain of 5, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in top of double crochet, chain 2, 1 double crochet in 2nd stitch of chain of 5 at the end; turn and repeat from 2nd row for length required. For the edge, work on both sides of thebelt into every chain loop 3 single crochet, 1 picot 3 single crochet.

Rose Tie with lawn facing(Figure 251).

This bow has an under facing of lawn with a simple crochet edging of double crochet and chain stitch with picots, worked at even intervals. For the crochet tie:

Fig. 251. Rose tie with lawn facing

1st row—Work rose the same way as the one in the wheel tie. Now crochet around the rose in this manner * chain 3, 1 single crochet caught in the 1st double crochet of the rose petal, 5 chain, 1 double crochet in 5th stitch of petal, chain 5, 1 double in 8th stitch of petal, 5 chain; repeat from * five times more.

2nd row—5 chain, 1 single crochet in each previous group of 5 chain, continue around entire rose.

3rd row—6 chain 1 single crochet in each preceding loop of chain.

4th row—* 6 chain, 9 double crochet in first space, 6 chain, 1 single crochet for next 4 spaces, 6 chain, then 9 double crochet in 5th space; repeat from * twice more.

5th row—* 6 chain, 1 single crochet in 1st double crochet of group, 6 chain, 1 single crochet in 5th double, 6 chain, 1 single crochet in 9th double; repeat from * all around.

For the next two rows work 6 chain, 1 single crochet in each previous group of chain. Finish the edge with a row of chain and picot.

Work two sections like the one described and fasten together in the centre. Sew this upon the lawn facing and the tie is complete.

If the tie shows any tendency to cap in the course of construction add an extra chain in the group of chain stitches every now and then.

Wheel Tie with Rose and Straps with Shamrock(Figure 252.)

Wind padding cotton 6 times around the crochet needle. Over this ring work:

1st row—50 double crochet.

2nd row—Chain 5, miss 2 double crochet, * in the third stitch, work 1 double crochet, 2 chain, miss2 double crochet repeat from * 24 times. Work a spider in the centre of the ring, with a needle and thread.

Fig. 252. Wheel tie with rose and straps with shamrocks

Make 8 of these wheels for the tie. Join together with filling stitch (3 chain and a single crochet). After working 3 chains and a single crochet around the edge of the tie, work 1 single crochet in first space, 3 chain, 1 single crochet in second space, 3 chain * 1 double crochet, 7 chain in third space (catch back into second chain from needle to form a picot chain) repeat from * 4 times more, chain 3, 1 single crochet in next space, chain 3, 1 single crochet in second space. Continue in this manner all around tie.

For rose in centre of tie.

1st row—Chain 6, join in a ring.

2nd row—Chain 6 * 1 double crochet into ring, 4 ch 1 double crochet, 4 chain repeat from * twice more and join.

3rd row—Over first 4 chain work * 1 single crochet, 5 double crochet, 1 single crochet; repeat from * 5 times.

4th row—Work a row of 7 chain loops fastening at back of first row of single crochet (this is what helps to form the rose petals and makes them stand one above the other).

5th row—Over these loops work * 1 single crochet, 7 double crochet, 1 single crochet, repeat from * all around.

6th row—A row of 9 chain loops.

7th row—Into these loops work 1 single crochet, 9 double crochet, 1 single crochet; this completes the rose.

Let me mention here that roses can be substituted for the shamrocks worn on the ends of the straps.

For straps.

Work 27 single crochet over a padding cord, join in a ring. Work 9 single crochet over padding cord, 1 chain, 9 single crochet, 1 single crochet, over padding cord into the chain stitch. Continue working 9 single crochet, 1 chain, 9 single crochet over padding cotton and fastening each time in thechain stitch with a single crochet. One strap is 6 inches long and the other is 7 inches long.

For the edge of straps work 2 chain, 1 double crochet, in first single crochet of previous row, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in 3rd stitch, 7 chain count back 5 chains and slip stitch (to form a picot) 1 double crochet in 5th stitch, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in 7th stitch, 2 chain, 1 double crochet in 9th stitch. Continue on both sides of straps.

For the shamrocks.

Wind padding cotton over the end of crochet hook 6 times. Over this ring work 30 single crochet. * Over 3 strands of padding cotton work 11 single crochet. Twist padding cotton in a downward loop and work 1 single crochet over crossing of padding cotton, continue 15 single crochet over the loop, draw padding cotton to pull loop up close and then work 11 single crochet over padding cotton alone. Miss 2 single crochet on ring and work 2 single crochet over padding cotton into next 2 stitches of ring.

Turn, leave padding cotton, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into top of crossing loop, 12 chain, 1 single crochet into ring just before beginning of arch. Turn, over 12 chain work 4 single crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 treble crochet. Work 1 treble crochetinto single crochet over crossing of loop. Continue over next 12 chain, 14 treble, 1 double and 4 single crochet. Work 4 single crochet over padding cotton into next 4 single crochet on ring, repeat from * twice more leaving out the 4 single crochet over padding cotton into the ring the last time. Turn, work a row of single crochet over padding cotton. Between petals take the needle out, insert in stitch half way between the petals, and pull loop through, this will give a better shape to the petals. Then continue with single crochet.

For stem work 3 single crochet over padding cotton into ring. Then 40 single crochet over padding cotton alone, turn and work 40 single crochet over padding cotton into the previous row of single crochet to the ring. To shape the stem to the right pull the padding cotton before working the second row of single crochet.

Long Jabot(Figure 253).

Over a padding cotton work 50 single crochet, turn, and work down other side, 41 single crochet over padding cotton into previous row of single crochet (leaving one-half of stem still to be worked).

1st arm—Now twist the padding cotton under the stem, fasten with a slip stitch, over the loose padding cotton work 18 double crochet, turn andwork over padding cotton into each double crochet, 18 trebles, fasten with a single crochet in the 5th single crochet of centre stem.

2nd arm—Turn work over padding cotton, 10 double crochet into double crochet of previous row. Now work 8 double crochet over padding cotton alone, turn and work 18 treble crochet over padding cotton into the double crochet of previous row. Fasten in 10th stitch, this completes the second arm.

Fig. 253. Long jabot

Now work 8 arms more in the same way, then finish the stem with 9 single crochet over padding cotton into the other single crochet of stem.

For the centre work over 2 strand padding cotton 6 double crochet and fasten into the single crochet which connects the arms to the stem, continue all around centre and fasten off.

Work 36 chain, into these work 36 double crochet with 6 double on each end. Continue working until there are 4 rows of doubles. Connect the leaf to this with slip stitch, baste on paper and work 3 rows of the filling stitch all around.

1st row—For the edge, work 6 chain loops into every loop of previous row.

2nd row—Over 6 chain loops work 7 single crochet.

3rd row—6 chain loops caught into every 4th single crochet.

4th row—Into 6 chain loops work 4 single crochet, picot, 4 single crochet, then into 2nd or next loop work 4 single crochet, picot, 4 single crochet, into 3 loop work 4 single crochet. 5 chain turn and fasten in the 4th double crochet over 2nd loop, turn and over chain work 4 double crochet, picot, 4 double crochet, then into the 3rd loop finish with the other 4 single crochet; repeat from * all around jabot.

Baby Irish Lace, with Rose Leaf and Grapes(Figure 254).

For roses.

Chain 12. Into chain work * 1 double crochet, 3 chain repeat from * for 6 times more. Into each group of 3 chain work 1 single crochet, 6 double crochet, 1 single crochet making seven petals to a rose.

For the leaves.

Chain 8, join in a ring. Over this ring work 32 single crochet without breaking the thread, chain 8 and form another to the right and a little above the other ring, work 32 single crochet into this one also, again chain 8 and form a ring to the left of the first ring, fill this ring with 32 single crochet.

For grapes.

Fig. 254. Baby Irish-lace edging

Chain 3, join. Fill chain with single crochet, continue working around, widening as needed for 3 rows. Decrease by missing a stitch occasionally to shape grapes. Just before finishing stuff with cotton, make 3 grapes for each cluster and fasten into centre of leaf. Baste all motifs on muslin and fill with background stitch. For edge of scallop work groups of 6 chain caught down with a single crochet then * 4 single crochet into first space, 2 single crochet into next space, 6 chain, turn, fasteninto single crochet, turn, 3 single crochet over chain, picot, 5 single crochet, 2 single crochet into same space, 4 single crochet into next space, 6 chain, turn, and catch down beside first loop, turn, 4 single crochet over chain, 6 chain turn, catch down in centre of first loop, turn, 4 single crochet, picot, 4 single crochet, into chain, 1 single crochet into next loop, picot, 3 single crochet, 4 single crochet into next space and repeat from * all around edge of lace.

Dutch Collar(Figure 255).

Begin the rose with a small thick ring made by winding the padding cotton ten times around the end of the crochet needle. Cover this ring with single crochet, cutting off the end of the padding cotton when the ring is three quarters covered. *Chain 6, catch down into the ring; repeat from * 5 more times, dividing the spaces as evenly as possible so the last chain is caught down beside the first one.

Over the chain loop work * 1 single crochet 7 double crochet, 1 single crochet, repeat from * all around.

*Chain 7, catch down at back in the same stitch as that in which the chain loops of the preceding row was caught, repeat from * all around.

Over chain loop * 1 single crochet, 9 doublecrochet, 1 double crochet. Repeat from * all around.

*Chain 8 catch down in back same place as before. Repeat from * all around.

*Over chain loops work repeat from * 1 single crochet, 11 doubles, 1 single crochet, this finishes the rose centre.

*Now begin the first row around the rose * 7 chain 3 picot, (catch back into third stitch) chain 7, picot, 3 chains, catch down in first petal in outer row, repeat from * 12 times more, spacing these picot loops evenly all around, catching the last one into the centre of the first.

*Next work one picot loop catching in into centre of loop of row below, then a loop of 6 chains, repeat from * caught into centre of next picot loop.

Turn and over this loop work 9 single crochet, turn, work 9 double crochet over the single crochet 3 chain, catch down into same stitch as the 6 chain loop was caught. Work 2 rows of picot loops, then repeat from * all around finishing the row in the corner of the first 9 double crochet ornament.

9th row—Work a row of plain picot loops.

10th row—Work a row of plain picot loops.

11th row—Another row of plain picot loops.

Five roses are required for the collar.

For the wheels.

Fig. 255. An Irish-lace Dutch collar

Over a padding cotton ring, work single crochet. Over a single strand of the padding cotton crochet into every single crochet, a single crochet, work 4rows the same way only add a picot in every 4th single crochet in the last row. Now begin the first row around the wheel * chain 7, catch into the last single crochet of the wheel, chain 7, picot, chain 7, chain 3, skip 2 stitches of the wheel and catch down into the 3rd with a single crochet, repeat from * all around.

Next work 1 picot loop, catching it into the centre of loop in row below, then a * loop of 6 chain caught into centre of next picot loop. Turn, and over this loop work 9 single crochet, turn and work 9 double crochet over the single crochet, 3 chain stitch down into same stitch as the 6 chain loop was caught. Work 2 more picot loops, then repeat from * all around finishing the row in the centre of the first ornament.

Work a row of plain picot loop. Another row of plain picot loops. Make four wheels for the collar.

Sew the roses and wheels firmly on the cambric pattern (the size and style having been cut out of the cambric).

Placing them so as to leave room for a single row of picot loops to be worked between to join them, crochet a chain of chain stitches and baste them upon the edge of the cambric pattern. Fill thework out to the desired shape with the picot loops, which should contain the same number of chain stitches as the loops in the roses and wheels, 3 chain, 1 double crochet, 3 chain, work a row all around collar, then begin the border or edge. Work around the inner edge and fronts of collar 4 single crochet into each loop, then around the lower edge * 4 single crochet in the first space, 4 single crochet in the second space, 2 single crochet in the third space; chain 6 down at the beginning of second space. Over the loops thus formed make 3 single crochet, picot, 7 single crochet, 2 single crochet into same (third) space, 4 single crochet into next space. Turn, 6 chain catch down into next to the last loop, turn, 5 single crochet over the loop, chain 6, turn, and catch down into centre of first loop. Turn, 5 single crochet, picot, 5 single crochet over this last loop, 2 single crochet into the next loop, picot, 3 single crochet, repeat from * all around edge. Take the collar up from the cambric and press upon the wrong side over a blanket or heavy flannel.

Thereare certain terms used in knitting that are peculiar to the work. Until these terms are studied and practised, the instructions are as bad as trying to read a foreign language that you know nothing about.

Knitting is usually done on two needles though there are times when more needles are used, for instance, in knitting stockings.

Thread, silk or worsted can be used for the work. The latter is best for practising the first stitches or pieces.

Fig. 256. Casting-on

The first term we learn in knitting is "to cast on stitches" (Figure 256). Select a pair of medium-sized wooden needles. Your worsted should be wound into a ball. "Casting on" is the foundation for the work. Take a knitting needle in each hand between the thumb and first finger. Make a loop of the worsted over the left-hand needle near the end. Put your right-hand needle through this loopunder the left needle. Holding the needles in this position, throw the worsted around the point of the right-hand needle and draw the right-hand needle through the first loop. There is now a loop on each needle. Slip the last loop made over the left needle. * Both needles are in the one loop, the left on top of the right. Again throw the worsted over the point of the right-hand needle and draw the needle through with the loop on it. Slip this loop over the left-hand needle and repeat from *, till the number of stitches desired are cast on.

The * indicates from which point the directions are to be repeated.

The German method of knitting is to hold the work in the left hand and the worsted over the first finger, under the second and third and then over the little finger.

Fig. 257. Knitting (K)

To knit, the right-hand needle is in the first loop from the point of the other needle. * Throw the worsted over point of the right-hand needle anddraw it through the loop. Slip the first stitch off the left needle and insert the right needle into the next stitch and repeat from *, till all the stitches have been transferred to the right-hand needle (Figure 257).

Remember to hold the work in the left hand when starting to knit each needle or row.

Fig. 258. Purling (P)

To purl (Figure 258). The work is held in the left hand. The worsted is brought in front of the work. The right-hand needle is inserted through the stitch from right to left in front of the left needle. Pass the point of the right needle over the worsted and draw the loop through. Slipoff the stitch on the left needle as in knitting. Repeat in this manner until all the stitches are transferred.

Sometimes it is necessary to get rid of some of the stitches. In that case the needle is slipped through two stitches instead of one and the new stitch formed in the usual way. There are two abbreviations for purling two together. They are p. 2 tog. or p-n. The latter means purl narrow.

When knitting, two stitches can also be taken together. The abbreviation for this is n. K. 3 tog. means knit three stitches (sts) together as one stitch.

To slip-stitch means to take a stitch from the left-hand to the right-hand needle without knitting it, and its abbreviation is sl.

To bind or cast off means to slip the stitches from the needle so that you have a chain edge. Slip the first stitch and knit the second. You now have two loops on the right-hand needle. * Put the point of the left needle (from left to right) through the first stitch on the other needle. Hold the worsted tight. Slip the right-hand needle through the loop formed as described above and then slip the loop from the left needle. There is only one loop on the right-hand needle. Knit the next stitch and repeat from *.

Casting off must be done loosely or the work will have a puckered appearance.

Fig. 259. A little girl's first piece of knitting

It may be that you desire to widen the row of stitches. Both widening and decreasing is done at the end of needle or row. Knit as usual till there remains but one loop on the left-hand needle. Insert the left-hand needle through the loop at the base of the last stitch. Bring worsted around the pointand make a stitch as usual. The last stitch is knitted in the usual way.

After you have practised the stitches with wool, it is well to buy a ball of coarse knitting cotton and a pair of steel needles. The cotton makes excellent wash cloths. Cast on 50 stitches then knit or purl the same amount of rows as stitches. To make a fancy cloth knit three rows then purl three rows until you have the fifty rows.

The long straight shawls are the most popular at present.

A little one for yourself that would be quite pretty is made in pop corn stitch (Figure 260). It requires five skeins of worsted and a pair of wooden needles.

Photograph by Mary G. HuntsmanHer First Knitted Shawl

Photograph by Mary G. Huntsman

Her First Knitted Shawl

Cast on 59 stitches on your needle.

1st row—K 1st, then knit two stitches together (2 K tog) the rest of the way. You now have 30 stitches on your needle (Figure 260).

2nd row—K first stitch, then knit the loop which is formed between the double stitches of the first row. Continue in this manner till you have again on the needle the same number you cast on—59.

3rd row—K plain all the way across.

4th row—P plain all the way across.

5th row—K 2 together all the way across to the last stitch, then k that by itself.

6th row—Same as second row.

7th row—K plain.

8th row—P plain.

Continue in this manner till you make a scarf about one yard long.

Fig. 260. The popcorn stitch

The popcorn pattern affords good practice for the different stitches explained before.

If a longer shawl is desired continue in the same manner. To make it broader it will be necessary to cast on more stitches at the beginning.

A shawl may be finished in many ways. Sometimes a little crochet edge is worked around it, ora chain stitch fringe can be made. The plain fringe is the one most used however. This is made by cutting the wool about ten inches long. Take four lengths and slip them through and knot them into the border edge at each end of the shawl. This makes a fringe about five inches deep.

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