Chapter 8

She set up and encouraged linen and woollen manufactory which soon brought down the prices of the breakens [i.e., tartans] and narrow cloths of both sorts.[36]

Of seventeenth century writings one of the earliest to provide a notice of the Highland dress isCamdenâ€™s Britannia, printed in 1607, which mentions that:-

This country is inhabited by a rough, warlike, and very mischievous sort of people, commonly called Highlandmen, who are the true offspring of the ancient Scotch, speak Irish, call themselves Albinnich, are set and tight moulded, of great strength and swiftness, high spirited, bred up in war or rather robbery, and extremely prone to revenge and deep resentment. They wear after the Irish fashion striped mantles and thick long hair, and live by hunting, fishing, and plunder.[37]

Doubtless there was greater intercourse between the English and their conquered dependants in Ireland than between the English and the Scots, and hence the dress in Ireland ranks before that in Scotland in the comparison instituted by the writer.

Peculiar interest attaches to the description of John Taylor inThe Pennyless Pilgrimage; for his observations, carefully noted down in 1618, in view of the fact that they would come under the cognisance of the king (James VI.), are full and important, as this extract illustrates:â€”

Thus with extreme travell, ascending and descending, mounting and alighting, I came at night to the place where I would be, in the Brea of Marr, which is a large country, all composed of such mountaines, that Shooterâ€™s hill, Gads hill, Highgate hill, Hampsted hill, Birdlip hill, or Malvernes hill, are but mole-hills in comparison, or like a liver, or a gizzardunder a caponâ€™s wing, in respect to the altitude of their tops, or perpendicularitie of their bottomes. There I saw mount Benawne [Benavon in Braemar] with a furrâ€™d mist upon his snowie head instead of a night cap: for you must understand, that the oldest man alive never saw but the snow was on the top of divers of those hills, both in summer, as well as in winter. There did I finde the truely noble and right honourable Lords John Erskin Earle of Marr, James Stuart Earle of Murray, George Gordon Earle of Engye, sonne and heire to the Marquesse of Huntly, James Erskin Earle of Bughan, and John Lord Erskin, sonne and heire to the Earle of Marr, and their Countesses, with my much honoured, and my best assured and approved friend, Sir William Murray knight, of Abercarny, and hundred of others knights, esquires, and their followers; all and every man in generall in one habit, as if Licurgus had beene there, and made lawes of equality. For once in the yeere, which is the whole moneth of August, and sometimes part of September, many of the nobility and gentry of the kingdome (for their pleasure) doe come into these high-land countries to hunt, where they doe conforme themselves to the habite of the High-land-men, who for the most part, speake nothing but Irish; and in former time were those people which were called the Red-shankes. Their habite is shooes with but one sole apiece; stockings (which they call short hose) made of a warm stuffe of divers colours, which they call Tartane: as for breeches, many of them, nor their forefathers, never wore any, but a jerkin of the same stuffe that their hose is of, their garters being bands or wreathes of hay or straw, with a plead about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, much finer and lighter stuffe than their hose, with blue flat caps on their heads, a handkerchiefe knit with two knots about their necke; and thus are they attyred. Now, their weapons are long bowes and forked arrowes, swords and targets, harquebusses, muskets, durks, and Loquhabor-axes. With these armes I found many of them armed for the hunting. As for their attire, any man of what degree soever that comes amongst them, must not disdaine to weare it: for if they doe, then they will disdaine to hunt, or willingly to bring in their dogges: but if men be kind unto them, and be in their habit; then are they conquered with kindnesse, and the sport will be plentifull. This was the reason that I found so many noblemen and gentlemen in those shapes. But to proceed to the hunting.My good Lord of Marr having put me into that shape, I rode with him from his house, where I saw the ruines of an old castle, called the castle of Kindroghit. It was built by King Malcolm Canmore (for a hunting house) who raigned in Scotland when Edward the Confessor, Harold, and Norman William raigned in England: I speak of it, because it was the last house I saw in those parts; for I was the space of twelve days after, before I saw either house, corne-field, or habitation for any creature, but deere, wilde horses, wolves, and suche like creatures, which made me doubt that I should never have seene a house againe.[38]

My good Lord of Marr having put me into that shape, I rode with him from his house, where I saw the ruines of an old castle, called the castle of Kindroghit. It was built by King Malcolm Canmore (for a hunting house) who raigned in Scotland when Edward the Confessor, Harold, and Norman William raigned in England: I speak of it, because it was the last house I saw in those parts; for I was the space of twelve days after, before I saw either house, corne-field, or habitation for any creature, but deere, wilde horses, wolves, and suche like creatures, which made me doubt that I should never have seene a house againe.[38]

The attachment of the Highlanders to their distinctive attire is conspicuously evident in this account, which deserves careful study in consequence of itsprofusion of detail. Trews (breeches) were not worn, but in their stead was a tartan â€œjerkinâ€; and this had no connection with the plaid, for the people had a â€œplead about their shoulders, which is a mantle of divers colours, much finer and lighter stuffe than their hose.â€ Being coarser and thicker than the plaid, the â€œjerkinâ€ could scarcely have been the shirt, and it was most probably the feilebeg, or little kilt, used as a separate garment.

That the form of the feilebeg was known to the Highlanders before the civil wars of the seventeenth century, and that the belted plaid was thrown occasionally into the form of the feilebeg, is proved by the following extract:â€”

As for their Apparel; next the skin, they wear a short linnen Shirt, which the great Men among them sometimes dye of saffron Colour. They use it short, that it may not incumber them, when running or travelling. Major says the common People among them went out to Battle, having their Body coverâ€™d with Linnen of many Folds sewed together and done over with Wax or Pitch, with a covering of Hartâ€™s Skin; but that the English and common lowland Scots fought in Clokes. In the sharp Winter weather the Highland Men wear close trowzes, which cover the Thighs, Legs, and Feet. To fence their feet they put on Rullions or raw leather shoes. Above their Shirt they have a single Coat, reaching no farther than the Navel. Their uppermost Garment is a loose Cloke of several Ells, striped and party colourâ€™d (the tartan plaid), which they gird breadth-wise with a Leathern Belt so as it scarce covers the knees, and that for the above-mentionâ€™d Reason, that it may be no Lett to them, when on a Journey or doing any Work. Far the greatest part of the Plaid covers the uppermost parts of the Body. Sometimes it is all folded round the Body about the Region of the Belt, for disengaging and leaving the Hands free; and sometimes â€™tis wrapped round all that is above the Flank. The trowzes are for Winter use; at other Times they content themselves with short Hose, which scarce reach to the knees. When they compose themselves to Rest and Sleep, they loose the Belt, and roll themselves in the Plaid, lying down on the bare Ground, or putting Heather under them nicely set together after their Manner; or, for want of that, they use a little Straw or Hay.[39]

It has been already noted that the Scottish auxiliaries who went to France in 1552 were in trews (â€œhoisâ€), and, similarly, when the northern army invaded England in 1639, no reference is made to the kilt or to the bare legs, the first peculiarity to impress strangers. It would thus appear that the kilt did not at this time form part of the military dress. The following description is extracted from Defoeâ€™sMemoirs of a Cavalier, which evinces considerable acquaintance with military habits and equipments:â€”

I confess, the soldiers made a very uncouth figure, especially the highlanders: the oddness and barbarity of their garb and arms seemed to have something in it remarkable.They were generally tall swinging fellows; their swords were extravagantly and I think insignificantly broad, and they carried great wooden targets, large enough to cover the upper part of their bodies. Their dress was as antique as the rest; a cap on their heads, called by them a bonnet, long hanging sleeves behind, and their doublet, breeches, and stockings, of a stuff they called plaid, striped across red and yellow, with short cloaks of the same. These fellows looked, when drawn out, like a regiment of merry-andrews, ready for Bartholomew Fair. They are in companies all of a name and therefore call one another only by their christian names, ... and they scorn to be commanded but by one of their own clan or family.... There were three or four thousand of these in the Scotsâ€™ army, armed only with swords and targets; and in their belts some of them had a pistol, but no musquets at that time among them.[40]

Here again there appears to be evidence of the plaid, under the designation of â€œshort cloak,â€ as a separate garment, which, taken in conjunction with Taylorâ€™s description in 1618, affords a strong presumption that its use, along with, but detached from, kilt or trews, was quite common.

In the act and decreet in favour of Thomas Mâ€™Kenzie of Pluscardin against a band of Highlanders who had plundered him and his tenants in the month of June 1649, there are enumerated as among the articles taken away or destroyed:â€”

Item ane whyt plaid worth eight punds With coat and trews and shoes worth four pund scots with four pair of lining sheits worth four pund the pair, ane pair of bed plaids worth twentie four punds tuo coverings worth four punds the peice Ten elne of new lining worth twentie shilling the elne. Item ten elnes of tartan at threttie shilling the elne.[41]

In 1669 the Rev. James Brome, M.A., Rector of Cheriton in Kent, visited Scotland, and in 1700 he published his work. His description of Highland dress and arms is largely adapted from Buchanan, whose work is, indeed, appropriated by many other writers. Bromeâ€™s note is as follows:â€”

TheHighlanders, who inhabit the West part of the Country, in their Language Habit and Manners agree much with the Customs of the WildIrish, and their chief City isElgin, in the County ofMurray, seated upon the Water ofLossy, formerly the Bishop ofMurrayâ€™sSeat, with a Church sumptuously built, but now gone to decay. They go habited in Mantles striped, or streaked with divers colours about their Shoulders, which they callPlodden, with a Coat girt close to their Bodies, and commonly are naked upon their Legs, but wear Sandals upon the Soles of their Feet, and their Women go clad much after the same Fashion: They get their Living mostly by Hunting, Fishing, and Fowling; and when they go to War, the Armour wherewith they cover their Bodies, is a Morion or Bonnet of Iron, and an Habergeon, which comes down almost to their veryHeels; their Weapons against their Enemies are Bows and Arrows, and they are generally reputed good Marks-Men upon all occasions; their Arrows for the most part are barbed or crooked, which once entred within the Body cannot well be drawn out again, unless the Wound be made wider; some of them fight with broad Swords and Axes, and in the room of a Drum make use of a Bag-pipe. They delight much in Musick, but chiefly in Harps and Clarishoes of their own Fashion, the strings of which are made of Brass-Wire, and the strings of their Harps with Sinews, which strings they strike either with their Nails growing long, or else with an Instrument appointed for that use.[42]

Thomas Kirk, of Cookridge, Yorkshire, who made an extensive tour in Scotland in 1677, kept a journal of his observations, and, thanks to his minute description, it becomes possible to demonstrate that the story of the modern invention of the feilebeg or kilt as a separate article of dress is a fabrication. For not only does he describe the kilt precisely, but he notes with great exactness the manner of wearing the plaid, which corresponds in every particular with its use at the present time. Writing at Inverness, he says:â€”

Here we may note the habit of a Highlander: their doublets are slashed in the sleeves, and open on the back; their breeches and stockings are either all on a piece, and straight to them, plaid colour; or otherwise, a sort of breeches, not unlike a petticoat, that reaches not so low, by far, as their knees, and their stockings are rolled up about the calves of their legs, and tied with a garter, their knee and thigh being naked. On their right side they wear a dagger, about a foot or half-a-yard long, the back filed like a saw, and several kinnes (? skeans) struck in the sheath of it; in either pocket a case of iron or brass pistols, a sword about a handful broad, and five feet long, on the other side, and perhaps a gun on one shoulder and a sack of luggage on the other. Thus accoutred, with a plaid over the left shoulder and under the right arm, and a cap a-cock, he struts like a peacock, and rather prides in than disdains his speckled feet.[43]

It is somewhat remarkable that this testimony, which decides the vexed question of the separate use of kilt and plaid prior to the eighteenth century, has hitherto escaped the notice of all writers on the subject.

During the turbulent period of the wars of Montrose and Dundee many bodies of armed Highlanders were imported into the Lowlands. One of the largest, known as the Highland Host, consisted of ten thousand men employed in the repression of the Western Shires. A letter in the Wodrow MSS., Advocatesâ€™ Library, Edinburgh, written under date 1st February 1678, states:â€”

We are now all quartered in and about this town [? Ayr], the Highlanders only in free quarters. It would be truely a pleasant sight, were it at an ordinary weaponshaw, to see this Highland crew. You know the fashion of their wild apparel, not one of ten of themhath breaches, yet hose and shoes are their greatest need and most clever prey, and they spare not to take them every where: In so much that the committee here, and the Counsel with you (as it is said) have ordered some thousands of pairs of shoes to be made to stanch this great spoil. As for their armes and other militarie acoutrements, it is not possible for me to describe them in writing; here you may see head-pieces and steel-bonnets raised like pyramides, and such as a man would affirme they had only found in chamber-boxes; targets and shields of the most odde and anticque forme, and pouder hornes hung in strings, garnished with beaten nails and plates of burnished brass. And truely I doubt not but a man, curious in our antiquities, might in this host finde explications of the strange pieces of armour mentioned in our old lawes, such as bosnet, iron-hat, gorget, pesane, wambrassers, and reerbrassers, panns, leg-splents, and the like, above what any occasion in the Lowlands would have afforded for several hundereds of yeers. Among their ensignes also, besides other singularities, the Glencow men were very remarkable, who had for their ensigne a faire bush of heath, wel-spred and displayed on the head of a staff, such as might have affrighted a Roman eagle.[44]

This letter is especially noteworthy as containing an early reference to the badge or ensign used to distinguish particular clans. The â€œGlencowâ€ menâ€”no doubt the Mac Ians of Glencoe, a sept of the Clan Mac Donaldâ€”â€œhad for their ensign a fair bush of heath,â€ and the badge of the Mac Donalds is still Fraoch or heath. The writerâ€™s description implies that the rank and file of the Highland Host wore the kilt or the belted plaid; those who did not being, of course, the officers, who would wear the trews. That such was the fact is confirmed by what follows.

A sarcastic and amusing description of the Highlanders concerned in the expedition of 1678 was written by Lieut.-Colonel William Cleland (1661-1689), of the Cameronian or Earl of Angusâ€™s Regiment, who was killed fighting the remnant of Viscount Dundeeâ€™s army. Not only does it confirm the description in the Wodrow letter, but it furnishes information of a detailed character as to dress and accoutrements, as the following quotation shows:â€”

But to discrive them right surpassesThe art of nine Parnassus Lasses.* * * * *Their head, their neck, their leggs and thighs:Are influenced by the skies,Without a clout to interrupt themThey need not strip them when they whip them;Nor loose their doublet, when theyâ€™re hangâ€™dIf they be missâ€™d, its sure theyâ€™re wrongâ€™d.* * * * *Their durks hang down between their leggsWhere they made many slopes and geggs;By rubbing on their naked side,And wambling from side to side.But those who were their chief Commanders,As such who bore the pirnie standarts,Who led the van, and drove the rear,Were right well mounted of their gear;With brogues, trues, and pirnie plaides,With good blew bonnets on their heads,Which on the one side had a flipeAdornâ€™d with a tobacco pipe.With durk, and snap-work, and snuff-mill,A bagg which they with onions fill,And, as their strick observers say,A tupe horn fillâ€™d with usquebay;A slasht out coat beneath her plaides,A targe of timber, nails and hides;With a long two handed sword,As goodâ€™s the country can affoord;Had they not need of bulk and bones,Who fight with all these arms at once?Itâ€™s marvelous how in such weather,Ovâ€™r hill and hop they came together;How in such stormes they came so farr;The reason is, theyâ€™re smearâ€™d with tar,Which doth defend them heel and neck,Just as it doth their sheep protect;But least ye doubt that this is true,Theyâ€™re just the colour of tarâ€™d wool.[45]

But to discrive them right surpasses

The art of nine Parnassus Lasses.

* * * * *

Their head, their neck, their leggs and thighs:

Are influenced by the skies,

Without a clout to interrupt them

They need not strip them when they whip them;

Nor loose their doublet, when theyâ€™re hangâ€™d

If they be missâ€™d, its sure theyâ€™re wrongâ€™d.

* * * * *

Their durks hang down between their leggs

Where they made many slopes and geggs;

By rubbing on their naked side,

And wambling from side to side.

But those who were their chief Commanders,

As such who bore the pirnie standarts,

Who led the van, and drove the rear,

Were right well mounted of their gear;

With brogues, trues, and pirnie plaides,

With good blew bonnets on their heads,

Which on the one side had a flipe

Adornâ€™d with a tobacco pipe.

With durk, and snap-work, and snuff-mill,

A bagg which they with onions fill,

And, as their strick observers say,

A tupe horn fillâ€™d with usquebay;

A slasht out coat beneath her plaides,

A targe of timber, nails and hides;

With a long two handed sword,

As goodâ€™s the country can affoord;

Had they not need of bulk and bones,

Who fight with all these arms at once?

Itâ€™s marvelous how in such weather,

Ovâ€™r hill and hop they came together;

How in such stormes they came so farr;

The reason is, theyâ€™re smearâ€™d with tar,

Which doth defend them heel and neck,

Just as it doth their sheep protect;

But least ye doubt that this is true,

Theyâ€™re just the colour of tarâ€™d wool.[45]

Here we have two distinct forms of dressâ€”that of the men, the kilt or the belted plaid, and that of the â€œchief Commanders,â€ who â€œwere right well mounted of their gear; with brogues, trues, and pirnie plaides.â€

But perhaps the most striking evidence that two forms of dress were in use in the Highlands at this time is that supplied by the supporters of the arms of Skene of that Ilk. The blazon of the supporters in the Lyon Register is:â€”

forms of dress for men

On the dexter by a highland man in his proper garb holding a skene with his right hand in a guarding posture, and on the sinister be another in a servill habit his target on the left arm and the darlach by his side.[46]

In the Introduction to theNisbet Plates,[47]the work from which the illustration is taken, it is pointed out that in the Nisbet MS. the description of the supporters runs as follows:â€”

Supported on the dexter by a highland gentleman in his proper garb, holding a skein with his right hand in a guarding posture, and on the sinister by another highlandman in a servill habit, with his target on his left arme and his dorloch be his side.[48]

It is impossible to conceive of evidence of a more conclusive and satisfactory character than that here adduced of the existence of both modes of dress at this period and of the rank of the respective wearers. The original illustration is the work of Robert Wood, an Edinburgh engraver, and in Mr Rossâ€™s Opinion was executed, and Alexander Nisbetâ€™s description above quoted written, 1695-1704.[49]

The Grameid, written in 1691, contains many references to the clothing and uniforms of the Highland army serving under Viscount Dundee. From the shoulder of Keppoch â€œhung the tartan plaid.â€ The inhabitants of the Hebrides are clothed â€œin yellow and blue.â€ Dundee, addressing the leaders, bids them â€œdraw out your clans in their saffron array upon the plain,â€ and speaks of â€œthe plaided race of Grampian giants.â€ General Mackay is represented as concluding â€œthat he had subdued the tartaned bands of ancient Albion.â€ A most explicit description is that of the followers of Glengarry, â€œthree hundred illustrious youths in the first flower of vigorous manhood, each of whom a tartan garb covers, woven with Phrygian skill in triple stripe, and as a garment clothes their broad chests and flanks. A helmet defends the temples of the men. A coloured plaid veils their shoulders, and otherwise they are naked.... Following him closely comes his brother Allan, the brave, with a hundred men all clothed in garments interwoven with the red stripe, their brawny calves bound with the red buskin.â€ Of Locheil, the poet says, â€œhis tartan hose are gartered round his calf.â€ Mâ€™Martin in â€œvariegated array advances with lofty mienâ€; the garter ribbons â€œhanging at his leg were dyed with Corycian saffron, and with the tint of the Tyrian shell, as was his plaid.â€ Of Mac Lean of Duart and his brother Alexander â€œthe flowing plaid with yellow stripe covers the shoulders of both the brothers.â€ Mac Neill of Barra â€œdisplays as many colours woven into his plaid as the rainbow in the clouds shows in the sunlight.â€ The Mac Leods ofRaasay advance â€œwith plumed heads erect, and shoulders covered with girded plaid.â€ The Dougals of Craignish â€œall carry the brazen-hilted sword, and wear the girded plaid.â€ â€œThe whole plaided forces of the Highland chiefs, both horse and foot, the entire body take post.â€ Dundee beholds his â€œbands gleaming with brass, and admires the companies in their brilliant colours, and is refreshed by the sharp note of the pipe.â€ The â€œtartaned hostâ€ pours itself out upon the field. In sight of their opponents the Highland warriors â€œdraw their swords, and, extended on the plain, they move in ordered ranks; they cast their brogues of bullâ€™s hide, and make a pile of their plaids, and thus stripped, prepare for the battle.â€ General Mackay takes counsel how he â€œwill overwhelm the tartaned lines of the target-bearing Scotâ€; while the poet writes of the march of his opponents, â€œthe whole body of the Highlanders is formed into one column, and forthwith the cavalry mount their horses, and the whole plaided army, with floating banners, went forth from the deserted camp into the open plain.â€[50]

It appears from various references that the trews and the belted plaid were sometimes worn together. On a powder-horn which belonged to the late James Drummond, R.S.A., and now in the Museum of the Society of Antiquaries in Edinburgh, there are figures in the Highland dress, and one of these seems to illustrate this mode. As to the age of the relic, Mr Drummond, in a communication to the Society in April 1872, gave various reasons for believing it to have been the property of Sir George Mackenzie of Tarbat, who was born in 1630. Again, in an extract from a MS. stated to have been in the possession of Dr. Mac Lean, Oban, giving an account of the battle of Killiecrankie, it is stated that John Macrae of Inversheil, having been struck in the thigh by a musket shotâ€”

The ball having carried into the wound the cloth of his belted plade, and the trewes that he wore under them, the woolen did so wrankle the flesh, that with his hard travail, and need of a chirurgeon, it was long after before he got cured.[51]

In fact, so late as 1746, when Prince Charles Edward embarked on his return to France, a letter written by Colonel Warren, and preserved among the Stuart papers, records that he was dressed in â€œa threadbare coat of coarse black frieze, tartan trews, and over them a belted plaid.â€

In 1688 William Sacheverell, Governor of the Isle of Man, visited Mulland other Western Islands, and his account is valuable and interesting because it is fair in its criticism and accurate in its description; and it affords evidence of the general use of the belted plaid, to the exclusion of the trews, among the common people. Sacheverell superintended the efforts made to recover the guns and other fittings of theFlorida, one of the scattered vessels of the Spanish Armada, blown up, according to the traditions of the Mac Leans, by Donald Glas, son of Mac Lean of Morvern, in Tobermory Bay in 1588. Thus he had ample opportunity of noting the costume and manners of the natives of Mull and other Highlanders, of whom he writes:â€”

During my stay I generally observed the men to be large-bodied, stout, subtle, active, patient of cold and hunger. There appeared in all their actions a certain generous air of freedom, and contempt of those trifles, luxury and ambition, which we so servilely creep after. They bound their appetites by their necessities, and their happiness consists, not in having much, but in coveting little. The women seem to have the same sentiments with the men; though their habits were mean and they had not our sort of breeding, yet in many of them there was a natural beauty and a graceful modesty, which never fails of attracting. The usual habit of both sexes is the pladd; the womenâ€™s much finer, the colours more lively, and the squares larger than the menâ€™s, and put me in mind of the ancient Picts. This serves them for a veil, and covers both head and body. The men wear theirs after another manner; especially when designed for ornament, it is loose and flowing, like the mantles our painters give their heroes. Their thighs are bare, with brawny muscles. Nature has drawn all her strokes bold and masterly; what is covered is only adapted to necessity; a thin brogue on the foot, a short buskin of various colours on the legg, tied above the calf with a striped pair of garters. What should be concealed is hid with a large shot-pouch, on each side of which hangs a pistol and a dagger; as if they found it necessary to keep those parts well guarded. A round target on their backs, a blew bonnet on their heads, in one hand a broadsword, and a musquet in the other, perhaps no nation goes better armed; and I assure you they will handle them with bravery and dexterity, especially the sword and target, as our veteran regiments found to their cost at Gille Crankee.[52]

In the closing years of the seventeenth century the Western Isles of Scotland were visited by a traveller, who has left the most complete account of the people and their manner of life which had been written up to that date. The author, Martin, undertook the journey with the specific purpose of recording particulars concerning the people; and, as his work evinces careful observation, reliance may be placed on his description of their dress at the time of his visit. It supplies the first indication, in any book of travel, of the use of special colours or setts for tartans used in different localities.

The first Habit wore by Persons of Distinction in the Islands, was theLeni-Croich, from theIrishwordLeni, which signifies a Shirt, andCroichSaffron, because their Shirt was dyed with that Herb: the ordinary number of Ells usâ€™d to make this Robe, was twenty four; it was the upper Garb, reaching below the Knees, and was tied with a Belt round the middle: but the Islanders have laid it aside about a hundred Years ago.They now generally use Coat, Wastcoat, and Breeches, as elsewhere; and on their Heads wear Bonnets made of thick Cloth, some blue, some black, and some grey.Many of the People wearTrowis: some have them very fine woven like Stockings of those made of Cloth; some are colourâ€™d, and others striped: the latter are as well shapâ€™d as the former, lying close to the Body from the middle downwards, and tied round with a Belt above the Haunches. There is a square Piece of Cloth which hangs down before. The Measure for shaping theTrowisis a Stick of Wood, whose Length is a Cubit, and that divided into the Length of a Finger, and half a Finger; so that it requires more Skill to make it than the ordinary Habit.The Shoes antiently wore, were a piece of the Hide of a Deer, Cow, or Horse, with the Hair on, being tied behind and before with a Point of Leather. The generality now wear Shoes, having one thin Sole only, and shaped after the right and left Foot; so that what is for one Foot, will not serve the other.But Persons of Distinction wear the Garb in Fashion in the South ofScotland.ThePladwore only by the Men, is made of fine Wool, the Thred as fine as can be made of that kind; it consists of divers Colours, and there is a great deal of Ingenuity requirâ€™d in sorting the Colours, so as to be agreeable to the nicest Fancy. For this reason the Women are at great pains, first to give an exact Pattern of thePladupon a piece of Wood, having the number of every Thred of the Stripe on it. The Length of it is commonly seven double Ells; the one end hangs by the Middle over the left Arm, the other going round the Body, hangs by the end over the left Arm also; the right Hand above it is to be at liberty to do any thing upon occasion. Every Isle differs from each other in their Fancy of makingPlads, as to the Stripes in Breadth, and Colours. This Humour is as different thro the main Land of theHighlands, in-so-far that they who have seen those Places, are able, at the first View of a Manâ€™sPlad, to guess the Place of his Residence.When they travel on foot, thePladis tied on the Breast with a Bodkin of Bone or Wood (just as theSpinawore by theGermans, according to the Description ofC. Tacitus:) thePladis tied round the middle with a Leather Belt; it is pleated from the Belt to the Knee very nicely: this Dress for Footmen is found much easier and lighter thanBreeches, orTrowis.The antient Dress wore by the Women, and which is yet wore by some of the Vulgar, calledArisad, is a whitePlad, having a few small Stripes of black, blue, and red; it reachâ€™d from the Neck to the Heels, and was tied before on the Breast with a Buckle of Silver, or Brass, according to the Quality of the Person. I have seen some of the former of an hundred Marks value; it was broad as any ordinary Pewter Plate, the wholecuriously engraven with various Animals,&c.There was a lesser Buckle, which was wore in the middle of the larger, and above two Ounces weight; it had in the Center a large piece of Chrystal, or some finer Stone, and this was set all round with several finer Stones of a lesser size.ThePladbeing pleated all round, was tied with a Belt below the Breast; the Belt was of Leather, and several Pieces of Silver intermixâ€™d with the Leather like a Chain. The lower end of the Belt has a Piece of Plate about eight Inches long, and three in breadth, curiously engraven; the end of which was adorned with fine Stones, or Pieces of Red Coral. They wore Sleeves of Scarlet Cloth, closâ€™d at the end as Mens Vests, with Gold Lace round â€™em, having Plate Buttons set with fine Stones. The Head-dress was a fineKerchiefof Linen strait about the Head, hanging down the Back taper-wise; a large Lock of Hair hangs down their Cheeks above their Breast, the lower end tied with a Knot of Ribbands....The antient way of Fighting was by set Battles; and for Arms some had broad two-handed Swords and Head-pieces, and others Bows and Arrows. When all their Arrows were spent, they attackâ€™d one another with Sword in hand. Since the Invention of Guns, they are very early accustomed to use them, and carry their Pieces with them where-ever they go: They likewise learn to handle the broad Sword and Target. TheChiefof each Tribe advances with his Followers within shot of the Enemy, having first laid aside their upper Garments; and after one general Discharge, they attack them with Sword in hand, having their Target on their left Hand (as they did atKelicranky) which soon brings the Matter to an Issue, and verifies the Observation made of â€™em [by] your Historians:Aut Mors cito, aut Victoria lÃ¦ta.[53]

They now generally use Coat, Wastcoat, and Breeches, as elsewhere; and on their Heads wear Bonnets made of thick Cloth, some blue, some black, and some grey.

Many of the People wearTrowis: some have them very fine woven like Stockings of those made of Cloth; some are colourâ€™d, and others striped: the latter are as well shapâ€™d as the former, lying close to the Body from the middle downwards, and tied round with a Belt above the Haunches. There is a square Piece of Cloth which hangs down before. The Measure for shaping theTrowisis a Stick of Wood, whose Length is a Cubit, and that divided into the Length of a Finger, and half a Finger; so that it requires more Skill to make it than the ordinary Habit.

The Shoes antiently wore, were a piece of the Hide of a Deer, Cow, or Horse, with the Hair on, being tied behind and before with a Point of Leather. The generality now wear Shoes, having one thin Sole only, and shaped after the right and left Foot; so that what is for one Foot, will not serve the other.

But Persons of Distinction wear the Garb in Fashion in the South ofScotland.

ThePladwore only by the Men, is made of fine Wool, the Thred as fine as can be made of that kind; it consists of divers Colours, and there is a great deal of Ingenuity requirâ€™d in sorting the Colours, so as to be agreeable to the nicest Fancy. For this reason the Women are at great pains, first to give an exact Pattern of thePladupon a piece of Wood, having the number of every Thred of the Stripe on it. The Length of it is commonly seven double Ells; the one end hangs by the Middle over the left Arm, the other going round the Body, hangs by the end over the left Arm also; the right Hand above it is to be at liberty to do any thing upon occasion. Every Isle differs from each other in their Fancy of makingPlads, as to the Stripes in Breadth, and Colours. This Humour is as different thro the main Land of theHighlands, in-so-far that they who have seen those Places, are able, at the first View of a Manâ€™sPlad, to guess the Place of his Residence.

When they travel on foot, thePladis tied on the Breast with a Bodkin of Bone or Wood (just as theSpinawore by theGermans, according to the Description ofC. Tacitus:) thePladis tied round the middle with a Leather Belt; it is pleated from the Belt to the Knee very nicely: this Dress for Footmen is found much easier and lighter thanBreeches, orTrowis.

The antient Dress wore by the Women, and which is yet wore by some of the Vulgar, calledArisad, is a whitePlad, having a few small Stripes of black, blue, and red; it reachâ€™d from the Neck to the Heels, and was tied before on the Breast with a Buckle of Silver, or Brass, according to the Quality of the Person. I have seen some of the former of an hundred Marks value; it was broad as any ordinary Pewter Plate, the wholecuriously engraven with various Animals,&c.There was a lesser Buckle, which was wore in the middle of the larger, and above two Ounces weight; it had in the Center a large piece of Chrystal, or some finer Stone, and this was set all round with several finer Stones of a lesser size.

ThePladbeing pleated all round, was tied with a Belt below the Breast; the Belt was of Leather, and several Pieces of Silver intermixâ€™d with the Leather like a Chain. The lower end of the Belt has a Piece of Plate about eight Inches long, and three in breadth, curiously engraven; the end of which was adorned with fine Stones, or Pieces of Red Coral. They wore Sleeves of Scarlet Cloth, closâ€™d at the end as Mens Vests, with Gold Lace round â€™em, having Plate Buttons set with fine Stones. The Head-dress was a fineKerchiefof Linen strait about the Head, hanging down the Back taper-wise; a large Lock of Hair hangs down their Cheeks above their Breast, the lower end tied with a Knot of Ribbands....

The antient way of Fighting was by set Battles; and for Arms some had broad two-handed Swords and Head-pieces, and others Bows and Arrows. When all their Arrows were spent, they attackâ€™d one another with Sword in hand. Since the Invention of Guns, they are very early accustomed to use them, and carry their Pieces with them where-ever they go: They likewise learn to handle the broad Sword and Target. TheChiefof each Tribe advances with his Followers within shot of the Enemy, having first laid aside their upper Garments; and after one general Discharge, they attack them with Sword in hand, having their Target on their left Hand (as they did atKelicranky) which soon brings the Matter to an Issue, and verifies the Observation made of â€™em [by] your Historians:

Aut Mors cito, aut Victoria lÃ¦ta.[53]

Certainly this is evidence of the employment of fixed designs and special colours in the tartans, as well by the Islanders as by the Highlanders of the mainland; and many have held it to settle the question of their use as clan distinctions at that period. At all events, it shows that district tartans were in use in Martinâ€™s day, and that their colourings furnished an indication of the localities whence the wearers came.

It is out of the question to suppose that the tartans described by Martin sprang into being in his day. On the contrary, all the evidence we possessâ€”proving, as it does, the extremely conservative character of the inhabitants of the Western Islandsâ€”points to the conclusion that Martin was the witness, at the end of the seventeenth century, of habits and customs in use long previously.

Of the existence of a uniform clan pattern at the very commencement of the eighteenth century there is a complete chain of evidence. CaptainHamilton writes from Inverness, 23rd July 1703, to Brigadier-General Maitland, Governor of Fort-William:â€”

I wrote to you Tuesday last in answer to your last letter to me, but I neglected to acquaint you of our news here. The thing is there is a match of Hunting to be as is said against 2nd of next month amongst several of our great folks, particularly the Duke of Hamilton is to be there, the Marquis of Athole, and our neighbour the Laird of Grant, who has ordered 600 of his men in arms, in good order, with Tartane Coats all of one colour and fashion. This is his order to his people in Straithspey. If it be a match at Hunting only I know not, but I think it my duty to acquaint you, whatever may fall out, of any such body of men in arms, particularly in our Northern Parts.[54]

The following entries in the Court Books of the Regality of Grant, 1703-1710, are given in full, because they are of the utmost importance, and have never hitherto been accurately quoted. Among others, Sir William Fraser, in hisChiefs of Grant, refers merely to the second entry, and that incorrectly:â€”

Court of the Lordship of the parochine of Duthell holden at Duthell the 20 July 1704 be Duncan Grant of Mullochard bailie constitute be the Right HonollAlexrGrant of that Ilk your bailie principall of the Regalitie of Grant David Blair notar and clerk to the said Regalitie Court of the District of Duthell. Suites called and the Court lawfullie fenced and affirmed.

The said day Ronald Makdonald of Gelloway and Archibald Makdonald of Tulloch Crombie wassales of Lugan in Badzenoch to the Right HonollLudovick Grant of that Ilk and the tennantes and indwellers on these landes are ordained to have readie tartan short coates trewes and short hose of red and grein set dyce all broad springed betuixt and the eight of August nixt and to be readie upon 48 hours advertisement to rendevouze when the Laird of Grant shall call them for his hosting or hunteing under the failie of fyve pounds sterling.(Signed) D. GRANT, B.

(Signed) D. GRANT, B.

Court of the Landes of Tulchine and Skeiradvey, holdine at Delay upon the 27 July 1704 be William Grant of Delay bailie of the saids lands constitute be the Right Honollthe Laird of Grant heretor of the saidis landis, David Blair notar and clerk; James Gedlie officer. Suites called and the court lawfully fenced and affirmed.The said day by ordor from the Laird of Grant younger the said bailie ordanes and enacts that the haill tennantes cottars malenders tradesmen and servantes within the saidis landis of Skearadvie Tulchine and Calender that are fencible men shall provyd and have in readiness against the eight day of August nixt ilk ane of them Heighland coates trewesand short hoes of tartane of red and greine sett broad springed and also with gun sword pistoll and durk, and with these present themselves to ane rendewouze when called upone 48 hours advertisement within the country of Strathspey, for the said Laird of Grant or his faither their hosting and hunteing. And this under the failie of twenty poundes Scotis ilk ane that shall faill in the premisses. And the Master to outrig the servantes in the saids coates trewes and hose out of their fies.[55]

The said day by ordor from the Laird of Grant younger the said bailie ordanes and enacts that the haill tennantes cottars malenders tradesmen and servantes within the saidis landis of Skearadvie Tulchine and Calender that are fencible men shall provyd and have in readiness against the eight day of August nixt ilk ane of them Heighland coates trewesand short hoes of tartane of red and greine sett broad springed and also with gun sword pistoll and durk, and with these present themselves to ane rendewouze when called upone 48 hours advertisement within the country of Strathspey, for the said Laird of Grant or his faither their hosting and hunteing. And this under the failie of twenty poundes Scotis ilk ane that shall faill in the premisses. And the Master to outrig the servantes in the saids coates trewes and hose out of their fies.[55]

A very curious and somewhat puzzling state of affairs is disclosed by a minute examination of the fine series of family portraits preserved at Castle Grant.[56]Of these portraits no fewer than ten were painted by Richard Waitt, namely, Brigadier Grant of Grant and Donald Grant of Glenbeg, in 1713; Patrick Grant of Miltown, Mungo Grant of Mulloch-hard, â€”â€” Grant of Delbuaick, David Grant of Delbuaick, Patrick Grant of Tullochgriban, Alister Grant â€œMohr,â€ and the Piper to the Laird of Grant, in 1714; and John Grant of Burnside, in 1725. Besides these, Waitt painted other Grant portraits in tartan attire. By permission of the Countess of Seafield, coloured drawings of these have been made, and comparison discovers a variety of design well-nigh as great as would be the case in an equal number of examples selected at random from as many different families. In one particular alone do they agree, and that is in the absence of any completely dark-coloured sett, such as is usually designated â€œuaineâ€ or green. It is not till after the â€™45 that there is an instance of any member of the clan wearing the so-called undress Grant tartan, now the familiar â€œForty-Secondâ€ or Black Watch pattern.

Similar remarks might be made concerning other family portraits. For example, in the Mac Donald portraits at Armadale there are at least six distinct setts of tartan. The Campbell portraits at Loudoun Castle and Langton House exhibit equal diversity, while differing at the same time from any of the Campbell setts at present in use. In the same way the pictures of the Sutherland family at Dunrobin and Barrogill, the Mac Donell portraits at Balgownie, the Mac Leod at Dunvegan, the Drummond at Gordon Castle and Drummond Castle, the Macpherson at Cluny, the Frasers in Inverness-shire, show remarkable variety of arrangement and colouring. Whatever the reason of this, it assuredly did not arise from carelessness or ignorance on the part of the artists employed. On the contrary, in the great majority of the pictures referred to, painful attention has been paid to minuteness and accuracy in details of the dress, and the sett of a tartan is reproduced indifferent portions of the costume with a faithfulness which leaves no room for doubt that the artists were studiously copying distinct patterns.

The importance of the tartan manufacture to Scotland in the beginning of the eighteenth century is evident from the following:â€”

In this place itâ€™s proper to mention their Plaids, a Manufacture wherein they exceed all Nations, both as to Colour and Fineness. They have of late been pretty much fancyâ€™d in England, and are very ornamental as well as durable for Beds, Hangings, Window-Curtains and Night-Gowns for Men and Women; so that Attempts have been made in England to resemble them, at Norwich and elsewhere, but they fall much short both in Colour, Fineness, and Workmanship, as is evident at first sight. A good improvement may be made of this manufacture for domestick use and export, now that the prohibition is removâ€™d by the Union. The stronger sort of those Plaids is the usual Cloathing for their Men in the Highlands, where they never alter the form of their Habit, which, to other People, seems uncouth, because not usâ€™d elsewhere; yet it must be ownâ€™d, that as they are usâ€™d by those of the better sort in the Highlands, they make a manly as well as a decent Habit.[57]

InA Journey through Scotland, undertaken between 1716 and 1723, occurs this description of the cattle fair at Crieff and of the dress of the Highland gentlemen and their followers, which confirms in all particulars the other accounts of the use of tartan at the period, and the distinction between the dress of the upper and lower orders:â€”

The Highland Fair of Criff happening when I was at Stirling, I had the Curiosity to go see it. There were at least Thirty Thousand Cattle sold there, most of them to English Drovers; who paid down above Thirty Thousand Guineas in ready Money to the Highlanders; a Sum they had never seen before, and proves one good Effect of the Union. The Highland Gentlemen were mighty civil, dressâ€™d in their slashâ€™d short Wastcoats, a Trousing, (which is, Breeches and Stockings of one Piece of stripâ€™d Stuff) with a Plaid for a Cloak, and a blue Bonnet. They have a Ponyard Knife and Fork in one Sheath, hanging at one side of their Belt, their Pistol at the other, and their Snuff-Mill before; with a great broad Sword by their side. Their Attendance [attendants] were very numerous, all in belted Plaids, girt like Womens Petticoats down to the Knee; their Thighs and Half of the Leg all bare. They had also each their broad Sword and Ponyard, and spake all Irish, an unintelligible Language to the English.[58]

It appears from the regulations issued to the retainers of the Clan Grant anent the wearing of a uniform tartan that distinctive patterns were in use, at least for military purposes, or on occasions of great gatherings, early in the eighteenth century. That widespread attention was at that periodbestowed upon particular arrangements of tartan appears from a letter quoted by Sir Walter Scott, dated from the Manse of Comrie, 2nd July 1717:â€”

I give your lady hearty thanks for the highland plaid. Its good cloath but it does not answer the sett I sent some time agoe with McArthur.

This implies, at the least, in a district on the southern border of the Highlands, adhesion to particular patterns, just as in Martinâ€™s account of the Western Islands, already quoted, the existence of district setts is proved by the use of the words â€œable, at the first view of a manâ€™s plad, to guess the place of his residence.â€

Alexander Nisbet, the great herald, referring to the supporters of Macpherson of Cluny, writes:â€”

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