ANTWERP.

This is a dismal heavy looking town—somelancholy! the Scheld shut up! the grass growing in the streets! those streets so empty of inhabitants! and it was so famous once.Atuatum nobile Brabantiæ opidum in ripâ Schaldis flu. Europæ nationibus maximè frequentatum. Sumptuosis tam privatis quam publicis nitet ædificiis[54], say the not very old books of geography when speaking of this once stately city;

But trade’s proud empire sweeps to swift decay,As ocean heaves the labour’d mole away.Goldsmith.

But trade’s proud empire sweeps to swift decay,As ocean heaves the labour’d mole away.

But trade’s proud empire sweeps to swift decay,

As ocean heaves the labour’d mole away.

Goldsmith.

And surely if the empire of Rome is actually fled away into air like a dream, the opulence of Antwerp may well crumble to earth like a clod. What defies time is genius; and of that, many and glorious proofs are yet left behind in this place. The composition of a picture painted to adorn the altar under which lies buried that which was mortal of its artist, is beyond all meaner praise. The figure of St. George might stand by that of Corregio, and suffer no diminution of one’s esteem. The descent from the cross too!—Well! if Daniel de Volterra’s is more elegantly pathetic, Rubens has puthispathos in a properer place.—The blessed Virgin Mary ought to be but the second figure certainly in a scene which represents our almighty Saviour himself completing the redemption of all mankind. But here is another devotional piece, highly poetical, almost dramatic, representing Christ descending in anger to consume a guilty world. The globe at a distance low beneath his feet, his pious mother prostrate before him, covering part of it with her robe, and deprecating the divine wrath in a most touching manner. St. Sebastian shewing his wounds with an air of the tenderest supplication; Carlo Borromæobeseeching in heaven for those fellow-creatures he ceased not loving or serving while on earth; and St. Francis in the groupe, but surely ill-chosen; as he who left the world, and planned only his own salvation by retirement from its cares and temptations, would be unlikely enough to intreat for its longer continuance: his dress however, so favourable to painters, was the reason he was pitched upon I trust, as it affords a particularly happy contrast to the cardinal’s robes of St. Carlo.

I will finish my reflections upon painting here, and apologize for their frequency only by confessing my fondness for the art; and my conviction, that had I said nothing of that art in a journey through Italy and Germany, where so much of every traveller’s attention is led to mention it, I should have been justly blamed for affectation; while being censured for impertinence disgusts me less of the two. What I have learned from the Italians is a maxim more valuable than all my stock of connoisseurship:Che c’è in tutto il suo bene, e il suo male—thatthere is much of evil and of good in every thing: and the life of a traveller evinces the truth of that position perhaps morethan any other. So persuaded, we made a bold endeavour to cross the Scheld; but the wind was so outrageously high, no boat was willing to venture till towards night: at that hour “Unus, et hic audax[55],” as Leander says, offered his service to convey us; but the passage of the Rhine had been so rough before, that I felt by no means disposed to face danger again just at the close of the battle.

When we find a disposition to talk over our adventures, the great ice islands driving downRhenus ferox, as Seneca justly calls it, and threatening to run against and destroy our awkward ill-contrived boat, may divert care over a winter’s fire, some evening in England, by recollection of past perils. I thought it a dreadful one at the time; and have no taste to renew a like scene for the sake of crossing the Scheld, and arriving a very few moments sooner than returning through Brussels will bring us—a la Place de

Where every thing appears to me to be just like England, at least just by it; and in fact four and twenty hours would carry us thither with a fair wind: and now it really does feel as if the journey were over; and even in that sensation, though there is some pleasure, there is some pain too;—the time and the places are past;—and I have only left to wish, that my improvements of the one, and my accounts of the others, were better; for though Mr. Sherlock comforts his followers with the kind assertion, That if a hundred men of parts travelled over Italy, and each made a separate book of whathesaw and observed, a hundred excellent compositions might be made, of which no two should be alike, yet all new, all resembling the original, and all admirable of their kind.—One’s constantly-recurring fear is, lest the readers should cry out, with Juliet—

Yea, but all this did I know before!

How truly might they say so, did I mention the oddity (for oddity it still is) in this town of Lille, to see dogs drawing in carts as beasts of burden, and lying down in the market-place when their work is done, to gnaw the bones thrown them by their drivers: they are of mastiff race seemingly, crossed by the bull-dog, yet not quarrelsome at all. This is a very awkward and barbarous practice however, and, as far as I know, confined to this city; for in all others, people seem to have found out, that horses, asses, and oxen are the proper creatures to draw wheel carriages—except indeed at Vienna, where the streets are so very narrow, that the men resolve rather to be harnessed than run over.

How fine I thought these churches thirteen years ago, comes now thirteen times a-day into my head; they are not fine at all; but it was the first time I had ever crossed the channel, and I thought every thing a wonder, and fancied we were arrived at the world’s end almost; so differently do the self-same places appear to the self-same people surrounded by different circumstances! I now feel as if we were at Canterbury. Was one to go toEgypt, the sight of Naples on the return home would probably afford a like sensation of proximity: and I recollect, one of the gentlemen who had been with Admiral Anson round the world told us, that when he came back as near as our East India settlements, he considered the voyage as finished, and all his toils at an end—so is my little book; and (if Italy may be considered, upon Sherlock’s principle, as a sort of academy-figure set up for us all to draw from) my design of it may have a chance to go in the portfolio with the rest, after its exhibition-day is over.

With regard to the general effect travelling has upon the human mind, it is different with different people. Brydone has observed, that the magnetic needle loses her habits upon the heights of Ætna, nor ever more regains her partiality for thenorth, till again newly touched by the loadstone: it is so with many men who have lived long from home; they find, like Imogen,

That there’s living out of Britain;

and if they return to it after an absence of several years, bring back with them an alienatedmind—this is not well. Others there are, who, being accustomed to live a considerable time in places where they have not the smallest intention to fix for ever, but on the contrary firmly resolve to leavesometime, learn to treat the world as a man treats his mistress, whom he likes well enough, but has no design to marry, and of course never provides for—this is not well neither. A third set gain the love of hurrying perpetually from place to place; living familiarly with all, but intimately with none; till confounding their own ideas (still undisclosed) of right and wrong, they learn to think virtue and vice ambulatory, as Browne says; profess that climate and constitution regulate men’s actions, till they try to persuade their companions into a belief most welcome to themselves, that the will of God in one place is by no means his will in another; and most resemble in their whirling fancies a boy’s top I once saw shewn by a professor who read us a lecture upon opticks; it was painted in regular stripes round like a narrow ribbon, red, blue, green, and yellow; we set it a-spinning by direction of our philosopher, who, whipping it merrily about, obtained as a generaleffect the total privation of all the four colours, so distinct at the beginning of itstour;—it resembled a dirty white!

With these reflexions and recollections we drove forward to Calais, where I left the following lines at our inn:

Over mountains, rivers, vallies,Here are we return’d to Calais;After all their taunts and malice,Ent’ring safe the gates of Calais;While, constrain’d, our captain dallies,Waiting for a wind at Calais,Muse! prepare some sprightly salliesTo divertennuiat Calais.Turkish ships, Venetian gallies,Have we seen since last at Calais;But tho’ Hogarth (rogue who rallies!)Ridicules the French at Calais,We, who’ve walk’d o’er many a palace,Quite well content return to Calais;For, striking honestly the tallies,There’s little choice ’twixt them and Calais.

Over mountains, rivers, vallies,

Here are we return’d to Calais;

After all their taunts and malice,

Ent’ring safe the gates of Calais;

While, constrain’d, our captain dallies,

Waiting for a wind at Calais,

Muse! prepare some sprightly sallies

To divertennuiat Calais.

Turkish ships, Venetian gallies,

Have we seen since last at Calais;

But tho’ Hogarth (rogue who rallies!)

Ridicules the French at Calais,

We, who’ve walk’d o’er many a palace,

Quite well content return to Calais;

For, striking honestly the tallies,

There’s little choice ’twixt them and Calais.

It would have been graceless not to give these lines a companion on the other side the water, like Dean Swift’s distich before and after he climbed Penmanmaur: these verses were therefore written, and I believe still remain, in an apartment of the Ship inn:

He whom fair winds have wafted over,First hails his native land at Dover,And doubts not but he shall discoverPleasure in ev’ry path round Dover;Envies the happy crows which hoverAbout old Shakespeare’s cliff at Dover;Nor once reflects that each young roverFeels just the same, return’d to Dover.From this fond dream he’ll soon recoverWhen debts shall drive him back to Dover,Hoping, though poor, to live in clover,Once safely past the straits of Dover.But he alone’s his country’s lover,Who, absent long, returns to Dover,And can by fair experience prove herThe best he has found since last at Dover.

He whom fair winds have wafted over,

First hails his native land at Dover,

And doubts not but he shall discover

Pleasure in ev’ry path round Dover;

Envies the happy crows which hover

About old Shakespeare’s cliff at Dover;

Nor once reflects that each young rover

Feels just the same, return’d to Dover.

From this fond dream he’ll soon recover

When debts shall drive him back to Dover,

Hoping, though poor, to live in clover,

Once safely past the straits of Dover.

But he alone’s his country’s lover,

Who, absent long, returns to Dover,

And can by fair experience prove her

The best he has found since last at Dover.

THE END.

FOOTNOTES[1]Lord, Madam! why we came here on purpose sure to see the end of the world.[2]Freed from his keepers thus with broken reinsThe wanton courser prances o’er the plains.Dryden.[3]When the mountain was inill-humour.[4]More laborious than gathering up the Sibyl’s leaves.[5]I have danced in my bed so often this year.[6]Is she yet alive? Is she yet alive?[7]Be it as it may.[8]Which was once Anxur, and now is Terracina.[9]The temple sacred to the maiden Juno and un-razored Jove.[10]And the steep hills of Circe stretch around,Where fair Feronia boasts her stately grove,And Anxur glories in her guardian Jove.Pitt.[11]White Anxur’s salutary waters roll.[12]Why, Madam, you have hit on it sure enough.[13]Surge, et ego ipse homo sum.Vulgate.[14]This hiding-hole received Nero after his golden house.[15]Our Alexander sells keys, altars, heaven;When law and right are sold, he’ll buy:—that’s even.[16]Juno too has her thunder.[17]Here’s something at last that’s truly great however! why this Alexander looks fit to be king of France.[18]Pagliais a straw-coloured marble, wonderfully beautiful, and extremely rare; found only in some northern tracts of Africa, I am told here.[19]What you are already, that desire to be for ever.[20]Girt with the limus, and as to their temples,theywere crowned with vervain.[21]That’s the name of the spring.[22]There was an old religious temple hard by, where Clitumnus himself was venerated with suitable dress and ornaments.[23]Nightly lamenting, &c.[24]The colony of Ancona, founded by Sicilians.[25]The beauteous gulph which fair Ancona laves,Ancona wash’d by white Dalmatian waves.[26]I am a light-fingered fellow, Master.[27]We are all sinners you know.[28]The best among the Cæsars.[29]Mayst thou be happier than Augustus!—better than Trajan![30]Eating increases one’s appetite.[31]Though fat Bologna feeds to the fill,Our Padua is fatter still.[32]Pompous and holy ancient Rome we call,Venice rich, wise, and lordly over all.[33]Truth alone is pleasing.[34]Wilt thou have music? hark, Apollo plays,And twentycagednightingales shall sing.Shakespeare.[35]Not Hybla’s sweets, nor Naples devoloons,Nor grapes which hide the hill with rich festoons;Nor fat Bologna’s valley, have I chose;What is your wish then? May I speak?—repose.[36]Thy knowledge is nothing till other men know that thou knowest it.[37]Methinks there seems to be much slavery required from those who inhabit your fine free country of England.[38]In the fine cieling of Palazzo Ludovigi at Rome, the Hours which surround Aurora’s chariot are employed in extinguishing the Stars with their hands.[39]One volume of this Leonardiana is now in the private library of the king of England at the queen’s house in the park, preserved from Charles or James the First’s collection, and written with the left hand, or rather backwards, to be read only with the help of a mirror.[40]All so natural and pretty,—quite in the English style.[41]That is, with a heap of friends about one in this manner.[42]Oh! God keep one from that.[43]What prince makes his residence here?[44]Her studies, manners, arts, to all proclaimFair Clelia’s glory, and her sex’s shame.[45]Two lords in vain unlucky Dido tries;One dead, she flies the land; one fled—she dies.[46]Faithful to his cares, and companionable in his studies.[47]Whoever sees thee without being smitten with extraordinary passion, must, I think, be incapable of loving even himself.[48]Nothing too much.[49]The lazy ox for trappings sighs.[50]Ever stormy or venemous.[51]Here’s the place to see fine diamonds.[52]What are they after all their pains,These thunderbolts of war?Mere caput mortuum that remainsWhich worms vouchsafe to spare.[53]All these have liv’d; ye too who read must die:Haste and be wise, the fateful minutes fly.[54]Antwerp is a noble town of Brabant, situated on the banks of the Scheld; frequented by most of the nations in Europe, and sumptuous in its buildings both public and private.[55]One—and he a bold one.

[1]Lord, Madam! why we came here on purpose sure to see the end of the world.

[2]Freed from his keepers thus with broken reinsThe wanton courser prances o’er the plains.Dryden.

[2]

Freed from his keepers thus with broken reinsThe wanton courser prances o’er the plains.Dryden.

Freed from his keepers thus with broken reinsThe wanton courser prances o’er the plains.

Freed from his keepers thus with broken reins

The wanton courser prances o’er the plains.

Dryden.

[3]When the mountain was inill-humour.

[4]More laborious than gathering up the Sibyl’s leaves.

[5]I have danced in my bed so often this year.

[6]Is she yet alive? Is she yet alive?

[7]Be it as it may.

[8]Which was once Anxur, and now is Terracina.

[9]The temple sacred to the maiden Juno and un-razored Jove.

[10]And the steep hills of Circe stretch around,Where fair Feronia boasts her stately grove,And Anxur glories in her guardian Jove.Pitt.

[10]

And the steep hills of Circe stretch around,Where fair Feronia boasts her stately grove,And Anxur glories in her guardian Jove.Pitt.

And the steep hills of Circe stretch around,Where fair Feronia boasts her stately grove,And Anxur glories in her guardian Jove.

And the steep hills of Circe stretch around,

Where fair Feronia boasts her stately grove,

And Anxur glories in her guardian Jove.

Pitt.

[11]White Anxur’s salutary waters roll.

[12]Why, Madam, you have hit on it sure enough.

[13]Surge, et ego ipse homo sum.Vulgate.

[14]This hiding-hole received Nero after his golden house.

[15]Our Alexander sells keys, altars, heaven;When law and right are sold, he’ll buy:—that’s even.

[15]

Our Alexander sells keys, altars, heaven;When law and right are sold, he’ll buy:—that’s even.

Our Alexander sells keys, altars, heaven;

When law and right are sold, he’ll buy:—that’s even.

[16]Juno too has her thunder.

[17]Here’s something at last that’s truly great however! why this Alexander looks fit to be king of France.

[18]Pagliais a straw-coloured marble, wonderfully beautiful, and extremely rare; found only in some northern tracts of Africa, I am told here.

[19]What you are already, that desire to be for ever.

[20]Girt with the limus, and as to their temples,theywere crowned with vervain.

[21]That’s the name of the spring.

[22]There was an old religious temple hard by, where Clitumnus himself was venerated with suitable dress and ornaments.

[23]Nightly lamenting, &c.

[24]The colony of Ancona, founded by Sicilians.

[25]The beauteous gulph which fair Ancona laves,Ancona wash’d by white Dalmatian waves.

[25]

The beauteous gulph which fair Ancona laves,Ancona wash’d by white Dalmatian waves.

The beauteous gulph which fair Ancona laves,

Ancona wash’d by white Dalmatian waves.

[26]I am a light-fingered fellow, Master.

[27]We are all sinners you know.

[28]The best among the Cæsars.

[29]Mayst thou be happier than Augustus!—better than Trajan!

[30]Eating increases one’s appetite.

[31]Though fat Bologna feeds to the fill,Our Padua is fatter still.

[31]

Though fat Bologna feeds to the fill,Our Padua is fatter still.

Though fat Bologna feeds to the fill,

Our Padua is fatter still.

[32]Pompous and holy ancient Rome we call,Venice rich, wise, and lordly over all.

[32]

Pompous and holy ancient Rome we call,Venice rich, wise, and lordly over all.

Pompous and holy ancient Rome we call,

Venice rich, wise, and lordly over all.

[33]Truth alone is pleasing.

[34]Wilt thou have music? hark, Apollo plays,And twentycagednightingales shall sing.Shakespeare.

[34]

Wilt thou have music? hark, Apollo plays,And twentycagednightingales shall sing.Shakespeare.

Wilt thou have music? hark, Apollo plays,And twentycagednightingales shall sing.

Wilt thou have music? hark, Apollo plays,

And twentycagednightingales shall sing.

Shakespeare.

[35]Not Hybla’s sweets, nor Naples devoloons,Nor grapes which hide the hill with rich festoons;Nor fat Bologna’s valley, have I chose;What is your wish then? May I speak?—repose.

[35]

Not Hybla’s sweets, nor Naples devoloons,Nor grapes which hide the hill with rich festoons;Nor fat Bologna’s valley, have I chose;What is your wish then? May I speak?—repose.

Not Hybla’s sweets, nor Naples devoloons,

Nor grapes which hide the hill with rich festoons;

Nor fat Bologna’s valley, have I chose;

What is your wish then? May I speak?—repose.

[36]Thy knowledge is nothing till other men know that thou knowest it.

[37]Methinks there seems to be much slavery required from those who inhabit your fine free country of England.

[38]In the fine cieling of Palazzo Ludovigi at Rome, the Hours which surround Aurora’s chariot are employed in extinguishing the Stars with their hands.

[39]One volume of this Leonardiana is now in the private library of the king of England at the queen’s house in the park, preserved from Charles or James the First’s collection, and written with the left hand, or rather backwards, to be read only with the help of a mirror.

[40]All so natural and pretty,—quite in the English style.

[41]That is, with a heap of friends about one in this manner.

[42]Oh! God keep one from that.

[43]What prince makes his residence here?

[44]Her studies, manners, arts, to all proclaimFair Clelia’s glory, and her sex’s shame.

[44]

Her studies, manners, arts, to all proclaimFair Clelia’s glory, and her sex’s shame.

Her studies, manners, arts, to all proclaim

Fair Clelia’s glory, and her sex’s shame.

[45]Two lords in vain unlucky Dido tries;One dead, she flies the land; one fled—she dies.

[45]

Two lords in vain unlucky Dido tries;One dead, she flies the land; one fled—she dies.

Two lords in vain unlucky Dido tries;

One dead, she flies the land; one fled—she dies.

[46]Faithful to his cares, and companionable in his studies.

[47]Whoever sees thee without being smitten with extraordinary passion, must, I think, be incapable of loving even himself.

[48]Nothing too much.

[49]The lazy ox for trappings sighs.

[50]Ever stormy or venemous.

[51]Here’s the place to see fine diamonds.

[52]What are they after all their pains,These thunderbolts of war?Mere caput mortuum that remainsWhich worms vouchsafe to spare.

[52]

What are they after all their pains,These thunderbolts of war?Mere caput mortuum that remainsWhich worms vouchsafe to spare.

What are they after all their pains,

These thunderbolts of war?

Mere caput mortuum that remains

Which worms vouchsafe to spare.

[53]All these have liv’d; ye too who read must die:Haste and be wise, the fateful minutes fly.

[53]

All these have liv’d; ye too who read must die:Haste and be wise, the fateful minutes fly.

All these have liv’d; ye too who read must die:

Haste and be wise, the fateful minutes fly.

[54]Antwerp is a noble town of Brabant, situated on the banks of the Scheld; frequented by most of the nations in Europe, and sumptuous in its buildings both public and private.

[55]One—and he a bold one.

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Sketches of the History of Man, by the Author of the Elements of Criticism. 4 vols. 1l. 8s. 3d Edition.

An Account of the Voyages undertaken by Order of his present Majesty for making Discoveries in the Southern Hemisphere, and successively performed by Commodore Byron, Capt. Wallis, and Capt. Carteret, in the Dolphin, and Swallow, and the Endeavour; drawn up from the Journals which were kept by the several Commanders, and from the Papers of Joseph Banks, Esq; and Dr. Solander. By John Hawkesworth, LL.D. Illustrated with Cuts and a great Variety of Charts and Maps (in all 52 Plates) relative to the Countries now first discovered, or hitherto but imperfectly known. Price 3l. 12s. bound.

An Account of a Voyage towards the South Pole, and round the World, performed in his Majesty’s Ships the Resolution and Adventure, in the Years 1772, 1773, 1774, and 1775. Written by James Cook, Commander of the Resolution. In which is included, Captain Furneaux’s Narrative of his Proceedings in the Adventure, during the Separation of the Ships. Elegantly printed in two Vols. Royal 4to. Illustrated with Maps and Charts, and a Variety of Portraits of Persons, and Views of Places, drawn during the Voyage by Mr. Hodges, and engraved by the most eminent Masters. 2l. 12s.

Travels into Poland, Russia, Sweden, and Denmark, interspersed with historical Relations and political Inquiries, illustrated with Maps and Engravings. By William Coxe, A.M., F.R.S. &c. 4 Vols. 1l. 10s.

An Account of the Russian Discoveries between Asia and America; to which are added, the Conquest of Siberia, and the History of the Transactions and Commerce between Russia and China. By William Coxe, A.M. Fellow of King’s College, Cambridge. Illustrated with Charts, and a View of a Chinese Town, 3d Edit. 7s. 6d.

Decorative endpiece

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