Fronting on Royal street and Exchange Place, was erected by a joint stock company in 1835-6, from the designs and under the superintendence of Mr. Dakin, architect. Both fronts are of marble, in a plain and bold style. The cost of the erection was $100,000.
Entrance from Royal street and Exchange Place. This reading room occupied a spacious apartment in the second story of the Merchants' Exchange, and is under the patronage and controlof the company interested in that building. It is generally supplied with most of the newspapers of the country, and has received a patronage quite equal to the extent of its accommodations.
Occupy the second story of a spacious building on the corner of Common and St. Charles streets, opposite the Exchange and Verandah hotels. This is an enterprise started upon the plan of Galignani's, in Paris, and Lloyd's, in London—professing to supply the earliest commercial and general information. The fixtures are arranged with a degree of neatness and convenience that is extremely gratifying to the stranger, who has a spare hour to devote to reading. Here he can peruse the latest papers, not only from almost every section of the United States, but English, French, German, Mexican, Irish, Scotch, and Colonial, together with all the periodicals, to his heart's content. The merchant can see the prices current from nearly every part of the world; arrivals and departures of vessels and of travellers—sales of the great staples and merchandise and their prices, and many such matters of interest to the business man.
In each parish, have heretofore been placed under the management of a board of five administrators, who reported annually to the secretary of state the condition of those under their direction. This system has been adhered to, till very recently, in the first and third municipalities. In the second a change took place in 1841, which has proved to be so complete a revolution, is attended with such important results to this large portion of the city, and so extended its influence even to the neighboring parishes, that it is referred to with a degree of pleasure which can only be surpassed by our pride in its success.
In accordance with an act of the legislature, approved the 14th of February, 1841, authorizing the municipalities of New Orleans to establish public schools, the authorities of the second municipality set themselves at work with a will. They selected twelve of their fellow-citizens as a board of directors for public schools, together with a standing committee on public education, to whom were granted almost unlimited powers.
Zealous of acquitting themselves with honor, they at once looked to the fountain head, to New England, where the best schools in the country existed, and secured the aid of Mr. J. A. Shaw, who was perfectly conversant with all the improvements,and placed this efficient gentleman at the head of the department as superintendent. From a despairing beginning, in less than one year, the prospect seemed to be most cheering. Commencing with only thirteen children of each sex, it increased, in two years, to ten hundred and sixty-one in actual attendance—and nearly double that number enrolled.
Thus far these schools occupied rooms under the Methodist church in Poydras street, and a new building, called the Washington school, on Magazine, at the corner of Basin street; but since that, the undertaking has been continually extending, until it was found necessary to erect another structure, the Franklin school, on St. Charles street—all of which are now scarcely sufficient to answer the increasing demand for admission.
That, which at first was tested as an experiment, has proved to be a successful enterprise, producing an example which promises to have a beneficial influence over the southern method of education. It found strong opposition and prejudice to contend against, but these have subsided—and the children of the rich and the poor are seated side by side, sharing advantages and striving intellectually—the only distinction recognized among them—"teaching one, as well as informing the other, that adventitious wealth confers no superiority over the fortunate competitor, when engaged in a contest of the mind."
The third municipality school is under the charge of Mr. Geo. W. Harby. All the branches of a good education are taught here in the English, French and Spanish languages. Although this school is under excellent discipline, and has all the advantages of a classical and gentlemanly teacher, it still has labored under the old régime, and could have educated double the number that have attended it. That nothing stands still is as applicable to the intellectual as to the physical world. Already the spirit of improvement, that has done so much for the second municipality, is busy in the first and third—and though slowly, it is as sure, eventually, to push its way into them as water is to find its own level. Beside the public schools, there are many private seminaries of a high order, and conducted by teachers of ability, where the wealthy, who have objections to those above designated, may send their children for instruction.
The education of youth is of the utmost importance to a country—especially to one like this, that should be governed by the intelligence of its citizens. The portals to learning should be thrown wide open, equally to all—for upon knowledge is based the beautiful temple of liberty. Tear away this foundation and the fair edifice must fall. Cherish and support it, and freedomwill become as permanent as our rocks, as ever-lasting as our hills.
The intention of this undertaking, is to establish a library for the benefit of the juvenile class of the second municipality, by the voluntary subscriptions and contributions of the scholars attached to the public schools, and by private donations. To advance this important object, the common council passed an ordinance organizing the establishment, regulating and directing its proceedings, and tendering liberal advantages to encourage success in its operations. When $5000 are subscribed they are pledged to furnish rooms to accommodate the library—and, as soon as it amounts to $15,000, to purchase ground and erect suitable buildings. It also provides that, at a certain period, a chemical and philosophical apparatus shall be purchased, and lectures delivered once a week, during eight months of the year, by the most competent men in the country, on astronomy, geology, chemistry, natural and moral philosophy, navigation, book-keeping, engineering, civil architecture and design, and such other useful branches as may be determined by the directors—who are the same as those of the public schools, with the mayor, recorder and aldermen asex-officiomembers. The scholar paying twenty-fivecents a month, or three dollars a year, for three years, is constituted a life member, and for ever after may have access to this excellent institution. Such has been the success of this undertaking that a building will soon be provided, and very little time will transpire before it will realize all the advantages that its beginning promised. To Samuel J. Peters, Esq., particularly, is this city indebted for introducing and maturing this measure—and for generous presents, to many other citizens and strangers, who have not permitted their names to come before the world.
The growing popularity of the "People's Lyceum," and of the "Young Men's Literary Association," is noticed with no ordinary feelings of gratification. These, commenced and continued by the young, fostered and cherished by all—have become a cheering sight to the eye of the christian, the patriot, and the philanthropist. Established upon judicious principles, tending to give a wholesome direction and salutary stimulus to the mind of their members, the moral influence may be deemed of incalculable consequence to this growing metropolis. History and science are the leading objects of their inquiry, facilitated and encouraged by the delivery of lectures, affording not only instruction but recreation—creating a taste for the rapid acquirement of knowledge—givinga new impulse to the intellectual powers, and to the advancement of literature—all nobly contributing to the refinement and happiness of mankind. These, and others in the course of being established under the auspices of our most eloquent and learned literati, the city may class among the brightest of her jewels.
This building is erected on a fine lot of ground, on the corner of Common and Philippa streets, granted to the college by a recent act of the legislature. It was designed by, and completed under the direction of Mr. Dakin, architect, whose reputation is a guaranty for its taste and elegance. The location is retired, and yet near all the public buildings and thoroughfares. The faculty of this institution are gentlemen of superior qualifications, enthusiastic in their zeal to give it the first place among the kindred establishments ofthe country. The advantages of New Orleans, for acquiring a practical knowledge of medicine and surgery, are superior to any city in the United States, especially for the study of all diseases peculiar to a southern climate. The facilities for prosecuting the study of anatomy and surgery are unrivalled. The school is well furnished with models, plates, casts, and every thing necessary for illustrations. The requisitions for graduation are those adopted by the best colleges. With these advantages presented to southern students, they will see the benefits resulting from an institution built up among them, conducted by gentlemen acquainted by experience with the wants of the country.
This establishment occupies rooms, expressly built for its accommodation, at 13 St. Charles street, and was opened in 1844, under the personal inspection of the proprietor, Mr. G. Cooke, who is himself an artist of taste, and well known among the profession. The principal object was, to form a rallying point for the exhibition of the works of celebrated artists, both of foreign and American origin, and to dispose of such as might please the fancy of the public, at a certain fixed price. Here, visitors will have an opportunity of selecting copies and originals from a quarter that may berelied upon, works both of the old masters, and of the best of the modern schools.
The proprietor is under obligations to a number of the gentlemen of this city, connoisseurs of painting, for the exhibition of some of the most prominent pieces. From R. D. Shepherd, Esq., he has a picture by Rothmel, representing De Soto discovering the Mississippi. If this artist should leave no other work, his reputation, as a genius of no ordinary ability, will remain as durable as the canvas on which he has portrayed the Spaniard and the "Father of Waters."
From James Robb, Esq., whose magnificent collection of modern paintings is better known in other cities than our own, the gallery has received its richest treasures, and most valuable contributions. The chef d'œuvre is from the pencil of a native artist now at Rome, Leutze; and illustrates this sentence in our Lord's prayer—"deliver us from evil." To speak of this gem in terms equal to its merits, would place it immeasurably above the estimation of the age in which we live. Aware that it may be considered presumption to compare living genius with the justly venerated names of the immortal dead, whose works, on account of their antiquity and intrinsic worth, are doubly valued—yet, at the risk of losing our little reputation in such matters, we venture the assertion that this picture of Leutze's will compare withthe most beautiful of the Italian school, and is excelled by none in America, not excepting those of our lamented and talented Alston. This picture alone would make any gallery in Europe attractive, and the public are greatly indebted to Mr. Robb for the opportunity he has afforded them of seeing not only this, but many other brilliant productions.
Here, also, is a landscape of no ordinary excellence, by Boddington, an English artist, who has most successfully represented one of his native scenes, in a style of handling peculiarly true and free. Here may be seen four of Doughty's best landscapes, and several fine specimens from the pencils of Cole and Chapman. The portrait of Col. David Crocket, as large as life, in his forest costume, by Chapman, and two large altar pieces, copied from celebrated works in the Vatican—The Entombing of Christ, after Corregio—and The Crucifixion of St. Peter, after Guido—comprise a portion of the more recent additions to the gallery.
Among the most attractive performances, are The Wreck of the Medusa, The Roman Forum, and a Sketch of Rome—from the pencil of the proprietor. The first of these is very much admired—but, to the classical visitor, the last two are far more fascinating; calling up, as they do, with all their endearing associations, our happy school-day remembrances.
Much more might be said respecting this establishment, but the brevity of these pages will not permit an indulgence of our wishes in a more minute detail.
It is probably the general impression of strangers, suggested by the limited number and extent of the public galleries of paintings in this city, that there is, among us, an entire deficiency of a proper taste for the fine arts. And we may, ourselves, inadvertently have contributed to such an impression, by representing our citizens as exclusively absorbed in commercial pursuits. It must be received, however, with many abatements. We have our artists, and not a few of them, who are highly talented, and deservedly patronised.
There are choice collections of paintings in the possession of several private gentlemen, other than those already alluded to; among which are many valuable productions, not only of the modern but ancient masters, purchased at enormous prices.
Among others, those owned by our highly esteemed fellow-citizens, Glendy Burke, H. R. W. Hill, and Joseph M. Kennedy, Esqs., are well worth a visit of the connoisseur and admirer of fine specimens of the arts, to which the known courtesy of the proprietors will cheerfully afford ready access. The only original painting of the famousWilkie in this country, is in the splendid collection of Mr. Burke.
Several fine specimens of original statues are in the possession of James Dick, and John Hagan, Esqs., which are not excelled by any collection in this country.
"What is it but a map of busy life,Its fluctuations, and its vast concerns?"
The diurnal press of this country, is not only a mighty political engine, but one of the utmost importance in a commercial and literary point of view. Its increase, within a few years past, like its extending liberty, is without a parallel, and almost beyond belief. Junius, in his peculiar manner, observes, that "they who conceive that our newspapers are no restraint upon bad men, or impediment to the execution of bad measures, know nothing of this country." The force of this remark applies nowhere better than to the Press of the United States.
Every enlightened American, who loves the constitution of his country, and correctly estimates its lofty principles, will lend his aid to preservethese invaluable privileges from the violation of power on the one hand, and the equally injurious outrages of popular licentiousness on the other.
The press of this city comes in for a portion of the credit that is attached to that of the country—more particularly for its elaborate commercial details and general literature. To embody the spirit of the age; to relieve the grave by the gay; and to embellish the useful by the amusing, is its daily task. The choicest of home and foreign literature is found in the leading issues from the New Orleans press. It is equally interesting to the merchant and the general reader; and it preserves, above all its cotemporaries of other cities, a self-respect that does infinite credit to the gentlemen to whose hands the important trust is confided.
There are eight daily papers published in New Orleans—three of which may be rated as of the "mammoth" size; the other five are smaller, but of sufficient dimensions to furnish the ordinary news of the day. They are as follows:
The Louisiana Courier is the only evening paper of the city, and is published in French and English. This is the pioneer, before referred to in this work, under the name of "La Moniteur." The Bee, also in French and English, and the Commercial Bulletin, in English, make up the three mammoth sheets. The Picayune, the Tropic, the Jeffersonian Republican, the Native American,and the New Orleans Times, are all in English. The New Orleans Price Current is a very useful publication, issued twice a week.
In addition to these, the Catholics and Protestants each have their weekly Journals, and the Medical faculty their bi-monthly Periodicals, edited by the most prominent members of the profession, and devoted to Medicine, and Collateral Sciences. They are intended to bring forth the industry and talents of the profession in the South, and to furnish the most recent information of its progress generally.
The subject of Organic Chemistry is that to which, at the present day, the eyes of all thinking members of the profession are directed, and upon which their hope of progress mainly depends,—the relations of chemical action to the functions of organized matter, the application of chemistry to physiology and pathology, are to be treated of as fully as present knowledge extends.
Such contributions to the noble science, in which these gentlemen have long been successful laborers, cannot fail to be properly estimated throughout the scientific world.
At the commencement of the holidays, the city begins to put on a gay aspect. Visitors, from all parts of the habitable globe, have arrived, either on business or pleasure. A general round of balls, masquerades, soirées and parties begin, and are continued without intermission during the season. Theatres and operas, with theirstarsandprima donnas, circuses and menageries, bell-ringers and serenaders, are in full success—and New Orleans, filled with every description of amusement, from the top of the drama down to Judy and Punch. Strangers are surprised and delighted at the splendor that is carried out in these circles of pleasure. Our present object, however, is merely to describe the most conspicuous places of public resort.
The site of this building was occupied by an edifice erected for dramatic performances in 1813, somewhat on the plan of the one now existing. This, which was built by a joint stock company, was burnt to the ground in 1816. Mr. John Davis afterwards became the sole proprietor, and began the erection of the present theatre.
The building was opened by the first dramatic corps, ever in Louisiana directly from France, in November, 1819. The total cost of the edifice was about $180,000. The lower story is of the Roman Doric order, certainly not a pure specimen. The upper is what may be called the Corinthian composite. The interior and scenic arrangements of the house are excellent for seeing and hearing, having a pit, or parquette, quite elevated and commodious, with grated boxes at the side for persons in mourning; two tiers of boxes, and one of galleries above; the whole being of such a form as to afford the greatest accommodation to the spectators.
Nothing can exceed the decorum of the audience, except the brilliancy of the dress circle, which, on certain occasions, is completely filledwith the beautiful ladies of our city, in full evening costume. The performances are in the French language, and the stock company always respectable. The orchestra is excellent. Melodramas and operas are perfectly got up at this house. The strict adherence to nature and history, in costume and manners, will never fail to please the man of taste who visits the Orleans theatre.
Like the phœnix, literally arose from the ashes of its predecessor. The first house was erected by the sole exertions of James H. Caldwell, Esq., in 1835, at the cost of $250,000, exclusive of the ground. It occupied one hundred and twenty-nine feet front by one hundred and eighty-six deep, and was seventy-six high. It held four thousand people, and was the fourth in size in the world—one at St. Petersburg, in Russia, another at Pescala, in Milan, and the third at San Carlos, in Naples, were those only which excelled it in size. It was destroyed by fire in 1842. That structure was styled "the Temple of the Drama," and the city had good reason to be proud of such an ornament.
The present building has a front of seventy-nine feet on St. Charles street, extends back one hundred and forty-nine, and is fifty-three high.The main entrance and front wall are remains of the former establishment; which, from the substantial workmanship, resisted the conflagration so effectually as to be made available the second time. Passing this memento, the spectator finds himself in the vestibule, thirty-four by twenty-three feet, from which a double flight of geometrically formed stairs ascend to the first tier. Here the pit is seen in a semi-circular shape. The centre box is but fifty-one feet from the foot lights, which brings the audience within a convenient distance of the stage. The depth of the front boxes to the rear is twenty-one feet. The proscenium presents an elevation of thirty-nine feet in the clear, by fifty in width. The upper circles of boxes possess the like advantage of the first, in respect to a distinct view of the performances.
The fronts of the boxes consist of an open balustrade, producing a novel, and agreeable effect. The dome is ornamented with sunken panels, suitably embellished with emblematic devices. A golden-fringed national drapery falls from the proscenium, displaying an ingeniously contrived allegory in the centre. Four columns sustain an ornamented entablature above, composed of a mixed style of architecture, and copied after those of the celebrated temple of Benares.
Burnt on the 30th of July, 1842, was rebuilt and reopened on the 5th of December following, at a cost of $28,000. The building is ninety by one hundred and fifty feet, and sufficiently elevated for all the purposes of the drama, but irregular in its altitude. The depth of the stage is sixty feet, and the width of the proscenium thirty-eight. The house will accommodate over fifteen hundred persons. It stands near Lafayette square, on Poydras street; and, from its isolated position, presents quite an imposing appearance.
The company have fitted up the old depôt of the Carrolton rail-road, situated on the corner of Poydras and Baronne streets, as a place for exhibiting feats of horsemanship. As the buildings possess no especial interest beyond these performances, they require no particular description—but as this amusement has an attraction for almost every class of visitors, not to have referred to it might have been deemed an inexcusable oversight. There is a stage attached to this establishment; and farces and the ballet relieve the monotony of the sports of the ring.
Although the public squares in New Orleans are neither numerous, nor upon a very extended scale, they are located with good taste, and are exceedingly convenient. The centres of Canal, Esplanade, Rampart and Basin streets have a very considerable space set apart for embellishments. Shrubbery, and other ornaments, are in progress, and they already begin to assume a beauty that does much credit to the city authorities. Nothing is more conducive to health than these pleasant resorts for wholesome exercise. Here the toil-worn citizen, the wearied scholar, and the confined artizan, may breathe the fresh air, enjoy a delightful morning or evening promenade, and catch an imaginary enjoyment, in miniature, of the blessed country.
Washington Squareis in the third municipality; is bounded by the Elysian Fields, Great-Men's, Casa Calvo and Frenchmen streets.—Though admirably situated, owing to the distanceit stands from the denser portion of the city, it has not yet received those attentions which, at some future day, will render it a beautiful promenade.
Place d'Armes, orParade Square, is still more prominent, and is embellished with fine trees; but, as it is in the centre of the first municipality, with the public buildings on one front and the levee on the other, it is a matter of surprise that it has not been improved in a style worthy of the inhabitants; who, certainly are capable of appreciating the advantages of such delightful grounds.
Circus Placeis below Rampart street, with St. Claude on the rear, and St. Ann and St. Peter streets on its sides. This is the square once known asCongo Park; and is the place where the negroes, in olden times, were accustomed to meet to while away the cares of servitude. Many an old inhabitant can remember when he beheld these thoughtless beings dancing "Old Virginia never tire," or some other favorite air, with such a hearty gusto, upon the green sward, that the very ground trembled beneath their feet. Though the loud laugh, and the unsophisticated break-down, and double-shuffle of these primitive days have ceased, the spot yet remains, with all its reminiscences, as original as ever, with its capabilities of improvement still unimpaired.
Lafayette Squareis decidedly the handsomest in the city. It is in the second municipality, andhas St. Charles and Camp streets in front and rear, and several public buildings in its immediate neighborhood. It has a handsome and substantial iron railing around it, based upon well laid blocks of granite; is well laid off in regular walks, and is ornamented with beautiful and rare shrubbery, set out with geometrical accuracy on a raised surface, calculated to make it dry and pleasant.
Annunciation Square, in the same municipality, is the largest, and, consequently, may some day become the most elegant in the city. Orange and Race streets are on its front and rear—and facing are some very tasteful private residences.
Tivoli Circle, as its name would imply, is a circular piece of land laid off as a public ground in Nyade, at the head of St. Charles street, and is intended to be ornamented.
Antiquity! the olden time! the hoary, venerable past! there is something sacred and soul subduing in the very sound of the words. Like the dying echo of the last tones of the departed, it is full of hallowed memories, and cherished associations, that haunt the inner chambers of the imagination, and linger with a mournful tenderness about the better feelings of the heart.
But what haveweto do with Antiquity! They of the old World, who were grey with time and tottering with decay when, but yesterday, they saw us spring into being, laugh at our sometime boast of Antiquity; and well they may, for it is hardly as well substantiated as that of the simple boy who conceived himself the oldest person in the world, because he could not remember when he was born. Yet even we, in the New World, we, of its second or third generation, whose fathers were present at its birth and baptism, evenwebegin to talk gravely of the olden time, and to sigh and look sad over the melancholy grandeur of the past!
New Orleans in 1728.New Orleans in 1728.
Well, be it so. In these stirring times, an age is shorter, and sooner achieved, than in those of "thesluggish eld." Time is measured by events, and not by revolutions of the sun—by the progress of the mind, not by the slow sifting sands of the hour glass, and the amazing precocity of these latter days makes many ages out of a single century.
But what a vandal spirit is innovation! what a ruthless destroyer is this boasted modern improvement! It sweeps over the land with the energy of a new creation, demolishing and scattering whatever lies in its way, for the mere pleasure of reproducing it in a new and better form. It removes the ancient land marks, obliterates the last traces of ancient power and grandeur, levels mountains, fills up valleys, turns the courses of rivers, and makes all things bend to its iron will.
It works such rapid and magical changes in its headlong career, that few of us are able to point out whathas been, or to predict with certainty whatwill beto morrow. Let us cherish then, with deeper veneration, the few relics that remain of the days of our fathers. Let us reverence Antiquity such as it is. Let the street commissioner, and theimproverof old estates—
Spare that ancient house,Touch not a single brick—
Spare that ancient house,Touch not a single brick—
It is almost alone in its sombre dignity, in the midst of younger and gayer edifices, that have swept New Orleansas it was, into the shade of oblivion. Antiquity—I mean, if I may be allowed theIrish figure of speech—modern Antiquity, her countenance grave with sorrow, with here and there a furrow upon her yet ample brow, protests against the desecration of all thatwasdear and sacred. Standing on the verge of annihilation, with "one foot in the grave," and conscious that her days are numbered, her dissolution nigh at hand, she commands, she implores us to save one memento of the past, one legible souvenir of "the days of auld lang syne." And here it is.
At the corner of Royal and St. Anne streets, is delineated in the above engraving as it now stands—and long may it remain as a memorial of other times.
Thirty years ago—which, comparatively would take us back three centuries in any Europeancity—thirty years ago, one might have seen from that spot, then the centre of the city, long perspective street-scenes of a similar character.Innovationhas now done her work—has absolutely trodden the city of the last century under her feet.
The Casa Blanca, at the corner of Bienville and Old Levee Streets, has also escaped the general demolition. It was once the courtly residence of Bienville, the first governor of Louisiana—the seat of power, and the centre of wealth, beauty and fashion in the province. It is still on its old foundation, standing "alone in its glory," and the spirit of innovation has so far respected its ancient uses, that it is still a treasury of wealth, and a conservatory of thesweetnessof our favored clime—a store house of sugar and molasses!
Environs of New Orleans.Environs of New Orleans.
In consequence of the level surface of the country in the environs of New Orleans, a great variety of scenery cannot be expected—yet, on the northern shore of lake Pontchartrain, the ground is somewhat higher and rolling, and affords very pleasant positions. Although not formed like the prolific north and west, in hill and dale, cliffs and cascades, alternately varying and beautifying the landscape, yet there are charming rides and rambles in the neighborhood of this city, of which a more minute account will be given under their respective heads, which follow.
Carrolton, a distance of six miles by the rail-road, is an exceedingly pleasant resort. The line, for nearly a third of the way, passes through the suburbs of the city, and is dotted on either side with beautiful residences—the remainder passes through cultivated fields, pleasant pastures, and delightful wood-lands. The road, like the country, is perfectly level, and kept in the finest condition. At the end of the route is situated the village; which is principally composed of tastefully built cottages, constructed in every variety ofarchitecture that suited the individual fancy of the owner. Opposite the rail-road depôt, is one of the handsomest and most extensive public gardens, that is to be found in the vicinity of New Orleans. A race course is near by; and the strolls around are quite cheering to those who fly from the turmoil and dust of the metropolis.
The shell roadof the Canal and Banking Company, affords an agreeable ride to lake Pontchartrain, also a distance of six miles. The highway runs on the margin of the canal, and is not excelled by any road in the United States. It is the great resort for every species of pleasure vehicle that the city furnishes; and here may be seen, on an afternoon, all grades of society, from the gay sportsman, mounted on his fast trotter, to the sober citizen, who sallies forth on his ambling poney, all of whom appear to realize an equal share of enjoyment. A line of comfortably arranged barges also ply on the canal from the lake, at which place a convenient hotel is established. Half way on this road, between the city and the lake, is the highly celebrated Metairie race track.
The pontchartrain rail-road, runs to the lake from which it derives its name, from the head of Elysian Fields street, a distance of five miles. It is a very pretty ride. This route communicates with the great northern mail line, which goes by the way of Mobile—and all the steamboats,that traverse the lakes to the various villages and landings that surround it, make this their general starting point. From here, a passage is obtained to Biloxi, which, the reader will recollect, was the first spot settled by the French in this portion of the world; and, from that circumstance, will naturally excite the curiosity of the intelligent wayfarer. At the termination of this rail-road is a first-rate hotel for the accommodation of visitors. Here is good bathing, fishing and shooting; and, beneath the shade of the trees, the breeze from the water is delightfully refreshing.
The mexican gulf rail-road, runs from Elysian Fields street, on Good Children street, towards Lake Borgne. There are twenty eight miles of this road now in operation. When finished, it will afford considerable facilities to commerce, besides great benefit to the citizens, conveying them, in about one and a half hours, to the refreshing breeze of the ocean—where fish, oysters and game may be found in abundance. No doubt it will compete with the most favored watering places of Bay St. Louis, Pass Christian, Biloxi, &c. It will also be a great accommodation to the planters in the neighborhood—who already, so far as it goes, have given it good encouragement. This road has recently been purchased of the State, by A. Gordon and Co., who, availing themselves of about 22 miles of the Nashville rail-roadiron, are bringing this work to a rapid completion.
The road of bayou st. john, which follows the sinuosities of that stream, and reaches lake Pontchartrain at the site of the old fort St. John, after travelling the distance of about six miles, presents a very pleasant drive. Returning by the new Shell road before mentioned, it varies the route without adding much to the distance.
Macdonoughstands on the banks of the river opposite to New Orleans; and the crossing, in the hottest weather, is generally accompanied by a slight breeze, rendered cool and pleasant by the mighty current of the river, which comes from the icy springs of the Alleghanies and the Rocky mountains. The village, of itself, possesses no great beauty—but the country, the beautiful country is all around—and the noise and confusion of the city no longer annoy you. The great attraction at this spot is in visiting the United States marine hospital, one of the handsomest structures in Louisiana, which stands a little above.
Algiersadjoins, and seems a part of Macdonough. This is the great work-shop of New Orleans, for the building and repairing of vessels. It has its dry docks, and other facilities for the most extensive operations. In business times, it presents a scene of activity that is seldom observed in any other part of these regions, and remindsone of the bustling and enterprise of the North. The period has been when Algiers prescribed the law,vi et armis, to the city itself—but the day and the disposition, have happily long since passed away.
Gretna, on the same shore, is nearly two miles further up the river, and stands opposite Lafayette. The whole distance is spotted with comfortable residences, principally inhabited by the owners of the adjoining grounds, and the walk from Algiers to this village is very gratifying to one partial to such exercise. There is a steamboat constantly plying from here to the city, which affords a desirable excursion of nearly three miles, touching at Lafayette in its passage each way. The village has a rural appearance, is regularly laid out, and exhibits some neat tenements. The forest approaches quite near; and, the idea that one may so easily lose himself in the neighboring woods, gives to the place a touch of romance which only the denizens of a crowded city know how to appreciate. From the great number of cattle observed along the shore, it would seem as if there was no necessity of diluting the milk for the New Orleans market, unless the milkmen be tea-total temperance men, and take this method to introduce the inhabitants gradually to a taste for water.
The race courses.There are three of thesein the vicinity of this city. TheLouisiana, near lake Pontchartrain; theMetairie, near the Shell road; and the one at Carrolton. These are as well patronised as any in the country, and, in the racing season, the inhabitants of the neighboring states, from a great distance, flock hither to participate in the sports of the turf. Much praise has been bestowed upon the arrangements on these occasions. Even here, as in many other countries, the ladies, by their presence, have given them countenance and encouragement—and the course usually is "gemmed by the rich beauty of the sunny south."
The battle ground, (formerly known as "the Plains of Chalmette,") the very naming of which causes the bosom of an American to swell with patriotic pride, lies five miles below the city. It may be approached either by the Grand Gulf rail-road, or by a good highway along the levee, the new Convent and United States barracks being within full view. But first it may be necessary to look briefly at the historical facts which give celebrity to the spot.
Early in December, 1814, the British approached New Orleans, about 8000 strong, by the way of the lakes Borgne and Pontchartrain. Their passage into the lake was opposed by a squadron of gun-boats under Lieut. Jones. After a spirited conflict, in which the killed (500) andthe wounded of the enemy exceeded the whole American force, he was compelled to surrender to superior numbers.
On the 21st of Dec. four thousand militia arrived from Kentucky and Tennessee, under General Jackson. On the 22nd, the enemy having previously landed, took a position near the Mississippi, eight miles below the city. On the evening of the 23d, the Americans made a furious attack upon their camp, and threw them into disorder, with five hundred of their men killed. The enemy rallied; and Gen. Jackson withdrew his troops, and fortified a strong position six miles below the city, supported by batteries on the west side of the river. Here he was unsuccessfully assailed on the 28th of Dec. and 1st of Jan., the enemy losing two hundred to three hundred men. In the mean time both armies received reinforcements.
The decisive battle was fought on the 8th day of Jan. 1815. The American right was on the river, running in a right angle to the wood. A redoubt was raised (which is still visible) strengthened by bales of cotton along the whole line. The enemy were about a half mile lower down, on a parallel line, their head quarters resting on the river, near three large oaks which still mark the spot. The scene is distinct, and this isthe battle ground.
The British commenced the assault at day light.As they approached the works, sixty deep, many were killed by grape shot; but, when they came within musket range, a destructive stream of fire burst forth from the American lines. Our troops were placed in two ranks, the rear loading while the front fired, thus pouring an incessant peal—which, from Kentucky and Tennessee riflemen, was most deadly. While leading on the troops of the enemy, Gen. Pakenham, the chief in command, was killed; Gen. Gibbs, the second in command, was wounded mortally; and Gen. Keene severely. Without officers to direct them, the troops halted, fell back, and soon fled in confusion to their camp. In a little over an hour, two thousand out of eight thousand veterans lay dead upon the field, while the Americans had but seven killed and six wounded—a disproportion unparalleled in the history of warfare. Gen. Lambert, upon whom the command then devolved, after one more unsuccessful attempt to assault, availed himself of a truce of twenty-four hours to bury the dead, made good his retreat—which Gen. Jackson felt no disposition to molest, as he was resolved to hazard none of his advantages. Thus was New Orleans saved from the hands of an invading enemy whose War cry was—"Beauty and Booty."
The British lost during the month they were in Louisiana, more than three thousand three hundred and fifty in killed, while the loss of theAmericans was not two hundred. The wounded of the enemy must have been much less, on account of the sure aim of the backwoodsmen. The greater portion of our army were plain honest farmers—who knew nothing of battle—they heard that their country was in danger—the country which gave a home to them, and their children, and they flew to its defence,—drove the invaders from their shores, and then returned to their homes to till the ground.
It is not a matter of surprise—though the battle is without a parallel in the history of the world—that even "invincibles," were so dreadfully routed by undisciplined backwoodsmen defending their native soil, with their wives and children behind them.
A jaunt to these grounds is a sort of pilgrimage, that no stranger will, that no citizen can neglect. Not to have seen the field of this great victory, would be a reflection upon the taste, not to say the patriotism of any who should visit our city. The ground it is true, presents few memorials to remind the patriotic visitor of the deadly strife. There is no proud monument, towering to the sky, to mark the place where the great victory was won. But he beholds the consequences wherever he turns his eye, and he feels them—deeply feels them in every throb of his heart. Those born upon the soil, and those who participated in the struggle,have reason to be proud of the spot, and to cherish the memory of that eventful day. If there is no lofty structure of granite or marble, to perpetuate the glorious achievement, it has a holier, a more enduring memorial in the heart of every true American, which thrills with lofty pride at every allusion to it, as did the ancient Greek at the name of Marathon, or the Spartan at that of Thermopylæ.