Chapter 22

Conventional,71,97.

Cope of St. Andrew,144;Syon,206,326;of Boniface VIII.,320;at Rheims,321-2;Daroca,320,376;at Stoneyhurst,348,379;of Innocent III.,369;at Durham,390.

Copper,184.

Coral,88,124,332.

Coronation robes,295,318,362;of St. Stephen of Hungary,322;of Charles X.,339;of Edward the Confessor,366;of James II.,393.

Corselet of Amasis in temple at Lindos, in Rhodes,20,308.

Cotton,137;cotton trees,138;woven,139;cotton plush,139.

Counterpane worked by Queen Catherine,384.

Coverlets,393.

Crewels,133,229,345,398;work in,390,392.

Crimson,184.

Cross,103;of St. Andrew,144;Greek,165;emblem of,308;prehistoric,335-6.

Croyland Abbey embroideries,366.

Crusaders,307,371.

Curtains,261,270,272,281,288;ordered by Sergius,312;by Pope John,312;by Stephen IV.,312.

Cushion at Hatfield, of James I.’s reign,390.

Cuthbert, St.,144;silk garments in tomb of,163,165,364-5.

Cyprus bowls,109.

Dado,271.

Dais, the chamber of,282.

Dalmatic of Charlemagne,53,317-18;at Valencia,381.

Damascus,127.

Decoration,5,50,70,290,355;art of,273.

Decorative,81,273.

Design,54-81;floral,71,345,348;English,377;by St. Dunstan,365.

Detail,71.

Dress,70,294,301,373;Greek,297-8;Roman,299;early Christian,300;of Claudius,360;of Duke and Duchess of Buckingham,393.

Durham Cathedral,348.

Dyes,183,185,358;Indian,187.

East India Company, monopoly of trade by,388.

Ecclesiastical embroidery,303,327,330,353;for images,305;priests’ robes,306;materials used in,311;names of garments in,313,316;at Durham,316;English,332.

Edward II.,250.

Edward III.,377.

Eighteenth century decorations,112;embroidery,393,395.

Eleanor, Queen, crosses of,372.

Emare, mantle of,372.

Embroiderers’ Guild,388;list of names,373;Company in Elizabeth’s reign,387,394.

Embroideries, Babylonian and Ninevite,22,44,105,127,132,271,299,311,350;Greek,31-2,93,103,142;German,43,149;Italian,43,116,147;Spanish,45,150,331,383;Portuguese,45;Scandinavian and Celtic,68,91,104,116,131,136,306;Egyptian,93,114,130,134,209,236,271;Assyrian,93,127,262,357;Roman,129,143,153,313;Chinese,97,113,127,151,208;Persian,99,266,299;Japanese,109,214;Russian,201,206,313;Delphic,272;English,319,321,325,356-396;spurious, in Henry VI.’s reign,377.

Embroidery, art of,16,136,173,195,289,378;white,200;in churches,313,341.

Emma, Queen, embroideries by,366.

Enamel,146.

Etruscan borders,47;tombs,357.

Fashion,301.

Fayoum,39;ancient Egyptian textile fabrics from,139,300.

Fictile vases,31,32,93,103.

Field of Cloth of Gold,381-2.

Filatorium,222.

Fitness,81.

Flat, drawing on,69-70;stitches,345.

Flavius Vopiscus,158.

Flax,133,135.

Flemish work,329.

Floral patterns,71.

Floss silk,374.

Flowers,291.

Footstools,285.

Frames,292,299,371,389.

Frescoes,373.

Fringes,271,351.

Fulham, tapestry works at,257.

Furniture,280-293.

Gammadion,104.

Gaudry, Bishop, tapestry of,242.

Geoffrey, Abbot,249.

Gisela, Queen,323.

Giustini Palace, Florence,277.

Gobelins,131,237,247-8,275,277.

Gold,140,143;threads,346;Gothic design in,75,377;embroideries,202;needlework for Elinor of Aquitaine,369;Spanish lace,381;caskets,389.

Gradation,67.

Green,187.

Gregory Nazianzen,160.

Grey,187.

Grotesque,43.

Guimp,163,223.

Hair,133.

Hampton Court,288,384;bed at, worked by Mrs. Pawsey,395.

Hand-looms,374.

Hangings,243,260-274;of the Hebrew Sanctuary,262;of Alexander’s tent,263;portraits on,265;in Kosroes’ “white palace,”268;on Greek vases,269;in Pompeii,269;saffron, mentioned by Euripides,272;French, sixteenth century,274;modern French,275;in Holland House,276;in Florence,277;in Rome,277;English, from time of Harold to Edward IV., and others,370,384,392-3.

Harmonies,66.

Hawaiian royal mantle,209.

Helen,33.

Helena, Empress,316,360.

Hemp,121.

Henry II., mantle of,203,323.

Henry VIII., manufacture of tapestry in reign of,252;embroidery,302,369,384-5.

Hephæstion, catafalque of,267.

Hexameron work of St. Ambrose and St. Basil,333.

Holland House,276.

Homer,11,19,33,130.

Hom, the sacred,99,334.

Icelandic Sagas,273,362.

Illumination,273,305,310,363.

Imperial, a silk tissue,161.

India, arts of,7,27,75,83,311;Museum,89,285.

Indian carving,75;shawls,133;cotton fabrics,138;dyes,187;embroideries,284,299;manufactures,389,391,394.

Inscriptions,105,146,341;woven in,168;in tapestry,242,375.

Isabella of France,331;of Spain,384.

Jacket in Lady Waterford’s collection,386.

James I., manufacture of tapestry in reign of,254;portrait of,255;work in reign of,387,388.

Josephus,9.

Juno, toilet of,297.

Jute,121.

Kells, Book of,30.

Khotan, Prince of,156.

Kosroes’ hangings,261,268.

Kunigunda, Empress,203,323.

Lace,222-235;bone,225;yak,225;needle-made,227;ancient lace-books,228;stitches,229;Venetian,229;Burano,230;list of,231;blond,232;schools in France,233;for ecclesiastical purposes,233;bobbin,234;Limerick,234;Irish,234;Honiton,234;Spanish,383.

Lambeth tapestry works,257;missal at,30.

Lares,291.

Leather,123.

Lilac,187.

Linen,357-8.

Lombardic,310,323.

Lotus,89,102,105.

Louis XIV.,46,247,276,332,393.

Louis XV.,47,110,247,276,332.

Louis XVI.,332.

Lyons,151,167,345.

Maniple of St. Cuthbert,144;in Durham library,364.

Mantle of Demeter,93;of Ajax,103;of Servius Tullius,129;of Alkisthenes,299;of Gisela,323;of King Wiglaf,363-4.

Manu, Code of,314.

Manufactures of Nineveh and Babylon,127;at Lyons,151;of silk,160;at Palermo,161.

Marcus Aurelius,158.

Mark’s, St., Venice,346.

Mary, Queen of Scots,387.

Mary’s, St., Hall, Coventry,250,379.

Melito, Bishop of Sardis, book on Symbolism by,333.

Middle Ages,12,23,42,73,125,137,145,168,183,202,239,242,249,273,307,315.

Mitre at Milan,211;of St. Thomas à Becket,321,369.

Monks of St. Florent, Saumur,242;of Cluny,242;of Fleury,242;in England,249;of St. Alban’s,251.

Monuments,373.

Morris, William,290.

Mosaics,40,300,314;Empress Theodora’s dress figured in,41,93;of Sta. Pudenziana,306,317;early Christian,314;in Sta. Maria Maggiore,117,322.

Mummy-wrappings,21.

Museum, Cluny,247,275,277;at Boulac,56.

Muslin,139.

Mycenæ, tomb of Agamemnon at,19;lion’s gate of,304.

Needle, the first,14,357;bronze, steel,195,213;bone,358.

Nimroud,24.

Nineteenth century, style of,49,339.

Normans,366.

Northumberland House, tapestries at,257.

Nunneries,10.

Opus Alexandrinum,117.

Opus Anglicanum,325,376.

Orange,187.

Order,59.

Oriental work,392.

Orphrey,368-9.

Oudenarde “hallings” or “salles,”252.

Painting,4.

Palermo, silk-weaving at,165,307.

Pall of Alexander,142;at Dunstable,251,378;of London Companies,329,379.

Pamphile silk-weaver,152.

Panels,69,79.

Patchwork,117;appliqué,214,325,392.

Patterns,82-117;wave,62,114;key,63,97;Oriental,84,99;lotus,89,102;animal,93;lily,95;rose,95;palm leaf on shawl,96;sacred hom,99;pine-apple,100;honeysuckle,101;egg and tongue,102;cross,103;crenelated,104;Renaissance,108;cloud,109,338;fundata or netted,109;wheel,110;Moorish,110;Sicilian,111;shell,112;Indian balcony,112;chrysoclavus or palmated,113;wicker and lattice-work,113;bead,114;daisy,114;geometrical,115;German and Venetian books of,206;feather,208;Persian,241;check,270;metal-work,325;Roës, or wheel and plate,336-7;Indian dimity,394.

Peacocks,163,211;feathers,376.

Pearls,332,362,383,389.

Pectineum,235.

Penates,291.

Penelope, bridal couch of,281.

Peplos of Athene,32.

Père Labbé,242.

Persian carpets,23,73,98,132,241,266,271;rugs,94;silks,153.

Perspective,70.

Peter’s, St., Rome,346.


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