Back of cabinet with equipment in place
Fig.31.—Back of cabinet with equipment in place
Stock Bill
Fig.32.—Back of cabinet with stove removed
Figure 31 shows the back of the cabinet, with the three-flame-burner stove-oven, the one-flame-burner stove, and other utensils in place. The folding table, previously described, rests on the top of the cabinet. Figure 32 shows the back of the cabinet with the stove and oven removed. The method of storing utensils and the construction of the cabinet are clearly shown.
Stock Bill
Fig.33.—Three-flame-burner oil-stove, with kettles and one-flame-burner oil-stove on shelf
Stock Bill
Fig.34.—Household Science equipment with drop-leaf table
Figure 33 shows the three-flame-burner oil-stove with the shelf underneath containing three kettles and the one-flame-burner oil-stove.
Another type of equipment is shown in Figure 34. Each end of the top of this cabinet drops down when the cupboard doors are closed, space being thus economized. The top of the table may be covered with oil-cloth or zinc carefully tacked down on the edges.
The directions for making this cabinet are as follows:
I Cutting and Squaring Stock—
Cut the stock only as needed, in the following order, and square up according to the directions previously given.
II Assembling—
Frame:
1. Check up the dimensions of the pieces squared up for the frame.
2. Lay out and cut the lap joints in the top side rails and frame posts, as shown in the drawing.
3. Nail the frame together.
4. Test the corners of the frame with a steel try-square and brace it by nailing, temporarily, several strips diagonally across the corners.
Bottom:
1. Cut seven pieces of flooring 32½" long for the bottom and plane off the groove of one piece.
2. Turn the frame upside down and nail this piece with the smooth edge projecting ⅞" over the front side of the frame. Nail the rest of the flooring so that each piece matches tightly.
Ends:
1. For the back, cut eleven pieces of ceiling 31¼" long.
2. Plane off the groove edge of one piece of ceiling and nail it on the back of the frame even with the end.
3. Nail the rest of the ceiling on the back. Be sure that each joint matches tightly.
Stock Bill
Fig. 35.—Frame of cabinet nailed together
Shelves:
1. Make four strips (¾" × ¾" × 16½") and nail two of them inside, across each end, 15" and 24" from the bottom. These strips hold the shelves.
2. From a 1" × 12" piece cut two pieces 32½" long; fit and nail them in for the upper shelf.
3. Make the bottom shelf of two pieces, one 10¼" wide and the other 8" wide. When these boards are nailed in place, the shelf is narrow enough to allow the doors, with pockets on, to close.
4. Make two strips; one 13-16" × 1" × 16½" and the other 13-16" × 1-¾" × 20½", and nail them to the top shelf for drawer guides.
Top:
1. Cut eight pieces of flooring 36" long for the top.
2. Plane off the groove of one piece and nail it on the top of the frame, so that the smooth edge and the ends project 1" over the front side and ends of the cabinet.
3. Nail the rest of the flooring on for the top, being sure that each joint matches tightly. The last piece must also project 1" over the back side.
Casing:
1. Nail the casing, which is 1-¾" wide, on the front of the cabinet.
Doors:
1. Make each door ¾" × 14⅜" × 22⅞" from five pieces of ceiling 22⅞" long, held together by cleats at the top and bottom.
2. Fit each door carefully, then hang them with butt hinges. Fasten a cupboard catch on each door.
Drop Door:
1. Make the drop door 13-16" × 14⅜" and hinge it with a pair of butt hinges. Put on the stopper chain and catch.
Swing Tops:
The swing tops are each made from six pieces of flooring 24" long cleated together.
1. Plane off the groove edge of one piece and match them all together.
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Fig.36.—Working details
2. Make the cleats ¾" × 2" × 15" and nail the top to them. (See the drawing for the position of the cleats.)
3. Rip off the tongue edge and plane it so that the top is exactly 18" wide.
4. Turn the cabinet upside down on the floor and fit the swing tops. Hang them with a pair of butt hinges opposite the ends of the cleats.
5. Make a T-brace with a nailed cross lap joint from two pieces, one being 13-16" × 2" × 14", the other 13-16" × 2" × 16½". The long edge of the T and the leg must be bevelled 13-16" on one side. Fit and hang a T-brace with a pair of butt hinges on each side of the swing tops.
6. Make two brace cleats and fasten them to the ends of the cabinet, so that the swing tops are held level and even with the top of the cabinet.
Putting Zinc on the Top:
1. Unscrew the swing tops from the cabinet to put the zinc on.
2. Place the piece of zinc, 27" × 39", on top, extending 1½" over the edges all around.
3. Hold the zinc firmly in place and make a square bend along the front edge with a hammer or mallet, bending the edge of the zinc up under the top.
4. Punch a straight row of holes 1" apart through the zinc and tack it on.
5. Bend the back edge, punch and tack in the same manner as the front edge, but be sure the zinc fits snugly on the top.
Stock Bill
Fig.37.—Working details
6. Bend the ends of the zinc the same as before, but be very careful to fold the corners neatly.
7. Put the zinc on the swing tops in the same manner.
8. Fasten the swing tops again to the top of the cabinet.
Drawer:
The drawer front, 13-16" × 5" × 14⅜", with lap ⅜" × ½" cut out on the ends.
1. Nail the sides, ½" × 5" × 19⅝", to the lap of the front and to the ends of the back.
2. Nail the bottom in between the sides ⅛" from the lower edge. This allows the drawer to slide on the edges of the sides.
3. Put the partitions in the drawer as called for by this plan.
The racks for covers and pie tins shown in the drawings are made from two pieces, 13-16" × 2" × 4", one piece 13-16" × 2" × 10½" for the bottom, and two pieces of lath 12" long for the sides. These racks may be placed on the doors as shown, or may be changed to suit the equipment.
III Finishing—
1. Set all the nails and putty the holes.
2. Sandpaper the cabinet carefully.
3. Paint or stain and wax the outside of the cabinet, to harmonize with the surroundings where it is to be used.
4. Paint the inside with two coats of white enamel.
Cabinet completed
Fig.38.—Cabinet completed
Before putting on the enamel, apply a coat of ordinary white-lead paint and allow it to dry thoroughly. If desired, the outside of the cabinet may be finished in white enamel, though this is somewhat more expensive than the paint or stain recommended above.
All the Household Science Cabinets shown have a two-fold purpose. In the first place, they furnish storage space for the utensils and working space for the pupils. In the second place, they offer a most interesting manual training project for a boys' club. The members can make any one of them, thus correlating their practical wood-work and the domestic science of the girls and, in this way, exhibiting the co-operative spirit of the home and the school.
3. In some cases it may be possible to use the school stove for cooking purposes. Some schools use natural gas for heating and, where this is the case, provision for cooking may readily be made. Other schools situated on a hydro-electric line, may, as has been done in one case, use electricity as a source of heat. At present, however, the majority of schools may find it best to use one of the many oil-stoves now on the market. One-, two-, or three-flame-burner stoves may be obtained for general use. The two-, or three-flame-burner stoves are recommended, as they are less likely to be overturned. The one-flame-burner stove, however, is often useful as an additional provision. A good grade of oil should be used, and the stove should be kept scrupulously clean, constant attention being paid to the condition of the wick. Any oil spilt on the stove when it is being filled should be carefully wiped off before lighting. If attention is paid to these details, the stove will burn without any perceptible odour.
4. The number of the utensils and the amount of equipment depend upon the community and the number ofpupils to be considered. By careful planning few utensils are needed. They should be as good as the people of the neighbourhood can afford and, in general, should be of the same character as those used in the homes of the district. All the table-cloths, towels, dish-cloths, etc., required should be hemmed by the pupils. Articles for storing supplies may be bought or donated. Glass canisters with close lids are best, but as substitutes, fruit jars, jelly glasses, or tin cans will serve the purpose. It is an easy matter to secure an empty lard-bucket or a syrup-can for flour or meal, empty coffee-cans for sugar or starch, etc., and baking-powder or cocoa-tins for spices. Each should be plainly labelled.
Several typical lists of equipment in Household Science are given here. These may be modified to suit particular circumstances. Considerable expense may be saved if the pupils bring their own individual equipment—soup-bowl, cup and saucer, plate, spoon, knife, fork, and paper napkins. This plan is not advised unless it is absolutely necessary, but, if followed, an effort should be made to have the articles as uniform as possible.
The following equipment is that contained in the cabinet illustrated on page 152 and is sufficient for giving organized instruction to six pupils. If a noon lunch is provided, additional individual equipment will be required.
EQUIPMENT FOR RURAL SCHOOL HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE CABINET—NO. I
1 Perfection blue-flame stove (two-flame)
1 Two-burner oven
1 Coal-oil can
1 Dish-pan
1 Tea-kettle
1 Large sauce-pan and cover
2 Medium sauce-pans and covers, 30c each
2 Small sauce-pans and covers, 25c each
2 Small sauce-pans and covers, 25c each
2 Pudding bake-dishes, 50c ea.
2 Muffin pans (12 rings, each 30c)
1 Soap-dish
4 Small mixing bowls, 16c ea.
2 Pitchers, 55c ea.
3 Casseroles, 20c, 25c, 30c
6 Measuring cups, 10c ea.
6 Custard cups, 90c doz.
6 White plates, $1.45 doz.
6 Supply jars, 90c doz.
2 Vegetable brushes, 5c ea.
1 Grater
2 Egg-beaters, 10c ea.
12 Forks
12 Teaspoons
6 Tablespoons, $2.85 doz.
6 Vegetable knives, 25c ea.
6 Case knives, $3.00 doz.
2 Strainers, 20c ea.
1 Spatula
1 Bread knife
1 Can-opener
1 French knife
2 Water pails, $1.15 ea.
6 Dish-towels, 25c ea.
3 Dish-cloths, 10c ea
3 Rinsing cloths, 10c ea.
1 yd. oil-cloth
5 yards cheesecloth
EQUIPMENT FOR RURAL SCHOOL HOUSEHOLD SCIENCE CABINET—NO. II
The equipment included in the Cabinet and Cupboard shown in Figure 27, page 154, is as follows:
For Six Pupils
1 Cupboard
3 Pie plates
1 Cabinet table
3 Measuring cups (tin)
1 Three-burner oil-stove
1 Measuring cup (glass)
1 Portable oven
1 Double boiler
1 Storage tin
3 Baking-dishes
2 Dish-pans
2 Cake tins
2 Draining pans
3 Toasters
2 Scrub basins
1 Tea-pot
2 Soap-dishes
1 Coffee-pot
1 Pail
1 Pitcher (2 quarts)
2 Pails
1 " (1 pint)
2 Dippers
5 Bowls
2 Tea-kettles
6 Custard cups
3 Kneading boards
1 Butter crock
3 Rolling-pins
1 Covered pail (1 pint)
1 Oil-can
2 Trays
1 Stove mitt
1 Grater
1 Dust-pan
1 Potato masher
1 Whisk
1 Can-opener
2 Scrub-brushes
1 French knife
3 Vegetable brushes
1 Bread "
3 Stew pans
3 Egg-beaters
2 Sauce-pans
1 Dover egg-beater
3 Frying-pans
3 Wooden spoons
3 Strainers
6 Paring knives
For Eight Pupils
1 Cupboard
1 Portable oven
1 Cabinet table
1 Storage tin
1 Collapsible table
2 Dish-pans
1 Three-burner oil-stove
2 Draining pans
1 One-burner oil-stove
4 Scrub basins
2 Soap-dishes
4 Baking-dishes
1 Pail
2 Cake tins
2 Pails
4 Toasters
2 Dippers
1 Tea-pot
3 Tea-kettles
1 Coffee-pot
4 Kneading boards
2 Pitchers (2 quarts)
4 Rolling-pins
1 Pitcher (1 quart)
1 Oil-can
6 Bowls
1 Stove mitt
6 Custard cups
1 Dust-pan
1 Butter crock
1 Whisk
1 Covered pail (1 pint)
4 Scrub brushes
2 Trays
4 Vegetable brushes
1 Grater
4 Stew-pans
1 Potato masher
2 Sauce-pans
1 Can-opener
4 Frying-pans
1 French knife
4 Strainers
1 Bread "
4 Pie plates
4 Egg-beaters
4 Measuring cups (tin)
1 Dover egg-beater
1 Measuring cup (glass)
4 Wooden spoons
1 Double boiler
6 Paring knives
For Twelve Pupils
1 Cupboard
2 Stove mitts
1 Cabinet table
1 Dust-pan
1 Collapsible table
1 Whisk
2 Three-burner oil-stoves
6 Scrub brushes
1 Portable oven
6 Vegetable brushes
1 storage tin
6 Stew pans
3 Dish-pans
3 Sauce-pans
3 Draining-pans
6 Frying-pans
6 Scrub basins
6 Strainers
3 Soap-dishes
6 Pie plates
1 Pail
6 Measuring cups (tin)
2 Pails
1 Measuring cup (glass)
2 Dippers
1 Double boiler
3 Tea-kettles
6 Baking-dishes
6 Kneading boards
3 Cake tins
6 Rolling-pins
6 Toasters
1 Oil-can
1 Tea-pot
1 Coffee-pot
1 Potato masher
2 Pitchers (2 qt.)
1 Can-opener
2 " (1 qt.)
1 French knife
8 Bowls
1 Bread "
6 Custard cups
6 Egg-beaters
1 Butter crock
3 Dover egg-beaters
1 Covered pail (1 pt.)
6 Wooden spoons
2 Trays
12 Paring knives
1 Grater
In the equipment for twelve pupils, three one-burner oil-stoves at $6.50 each might be used in place of the second large stove. In this case extra provision must be made for storing the stoves when not in use, as the cabinet shown does not provide space for more than one large stove. Care should be taken in using the one-burner stove to avoid upsetting it while it is in use. The equipment given above is generous, and reductions may be made if necessary. In any case it is not advisable that the whole equipment should be purchased at once; only sufficient to make a beginning should be secured, and further utensils may be added as the necessity for their use arises.
If a hot dish is served at the noon lunch, as is most desirable, the following will be needed in addition, in order to serve twenty-four pupils:
24 Knives
24 Forks
24 Teaspoons
12 Tablespoons
6 Salt and pepper shakers
24 Glasses
24 Plates
4 Plates (large)
24 Cups and saucers
24 Fruit and vegetable dishes
The hectograph is a device for making copies of written work. Teachers whose schools have limited black-board space will find it of great service. Recipes and other rules for work may be copied and distributed to the pupils, and thus kept in a permanent form. Many other uses in connection with the general work of the school will suggest themselves.
The following are the directions for making:
Soak 1½ ounces of white glue in three ounces of water until it is well softened. Cook in a double boiler until the whole mass is smooth. Remove from the fire and add six ounces of glycerine. Mix well, re-heat, skim, and pour into a shallow pan or on a slate. Prick the bubbles as soon as they show. Allow the mixture to stand for twenty-four hours, and it is then ready for use.
Write the material to be copied, in hectograph ink, on a sheet of the same size as that on which the copy is to be made. Write clearly and space carefully. Wipe the hectograph with a damp cloth. Lay a sheet of unglazed paper on the hectograph, rub it carefully, and take off at once. This removes any drops of water, but leaves the surface moist. Lay the written side of the sheet on the hectograph and rub it carefully over its whole surface with a soft cloth, so that every particle of the writing comes in contact with the surface of the hectograph. Leave it there for four or five minutes. Lift one corner and peel off carefully. Lay a plain sheet on the hectograph and rub as before. Take off as before. If the copy is not clear, leave the next sheet on a little longer. When sufficient copies have been made, wash the hectograph with a wet cloth before putting it away. Keep in a cool, dry place.