“Since my last letter, I have made three ineffectual attempts at getting on, although I now begin to feel somewhat confident that Sheik Beyrock, with whom I still am, never intended sending me till the end of this month, he being so fully pledged for my safety and due arrival, that fearing the heat and the unsettled, nay warring, state of the tribes, did not choose to run these double additional risks. On the 25th of this month there is, by mutual consent, a general cessation of hostilities, to enable the tribes to attend the great Socco[161]of El Shig, held at ten hours’ ride from this place, and at which the Arabs dispose of the produce of their flocks and tents, and lay in their provisions for the whole year. The armistice lasts for six days, to give time for going and returning, the market occurring on the 28th and 29th. Of this it is intended I should take advantage, and as my people do not purchase anything, but merely come as a cloak and take me off, we shall get full three days’ start, and be nearly out of the reach of danger. I am now going on in a very different style from that mentioned in my last, partly by taunting the Tajacanths as being cowards, and more perhaps by holding out to them the rich harvest they may gain by having the whole market for salt, purchased at Toudeyny, which supplies Soudan, to themselves. Paying, as I am, an enormous sum to go on, and advancing money for the purchase of salt, to be repaid on arrival at Timbuctoo, or, in the event of an accident, to be returned to Sheik Beyrock, who is to replace it in the hands of the Vice-Consul at Mogador, I now take the whole of this portion of the Tajacanths, to the number of two hundred men and six hundred camels. Our arrangement is as follows: On the 25th, when the Sheiks with two hundred camels and sixty men start, as if to visit the Socco, two hundred camels with corn and water will proceed direct to the Sahara; thirty camels will be detached from those accompanying the two Sheiks, and come here for my baggage, which by this, you will say, is no trifle, thepresents I am obliged to carry and the money (the cowries), ten camel-loads of which does not amount to one hundred pounds sterling, being all bulky. After shewing themselves at the Socco, they will join me on the road; we shall proceed to the tents, where we shall arrive on the 28th. A second two hundred camels with sixty men will proceed immediately. We remain two days to pack up our tents and grind zimeta,[162]the food eaten on the road, and carrying nothing with us but my baggage, which will now be divided between fifty and sixty camels, and make all speed to overtake the two former divisions. We shall materially lessen the load of the first, by giving drink and food to our own beasts, and loading those who for three or four days have carried nothing; and in this way push on to the first division, making no stop, with but very short nights, till we arrive at Towdeyny; there all will be loaded with salt, and this will require from eight to ten days. I hope, however, to find Hamed Libboo’s nephew there, and who no sooner hears there will be no regular Cafilá this year than he will be off with the news. I shall join him, provided poor Abou, about whom I have great fears, as you shall presently hear, can bear the journey. All are in great spirits, the people here believing that I have suffered so much on my last trip, from which I returned four days ago, that I have abandoned the idea of going on, and am now only waiting till I see El Shig, and go back to Fez. This is all very good, and I keep up this story: ’tis a very unsavoury one for me, as I cannot make the least preparation in the way of food for the journey, and forty-five days’ hard travelling, and barley and dates ground up together and mixed with milk or water, is but poor food. Meat is given but twice, at Toudeyny and Arowan, at both which places the Cafilas rest. I have had a task of ten days’ hard work on dry bread, and that not the sweetest at the end of the time, and one piece of fish, but am better in health for it, but not much fattened by it. My two first excursions were productive of little information or amusement; not so my last, which was replete with incident, and afforded me both pleasure and information. We started from this place, accompanied by the Sheik, and about a dozen friends and house slaves, under the impression that we could have reached the tents of the Tajacanths, to which, if we got, my things were to have been immediately forwarded. The first day convinced us of the impossibility of this, and not wishing to appear foiled or disappointed, we proceeded to the river Draha,[163]passing a beautiful country as far as scenery, but wholly without drinkable water, and came to the sea where this river empties itself. I had not for some weeks past eaten any of the food cooked in the Sheik’s house, but had been living on some stuff furnished by the Jews residing here: they received orders to prepare a bag of bread for the Christians, with which we started, the Sheik carrying tea and sugar; after a ride of eight hours, we haltedat a very powerful spring of water, but so salt, that neither the Sheik’s horse nor mine would drink, and by a sort of law here, horses are neither allowed food nor water for twelve hours before they commence a journey: four small loaves were divided among the party, and those who liked took a saline draught, not an effervescent one. We remained half an hour, and proceeded, crossing a fine chain of hills, starting many herds of gazelles, and after two hours arrived at a large encampment, where we slept. Tea was made, but of the same water we had passed, and the boiling had far from improved its saltness. The preparation for dinner was too disgusting, and I will spare it you. We started the following day before day-break: the heat being excessive, we were obliged to cover the stirrups, &c. with our haiks.[164]At oneP.M., going S.E., the thermometer was 140°—112° in our tents at night. Reached the wells, and found much cattle, but water salt. Here we got plenty of camels’ milk. Rode till six; halted, and killed two large wolves and many snakes. Off early, and crossed the mountains of Ab-el-Assel,[165]at the foot of which we found Bahra, one of Sheik Beyrock’s sons-in-law, with 1,000 camels. Here I saw much of Arab life—the settlement of points of law, marriages, and divorces. Here the story-teller and the bard divided the night between them. The wild Arab girl danced and sung the praises of the Sheik, and the poor Christian had a ditty composed in his favour. Next day we turned towards the sea; killed some wild boars; at the sea, got some fish;—and turned homewards, taking a different route: but no water except salt. I was ten days on this journey, and travelled, on an average, ten hours a day. Before this reaches you I shall be on my way to Timbuctoo. An express will be sent on my arrival.“Faithfully yours,“John Davidson.”
“Since my last letter, I have made three ineffectual attempts at getting on, although I now begin to feel somewhat confident that Sheik Beyrock, with whom I still am, never intended sending me till the end of this month, he being so fully pledged for my safety and due arrival, that fearing the heat and the unsettled, nay warring, state of the tribes, did not choose to run these double additional risks. On the 25th of this month there is, by mutual consent, a general cessation of hostilities, to enable the tribes to attend the great Socco[161]of El Shig, held at ten hours’ ride from this place, and at which the Arabs dispose of the produce of their flocks and tents, and lay in their provisions for the whole year. The armistice lasts for six days, to give time for going and returning, the market occurring on the 28th and 29th. Of this it is intended I should take advantage, and as my people do not purchase anything, but merely come as a cloak and take me off, we shall get full three days’ start, and be nearly out of the reach of danger. I am now going on in a very different style from that mentioned in my last, partly by taunting the Tajacanths as being cowards, and more perhaps by holding out to them the rich harvest they may gain by having the whole market for salt, purchased at Toudeyny, which supplies Soudan, to themselves. Paying, as I am, an enormous sum to go on, and advancing money for the purchase of salt, to be repaid on arrival at Timbuctoo, or, in the event of an accident, to be returned to Sheik Beyrock, who is to replace it in the hands of the Vice-Consul at Mogador, I now take the whole of this portion of the Tajacanths, to the number of two hundred men and six hundred camels. Our arrangement is as follows: On the 25th, when the Sheiks with two hundred camels and sixty men start, as if to visit the Socco, two hundred camels with corn and water will proceed direct to the Sahara; thirty camels will be detached from those accompanying the two Sheiks, and come here for my baggage, which by this, you will say, is no trifle, thepresents I am obliged to carry and the money (the cowries), ten camel-loads of which does not amount to one hundred pounds sterling, being all bulky. After shewing themselves at the Socco, they will join me on the road; we shall proceed to the tents, where we shall arrive on the 28th. A second two hundred camels with sixty men will proceed immediately. We remain two days to pack up our tents and grind zimeta,[162]the food eaten on the road, and carrying nothing with us but my baggage, which will now be divided between fifty and sixty camels, and make all speed to overtake the two former divisions. We shall materially lessen the load of the first, by giving drink and food to our own beasts, and loading those who for three or four days have carried nothing; and in this way push on to the first division, making no stop, with but very short nights, till we arrive at Towdeyny; there all will be loaded with salt, and this will require from eight to ten days. I hope, however, to find Hamed Libboo’s nephew there, and who no sooner hears there will be no regular Cafilá this year than he will be off with the news. I shall join him, provided poor Abou, about whom I have great fears, as you shall presently hear, can bear the journey. All are in great spirits, the people here believing that I have suffered so much on my last trip, from which I returned four days ago, that I have abandoned the idea of going on, and am now only waiting till I see El Shig, and go back to Fez. This is all very good, and I keep up this story: ’tis a very unsavoury one for me, as I cannot make the least preparation in the way of food for the journey, and forty-five days’ hard travelling, and barley and dates ground up together and mixed with milk or water, is but poor food. Meat is given but twice, at Toudeyny and Arowan, at both which places the Cafilas rest. I have had a task of ten days’ hard work on dry bread, and that not the sweetest at the end of the time, and one piece of fish, but am better in health for it, but not much fattened by it. My two first excursions were productive of little information or amusement; not so my last, which was replete with incident, and afforded me both pleasure and information. We started from this place, accompanied by the Sheik, and about a dozen friends and house slaves, under the impression that we could have reached the tents of the Tajacanths, to which, if we got, my things were to have been immediately forwarded. The first day convinced us of the impossibility of this, and not wishing to appear foiled or disappointed, we proceeded to the river Draha,[163]passing a beautiful country as far as scenery, but wholly without drinkable water, and came to the sea where this river empties itself. I had not for some weeks past eaten any of the food cooked in the Sheik’s house, but had been living on some stuff furnished by the Jews residing here: they received orders to prepare a bag of bread for the Christians, with which we started, the Sheik carrying tea and sugar; after a ride of eight hours, we haltedat a very powerful spring of water, but so salt, that neither the Sheik’s horse nor mine would drink, and by a sort of law here, horses are neither allowed food nor water for twelve hours before they commence a journey: four small loaves were divided among the party, and those who liked took a saline draught, not an effervescent one. We remained half an hour, and proceeded, crossing a fine chain of hills, starting many herds of gazelles, and after two hours arrived at a large encampment, where we slept. Tea was made, but of the same water we had passed, and the boiling had far from improved its saltness. The preparation for dinner was too disgusting, and I will spare it you. We started the following day before day-break: the heat being excessive, we were obliged to cover the stirrups, &c. with our haiks.[164]At oneP.M., going S.E., the thermometer was 140°—112° in our tents at night. Reached the wells, and found much cattle, but water salt. Here we got plenty of camels’ milk. Rode till six; halted, and killed two large wolves and many snakes. Off early, and crossed the mountains of Ab-el-Assel,[165]at the foot of which we found Bahra, one of Sheik Beyrock’s sons-in-law, with 1,000 camels. Here I saw much of Arab life—the settlement of points of law, marriages, and divorces. Here the story-teller and the bard divided the night between them. The wild Arab girl danced and sung the praises of the Sheik, and the poor Christian had a ditty composed in his favour. Next day we turned towards the sea; killed some wild boars; at the sea, got some fish;—and turned homewards, taking a different route: but no water except salt. I was ten days on this journey, and travelled, on an average, ten hours a day. Before this reaches you I shall be on my way to Timbuctoo. An express will be sent on my arrival.
“Faithfully yours,
“John Davidson.”
On the 2d day of November, he says, in addressing Lord Palmerston,—
“Since my letter to your lordship I have visited Sheik Beyrock. The map is but an indifferent guide; there is no such river as the Akassa; it is the Assaka, running near to this place: between this and Glamiz there are two other rivers, not laid down at all, the Boukoukmar and Syad. The point at which Sheik Beyrock wishes to form his port is the mouth of the river Draha (from El Wad Draha),[166]which, according to my reckoning, is 32 miles S.W. of Cape Noon, and should occupy the place marked on the map Akassa.“I fear Sheik Beyrock has far overstated his means, but not at all the capabilities of the country. I am confident much may be done, in a commercial point of view, with these people, but he wants a better port than the Wad Draha—shallow water, heavysurf, and many sand-banks: he has, however, shown much judgment in the selection of his position.“The Wad Draha, rising a little S.W. of Tâfilêlt, runs through the productive districts of Draha and El Harib,[167]passing near to Tatta and Akka, skirting lower Suse, finds its way through the fertile country possessed by the tribes of Errub, Draha, Maraibait, Tajacanth, and Ergebat. These people can furnish large quantities of produce, and could, according to their own account, be great consumers, could they purchase goods on more reasonable terms. These people have in their hands the largest portion of the Soudan trade in gold, gum, ivory, and ostrich feathers; they rear large quantities of wool and skins, and in the districts N. and E. of this, immense quantities of oil, wax, hides, and almonds.”
“Since my letter to your lordship I have visited Sheik Beyrock. The map is but an indifferent guide; there is no such river as the Akassa; it is the Assaka, running near to this place: between this and Glamiz there are two other rivers, not laid down at all, the Boukoukmar and Syad. The point at which Sheik Beyrock wishes to form his port is the mouth of the river Draha (from El Wad Draha),[166]which, according to my reckoning, is 32 miles S.W. of Cape Noon, and should occupy the place marked on the map Akassa.
“I fear Sheik Beyrock has far overstated his means, but not at all the capabilities of the country. I am confident much may be done, in a commercial point of view, with these people, but he wants a better port than the Wad Draha—shallow water, heavysurf, and many sand-banks: he has, however, shown much judgment in the selection of his position.
“The Wad Draha, rising a little S.W. of Tâfilêlt, runs through the productive districts of Draha and El Harib,[167]passing near to Tatta and Akka, skirting lower Suse, finds its way through the fertile country possessed by the tribes of Errub, Draha, Maraibait, Tajacanth, and Ergebat. These people can furnish large quantities of produce, and could, according to their own account, be great consumers, could they purchase goods on more reasonable terms. These people have in their hands the largest portion of the Soudan trade in gold, gum, ivory, and ostrich feathers; they rear large quantities of wool and skins, and in the districts N. and E. of this, immense quantities of oil, wax, hides, and almonds.”
On the 11th of that month, Mr. Vice-Consul Willshire informed the Secretary of the Royal Geographical Society that on the 3d Mr. Davidson, at whose patience and high courage he expresses his astonishment, wrote in spirits at the prospect of leaving a place where he had suffered so many annoyances, vexations, and disappointments:—
“‘Even now,’ he adds, ‘after waiting for the Cafila, which will be immense, near 400 men, and, they say, 2,000 camels, I am not even going with it. I should, by all accounts, as a Christian and a doctor, be worried to death. I go straight from this to Arowan, never touching the Cafila route at all; we shall not see a single tent. There are some wells, known only to two or three of the guides. We take five naggas (she camels) for milk, the five men, and Mohammed El Abd, some zimēta (barley meal). I take the biscuit for Abou and self; each carries a skin of water, to be touched only if the milk fails: thirty days to bring us to Arowan, and five more to Timbuctoo.’“I have made the above extracts to assure you that the arrangements were made, and Mr. Davidson ready to start at a moment’s notice, and that in the course of two or three days I hope to have the pleasure to acquaint you of his having proceeded on his journey. Once away from Wád Nún, and I have every and the fullest confidence of his efforts being crowned with success.“I have the honour to be, Sir,“Your most obedient servant,“Wm. Willshire.”“P.S.—I open this letter to add, I have received a letter from Mr. Davidson, dated Saturday, the 5th inst., who appears in high spirits, and writes,—“‘The start is to be on Monday, although I do not go on that day; everything is now packed up, and placed ready to be put on the camels, with which Abou starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if having sent him on. MohammedEl Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to the distance made by the camels on the first day, we start on horseback, accompanied by Beyrock and about six horsemen, and are to make Yeisst, if possible, in one day. Here I leave the district of Wadnoon. And to this place is three days’ journey for loaded camels. I here leave my horse and mount my camel, and we push on to the tents.’“Mr. Davidson did not start on a sudden, on the 3d inst., as stated to me by a courier, who brought me a letter from him of that date, and which I reported in a letter I had the honour to address to his Majesty’s secretary of state, Viscount Palmerston, on the 8th inst., and which you will oblige me by correcting and making known to his lordship.“Your most obedient servant,“W. W.”
“‘Even now,’ he adds, ‘after waiting for the Cafila, which will be immense, near 400 men, and, they say, 2,000 camels, I am not even going with it. I should, by all accounts, as a Christian and a doctor, be worried to death. I go straight from this to Arowan, never touching the Cafila route at all; we shall not see a single tent. There are some wells, known only to two or three of the guides. We take five naggas (she camels) for milk, the five men, and Mohammed El Abd, some zimēta (barley meal). I take the biscuit for Abou and self; each carries a skin of water, to be touched only if the milk fails: thirty days to bring us to Arowan, and five more to Timbuctoo.’
“I have made the above extracts to assure you that the arrangements were made, and Mr. Davidson ready to start at a moment’s notice, and that in the course of two or three days I hope to have the pleasure to acquaint you of his having proceeded on his journey. Once away from Wád Nún, and I have every and the fullest confidence of his efforts being crowned with success.
“I have the honour to be, Sir,
“Your most obedient servant,
“Wm. Willshire.”
“P.S.—I open this letter to add, I have received a letter from Mr. Davidson, dated Saturday, the 5th inst., who appears in high spirits, and writes,—
“‘The start is to be on Monday, although I do not go on that day; everything is now packed up, and placed ready to be put on the camels, with which Abou starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if having sent him on. MohammedEl Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to the distance made by the camels on the first day, we start on horseback, accompanied by Beyrock and about six horsemen, and are to make Yeisst, if possible, in one day. Here I leave the district of Wadnoon. And to this place is three days’ journey for loaded camels. I here leave my horse and mount my camel, and we push on to the tents.’
“Mr. Davidson did not start on a sudden, on the 3d inst., as stated to me by a courier, who brought me a letter from him of that date, and which I reported in a letter I had the honour to address to his Majesty’s secretary of state, Viscount Palmerston, on the 8th inst., and which you will oblige me by correcting and making known to his lordship.
“Your most obedient servant,
“W. W.”
The following extracts from Mr. Willshire’s letters will give all the intelligence received respecting the sequel of Mr. Davidson’s expedition:—
“Mogadore, 13th Dec.,1836.“Sir,—I had the pleasure on the 28th ultimo of announcing the departure of Mr. Davidson from Wadnoon, on his route to Timbuctoo, and I beg to acquaint you, I have since had the satisfaction to receive a letter from him, dated Yeisst, 15-16th ult., from whence he writes to me,—‘All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning at first-day. I believe also the Cafila will be allowed to proceed, although one mitcal a-head is to be paid by all who pass; we have here above fifty persons, and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain the route I take; this is to depend upon circumstances. But two persons besides Mohammed El Abd accompany us; so that after all the talk of Wadnoon, I am going in my original way, of a party of only five, including Abou and self.’“Yeisst is three days’ journey south of Wadnoon, from Temzirst, (which place Mr. Davidson describes as a beautiful ride of eight hours, and speaks in high terms of the attentions and civilities of Sheik Hammo, who, with a party of twenty horse, accompanied him from Temzirst to Yeisst.) Mr. Davidson remarks,—‘Every step we have taken from Wadnoon we have found the people better, more liberal, more hospitable, and although somewhat savage, having yet a little mildness of character, of which there is none at Wadnoon.’“At the date of the latest letters received from Sheik Beyrock, Mr. Davidson had been gone from Yeisst eighteen days, without there being any intelligence of him, which argues favourably for his safety: the greatest danger being upon the borders of the Desert, where there are many wandering and warlike tribes.“I have reason to believe Mr. Davidson and party have pushed on as fast as possible:the journey was to be done in a very short time, as the camels were only to drink six times; and by not visiting the tents of the Tajacanths, nearly six days’ journey would be saved.“Mr. Davidson, in the concluding paragraph of his letter, writes—‘I am happy to say I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my health; and I beg to assure you I flatter myself with the hope, that the intrepid traveller may pass a merry new-year’s day at the famed city of Timbuctoo—which event I trust to have the high pleasure of announcing to you in about three months, Sheik Mohammed El Abd having promised to be the bearer of a letter, which he is to deliver for me, and say—There is a letter fromYahya Ben Daoud;[168]the Tajacanths have kept their word.’—God grant he may, is the hearty and sincere prayer of, Sir, your most obedient servant,“Wm. Willshire.”“To Capt. Maconochie, R.N.”
“Mogadore, 13th Dec.,1836.
“Sir,—I had the pleasure on the 28th ultimo of announcing the departure of Mr. Davidson from Wadnoon, on his route to Timbuctoo, and I beg to acquaint you, I have since had the satisfaction to receive a letter from him, dated Yeisst, 15-16th ult., from whence he writes to me,—‘All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning at first-day. I believe also the Cafila will be allowed to proceed, although one mitcal a-head is to be paid by all who pass; we have here above fifty persons, and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain the route I take; this is to depend upon circumstances. But two persons besides Mohammed El Abd accompany us; so that after all the talk of Wadnoon, I am going in my original way, of a party of only five, including Abou and self.’
“Yeisst is three days’ journey south of Wadnoon, from Temzirst, (which place Mr. Davidson describes as a beautiful ride of eight hours, and speaks in high terms of the attentions and civilities of Sheik Hammo, who, with a party of twenty horse, accompanied him from Temzirst to Yeisst.) Mr. Davidson remarks,—‘Every step we have taken from Wadnoon we have found the people better, more liberal, more hospitable, and although somewhat savage, having yet a little mildness of character, of which there is none at Wadnoon.’
“At the date of the latest letters received from Sheik Beyrock, Mr. Davidson had been gone from Yeisst eighteen days, without there being any intelligence of him, which argues favourably for his safety: the greatest danger being upon the borders of the Desert, where there are many wandering and warlike tribes.
“I have reason to believe Mr. Davidson and party have pushed on as fast as possible:the journey was to be done in a very short time, as the camels were only to drink six times; and by not visiting the tents of the Tajacanths, nearly six days’ journey would be saved.
“Mr. Davidson, in the concluding paragraph of his letter, writes—‘I am happy to say I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my health; and I beg to assure you I flatter myself with the hope, that the intrepid traveller may pass a merry new-year’s day at the famed city of Timbuctoo—which event I trust to have the high pleasure of announcing to you in about three months, Sheik Mohammed El Abd having promised to be the bearer of a letter, which he is to deliver for me, and say—There is a letter fromYahya Ben Daoud;[168]the Tajacanths have kept their word.’—God grant he may, is the hearty and sincere prayer of, Sir, your most obedient servant,
“Wm. Willshire.”
“To Capt. Maconochie, R.N.”
Translation of a letter from Sheik Beyrock, dated Wadnoon, 1st day of the month Dual Caada[169](answering to the 7th instant), received at Mogadore 13th February, 1837.
“To our friend, Merchant Willshire, English Vice-Consul, salám,[170]&c.“We received your letter by the courier, which we have read and understand, about the news of the Tibbib[171]John Davidson; his death is certain—the Harib met him—death is the lot of all. We had arranged with all the tribes of Arabs who are known to plunder and commit robberies on the road; we had ensured his safety with them. The Tibbib did not leave our house until we had previously received security from Eborria (of the tribe of Idowlet), that he might pass through his district of El Harib; we had no fear, because they are traders, and convey and pass the merchants of Tâfilêlt, and receive hire. El Harib did not gothat routebut to kill him (the Tibbib), and we have heard that the merchants of Tâfilêlt had given money to El Harib to murder him. Tâfilêlt is only distant one or two days’ journey from the usual place of abode of the tribe of El Harib. As to the property of the Tibbib, nothing has found its way to this quarter; but should it, I will send it to you. His property will get to Tâfilêlt, where it will be sold, and you had better write to the Sultan Mulai Abderrahman, to give orders to his Viceroy to seek after his books, writings, and property.“We inform you we have sent a friend to the Tajacanths, ordering a person to be despatched to Timbuctoo, to bring us Abou, who is gone there; and have given the strictest orders for every information and news how it happened, to be sent us.“As to the envy, like that of Wold Isheme[172]and others we have heard of, you know better than any one what money the Tibbib had. The truth of all the news will be known when the horsemen return from the Tajacanths. We will send it to you, and point out to you the spot or place where he (the Tibbib) was met, and the day he was murdered. His death would be first known at Tâfilêlt, from whence it would reach Fas, as many of the El Harib go to that city. We are far off, which is the cause of the intelligence being so long before it reached us. The station of the Tajacanths is twelve days’ journey from this place, and it is three months that no one has come to us from thence, except this news, which came from Yeisst. The money which he (the Tibbib) lent to Mohammed El Abd make yourself easy about it; the day the caravan returns, we will get repaid, and remit it to you.—Inshalla[173]—Salam.”
“To our friend, Merchant Willshire, English Vice-Consul, salám,[170]&c.
“We received your letter by the courier, which we have read and understand, about the news of the Tibbib[171]John Davidson; his death is certain—the Harib met him—death is the lot of all. We had arranged with all the tribes of Arabs who are known to plunder and commit robberies on the road; we had ensured his safety with them. The Tibbib did not leave our house until we had previously received security from Eborria (of the tribe of Idowlet), that he might pass through his district of El Harib; we had no fear, because they are traders, and convey and pass the merchants of Tâfilêlt, and receive hire. El Harib did not gothat routebut to kill him (the Tibbib), and we have heard that the merchants of Tâfilêlt had given money to El Harib to murder him. Tâfilêlt is only distant one or two days’ journey from the usual place of abode of the tribe of El Harib. As to the property of the Tibbib, nothing has found its way to this quarter; but should it, I will send it to you. His property will get to Tâfilêlt, where it will be sold, and you had better write to the Sultan Mulai Abderrahman, to give orders to his Viceroy to seek after his books, writings, and property.
“We inform you we have sent a friend to the Tajacanths, ordering a person to be despatched to Timbuctoo, to bring us Abou, who is gone there; and have given the strictest orders for every information and news how it happened, to be sent us.
“As to the envy, like that of Wold Isheme[172]and others we have heard of, you know better than any one what money the Tibbib had. The truth of all the news will be known when the horsemen return from the Tajacanths. We will send it to you, and point out to you the spot or place where he (the Tibbib) was met, and the day he was murdered. His death would be first known at Tâfilêlt, from whence it would reach Fas, as many of the El Harib go to that city. We are far off, which is the cause of the intelligence being so long before it reached us. The station of the Tajacanths is twelve days’ journey from this place, and it is three months that no one has come to us from thence, except this news, which came from Yeisst. The money which he (the Tibbib) lent to Mohammed El Abd make yourself easy about it; the day the caravan returns, we will get repaid, and remit it to you.—Inshalla[173]—Salam.”
Translation of a letter from Sheik Beyrock, dated Wad Nún, 1st day of Dual Caada, (answering the 7th inst.), received at Mogadore, 13th February, 1837.
“To Sidi Hadge Abibe, salám,[174]&c.“As to what you write about the Tibbib John Davidson, the party of the Harib found (or met) him and killed him, plundering him of all his property, and that of Mohammed El Abd,[175]which he had with him of long-cloths and hamburgas. On the day they killed the Tibbib they seized his companion Abou, and swore to him by the most solemn oath, if he did not show and tell of the property belonging to the Christian, they would take his life, upon which he discovered and told them of everything, which they took and went away with; and the reason why I did not write to you before now, I had doubts of the truth.“How comes it that you listen to the words of Wold Isheme, who writes to the Jew his friend, and tells him the Tibbib had deposited with us the sum you mention in your letter? why did you not answer Willshire on the point, as you saw the money he delivered over to Mohammed El Abd? God be praised, we are known not to be traitors, like Wold Isheme: however, if his companion Abou comes, he will relate all the news with his own mouth.“Be informed we have written to the heads of the Tajacanths, Sidi Mohammed Dumanee, Sidi Mohammed Ben Annish, and Hamed Moolud,[176]to send persons like themselves to bring to us his companion Abou, from wherever he can be found; at all events, if he be alive, you will see him, Inshalla, and if dead, God’s will be done.“The words you report, that we had arranged with the Harib to betray him (the Tibbib), such doings are not our ways, nor could we degrade ourselves to do so; everyone God will reckon with for the words he utters.“For four days we neither ate nor drank, and have sworn by all that is sacred to be revenged. Whenever the Harib are to be found, in their tents or on the road, our tribe shall plunder and kill them.“As regards the property of the Tibbib, if any articles remain in the hands of the Tajacanths, they will reach you. God knows how much we have grieved about him, but, God be praised, we did not leave anything undone for the safety of the Tibbib. We did not think the Harib would turn traitors to any person sent by us. This has been done by the traders of Tâfilêlt, who had bribed the Harib to kill him. God’s will be done: the facts will be known when the two horsemen return, whom we have despatched to Tajacanth, and which will be sent to you.—Peace.”
“To Sidi Hadge Abibe, salám,[174]&c.
“As to what you write about the Tibbib John Davidson, the party of the Harib found (or met) him and killed him, plundering him of all his property, and that of Mohammed El Abd,[175]which he had with him of long-cloths and hamburgas. On the day they killed the Tibbib they seized his companion Abou, and swore to him by the most solemn oath, if he did not show and tell of the property belonging to the Christian, they would take his life, upon which he discovered and told them of everything, which they took and went away with; and the reason why I did not write to you before now, I had doubts of the truth.
“How comes it that you listen to the words of Wold Isheme, who writes to the Jew his friend, and tells him the Tibbib had deposited with us the sum you mention in your letter? why did you not answer Willshire on the point, as you saw the money he delivered over to Mohammed El Abd? God be praised, we are known not to be traitors, like Wold Isheme: however, if his companion Abou comes, he will relate all the news with his own mouth.
“Be informed we have written to the heads of the Tajacanths, Sidi Mohammed Dumanee, Sidi Mohammed Ben Annish, and Hamed Moolud,[176]to send persons like themselves to bring to us his companion Abou, from wherever he can be found; at all events, if he be alive, you will see him, Inshalla, and if dead, God’s will be done.
“The words you report, that we had arranged with the Harib to betray him (the Tibbib), such doings are not our ways, nor could we degrade ourselves to do so; everyone God will reckon with for the words he utters.
“For four days we neither ate nor drank, and have sworn by all that is sacred to be revenged. Whenever the Harib are to be found, in their tents or on the road, our tribe shall plunder and kill them.
“As regards the property of the Tibbib, if any articles remain in the hands of the Tajacanths, they will reach you. God knows how much we have grieved about him, but, God be praised, we did not leave anything undone for the safety of the Tibbib. We did not think the Harib would turn traitors to any person sent by us. This has been done by the traders of Tâfilêlt, who had bribed the Harib to kill him. God’s will be done: the facts will be known when the two horsemen return, whom we have despatched to Tajacanth, and which will be sent to you.—Peace.”
“Mogadore, 14th February,1837.“Sir,—I had the melancholy duty, on the 1st instant, to make you acquainted with the distressing intelligence which had reached me regarding Mr. Davidson. I am grieved at heart to inform you that all the accounts I have received since confirm the melancholy tidings.“The most circumstantial account I have heard, I derived from a Jew trader of the name of Jacob Ben Cohen, who arrived here from Draha on the 2d instant, and reported to me that Mr. Davidson had been robbed on the 29th or 30th of Shaban[177](thirty-two or thirty-three days after Mr. Davidson started from Wadnoon), by the tribes of Idowlet and Ait Atta, in the district of Hameda, four days’ journey from Tatta, who, receiving from Mr. Davidson eight doubloons and one hundred dollars, and a loaded camel, allowed the party, consisting of eighteen persons, to proceed on their route towards Timbuctoo; Wold Hamdan[178]and Eborria, of Idowlet, and Wold Henna and Wold Aboo, of the tribe of Ait Atta,[179]he mentioned as the names of the robbers. My informant stated, that, eight or ten days after, a marauding party of 100 horsemen of the tribe of El Harib, who were returning from plundering a place called Bousbeyah,[180]met Mr. Davidson’s party a little to the south of Egueda, whom they immediately robbed, and shot Mr. Davidson, who received eight balls, and when dead, every one discharged their muskets at his body as ameritorious act. AtEl Mehamdee,[181]a town distant six days from Tatta,[182]where my informant was living, he saw in the possession of the Arabs and Jews various articles which had belonged to Mr. Davidson,which he described, and left no doubt on my mind as to his fate. Among the articles which he had seen, he named a silver watch, a pocket-compass, sword, three books, a box of medicines, Japan tea-caddy, beads, and cowries, all of which hemust have seen, or he could not have described them so correctly as he did. My informant could not give a certain account of the fate of poor Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, but understood he had gone on with the caravan, in which he is partly borne out by the letter received from Sheik Beyrock yesterday.“Other accounts state Mr. Davidson and party were travelling some distance in a parallel route, but rather behind the caravan, which was first met by the party of El Harib, who were disappointed not to find Mr. Davidson,for whom they inquired. The caravan was stopped; and afterwards Mr. Davidson came up, when he was instantly shot. Another report inclines me to believe the Harib at first appeared friendly, and afterwards seized an opportunity treacherously to murder him at a place called Sheh’ Keyah,[183]twenty days’ journey from Wadnoon, and about twenty-seven days distant from Timbuctoo.“I have been much disappointed that the information received by the return of the courier I despatched to Wadnoon with letters to Sheik Beyrock is very meagre and inconclusive. In his letters no allusion is made to the robbery and murder of Mr. Davidson, as having occurred at different places, nor is the account of Jacob Ben Cohen supported in this point by any of the reports which have come to my knowledge, except the one received by my agent from his son at Morocco, which states that Mr. Davidson had been robbed, and afterwards allowed to proceed on his journey. I have no reason to suspect treachery on the part of Sheik Beyrock, although the reports set afloat byWold Ishemeare intended to create such a suspicion. The falsity of the report that Mr. Davidson had deposited a large sum of money with the Sheik is evident.“Considering there was a great probability Abou might have been taken by the tribe of El Harib, and detained as a slave, I directed the Sheik to procure his release, and to send him to me. By the answer he has returned, he appears to believe that Abou had gone on with the caravan, in which case there is not much likelihood of the horsemen despatched from the station of the Tajacanths overtaking it.“I beg to acquaint you I have not yet determined upon what steps to take to collect further information, having only yesterday received the letters from Sheik Beyrock. It is my wish to despatch a Moor to proceed to Draha, to recover if possible everything belonging to Mr. Davidson; the great difficulty is to select a person well acquainted with the country, and in whom every confidence can be placed. I attach considerable value to the notes Mr. Davidson may have made on the route from Wadnoon up to the moment he met his untimely fate. I have in view a Moorish trader who hastravelled in many parts of the Desert, and if I can come to an arrangement with him, I shall despatch him to Draha, with directions to proceed to the very spot; and everything I can do towards elucidating this melancholy affair, be assured, will be done. I mourn for my friend.“I remain, &c.(Signed)“W. Willshire.”“P.S.—I have omitted to state, that by the report of Jacob Ben Cohen, Mr. Davidson met his fate on the 8th day of Ramadan,[184]answering to the 17th or 18th of December last. Sheh Keya, near the southern confines of the district of Eguedee,[185]sixteen days from Tatta, and ten days from Toudeyny.“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
“Mogadore, 14th February,1837.
“Sir,—I had the melancholy duty, on the 1st instant, to make you acquainted with the distressing intelligence which had reached me regarding Mr. Davidson. I am grieved at heart to inform you that all the accounts I have received since confirm the melancholy tidings.
“The most circumstantial account I have heard, I derived from a Jew trader of the name of Jacob Ben Cohen, who arrived here from Draha on the 2d instant, and reported to me that Mr. Davidson had been robbed on the 29th or 30th of Shaban[177](thirty-two or thirty-three days after Mr. Davidson started from Wadnoon), by the tribes of Idowlet and Ait Atta, in the district of Hameda, four days’ journey from Tatta, who, receiving from Mr. Davidson eight doubloons and one hundred dollars, and a loaded camel, allowed the party, consisting of eighteen persons, to proceed on their route towards Timbuctoo; Wold Hamdan[178]and Eborria, of Idowlet, and Wold Henna and Wold Aboo, of the tribe of Ait Atta,[179]he mentioned as the names of the robbers. My informant stated, that, eight or ten days after, a marauding party of 100 horsemen of the tribe of El Harib, who were returning from plundering a place called Bousbeyah,[180]met Mr. Davidson’s party a little to the south of Egueda, whom they immediately robbed, and shot Mr. Davidson, who received eight balls, and when dead, every one discharged their muskets at his body as ameritorious act. AtEl Mehamdee,[181]a town distant six days from Tatta,[182]where my informant was living, he saw in the possession of the Arabs and Jews various articles which had belonged to Mr. Davidson,which he described, and left no doubt on my mind as to his fate. Among the articles which he had seen, he named a silver watch, a pocket-compass, sword, three books, a box of medicines, Japan tea-caddy, beads, and cowries, all of which hemust have seen, or he could not have described them so correctly as he did. My informant could not give a certain account of the fate of poor Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, but understood he had gone on with the caravan, in which he is partly borne out by the letter received from Sheik Beyrock yesterday.
“Other accounts state Mr. Davidson and party were travelling some distance in a parallel route, but rather behind the caravan, which was first met by the party of El Harib, who were disappointed not to find Mr. Davidson,for whom they inquired. The caravan was stopped; and afterwards Mr. Davidson came up, when he was instantly shot. Another report inclines me to believe the Harib at first appeared friendly, and afterwards seized an opportunity treacherously to murder him at a place called Sheh’ Keyah,[183]twenty days’ journey from Wadnoon, and about twenty-seven days distant from Timbuctoo.
“I have been much disappointed that the information received by the return of the courier I despatched to Wadnoon with letters to Sheik Beyrock is very meagre and inconclusive. In his letters no allusion is made to the robbery and murder of Mr. Davidson, as having occurred at different places, nor is the account of Jacob Ben Cohen supported in this point by any of the reports which have come to my knowledge, except the one received by my agent from his son at Morocco, which states that Mr. Davidson had been robbed, and afterwards allowed to proceed on his journey. I have no reason to suspect treachery on the part of Sheik Beyrock, although the reports set afloat byWold Ishemeare intended to create such a suspicion. The falsity of the report that Mr. Davidson had deposited a large sum of money with the Sheik is evident.
“Considering there was a great probability Abou might have been taken by the tribe of El Harib, and detained as a slave, I directed the Sheik to procure his release, and to send him to me. By the answer he has returned, he appears to believe that Abou had gone on with the caravan, in which case there is not much likelihood of the horsemen despatched from the station of the Tajacanths overtaking it.
“I beg to acquaint you I have not yet determined upon what steps to take to collect further information, having only yesterday received the letters from Sheik Beyrock. It is my wish to despatch a Moor to proceed to Draha, to recover if possible everything belonging to Mr. Davidson; the great difficulty is to select a person well acquainted with the country, and in whom every confidence can be placed. I attach considerable value to the notes Mr. Davidson may have made on the route from Wadnoon up to the moment he met his untimely fate. I have in view a Moorish trader who hastravelled in many parts of the Desert, and if I can come to an arrangement with him, I shall despatch him to Draha, with directions to proceed to the very spot; and everything I can do towards elucidating this melancholy affair, be assured, will be done. I mourn for my friend.
“P.S.—I have omitted to state, that by the report of Jacob Ben Cohen, Mr. Davidson met his fate on the 8th day of Ramadan,[184]answering to the 17th or 18th of December last. Sheh Keya, near the southern confines of the district of Eguedee,[185]sixteen days from Tatta, and ten days from Toudeyny.
“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
“Mogadore, March 7,1837.“The answer I have been looking so many days for from Sheik Beyrock, in reply to a long letter I wrote to him, only reached me this morning. In it he gives rather a different version from former reports. At Eguedee, on the 18th day of Ramadan, Mr. Davidson and a party of Tajacanths, twelve in number, were at a watering-place, when a party of seventeen of the tribe of El Harib came up. It is stated, more as a surmise than on certain information, that some of Mr. Davidson’s party having gone to drink, leaving their muskets behind, some of the Harib cut off the party thus divided, when two of them immediately shot Mr. Davidson, and plundered the camels, tearing and destroying all his books and papers. The Tajacanths, who were plundered, and afterwards, with Abou, allowed to proceed on their journey, and are gone on to Timbuctoo, do not appear to have offered any resistance. The Sheik recalls the assertion made in a former letter, that the traders of Tâfilêlt had bribed the Harib to waylay and murder Mr. Davidson.(Signed)“Wm. Willshire.”“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
“Mogadore, March 7,1837.
“The answer I have been looking so many days for from Sheik Beyrock, in reply to a long letter I wrote to him, only reached me this morning. In it he gives rather a different version from former reports. At Eguedee, on the 18th day of Ramadan, Mr. Davidson and a party of Tajacanths, twelve in number, were at a watering-place, when a party of seventeen of the tribe of El Harib came up. It is stated, more as a surmise than on certain information, that some of Mr. Davidson’s party having gone to drink, leaving their muskets behind, some of the Harib cut off the party thus divided, when two of them immediately shot Mr. Davidson, and plundered the camels, tearing and destroying all his books and papers. The Tajacanths, who were plundered, and afterwards, with Abou, allowed to proceed on their journey, and are gone on to Timbuctoo, do not appear to have offered any resistance. The Sheik recalls the assertion made in a former letter, that the traders of Tâfilêlt had bribed the Harib to waylay and murder Mr. Davidson.
“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
“Mogadore, March 14,1837.“Sir,—A trader of Wadnoon, named Sidi Ali Wold Ifkee, with whom Mr. Davidson was on intimate terms during his stay at that place, arrived two days from thence yesterday, called and gave me the following relation of the melancholy fate of that gentleman, which I believe can be depended upon, and is deserving of more credit than any other. The substance is as follows:—“Mr. Davidson and party were first met by some of the tribes of Ilowbet and Ait Atta, who took from him some money, and allowed the party to proceed. The partyreached Swekeya,[186]where they rested to wait for the caravan to come up. On the third day, a party of fifteen, or more, of the tribe of El Harib arrived at the resting-place, and after the usual salutations, inquired of Mohammed El Abd who he was travelling with? when he replied, a shereef, who was going to Gualata[187]on business. After some little conversation, the head of the party of El Harib requested Mohammed El Abd to show him the watering-place, who, leaving his musket behind, and the rest of the Haribsitting down, accompanied him over the sand-hills, and when out of sight, hearing a report of a musket, Mohammed El Abd asked what had been done, when the Harib replied, his party had shot the Christian; he complained bitterly, and said he would rather they had murdered him. It is stated, that when Mohammed El Abd went away, one of the Harib pretended to examine his gun, and seized the opportunity to take aim, and shot Mr. Davidson, who was sitting on the ground a short distance from the party, who immediately began to plunder and seize everything belonging to Mr. Davidson, allowing Mohammed El Abd to keep possession of what property belonged to him, obliging him first to make oath on the Koran. That the caravan was not met by the Harib, but has gone on to Timbuctoo, with which Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, travelled.“Sidi Ali added, that he had reason to believe that the first robbers gave intelligence of Mr. Davidson’s route to the tribe of El Harib; and that had not Mr. Davidson stopped, he would have reached Toudeyny before they could have overtaken him.“I am most sorry to observe, that I do not entertain a hope of receiving further or more correct particulars regarding the fate of Mr. Davidson than what I have communicated. He was aware of the perils and dangers of the journey; nothing could shake his determination, and his valuable life has paid the forfeit; but his name will be handed down to posterity, as one of the many victims who have nobly fallen in the cause of science.“I am, &c.(Signed)“Wm. Willshire.”“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
“Mogadore, March 14,1837.
“Sir,—A trader of Wadnoon, named Sidi Ali Wold Ifkee, with whom Mr. Davidson was on intimate terms during his stay at that place, arrived two days from thence yesterday, called and gave me the following relation of the melancholy fate of that gentleman, which I believe can be depended upon, and is deserving of more credit than any other. The substance is as follows:—
“Mr. Davidson and party were first met by some of the tribes of Ilowbet and Ait Atta, who took from him some money, and allowed the party to proceed. The partyreached Swekeya,[186]where they rested to wait for the caravan to come up. On the third day, a party of fifteen, or more, of the tribe of El Harib arrived at the resting-place, and after the usual salutations, inquired of Mohammed El Abd who he was travelling with? when he replied, a shereef, who was going to Gualata[187]on business. After some little conversation, the head of the party of El Harib requested Mohammed El Abd to show him the watering-place, who, leaving his musket behind, and the rest of the Haribsitting down, accompanied him over the sand-hills, and when out of sight, hearing a report of a musket, Mohammed El Abd asked what had been done, when the Harib replied, his party had shot the Christian; he complained bitterly, and said he would rather they had murdered him. It is stated, that when Mohammed El Abd went away, one of the Harib pretended to examine his gun, and seized the opportunity to take aim, and shot Mr. Davidson, who was sitting on the ground a short distance from the party, who immediately began to plunder and seize everything belonging to Mr. Davidson, allowing Mohammed El Abd to keep possession of what property belonged to him, obliging him first to make oath on the Koran. That the caravan was not met by the Harib, but has gone on to Timbuctoo, with which Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, travelled.
“Sidi Ali added, that he had reason to believe that the first robbers gave intelligence of Mr. Davidson’s route to the tribe of El Harib; and that had not Mr. Davidson stopped, he would have reached Toudeyny before they could have overtaken him.
“I am most sorry to observe, that I do not entertain a hope of receiving further or more correct particulars regarding the fate of Mr. Davidson than what I have communicated. He was aware of the perils and dangers of the journey; nothing could shake his determination, and his valuable life has paid the forfeit; but his name will be handed down to posterity, as one of the many victims who have nobly fallen in the cause of science.
“E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq.”
[Extracted from theJournalof theRoyal Geographical SocietyofLondon:—pp. 100—110. Vol. 6th.]
“Myname is Abú Bekr es siddík: my birth place is Tumbut. I was educated in the town of Jenneh (Genneh), and fully instructed in reading and construing the Koran,—but in the interpretation of it by the help of commentaries. This was [done] in the city of Ghónah, where there are many learned men [’ulemá], who are not natives of one place, but each of them, having quitted his own country, has come and settled there. The names of these sayyids who dwelt in the city of Ghónah were as follows:—’Abd-Allah ibn-al Hájj; Mohammed Wataráwí; Mohammed al Mustafá; Fatík, the white [man] [al abyad]; Sheïkh ’Abdäl-kádir, Sankarí, from the land of Fútah Jálló; Ibráhim ibn Yúsuf, from the land of Fútah Tóró; Ibráhím ibn Abí-l Hásan, from Sillá by descent, but born at Járrah. These men used to meet together to hear the instructions of ’Abd-Allah ibn-al Hájji Mohammed Tafsír.
“My father’s name was Karah Músá, the Sherif,[188]Weteráwí, Tassír,i.e.of the royal family.[189]His brothers were named Idrís [Enoch], ’Abdu-r-rahmán, Mahmúd, and Abú Bekr. Their father’s name was Már,[190]al Káïd, O’mar ibn Sháhidu-l-muluk [son of the King’s witness or chief law officer] in the cities of Tumbut and Jenneh. He[191]was also called Ibn Abú Ibrahím (may his grave be visited!) was of this country. He was their father’s first-born, and for that reason my name was called by the name of his brother Bekr.
“After their father’s death, there was a dissention between them and their families, and they separated, and went into different countries of the blacks.[192]Idríswent toJárrah, and married a daughter of Már, al-káïd Abú Bekr: her name was Ummuyu,—and he dwelt there.’Abdu-r-rahmántravelled as far asKong. He married the daughter of Abú Thaúmá ’Alí, lord of that country, and dwelt there. The name of his wife was Sárah.Mahmúd[travelled] to the city ofGhónah, and settled there. His wife’s name was Zuhrá.Abú Bekrremained atTumbutwith the rest of the family.[193]He was not married at the time I left our country.
“Before all these things happened my father used to travel about [continually.] He went into the land of Kashinah and Bernú. There he married my mother, and then returned to Tumbut, to which place my mother followed him. It came to pass after this, that he remembered his brethren, repented on account of them, and wept bitterly. He then ordered his slaves to make ready for their departure with him [on a journey] to visit his brethren, [and see] whether they were in [good] health or not. They, therefore, obeyed their master’s orders, and did so; and went to the town of Jenneh, and from thence to Kong, and afterwards to Ghónah. There they abode and continued to serve their master, collecting much gold for him there. In that country much gold is found in the plains, banks of rivers, rocks, and stones. They break the stones, and grind them, and reduce them to dust. This is then put into vessels, and washed with water till the gold is all collected under the water in the vessels, and the dust lies above it. They then pour out this mud upon the ground, and the gold remains in the vessels; and they spread it out to dry. After that, they try it [on a touchstone], and make such things as they are able. For money or exchange they use shells, called al woda’,[194]gold and silver; they also barter goods for goods, according to the measure of their value.
“My father collected much gold in that country, and sent much to his father-in-law; together with horses, asses, mules, and very valuable silk garments brought from Misr, with much wealth, as a present to him. He was my mother’s father; his name was Al Háij Mohammed Tafsír, of the countries of Bernú and Kashínah, both inhabited by his family.
“After this my father fell ill of a fever, and died in the city of Ghónah. He was buried there, and his brothers went and made a great lamentation for him. At that time I was a child; I knew nothing of this, but all these things were told me by some of our old men. They [my father’s brothers] returned afterwards to their own dwellings, and Mahmúd [alone] was left in the city of Ghónah.
“My mother’s name was Nághódí, that is, in the Haúsá tongue; but her real name was Hafsah.[195]Her brothers were named ’Abd-allah Tafsír, As-sifá, Ya’kúb, Yahyà,Sa’ad, Hámid Bábá, Múmin, ’Othmán, and ’Abdu-lkerim. Her sisters were Habíbah, Fátimah, Maryam, and Maïmúnah. Their father was named Al Hájji Mohammed Tafsír, of the cities of Kashínah and Bernú. With respect to my mother, she was born in the city of Bernú. Her father, when he went to perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca], left her mother suckling her, on which account her name was called Nághódí.
“My brothers were named ’Omar, Sálih, Sa’íd, Músá Bábà, Múmin, ’Abd-allah, Suleïmán, Mustafá, Yúsuf, and ’Abdu-r-rahmán; but my mother’s side, Sálih only. My sisters were ’A’yishah, Aminah, Selímah, Hawái [Eve], and Keltum; but Aminah only on my mother’s side. These men and these women issued, all of them, from the stock of the Sheïkh ’Abdu-l-kádir, the sheríf, and their family name is Mór.
“About five years after my father’s death, I asked my instructor, who taught me the Koran, to go with me to the city of Ghónah to visit my father’s grave. He answered, ‘Yea, Abú Bekr assiddík, if it please God, I will do that thou dost desire.’ He then prepared himself, and sought for provision for the road; and he was followed by a large company of his disciples,[196]who bewailed him. We reached the city of Kong, and afterwards went on to the city of Ghónah; and abode there a long time, reckoning that country as our own. We found protection[197]in that country. Two years after our arrival in Ghónah, it entered into my teacher’s heart to set out on the pilgrimage; and while he was making diligent enquiries from people who were going to perform the pilgrimage, some men told him of the business of Mohammed Keshín and his brother ’Omar, and Adam, of the land of Buntukhú. He then began to make inquiries of the people of Buntukkú, and they told him that Omar and Mohammed Keshín had departed, and had left Adam behind; that he was not [now] going, but wished to go. My master made haste to seek for him in some of the towns, and left me in the city of Ghónah with my uncle Mahmúd.
“At this time we heard the news of the business of Adingharah, Sultán of Buntukkú, after the Sultán of Bandah, or Inkoransá, who was named Afwá, had been killed. They say Adinkarah wished to kill Kujóh, governor of Kolongzhwí, a town belonging to the Sultán of Ghónah. He wished to kill him, because of what happened between him and Dikkì, his deputy [who had been killed by Kujóh]. Adinkarah, therefore wished to put the latter to death by way of retaliation. Adinkarah, Sultán of Buntukkú, sent to Kujóh, requiring him to pay a great deal of gold as a ransom for his life,[198]and Kujóh sent what he required; but he refused to accept it, and said to Kujóh’smessenger, ‘Return to thy master, and say to him, “Unless thou increase it by 200 times as much, I will not accept it; but my sword shall take his head from off his neck; thou shalt die a swift death.” When this messenger came to his master, and told him these words, Kujóh stretched out his hand, took back the gold, and kept it; and likewise sent a messenger to the Sultán of Ghónah to tell him what had happened.
“Then was Adinkarah very wroth; and he ordered all his captains to gather all their soldiers together, and follow him to make war against Kujóh, and to kill him, that they might avenge the death of his servant Dikkí. When the Sultán of Ghónah heard that Adinkarah, Sultán to Buntukkú, and his army, had come against them to kill them, he and all his host, together with Kujóh, rose up to meet them, and marched against them as far as the town of Bolóh, choosing to attack them there; and there they fought from mid-day till evening. Then they separated, and returned to their own places. Seven days afterwards, they again gathered themselves together, and engaged in battle, at the town of Amvighóh. It was a hard fought battle, and many souls perished on that day. Thus did Adinkarah overcome the King of Ghónah, and take the town of Amvighóh. The people of Ghónah fled, and some of them passed on [as far as] to the city of Kong.
“On that day was I made a slave. They tore off my cloths, bound me with ropes, laid on me a heavy burden, and carried me to the town of Buntukkú, and from thence to the town of Kumásí, the King of Ashantí’s town. From thence through Askumá and Ajimmakúh, in the land of Fantí, to Daghóh, near the salt sea.
“There they sold me to the Christians, and I was bought by a certain captain of a ship of that town. He sent me to a boat, and delivered me to the people of the ship. We continued on board ship, at sea, for three months, and then came on shore in the land of Jamaica. This was the beginning of my slavery until this day. I tasted the bitterness of slavery from them,[199]and its oppressiveness; but praise be to God, under whose power are all things, He doth whatsoever he willeth! No one can turn aside that which he hath ordained, nor can any one withhold that which He hath given! As God Almighty himself hath said:—Nothing can befal us unless it be written for us (in his book)! He is our master: in God, therefore, let all the faithful put their trust!
“The faith of our families is the faith of Islám. They circumcise the foreskin; say the five prayers;[200]fast every year in the month of Ramadán; give alms as ordained in the law; marry [only] four free women—a fifth is forbidden to them except she betheir slave; they fight for the faith of God; perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca]—i.e.such as are able so to do; eat the flesh of no beast but what they have slain for themselves; drink no wine—for whatever intoxicates is forbidden unto them; they do not keep company with those whose faith is contrary to theirs,—such as worshippers of idols, men who swear falsely by the name of the Lord, who dishonour their parents, commit murder or robbery, bear false witness, are covetous, proud, insolent, hypocrites, unclean in their discourse, or do any thing that is forbidden: they teach their children to read, and [instruct them in] the different parts of knowledge; their minds are perfect and blameless according to the measure of their faith.
“Verily I have erred and done wickedly, but I entreat God to guide my heart in the right path, for he knoweth what is in my heart, and whatever [can be pleaded] in my behalf.
“Finished in the month of August, on the 29th day, in the year of the Messiah
1834 [1835].”
From this narrative we collect that the writer of it was born at Tumbuktú, about the year 1794; that his grandfather ’Omar was an al-káïd, or magistrate, in that city and in Jenneh on the Jálibá or Niger, and son of the king’s witness, one of the principal law-officers of the state. Kong, where his uncle Abdu-r-rahmán settled, is the place in the chain of mountains running parallel with the southern coast of Africa, the position of which was pointed out to Mungo Park. Its distance and bearing with respect to Jenneh, as far as Abú Bekr could give any notion of them, appear to agree nearly with the position assigned to it in Mr. J. Arrowsmith’s Map of Africa. Ghónah, the residence of Mahmúd, another of Abú Bekr’s uncles, is about eight days’ journey east or south-east of Kong. That place he believed to be mid-way between Jenneh and Ashantí. But as the distance between Ghónah and Ashantí is twelve days’ journey, that capital, the position of which is known, must be about twenty days’ journey distant from Kong, and forty from Jenneh. Abúr Bekr was two months on his way from Jenneh to Kong, but he thought the journey might be completed in fifteen days; twenty days, therefore, gives a fair mean, and confirms his supposition that Kong is just midway between the Jálibá and Ashantí.
When only two years old, his father removed to Jenneh from Tumbuktú, or, as Abú Bekr generally called it, Tumbuttú, or Tumbut;[201]of that place, therefore, he had no recollection. When only four years old he lost his father; and five years afterwards, when he was in the tenth year, he went to Ghónah to visit his father’s burial-place, stopping one year at Kong on the way. On the supposition, therefore, that heremained three years at Ghónah, he was in his fourteenth year when he fell into the hands of the Ashantís, and was sent as a slave to the West Indies either in 1807 or 1808. Amvíkoh, the place where he was seized by the people of Buntukkú, is fifteen or twenty miles to the south of Ghónah, and nine days’ journey south of Kumásí, the capital of Ashantí. Daghó, the place on the coast where he was put on board ship, is mentioned by Protten, the Danish missionary, as not far from Winnebá, one of the British forts. (Adelung, Mithrid., iii. 188.) From Daghó, or rather Cape Coast, Abú Bekr was carried to Jamaica, in which island he passed about twenty-seven years of his life, first as the slave of a stone-mason named Donellan, subsequently on the estate of Mr. Haynes, and finally as the property of Mr. Anderson. Donellan was a very kind master, and when he told his slaves, about a year after Abú Bekr was purchased by him, that, as his mother wished to see him, he must return to England, after selling his property in Jamaica, they all shed tears. Mr. Haynes, it appears, was not himself resident on the island; and it was by his order that Abú Bekr, and the rest of the slaves on his estate, were baptised. In what manner they were prepared for baptism, it was difficult to ascertain; certain it is, as we learn from Dr. Madden, that the Mohammedans still retained their faith in the divine mission of Mahomet. It was at his baptism that Abú Bekr was named Edward Donellan. Mr. Haynes’s benevolent intentions cannot be doubted; but, as is too often the case where the planters are not residing on their property, his overseers and agents did not faithfully execute his orders, for “it was then,” says Abú Bekr, in a paper written on his voyage home, “that I tasted all the bitterness of slavery.” On the 6th of September, 1823, Mr. Haynes’s property was sold, and Abú Bekr was purchased by Mr. Anderson, who, having discovered his steadiness and honesty, employed him to take an account of all that came or was issued from his slave yard. He put down everything in negro English and in the Arabic character, (for he never had an opportunity of learning to read or write English,) and read it off to the overseer in the evening. His cyphers they perhaps could read themselves, and therefore prove his sums; but as he is well acquainted with the first rules of arithmetic, and very careful, they were probably satisfied with the sum total that he gave in. After his liberation he continued in the same employment, but his condition could hardly be said to be improved, as his employer merely gave him his board, and appears to have withdrawn most of the former indulgences, without substituting wages in their stead. Nor, but for the kind and determined assistance of Capt. Oldrey, would he have been suffered to come to this country, or indeed to leave Jamaica.
Of the kindness of his present master he speaks in terms of the warmest gratitude; and Mr. Davidson, on his part, fully appreciates his merits. Should that enterprisingtraveller be so fortunate as to reach Tumbuktú in safety, he will find—independently of the rank which, it seems, Abú Bekr’s relations there hold—that so faithful, affectionate, and intelligent an interpreter is a treasure, the value of which cannot be too highly estimated.
As the veracity of Abú Bekr’s narrative has received an unexpected corroboration from the testimony of persons whom Mr. Davidson saw in Morocco, it may appear superfluous to enlarge upon the circumstances which justify our reliance on the truth of his statements; but a brief mention of a few will perhaps be considered as an appropriate conclusion to this paper.
We may say, then, that his general good character, his years as indicated by his face, and the cessation of the slave-trade in March, 1808, are all so many evidences in favour of his statements respecting the age at which he was carried to the West Indies. His knowledge of the Arabic language is another very cogent proof of the truth of his statements. Though far from being able to write it with strict grammatical accuracy, or possessing the command of an abundant stock of words and phrases, his power of expressing himself in that copious and difficult tongue, and the clearness and facility with which he writes its characters, are truly surprising when his peculiar circumstances are taken into account. He could scarcely have completed his fifteenth year when taken away from Africa; was two years in the West Indies before he could obtain the use of pen, ink, and paper; and, with the exception of two or three negroes,—one fortunately on board the slaver which carried him off,—had no means of reviving his remembrance of what he had learned, till a very late period.
Some time before he left Jamaica, a benevolent stranger, who found that he could read Arabic, sent him, from England, a copy of the New Testament in that language; and he had also read parts of the Old Testament with attention, as is evident from some texts quoted in the narrative written on his voyage from New York to England. On seeing the plates in Mr. Bowdich’s Travels, he immediately recognised a street in Kumásí, and the magical ceremonies of the Ashantí soothsayers; in Mr. Dupuis’s book also the passage of the Basomprá. He mentioned many of the names of king’s and chiefs, of whom those writers speak. At the British Museum, instantly he recognized many old acquaintances; particularly the hippopotamus, who, he said, always came out of the water at certain hours, and did a great deal of mischief. With the plants and seeds he seemed equally well acquainted; particularly the nittah, a species of acacia, and the palms,—most of which he could never have seen in the West Indies. His acquaintance with the Korán was no less remarkable. “What became of that wicked king, Fróna?” said he, to one of his friends from whom he had already received some information.—“I never heard of Fróna,” said his friend.—“Oh, yes,” replied Abú Bekr, “you knowhim,—he is spoken of in the Bible; he was King of Misr,—he is mentioned in many places in the Kóran.”—“Write down his name, then,” returned his friend; and he wrote “Fir’aum,”i.e.Pharaoh, very correctly spelt. It was too late to look for the Korán that night; but the next morning, he in a few minutes found out almost all the places where Pharaoh is mentioned—scattered, as need hardly be said, all over the book. In the summer, he chaunted the call to prayer—given by the Muedhdhins from the minarets of the mosque—with the exact pronunciation, intonation, and rhythm, that is used from Cairo to Constantinople, and from Belgrade to Dehlí.
The Kóran he must have known almost by heart, as he declared he had never seen a copy of it from the time he left Ghónah till one was put into his hand by the writer of this paper. He was not old enough, he said, when captured, to enter on a course of logic and rhetoric, or to study the commentaries on the Korán; but he knew the names of the most celebrated commentators. This is a plain proof of the superior civilization of the negroes in the interior over those near the coast; and, however incredible at first sight, it is confirmed by Burckhardt’s account of the Shaïkìyah Arabs in Meroë, and the well-written Arabic despatches from Bello’s court, now in the records of the Foreign Office.
In justice to Mr. E. Drummond Hay, the British Consul at Tangiers, to whom Mr. Davidson once felt disposed to attribute the difficulties thrown in his way and his protracted stay at Gibraltar, it has been thought fit to put in the Appendix the letters following:—