Monday, June 27.—Therm. 86°. The heat has become very oppressive. An express has arrived from Taghakánth, with a report that the place has been attacked by the Ergebáts, who mustered nine hundred men; while the Taghakánths, who were taken by surprise, could bring together only three hundred to meet the enemy: these, however, were sufficient to defeat their assailants, after killing ninety of them, with a very trifling loss on their own part. This is bad news for me, as we shall assuredly be attacked when passing the district of the Ergebáts. The Damánís have set off in haste for their place. Hájí Majíbí has returned; he is brought down considerably, and came in a very humble manner to pay his respects: he is a consummate scoundrel. Had a visit from Mas’úd, who wished to give me a Tumbuktú quilt; but I can take no presents, and he left me in dudgeon at my refusal. I dislike this man more and more. Things are at last in a train; but I had a threatenerthis morning, having nearly fallen two or three times, in consequence of the great heat and excitement, and the immoderate use of tobacco. I shall try to leave off the pipe, and begin reducing the quantity of fluid. Very weak tea and water have been my only drink for more than three months; and I must now leave off the tea. Attended the unpacking of the ivory: some of the teeth are immense. Abú tells me, that I shall see some as large rotting on dunghills; that the people about Kong live entirely upon elephants, and are constantly employed in hunting them. The small tusks are used for music; but from the want of means of transport, the large ones are thrown away. Hámed has just been here to take leave: he is a most grateful creature, and promises that wherever I meet any people of his tribe, they will respect Ján and Yaghá. He then said he had one more favour to ask: I had cured him, and had given him too many things; but as he knew I could do any thing, “I love,” said he, “the daughter of the brother of my father; she is the prettiest woman in our tribe; I am dying for her; but she does not love me, although I am the Sheïkh’s son, and shall be the Sheïkh myself; give me such a charm, as shall force her to love me.” It was in vain that I told him, I had no love-charm. He said that I had given one to the son of the Sheïkh of Dar’ah, and that his wife had come back to him. I had then to make up a story that I must see the lady, and, as she is unmarried, fold the charm, while she looked on. This he is convinced will prove effectual; and when I get to Taghakánth I am to make him happy. I don’t know what he has promised to do for me. My two guides remain here to make the necessary arrangements about our start. I have been asked, if I will fight, should we be attacked, and have had to give a specimen of my ability to use a sword and pistols. My powder and ball, and every thing else was approved of, and I am promised that all will be well; but that I must make up my mind to some suffering; that they will carry extra water for me, but one Samúm[112]may drink it all up. The die is cast, and I must run the hazard.
Tuesday, June 28.—Mekkí died yesterday. This is the first deathsince I have been here; and even this man might have been saved, had he followed my advice. A large arrival of poor female slaves: I was astonished at their spirits, especially when I saw the parting of two sisters; they certainly have not the same feelings as the whites. I am sorry to admit a point, which I have often strongly contested. During the evening I was taken very ill, and compelled to lie down.
Wednesday, June 29.—Therm. 82°. Took calomel, Hunt’s pills, &c., last night. Fainted away this morning, and had a great swimming in the head, but wanted courage to bleed myself. I mean to try what medicines and abstemiousness will do. Was very ill all day: took my carpet to the garden, where I passed a few quiet hours; went early to bed. The heat very oppressive.
Thursday, June 30.—Therm. 82°. Hazy and lowering. This morning another arrival from Taghakánth. A small party from Súdán has likewise been attacked. This last party confirms the news of the attack on Taghakánth, and brings intelligence that many of the Taghakánths have been killed. My room has been stormed by these fresh arrivals. I am sick to death of them, and have been poisoned by their stench. It is impossible to help myself, and the Sheïkh dare not say a word to them. The courier has arrived, and brought most satisfactory letters from Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, Mr. Willshire, &c. Had a party in the evening. All were anxious to see the King’s letter. Being much delighted, I staid up till twoA.M.writing.
Friday, July 1.—Therm. 84°. The Damání crowd is off, and now comes the settling question. I saw at once that extortion was intended; but I cannot get Abú to act or speak with any force. They want two months to prepare. Asked at first 2,300 dollars; after much wrangling they came down to 1,500: this, added to the extravagant sum demanded by the Sheïkh, is more than I can venture to give, without the sanction of Mr. Willshire. I have written to him to know how I am to act. That same villain, Majíbí, who has already robbed me of 320 ducats, is at the bottom of all this. I hold a threat over them, that I have another way open. I now learn, that a report has got abroad of mybeing one of the royal family of England; that I have plenty of money, and that the people of Sús intend making me pay a larger sum for permission to return. We have counted too much on the Sheïkh. This has quite upset me.
Saturday, July 2.—Therm. 84°. Lots of wounded. The trouble I have in persuading these people that all cannot bear the same quantity of medicine, is quite provoking. I have made up some bread-pills to complete the number, where one would require three, and another only two. The Damánís have dropt to one thousand dollars, but I have refused to give an answer till I hear from Mr. Willshire. I sent to inquire about the two Christian Spaniards, who are in the desert. Wrote to Lord Palmerston, at Sheïkh Beïrúk’s request, and to Lord Glenelg, Thom, and G. Dodd. Sat up till day-light, having to dispatch my courier early. Laid down just as the sun was rising.
Sunday, July 3.—Therm. 82°. The Sheïkh came to me as soon as I had laid myself down. He told me that the Damánís were under an idea that I was a person of great consequence, and have large sums at my command; and that they have only to ask and receive. He said that as I should be obliged to pay the one thousand dollars to get on either way, I had better make up my mind to it; that he must admit his own agent had played the rascal, for he had not expended the sum he claims; but as he has received the money from the consul, there is, I fear, little chance of getting any of it back again. Wrote to his Royal Highness, Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, &c. Sent for my double-barrelled pistols, but forgot the spectacles. Sent to Mr. Hay for some knives and other things from Gibraltar. Read the prayers, and took to my carpet early, as I had been up two nights.
Monday, July 4.—Therm. 84°. Symptoms of great heat. Received a large present of Kermesú Nasárá, (fig of the Christians) and the prickly pear, (called Tagharnúp by the Berbers); they came very acceptably: there were also a few half-ripe pears and some apricots; I am afraid of fruit, but ate some of the first. The Damánís are very anxious for my answer. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid tells him, he will makean oath AHAD..................that he will conduct me in safety to Tumbuktú and Jennah, and that he will obtain for me whatever I want from Hámed Libbú. I like this man; but have been so often disappointed, that I have some fear of eventually changing my opinion. He is more frank and open, and more like the man of his word, than any I have seen since I set my foot in Africa. Had great fun with the Taghakánth people, giving them some imitations of character. We are all friends. I was struck with the quiet and happy state of the slaves lately arrived here, who say they would not accept their liberty on condition of having to cross again the desert. This gives me a fearful idea of it; but I will try it.
Tuesday, July 5.—Therm. 84°. The Sheïkh Mohammed Múlid came to make his AHAD oath, that he would protect me, and do all in his power for me. Wrote to Mr. Willshire all particulars (of the information I had received), and likewise told him that Mons. Anthoine D’Abbadie intended to start from Tunis. Four slaves are here from Kóng, who have told Abú that his cousin and school-fellow Kutúk the warrior, is now the king of Kóng, and that his power extends to Ashantí. An Arab from some distance came in to-day with some savage-looking wretches: I was sitting or rather lying on the ground writing: I sent them off in a hurry; but was afterwards told that the Arab was a great Sheïkh, who, having heard of the arrival of a great Christian Sheïkh, had come to pay me a visit. On his return I told him that he ought to have taken off his slippers; he made a fair apology: I then asked him to sit down; when he said that he had heard of a Christian who could tell by a little magic thing, where any place in the world lay; but that he could not believe the story, and had therefore come to ask me about it. I humoured the man, and got out my pocket compass, and told him to question me; when I told him where each place was, and the number of days, which I had already learnt, between any two or more places. He then stated, that he had heard that I walked half the day and half the night, and was never tired. Is that true? said he; to which when I replied in the affirmative, he asked to inspect my feet, and after countingmy toes, he told his companions that I had only five on each foot: he then examined the knee-pan and cried outWáhed aëdá, ‘only one;’ then taking me by the hand, he praised the prophet. From this, as usual, he asked to see every thing, when I had to open boxes, &c., and could hardly get him and his party away: he then asked for a present; a little tobacco did here, but as he is coming again to-morrow, (it will not be so easy to satisfy him). I learnt a good deal from Tayyeb about Tumbuktú; he says that it contains sixteen mosques, of which Sídí ’Alís is the largest; that it takes two hours to go round the city, which now reaches to Kabrah; and that has a village contiguous to it on the north; that in these countries people walk but little: that its markets are now better than those of Jennah; and that people come to it from all quarters. He states also that Lamdo Lillahi[113]stands on the river, whereas the map makes it appear twenty miles to the east. He lived till he was thirteen years old at Tumbuktú, and has been here more than two years: he knows more than most persons of his age; but is a great scamp. His mother is one of Hámed Libbú’s family, and I therefore put up with many of his rogueries. The heat has been very trying to-day.
Wednesday, July 6.—Therm. 84°. At elevenA.M.the town was alarmed by the report that all the Sheïkh’s camels had been stolen. All the people mounted, and set off armed: even the women went out of the town on the road to Agadír, to see what was going on. At twoP.M.most of the people returned: the report was only partially true. A few had been stolen, but the direction they had taken was known. Mohammed Sierra mounted my horse, and with two others went to get a reinforcement on the road. The reports about the great power of the Sheïkh, are all moonshine: it is in reality nothing. During my stay here, I have seen much of the African Arabs; they differ greatly from the Asiatic: they are more wild in their appearance, but far more cultivated: nearly all of them can read, and a great many can write. I have been much pressed about giving my answer as to going on. I must wait one week more; although I fear that the two months will have elapsed from the time of deciding. Am very anxious for the villain Majíbí and his partyto leave me; I cannot bear the sight of that fellow, ever since I was convinced of his roguery. Am in some anxiety about my gold watch, as the Thillahs have stripped the last couriers that passed through Sús. This Majíbí’s villainy is capable of any thing. I gave him a rub this morning, and if I had only protection here, I would give him the stick.
Thursday, July 7.—Therm. 76°. Had a large party to dinner to day, as the Sheïkh had killed a cow. These beasts have come to feast on the entrails, which they prefer to the meat; on being asked what we did with them, I told them to their utter dismay, that we gave them to the common dogs, as well-bred ones would not touch them. Had some of the meat sent me, but it was not very palatable. I received likewise a present of unripe pears; for these people will not permit the fruit to ripen. At oneP.M.about thirty of the tribe of Assereit Terjmert arrived here: they are worse than any I have seen as yet: had a row with them. The Sheïkh and all his people, who are evidently afraid of being asked for something by all new-comers, slink away, and leave me alone with every fresh batch of vagabonds: I told them my mind as well as I could, and then scolded them in English. At night the Aboudah Ich Saabi came, as it was expected, on a conference relative to this quarrel; but as it turned out, they only came to gorge: a cow is not killed every day. There is a report, that two hundred horse will be here to-morrow, with what truth, time will show. Am happy to hear that the beasts from Mogador are to go back on Monday next.
Friday, July 8.—Therm. 82°. Felt poorly all day.Dies non.
Saturday, July 9.—Therm. 82°. All are busy to-day in preparing for the káfilah, which is to start for Suweïrah on Monday. Feel far from well. Went to the medicine chest: but find that the least dose disagrees with me. Renewed rumours of wars. The Damánís are anxious for my answer, and I am equally anxious to give one. I know not how things will go on. Am sick of the whole affair, and feel a presentiment that it will be a failure.
Sunday, July 10°.—Therm. 82. Read prayers. The weather is heavy and sultry. This has proved one of the most trying days for theconstitution, as the excessive heat has been succeeded by a very cold wind in the evening, and this followed by a most sultry night. All the people are fully occupied in preparing for the káfilah, which is to start to-morrow morning with ivory, gum, &c.; I find that the ivory sells here at seventy mitcal the canter, while at Mogador it brings sixty dollars: the quantity of it is enormous. Felt very poorly all day, and did not go out.
Monday, July 11.—Therm. 84°. All has been bustle to-day. The káfilah had hardly started, when the two hundred horse arrived. They came to hold a conference about going to war with a neighbouring tribe, as one of the Sheïkh’s friends had been killed by a Marabout of that people: after a long consultation, it was agreed, that as the Marabout wasnon compos, there could be no intention of an insult, and thus instead of a fight we had a feast. The Damánís are preparing to be off, as my answer is expected to-morrow. I fear I must give all the money: it is an anxious time for me. There is a great talk about my long stay, and some of the Shilhah[114]people are not over civil. The Sheïkh, poor man, is desirous to pay me every attention; but he is fearful of enforcing a proper authority over these people. Money is his curse, and he is avarice personified. The heat is excessive.
Tuesday, July 12.—Therm. 84°. The heat is beyond every thing to-day; the sun literally scorches: all are gasping. The slaves are lying about. The Arabs say, that in the Sahrá on such a day, twenty draughts of water would not quench the thirst. It is one of the hot winds. I have been walking for more than two hours to the astonishment of the natives. Evening came, but no post. The heat still tremendous. I have been drinking tea for more than an hour, and am still thirsty. Sent out again respecting the Spanish slaves: hope to get the poor fellows. There has been a slight quarrel between the Sheïkh and his son; but matters are, I suppose, now made up, as the son came to pray in his father’s room. Some ostrich marrow was sent to me to purchase, but I will not buy it without some eggs. Patients are beginning to be troublesome again. I feel myself somewhat better than yesterday.
Wednesday, July 13.—Therm. 86°. Symptoms of summer. Am looking most anxiously for the post. The Damánís have all left, except Mohammed and Hámed, who are waiting for Mr. Willshire’s answer. I gave them a present which cost me thirty-nine ducats: they were highly pleased, and so was the Sheïkh. At threeP.M.the thermometer under the colonnade was at 100°, and though there is a breeze, the sun is scorching. All are done up. As there was no post, I was in very bad spirits, and went early to rest: hope to get a little sleep.
Thursday, July 14.—Therm. 84°. To-day all are done up and out of temper, with the exception of Abú. The heat is excessive; we are all stripped to our shirts. Evening brought a cooling breeze, and this brought back our spirits. I was obliged to lie down early, oozing at every pore. Despite my little food, and the great heat, have picked up most of my lost flesh. Am in great anxiety for the post; it has not arrived to-day; if it does not come to-morrow, I shall suspect something has gone wrong.
Friday, July 15.—Therm. 84°.Dies non. Out of health, spirits and temper. No post.
Saturday, July 16.—Therm. 84°. Felt very poorly; kept my bed. Getting out of all patience, as no post has arrived. Am in great anxiety about my watch and letters from England. All this is owing to the villain Majíbí.
Sunday, July 17.—Therm. 86°. Passed a bad night: was up early and went out to bathe. Read the prayers. Was in hopes of the post arriving at the usual time: disappointed. Sent Abú to the market, who brought nothing I could eat; there was no fruit or vegetables. I cannot manage the kuskusú. Received a present of six bunches of grapes from a poor slave boy, to whom I had given some medicines; he had walked out to meet the people coming to market, and had bought all they had. Sent a present of a loaf of sugar to the beautiful Jewess by Abú, together with three bunches of the grapes, to ask if she could make me a pie; for which there is no name in Arabic. I cannot go to theLeïlá myself, but have been promised something as near to Abú’s directions as she can make it. I would have done it at home, but Abú is a bad cook. As the grapes were very sour, I mashed up two bunches with milk and sugar, and fancied it gooseberry-fool; contrived, however, to make a meal of it; the only one I have had for many days. I intended to take a ride, but the heat was greater than I had ever felt. At twoP.M.the thermometer in the sun was at 141°. It fell one degree at a quarter-past threeP.M.and did not sink below 138° till half-past fiveP.M.I was obliged to cover the stirrups andkummiyahs,[115]and all metal articles, with pieces of háïk: the stirrups were too hot to be handled. The horses and cattle are all suffering; yet there is a strong wind from the N.W., but it is blowing fire. Mohammed tells me that on the E. of the mountains, which shut out this wind, it is impossible to face the hot wind. All here are astonished at my being able to stand it; there is no fear of me; I am living too low to take any harm. My fear is not that my stomach will go, but my head. Still no post. All are in anxiety. A cold current of air is passing over us. At nineP.M.the moon and stars are shooting with a peculiar glare, such as I have often witnessed here after great heat. At tenP.M.the heat returned, and nearly suffocated us. I dread the night—being half destroyed by the vermin. Am very anxious for to-morrow.
Monday, July 18.—Therm. 86°. Rose early and went out. There was more wind than yesterday. It feels cooler, but promises to be a hot day. Conceiving I might be mistaken, while reading “Hints on various Sciences,” p. 166, I took three thermometers, and suspended one six feet from the ground, but exposed to the air and sun, at the distance of six feet from the wall, into which a pole had been driven, from which it hung perpendicularly. At twelve this had reached to 115° Fahrenheit. I then laid a second on a mat, exposed to the sun; and this rose to 138°. The third I placed erect on the box of the thermometer, which rested on the sand, and was propped up by a piece ofstick. This last rose to 126°. After they had been exposed about a quarter of an hour, the three gave the following results:—
At half-past five, the wind freshened again. During the whole of this period the wind was very strong from N.W. to N.N.W., and carried a cambric handkerchief, in which was placed a stone of one pound, at the rate of four knots an hour. The Arabs, who took the greatest interest in any thing that I was doing, wanted to know what I was about, and whether it had any reference to the country. As I always had a story ready to excite their wonder or a laugh, I told them that I expected a letter from England, and I was endeavouring to ascertain how fast the ship was sailing; that the little glasses were to tell me the heat of the sun, and the handkerchief the force of the wind; that if when the sun was so hot, the wind had a certain power; I knew how much greater would be the power of the wind, when the sun was less hot; and by the velocity of the wind, I could tell the rate of the ship’s sailing; the sun and the wind being enemies to each other. Upon this they cried out “Tayyabek Allah:” after this came the usual finale, by my taking some fire from the sun by the burning glass; and what astonished them more than any thing else, was that they could do it themselves as well as I could. At fiveP.M.I received my grape-pie from the Jewess; but it was a sad failure, as it was the third day in which I had gone without a dinner.It is now evident the post has been stopped on purpose. I am in a nest of villains, and know not how to extricate myself. The heat continued of the most distressing kind: at midnight the thermometer was 100°.
Tuesday, July 19.—Therm. 95°. The heat is beyond endurance. No sleep. All are lying down and panting. The long-wished-for post has at last arrived: and this morning every thing was settled for our starting without fail on September 15. All travelling now is quite impossible, as the camels are dying on the route from the north, in consequence of the heat, which is greater than usual. Every body is suffering, and yet they say it is cool here, compared with the temperature on the south side of the mountains. I have nothing on, but what decency requires. The consumption of water is immense.
Wednesday, July 20.—Therm. 95°. The heat is terrific. No sleep, no rest. The stream that passes the Sheïkh’s garden was this morning at 75°. Mashaba (Majíbí) and his gang left us at threeP.M.Went out a little this afternoon, as I felt poorly, and procured some eggs from the Arabs in the tents, but many of them were rotten. I have now had no food for a week. Would give a dollar for a draught of beer. Thirst distressing, and am pouring with perspiration. The walls of the house are cracking with the heat and the ground is distressing to the feet. Wrote to Mr. Willshire. The Damánís are preparing to start to-morrow.
Thursday, July 21.—Therm. 95°. This morning I exposed about a quart of water in a tea-kettle, on the roof of the house, to the action of the sun. The water was brought from a small rill that passes the Sheïkh’s garden, and was 75° when about fifty yards from the spring. At twelve the water in the kettle had risen to 112°; at threeP.M.it was taken away to be used as hot water; this happened a few minutes before I got up to try its temperature. The heat decreased much towards the evening. Have been very poorly all day, and must have recourse to a blue pill at night.
Friday, July 22.—Therm. 82°, and has been lower. This sudden fall of 15° has been felt severely. At no period has the glass reached within15° of what it was yesterday. It has made me quite ill, and unable to go out to a fantasía in the afternoon. A káfilah is now preparing for Suweïrah.
Saturday, July 23.—Therm. 83°. There was a heavy mist early this morning. Thank God, the heat is lessened. The trees and fruit were parched up by the heat of the three last days. The cattle are dying in the roads, and the very slaves suffering. Feel very poorly; and have now starved for a week, and been obliged to go often to the medicine-chest. Had to send to the Jews for brandy to keep me up. I am expecting some fruit to-morrow, and hope to get a fowl also, and make some broth. Obliged to shut up books.
Sunday, July 24.—Therm. 85°. The weather fine and pleasant, and the house quiet. Read the prayers. Received a present of two fine quinces, called here................ Their flavour is exceedingly fine; they came from Tamazert; those that are grown here are not near ripe; the others have a thin yellow rind, and their flavour is like that of ripe raspberries. Being far from well, I did not leave the house. Abú went to market, and bought some eggs, and dispatched Seulïmán to Tamazert to buy more, together with half-a-dozen of fowls; the latter being very dear here, about threepence each. I have agreed to purchase a cow in partnership with Seulïmán, whose child is sick, and wants more milk, &c., than he can get. I am to be supplied with fresh butter every day. The cost of the animal, which has just had a calf, is ten mitcals, about twenty-five shillings. This is a sore subject for the Sheïkh,[117]who has had a quarrel with his women, and they will not supply me. I really pity the man.
Monday, July 25.—Therm. 86°. Felt a little better; but as I was still poorly, kept to the house. No incident.
Tuesday, July 26.—Therm. 78°. Day cold and cloudy. There was a large arrival from Bamara. Felt very poorly to-day; these suddenchanges almost kill me. Got at last a fowl to-day, and ate a little. Complained strongly to the Sheïkh.
Wednesday, July 27.—Therm. 80°. Health improving. There was an addition to our party. Did not go out. House the best place. Had a new dish to-day; stewed quinces and meat: it was not bad, but I had no appetite.
Thursday, July 28.—Therm. 78°. Not so well to-day; kept to the house. In the evening a party from Taghakánth brought intelligence of the war still raging.
Friday, July 29.—Therm. 77°. Day fine; went out a little: am much better, thank God.
Saturday, July 30.—Therm. 75°. The night has been cool, and very pleasant. Went out a little this morning: towards the middle of the day the heat returned with great power. A simúm is blowing in the desert; we are all covered with dust, and the houses are perfectly obscured. I tried the water again to-day: a quart was exposed from one to threeP.M.in a tea-pot, on the top of the house; it rose to 112°; at fourP.M.it had reached 125°, when it came into service, being half-boiled, to fill up the tea-kettle. We are to have three or four oppressive days again. Spirits very low. Took a half pint of the Jews’ brandy, having a very cholera-feel.
Sunday, July 31.—Therm. 80°. Passed a very bad night. Walked out a little. Read the prayers, and mean to fast to-day. In the afternoon we felt the simúm again, and the night was oppressive in the extreme.
Monday, Aug. 1.—Therm. 86°. The whole horizon buried in a cloud of dust. The mountains to the S. and S.E. were not visible; the cattle exhibit a disinclination to go to their pastures. We are to have a sweltering day, by all appearance. We are looking out for the post, which, we suppose, was stopt yesterday by the excessive heat, and will not now reach us before to-morrow. Felt very poorly this evening.
Tuesday, Aug. 2.—Therm. 80°. Very poorly, and kept to the house.
Wednesday, Aug. 3.—Therm. 75°. Much cooler. There is a strongbreeze, but the dust still comes from the desert. For the three last nights we have been annoyed with the jackalls, who have been driven in from the Sahrá. Felt a little better to-day, and went out for an hour. No appetite. This confinement is very sad. Received large presents of unripe fruit. These people will leave nothing to ripen; they are perfect hogs. A host of jackalls have made their appearance. Gave Abú a lesson in medicine; made him number the bottles in the chest, for fear of being too ill to go to it myself, and he should poison me. We have some misgivings about the post, which is three days behind its time. Persons have been dispatched to look after the postman.
Thursday, Aug. 4.—Therm. 76°. A high wind, with dust, which nearly blinded us all. Feel rather better to-day. Still no post, and all in anxiety.
Friday, Aug. 5.—Therm. 76°. Weather much pleasanter. The night cool, and not so many vermin. Received a fine present of grapes. This evening the post came in, but brought no letters. The Sheïkh is in a great rage about a letter, which that rascal, Majíbí, has written; who now that he has been blown upon, is trying to make mischief. Affairs are rather ticklish. I have a hard game to play to keep all matters right. There is some unpleasant talk about the length of my stay, and some not very pleasing hints to the Sheïkh about his treatment of me. I have tried to put every thing in a correct light.
Saturday, Aug. 6.—Therm. 78°. Fine day. Feel somewhat better. There has been another fight between the Jews about my food and washing. I fear the Sheïkh leans to the scoundrel, whose wife is more free-looking than Fehedia, whom he cannot seduce: the case is to be heard to-morrow.
Sunday, Aug. 7.—Therm. 76°. Early this morning Sídí Mohammed El Fakír arrived from Suweïrah, bringing me a letter, together with tea, sugar, and coffee, from Mr. Willshire, and a present of fruit from himself. By the letter I learnt that the Sheïkh had written to Mr. Willshire for the money for the journey, which the Sheïkh said he had paid the Damánís. I do not, nor does Mr. Willshire, like this payingbefore hand. Had a large party at breakfast; there was one Múléï ’Alí, and some hogs of Berbers. Read the prayers, and prepared to catch the Sheïkh. He promises to give me an acknowledgment, that I shall have nothing to pay on my arrival at Tumbuktú, and that all shall be right. There are no signs of my tent coming back. Sídí Mohammed, who is anxious that I should not go on, brought his son, the only really learned man here, who is to write privately to Mr. Willshire, should any thing happen to me. I am more than ever pleased with the Fakír, and feel great satisfaction in having a person who can communicate, if necessary, with Suweïrah, unknown to the Sheïkh. I am not over easy that all is quite safe: these are a thankless people, and are now very angry that I have complained so much of the bad treatment I have experienced. I shall make friends with this young man, and try what can be done through him, in case of need. Feel much better to-day.
Monday, Aug. 8.—Therm. 78°. The house is full of visitors again, and my pest, the Sheïkh Hammó, has returned. Abú was puzzled to-day in some questions about Hájí Majíbí. Gave him a lesson to-night; but he is a very dull scholar: he has no idea of position,[118]nor can I make him understand the drawing of the ka’bah. Some mischief is at work from that rascal, Majíbí, who has gone back to Suweïrah. I will catch him yet. Feel better to-day, and am beginning to be myself again.
Tuesday, Aug. 9.—Therm. 78°. Up early, and out to breakfast. The post arrived with letters from Mr. Willshire, who says that he has sent half the money for the journey; but that no pesetas were to be procured, and therefore the remaining half would be sent by Hájí ’Abíb, whom Mr. W. insists upon coming here to see me off—an event which now seems doubtful. I do not like this payment of all the money before hand, as I may be left on the road, although I have great faith in the Damánís. I had some high words with the Sheïkh. His people owe Mr. Willshire five thousand dollars, and would not take a creditfor the one thousand. My good opinion of the Sheïkh all oozing away. He is a beastly miser. Wrote to Mr. W. Felt done up again by this business.
Wednesday, Aug. 10.—Therm. 66°. The night was so cold, that I had to get up, and put on some clothes; and this morning the glass shews a fall of 10°. Felt this change very sensibly, and the more so as I have been out of temper since yesterday’s row with the Sheïkh. As there were symptoms of heat, I tried the thermometer, and found that it stood
I feel rather uneasy about the arrangements. Heard of a party going to Tumbuktú in ten days. I have been told not to pay all the money before hand. Am determined to speak again to the Sheïkh, even if I am to give up the thing. All parties here are agreed as to my having been ill treated. I fear this man is now bent on plunder. I mean to dispatch a courier privately to Mr. Willshire to-morrow. I cannot allow myself to be robbed with impunity. My treatment is now as bad as ever, and if the money be once paid, I shall never get on.
Thursday, Aug. 11.—Therm. 70°. It begins to feel very cold. All the people have taken to their Sulhams. A man was shot through the ankle, and they came to me for some camphor, their sovereign remedy. I told them that all mine was gone, and desired them to go to Mes’úd. This strange fellow was born a Jew, and is now a Muselmán. He is much looked up to. He too said that all his camphor was gone; but was sure that I had some; for he had seen a great many Jinns[119]about at this place, and one or two big ones at Agader, where I go sometimes, and he was sure that they came for my camphor; that they stole a great deal of his, and were very fond of it, and would come a long way to get it. Finding, however, the applicant, who was the father of the boy,to be greatly distressed for the want of the camphor, I give him a little and some plasters. Mes’úd told him how to tie it up, and Abú had to write a charm to keep away the Jinns, and prevent them attacking the boy on the road, which Mes’úd said they would be sure to do unless he took the spell with him. Abú wrote two extra charms for the Táleb, on the condition that he would shew me his book of magic to-morrow.
Friday, Aug. 12.—Therm. 70°. Had a great row with the Sheïkh, who has over-shot the mark; I fear we shall quarrel yet, and the thing fail entirely. Got the book on magic, but had to pay a mithkál for looking at it.
Saturday, Aug. 13.—Therm. 70°. Weather cloudy and wind cold. Towards noon, I had a great row with Sídí Salám, and threatened to leave the house; I have frightened them a little, but made myself ill again.
Sunday, Aug. 14.—Therm. 63°. It feels quite cold; I have taken to clothe again. The people are preparing to go to the Múlíd at Muwah, which takes place on Wednesday. Read the prayers. A sand wind from the desert, which nearly blinded us: at fiveP.M.the glare was so vivid as to distress the eyes; one could see the doors of the houses, and the faces of all the people in the Sók. It had also the effect of the mirage in giving a gigantic appearance to all persons; we could distinguish even the tracks on the mountains, which were some miles distant: it lasted above an hour. A Jew lad, who has been in the habit of bringing me food, came with his schoolmaster, the Rabbi, to take leave; he can repeat the whole of the Pentateuch, although he is unable to read a letter: his schoolmaster told me he had been teaching him to be a tradesman, not a scholar. The lad got a dollar from me to pay his expenses on the road. The Sheïkh is not yet returned.
Monday, Aug. 15.—Therm. 72°. Wind strong. A large káfilah is starting for Suweïrah. The Sheïkh is to come back this evening. I am sick at heart. Fasted to-day, partly out of spite to these people, and partly by way of medicine.
Tuesday, Aug. 16.—Therm. 72°. This was rather an interesting morning. The Arabs who are about to return to the Sahrá, came for the Mazkát Allah. This is a kind of tithe given of the barley, only to those people whose land will not produce any, and whose occupation as guides to the káfilahs prevent them from tilling the ground. It is not however the unjust tithe on the industry and capital of the English farmer; but is a tenth of the actual increase—in the scriptural meaning. The seed-corn is deducted, together with the quantity requisite for the wages of the labourers, and the cost of tillage, and gathering the produce; of which one tenth of the actual increase is given. There was a great variety of character (deportment), and a blessing was given to, and by each person as he came for and went away with his share. In this manner they obtain corn enough for nearly all their wants. A few presents were brought for the Sheïkh, who I could see, gave grudgingly, and in return asked very anxiously, if they wanted to buy any thing. I had a great row with Sheïkh Hammód, and nearly came to blows. This fellow is the greatest hog I have ever seen. I am very anxious to hear again from Suweïrah; had Kádí ’Alí been here, I would have left the house this morning. To-day was the ceremony of swearing faith to the Sheïkh, and of protection to the káfilahs to and from Wad Nún. Portions of the Koran were read; the Ahdah[120]taken, and faith pledged, accompanied by the ceremony of stepping over a stone. I have frightened the Sheïkh, and I hope to some purpose: but matters are hard to arrange.
Wednesday, Aug. 17.—Therm. 74. These Arabs of the Sahrá are certainly the men in Belzoni’s tomb, with their curls standing out, and dresses close to their necks, and feathers in their heads; none of them ever wear turbans. Some have a string of pearls (islik); some a cord; but the generality are content with their thick woolly curls, that make the head look like a mop, or the hair upon a poodle dog. They are a slim race, but very hardy and courageous. Two large wolves were killed this morning. We are looking out for the post. The wind ishigh, but with the haze over the mountains, the fore-runner of a return of the heat. At elevenA.M.it blew a perfect hurricane. The Simúm[121]felt like the blast of a furnace. The thermometer rose suddenly from eighty-five degrees to ninety-five degrees. The heat was terribly oppressive; we all felt it, and the people were lying about and panting, and all work was suspended. This lasted till oneP.M.and has so heated the air, that there is no moving. The Sheïkh says there will be two or three such days: that we are lucky in not having started; but that the weather will then become settled. This is the approach of their second summer. I have this day had a proper explanation. The Jew has been sent for, and ordered to purchase every thing requisite on pain of banishment, and to bring in a weekly bill of my expenses. The poor fellow at first thought I had been making a complaint; but has gone away quite satisfied. There are symptoms, I am sorry to see, of further detention. At half-past twoP.M.the hurricane returned; when the whole air was loaded with dust that made the sun look red. The thermometer, was, in the sun, one hundred and twenty-one degrees, and at threeP.M.one hundred and twenty-six degrees; in the shade, one hundred degrees and one hundred and one degrees respectively; with a very trying wind, E.S.E. This has been a thirty-drink day. The heat at night was excessive. I am to go to the Jew’s to-morrow withthe Sheïkh. A great change has taken place: I have frightened these people in right earnest, and I am determined to keep the vantage ground.
Thursday, Aug. 18.—Therm. 86°. Very hot outside the door. Went to the Millah with the Sheïkh to breakfast, at the chief Jew’s, Soleïmán. Every thing was very good, indeed, of a rather superior kind: but what a place to live in! We went on foot, the Sheïkh carrying a loaded pistol in one hand, and with the other on his kummiyah.[122]After eating for two hours, the Muselmán party went home to sleep. I remained with the sons and daughters of Israel, who had come to the Millah, which is seldom honoured by a visit from the Sheïkh, and still less frequently to eat there. The Jew’s wife is one of the most beautiful creatures I have ever seen: she is much respected, and possesses some property of her own. The Rabbi, at my request, read the first five chapters of Genesis, and then a portion of Exodus. I hoped to find some other books; but there were onlySepher Kodesh.[123]Returned home, and found a great change for the better in the establishment. The heat was excessive: the thermometer at 101° in the colonnade. The moon looked pale and sickly. At midnight the thermometer stood at 101°: every body was fainting from the oppressiveness of the heat.
Friday, Aug. 19.—Therm. 89°. The heat suffocating: went out a little to accustom myself to it. At twoP.M.the thermometer was at 110° in the shade. This is the second summer here: it lasts for twenty or thirty days. All nature parched up. Kept to the house the greater part of the day.
Saturday, Aug. 20.—Therm. 90°. There has been a difference of twenty degrees between to-day and last Saturday, and of twenty-four degrees between the 10th and 20th of this month. I am regularly steaming. Am going to the Jew’s again: it is their Sabbath feast. Theirolla podridadoes not agree with me very well. It is put into the oven on Friday just before sunset, and remains till it is wanted, stewing from twelve to twenty hours in a river of oil. The day was, however, a change from my imprisonment. The Rabbi read a part ofGenesis. Walked to the Millah, the heat excessive; returned home, and had some pleasant talk with the Sheïkh: was right glad to get away from the smell of the Jews, and from nose-blowing, &c.
Sunday, Aug. 21.—Therm. 88°. Day fine. The hot wind has ceased. Read the prayers, and passed all day in the house with the Greek Testament.
Monday, Aug. 22.—Therm. 76°. A great fall in the glass. Felt very cold in the night; morning cloudy, with appearance of rain in the west. Mohammed Serren brought one of his sahabi[124]for me to prescribe something for him; the poor fellow was very ill, and came with lots of commissions from others; but not being able to explain himself very well, he mounted his horse, and went to some tents in the neighbourhood, and brought me a louse, telling me that the chief of the tribe, a great friend of his, had them all over his body; and that as his skin bred them, he wished to know how he was to get rid of them. He then detailed his own domestic disease. He had the prettiest woman in the tribe for his wife; but she did not like him. He therefore wanted me to give him a charm to compel her to love him. Hearing a rattling of chains below, I went out to inquire the cause of it, and asked if they were intended for an elephant; but received for answer, that they were for the poor devils who had stolen the Sheïkh’s horse: they are to be chained up for God knows how long. The Arab returned for his medicines; and when I was about to give him some directions about his diet, he said it was of no use, for they had but two kinds of food, milk and ’eïsh (barley-bread). There has been a great commotion amongst the Jews. Poor Eïsh Ben Músa came crying to me, having heard that the Sheïkh had made me promise to go and eat at Suleïmán’s, who is a great rascal, and whom I dislike. The beast came, and wanted to explain away his rascality. I find I cannot go there, but fighting follows.
Tuesday, Aug. 23.—Therm. 84°. Walked out. An arrival from the desert here from Suweïrah, but with no news either way. The Jewsare boring me to death. Do not feel very well. Towards night it turned cold.
Wednesday, Aug. 24.—Therm. 72°. Had some talk with the Sheïkh. It appears that all will be ready in about ten days. The place was alarmed this morning by a heavy firing heard in the direction of Eït Bamárah, and it was known how the people of As-sírer had gone out to punish some Harámís[125]in that direction. We went out, but could see nothing: the news was brought by a horse, whose rider is supposed to have been shot. The animal, it was known, would, if he were started, make as hard as he could to the Sheïkh’s stable. All mounted, and were off to the scene of action; it proved, however, a false alarm; no great mischief done; the place in an uproar. All the parties who started afterP.M.are now returning. Weather much cooler.
Thursday, Aug. 25.—Therm. 78°. Day beautiful. The post is arrived at last. More money is asked by the Sheïkh, who now refuses to give me a letter of credit. I fear I am in the hands of a rascal. I have had a bit of a row with him, and have threatened to go back.
Friday, Aug. 26.—Therm. 68°. There has been a fall of ten degrees. This morning the son of Mohammed ’Abád arrived, bringing news that his father will be here in a day or two. This looks like a beginning; although he admits that they will not start for fifteen days of their month equal to eleven of ours. The place is crowded with persons, who have come from the south, who had heard of an attack intended to be made on the town. Am quite sick of my Jew visitors, who, under the pretence of bringing me food, stop here half the day. Hámed tells me to get every thing ready; for as soon as his father arrives, we are to start.
Saturday, Aug. 27.—Therm. 70°. Hámed has let out much of the Sheïkh’s rascality. There is a conference taking place about a war with Bamárah: this is a very anxious time for me. Had my dinner at the Millah, and afterwards went to the synagogue.
Sunday, Aug. 28.—Therm. 70°. The cold was so great last night,that I was forced to have recourse to my háïk. Read the prayers, and kept my room all the day.
Monday, Aug. 29.—Therm. 70°. A party, with about sixty camels, started this morning to wait for me on the confines of the desert. Kept up a long conversation, to the great amusement of the people. There has been a large arrival of Shilhahs, who have again put off our excursion. Cold to-night.
Tuesday, Aug. 30.—Therm. 70°. Some little rain has fallen during the night. The place is swarming with people, partly owing to the war, and partly to the Sók at Hámed Omonsa. A flock of the same kind of green, brown, and red birds, with long beaks, and a shrill note, that are so common on the coast of Arabia Felix, made their appearance here. Wrote to Mr. Wilkinson.
Wednesday, Aug. 31.—Therm. 68°. Went off to the sea, accompanied by the Sheïkh and eleven persons, including two slaves. We travelled very slowly the first hour W. by N., and then three miles due N. In about half an hour arrived at one of the Sheïkh’s houses, having passed the ruins of a town with tombs: then turning S., rode till twelve, when we came to about fifty tents, which were so low, that they were covered by the bushes, nor did I see them till the dogs were on us. The whole plain through which we had ridden, is capable of cultivation. We found in it large flocks of sheep and goats, and herds of camels. At half-past twelve, turned W.S.W., and then S.W., and rode till fourP.M., when we came to a large and powerful spring of salt and bitter water. Here the Sheïkh divided three loaves among the party, and being thirsty, we took a little draught. The sea was distant about one mile, but not visible, as it lay just under Cape Nún. We had crossed the Búkukmán, which was dry, and the Sayyad, which had but little water, and the As-saká, whose water was little and bad: these three, after their junction, form a fine body of water that falls into the sea. We now turned due S., and crossed a chain of hills, and started several herds of gazelles, and came, at sevenP.M., to a large encampment on a fine plain. Poor Abú was knocked up, and was nearfalling twice from his horse. After the tent was pitched, all went to prayers. At nine, the Sheïkh of this, and an adjoining encampment, came to make their feast on the heart, liver, and entrails of the sheep, thrown upon hot charcoal, and then taken off, and wrapped up in the caul and the mesenteric gland, roasted on ramrods, and then handed round; the Sheïkh pushing each piece at the end of the ramrod. At midnight the whole body was brought, and made into kuskusú. I did not eat any thing, but had merely some camel’s milk for drink, and then went to sleep.
Thursday, Sept. 1.—Therm. 64°. Cloudy, and with a mist equal to rain. Up at fiveA.M.to prayers; then came kuskusú. I got a part of one of my loaves: the people of all the tents came to pay their respects, and brought with them lots of vermin. I was greatly annoyed; they are sad savages. The appearance of the place last night was very grand; there were fifty large fires burning, throwing their light upon immense herds of cattle, and on the savage countenances of men and women. Abú was very ill, but would eat. We did not start till oneP.M., as the Sheïkh had some business to transact. We kept along the valley S.S.W. for an hour, and then turning N.W., crossed a chain of mountains, called Abú-l’Asel, from the quantity of honey they produced, the bees hiving in the Euphorbium plant. At sixP.M.we arrived at the large encampment of El Báshá. There are here above one hundred tents, one thousand camels, with sheep, and goats out of number: there are also regular workmen, &c. here, and the encampment has the look of a town. Supper came, as last night, when I took my milk, but ate nothing: then came the story-teller, who gave a genealogical history of the Arabs from the time of Abraham, and of the patriarchs from Noah; then of the Koreïsh; and, lastly, of the Tagakánths, who are certainly the men alluded to in Belzoni’s tomb; they have passed by several names, that of Ansár is the one they held the longest; the story-teller finished with some verses complimentary to the Sheïkh and the Christian. Heimprovisedwith great fluency.
Friday, Sept. 2.—Therm. 70°. We had thunder and rain during thenight. This place is called El Fyeshabd (............). At sevenA.M.we saddled our horses to send them to water; they had none to drink, except from salt springs, for this the third day: the people, however, were unwilling to let them go, and they have therefore sent for water, although not a drop is to be obtained within some miles. While the others were feasting on their kuskusú, I took my milk. There then ensued a long argument about the antiquity of the Ergebat and Tagakánth genealogies, &c. To prevent a quarrel, the bard recited a poem. The people here are undoubtedly a happy race. With a firm conviction in the truth of their religion, and feeling none of the artificial wants of civilized life, they are satisfied with what nature produces, and bear the inconveniences to which they are exposed with resignation. I amused them with some matches, percussion-caps, &c. They then went to prayers, and heard a sermon. The day was hazy and cold towards the evening. We started at sixP.M., and rode an hour and half W. to another encampment; but there was no milk for me, although the same kind of feast for others, which I cannot touch; while the water was worse than would be Harrogate and sea-water mixed together. Of course I could not swallow a mouthful.
Saturday, Sept. 3.—Very cold during the night. Thermometer in tent was 70° at eightA.M.We did not get off till nineA.M.Impossible to keep to the road, as we had to turn every five minutes to visit different encampments. At half-past ten we saw the sea. Turned W. by N. and rode for an hour up the dry bed of a river, of which the people do not even know the name; it is, however, said to have water in it near the sea. We came to three large wells, where there were many flocks watering; they were very salt; but luckily I got some milk for myself. Rode S.S.W. for three hours without the Sheïkh seeming to know where he was going. We took up our position for the night at two wretched tents. There was the usual supper; but I could eat nothing, and was compelled to have recourse to tea, with salt water and dry bread. Hope we are going to turn back, as I find it hard work to travelwithout food. Passed an high sand-hill, and saw many snakes and covies of birds. I have now learnt that we are to be out ten days.
Sunday, Sept. 4.—Therm. 72°. This threatens to be a very hot day. Up at fiveA.M.but did not start till ten, as people were constantly coming to the Sheïkh. Our course was S.S.W. and then W. At half-past twelve we started a very large boar, who gave us a good chase for an hour, when we killed him. His tusks were four inches and a half long, and the upper one six inches in curl; he took four balls to bring him down. We killed likewise a couple of snakes. At half-past two we reached Frou el Wád Draha: this river, and not Akessa, should have been in the map: it has but little water. The tide runs high up; the bed is very salt: this is the place where the Sheïkh wants to have a port, but it is too exposed, the surf great, and the water shallow. We encamped at some tents close by the sea, where I bathed. Begin to feel the want of food. The water was very bad and I could get no milk. Some fishermen had gone out in the morning; we waited for the return of their boat, when I got a fish; the first morsel of food I have had. Could find, however, nothing to drink but salt water. During the day a quarrel arose about killing the boar. The tents were wretched.
Monday, Sept. 5.—Therm. 65°. Cold. Up at five to prayers. Got a draught of milk, and a piece of bread, which is now becoming hard; then went off to the sea, and bathed, and took soundings. Waited two hours on the beach for the Sheïkh and his people, whom I met on the road, when I was returning. Arrived at home, I dried my clothes, which I had washed. Had a visit from all the ladies of the place; they had buttons, beads and needles. I was much distressed at their not having any milk or food that I could eat. It was amusing to witness the pleasure these people feel in having a talk with a Christian. Went down to the sea and saw the boat nearly swamped. My mule got away, and it cost us two hours’ hard work to catch her. The coast to the north all bluff and rocky, to the south sand-hills, and shallow water. After being half-starved, got at length some milk at midnight.