Wednesday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 50°, with symptoms of rain. We found many traces of the wild boar. The road was covered withdurú, which has replaced thekelakh, now becoming more rare. We started a wolf. We were hardly well on the road when it began to pour torrents of rain, which lasted for three hours. All our things were soaked through and through. We passed over two streams, along a large causeway, through the ruins of Mansoríyah[38]and the town of Feḍáh, where a road turns off for Morocco, and continued our route to Dár el Beïḍá (the white house), where we pitched our tents outside the town, at the recommendation of our káïd. No sooner, however, were our tents up, than I was summoned to visit the prince, who compelled us to strike the tents and to come into the town for our better protection, owing to the unsafe state of thecountry. He pointed out a spot opposite the palace. Múléï Hámed,[39]the son of the Emperor of Morocco, is a poor puny boy. I was received with all the honours. The guard was picked and well mounted. Abú was sent for, and ourmonnahwas extravagant: it included a camel. I felt rather the worse for the wetting.
Thursday, Jan. 6.—Therm. 45°. Late in getting off. We left this ruin of a town, and part of ourmonnah, which the soldiers had sold. We passed through a level and uninteresting country, till elevenA.M., when we halted for a few minutes on a most beautiful plot of ground, carpeted with wild flowers. We then entered a large forest ofdurú; and then halted a second time at an old well of bad water, full of small tortoises. We continued our route through the wood, but finding we could not reach our station before dark, we took up our quarters for the night amongst some Arab tents placed as a guard. As we had nothing to eat, both men and cattle were compelled to keep Ramaḍán. The whole party sulky, and out of spirits. I sent some soldiers to levy contributions on the neighbourhood. A mysterious lady was here riding an immense camel; I could not, however, get a peep at her face. At this place we saw a camel and an ox harnessed to the same plough. Finding persuasions of no avail, I tried another tack, and tied up six of the poor Arabs, to force them to tell where they kept their barley. We got a little for the horses and mules. My soldiers will not pitch their tents, having to keep guard all night. There appear some symptoms of a quarrel. Our encampment was curious, but the situation beautiful. Several Jewish families are claiming my protection, and all sleep is out of the question.
Friday, Jan. 7.—Therm. 50°. All my people grumbling, and the soldiers very ill. The rain came down in torrents, and at twoA.M.found its way through the tents. My misery commenced at four. My great object was to keep myself dry, and to save myzulhamand carpet. We did not get off till seven: it was too dark to proceed earlier. Passed through a wooded country similar to that of yesterday. At half-past nine a hurricanecame on from the sea, which nearly blew our mules over. We were obliged to get under the bushes for shelter. We were all wetted to the skin. At elevenA.M.it cleared up, when we came upon an immense extent of ruins and a burial-ground, that took us half an hour to pass through. There were the tombs of seven sheikhs, two of which were very beautiful. At half-past twelve we saw Azamór in the distance, and soon arrived at the river Omm rabí’ (the mother of herbage). The stream was running very fast, and was nearly as wide as the Thames at London. It was highly coloured with red earth, and abounds withshibbel. After some time we contrived to cross it. No sooner was I fairly landed on the opposite bank, than I was pestered to death to go up to the governor’s; but, being in a sulky humour, doggedly refused. Rode round the town, which, externally, is rather pretty, but within, the dirtiest place I have ever seen. This, I understand, arises from the immense number of cattle kept in the neighbourhood, all of which are driven into the streets of the city at night, and a perfect Augean stable they make of it. The governor was for squeezing presents out of me. I was very cool. He began by the usual compliments, and stated that he had given directions for the encampment. I told him that I expected a house. This he then offered; but I determined to encamp outside the town. The soldier who went for the baggage has called for a present. This I refused, and sent a message to the governor, to say that I have been badly received, and shall mention this to the Sulṭán. Upon hearing this, the governor sent for Cohen in a great hurry. I am determined to have my way, and if Cohen plays his cards well he may gain a bribe. He returned with an immensemonnahof sheep, fowls, eggs, butter, sugar, sweetmeats, candles, &c. The surprise of these people that a Christian can do what I have done for Abú exceeds all conception.[40]The governor wishes me to remain here to-morrow; after which he is going up and will accompany me to Morocco. We are all knocked up, and Imust therefore consent. The tent is wet through and through, and my situation miserable in the extreme.
Saturday, Jan. 8.—Therm. 51°. Learned the difference between a wretched and comfortable night. The morning beautiful, with every sign of a fine day. Busy in drying our things. Went to see the governor in the sainted suburb, which is quite another place from the city. Here is thekubbahor záwiyah of the famed Sídi Múléï Abú Shu’eïb.[41]The governor improves upon acquaintance. Four Europeans came to pay a visit while I was there: luckily they are not Englishmen, although one is the English agent. All took off their boots and shoes, and one beast crawled on his knees to kiss the káïd’s hands. It is such humiliating conduct that lowers us in the eyes of this people. Had I seen Mr. Garcia take off his hat, I should have remonstrated with him. Cohen tells me that he did so. I would have a chair, and I moved my hat both on entering and leaving. The governor asked me to go and see his son, who was very ill, and far advanced in a dropsy. I ordered him some medicine, but it will be of little use, as I cannot stop to attend to him, and the people here are not to be trusted with two doses of any thing [for fear, it would seem, of their giving both at once]. The gardens are beautiful, and there is a good deal of manual labour expended on their cultivation. I kept myself confined to my tent for two hours, before I could get the people to send for the medicine I had prescribed for a man who was nearly dying. The governor received a visit from Mr. Garcia, Hámed and two other Nasáras, together with one Don Pedro, the principal merchant at Mazagan. Therm. in the sun stood at 70°, and at oneP.M.touched upon 80°. The governor has sent to know at what time I should like to start to-morrow, and the four Europeans want me to come round by Mazagan. The history of the governor’s life is a curious one. He was originally a fisherman on the Umm rabí’, and can neither read nor write. Before the Sulṭán came to the throne he was in great distress for a small sum of money. The fisherman possessed the finest horse in the country: thishe sold, and carried the money to ’Abd-er-rahmán Ben Háshem, and thus relieved him from his difficulties. No sooner was he Sulṭán of Morocco than he made the fisherman governor of Azamór; and the latter has continued ever since a great favourite. He is very rich, and greatly beloved. Azamór, possessing the sacredfauxbourgwith the tombs of Múléï Bú Shú’eïb, swarms with impostors in the shape of saints, fakírs, &c. I received a visit from one of these fellows, who said that he came to see his son, and brought with him a handful of bad dates; but I soon sent him off. This, however, did not prevent a swarm of them from pestering me. But I bade my soldiers tell them that I would give them nothing: they could and should work, or go to those who believed in them. The school-boys next came with their boards: to these I gave a few ounces, and begged to be left alone. Patients then, out of number, with diseases that were never heard of, next besieged my quarters; these were followed by the ladies, the hardest of all to satisfy. The rear was brought up by the minstrels, whose music was as noisy as their words were nonsensical. Tired of Azamór, I could have performed the journey to Morocco on foot in three days; but I had twenty-seven animals and thirty people to feed, and one can stop only where provisions are to be found. To these must be added the governor’s party, which, men and beasts together, exceeded two hundred head. To-morrow we enter the province of Dukkálah. Towards night-fall there was a great squabble outside the tent, and I was obliged to go to Cohen’s rescue. The káïd of Azamór wished me to take a present, consisting of fowls, sugar, and wax-candles, for my attendance on his son: this my káïd and soldiers said would be deducted from theirmonnah. Upon this there arose a good deal of contention. As themonnahwas for myself alone, I find I have done wrong in giving them any of it, for they now claim the whole. I will be a match for them yet. There has been already a great deal of chaffing about the sale of a sheep-skin this morning, which fetched seven-pence, and the soldiers could not agree about the division of the money. Through the fear of being devoured by the dogs, that aremore fierce and numerous here than in any other place, I packed up again, hoping to start by day-break; and though I do not like travelling on a Sunday, any thing is better than remaining here.
Sunday, Jan. 9.—Therm. 47°. The weather cold. Tried hard to get off before the Mazazan[42]party and the governor, but failed to do so. I had got rid of the first, when a soldier of the governor came to see why we were noten route. We found him on a hill that overlooks Mazazan, with an escort of sixty horse, his camels and baggage having gone before. We rode through his gardens, the soil of which was very rich, and, after exchanging compliments, he took the lead. The road there leaves the sea, and runs E.S.E. to Morocco. It was lined with people desirous to shew respect to him; the women screaming, their scarfs and kerchiefs tied to reeds by way of banners; the school-boys, with their boards, and the saints seated along the side of the road; a man riding by the side of the governor, distributing money. We reached our place of encampment at twoP.M., having been met by the Sheïkh and some of his people from thedawár, at which we are to stop. The encampment looked very beautiful. The governor’s tent, with his red and green standard, and twenty other tents; mine with four; and as fresh parties were continually arriving till it was dark, the whole number could not have been less than from two to three hundred. My own people are anxious not to continue with the governor. I had a great row with them, and threatened to send them off. They will, however, return to their senses, as they like themonnahand their ease; but to-night I have kept it all to myself, and they have become very good. Read the evening service and 10th chapter of the Acts. Received lots of patients, and a visit from two of the descendants of the famed Múléï Bú Shú’eïb.
Monday, Jan. 10.—Therm. 50°. Signs of rain. Tried hard, but failed to get off before the governor. Our caravan is now above three hundred. The road was lined the same as yesterday. The soil was one of great fertility. By a gradual ascent we entered Dukkálah, celebrated for its breed of horses. Indeed both men and cattle are finer here than in any otherpart of the empire. At 10A.M.we saw Jebel Khadr, rising from an almost boundless plain. At 11 we halted for a few minutes at a lovely spot, where there were palm-trees and a spring of water. We then, by a steep ascent, came upon a second plateau, from which we had a magnificent view of Mount Atlas covered with snow. We halted for the night at the mesallá of Bú’ Sanawerer, who was a great saint. The wind was so high that we were in great fear lest the tent should be carried away. Themonnahwas very late in coming, and I was obliged to turn story-teller to keep the people in good humour, and afterwards threatened the Sheïkh of thedawár. The weather cold.
Tuesday, Jan. 11.—Therm. 47°. At day-break I was surrounded by patients, men, women, and children; compelled to use sticks to keep them off. There was a large market in the open air. Could it be believed that my party allowed the whole caravan to move off while I was engaged with my patients. They lost their way in the immense plain, which is within a few days’ journey of Morocco. I went on to Gherando; from a village at the foot of which the governor came out to meet the káïd of Azamór. Quantities of powder wasted, and no little hallooing and screaming. We encamped outside the town; here tea was sent with three different sets of china, fire, &c. &c.; thin bread and butter; then hot victuals, and then themonnah. I was never so sick of the sight of food. Received many patients; amongst them the governor, who came early.
Wednesday, Jan. 12.—Therm. 50°. Up as soon as the moon rose, with the view of getting to Suwaïníyah this evening. Dispatched two soldiers to Morocco, to inform the Sulṭán of my arrival, and to learn where I was to lodge. From four to seven tried in vain to get off. It is plain that my káïd wants to make another day of it. To prevent this, I started, and took my baggage mules, to spite them; found I knocked myself up by walking very fast for four hours. I have, however, frightened them, and we halted at Suwaïníyah, where I looked at a fine aqueduct cut through a limestone rock, for which the poor fellows got nothing. Water beautiful, but a little warm. We reached Suwaïníyah about 5P.M.; a large encampment was here before us, and the káïd of Azamór had still to come up. Wepitched our tents near the aqueduct and tank, with some tents from Fez, and at about 100 yards from the káïd of Azamór. The same immense plain as the one mentioned before was covered with agates and jaspers; there were no trees, but a great quantity of a strong shrub. I felt a presentiment that something would happen; I therefore took down my sword and looked at my pistols, and turned in early, although not sleepy.
Thursday, Jan. 13.—Therm. 50°. I was right in my conjecture. At half-past twelve, the soldier who rode the white horse, and whom I had always suspected, gave an alarm of thieves. We got up in haste, and a fellow called ’Abd el Kerím stated that he saw a man run between them. We turned in again, and at fourA.M.poor Abú came to me and said that he had been robbed of his jacket, which he always put under his head for a pillow, in the pocket of which was my gold watch, which I had given him to carry for safety. The káïd, in whose tent he had been sleeping as usual, could not account for the loss, and all wanted me to start. This I refused, and stated that I should wait till daybreak. I then dispatched all but three mules, and determined to go to the káïd of Azamór; but as the people assured me they had already told him, I started, leaving behind my káïd, the soldier on the white horse, and ’Abd el Kerím. Another káïd, who had the command of five soldiers, agreed with me in my suspicions that all was not right. After an interval of two hours, up came the remainder of the party with Abú’s jacket, but no watch in it. They said they had found it near the tank, and my káïd asked, with great effrontery, if I did not mean to let the matter drop, as it was God’s will that I should lose the watch. I replied, by bidding him come immediately to the káïd of Azamór, whom we had overtaken, and told him he should answer for the loss with his head. I then passed on, the fellow crying, and we shortly arrived at a fine mountain pass, on issuing from which we had a view of Morocco. As soon as we reached the date-grove, we found the Sulṭán and his troops ready to receive us with all honours. We passed the Tensif by el Kantarah, a bridge of eighteen arches, and stopped, according to custom, to wash ourselves. I observed my káïd and ’Abd el Kerím in company with the Rifman who had the charge of the mules.They passed on without saying a word, when up came a soldier with a lad, who had confessed to the robbery, and stated that he had concealed the watch under the bridge. A pardon was promised him if he would point out the spot; but when he was let go, I felt sure that he was not the culprit, and sent after him. Upon his return, I told him that he would lose his hand, and perhaps his head, and I requested the person who was sent by the Sulṭán to bid me welcome and to conduct me to his garden, to inquire of the lad where he had found the watch, and what he had done with the waistcoat. The lad replied he never saw the waistcoat. All of them, however, admitted that they had seen Abú put the watch into the pocket of the waistcoat, and both under his head, and that he had so slept during the whole journey. The boy likewise added, he had put the watch into a tree, while ’Abd el Kerím said, he found the waistcoat under the bridge. This convinced me that the lad had nothing to do with the robbery, and I bade them let the boy go, saying that he was not the thief. On this the blood of the soldier rose up, and he muttered a threat. I told him I cared nothing for his threats. They then charged him with having stolen other things, and pretended to put him under confinement. I arrived at the gardens of Múláï Músá at fourP.M., after making the circuit of the city, and was ushered into the ruins of a palace. I was hardly off my mule, when the soldiers who accompanied me came first to demand a present, then the káïd, who had conducted me, and, lastly, the cleaners of the place I was to inhabit. The Sheïkh of the Jews likewise made his appearance to receive orders for what I wanted; and as I am unfortunately to live at the Sulṭan’s expense, it will cost me about four times as much as if I had to buy every thing. I continued to pay, however, till my pockets were empty. In my way to this place I had passed the village of lepers, and a sad sight it was. I then got rid of all the people, and laid down on the still wet floor of my large room, and was soon asleep, sadly disappointed with my first night at Morocco.
Friday, Jan. 14.—Here in the ruined palace of Múláï Músá, situated in a garden on the south side of the city of Morocco, but within the walls, am I a sort of state prisoner. My large audience-chamber has two hutchesin it, like thecabousesof a Dutch galiot; these are intended for sleeping places. I have, however, taken up my quarters in the middle of the room, from which there is a view of a large court-yard. The room has once been very splendid. It is 38 feet by 17, and 30 high. The roof and sides were highly ornamented. At the east end is the kiblah,[43]the Moorish arch, and at the west a small chamber, but without any window, occupied by Abú as a bed-room. In the centre of the court-yard, which is about twice the size of the room, is an immense vase for water. On each side of my room are large chambers, occupied by my two káïds and soldiers, and a large kitchen, &c.; and at the corners are the sleeping-places for the servants, forming a kind offanál,[44]from which run rooms overlooking the garden, which is now overgrown with weeds. I saw there a great quantity of gold fish, a grove of orange, date, and olive trees, a small mosque, and a splendid tank well supplied with water, which, as it overflows, is carried through the garden in channels that are bounded by trellised walks covered with vines. Outside of the garden is a grand building with gates, strong enough for a fortress. Got up early. Therm. 50°; the day fine. Paid my soldiers. The poor fellow who had been charged with the theft was brought out and bastinadoed. I received a visit from a female saint, who was dressed in green, as being a relation of the Sulṭán, and of an old family; she wanted and received a trifling present. The soldiers have expressed themselves dissatisfied, although I have paid them as much as the Sulṭán does. Wrote to Mr. Hay, and received a visit from the Sheïkh of the Jews, who is to provide for me, and the expense is to be deducted from their tax, which is only 1,000 dollars a-year, paid according to the means of the people. There are here about 5,000 Jews, exclusive of the children, who are very numerous. I was visited by lots of patients; among the rest was the court eunuch, and the son of Levi Yákoút, the British agent; the former of whom was affected with a disorder in his feet, and the latter in his eyes.
Saturday, Jan. 15. Therm. 51°.—Received a message from the báshá ofthe district, to know if I was comfortable. Amongst the visitors to-day were several saints, but they could not squeeze a drop from me. Visited the Millah or Jew’s quarter; it was filthy to a degree. Had far more patients than I could attend to. Returned home, and got rid of the vermin I had picked up by way of fees. This is a great day with the Moslems; it is the 27th of Ramadán, when free license is given to men and women. Received a present of cold food from Yákút, whose family I am attending. I had a long and interesting conversation with him. It appears that I am the only Christian in the place, with the exception of four French prisoners, who have assumed the Moorish dress. I went to a large house in the Millah, where I had a fine view of the city, with its palace, mosques, and granaries. I have been pestered by more saints, and my soldiers are quite horror-struck at the manner in which I treat these impostors. Another disturbance amongst the soldiers about the watch. Káïd ’Alí thinks I shall not be safe unless I take some precautions; I have, therefore, placed his bed across my door, which he requests may be securely fastened.
Sunday, Jan. 17.[45]—Therm. 51°. Cohen was sent for by the minister before I was up. The interview was very satisfactory, with great offers of kindness. I went again to the Millah to see my patients. The lad who was said to be implicated in the theft was brought again to be bastinadoed, but I prevented it, and threatened to go to the minister. At this the soldiers were frightened, and, after loading my pistols, I threatened to shoot any man who presumed to come into my rooms. I then read the service of the day, and, after making up my medicines, I received an order to visit the minister. As soon as it was dark a guard was sent for me; when, wrapped up in myzulham, I was led through the crowded bázár, and after turning and turning again, that I might not know the way, came to an enclosure, where several horsemen were waiting. I then went from door to door, till at last I reached one strongly nailed and barred, where my guide having knocked, a negro’s head popped out, and after hearing the words el Hájí, whispers were exchanged, and Cohen and myself were led up a dark passage. The four Moors to whom the horses belongedwere then let out, and the minister came into the passage and ushered me into his room. Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí is a middle-aged man, of low stature, and dirty in his dress; his room was filled with papers. After bringing in a chair for me, he seated himself in his alcove, with Cohen on his left. He then ordered tea, and began to converse with great freedom, expressed his pleasure at seeing me, assured me of the Sultán’s favour, and begged I would command his best services. He questioned me on all points of medicine and surgery, of which he knows something. He referred to several medical works, and spoke of the practice of other countries, and was much better informed than I expected. He asked me to examine his two black women; for, said he, we take as great care of our slaves as you have done of Abú. While we were with the females, the clerk of the market came in and the ladies ran away, and I was left with this porpoise for a patient; I remained about an hour, during which I had continually tea, tea, tea. I was told that the Sultán had given orders for me to see his palaces to-morrow, and that he would see me himself if business permitted, and that I was to be in readiness for the guard at sevenA.M.
Monday, Jan. 18.—Therm. 46°. The weather very cold. I was up early, to be ready for the visit. It was already past nine, when the Lieut.-Governor of the Meshwá arrived, accompanied by an escort of soldiers, with the Sultán’s orders to conduct me to his palaces and gardens. The mules and horses were got ready, and off went the cavalcade—poor Cohen on his ten toes—through heaps of ruins. We passed the finest arch I have yet seen, and the horse on which myhader[46]rides is the most splendid animal I have yet met with. Arrived at the palace, I found court after court filled with soldiers. The Sultán had stationed himself at a window to see us as we passed. We dismounted at the house of the minister, of the court jester, and of the commander of the forces, and then mounted again, and proceeded by the lateral squares, which were filled in like manner with soldiers, to the saluting battery, where we saw guns of all shapes and sizes, but without carriages, whose place was supplied by pieces of wood. We then visited several kiosks, very beautifully painted,and afterwards the garden of[47]: from thence to Dar el Beidá, which is rather pretty, and then to the new palace, which is the most tasteful of all. Our route lay afterwards through a series of orange and olive groves to the ruined palace of Múláï Músa with its immense tank, and we went out at the gate, from whence we had a fine view of Mount Atlas. We then proceeded along a covered walk of laris,[48]extending above half a mile, and passing a fine aqueduct, entered a second walk formed of a wood of dates, and a third of pine, which was at the back of the palace, and from thence we returned home. After this I visited my patients at the Millah, where I found a whole host of fresh ones, ready to devour me. I received also a visit from the Hakím Bashi (the chief physician), who came to examine me; but I posed the old fellow by my long names and hard words. He had brought with him a quantity of leaves of plants, of woods, &c. to ask me their names and uses. I humbugged him considerably. He has promised to bring me all their works on medicine and surgery, and, after saying a great deal about my talents, &c. he seemed to expect a present; whereupon I told him plainly that I would give him nothing. I suspect, however, that I did him an injustice, for he asserted that he came merely for information respecting one of his patients who is frightened at his own danger. The most curious part of my practice is, that I am compelled to taste my own medicines, to prove that they are not poisons. Two of the Frenchmen who were taken at Telemsán called upon me to state their case. They complained of their hardship, in being duped to change their religion. I gave each of them a dollar; but I cannot interfere in their behalf. I am to have an interview with the Sultán as soon as the fast finishes. The small-pox has broken out in the Millah, and I have been attending the sick until I am sick myself.
Tuesday, Jan. 19.—Therm. 50°. Not very well. My door is actually besieged with patients. The father-in-law and the brother-in-law of the Sultán, the Sherríf, all are ill, or fancy themselves so. The son of the physician who visited me yesterday called to-day; by all these I wasdetained at home till 4P.M.; I then went to the Millah. I find it is quite impossible to attend to all the patients; while I am in one house the inmates of the whole street collect at the door. The diseases that puzzle me most are disorders of the eye and sterility; and scarcely less perplexing is the complaint of the Moorish men. I must really shut up shop, or I shall be knocked up. In the evening there was a deafening roar of guns, trumpets, &c., as the moon is visible and the fast over. I suppose this will confine me at home to-morrow, although I have promised to go early to the Millah, where I have two very pretty but very troublesome patients. After to-morrow I shall see the Sultán, and this will decide my future movements.
Wednesday, Jan. 20.—Therm. 51°. The house crowded with patients. I am quite tired of my trade. The garden is swarming with soldiers, as it is the first day of the feast. After dispensing medicines all the morning, I went to the Millah, where I found lots of lady patients, whose chief complaint was the want of children. Saw some very bad cases, and returned home, where I was pestered till dark. Received presents of cold fish. Feel not very well. Had a message from the Sultán to say that I was to go to-morrow to see the city, upon one of its grand market-days.
Thursday, Jan. 21.—Therm. 50°. It has been very cold during the night. During the whole morning the house was crowded with patients. At noon, El Hájí came to take me to the Sultán’s garden in the city. Having first paid a visit to the Káïd of Azamór, where there was a large party at tea and talk, I proceeded to the garden of the Sultán, where I found the Minister, the chief Taleb, the Clerk of the market, and the tenant of the gardens, Múláï Ben Ali Ben Musúl, a great friend of the Sultán. Here I had to take tea again, and was then asked to dine. The conversation was entirely on medical subjects, and, as all said they were ill, I had to prescribe for them all. I was then taken into the garden, and asked if I could procure abortion, and how it was effected. I told them it was death by the English law to make even the attempt, at which they expressed their surprise. I was then asked, as I would not eat, to continue my walk in the gardens, where I felt certain the Sultán was [although I did not see him]. After he was gone, I was shewn the ladiesof all colours and ages, who were more pleased with me than I with them. I was detained there till fourP.M., when I was told that the city gates were closed, as this was the day of the great feast. I then went to the Jewry to visit my patients. In the evening I received a message from the Sultán to say that all the city would be closed on Sunday, but that I had permission to go when and where I pleased, and that I should always take soldiers with me, to command respect. I have been asked to visit the governor of the Meshwá to-morrow, to see what was his complaint. Retired to rest, quite done up, and unable to write any letters.
Friday, Jan. 22.—Therm. 51°. El Hájí came to take me to Kaid Jelábí Ben Boaza, governor of the Meshwá. There was little the matter with him, except that he felt cold in some parts of his body and had bad eyes. His wife was in a very indifferent state of health. I promised to make up some medicines, and received a present of twenty fowls. Patients are increasing till I am ill myself. Went to the Millah and found more people ill, and so am I. On my return home, I was ordered to attend the minister this evening, but stated I could not do so, and went to my carpet very unwell.
Saturday, Jan. 23.—Therm. 50°. Tried hard to write a few lines, but found it impossible to do so. Passed a very bad night, and was obliged to send away all my patients. Kept my carpet till twoP.M.Went to the Jewry to dine with the British agent; found all my patients worse. Had a visit from Múláï Hijází, the court jester, who is the second person in the empire; but I make no presents, and he gives no help without them. Our dinner was a curiosity. A Jew must not light a fire from Friday evening to Saturday evening; hence their whole food for the Sabbath is put upon the fire and kept there for twenty-four hours, a large quantity of fuel having been previously placed there for that purpose. The dinner is rather curious than palateable. On my return home received a message to go to Sídí Mohammed Ben Alí, where I had tea, &c., and was questioned for two hours on medical points, with the view of making a physician of him. I quite tired out the Moorish doctor, whosemateria medicawas a certificate,[49]that Abú, had he beenquick, might have copied out; but he has become slower and slower. It took the Moorish doctor half an hour to learn how to take two pills every other night. My hypochondriac patient worries me to death, and I shall make an excuse and get away, if possible, next week. I mean to go to the Kaïseríyah (bazar) to-morrow, and shall afterwards lose no time in asking permission to depart. I fear I have little chance of getting on by this route; but I will bring matters to a crisis speedily.
Sunday, Jan. 24.—Therm. 47°. It feels rather cold. Patients out of number; I was called out of bed to attend three: continued actively engaged till half-past elevenP.M., when I began to sink, and was obliged to order the door to be shut. Visited the Kaïseríyah; a very poor thing: was sadly disappointed with the city. The Sultán would hardly believe that I gave advice and medicinegratis. The people here are very insolent. Went home and read the Bible. Visited my patients in Jewry, where I found several new and bad cases. I fear I shall lose one patient to-night, as I cannot obtain permission for the gates of the Millah to be opened for me after dark. Returned home; but did not get my meal in peace. Cohen was sent for by the minister, who was surprised at my pieces of the Korán.[50]I mean to go to the Moorish part of the town no more; have a great quantity of work to do to-morrow.
Monday, Jan. 25.—Therm. 47°. Up at break of day to see my patients; kept hard at work till half-past elevenA.M.Got my breakfast, and had a visit from the minister. Went to see the Sultán’s father-in-law, and then to the Millah; was so tired, that I determined to give up all my patients. Cohen went in the evening to the minister.
Tuesday, Jan. 26.—Therm. 50°, and rising to 80° at noon. Up at day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from theSultán, requesting me to go and see his friend the Báshá Ben Ibráhím; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the Sultán’s barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw much of the city, the tomb of Sídí Ben ’Abbás with its green roof and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms; but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.
Wednesday, Jan. 27.—Therm. 54°. Evident symptoms of a change of weather. I got up early to visit the bashaw; while I was out of the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him, and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultán, to go to see the Káid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I have now two great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that I could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who came in shoals. My stock of medicines is diminishing fast. Went in the evening to the minister, by whom I was complimented highly. He had seen Grenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether I preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as his master wished to make me a present. I told him that I had always found a mule the most useful in my journey. I then offeredto have thePhysician’s Vade Mecumtranslated. He next asked me if I would settle at Marocco, and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the Sultán would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was to be absent from England eighteen months, six of which had already elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then went to the Káïd of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some clear water and stopped him.[51]I find he is a bit of a diplomatist, and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked much of Mr. Willshire, so I must be on my guard.
Thursday, Jan. 28.—Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients, all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister; neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of the Káïd of Mogador.
Friday, Jan. 29.—Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I have quite won the bashaw’s heart. I had this morning to examine all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula, Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred of them. Went home and found there Káïd Músa; afterwards visited Káïd Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in with the Sultán. Went in the evening to see Káïd Jelábí, and on my return home found poor Abú very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.
Saturday, Jan. 30.—Therm. 55°. Went early to Káïd Abdallah, and thence to Káïd Músa, and then to El ’Arabí, while three persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Káïd, I went to the Meshwá, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through court after court, I came into the presence of the Sultán, who was seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully, I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from the Sultán; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultán’s present to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick upon me, while my Káïd was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace to-morrow at tenA.M.I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.
Sunday, Jan. 31.—Therm. 54°. My patient, the Káïd, getting better, I went at tenP.M.to visit the Sultán, where I had to make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelábí: prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in the womb for years. Went again to Káïd Jelábí, and heard the same disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading the service,when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me, which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me, and the noise greater than on any other day.
Monday, Feb. 1.—Therm. 56°. Before I was up, Hájí Hassan, the Sultán’s tea-maker, was here from the palace with mules to take me to Ben Ibráhím, called the Sultán’s Heart. I found him on the eve of departure; prescribed some medicines; gave directions about his diet. He would make me accept ahaikand asulham, the fabric of Dukálah, of which place he is the Káid. I then went to the Káid of El ’Arabí, who was not so well. From thence to Sídí Mohammed, the Sultán’s father-in-law, who gave Cohen three dollars as a fee. I then went off to the Sultán’s, where I remained two hours to set about making some syrup of violets, which I am to finish to-morrow. I ordered a saddle and bridle, and gave Káid ’Alí half a-dollar a-day to break-in my horse, who is very unmanageable. Have been hard at work all the afternoon in preparing a plaster for the Káid of El ’Arabí’s arm and shoulder. It is a sad business. He is really very bad. But at the palace they will all have physic. Saw the chief eunuch, a very old man; had lots of fun with him. I shall have to examine the second eunuch to-morrow. I was asked to look at the gate-keeper’s foot: it was in a state of mortification. The cold in the[52]I have refused to attempt to touch, and have made many enemies by it; but I have some little character to lose. Every body here is sadly dispirited by the fall of Tlemsán.[53]How I contrive to stand all this work I know not. I am extremely anxious to be off again.
Tuesday, Feb. 2.—Saw to-day more of the city than ever; the gunpowder manufactory, and the leather-dressing. The powder is made in the open air. Within four large mounds of earth, all kinds of offal, the carcases of camels, dogs, &c. are left to putrify, for the purpose of yielding the nitre. Their process is a very simple one, and the powder not bad. Some of the fair sex look very comely in the street. My soldiers got a dollar a-piece for carrying the medicine. Went after Adáj to see Sádik, Abú’s namesake. Such a set of beasts I have never seen as I met at his house: he would have me take asulhamfrom him, which I gave to Cohen. Saw lots of the fair sex, and one poor devil of a renegade, for whom, however, I could do nothing but give him somepezetas. Went to the palace, where I found many patients. One of the Sultán’s children was sent to me with a message from its mother; but I will not prescribe without seeing her. I remained at the palace four hours, working at a syrup of violets and preparing things for the Sultán. Was asked to eat and drink, but refused every thing, except water. When I returned home three different cargoes of food were sent; but I have been worked too much to have any appetite. Thank heaven, many of the Sultán’s friends are going away. For some days past I have been compelled to neglect the poor Jews.
Wednesday, Feb. 3.—Therm. 57°. Went early to Adáj. Not so well.Pilula et haustus.[54]Returned home, and found a greater crowd than ever; mostly women. The story of the dead child was repeated by some dozen of them. A very pretty creature from Tangier was afflicted with a strange complaint. My examination of the women is a bitter pill for the Moors; the women, however, are highly delighted. I am much puzzled with the pretty Jewess and her husband; it is the seventh year of her marriage, and he can put her away if she has no child. I gave them each something to take: it satisfies them and can do no harm; and I have buoyed up the man with hopes, although, by all accounts, the fault lies with him. Too tired to write my letters, which is the moreprovoking, as couriers are going daily: have seen above sixty patients to-day. My own health, I find, is suffering from having too much to think of; I hope, however, that I have done some good. The case, or rather the result of the diagnostic by the egg and blood is obtained by the process following:—take an egg laid on a Thursday, write upon itüϋ 99̂9[Symbol]oo 8999 ξχρσγ[55]ta a; put the egg in the moon and dew; break it in the morning: if you find blood in it, the patient will die; if no blood, he will recover; and if he does, he must write upon the ceiling a verse of the Korán, which is not to be carved previously, nor is he to use any light to write it by, &c.
Thursday, Feb. 4.—Therm. 54°. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed, than most of my patients; suffering from want of rest: am pestered with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary complaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions; returned home, too ill to sleep.
Friday, Feb. 5.—Therm. 52°. Much rain during the night. Adaj getting well: I am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the Sultán. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have sent to ask permission to see the Sultán to-morrow.
Saturday, Feb. 6.—Therm. 57°. Found the bashaw so much better, that I sent to Ben Alí to request an interview, in the hope of being able to get away next week; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint, and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw two Jews’ weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years old. Received a letter from Mr. Willshire.
Sunday, Feb. 7.—Therm. 50°. Felt too ill to go to Adaj. Cohen brought good accounts. Read the prayers, and afterwards went to the palace. Saw theBó-áb, who will die; had some differences with the Sheríf, and sent a message to the Sultán: saw Sídí Ben Alí, who promised to pay me a visit this evening, but as he did not come, I took a light dinner at 7, afterwards wrote some letters, and retired early torest. Very cold. To a message from the Sultán, requiring to know if I had every thing I wanted, I sent an answer in writing.
Monday, Feb. 8.—Therm. 54°. Went to Jelábí; saw a few patients. Felt by no means well; returned home, when I received the two decalogues[56]for the head and arm; three turns above the elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten commandments; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes of getting a Saffir.[57]I feel very desirous to be off: received letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines[58].
Tuesday, Feb. 9.—Therm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley ’Abḍ el Wáḥed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags; but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said, “If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as we have no watch—no anything.” I promised to send them a bottle, and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup was brought, all that remainedfor the use of the party. This was the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene; the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words “God will reward you,” were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went in the evening to the Jew’s wedding: first to the house of the bride’s father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house, preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting; all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this way she was led to the Sók, where the friends of her husband claimed her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it; the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine, he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom; he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month; and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.
Wednesday, Feb. 10.—Therm. 56°. Visited Adáj, who is doing well; and then went to the káïd Sídí Mohamed Ben el ’Arabí Assoon or Rhabah: he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there some time; afterwards I visited Múlláï ’Abḍ el Wáḥed, who was better, but still very ill. Returned home; went afterwards to the palace, where I saw Jelábí and the old eunuch, who shewed me the bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound: there were about one hundredof them. A remarkably fine and young Towáshí[59]has become a patient. The court-yard of the palace presented a strange appearance to-day: there was a young lion as playful as a dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of acoup de soleil: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelábí, and saw the little black.[60]Began making my preparations for departure, as I hope to be off next week.
Thursday, Feb. 11.—Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At elevenA.M.it stood at 97°. At threeP.M.the heat rather oppressive; and yet there is a fine view from the garden of the snow-crowned Atlas. At sixP.M.the Therm. was 60°: at nineP.M.it had sunk to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed’s: found her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be soothed by my visits, I go there most willingly. Her blessing to-day was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich; they can perform immense journeys; they are fed only once in three days; I had this from the mouth of the groom; its allowance is a large jar of camel’s milk every third day; its colour was iron-grey, with rather heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The groom was highly gratified with the notice I took of it. Returned home, and found the Káïd’stáleb[61]waiting for me. I am heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail, while patients are on the increase. Abú was sent for by the chief eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself: but I must bear with it. Poor fellow! he is more helpless than ever. I could not have got on at all without Cohen, who is most attentive: he has received some very promising offers, if he will settle here as a doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I think I should be able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy: it is true that he is never tipsy, but no man can stand what he takes for any length of time. Had astriped wild boar brought, to see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwá: the heat is too great for me, under the excitement I suffer from overworking. I told him to ask permission for us to depart: I doubt it will not be granted on the first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find that medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even upon women: three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions.
Friday, Feb. 12.—From the variation of temperature yesterday, I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At fiveA.M.it stood at 42°; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44°; at eight it got up to 48°; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose to 80°; at ten it was 91°; at eleven it had sunk to 90°, but rose again at noon to 91°; at oneP.M.it was 94°; at two it had reached 102°, but at three it sunk to 80; at four to 73°; and at five to 69°; giving a variation of 62°, and a mean temperature of 74°, during twelve hours; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that five cannot be pronounced before the Sultán: one must say four and one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put up his hand, and pronounced the wordkamsa(five), which prevents the effects of the evil eye: for a similar purpose the Jews place a hand over the doors of their houses. Went to Adáj to take leave: I saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong; and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and yet I wished to know what he intended to give: found, on my coming home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and means to return it this evening. Went to káïd Jelábí; dressed his hand; thence to ’Abḍ el Wáḥed’s; found the good woman much worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw turnips: I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sídí Ben Alí, to saythat I must go away, else my health would suffer. The worst of these people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only a few minutes, they take as many hours about it: besides, the system of giving presents from the Sultán downwards has a bad effect. But as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of presents: they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea.
Saturday, Feb. 13.—Therm. at each hour from 7A.M.toP.M., both inclusive, stood as follows:—56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°. 91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace and at Jelábís. Began to prepare stocks. Saw Sídí Ben Alí, and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the money to Adáj; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Alí. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultánah’s dresses. He has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I may as well get a dress[62]for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day: there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl): he is a curious specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.
Sunday, Feb. 14.—Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so great. Went and took leave of Adáj: found him in a great rage; he had been beating his women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received a visit from the minister; read prayers, and then went out on the terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. The mountain range presented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined early, that I might go to Sídí Ben Alí in the evening. Every thing is now arranged: I intend sending a part of the baggage direct to Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday.Inshá-llah.
Monday, Feb. 15.—Therm. 47°; rose to 99° at 1P.M., then fell to 60° at 6P.M.Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room:refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not; there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find that I have offended the Shereéff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from Teródánt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.
Tuesday, Feb. 16.—Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the baggage; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the Káïd were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and handkerchiefs from the Sultán: went to the palace. Find it does not do to have one’s servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends: I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from the Sultán, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly disappointed with my spurs,[63]bit, and buckles. I expect a little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Alí and myself have made a bet against my return. Saw old Hijází basking in the sun, had a long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six o’clock, and themules are not yet ready: they are now killing the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.
Wednesday, Feb. 17.—Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultán’s, and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Máníyah, where I had my audience of leave: this is by far the most beautiful spot here. I had a row with the Sheïkh. Sent off my last present of dates and brandy—a token of sweetness and of my parting in the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away: at last, I left at oneP.M.the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers, and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After crossing the river Tensift, the Wád Zitt, and the Wád Aghmát, we came to adouar, where we slept, having received a good monah. The situation was splendid.
Thursday, Feb. 18.—Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Káïd Ibráhím, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at was Trasermoot,[64]where I learned that a tax had been levied for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths, and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position—in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews—here called the sons of Yehúdi: they are a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music, and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought here several things. A great squabble took place, when the Sheïkh Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have each a berber-master. I have almost a mind togo back to Marocco to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is.........feet.[65]I have determined to make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing Waríkah.
Friday, Feb. 19.—The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts about the city: it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very rudely formed. I could learn nothing in the way of tradition. The Jews here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them the tradition I had heard respecting them, they said, “It is true, and we have it so.” They have no certain knowledge of the time when they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found probably at Tafilelt; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells, and planted seventy-two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined in the last sentence—“Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord.” I went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man! I got up, and went to the Sheïkh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have now to write to Abd-Salám to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I wish I could always get the pure pronunciation and etymology of the names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah, as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),[66]the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is in realitytras(head), andermoot(valley). At noon we started, accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people, and a pile of something, which turned out to be my dinner. It had been cooked on the spot: no four persons could have carried it:I could not eat a mouthful; but the soldiers played their parts in high style, and to their heart’s content. Our road then became most beautiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We were now joined by another party. I had chosen this road, rather than return to Káïd Abd-Salám, who had sent to say he would give me an escort of sixty horse: but I fell from the frying-pan into the fire. We arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse’s mane: I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river, where we were met by a Sheïkh, with two Shilḥahs[67]on foot, who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine; and on descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at, and waiting for, me; while some twenty more were on the large stones on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by the Sheïkh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the level he went forward some little distance; then wheeling suddenly his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing it would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I had never seen: this made my own horse nearly mad. The whole then commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain called Gulgál. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like an English farm, we got into the district of Waríkah, where we had more firing. Arriving at the house of the Káïd, I tried to walk, but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis who escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some books connected with this tradition, but they will not shew them, nor can they go withme to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.[68]Over the mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco, where dwell, say the Jews here, those who escaped from Nebuchadnezzar, from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is, however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place whose name is Kibla. In Waríkah there are sixty heads of families, and some of thedouars[69]are more numerous. At Trasermoot every Jew has his master; but here they have only one. On the mountain there are two; in other places there are three; and so on. The annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family; but they have to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultán’s name: they are the most intelligent I have met with.
Saturday, Feb. 20.—Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some specimens,[70]and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We arrived here at twoP.M.The Káïd came out to meet us with twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve miles from Waríkah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,[71]and Marocco now bears N.W.[72]We saw many traces of the wild boar. The Shulúh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands: I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite, generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.
Sunday, Feb. 21.—Therm. 47°. The Sheïkh’s brother was brought tome: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque: the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs, and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get off till half-past nineA.M.We crossed the river, and after losing our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful, but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I picked up many curious specimens. At threeP.M.we crossed the river Nefísah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arján, where we saw the women’s heads dressed fantastically with flowers, and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach Almishmish[73]till just before dark. The Sheïkh Sídí Mohamed Ben Aḥmed is a great Káïd, who sent us lots of presents. This, which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must remain here the whole of to-morrow.
Monday, Feb. 22.—Therm. 50°. There was a little rain during the night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country, which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the Káïd in his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents, and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest, there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had finished, the fellow did not even say ‘thank you.’ Many of the ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and they are miserableunless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must, however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my patients. Long—very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The Káïd’s brother, and one Hají Hámed,[74]are great drunkards; the man’s wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well dispense with. Returned home about eleven,P.M.; it was very cold.