CHAPTER XXIX.The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short route to Erzeroum—Dudusa—The Kizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass replaced by alabaster—A raid on an Armenian village—The robbers caught—Women said to have been outraged—Kotnu—An accident—The Zaptiehs out of temper—Mohammed's appetite—A comparison between Mohammed and Osman.On leaving the monastery, we rode to the principal mosque of the town. I was struck by seeing a large ostrich egg suspended from the ceiling by a silver chain. On my asking the Turk who showed me over the building, why this egg was hung there, he replied,—"Effendi, the ostrich always looks at the eggs which she lays; if one of them is bad, she breaks it. This egg is suspended here as a warning to men that, if they are bad, God will break them in the same way as the ostrich does her eggs."Mohammed met me as I was returning to my house. He was very much excited."What is the matter?" I inquired."Effendi, a regiment is about to march to Erzeroum. It will be a grand sight. The Pacha will accompany it out of the town. The dancing dervishes will go before the band. Other dervishes will be there with sharp knives; they will cut themselves, but the blood will not flow! It will be a miracle! And all this we can see from the Effendi's window!""Happy are you, O Mohammed, to be able to see such wonderful sights without paying for them," I remarked; then, giving him my horse, I went upstairs to my room.An immense crowd had gathered in the square; the part facing the barracks was thronged by hundreds of idlers who were eagerly pressing against the gates. Presently they were thrown wide open. The governor, in his dray-like carriage, issued from the portals. He was accompanied by the colonel of the regiment, who was mounted on a superb grey, and rode by the side of the Pacha's vehicle.Next came six dancing dervishes clad in sackcloth, and with long cowls over their green turbans. They in their turn were followed byabout twenty men—some carrying what appeared to be bill-hooks—others, maces with leaden balls attached to them by chains, and bright steel skewers."This is delightful!" said Mohammed, who, by way of seeing better, had climbed on to the top of the divan, torn away the piece of paper which supplied the place of a pane of glass, and, having thrust his head and shoulders through the aperture, was staring with his mouth wide open at the procession."Please God they will soon begin to cut themselves!"However, he was doomed to disappointment; the dervishes had already cut themselves in the barrack-yard, and were not inclined to repeat the performance.On they went in serried ranks, followed by the troopers, all of whom were excellently mounted on horses averaging about fifteen hands, and which looked in capital condition. The men were armed with American revolvers and repeating-rifles, whilst a short curved scimitar hung by each man's side."How long will it be before they reach Erzeroum?" I inquired of Mohammed."About a month," was the answer; "but theyare going by a short route by Kara Hissar, and we by Divriki, Arabkir, and Egin, which will be a long way round. We shall arrive first at our destination, as the regiment will not march more than sixteen miles a day."The Pacha ordered his coachman to draw up the carriage on one side of the road; the dervishes raised a mournful yell. The regiment, passing onward, was lost to view behind an avenue of poplars.The following morning I started at daybreak in the direction of Dudusa, a village about five hours from Sivas. For some distance we marched alongside the left bank of the Kizil Ermak. The track was very heavy. The baggage-horses had great difficulty in making a way through the mud. Presently we came upon some firm soil. The scenery changed from a flat expanse of plough-land to a winding chain of rugged heights. Chain succeeded chain. Snowy crests were piled up in rear of each other like the billows of the deep. Our path led round these mountain peaks. From time to time we caught a glimpse of the Kizil Ermak, which, white as silver, flowed through the vale at our feet. Nature's walls on all sides of us were of every colour; at every moment, red, blue, and grey sandstone met our gaze.We round a neighbouring crag; a vast rock of the purest marble lies before our party. Huge blocks strew the borders of the path; they sparkle beneath the sky, and rival in their Parian whiteness the snowy heights overhead. On the summit of an adjacent hill is the monastery of Dudusa, and at its foot the village of the same name, made up of straggling houses, built at long intervals apart—some of mud and marble; others—where the inhabitants had been too idle to transport the blocks from the adjacent rock—of dried clay; and a few of the abodes of the better-to-do farmers actually boasting glass windows! In other houses the panes were replaced by paper or pieces of some transparent alabaster, which is found in large quantities in the neighbourhood.Dudusa is an Armenian village. I now learnt that Issek Pacha was very popular amongst the villagers. I must say that I was a little surprised at this, after the way the Armenians in Sivas had abused their governor. Two months previous, some Turks, from a neighbouring hamlet, had made a raid on the flocks belonging to the inhabitants of Dudusa, and had carried off fifty sheep. Information of the robbery was given to the Pacha, he at once sent out a party of soldiers.The robbers had been arrested. They were expiating their offence in prison.I had heard at Sivas that a redif battalion which had lately marched to Erzeroum had outraged some women near Dudusa. I took the opportunity to inquire if the story were true. Like many other statements which had been made to me by the so-called Christians in Anatolia, it turned out to be a fiction. The redif soldiers had passed that way. The only thing which could be said against them was that they had not paid for the bread with which they had been supplied, as the military authorities had not given them any money. There were no officers with the troops, but the men had given the name of their regiment. On application to head-quarters, the amount due would be transmitted to the villagers.I did not stay long at Dudusa, but, after lunching at the priest's house, continued the march towards Kotnu, another village about twenty-seven miles, or about nine hours from the capital of the province.It was dusk long ere we reached our halting-place. In passing over a narrow wooden bridge, one of my horses put his foot down a hole between the planks, and nearly broke his leg. Misfortunes never come singly. A moment later, the poor brutestrayed a few yards from the track. He was at once bogged in the treacherous soil. Everything had to be unstrapped from the saddle, a rope was attached to his surcingle, and then, by means of the other horses, he was dragged from the slimy trammels. It was hard work loading him again.The thermometer had fallen to considerably below zero. The wind howled and blew the snowy flakes in our faces. The horses would not stand still. Our matches were wet through. We could not light them. Under such circumstances we had to arrange the baggage.The Zaptiehs who had been sent to act as guides would not help; they sat still, cursing their destiny which had made them accompany a mad giaour like myself, who had chosen to travel from Scutari to Kars all the way by land, instead of going the greater part of the distance by sea, like a sensible true believer. I have but little doubt that the same train of thought was passing through Mohammed's and Radford's mind. However, the latter never flinched, and Mohammed had evidently won his friendship, for, on my asking my English servant how he liked his new companion, he replied, "Sir, he is worth three of Osman at any time, save praying-times, and then there isnot a pin to choose between them. They must be awful sinners, these Mohammedans, if they require five prayers a day to settle the account with their consciences. Mohammed ain't that artful as Osman was. He don't choose the moment when there is work to be done, to set to work at his victuals, or to flop down on his knees to say his prayers. Mohammed has his pray all to himself afterwards, and then it don't so much signify!""What! Has not Mohammed so good an appetite as Osman?""No, sir, Mohammed has more of a Christian's appetite; he is satisfied with what I put before him, he don't go prigging out of the tin like that there other Turk. Why, I watched Osman one day eating a chicken which I had kept back for your supper! A few days before, I had missed one out of the pot, and had taxed him with it; he then said, 'keupek,' dog, as if a dog would go and lift up the lid of the tin! I used to call Osman 'keupek' afterwards, and he did not seem to like it. The other Turks, when they want to give it a fellow, tell him that he is the grandson of a dog; but I called Osman the original animal—dirty hound that he was too—quite spoiled my coat, that he did!"And my servant, lighting a short wooden pipe, the wonder of the Turks, smoked furiously—the rapidity of his puffs probably denoting an extreme dislike to his late fellow-servant.
The principal mosque—An ostrich egg—Curious custom—The dancing dervishes—A regiment of cavalry leaves Sivas—The arms of the men—Appearance of the horses—A short route to Erzeroum—Dudusa—The Kizil Ermak—Scenery—Glass replaced by alabaster—A raid on an Armenian village—The robbers caught—Women said to have been outraged—Kotnu—An accident—The Zaptiehs out of temper—Mohammed's appetite—A comparison between Mohammed and Osman.
On leaving the monastery, we rode to the principal mosque of the town. I was struck by seeing a large ostrich egg suspended from the ceiling by a silver chain. On my asking the Turk who showed me over the building, why this egg was hung there, he replied,—
"Effendi, the ostrich always looks at the eggs which she lays; if one of them is bad, she breaks it. This egg is suspended here as a warning to men that, if they are bad, God will break them in the same way as the ostrich does her eggs."
Mohammed met me as I was returning to my house. He was very much excited.
"What is the matter?" I inquired.
"Effendi, a regiment is about to march to Erzeroum. It will be a grand sight. The Pacha will accompany it out of the town. The dancing dervishes will go before the band. Other dervishes will be there with sharp knives; they will cut themselves, but the blood will not flow! It will be a miracle! And all this we can see from the Effendi's window!"
"Happy are you, O Mohammed, to be able to see such wonderful sights without paying for them," I remarked; then, giving him my horse, I went upstairs to my room.
An immense crowd had gathered in the square; the part facing the barracks was thronged by hundreds of idlers who were eagerly pressing against the gates. Presently they were thrown wide open. The governor, in his dray-like carriage, issued from the portals. He was accompanied by the colonel of the regiment, who was mounted on a superb grey, and rode by the side of the Pacha's vehicle.
Next came six dancing dervishes clad in sackcloth, and with long cowls over their green turbans. They in their turn were followed byabout twenty men—some carrying what appeared to be bill-hooks—others, maces with leaden balls attached to them by chains, and bright steel skewers.
"This is delightful!" said Mohammed, who, by way of seeing better, had climbed on to the top of the divan, torn away the piece of paper which supplied the place of a pane of glass, and, having thrust his head and shoulders through the aperture, was staring with his mouth wide open at the procession.
"Please God they will soon begin to cut themselves!"
However, he was doomed to disappointment; the dervishes had already cut themselves in the barrack-yard, and were not inclined to repeat the performance.
On they went in serried ranks, followed by the troopers, all of whom were excellently mounted on horses averaging about fifteen hands, and which looked in capital condition. The men were armed with American revolvers and repeating-rifles, whilst a short curved scimitar hung by each man's side.
"How long will it be before they reach Erzeroum?" I inquired of Mohammed.
"About a month," was the answer; "but theyare going by a short route by Kara Hissar, and we by Divriki, Arabkir, and Egin, which will be a long way round. We shall arrive first at our destination, as the regiment will not march more than sixteen miles a day."
The Pacha ordered his coachman to draw up the carriage on one side of the road; the dervishes raised a mournful yell. The regiment, passing onward, was lost to view behind an avenue of poplars.
The following morning I started at daybreak in the direction of Dudusa, a village about five hours from Sivas. For some distance we marched alongside the left bank of the Kizil Ermak. The track was very heavy. The baggage-horses had great difficulty in making a way through the mud. Presently we came upon some firm soil. The scenery changed from a flat expanse of plough-land to a winding chain of rugged heights. Chain succeeded chain. Snowy crests were piled up in rear of each other like the billows of the deep. Our path led round these mountain peaks. From time to time we caught a glimpse of the Kizil Ermak, which, white as silver, flowed through the vale at our feet. Nature's walls on all sides of us were of every colour; at every moment, red, blue, and grey sandstone met our gaze.
We round a neighbouring crag; a vast rock of the purest marble lies before our party. Huge blocks strew the borders of the path; they sparkle beneath the sky, and rival in their Parian whiteness the snowy heights overhead. On the summit of an adjacent hill is the monastery of Dudusa, and at its foot the village of the same name, made up of straggling houses, built at long intervals apart—some of mud and marble; others—where the inhabitants had been too idle to transport the blocks from the adjacent rock—of dried clay; and a few of the abodes of the better-to-do farmers actually boasting glass windows! In other houses the panes were replaced by paper or pieces of some transparent alabaster, which is found in large quantities in the neighbourhood.
Dudusa is an Armenian village. I now learnt that Issek Pacha was very popular amongst the villagers. I must say that I was a little surprised at this, after the way the Armenians in Sivas had abused their governor. Two months previous, some Turks, from a neighbouring hamlet, had made a raid on the flocks belonging to the inhabitants of Dudusa, and had carried off fifty sheep. Information of the robbery was given to the Pacha, he at once sent out a party of soldiers.The robbers had been arrested. They were expiating their offence in prison.
I had heard at Sivas that a redif battalion which had lately marched to Erzeroum had outraged some women near Dudusa. I took the opportunity to inquire if the story were true. Like many other statements which had been made to me by the so-called Christians in Anatolia, it turned out to be a fiction. The redif soldiers had passed that way. The only thing which could be said against them was that they had not paid for the bread with which they had been supplied, as the military authorities had not given them any money. There were no officers with the troops, but the men had given the name of their regiment. On application to head-quarters, the amount due would be transmitted to the villagers.
I did not stay long at Dudusa, but, after lunching at the priest's house, continued the march towards Kotnu, another village about twenty-seven miles, or about nine hours from the capital of the province.
It was dusk long ere we reached our halting-place. In passing over a narrow wooden bridge, one of my horses put his foot down a hole between the planks, and nearly broke his leg. Misfortunes never come singly. A moment later, the poor brutestrayed a few yards from the track. He was at once bogged in the treacherous soil. Everything had to be unstrapped from the saddle, a rope was attached to his surcingle, and then, by means of the other horses, he was dragged from the slimy trammels. It was hard work loading him again.
The thermometer had fallen to considerably below zero. The wind howled and blew the snowy flakes in our faces. The horses would not stand still. Our matches were wet through. We could not light them. Under such circumstances we had to arrange the baggage.
The Zaptiehs who had been sent to act as guides would not help; they sat still, cursing their destiny which had made them accompany a mad giaour like myself, who had chosen to travel from Scutari to Kars all the way by land, instead of going the greater part of the distance by sea, like a sensible true believer. I have but little doubt that the same train of thought was passing through Mohammed's and Radford's mind. However, the latter never flinched, and Mohammed had evidently won his friendship, for, on my asking my English servant how he liked his new companion, he replied, "Sir, he is worth three of Osman at any time, save praying-times, and then there isnot a pin to choose between them. They must be awful sinners, these Mohammedans, if they require five prayers a day to settle the account with their consciences. Mohammed ain't that artful as Osman was. He don't choose the moment when there is work to be done, to set to work at his victuals, or to flop down on his knees to say his prayers. Mohammed has his pray all to himself afterwards, and then it don't so much signify!"
"What! Has not Mohammed so good an appetite as Osman?"
"No, sir, Mohammed has more of a Christian's appetite; he is satisfied with what I put before him, he don't go prigging out of the tin like that there other Turk. Why, I watched Osman one day eating a chicken which I had kept back for your supper! A few days before, I had missed one out of the pot, and had taxed him with it; he then said, 'keupek,' dog, as if a dog would go and lift up the lid of the tin! I used to call Osman 'keupek' afterwards, and he did not seem to like it. The other Turks, when they want to give it a fellow, tell him that he is the grandson of a dog; but I called Osman the original animal—dirty hound that he was too—quite spoiled my coat, that he did!"
And my servant, lighting a short wooden pipe, the wonder of the Turks, smoked furiously—the rapidity of his puffs probably denoting an extreme dislike to his late fellow-servant.